This is a motorcycle flywheel that is often brought to me by the bike shop to lighten. I thought you guys might enjoy seeing my way of doing it. Hope ya'll enjoy! Adam
3 pounds off the flywheel is HUGE. Rule of thumb is every pound of rotating weight you can remove from anywhere in the powertrain is equivalent to removing 6 pounds of dead weight from the motorcycle. A 9 pound flywheel is really heavy to start with so taking 3 pounds off it is not excessive at all. Excellent work.
Love watching you work . My father had a sheet metal factory, when I was young I enjoyed going and watching the men work . Your attention to detail is amazing. Thanks for making the videos.
As someone who hasn't done any machining except for high-school thirty years ago, I just want to say I love watching you, Tom, Keith and all the other TH-cam machinists at work - the best "Reality TV" there is - and your "toys" make me envious. Thanks for sharing, guys.
Adam you are a one hit wonder. I wish I could tap a part in my chuck which is one thou out and with just one tap get it true. You are a master machinist and a great mentor to all the newbies who rely on TH-cam to learn our craft, keep up the good work and thank you!
Kevin, we all get lucky sometimes. Ive had a few times that after chucking a piece in the 4 jaw, I stick my indicator on it and dont see movement. I instantly think the dial is stuck, but find out the shaft is already dead nuts true! LOL It doesnt happen often, but when it does I find myself laughing. Thanks for the support, and glad the videos are helping you out! Adam
Adam I had a shaft at work about a year ago that i machined over a hundred pounds off of it. I knew there would be a lot of machining, so i couldnt resist weighing it. That was a fun job cleaning out the chip pan for that one. I agree with Bill and Tom for that matter. Ever since Tom suggested buying a composition book and jotting down notes, i have filled pages upon pages with different things i do in the shop. Everything from fixtures for repetitive work to how i do things that come along once a year. Great video, that material finished better than it was from the factory. Mark
Always something good to learn from Tom, and many others on here as well. I do have some notes but not all in one place like the suggestions here, its a good tip. Sounds like you had one fun shaft to machine! Even more fun to sweat it out scooping chips out of the pan. Thanks Mark. Adam
Great video again. I used to do that on 2 cycle dirt bikes back it the 70's. It made them rev to max fast as an electric motor but it also took away most of what little low end torque they had and 2 cycles don't have much low end torque. They had to keep the revs up. It was a fad and most dirt bike fads back then tended to last about 90 days. Keep up the good videos.
The low-end torque a 2-stroke has depends on the engine design and tuning. Back in the early 1970's, I motocrossed a 400 Maico. That machine had SO much low end torque, in the first two gears you had to work to stall it. I also later raced a Suzuki TM400 and had to bolt on an aftermarket 4-pound flywheel to make that bike even semi-rideable; zero low end, explosive top end . So, yes, flywheel weight can be very important.
Adam.. 6 years!! I really hope you occasionally look back at your library of videos. EVERYTHING has progressed in such a positive way. You, you're shop, the videos them selves.. You're killing bud!
Thanks for sharing Adam. We've been doing this to ATV's for quite a few years. It makes the bikes rev super quick but they stall a lot easier with less momentum. Andy Maul
I enjoy watching your videos, I always learn something interesting. I'm sure your customers are always pleased with your professional work. Job well done .
Adam, thanks for the vid. Always interesting to see a pro at work. On the clutch question, motorcycles typically have a multi-disk wet clutch (in oil), not a dry friction plate against a flywheel like in a car. Slipping the clutch in a car will burn up the clutch in a hurry, but on a bike that's a normal part of riding at slow speeds, such as making turns in parking lots. The multi disk clutch has alternating friction and steel rings that bear on each other, not on a housing or flywheel. One set of rings is toothed on the OD, and the other is toothed on the ID...clamping them together transfers power. I suspect that the magnet has to do with sensing RPM or crank angle for an ECU to use for controlling timing. -- Mike
In fact the magnet is used for the charging and ignition system I generate electricity with the stator coil the flywheel is used to store kinetic energy it help on power delivery and smooth the engine
This video is pretty well aged now but very useful. Have always had this mod done on my race bikes. Excited that now I finally have a lathe of my own I can have a shot at doing it myself.
Nice work as usual. You deserve the good comments and I'm sure you've noticed that praise comes not just from guys like me that are beginners, but from top professionals out there. Acknowledgement from those who have achieved excellence has got to be encouraging. Thanks for sharing; keeps the light lit.
Its a great feeling to be acknowledged by some of the master machinists out there. I've been very humbled by this whole social media thing. I never thought that so many people would watch my work and enjoy it soo much. Its a great feeling. Its much appreciated. Thanks Jim! Adam
great job ! I think many people who have never raced bikes missed a point that you are an important STEP in bike tuning and it is 99.999% certain that the flywheel will be off for race balancing as the NEXT step along with the probable new cams and crank (which again will be lightened first) it was great to see as always Personally having had many bikes over many years I at least saw that because of the STAGE the tuning process was at a 4 jaw makes no real difference as long as structure is maintained and as always you excelled best wishes
Better start practicing Steve! Your not getting any younger. Thanks bud, I really appreciate the comments. Remember, time is money, but less time can equal more money. Adam
Abom79 OH, I been practicing but you will SOON find out. The older you get the harder it is to learn new things. lol I have improved so much since I started watching you and the other guys here on you tube. You guys don't relies how happy it has made me to be learning this stuff. I really watch every second of your and Tom's videos. I don't want to miss some secret move you guys might make. Thank you to all you machinists that are making the videos. I know how much more time it takes to do something when you are trying to video it.
