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I grew up in a RV shop. My dad always put 5 gallons of water in the black tank BEFORE we left on every trip. The first thing we did when we arrived at our destination was dump the tank. I was amazed that the water was dirty with no use on the road. He would dump the tank before we hit the road home and add 5 gallons again. Then dump at a rest stop just up the road. Have never had a problem with the tanks getting stuff built up in the tanks.
What are your thoughts on ice too? I’ve seen Rv maintenance folks who will add a bucket of ice just before departure and that clinking around while driving apparently helps scrub the inside of the black tank.
Best tip in this video is the last one. Having worked in bottling, you don’t realize how quickly sitting water turns ugly. Another well thought out video sir.
Ive worked as a brewer for 21 years and this tip about flushing is spot on. If people could see what the inside of their fresh tank looks like they wouldn’t believe it. Knowing what I do about tanks, I’d say even new rv fresh tanks start to contaminate in the first few uses if you aren’t keeping them dry when not using.
Yeah I've camped last 7 months straight in used rv. Have not used the water or bathroom water. Poop in bag. Pee in bottle. Use bathroom when there is one at campground . I had to dump prior persons crap 1st week and realized I don't want to deal with dumping my crap or or water
Okay, I'm not disagreeing with the point about using foaming cleaner for AC fins versus compressed air - but being a mechanic it's pretty easy to spot that there is no nozzle on the compressed air gun that was used for the comparison which would significantly impair its function. Plus, the compressed air should be applied to the rear of the fins if you're trying to blow contaminants off the front.
Theres a little back story about why I used the nozzle I did. Knowing the fins on the coils are very thin and bend incredibly easy, I started with an air chuck with the nozzle removed knowing that it wouldnt concentrate the air to a tiny area and potentially bend any of the fins. Also a mechanic and former auto body tech, I usually remove the tips from all my air nozzles as they are very restricting. Even with a wider opening, nothing moved off those fins, not even through the back, not even a little dust is visible, so my thinking is that even with a fine tip that might have blown more air in a smaller area, it still would have inadequately cleaned the fins. Seeing this and knowing that nobody is using air to sufficiently clean AC coils, I decided to not even use a fine tip. I watched about 25 videos (RV and home AC cleaning videos) to try to find someone using compressed air on AC coils. Couldnt find one. They all use a cleaner and water to rinse, as I do in our original AC coil cleaning video. Also, i agree that using compressed air from the back will blow the debris through the front, but with that line of thinking, nothing from the front is coming out of the back in the video either. Cobwebs aside, not even the dust on the front of the coil was moving through to the back. I think you and I are on the same page and Im not disagreeing with your thought process, but I dont think a different nozzle, while maybe being a little more effective, is going to clean even as close to a foaming cleaner does. Hope that clears up my line of thinking... thanks for watching and the comment.
Great video, thanks! I can't believe the number of people who leave their RV with the awning out, whether overnight or all day while they are gone. An expensive mistake! Thanks again Ross!
If you're storing your RV in a hot environment such as I have in Boulder City, Nevada, outside of Vegas, you have to flush the black water tank thoroughly and then leave it filled with water. If you don't, it will smell to high heaven, no matter how well you think you've flushed that tank. When you're using the RV the next time, dump that water and recharge with toilet chemical and a few gallons of water. No smell.
Use the camper every week since we got it on 7/4/24 and always dump the fresh. Never thought of draining the low points but that makes so much sense! Love the videos wife and I are straight binging your info and sending vids back and forth.
Excellent suggestions! I am so guilty of the wet bay knobs under pressure and I just sanitized my hot water tank with bleach this year! Now I know. Thanks for sharing these!
some folks still choose to do it, if someone from a chemistry field said it was ok to do, then I guess it would be fine... im just not taking the risk. ive seen what a diluted bleach cleaner did to my home bath tub faucet first hand... just going to avoid it. thanks for watching my friend.
I use a garden hose with light spray to clean evaporator and condenser. Put a towel in the hole into the camper, cover with aluminum foil. Cover the compressor with a bag. Let dry in sun for couple hours. Like the video mentioned, too much pressure bends the fins.
Thanks for another great video. I agree about not using compressed air for cleaning, 90 PSI is too much, believe it or not, 35 PSI is the recommended pressure for cleaning, and that is with a cleaning tip. You can get things in your eye with it if not wearing safety glasses.
We camp monthly and I always drain the water heater completely and open the low point drains to empty out the system. Takes 5 mins and worth keeping the system as fresh as possible, also keeps the anode rod from deteriorating while sitting.
Great reminder to drain the water between trips. This is also why RVTT checklists are so important -- as following it will help prevent some of these "don'ts" and remind you of the "do's". Whether for maintenance or for the camping process, we've found Ross's checklists to be invaluable -- and fully modifiable to meet your unique needs.
Newbys here with our new Grand Design Imagine! Outstanding advice all around greatly appreciated. The "orientation" the tech gave us didn't mention any of these points especially about the awning. Thank you!
Definitely gonna be looking at your other videos. I'm just about 90 days into full time living in my RV. I'm loving the choice I made but I'm finding there are lots of things I didn't think about before doing this.
Usually I'll drain my water heater by removing the anode rod first and use a water wand to flush-out any sediments that may have accumulated. Then if need be, open the low point drains. Opening the low point drain first has the potential of getting debris in your plumbing lines.
thats actually an interesting point and something I've looked into over the years of doing this... Ive even discussed this with some other veteran RV'ers. I think with the water pressure pushing everything down the plumbing and out the low points its pretty unlikely. I have not had this problem, I also dont have an anode rod so the debris in my tank is always minimal... nothing more than the size of a large piece of salt. in 8 years I have not had any issues with the plumbing, fittings or valves having anything stuck in them, and it is still important to be cleaning your water heater from the drain valve. I feel with regular cleanings nothing is ever going to be big enough to get caught in 3/4" lines, but something I plan to look into more. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend... Ill keep you posted.
Great video 😊 I had a air slide on a 85 Alfa Gold, it was great; however, I think it scared folks. It went out in about 10 seconds, better make sure it was clear 😂
Thanks again for another great RV video. You get right to the point and don't sugar coat it. You heed me a lot when I started with my travel trailer 4 years ago and I learned a lot from your guidance. My trailer is not as complicated as the ones you show but it's always interesting to watch. I use diluted bleach on mine and bypass my hot water tank. So far so good. Keep doing these videos and happy camping season. Cheers 😅
Vinegar, I use that stuff in my inground swimming pool, eats algae, I use it on my drive way with oil leaks, it removes the black that tires leave on drive way cement, electric coffee makers, washing machine, every water tap, shower heads. After soaking in the vinegar the places I used it now become like new again
#1 - moving valves with water turned on…. There are “recommendations” and there are things that are just commonly done…. #3 I did a minimal amount of research on bleach and rv water heater tanks and have since changed my mind - the dilution of bleach/water we’d be putting into a water heater tank in my conclusion won’t hurt anything #5 Love the Amazon van delivering next months RV gear to be tested ◡̈ #should do: flushing through the plumbing - yes, yes, yes 🙌
for #1, I would say that ive seen my fair share of people complaining that their fresh tank is filling while connected to city water. While that issue is sometimes from backflow through the water pump, Id bet money there are occasions its because they are blowing out the seals on the valve at the panel, and water is going both ways right there at the panel (filling fresh tank and city water lines). Just because its commonly done and wont damage the valve 100% of the time, doesnt mean its ok to do, and thats why I felt it was important to talk about.
you should always be disconnecting power when cleaning an AC unit. always. you can simply clean both sides of the coil, but if you do it regularly you wont see much need to clean the back side of the coil.
I don’t use fresh water. When I bought my trailer, they filled the tank. That’s 35 gallons at 8lbs a gallon!! I only have 800ccc , I’m not wasting it on water! Plus all that water bouncing/sloshing around could possibly cause the tank straps to fail ( other people with same model have had that happen).
I dont drive with more than a few gallons in the water tank in case we need to stop and use the bathroom, but I do fill up the tank at campgrounds in case the well pump loses power or something happens with the pedestal. thank you for watching and commenting!
I've cleaned a lot of AC coils with air and garden hose water. Can I point out one thing in the video? The way you are showing to do it is you are pushing the debris into the coil. The blower of the AC unit pulls the air and debris through the coil from the outside in. The way I do it is blow the air and the water from the garden hose from the back side of the coil out. Been doing a good job for years. Thanks. Just a thought.
Thank you for the comment and the respectful way you approached it. I do understand the theory behind what you’re saying, however I don’t agree because if it worked you would see dirt coming through the back of the coil while blowing through the front. Take the cobwebs out of the equation for a second, there’s still nothing even moving off the insides of the coil fins where there is no resistance, so air from the back is going to be just as ineffective. I liken it to the same principle of washing a car, dishes, windows, etc… physical pressure and rinsing is what gets them clean. Blowing off a car with air just won’t work. Bumping up the air pressure and using a fine tip nozzle might be more effective, but I’d bet good money nothing is going to be as effective as a designed cleaner and physical pressure.
Gotta love when people dispute a method even after seeing video proof. Maybe it’s for the sake of creating an argument, maybe because they don’t want to admit their method doesn’t work as well, who knows. All I know is this video CLEARLY shows using a cleaner and brush does a much better job than air. I’ve also watched Ross’s AC coil cleaning video, along with countless residential AC cleaning videos from industry professional’s; none of them use compressed air for a reason.