Your welcome Steve. I enjoy filming my work and sharing it. At first I thought I was just showing you guys what I do but it has evolved so much already in this first year. I plan on to keep at it. You do the same. Practice makes perfect bud, and more experience helps along the way. I'm always learning, and always will. There's a lot to know in this trade. Adam
Wow nice work adam that is a crazy amount of weight loss on a fly wheel..And as you know the performance gain from taking that amount of weight off the flywheel incredible..Thank's..Hope all's well mate..
More Comments: I think the negative comments are from those who are jealous of your skills. I enjoy watching them because I had dyslexia all my life and never understood decimals. All the math needed to be a success. One of these days I will get it. Well, at least I taught myself the saxophone. lol
Nice work Adam, I used to do that on automotive flywheels for local drag racers down in Gainesville... You've got to wind her up and dump the clutch, but they had plenty of power to light up the tires coming off the line! Thanks for sharing this! :o] O,
I,am sure the people at the Triumph shop know first hand why they want you to do what you do something is working. Less weight faster bike, Could be wrong, And i could be right. Nice job Adam. I love Triumph,s cook it up.
Very late comment, kinda catching up. Lovely work. This is 4 years later so hope it is stil working well and the rider is safe. Have a Honda myself. Ty.
its going to rev some with the flywheel being three llb lighter i remember getting my mini flywheel lightened it use to rev like formula 1 car lol good video adam
I'm also interested in the effect (if any) on balance. Obviously since this is coupled straight to the crankshaft, it might not be easy to notice but I imagine that it's just a little bit more strain on the bearings. I'd be curious to see it mounted on those shaft inspection rollers you showed us a while back.
Thanks heaps Adam.i just bought a new hobby mans 5inch lathe and all your experience and technology is most helpful. I'm a retired motor mechanic so have your tips to learn from. Thanks again.
I like the work you do and the meticulous explanations and demos that accompany them. I noticed a few dimples on the face of this flywheel. I suppose these were used for balancing the flywheel. These were taken off when you gave turned the fly wheel. Would this flywheel have to be rebalanced?
After watching your videos i want to make some precision work to! hahaha! I have never used a lathe but i love watching u do. Such skilles i would loved to be ur customer :)
Hey Adam, Finish looks great even with those holes in the part, What is the Iscar insert CNMG??. Nice job, I'm sure the owner will be noticing three pounds off his rotating mass. Talk to you soon. Tom
Tom, that was the same corner of the ISCAR cnmg 431 insert I used in my first face off video. Still going strong! They've been working pretty good and leave a good finish. If you could have seen the finish on the sample they brought to me years ago...OMG! Looks like someone was using a burnt up hss tool bit. From what they say it gives better performance for the bikes. I havnt gone into specifics with them though. I really need to find myself one of them fancy 6 jaw chucks! Talk to ya soon bud. Adam
Cute little thing lol..I used to mill and balance CAT flywheels damn things were near 100lbs. We did flywheels for all different companies id run about 110 parts in 10hrs first mill then balance then stamp and pack in shipping crates on a pallet. Was kinda a fun job to be honest depending on what lathe operator I worked with, hated the lazy ones makes the night drag. Made a lot of friends and a lot of parts
Hi Adam Nice job The lighter fly wheel gives a better (faster) pick up The way you had it mounted (running true) the balance should not be a issue Regards John
Hey John, the balance shouldnt be far off, and Ive never had one complaint on my work, only wanting more done. I know they said it helps the bikes rev quicker. Thanks for all you do buddy! Adam
the setup made the face true for a facing operation but the turning was not checked. I guess Aboms 3 jaw chuck is just very accurate. I would have to use a 4 jaw chuck to make sure the center hole is concentric to the sides. Balance was also off as soom as Abom started facing because of the 3 small balancing holes on the face side started being erased. Perhaps a lighter wheel makes balancing less critical for the customer too.
not easy to rebalance, @18:34 you can see/hear its a bit off-center. Rebalancing would require a lot to get it right again. But by losing 1/3rd of the weight, the issue will probably be a lot less.
Balance will be off enough to kill bearings in 10-15k miles, not a problem in 'racer' engine that is ragged to death, or crashed, long before that. Nice and true running mass of flywheel with magnets off by good 1-3 mm(40-120 thou) would need even more balancing holes drilled than 3lb heavier one. Non concentric mass is now higher fraction of whole rotating mass. Nicely done weight reduction but should be followed by balancing to be roadworthy.
It was on t' piss from the factory, Adam's machining work far outdoes them, but it'll still need balancing because of A. All the other wonky factory machining he didn't touch and B. Any porosity or just general density variations within the bar stock. Can't get around these things :/
Your nickname is now "Quick Draw McGraw" for the fasted setter upper. One hit with the homemade lead hammer and "BAM" quick draw gets er done. I know that's Keiths little saying but it fits here as well.
I'm just curious Adam...and I sure hope I don't touch upon a sore spot. I'm sure you know just how much everyone who is worth a damn loves your videos, shucks, we even love you personally! With that said, who in the heck gives a thumbs down on a nice and mellow video like this? You share your time and effort and show people a few things along the way, so I don't understand the negativity? I know, and am proud of the fact, that we live in a free country where you can express your opinions without fear of repercussion, but I guess I will never understand a person going out of their way to knock someone's efforts at goodwill and sharing when they can just move along. Why not just go on your way and watch something else? Huh...I'm sorry to bring up the lonely little hater and his one tiny thumbs down. Like I said in the beginning, I'm sure you know the people that matter think very highly of you. You are one heck of a nice and intelligent guy! Just poking through your archives looking for some shots of tool angles to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong when I saw the blemish. Nothing a little emery cloth won't polish away, he he. Aloha...Chuck.
Thanks for the nice comments. Every video has thumbs down, and there's people out there for whatever reason always have something they don't like about a video. Who's knows what there reason is, could be they dissagree with my technique, I talk too much, I'm boring, or they just think the video sucks. I have learned to ignore the thumbs down. Everyone gets them, no matter how awesome a video is. No matter how much you guys enjoy my work and what I show you I do for a living, someone out there will disagree with something, and a few give the thumbs down for that. But hey, thanks for all of YOUR continued support. Adam
My pleasure Adam, my pleasure. I guess guys like us were raised in the old fashioned way. I find it much easier to just click on something else to watch than to poke holes in someone's video. That is part of what I love about the loyal group that has been so welcoming and helpful to me here. There is just so much old fashioned support and camaraderie, it gives hope that the world isn't really falling apart like the news would have us believe ;). Aloha my man...Chuck
I've had a few thumbs down on my videos. I learned that a few of them were simply because of the fact they were firearm related. Aside from the one person that actually admitted to that, you never know why they give you a thumbs down.
I have been thinking about getting a lathe to tinker with and found this video highly informative. I have an old honda CB 550 and am wondering if this mod would help save fuel, as in mpg. Thanks for the post Adam.
Ppl commenting about the balancing after turning. I've often found that a lightened flywheel thats been turned on a lathe will be pretty balanced. Especially on cast flywheels. You can see how out of true it was when Adam touched off the face of the flywheel and the outer radius. Turning it centered and square in the lathe will improve the balance.
Very cool Adam, you're probably sick and tired of being asked the balancing question and I read a lot of the comments in this video and your patient repeated answer "The balancing is handled by the bike shop" but you showed us your persicion toller jig to check the balance and trueness of a shaft a few weeks ago, are you not curious about using it to check the balancing? I know I am and the bonus would be we get to see that tool in pratical use! One last question, I've started to watch videos and read the interweeb on identifying alloys, you mention that this metal is pretty hard (and it sure does look like it in the video). Any pointers how you would go about determining the alloy of that flywheel? Not looking at the actual alloy but the process you would use to determine it. Curious mind want to know. As always, we are very fortunate that you take the time to PRODUCE these videos. Filming the job is the easy part, you must spend ridiculous time on post production - THANKS for that. Take care from Cold Canada where it's -10°F and getting another foot of snow tomorrow.
Nice work Adam, I'm going to have to look how that flywheel is used in the Triumph. Do yourself a favor and make up a little sketch and throw it in a binder. That binder will be very useful in 10 years.
3 lb doesn't sound like much, but the further out it sits on the work piece - the more effect it has in reducing this thing's moment of inertia (which is what we want) so I'd say that's pretty awesome! Before starting on this though I'd ask the customer about any load bearing features on the item and treat them very gently, and with massive radii nearby to prevent fatigue cracks. I'm guessing however that anything that takes any actual load is on the inner side of the flywheel, those fingers look like they could be clutch engagement, but they're spaced far too irregularly for that, so my guess would be they work with a Hall effect sensor for engine timing
The starter sprague clutch and gear mounts to the back of the flywheel on most motorcycles. The ridges are timing marks picked up by the bikes ignition sensors. There is no physical engagement of the flywheel on another part to impart load. It spins around the stator that is mounted on the engine case cover to generate AC electricity which the bikes regulator/rectifier turns into safe levels for "12V DC" system.
Don't they need to be balanced again after you've taken off a lot of the balancing holes and changed the geometry? And wouldn't it be better to finish those steps with a radius fillet for strength?
my first thought as well. that balance was for standard use, if anything, high rpm high performance use would increase the need for balancing. I figure (hope) the motorcycle shop has something in mind for that, and that the actual machining is the part needing done on this stop in its journey.
nice cool can you do all the milling for creating crankshafts , camshafts , pistons , and valves as well as all the rest of the internal components of engines and transmissions
The weight of the wheel is critical to what they want the engine to do. Did they experiment with different weights to get the desired results? I guess what I am asking is how did you come up with the formula for the first one? I would figure it was something somebody else did and gave a desired weight to end up at. Keep doing your thing Adam! Single life is best.