Sorry I made you feel like I was arguing. I just pointed out about the way the air was being used and how I've been doing it for years before foam. Again sorry, leaving the forum now. Thanks
no need to leave, Frank is a die hard fan of the channel and I'm guessing hes just supporting the video with his comment. Remember, my job here is just to show what works for me in order to help others. Air doesnt work for me, so I dont recommend it, but if it works for you, no need to change anything!
Awning tie outs are a requirement...stakes and ratchet straps run out to the ground. I dont like the modern scissor type awning frames. They are only good for indorr RV sales displays...they have no actual lateral strength in any wind.
@@GBuds_RVremodel I use those screw-in dog anchors for my awning tie downs. I weld the triangular tops closed so they wont get pulled open with wind gusts. These work so much better than straight stakes or rods.
Always enjoy your useful relevant content. Can you publish a video regarding the “cupping” issue with leveling jacks feet? Cupping prevents a good secure fit for SnapPads and the pads could fall off. Our class-a leveling jacks feet/pads are made of a thinner metal and tend to cup (bend upward) and create an illusion that the pads are “snapping” on correctly. I called SnapPad and they are aware of this situation and provided us with very useful information. I have reached out to our motorhome dealer and provided options. Waiting for a response.
the only thing I can say about this issue is that if I had a 5th wheel with this problem, i would remove the feet and take them to a machine shop to be duplicated out of a thicker material like hardened steel. I gave up a long time ago on dealing with the factory or dealerships to fix things I can fix or improve myself. yes it is an out of pocket expense, but that money is worth it to me than not having the rv for months at a time. their backlog is so bad these days. Sorry I dont have a better solution for you my friend. machine shops are one of the most underutilized businesses at our disposal.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS one of the options provided by SnapPad is to upgrade to the thicker steel pads for 9” and 12”; I am considering buying the thicker steel 12” feet and will replace them myself. These new thicker steel pads are available from Lippert and other manufacturers. SnapPad offers the 12” SnapPad. In addition, SnapPad is an awesome company and has been very helpful and provided the options to us. Their customer service is absolutely top notch in my opinion.
Additionally, before going with larger jack feet, make sure your RV has enough clearance for the larger circumference and make sure when the jacks are retracted the feet don’t hit or rub on anything.
Some RV's have manual awnings still. I dont know if they are any stronger though as the power unit doesnt necessarily mean its built differently, but I would have to do further research on that.
All those valves used to be made of metal(brass or stainless) today they have primarily plastic...unable to handle the street pressures that vary greatly from place to place. As for bleach, 1/4 cup to a full fress water tank is diluted enough...then after 12hrs, open all water valves and transfer the water to both grey and black water tanks...let that work for another 12 hrs before dumping and flushing with full tanks
As a career HVAC guy there should be no need to actually scrub the coils although it might not hurt it theres always the risk. Since the coils arent just a single row it best to clean from the opposite site of the debris. As long as you're careful you should be able to spray water through the coil to push the stuff out. Id recommend not using chemicals unless you have to because they ALL leave a residue regardless of what the cans might say. These residues will cause more stuff to build up faster. The evaporator coil side should be able to just be cleaned with a very light hair paint brush
ill post a video of my actual RV AC coil cleaning video at the end of the comment, but I would agree that water will do a great job if you are staying on the maintenance regularly. The brush however doesnt hurt anything, in fact, the brush actually does a great job straightening the fins, much easier and faster than the fin tools. Unlike house AC uits you dont have the luxury of using a steady stream of water on the coils on an RV unless you want to soak your interior. However, in this video I do use a spray bottle to help rinse the cleaner off before I wrap everything up. th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
It has less to do with acidity and more about the chemical composition. Bleach is actually a base, not an acid, yet is far more corrosive to metal. A quick google search will confirm bleach is caustic to metal. Distilled white vinegar is about 25% less acidic than regular white vinegar and is produced and sold for cleaning purposes.
you are correct... in this video I didnt want to get off into the weeds with tankless heaters... many dont have bypass valve set ups installed from the factory. Explaining that I think is better for a dedicated video. Thanks for commenting
If you wannt to use compressed air you have the wrong tool. There is a tool to blow out debris on automotive condensers. It has several small holes and willl clean better than brush with foam. I use it on motorhome also. It is about $39
Thanks David, Ill have to look into them. I still dont feel like compressed air is ever going to clean as well as a liquid with physical pressure behind it.
The upside to having a tow vehicle that's right at the 80/20 limit is that I have to manage my weight and I empty my RV of all water as I leave the campground.
I wouldn't worry too much about diluted bleach in your water heater. Reason being, I've seen some studies on metal degradation with bleach and it's not that significant when diluted. Also, faucets are often metal so wouldn't it destroy them as well? Your home washing machine sees a much higher concentration and often times the tubs are stainless, uncoated. I'd much rather know my water heater is disinfected. Also I asked the same question when attending RVTI and the tech teaching the class said the same thing, bleach won't cause significant harm to the heater tank when diluted properly.
i wont disagree with you that at some point of dilution it wont corrode metal for the time its sitting in the tank, but again as mentioned in the video, rv techs are not chemists, and I'm not really confident in trusting what anyone "says" until I see the actual science on it. thats what Im really looking for, if there is any scientific proof of this that you know of, please feel free to share Casey. Thank you.
My RV uses a happy jack type system. on both are slides. I have put them both partially out and in a million times without issue. Have you ever seen a system like that?
i have seen them but I dont have much knowledge about them... the slide mechanism that moves the slide though is not what seals the slide from the weather, so when you say you partially put them out with no issues, do you mean during the rain and water is not getting in?
maybe, but I just dont feel its ever going to clean nearly as well as physical pressure. Same principle of washing a car, dishes, home air conditioner coils, you use a cleaner that is polarized against dirt and solid pressure or even water pressure. not air. plus the brush helps straighten any bent fins, see here: th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
Vinegar does contain an acid. Acids are corrosive as well. The key with bleach, vinegar or hydrogen peroxide is dilution to an acceptable level and not leaving the solution in the system for too long.
That is correct Paul about vinegar being acidic, however that doesnt change the fact that bleach is corrosive to metal. Bleach is actually a base, not an acid, so acids and bases affect different compounds and materials differently. Plastics are usually nonreactive to acids, thats why they come in plastic bottles. Additionally, until someone can point me to science based information that shows the dilution rate used to santize rv plumbing is non-corrosive to metail, I choose to use white vinegar in my tank. hope that clears things up. If you know where I can find this info please share!
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I believe acetic acid will damage metals in high enough concentrations. Are you aware that some municipalities use chlorine to sanitize water with limited damage to metal fixtures. Also, some RV fresh water systems have brass fittings in them. Are you concerned about those? I stand by my statement that concentration of the corrosive chemical and the time it is contact with the metals is what needs to be considered.
Thanks Paul, I am aware that water treatment plants use bleach to sanitize drinking water. In this video, I show a screen shot of the EPA webpage that covers how to do this yourself. I totally agree with you that how long something sits will affect the corrosion rate, but my response was in regards your comment about acids. Just because something is labeled an acid doesnt mean it will corrode a specific material. Muriatic acid will remove rust on metal, glycolic acid is safe on aluminum. There are plenty of acids that are safe on metal, while bleach, a base, is corrosive to metal. So my response was not necessary a disagreement with your comment about exposure time, it was to point at that the term "acid" isnt necessarily a bad thing. What I would like to find that I cannot is scientific evidence of what dilution rate bleach is no longer corrosive, or wont be corrosive for the amount of time it sits in a metal tank. I've had 3 or 4 people already say "its fine," but when I ask where they've gotten the chemistry-based proof of this, they just wont respond. So all that said, without the actual chemical facts, I choose to not put bleach in metal tanks. I'm warning people that bleach is caustic to metal, that I choose not to use it, and they should do their own research before making their own decisions. Thats as inofrmative and fair as I can get.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I’m not saying that bleach is non-corrosive to metal. I am saying that both chlorine and acetic acid are corrosive to metals. Even distilled water is corrosive to metals. Just talk to employees at Los Alamos National Laboratory dealing with cooling loops in radioactive systems. Corrosion is monitored in those systems. My point is that many chemicals are corrosive to metals. There isn’t any concentration of either chlorine or acetic acid that is non-corrosive to metals. The rate of corrosion is affected by the concentration of the chemical and the temperature of the solution. There are metal fittings in some RV water systems. Those fittings can be damaged by chlorine (and vinegar). Chlorine (and vinegar) should not be left in any part of RV water systems indefinitely. My water distiller warns of using undiluted vinegar or leaving the diluted solution in the stainless steel tank for a long time. Vinegar is corrosive to corrosion resistant stainless steel. High concentrations of either should be avoided in RV water systems. Low concentration of chlorine in RV water systems seem to be acceptable. Thus, there isn’t a warning about filling water tanks from some city water systems. Additionally, water heaters should be well rinsed before operated to avoid an increase in chemical reactivity. Vinegar is recommended for hot water heaters to both sanitize the tank, as well as dissolve mineral deposites that build up in the tank. A warning should be given concerning those who use ethanol as a disinfecting agent. There are people who have used ethanol. Many plastics are hygroscopic and exposure to alcohol can quickly remove enough water to cause cracking, damaging the plastic. Rubber can also become brittle by exposure to alchhol. Additionally, a high concentration of ethanol is required to sanitize. 70 percent (140 proof). I attempted to provide clarity and I failed. For that, I apologize. I find your dismissal of my presented information distressing.
Great info and thanks for spending the time writing that. Again, nobody is disagreeing about things being corrosive to different materials over time. I agree, so Im not sure where you are getting that I dismissed your information. The point I wanted to make in my first reply was that the definition "acid" or "acidic" doesnt necessarily mean it is corrosive. There are "bases" that are more corrosive to certain materials than acids, bleach being one. Thats all I wanted to point out. Again, thanks for the comments, I appreciate the time you take to write them and add information to the videos.
You mentioned in one of your videos you had a maintenance list and another list for set up and tear down. Where can I find that list if you still have it. Appreciate the details in your videos and all the supporting links.
I see quite a few issues where peoples water tanks fill while on city water. there are other reasons this happens, but Id bet when this valve fails on this type of panel it will allow water both directions.
Mike, flushing is one thing, but sanitizing the water system requires you to let the solution sit in the tanks for 8 hours or more. I guess what I'm looking for and would like to see is some chemistry-backed proof that the dilution rate used in RV sanitizing is non-corrosive to a metal tank it has been sitting in for 8+ hours. Hope that helps.
The rate at which you dilute bleach to sanitize plumbing lines vs purifying drinking water are 2 entirely different animals. The 2 ounces per 15 gallons used to sanitize lines is not safe to drink, and not the same process water treatment plants use. I’m with Ross, I’m just keeping bleach out of water heater.
I’m wondering if vacuuming the AC coils would be another option, depending on the size, power, shape, and accessibility of the vacuum. I realize hauling some up there would be ludicrous. Maybe any soapy spray (dawn power wash??) combined with that brush thingy would do the trick. Along with rinsing with the hose??? Would that be OK?
i use a shop vac to clean the loose debris in and around the coils, but after using the foaming cleaner and maybe some water to rinse, there isnt much of a need to do anything else. Here is our coil cleaning video: th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
i wouldnt ever leave the slide out partially, especially when not in use (if that means you are away from the rv)... the bulbs seals are not activated unless its fully opened or closed. May I ask your reasoning for doing this?
I am mixed on your last tip. wouldn't condensation build up faster in a empty tank until it is completely dry inside? For that reason would it be better to fill the tank while the RV sits for a few weeks? Treated water already has a minimum amount of bleach in it, does it not? What are your thoughts?
good question, my thoughts are this: condensation will build up in a tank regardless of whats in it due to temperature changes. with no water in the tank, you may get some condensation too, but condensation is fraction of the volume I'm talking about in this video: I'm talking about gallons and gallons of water, so take condensation out of the equation for a second... the point Im trying to make is that you have a lot of water sitting in a dark tank with an oxygen supply for weeks at a time. remember, fresh water tanks are not air tight, there is an open overflow valve that provides oxygen to the tank, as well as the gravity fill (if you have one) in which most caps dont seal air tight. Standing water in a dark tank with an oxygen supply is going to produce a much nastier environment than a little condensation. Also, while you are correct about bleach in treated water, that may not always be the case... remember you are getting water from a lot of different water sources as you travel to different locations in an RV... I wouldnt assume they are all treated equally and/or properly. dont forget you also have campgrounds on well water. so, condesation aside, its the gallons and gallons of sitting water that is the reason I just empty the fresh tank and water heater between trips. I get a comment at least once a week about people having rotten egg smells from their fresh tank and/or water heater and in 8 years I never had this problem because I keep those tanks dry unless they are being used and the water is being circulated and refreshed. Then, flushing some water out when arriving at a new site should help remove any condensation that did form. Hope that makes sense, thanks for the question, and more importantly how you respectually approached it.
We're new to RVing, I wonder about if there is a tolerance for exact level with respect to deploying the slide. I can consistently get to less than 1 degree off level, but have yet to hit a perfect bubble.
my guess is that your comment stems from when you deploy your slide it throws it off level from you when parked and leveled? this is normal. i think there probably is more of a tolerance than manufacturers like to admit... some folks know, for example only, the slide throws them off 1 degree low on the slide side once extended, so they will level 1 degree low on the non-slide side while parking... then the RV is level when the slide is open. Since every camper is different and there are diffferent slide mechanisms, I would never condone doing this, but the realist in me says if you are only 1 degree off, you are probably fine. I cant remember the last time I checked level with the slide out, but I know that before I open the slide, my level is spot on, and once the slide is open, everything inside feels good. Hope that makes sense.
i doubt it, however, there should be no reason to get any of it on the roof... the coils dont overlap past the drip pan, and its easy to spray. Rubber roofs like EPDM and TPO are pretty resistant to a lot of elements. It is not something I would even worry about, but again unless you sneeze you shouldnt have to worry about any substantial amount of cleaner on the roof that you cant just wipe off.
i havent taken mine apart to see what could potentially happen, but ive seen a video from a while back (I think it was from Love Your Rv's channel if I remember correctly) that goes over the issue. There is a spring loaded check valve in the fixture. From what I remember about the fix the spring becomes dislodged fromt he back pressure while switching the valve. Thats the best I can remember the actual issue, but i know its a real issue, and its in the manual for a reason. I also dont know if its design is shared on all RV's ( I assume its not), but if anything, the important part if you are unsure is to check your manual on your specific RV.
Water tanks are black for one reason, bacteria can’t grow without light. What do people with cisterns do with thousands of gallons of water? I don’t feel there is a need when no light is available.
RV fresh water tanks are usually white, John. Additionally, depending on the bacteria, it only needs light to survive if it is photosynthetic bacteria. Oxygen is present in fresh water rv tanks as well. There is an open overflow valve, and many RV's have a gravity fill that usually does not seal air tight at the cap.
the coil in this demostration is the evaporator coil, which is located in front of a hole to the living space to absorb the heat and moisture from the living space. the side that is shown is the dirty side because thats the side pulling from the living space, not the rear of the coil, which is clean.
the whole process for a Schwintek sync is on the screen during the video... just hit pause, take a screen shot and send it to your phone (sorry im not at my computer right now)... it might also be in your owners manual. 😊
We do this regularly in AZ, a teaspoon to keep 20-30 gallons fresh. Bleach also will burn off over time. I don't want things growing in my fresh water system.
i get what you're saying now, ive been using these for a few decades now, never had one fly up. if there are windy conditions i will usually add tie downs from the top frame to the ground in addition to the stakes. ill use spiral stakes on the tie downs and never had an issue. sorry to hear about your brothers issue.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Okay! So we have a 24’ Forest River Campsite Reserve and it has drop down stabilizer jacks. Our drive way where it’s parked slopes up so the back jacks are farther from the ground and the front ones are really close to the ground when not even lowered. The reference photo on the RV itself shows the best positions to how far the jacks should be lowered. If we lower those jacks that are closer to the ground they barely lower enough before already touching the ground, but we notice if they’re not lowered, inside there is some bouncing. So what do we do? Do we lower them until they’re in a good position which raises the RV a hefty amount or do we just leave them up?
you can disregard those pictures in the manual. if you are on a steep slope, you're on a steep slope. stabilizer jacks are just that, jacks that help stabilize. if you're on a slope and 1 set needs to go down much further than the other set, so be it. it wont hurt anything. now, how effective they are based on how far they are down is definitely the real question... as they extend further, their profile becomes thinner and they become less stable. you can put blocks like these under them so they dont have to extend all the way. amzn.to/3xiWlHp i have done that quite a few times. but you are fine using them on slopes. i hope that answers your question, if not, please respond.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Yes it kind of answers my question. I would’ve liked to send you a reference photo but if you’re saying it’s okay to disregard those guide photos than we will do that!
I wish I had watched this a few days ago. Common sense should have told me, but it did not. I was on a loading dock to pick up a new mattress and had to open my slide in order to get it in. Dock was at least 6% but probably greater of a hill. I broke something, and it won't slide in now. I had to drive home that way. No rv repair answered their phones or returned my calls. I can't believe how stupid I was. I should have known better😢
im not understanding what you're saying: "enough of weak rv plumbing." ??? If youre stating pex is not weak, I wont disagree with you... the problem is the plastic fittings they use instead of metal fittings or copper sharkbites commonly used in houses, and thats where you will likely have a failure. something else to consider, if you are in fact comparing houses to RV's, is that your house doesnt rattle down the pot hole ridden highways at 65 mph. this is especially harder on plastic fittings than it is metal, especially when it isnt secured as tightly as it is in a house. Sometimes this pex is simply zip tied, of which I exposed in this video: th-cam.com/video/SFn2kkpb8i0/w-d-xo.html All of that movement on top of the bare minimum standard fittings they use creates an atmosphere MUCH different than in a house.
Hey umm… The air compressor isn’t doing anything because you didn’t attach the black regulator to the front of that air gun. It reduces the air nozzle to the size of a Bee-bee and therefore like an airless increases the air pressure. That’s how I clean all my filters. However I just realized maybe you are wanting to dissuade people from doing it with air to sell the product you recommended.
First, i have no affiliation with with the coil cleaner company. I use the product, therefore I recommend it. If I was affiliated with them, it would need to be disclosed in the video per the FCC. Second, like you, I also clean air filters with compressed air, because liquids and scrubbing can damage filters.... but coils are not filters... they are a metal.... Nothing beats liquid and pressure to clean a solid surface. think of it this way: do you wash your car with compressed air? hope that helps.