I am kind of surprised you did not fab up a stub arbor with a threaded center hole & flat washer & bolt the same size as the crank to hold concentrically to the center of the crank. Also since you cut all the balance holes out, how did you rebalance it ? I use balancing wheels when doing racing outboard flywheels Adam . ------> FLYWHEEL BALANCING: The first thing I do is make up a stub shaft to mount the wheel in the lathe. This is done as follows, a piece of stock with a bigger OD then crankshaft is installed in the three jaw chuck face and center drilled for a live center. Set the compound of the lathe so that it will cut the same angle taper with the compound of the lathe as is on the crank if it is a tapered crank, cut the taper down until your live center just touches its mating center hole and will allow you to lock the flywheel on the taper you cut with the compound. Try and keep the shaft short as possible so the flywheel clears the chuck of the lathe. Take a dial indicator and rotate the shaft to check for run out of stub shaft. There must be no run out. Mount the flywheel on the fabricated shaft and lock with the live center on flywheel tight. Check the O.D. of the wheel. My wheel was .030 out of round. A total of .070 was taken off the O.D., .035 off each side to clean up. More can be removed if wanted . After machining re balance turned flywheel on static balance wheels and drill lighting holes as needed to bring in zero spine roll back of flywheel on wheels. -------> cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-yp39j5/4s9liwcv/products/117156/images/297507/WBS-002__49754.1462909489.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
Adam, First, thank you for making these video's. I have watched quite a few of your videos now and find them informative and entertaining. Between yourself, Keith F, Keith R, Doubleboost, mrpete222 and one or two others, I don't think I'll ever have to watch TV again! One question on this video though. I note you don't ever use carriage or cross slide stops. I would have thought on a job like this flywheel, it would be ideal to use stops so you can come up to exactly the same point for each cut (which you do with your mag-base dial gauge). Is this personal preference, or is there a technical reason for this? Cheers, Brad
Hi sir I have some questions to ask drag racing crankshaft should be heavy or light for 2 Stroke and 4 stroke both can you suggest me right way to do this please help me give me some tips!
No concerns about balancing it again? I have a flywheel I want to lighten but I have been hesitating to do so because I am not sure how to check the balance afterwards. Also, you took off the timing marks on the outside. Might be worth noting them so that you can re-scribe them afterwards?
The most effective way to reduce inertia in a flywheel is by removing mass further away from the center axis. Of course, don’t make it too thin anywhere.
Adam,
As always, another great video! It's great to see you back in the shop and doing what you love to do. Thanks again.
Dave
3 pounds off the flywheel is HUGE. Rule of thumb is every pound of rotating weight you can remove from anywhere in the powertrain is equivalent to removing 6 pounds of dead weight from the motorcycle. A 9 pound flywheel is really heavy to start with so taking 3 pounds off it is not excessive at all. Excellent work.
Great info Gordy! Thanks for sharing.
Love watching you work . My father had a sheet metal factory, when I was young I enjoyed going and watching the men work . Your attention to detail is amazing. Thanks for making the videos.
As someone who hasn't done any machining except for high-school thirty years ago, I just want to say I love watching you, Tom, Keith and all the other TH-cam machinists at work - the best "Reality TV" there is - and your "toys" make me envious. Thanks for sharing, guys.
Adam you are a one hit wonder. I wish I could tap a part in my chuck which is one thou out and with just one tap get it true. You are a master machinist and a great mentor to all the newbies who rely on TH-cam to learn our craft, keep up the good work and thank you!
Kevin, we all get lucky sometimes. Ive had a few times that after chucking a piece in the 4 jaw, I stick my indicator on it and dont see movement. I instantly think the dial is stuck, but find out the shaft is already dead nuts true! LOL
It doesnt happen often, but when it does I find myself laughing.
Thanks for the support, and glad the videos are helping you out!
Adam
Can I send you my flywheel? Did machining?@@Abom79
Im a cnc machinist and have learned a lot from you. Awesome videos
Adam
I had a shaft at work about a year ago that i machined over a hundred pounds off of it. I knew there would be a lot of machining, so i couldnt resist weighing it. That was a fun job cleaning out the chip pan for that one. I agree with Bill and Tom for that matter. Ever since Tom suggested buying a composition book and jotting down notes, i have filled pages upon pages with different things i do in the shop. Everything from fixtures for repetitive work to how i do things that come along once a year. Great video, that material finished better than it was from the factory.
Mark
Always something good to learn from Tom, and many others on here as well. I do have some notes but not all in one place like the suggestions here, its a good tip.
Sounds like you had one fun shaft to machine! Even more fun to sweat it out scooping chips out of the pan.
Thanks Mark.
Adam
This is my favorite content right now. So happy to see such skill and knowledge put to work and the generosity of sharing this with everyone.
Very good work, a real craftsman!!! We do not have enough man like u.
Great video again. I used to do that on 2 cycle dirt bikes back it the 70's. It made them rev to max fast as an electric motor but it also took away most of what little low end torque they had and 2 cycles don't have much low end torque. They had to keep the revs up. It was a fad and most dirt bike fads back then tended to last about 90 days. Keep up the good videos.
The low-end torque a 2-stroke has depends on the engine design and tuning. Back in the early 1970's, I motocrossed a 400 Maico. That machine had SO much low end torque, in the first two gears you had to work to stall it. I also later raced a Suzuki TM400 and had to bolt on an aftermarket 4-pound flywheel to make that bike even semi-rideable; zero low end, explosive top end . So, yes, flywheel weight can be very important.
Adam.. 6 years!! I really hope you occasionally look back at your library of videos. EVERYTHING has progressed in such a positive way. You, you're shop, the videos them selves.. You're killing bud!
Always interesting!
Thanks Adam, you rock...
Thanks for sharing Adam. We've been doing this to ATV's for quite a few years. It makes the bikes rev super quick but they stall a lot easier with less momentum.
Andy Maul
Ive been doing these for the bike shop for years too, and before they had me machine them others were.
I enjoy watching your videos, I always learn something interesting. I'm sure your customers are always pleased with your professional work. Job well done .
It would be cool to have a junk one, so you could slice it in half, and really see what you could work with. Great job Adam !!
Adam, thanks for the vid. Always interesting to see a pro at work.
On the clutch question, motorcycles typically have a multi-disk wet clutch (in oil), not a dry friction plate against a flywheel like in a car. Slipping the clutch in a car will burn up the clutch in a hurry, but on a bike that's a normal part of riding at slow speeds, such as making turns in parking lots. The multi disk clutch has alternating friction and steel rings that bear on each other, not on a housing or flywheel. One set of rings is toothed on the OD, and the other is toothed on the ID...clamping them together transfers power.
I suspect that the magnet has to do with sensing RPM or crank angle for an ECU to use for controlling timing.
-- Mike
In fact the magnet is used for the charging and ignition system I generate electricity with the stator coil the flywheel is used to store kinetic energy it help on power delivery and smooth the engine
I don't slip the clutch going slow on a bike. If I have to, I will pull the clutch all the way in for a bit, then let it back out.
Nice video, you made it very clear to understand, so all of us can learn from it.Thanks.
Not only do you need the right equipment, it's your knowledge and experience that makes the difference.
its great to see you back in the shop Abom!
Hi Adam,
You can tell you have done several of these flywheels. Good to see you back. Keep up the GREAT work!
Take Care,
Reid
Great video Adam-Glad your back in action. Cheers
This video is pretty well aged now but very useful. Have always had this mod done on my race bikes. Excited that now I finally have a lathe of my own I can have a shot at doing it myself.
Sending one out now for my track bike...
I like the way your machines are cleaned foe next job .. very professional
Nice work as usual. You deserve the good comments and I'm sure you've noticed that praise comes not just from guys like me that are beginners, but from top professionals out there. Acknowledgement from those who have achieved excellence has got to be encouraging. Thanks for sharing; keeps the light lit.
Its a great feeling to be acknowledged by some of the master machinists out there. I've been very humbled by this whole social media thing. I never thought that so many people would watch my work and enjoy it soo much. Its a great feeling. Its much appreciated.
Thanks Jim!
Adam
great job !
I think many people who have never raced bikes missed a point that you are an important STEP in bike tuning and it is 99.999% certain that the flywheel will be off for race balancing as the NEXT step along with the probable new cams and crank (which again will be lightened first)
it was great to see as always
Personally having had many bikes over many years I at least saw that because of the STAGE the tuning process was at a 4 jaw makes no real difference as long as structure is maintained and as always you excelled
best wishes
Another great video. Nothing like seeing U Dudes at it. Much appreciated as well. aRM
Great job on that flywheel, Adam. Nice to have you back! :)
nice work as usual ... thanks for the video.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing!
Great Video ! Love your work.
The speed and efficiency you do these jobs just blows my mind. The quality is just is fantastic. Someday I hope I can do this quality of work.
Better start practicing Steve! Your not getting any younger. Thanks bud, I really appreciate the comments.
Remember, time is money, but less time can equal more money.
Adam
Abom79 OH, I been practicing but you will SOON find out. The older you get the harder it is to learn new things. lol I have improved so much since I started watching you and the other guys here on you tube. You guys don't relies how happy it has made me to be learning this stuff. I really watch every second of your and Tom's videos. I don't want to miss some secret move you guys might make. Thank you to all you machinists that are making the videos. I know how much more time it takes to do something when you are trying to video it.
Your welcome Steve. I enjoy filming my work and sharing it. At first I thought I was just showing you guys what I do but it has evolved so much already in this first year. I plan on to keep at it.
You do the same. Practice makes perfect bud, and more experience helps along the way. I'm always learning, and always will. There's a lot to know in this trade.