Never drive with your slides extended...obvious, common sense right? I went to an RV Show last year and was horrified to watch the dealer moving a Class A in the parking lot with extended slides. I will never buy a coach from them!
Per at least 3 manufacturers that know of, Grand Design being one, the use of supports is not recommended and will void the warranty. With a support under the slide, as the rv naturally moves from walking, tires settling, etc… the slide doesn’t move. That puts stress on the gib and the tracks.
As an HVAC tech, I cringed when you blew the coil with compressed air. Never blow in that direction, you’re blowing the debris INTO the coil like that. Blow it from the backside so that you’re blowing the debris OUT OF the coil.
it didnt make a difference either way, the compressed air did nothing to move anything off the coils, either way you blow it, which is less siginificant on a flat open coil you find on an RV then it is on a square enclosed design you see in home. even with a smaller tip, youre never getting it as clean as you are with a liquid and pressure. thats really the point i wanted to make. the same way you dont clean home AC coils with compressed air. unfortunately we dont have the luxury of using a water hose on an RV. how you clean a home ac coil is different than the RV coil, but air is not used in either application. home: th-cam.com/video/PGC2gOkOSTk/w-d-xo.html rv: th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
Do the police take away your RV card if you drive with the slides open? Driver's license stamp prohibits the driver from ever driving an RV again. Told to go home and stay home in the future? 🤠🤠🤠
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS, good response and great video. But the true answer is yes, the police could stop you and issue you a ticket. A vehicle can only be 102 inches wide, and most travel trailers are close to that number with the slides in. driving with the slide out would, more than likely, put the RV over the max width limit of 102 inches. which could result in a traffic ticket. One more note, enjoyed your video and would like to add that not all RV's must be level to extend slide outs. I know your target audience is the travel trailer community, but some motorhome people watch your videos also, you have great advice. The Entegra luxury motorhomes require the RV to be at ride height when extending slide out rooms. Once again, great video.
10:01 You are wrong about bleach. It is an alkali, not an acid, and wouldn't be corrosive, especially in the highly diluted form used to sanitize the water system. Actually vinegar is an acid.
At no point in this video did I ever say bleach was an acid, what are you talking about? Additionally, sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is absolutely corrosive to metal, its a scientific fact. Sorry, I'm not going to have a debate about this. Now, when it becomes non-corrosive to metal is the question I pose in the video. You are saying it wouldnt be corrosive in the diluted form used to sanitize a water system, so 2 questions... what is the dilution rate you are talking about because you dont mention it in your response? Second, can you point me to the reputable website or science-based article that proves or confirms this or where you got this information?
I'm not sure where you are getting your information, but you absolutely can travel with water in the tanks. It defeats the purpose for those who travel full time or boondock. Most campgrounds without water hook ups at the site have a fill station to fill up the fresh tank at the entrance so you can drive to your site with a full tank. I think it was Jayco who was forced to honor a warranty on a tank that fell out while traveling with water in it because nowhere in their discosures was not traveling with water in the tank ever mentioned. it is absolutely acceptable to travel with water in the tank. If it werent there would be no such thing as boondocking or campgrounds with no on site water connection. in fact, thats the point of having the tank, otherwise they would not have tanks and you would have to just connect to the pressurized city water connection, which most state parks dont even have.
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS guess you haven't read the manual, as they say not to travel with water in tanks. GD has had a few fall out as well as other brands and Jayco was the only one that ever paid and that was one claim then manual changed. Tanks are only held in by ½" lip on two sides. Add 40 pounds to tank, tank sags and that lup becomes about ¼". Yes its fine through the campground but that's not traveling down the road. But hey what would manufacturer or their licensed mechanic know right
I've ready many manuals over the years, GD, Alliance, Brinkley, some Keystones... im looking at the Grand Design transcend 2023 manual now, it does not mention anywhere to not travel with water. If fact, they say that it will increase your GVWR, so reducing the amount of water in the tank will increase the amount of weight you can carry. I dont think they would print this if they didnt want you to travel with water in the tank, instead they say it will affect your GVWR if you do and to be aware of this. page 53 on the transcend 2023 manual. Nowhere in the manual does it specifically imply that you should not drive with water in the fresh water tank, and additionally in the warranty exclusions it does not mention this at all. If you know of somewhere it says this, please provide a link as I would be happy to investigate this with different manufacturers. Thanks.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS yes anything you add to a trailer will increase gvwr and is legally required to be stated in manual. I'm currently driving and don't have the manuals in front of me but have seen it in both manuals and bulletins from almost every manufacturer. There are some that are designed to travel full but not many. Ones built on proper HD frames like luxe are designed to travel with all tanke full but they also have axle capacity to support camper fully loaded. GD momentum are starting to come with "supported" tanke but it's just a 2"X1/8" flat bar screwed to frame and not really enough to support tank weight loaded but helps
im not arguing with you by any means, im here to find answers, same as you. I would never travel with a full tank... 5 gallons would be the most, but still not seeing anything in writing, which is the end all/be all with warranties. the 2023 manual I looked at was released after all the additional bulletins, so it should directly say this in there somewhere. I think Ill reach out to a few manufacturers and see what they say. stay in touch and keep me posted on anything you find in writing. i think a very clear direction on different manufacturers and models within those manufacturers would be a useful topic to cover.
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Chapters:
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I grew up in a RV shop. My dad always put 5 gallons of water in the black tank BEFORE we left on every trip. The first thing we did when we arrived at our destination was dump the tank. I was amazed that the water was dirty with no use on the road.
He would dump the tank before we hit the road home and add 5 gallons again. Then dump at a rest stop just up the road. Have never had a problem with the tanks getting stuff built up in the tanks.
thats actually a great idea, thanks for sharing Keith!
What are your thoughts on ice too? I’ve seen Rv maintenance folks who will add a bucket of ice just before departure and that clinking around while driving apparently helps scrub the inside of the black tank.
not super effective: th-cam.com/video/iH6acEmqvcw/w-d-xo.html
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS awesome! Love the myth busters style video. Thanks for saving me $7 in ice on my next trip 😉
Best tip in this video is the last one. Having worked in bottling, you don’t realize how quickly sitting water turns ugly. Another well thought out video sir.
Ive worked as a brewer for 21 years and this tip about flushing is spot on. If people could see what the inside of their fresh tank looks like they wouldn’t believe it. Knowing what I do about tanks, I’d say even new rv fresh tanks start to contaminate in the first few uses if you aren’t keeping them dry when not using.
Thanks for the info Ryan!
Yeah I've camped last 7 months straight in used rv. Have not used the water or bathroom water. Poop in bag. Pee in bottle. Use bathroom when there is one at campground . I had to dump prior persons crap 1st week and realized I don't want to deal with dumping my crap or or water
Okay, I'm not disagreeing with the point about using foaming cleaner for AC fins versus compressed air - but being a mechanic it's pretty easy to spot that there is no nozzle on the compressed air gun that was used for the comparison which would significantly impair its function. Plus, the compressed air should be applied to the rear of the fins if you're trying to blow contaminants off the front.
Theres a little back story about why I used the nozzle I did. Knowing the fins on the coils are very thin and bend incredibly easy, I started with an air chuck with the nozzle removed knowing that it wouldnt concentrate the air to a tiny area and potentially bend any of the fins. Also a mechanic and former auto body tech, I usually remove the tips from all my air nozzles as they are very restricting. Even with a wider opening, nothing moved off those fins, not even through the back, not even a little dust is visible, so my thinking is that even with a fine tip that might have blown more air in a smaller area, it still would have inadequately cleaned the fins. Seeing this and knowing that nobody is using air to sufficiently clean AC coils, I decided to not even use a fine tip. I watched about 25 videos (RV and home AC cleaning videos) to try to find someone using compressed air on AC coils. Couldnt find one. They all use a cleaner and water to rinse, as I do in our original AC coil cleaning video. Also, i agree that using compressed air from the back will blow the debris through the front, but with that line of thinking, nothing from the front is coming out of the back in the video either. Cobwebs aside, not even the dust on the front of the coil was moving through to the back. I think you and I are on the same page and Im not disagreeing with your thought process, but I dont think a different nozzle, while maybe being a little more effective, is going to clean even as close to a foaming cleaner does. Hope that clears up my line of thinking... thanks for watching and the comment.
My husband learned the hard way about the water valve. Wish this video was out last year!
Sorry to hear that
Great video, thanks! I can't believe the number of people who leave their RV with the awning out, whether overnight or all day while they are gone. An expensive mistake! Thanks again Ross!
I used to be one of those people, and I'm also very lucky. I no longer leave it out. I've started to see them get destroyed.
If you're storing your RV in a hot environment such as I have in Boulder City, Nevada, outside of Vegas, you have to flush the black water tank thoroughly and then leave it filled with water. If you don't, it will smell to high heaven, no matter how well you think you've flushed that tank. When you're using the RV the next time, dump that water and recharge with toilet chemical and a few gallons of water. No smell.
thanks for sharing Mel.
@@melrobinson6919 Thanks for sharing this important reminder. We are storing our RV 1st time similar location this fall.
Use the camper every week since we got it on 7/4/24 and always dump the fresh. Never thought of draining the low points but that makes so much sense! Love the videos wife and I are straight binging your info and sending vids back and forth.
haha, thanks Chad, glad to help my friend!