Adam
Wow nice work adam that is a crazy amount of weight loss on a fly wheel..And as you know the performance gain from taking that amount of weight off the flywheel incredible..Thank's..Hope all's well mate..
Fun to watch you work...
This is how I would envision a production machinest to do it. You are fast and accurate - I'd love to send you my projects :P
nice to see you back Adam, keep your head up for your family, :)
another nice video "THANK-YOU"
regards keith Swindon uk
Thanks Keith!
Awesome job Adam. I'm a bike rider myself and I know how much a lighter flywheel gives to the engine in terms of "readiness". Thumbs up :)
GREAT TO SEE YOU BACK.
I really appreciate the lesson and video.
Thank you.
More Comments: I think the negative comments are from those who are jealous of your skills. I enjoy watching them because I had dyslexia all my life and never understood decimals. All the math needed to be a success. One of these days I will get it. Well, at least I taught myself the saxophone. lol
keep up the good work. love your videos
Nice work Adam, I used to do that on automotive flywheels for local drag racers down in Gainesville... You've got to wind her up and dump the clutch, but they had plenty of power to light up the tires coming off the line! Thanks for sharing this! :o]
O,
Hey Adam love your videos keep them coming
Great video, enjoyed it.
I,am sure the people at the Triumph shop know first hand why they want you to do what you do something is working. Less weight faster bike, Could be wrong, And i could be right. Nice job Adam. I love Triumph,s cook it up.
Nice and good workmanship liked it very much.
Thank you for making videos!
Very late comment, kinda catching up. Lovely work. This is 4 years later so hope it is stil working well and the rider is safe. Have a Honda myself. Ty.
Nice job Adam,
its going to rev some with the flywheel being three llb lighter i remember getting my mini flywheel lightened it use to rev like formula 1 car lol good video adam
not any more rpm, just gets to the top of the tach faster
Something to remember when my hubby installs his custom 80cc 2 stroke on my beach bike
Great video man. Thanks.
Looks great. That is a very interesting vintage tool post. Never saw one like it before.
I made a video called Mutifix tool post review where I talk about it.
Cool I am going to check it out. Really enjoy this littel community of tool guys that has organically come about.
Good show Adam!
That is a heavy ass flywheel! Damn.... 9 lbs!
You are doing good Adam.
I'm also interested in the effect (if any) on balance. Obviously since this is coupled straight to the crankshaft, it might not be easy to notice but I imagine that it's just a little bit more strain on the bearings. I'd be curious to see it mounted on those shaft inspection rollers you showed us a while back.
Totally rad!
Thanks heaps Adam.i just bought a new hobby mans 5inch lathe and all your experience and technology is most helpful. I'm a retired motor mechanic so have your tips to learn from. Thanks again.
Another great video Adam, that Iscar insert does a beautiful job. By the way who won the face off, that was fun watching.
I like the work you do and the meticulous explanations and demos that accompany them. I noticed a few dimples on the face of this flywheel. I suppose these were used for balancing the flywheel. These were taken off when you gave turned the fly wheel. Would this flywheel have to be rebalanced?
You ara teaching turning us. Thank you very much.
After watching your videos i want to make some precision work to! hahaha! I have never used a lathe but i love watching u do. Such skilles i would loved to be ur customer :)
Hey Adam,
Finish looks great even with those holes in the part, What is the Iscar insert CNMG??. Nice job, I'm sure the owner will be noticing three pounds off his rotating mass.
Talk to you soon.
Tom
Tom, that was the same corner of the ISCAR cnmg 431 insert I used in my first face off video. Still going strong! They've been working pretty good and leave a good finish.
If you could have seen the finish on the sample they brought to me years ago...OMG! Looks like someone was using a burnt up hss tool bit.
From what they say it gives better performance for the bikes. I havnt gone into specifics with them though.
I really need to find myself one of them fancy 6 jaw chucks!
Talk to ya soon bud.
Adam
you do fine work
I know this is an older vid but im curious as to the loss of balance due to the balance drillings being machined away?
Cute little thing lol..I used to mill and balance CAT flywheels damn things were near 100lbs. We did flywheels for all different companies id run about 110 parts in 10hrs first mill then balance then stamp and pack in shipping crates on a pallet. Was kinda a fun job to be honest depending on what lathe operator I worked with, hated the lazy ones makes the night drag. Made a lot of friends and a lot of parts
Hi
Adam
Nice job
The lighter fly wheel gives a better (faster) pick up
The way you had it mounted (running true) the balance should not be a issue
Regards
John
Hey John, the balance shouldnt be far off, and Ive never had one complaint on my work, only wanting more done. I know they said it helps the bikes rev quicker.
Thanks for all you do buddy!
Adam
the setup made the face true for a facing operation but the turning was not checked. I guess Aboms 3 jaw chuck is just very accurate. I would have to use a 4 jaw chuck to make sure the center hole is concentric to the sides.
Balance was also off as soom as Abom started facing because of the 3 small balancing holes on the face side started being erased.
Perhaps a lighter wheel makes balancing less critical for the customer too.
not easy to rebalance, @18:34 you can see/hear its a bit off-center. Rebalancing would require a lot to get it right again. But by losing 1/3rd of the weight, the issue will probably be a lot less.
Balance will be off enough to kill bearings in 10-15k miles, not a problem in 'racer' engine that is ragged to death, or crashed, long before that. Nice and true running mass of flywheel with magnets off by good 1-3 mm(40-120 thou) would need even more balancing holes drilled than 3lb heavier one. Non concentric mass is now higher fraction of whole rotating mass. Nicely done weight reduction but should be followed by balancing to be roadworthy.
It was on t' piss from the factory, Adam's machining work far outdoes them, but it'll still need balancing because of A. All the other wonky factory machining he didn't touch and B. Any porosity or just general density variations within the bar stock. Can't get around these things :/
Nice mod and thanks for the video
good to see ya bud
Your nickname is now "Quick Draw McGraw" for the fasted setter upper. One hit with the homemade lead hammer and "BAM" quick draw gets er done. I know that's Keiths little saying but it fits here as well.
I like Quick Draw McGraw! Thats what my dad always said when threading.
nice work bro
I'm just curious Adam...and I sure hope I don't touch upon a sore spot. I'm sure you know just how much everyone who is worth a damn loves your videos, shucks, we even love you personally! With that said, who in the heck gives a thumbs down on a nice and mellow video like this? You share your time and effort and show people a few things along the way, so I don't understand the negativity?
I know, and am proud of the fact, that we live in a free country where you can express your opinions without fear of repercussion, but I guess I will never understand a person going out of their way to knock someone's efforts at goodwill and sharing when they can just move along. Why not just go on your way and watch something else?
Huh...I'm sorry to bring up the lonely little hater and his one tiny thumbs down. Like I said in the beginning, I'm sure you know the people that matter think very highly of you. You are one heck of a nice and intelligent guy!
Just poking through your archives looking for some shots of tool angles to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong when I saw the blemish. Nothing a little emery cloth won't polish away, he he.
Aloha...Chuck.
Thanks for the nice comments. Every video has thumbs down, and there's people out there for whatever reason always have something they don't like about a video. Who's knows what there reason is, could be they dissagree with my technique, I talk too much, I'm boring, or they just think the video sucks.
I have learned to ignore the thumbs down. Everyone gets them, no matter how awesome a video is.
No matter how much you guys enjoy my work and what I show you I do for a living, someone out there will disagree with something, and a few give the thumbs down for that.
But hey, thanks for all of YOUR continued support.
Adam
My pleasure Adam, my pleasure. I guess guys like us were raised in the old fashioned way. I find it much easier to just click on something else to watch than to poke holes in someone's video. That is part of what I love about the loyal group that has been so welcoming and helpful to me here. There is just so much old fashioned support and camaraderie, it gives hope that the world isn't really falling apart like the news would have us believe ;).
Aloha my man...Chuck
+Knolltop Farms 8 out of 1107 total aint shit... calm down
I've had a few thumbs down on my videos. I learned that a few of them were simply because of the fact they were firearm related. Aside from the one person that actually admitted to that, you never know why they give you a thumbs down.
I have been thinking about getting a lathe to tinker with and found this video highly informative. I have an old honda CB 550 and am wondering if this mod would help save fuel, as in mpg. Thanks for the post Adam.
Nice work there Adam. My instructor said you were really good. He's right, Jim
Hey Adam,
Why not use a expanding mandrel or make one and turn between centers?
Good job.
Ppl commenting about the balancing after turning. I've often found that a lightened flywheel thats been turned on a lathe will be pretty balanced. Especially on cast flywheels. You can see how out of true it was when Adam touched off the face of the flywheel and the outer radius. Turning it centered and square in the lathe will improve the balance.
You could see on the second face that there was runout. So it was possibly out of balance again after the diet.
Nice! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🌸
Very cool Adam, you're probably sick and tired of being asked the balancing question and I read a lot of the comments in this video and your patient repeated answer "The balancing is handled by the bike shop" but you showed us your persicion toller jig to check the balance and trueness of a shaft a few weeks ago, are you not curious about using it to check the balancing? I know I am and the bonus would be we get to see that tool in pratical use!
One last question, I've started to watch videos and read the interweeb on identifying alloys, you mention that this metal is pretty hard (and it sure does look like it in the video). Any pointers how you would go about determining the alloy of that flywheel? Not looking at the actual alloy but the process you would use to determine it. Curious mind want to know.
As always, we are very fortunate that you take the time to PRODUCE these videos. Filming the job is the easy part, you must spend ridiculous time on post production - THANKS for that.
Take care from Cold Canada where it's -10°F and getting another foot of snow tomorrow.
Nice work Adam, I'm going to have to look how that flywheel is used in the Triumph. Do yourself a favor and make up a little sketch and throw it in a binder. That binder will be very useful in 10 years.
Good tips Bill! its always great when you have sketches and notes on repeat jobs.