Excellent suggestions! I am so guilty of the wet bay knobs under pressure and I just sanitized my hot water tank with bleach this year! Now I know. Thanks for sharing these!
some folks still choose to do it, if someone from a chemistry field said it was ok to do, then I guess it would be fine... im just not taking the risk. ive seen what a diluted bleach cleaner did to my home bath tub faucet first hand... just going to avoid it. thanks for watching my friend.
I use a garden hose with light spray to clean evaporator and condenser. Put a towel in the hole into the camper, cover with aluminum foil. Cover the compressor with a bag. Let dry in sun for couple hours. Like the video mentioned, too much pressure bends the fins.
i know a water hose is used in residential applications, never thought about using it on the rv because of the hole. thanks for sharing!
Thanks for another great video. I agree about not using compressed air for cleaning, 90 PSI is too much, believe it or not, 35 PSI is the recommended pressure for cleaning, and that is with a cleaning tip. You can get things in your eye with it if not wearing safety glasses.
thanks again Scott!
I use awning tie-downs every time without fail!
thank you for watching and commenting!
We use awning tie downs with heavy duty spikes and springs to keep it in place. Never had any issues with it.
👍
You don’t until you do.
We camp monthly and I always drain the water heater completely and open the low point drains to empty out the system. Takes 5 mins and worth keeping the system as fresh as possible, also keeps the anode rod from deteriorating while sitting.
Me too, I’m right with you on always draining the water.
Do you do the same thing for your household water heater when you return home from camping? Just asking.
Compressed air packs the dirt into the coil, use chemical and water hose, You are correct
👍
Wow! To a new RV owner, like me, this video is worth its weight in gold! Thank you!
you bet!
Great reminder to drain the water between trips. This is also why RVTT checklists are so important -- as following it will help prevent some of these "don'ts" and remind you of the "do's". Whether for maintenance or for the camping process, we've found Ross's checklists to be invaluable -- and fully modifiable to meet your unique needs.
Care to remind us of what RVTT is? Not familiar with that. Thanks much.
Y'all Be Safe!
thanks buddy
@@raymondschneider5217I think it’s short for RV travel trailer?
@@raymondschneider5217 RVTT was my acronym reference to this fantastic channel: RV Tips & Travels! 😀
Love all of your content! New to rving and feel like I have gone through a Masters degree. Keep up the great work! 🚙🎉
thank you
Newbys here with our new Grand Design Imagine! Outstanding advice all around greatly appreciated. The "orientation" the tech gave us didn't mention any of these points especially about the awning. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Definitely gonna be looking at your other videos. I'm just about 90 days into full time living in my RV. I'm loving the choice I made but I'm finding there are lots of things I didn't think about before doing this.
Welcome aboard!
Another great video Ross, please keep them coming!
Thanks, will do!
Usually I'll drain my water heater by removing the anode rod first and use a water wand to flush-out any sediments that may have accumulated. Then if need be, open the low point drains. Opening the low point drain first has the potential of getting debris in your plumbing lines.
thats actually an interesting point and something I've looked into over the years of doing this... Ive even discussed this with some other veteran RV'ers. I think with the water pressure pushing everything down the plumbing and out the low points its pretty unlikely. I have not had this problem, I also dont have an anode rod so the debris in my tank is always minimal... nothing more than the size of a large piece of salt. in 8 years I have not had any issues with the plumbing, fittings or valves having anything stuck in them, and it is still important to be cleaning your water heater from the drain valve. I feel with regular cleanings nothing is ever going to be big enough to get caught in 3/4" lines, but something I plan to look into more. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend... Ill keep you posted.
My favourite part of this video was the sneak peak at the editing studio. Sweet set up! Let's see more of the BTS on making these awesome videos
More to come!
First tip is great, never knew this and guilty of not reading my manual. We have the same panel as yours.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video 😊 I had a air slide on a 85 Alfa Gold, it was great; however, I think it scared folks. It went out in about 10 seconds, better make sure it was clear 😂
Ive never seen an air slide in person... ill have to look it up... sounds interesting!
Wow, RVing 12 years and always learning.
hope our videos are helping!
Great tips
I use air 1st all the time were I live the coils get full of sand the spray does nothing 😮
have you tried vacuuming with a shop vac? that will usually do the same thing without blowing sand everywhere around the rest of the AC unit.
Thanks again for another great RV video. You get right to the point and don't sugar coat it. You heed me a lot when I started with my travel trailer 4 years ago and I learned a lot from your guidance. My trailer is not as complicated as the ones you show but it's always interesting to watch. I use diluted bleach on mine and bypass my hot water tank. So far so good. Keep doing these videos and happy camping season. Cheers 😅
glad to help and glad you're here!
Vinegar, I use that stuff in my inground swimming pool, eats algae, I use it on my drive way with oil leaks, it removes the black that tires leave on drive way cement, electric coffee makers, washing machine, every water tap, shower heads. After soaking in the vinegar the places I used it now become like new again
I would agree, and something I think I might start using more depending on how effective it is when diluted. I'll have to do some research!
#1 - moving valves with water turned on…. There are “recommendations” and there are things that are just commonly done….
#3 I did a minimal amount of research on bleach and rv water heater tanks and have since changed my mind - the dilution of bleach/water we’d be putting into a water heater tank in my conclusion won’t hurt anything
#5 Love the Amazon van delivering next months RV gear to be tested ◡̈
#should do: flushing through the plumbing - yes, yes, yes 🙌
for #1, I would say that ive seen my fair share of people complaining that their fresh tank is filling while connected to city water. While that issue is sometimes from backflow through the water pump, Id bet money there are occasions its because they are blowing out the seals on the valve at the panel, and water is going both ways right there at the panel (filling fresh tank and city water lines). Just because its commonly done and wont damage the valve 100% of the time, doesnt mean its ok to do, and thats why I felt it was important to talk about.
Great video Ross! And,,, we love our SnapPads. 👍
thank you, safe travels my friend!
Don't forget to clean hoses, I've literally had salad growing in mine in a summer in fla. Where our RV was being used as a horse show office.
ABSOLUTELY!
When using foam cleaner on coil, run fan to draw cleaner through the coil. Otherwise you are only cleaning the surface.
you should always be disconnecting power when cleaning an AC unit. always. you can simply clean both sides of the coil, but if you do it regularly you wont see much need to clean the back side of the coil.
Ross you are a constant go too for my RV. Keep up the great work!
thank you sir, as long as people are watching, I will be filming.
FOR CLEANING YOUR A/C COIL. TRY AN AIR COMB. ITS DESIGNED TO CLEAN CONDENSERS AND RADIATORS. ON YOUR PICKUP HOME A/C CAR ATVS. AIR COMB
👍
🤣My favorite part of this video is the head shake at the 5:58 mark!!! Ross, you're the best! You just can't fix stupid! 🤣
im glad you enjoyed my attempt at adding a little humor to the video.
I don’t use fresh water. When I bought my trailer, they filled the tank. That’s 35 gallons at 8lbs a gallon!! I only have 800ccc , I’m not wasting it on water! Plus all that water bouncing/sloshing around could possibly cause the tank straps to fail ( other people with same model have had that happen).
I dont drive with more than a few gallons in the water tank in case we need to stop and use the bathroom, but I do fill up the tank at campgrounds in case the well pump loses power or something happens with the pedestal. thank you for watching and commenting!
I've cleaned a lot of AC coils with air and garden hose water. Can I point out one thing in the video? The way you are showing to do it is you are pushing the debris into the coil. The blower of the AC unit pulls the air and debris through the coil from the outside in. The way I do it is blow the air and the water from the garden hose from the back side of the coil out. Been doing a good job for years. Thanks. Just a thought.
Thank you for the comment and the respectful way you approached it. I do understand the theory behind what you’re saying, however I don’t agree because if it worked you would see dirt coming through the back of the coil while blowing through the front. Take the cobwebs out of the equation for a second, there’s still nothing even moving off the insides of the coil fins where there is no resistance, so air from the back is going to be just as ineffective. I liken it to the same principle of washing a car, dishes, windows, etc… physical pressure and rinsing is what gets them clean. Blowing off a car with air just won’t work. Bumping up the air pressure and using a fine tip nozzle might be more effective, but I’d bet good money nothing is going to be as effective as a designed cleaner and physical pressure.
Gotta love when people dispute a method even after seeing video proof. Maybe it’s for the sake of creating an argument, maybe because they don’t want to admit their method doesn’t work as well, who knows. All I know is this video CLEARLY shows using a cleaner and brush does a much better job than air. I’ve also watched Ross’s AC coil cleaning video, along with countless residential AC cleaning videos from industry professional’s; none of them use compressed air for a reason.
Sorry I made you feel like I was arguing. I just pointed out about the way the air was being used and how I've been doing it for years before foam. Again sorry, leaving the forum now. Thanks
no need to leave, Frank is a die hard fan of the channel and I'm guessing hes just supporting the video with his comment. Remember, my job here is just to show what works for me in order to help others. Air doesnt work for me, so I dont recommend it, but if it works for you, no need to change anything!
Awning tie outs are a requirement...stakes and ratchet straps run out to the ground.
I dont like the modern scissor type awning frames. They are only good for indorr RV sales displays...they have no actual lateral strength in any wind.
thanks for watching
@@GBuds_RVremodel I use those screw-in dog anchors for my awning tie downs. I weld the triangular tops closed so they wont get pulled open with wind gusts. These work so much better than straight stakes or rods.