3 lb doesn't sound like much, but the further out it sits on the work piece - the more effect it has in reducing this thing's moment of inertia (which is what we want) so I'd say that's pretty awesome! Before starting on this though I'd ask the customer about any load bearing features on the item and treat them very gently, and with massive radii nearby to prevent fatigue cracks. I'm guessing however that anything that takes any actual load is on the inner side of the flywheel, those fingers look like they could be clutch engagement, but they're spaced far too irregularly for that, so my guess would be they work with a Hall effect sensor for engine timing
The starter sprague clutch and gear mounts to the back of the flywheel on most motorcycles. The ridges are timing marks picked up by the bikes ignition sensors. There is no physical engagement of the flywheel on another part to impart load. It spins around the stator that is mounted on the engine case cover to generate AC electricity which the bikes regulator/rectifier turns into safe levels for "12V DC" system.
Don't they need to be balanced again after you've taken off a lot of the balancing holes and changed the geometry? And wouldn't it be better to finish those steps with a radius fillet for strength?
That's the first thing I thought, too.
Doesn’t matter, the customer only asked to make it lighter. It’s not Adam job to question what they want.
lighter weight is easier to balance so put this on a motorcycle wheel balancer and then drill some holes..
my first thought as well. that balance was for standard use, if anything, high rpm high performance use would increase the need for balancing. I figure (hope) the motorcycle shop has something in mind for that, and that the actual machining is the part needing done on this stop in its journey.
And what about the two timing marks? Did someone make notes on them too?
What brand of calipers are you using in the video?
Also have you done any CNC work?
nice cool can you do all the milling for creating crankshafts , camshafts , pistons , and valves as well as all the rest of the internal components of engines and transmissions
The weight of the wheel is critical to what they want the engine to do. Did they experiment with different weights to get the desired results? I guess what I am asking is how did you come up with the formula for the first one? I would figure it was something somebody else did and gave a desired weight to end up at. Keep doing your thing Adam! Single life is best.
Nice work but how do you rebalance it?
Just like Butta!
I am kind of surprised you did not fab up a stub arbor with a threaded center hole & flat washer & bolt the same size as the crank to hold concentrically to the center of the crank. Also since you cut all the balance holes out, how did you rebalance it ? I use balancing wheels when doing racing outboard flywheels Adam . ------> FLYWHEEL BALANCING: The first thing I do is make up a stub shaft to mount the wheel in the lathe. This is done as follows, a piece of stock with a bigger OD then crankshaft is installed in the three jaw chuck face and center drilled for a live center.
Set the compound of the lathe so that it will cut the same angle taper with the compound of the lathe as is on the crank if it is a tapered crank,
cut the taper down until your live center just touches its mating center hole and will allow you to
lock the flywheel on the taper you cut with the compound. Try and keep the shaft short as
possible so the flywheel clears the chuck of the lathe. Take a dial indicator and rotate
the shaft to check for run out of stub shaft. There must be no run out. Mount the flywheel on the fabricated shaft
and lock with the live center on flywheel tight. Check the O.D. of the wheel. My wheel was .030
out of round. A total of .070 was taken off the O.D., .035 off each side to clean up. More can be removed if wanted . After machining re balance turned flywheel on static balance wheels and drill lighting holes as needed to bring in zero spine roll back of flywheel on wheels. -------> cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-yp39j5/4s9liwcv/products/117156/images/297507/WBS-002__49754.1462909489.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
Have you ever lightened car flywheels? I'm thinking on doing one.
do they re-balance these at the shop?
wonder how many cranks they break after putting that on.
Adam,
First, thank you for making these video's. I have watched quite a few of your videos now and find them informative and entertaining. Between yourself, Keith F, Keith R, Doubleboost, mrpete222 and one or two others, I don't think I'll ever have to watch TV again!
One question on this video though. I note you don't ever use carriage or cross slide stops. I would have thought on a job like this flywheel, it would be ideal to use stops so you can come up to exactly the same point for each cut (which you do with your mag-base dial gauge). Is this personal preference, or is there a technical reason for this?
Cheers,
Brad
I have got a 139QMB 50cc flywheel don't know how much to take off 100g or 150g what do you think thanks.
4:00 - This bloke is good!
Hi sir I have some questions to ask drag racing crankshaft should be heavy or light for 2 Stroke and 4 stroke both can you suggest me right way to do this please help me give me some tips!
No concerns about balancing it again? I have a flywheel I want to lighten but I have been hesitating to do so because I am not sure how to check the balance afterwards.
Also, you took off the timing marks on the outside. Might be worth noting them so that you can re-scribe them afterwards?
i wish i could see this on the bike, to see the results on how crisper the throttle is?
Hi Adam
With the 3 balancing drillings on the back of the flywheel being turned off does it need re-balancing after the turning?
The balancing is handled by the bike shop.
how many parts have you "tossed" for your machines IE they fly out?
That's quick work but nice bread and butter stuff for you. :-)
Oh yea, its a quick job for me. Ive done so many I've got it down.
The most effective way to reduce inertia in a flywheel is by removing mass further away from the center axis.
Of course, don’t make it too thin anywhere.