Always enjoy your useful relevant content. Can you publish a video regarding the “cupping” issue with leveling jacks feet? Cupping prevents a good secure fit for SnapPads and the pads could fall off. Our class-a leveling jacks feet/pads are made of a thinner metal and tend to cup (bend upward) and create an illusion that the pads are “snapping” on correctly. I called SnapPad and they are aware of this situation and provided us with very useful information. I have reached out to our motorhome dealer and provided options. Waiting for a response.
the only thing I can say about this issue is that if I had a 5th wheel with this problem, i would remove the feet and take them to a machine shop to be duplicated out of a thicker material like hardened steel. I gave up a long time ago on dealing with the factory or dealerships to fix things I can fix or improve myself. yes it is an out of pocket expense, but that money is worth it to me than not having the rv for months at a time. their backlog is so bad these days. Sorry I dont have a better solution for you my friend. machine shops are one of the most underutilized businesses at our disposal.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS one of the options provided by SnapPad is to upgrade to the thicker steel pads for 9” and 12”; I am considering buying the thicker steel 12” feet and will replace them myself. These new thicker steel pads are available from Lippert and other manufacturers. SnapPad offers the 12” SnapPad. In addition, SnapPad is an awesome company and has been very helpful and provided the options to us. Their customer service is absolutely top notch in my opinion.
Additionally, before going with larger jack feet, make sure your RV has enough clearance for the larger circumference and make sure when the jacks are retracted the feet don’t hit or rub on anything.
So do they still make a manual deployed awning? With the braces that would take a beating? I would replace this powered awning in a heart beat!
Some RV's have manual awnings still. I dont know if they are any stronger though as the power unit doesnt necessarily mean its built differently, but I would have to do further research on that.
All those valves used to be made of metal(brass or stainless) today they have primarily plastic...unable to handle the street pressures that vary greatly from place to place.
As for bleach, 1/4 cup to a full fress water tank is diluted enough...then after 12hrs, open all water valves and transfer the water to both grey and black water tanks...let that work for another 12 hrs before dumping and flushing with full tanks
May I ask where you are got info on the bleach dilution rate you mentioned being ok to expose to metal?
As a career HVAC guy there should be no need to actually scrub the coils although it might not hurt it theres always the risk. Since the coils arent just a single row it best to clean from the opposite site of the debris. As long as you're careful you should be able to spray water through the coil to push the stuff out. Id recommend not using chemicals unless you have to because they ALL leave a residue regardless of what the cans might say. These residues will cause more stuff to build up faster. The evaporator coil side should be able to just be cleaned with a very light hair paint brush
ill post a video of my actual RV AC coil cleaning video at the end of the comment, but I would agree that water will do a great job if you are staying on the maintenance regularly. The brush however doesnt hurt anything, in fact, the brush actually does a great job straightening the fins, much easier and faster than the fin tools. Unlike house AC uits you dont have the luxury of using a steady stream of water on the coils on an RV unless you want to soak your interior. However, in this video I do use a spray bottle to help rinse the cleaner off before I wrap everything up. th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
The brush does all the work
exactly!
Ugh...I have that model transcend in the clip with the awnings in the wind, gave me a twist in the stomach lol.
I bet it did, looks expensive to fix. keep an eye on that awning!
Just a heads up, since white vinegar is acidic and the bleach mix is not, the vinegar will be far more damaging to metal components.
It has less to do with acidity and more about the chemical composition. Bleach is actually a base, not an acid, yet is far more corrosive to metal. A quick google search will confirm bleach is caustic to metal. Distilled white vinegar is about 25% less acidic than regular white vinegar and is produced and sold for cleaning purposes.
Great video Ross all great tips I myself as well use vinegar now to do the water lines and to clean the hot water tank thanks
thanks again Corey!
If you own a tankless water heater you still should use the bypass. They DO contain metal.
you are correct... in this video I didnt want to get off into the weeds with tankless heaters... many dont have bypass valve set ups installed from the factory. Explaining that I think is better for a dedicated video. Thanks for commenting
Needed these reminders
glad to help Danny, thanks for being here.
If you wannt to use compressed air you have the wrong tool. There is a tool to blow out debris on automotive condensers. It has several small holes and willl clean better than brush with foam. I use it on motorhome also. It is about $39
Thanks David, Ill have to look into them. I still dont feel like compressed air is ever going to clean as well as a liquid with physical pressure behind it.
Nice video and good info
Thanks
The upside to having a tow vehicle that's right at the 80/20 limit is that I have to manage my weight and I empty my RV of all water as I leave the campground.
yes to this comment! I'm with that line of thinking my friend.
If folks use a quick setup canopy, please tie it down. We saw a bunch of canopies flying around, damaging other people's RVs during a thunderstorm.
great point, thanks for adding to the video!
I wouldn't worry too much about diluted bleach in your water heater. Reason being, I've seen some studies on metal degradation with bleach and it's not that significant when diluted. Also, faucets are often metal so wouldn't it destroy them as well? Your home washing machine sees a much higher concentration and often times the tubs are stainless, uncoated. I'd much rather know my water heater is disinfected. Also I asked the same question when attending RVTI and the tech teaching the class said the same thing, bleach won't cause significant harm to the heater tank when diluted properly.
i wont disagree with you that at some point of dilution it wont corrode metal for the time its sitting in the tank, but again as mentioned in the video, rv techs are not chemists, and I'm not really confident in trusting what anyone "says" until I see the actual science on it. thats what Im really looking for, if there is any scientific proof of this that you know of, please feel free to share Casey. Thank you.
Would love to have owners manuals again.
whats your year make and model?
Another great video. Thanks!!
thank you for the comment my friend!
Hi just bought a pop up
nice, have fun!
My RV uses a happy jack type system. on both are slides. I have put them both partially out and in a million times without issue. Have you ever seen a system like that?
i have seen them but I dont have much knowledge about them... the slide mechanism that moves the slide though is not what seals the slide from the weather, so when you say you partially put them out with no issues, do you mean during the rain and water is not getting in?
You need a different nozzle to use compressed air.
maybe, but I just dont feel its ever going to clean nearly as well as physical pressure. Same principle of washing a car, dishes, home air conditioner coils, you use a cleaner that is polarized against dirt and solid pressure or even water pressure. not air. plus the brush helps straighten any bent fins, see here: th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
What about a pressure washer at a safe distance to prevent too much pressure bending the fins.
?
never tried it, but youll have to seal up the hole into the living space first.
EXCELLENT information
hope it helped
Vinegar does contain an acid. Acids are corrosive as well. The key with bleach, vinegar or hydrogen peroxide is dilution to an acceptable level and not leaving the solution in the system for too long.
That is correct Paul about vinegar being acidic, however that doesnt change the fact that bleach is corrosive to metal. Bleach is actually a base, not an acid, so acids and bases affect different compounds and materials differently. Plastics are usually nonreactive to acids, thats why they come in plastic bottles. Additionally, until someone can point me to science based information that shows the dilution rate used to santize rv plumbing is non-corrosive to metail, I choose to use white vinegar in my tank. hope that clears things up. If you know where I can find this info please share!
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I believe acetic acid will damage metals in high enough concentrations. Are you aware that some municipalities use chlorine to sanitize water with limited damage to metal fixtures. Also, some RV fresh water systems have brass fittings in them. Are you concerned about those? I stand by my statement that concentration of the corrosive chemical and the time it is contact with the metals is what needs to be considered.
Thanks Paul, I am aware that water treatment plants use bleach to sanitize drinking water. In this video, I show a screen shot of the EPA webpage that covers how to do this yourself. I totally agree with you that how long something sits will affect the corrosion rate, but my response was in regards your comment about acids. Just because something is labeled an acid doesnt mean it will corrode a specific material. Muriatic acid will remove rust on metal, glycolic acid is safe on aluminum. There are plenty of acids that are safe on metal, while bleach, a base, is corrosive to metal. So my response was not necessary a disagreement with your comment about exposure time, it was to point at that the term "acid" isnt necessarily a bad thing. What I would like to find that I cannot is scientific evidence of what dilution rate bleach is no longer corrosive, or wont be corrosive for the amount of time it sits in a metal tank. I've had 3 or 4 people already say "its fine," but when I ask where they've gotten the chemistry-based proof of this, they just wont respond. So all that said, without the actual chemical facts, I choose to not put bleach in metal tanks. I'm warning people that bleach is caustic to metal, that I choose not to use it, and they should do their own research before making their own decisions. Thats as inofrmative and fair as I can get.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I’m not saying that bleach is non-corrosive to metal. I am saying that both chlorine and acetic acid are corrosive to metals. Even distilled water is corrosive to metals. Just talk to employees at Los Alamos National Laboratory dealing with cooling loops in radioactive systems. Corrosion is monitored in those systems. My point is that many chemicals are corrosive to metals. There isn’t any concentration of either chlorine or acetic acid that is non-corrosive to metals. The rate of corrosion is affected by the concentration of the chemical and the temperature of the solution.
There are metal fittings in some RV water systems. Those fittings can be damaged by chlorine (and vinegar).
Chlorine (and vinegar) should not be left in any part of RV water systems indefinitely. My water distiller warns of using undiluted vinegar or leaving the diluted solution in the stainless steel tank for a long time. Vinegar is corrosive to corrosion resistant stainless steel.
High concentrations of either should be avoided in RV water systems. Low concentration of chlorine in RV water systems seem to be acceptable. Thus, there isn’t a warning about filling water tanks from some city water systems. Additionally, water heaters should be well rinsed before operated to avoid an increase in chemical reactivity.
Vinegar is recommended for hot water heaters to both sanitize the tank, as well as dissolve mineral deposites that build up in the tank.
A warning should be given concerning those who use ethanol as a disinfecting agent. There are people who have used ethanol. Many plastics are hygroscopic and exposure to alcohol can quickly remove enough water to cause cracking, damaging the plastic. Rubber can also become brittle by exposure to alchhol. Additionally, a high concentration of ethanol is required to sanitize. 70 percent (140 proof).
I attempted to provide clarity and I failed. For that, I apologize. I find your dismissal of my presented information distressing.
Great info and thanks for spending the time writing that. Again, nobody is disagreeing about things being corrosive to different materials over time. I agree, so Im not sure where you are getting that I dismissed your information. The point I wanted to make in my first reply was that the definition "acid" or "acidic" doesnt necessarily mean it is corrosive. There are "bases" that are more corrosive to certain materials than acids, bleach being one. Thats all I wanted to point out. Again, thanks for the comments, I appreciate the time you take to write them and add information to the videos.
You mentioned in one of your videos you had a maintenance list and another list for set up and tear down. Where can I find that list if you still have it. Appreciate the details in your videos and all the supporting links.
here is one to start, more to come: th-cam.com/video/ermDoIB-y7s/w-d-xo.html
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS10:01
Great stuff. Thanks for posting
thanks for watching as always!
Thank you for these videos! You always do an amazing job! You always answer the questions, that are not asked. That’s priceless!
Thank you!
thank you, glad you enjoy the videos.
One of your best videos! I am guilty of the wet bay and flipping switches under pressure. Makes sense
I see quite a few issues where peoples water tanks fill while on city water. there are other reasons this happens, but Id bet when this valve fails on this type of panel it will allow water both directions.
Chlorine is used in municipal water systems, you are safe with a diluted bleach solution for sanitation on all items if you flush it through.
Mike, flushing is one thing, but sanitizing the water system requires you to let the solution sit in the tanks for 8 hours or more. I guess what I'm looking for and would like to see is some chemistry-backed proof that the dilution rate used in RV sanitizing is non-corrosive to a metal tank it has been sitting in for 8+ hours. Hope that helps.
The rate at which you dilute bleach to sanitize plumbing lines vs purifying drinking water are 2 entirely different animals. The 2 ounces per 15 gallons used to sanitize lines is not safe to drink, and not the same process water treatment plants use. I’m with Ross, I’m just keeping bleach out of water heater.
I’m wondering if vacuuming the AC coils would be another option, depending on the size, power, shape, and accessibility of the vacuum. I realize hauling some up there would be ludicrous.
Maybe any soapy spray (dawn power wash??) combined with that brush thingy would do the trick. Along with rinsing with the hose??? Would that be OK?
i use a shop vac to clean the loose debris in and around the coils, but after using the foaming cleaner and maybe some water to rinse, there isnt much of a need to do anything else. Here is our coil cleaning video: th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this video
youre welcome
Thank you!
You're welcome!
What recommendations do you have reguarding water if you are temporarily living in your rv?
same principles apply that are in this video: th-cam.com/video/mmrrOb4sOb8/w-d-xo.html
and pick up one of these to rinse those tanks: amzn.to/3RGlxP2
You may have answered this. When the RV is parked and not in use, do you recommend the slide out even a bit?
i wouldnt ever leave the slide out partially, especially when not in use (if that means you are away from the rv)... the bulbs seals are not activated unless its fully opened or closed. May I ask your reasoning for doing this?
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS The age old Question: Do I keep my slide out when the RV is in storage. Myself, I keep the slide in.
I am mixed on your last tip. wouldn't condensation build up faster in a empty tank until it is completely dry inside? For that reason would it be better to fill the tank while the RV sits for a few weeks? Treated water already has a minimum amount of bleach in it, does it not? What are your thoughts?
good question, my thoughts are this: condensation will build up in a tank regardless of whats in it due to temperature changes. with no water in the tank, you may get some condensation too, but condensation is fraction of the volume I'm talking about in this video: I'm talking about gallons and gallons of water, so take condensation out of the equation for a second... the point Im trying to make is that you have a lot of water sitting in a dark tank with an oxygen supply for weeks at a time. remember, fresh water tanks are not air tight, there is an open overflow valve that provides oxygen to the tank, as well as the gravity fill (if you have one) in which most caps dont seal air tight. Standing water in a dark tank with an oxygen supply is going to produce a much nastier environment than a little condensation.
Also, while you are correct about bleach in treated water, that may not always be the case... remember you are getting water from a lot of different water sources as you travel to different locations in an RV... I wouldnt assume they are all treated equally and/or properly. dont forget you also have campgrounds on well water.
so, condesation aside, its the gallons and gallons of sitting water that is the reason I just empty the fresh tank and water heater between trips. I get a comment at least once a week about people having rotten egg smells from their fresh tank and/or water heater and in 8 years I never had this problem because I keep those tanks dry unless they are being used and the water is being circulated and refreshed. Then, flushing some water out when arriving at a new site should help remove any condensation that did form. Hope that makes sense, thanks for the question, and more importantly how you respectually approached it.
We're new to RVing, I wonder about if there is a tolerance for exact level with respect to deploying the slide. I can consistently get to less than 1 degree off level, but have yet to hit a perfect bubble.
my guess is that your comment stems from when you deploy your slide it throws it off level from you when parked and leveled? this is normal. i think there probably is more of a tolerance than manufacturers like to admit... some folks know, for example only, the slide throws them off 1 degree low on the slide side once extended, so they will level 1 degree low on the non-slide side while parking... then the RV is level when the slide is open. Since every camper is different and there are diffferent slide mechanisms, I would never condone doing this, but the realist in me says if you are only 1 degree off, you are probably fine. I cant remember the last time I checked level with the slide out, but I know that before I open the slide, my level is spot on, and once the slide is open, everything inside feels good. Hope that makes sense.
We have the same awning as you have you ever adjuyours if how? Ours pulls to one when closing. Thanks
th-cam.com/video/COI-oub3ksU/w-d-xo.html
Does the foaming coil cleaner damage the rubber roof ? Even if you wipe it off it will get wet when it rains and run across the roof
i doubt it, however, there should be no reason to get any of it on the roof... the coils dont overlap past the drip pan, and its easy to spray. Rubber roofs like EPDM and TPO are pretty resistant to a lot of elements. It is not something I would even worry about, but again unless you sneeze you shouldnt have to worry about any substantial amount of cleaner on the roof that you cant just wipe off.
Three way valve? What’s the problem? How does damage occur?
i havent taken mine apart to see what could potentially happen, but ive seen a video from a while back (I think it was from Love Your Rv's channel if I remember correctly) that goes over the issue. There is a spring loaded check valve in the fixture. From what I remember about the fix the spring becomes dislodged fromt he back pressure while switching the valve. Thats the best I can remember the actual issue, but i know its a real issue, and its in the manual for a reason. I also dont know if its design is shared on all RV's ( I assume its not), but if anything, the important part if you are unsure is to check your manual on your specific RV.
Can you run white vinegar through the hot water heater?
yes: th-cam.com/video/tApcUadZt_Q/w-d-xo.html
Thanks god bless
👍
Water tanks are black for one reason, bacteria can’t grow without light. What do people with cisterns do with thousands of gallons of water? I don’t feel there is a need when no light is available.
RV fresh water tanks are usually white, John. Additionally, depending on the bacteria, it only needs light to survive if it is photosynthetic bacteria. Oxygen is present in fresh water rv tanks as well. There is an open overflow valve, and many RV's have a gravity fill that usually does not seal air tight at the cap.
Good info
thanks again my friend.
It’s really the coil side facing the fan that needs cleaning the most. 20 years appliance tech.
the coil in this demostration is the evaporator coil, which is located in front of a hole to the living space to absorb the heat and moisture from the living space. the side that is shown is the dirty side because thats the side pulling from the living space, not the rear of the coil, which is clean.
Please explain again how you reset a ST slide again please. Half out and half in a couple of times is this correct?
the whole process for a Schwintek sync is on the screen during the video... just hit pause, take a screen shot and send it to your phone (sorry im not at my computer right now)... it might also be in your owners manual. 😊
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS you are correct 👍. Thank you 😊
Is there a checklist you can share?😊
for which process?
Love your videos...I always learn something, Thank You
thanks Joe!
Ross, your thoughts on using bleach a few drops of bleach in the fresh tank to sanitize water for drinking?
We do this regularly in AZ, a teaspoon to keep 20-30 gallons fresh. Bleach also will burn off over time. I don't want things growing in my fresh water system.
the EPA has a whole section on their site about this.
thanks for sharing @toyhaulen
Never use a EZ up canopy over the table either it will damage your camper also
What are you talking about? It’s a canopy, how is it going to damage your camper or table?
My brother had a EZ up canopy and a strong gust of wind come up even though he had it stacked down it pulled it up and the canopy landed on his camper
i get what you're saying now, ive been using these for a few decades now, never had one fly up. if there are windy conditions i will usually add tie downs from the top frame to the ground in addition to the stakes. ill use spiral stakes on the tie downs and never had an issue. sorry to hear about your brothers issue.
Didn't realize that opening low point drains would empty the water heater.
yes sir, and in this video I show you hot it empties more than the plug does: th-cam.com/video/tApcUadZt_Q/w-d-xo.html
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Cool, thanks. And I know I watched that video because I've been subscribed for several years. Always learning!
thanks my friend, it is very much appreciated!
Hey Ross! I have a very specific question about my RV, where can I contact you?
Here is fine.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Okay! So we have a 24’ Forest River Campsite Reserve and it has drop down stabilizer jacks. Our drive way where it’s parked slopes up so the back jacks are farther from the ground and the front ones are really close to the ground when not even lowered. The reference photo on the RV itself shows the best positions to how far the jacks should be lowered. If we lower those jacks that are closer to the ground they barely lower enough before already touching the ground, but we notice if they’re not lowered, inside there is some bouncing. So what do we do? Do we lower them until they’re in a good position which raises the RV a hefty amount or do we just leave them up?
We just want to know what the best thing to do in that situation would be just in case we’re ever at a campsite with this same circumstance
you can disregard those pictures in the manual. if you are on a steep slope, you're on a steep slope. stabilizer jacks are just that, jacks that help stabilize. if you're on a slope and 1 set needs to go down much further than the other set, so be it. it wont hurt anything.
now, how effective they are based on how far they are down is definitely the real question... as they extend further, their profile becomes thinner and they become less stable. you can put blocks like these under them so they dont have to extend all the way. amzn.to/3xiWlHp i have done that quite a few times. but you are fine using them on slopes. i hope that answers your question, if not, please respond.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Yes it kind of answers my question. I would’ve liked to send you a reference photo but if you’re saying it’s okay to disregard those guide photos than we will do that!
I wish I had watched this a few days ago. Common sense should have told me, but it did not. I was on a loading dock to pick up a new mattress and had to open my slide in order to get it in. Dock was at least 6% but probably greater of a hill. I broke something, and it won't slide in now. I had to drive home that way. No rv repair answered their phones or returned my calls. I can't believe how stupid I was. I should have known better😢
sorry to hear that, hope you get it worked out.
God bless
👍
PEX is used in houses, enough of weak rv plumbing
im not understanding what you're saying: "enough of weak rv plumbing." ??? If youre stating pex is not weak, I wont disagree with you... the problem is the plastic fittings they use instead of metal fittings or copper sharkbites commonly used in houses, and thats where you will likely have a failure. something else to consider, if you are in fact comparing houses to RV's, is that your house doesnt rattle down the pot hole ridden highways at 65 mph. this is especially harder on plastic fittings than it is metal, especially when it isnt secured as tightly as it is in a house. Sometimes this pex is simply zip tied, of which I exposed in this video: th-cam.com/video/SFn2kkpb8i0/w-d-xo.html All of that movement on top of the bare minimum standard fittings they use creates an atmosphere MUCH different than in a house.
Hey umm… The air compressor isn’t doing anything because you didn’t attach the black regulator to the front of that air gun. It reduces the air nozzle to the size of a Bee-bee and therefore like an airless increases the air pressure. That’s how I clean all my filters.
However I just realized maybe you are wanting to dissuade people from doing it with air to sell the product you recommended.
First, i have no affiliation with with the coil cleaner company. I use the product, therefore I recommend it. If I was affiliated with them, it would need to be disclosed in the video per the FCC. Second, like you, I also clean air filters with compressed air, because liquids and scrubbing can damage filters.... but coils are not filters... they are a metal.... Nothing beats liquid and pressure to clean a solid surface. think of it this way: do you wash your car with compressed air? hope that helps.
Never drive with your slides extended...obvious, common sense right? I went to an RV Show last year and was horrified to watch the dealer moving a Class A in the parking lot with extended slides. I will never buy a coach from them!
WOW! crazy right? Thanks for sharing my friend.
You should always use a slideout support that takes the weight off the slides and operating mechanism
Per at least 3 manufacturers that know of, Grand Design being one, the use of supports is not recommended and will void the warranty. With a support under the slide, as the rv naturally moves from walking, tires settling, etc… the slide doesn’t move. That puts stress on the gib and the tracks.
As an HVAC tech, I cringed when you blew the coil with compressed air. Never blow in that direction, you’re blowing the debris INTO the coil like that. Blow it from the backside so that you’re blowing the debris OUT OF the coil.
it didnt make a difference either way, the compressed air did nothing to move anything off the coils, either way you blow it, which is less siginificant on a flat open coil you find on an RV then it is on a square enclosed design you see in home. even with a smaller tip, youre never getting it as clean as you are with a liquid and pressure. thats really the point i wanted to make. the same way you dont clean home AC coils with compressed air. unfortunately we dont have the luxury of using a water hose on an RV. how you clean a home ac coil is different than the RV coil, but air is not used in either application.
home: th-cam.com/video/PGC2gOkOSTk/w-d-xo.html
rv: th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
Wow the fact that you had to add in your video to not transport your RV with your slide outs put is scary!! But I’m not aurprised
yep, it happens.
Do the police take away your RV card if you drive with the slides open? Driver's license stamp prohibits the driver from ever driving an RV again. Told to go home and stay home in the future?
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i hope so, joking aside about the damage it would cause to your RV, thats very dangerous and could kill someone on the road.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS, good response and great video. But the true answer is yes, the police could stop you and issue you a ticket. A vehicle can only be 102 inches wide, and most travel trailers are close to that number with the slides in. driving with the slide out would, more than likely, put the RV over the max width limit of 102 inches. which could result in a traffic ticket.
One more note, enjoyed your video and would like to add that not all RV's must be level to extend slide outs. I know your target audience is the travel trailer community, but some motorhome people watch your videos also, you have great advice.
The Entegra luxury motorhomes require the RV to be at ride height when extending slide out rooms.
Once again, great video.
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10:01 You are wrong about bleach. It is an alkali, not an acid, and wouldn't be corrosive, especially in the highly diluted form used to sanitize the water system. Actually vinegar is an acid.
At no point in this video did I ever say bleach was an acid, what are you talking about?
Additionally, sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is absolutely corrosive to metal, its a scientific fact. Sorry, I'm not going to have a debate about this.
Now, when it becomes non-corrosive to metal is the question I pose in the video. You are saying it wouldnt be corrosive in the diluted form used to sanitize a water system, so 2 questions... what is the dilution rate you are talking about because you dont mention it in your response? Second, can you point me to the reputable website or science-based article that proves or confirms this or where you got this information?
There shouldn't ever be water left in tank after camping trip as tanks are not designed to travel with any liquid in them
I'm not sure where you are getting your information, but you absolutely can travel with water in the tanks. It defeats the purpose for those who travel full time or boondock. Most campgrounds without water hook ups at the site have a fill station to fill up the fresh tank at the entrance so you can drive to your site with a full tank. I think it was Jayco who was forced to honor a warranty on a tank that fell out while traveling with water in it because nowhere in their discosures was not traveling with water in the tank ever mentioned. it is absolutely acceptable to travel with water in the tank. If it werent there would be no such thing as boondocking or campgrounds with no on site water connection. in fact, thats the point of having the tank, otherwise they would not have tanks and you would have to just connect to the pressurized city water connection, which most state parks dont even have.
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS guess you haven't read the manual, as they say not to travel with water in tanks. GD has had a few fall out as well as other brands and Jayco was the only one that ever paid and that was one claim then manual changed. Tanks are only held in by ½" lip on two sides. Add 40 pounds to tank, tank sags and that lup becomes about ¼". Yes its fine through the campground but that's not traveling down the road. But hey what would manufacturer or their licensed mechanic know right
I've ready many manuals over the years, GD, Alliance, Brinkley, some Keystones... im looking at the Grand Design transcend 2023 manual now, it does not mention anywhere to not travel with water. If fact, they say that it will increase your GVWR, so reducing the amount of water in the tank will increase the amount of weight you can carry. I dont think they would print this if they didnt want you to travel with water in the tank, instead they say it will affect your GVWR if you do and to be aware of this. page 53 on the transcend 2023 manual. Nowhere in the manual does it specifically imply that you should not drive with water in the fresh water tank, and additionally in the warranty exclusions it does not mention this at all. If you know of somewhere it says this, please provide a link as I would be happy to investigate this with different manufacturers. Thanks.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS yes anything you add to a trailer will increase gvwr and is legally required to be stated in manual. I'm currently driving and don't have the manuals in front of me but have seen it in both manuals and bulletins from almost every manufacturer. There are some that are designed to travel full but not many. Ones built on proper HD frames like luxe are designed to travel with all tanke full but they also have axle capacity to support camper fully loaded. GD momentum are starting to come with "supported" tanke but it's just a 2"X1/8" flat bar screwed to frame and not really enough to support tank weight loaded but helps
im not arguing with you by any means, im here to find answers, same as you. I would never travel with a full tank... 5 gallons would be the most, but still not seeing anything in writing, which is the end all/be all with warranties. the 2023 manual I looked at was released after all the additional bulletins, so it should directly say this in there somewhere. I think Ill reach out to a few manufacturers and see what they say. stay in touch and keep me posted on anything you find in writing. i think a very clear direction on different manufacturers and models within those manufacturers would be a useful topic to cover.