Why Lipo C Rating DOES Matter! ZOP 40C Vs CNHL 100C - 1500mAh 3s
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ส.ค. 2021
- If You Don't Think The C Rating of a Lipo Matters, watch this CNHL Black Series 100C Lipo hand the ZOP 40C a Big Bag of Lithium Pie! And it's Cheaper!
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A lot of people saying similar things so a little more detail.....
This video was not planned to be a 'Zop Vs CNHL' it was just going to be a 3s Speed Run, but I realised I had the Zop as well so thought I'd give it a test against the CNHL. I'm aware that the Zop at 1500mah 40c should only be good for around 60 amps anyway, and I pushed it further than that. But regardless it 'should' be able to out perform a 2s Run by more than a few MPH. The CNHL is cheaper than the Zop, and the quality is clearly better. Is 40c Vs 100c a fair comparison side by side?.... probably not, but you can see the huge difference it makes using a better matched/suited Lipo for the electronics.
A few are saying they have had no issues with their Zops, and I am sure that's correct, but I am almost sure you'll see a performance increase with a better quality Lipo. I got 61 mph from my Vorteks with a CNHL, and have seen others get Mid 50's on lesser Lipos. I've also done lots of testing on some Tamiya speed runs years ago, and the difference in performance can be quite surprising.
Anyway.... hopefully this video has helped some of you understand a little more about C Ratings. And as for the ESC... the Motor is capable of pulling more than 60 amps..and the cNHL Lipo is capable of delivering more... so the poor ESC had no chance :)
I'll get a 3s 100C Zop and check my 'assumption'. And later on in the week I have another 'told you so video' with my FTX DR8, I'm sure that will ruffle a few feathers haha
Phill putting the wrongs right ✅
It's not that the Zop battery is necessarily bad, so to speak. It's that there are better "bang for your buck" options out there, and if someone is unwilling to see the value in spending 10 to 25% more money to get 50 to 100% more performance, they will never see the difference until a video like this is made. Then add in the value of how many more charge cycles can be put through a better quality battery before it's in a completely dead state and having to replace them less often. I don't know if you are familiar with Joshua Bardwell over on the FPV side of the RC hobby, but this guy does extensive battery testing and has spent thousands of dollars on the equipment to do so, taking out the variable of "your RC has different electronics than mine so it's going to perform differently" or "the conditions (weather, terrain, etc.) were different". If you are interested in objective battery testing results, it's worth checking him out. His TH-cam channel is simply his name.
@@mikeoleksa His Channel is the reason I bought the CNHL Black Series ;)
I wonder if the white wrap and black wrapped ZOP Power batteries means anything different? Yeah maybe nowadays ZOP has been pushed aside by other companies as their is always something better out their.
Seems like the CHNL are really good high discharge batteries 🔋 Id like to try it out but I feel it would stress the granite ESC rated for 100C so HRB 50C for me lol
Much love
Cheers 🍻
All I will say is that for a 3s battery to give similar results as a 2s, it's voltage would have to sag to a similar level. Even a cheap pack shouldn't sag to 3 volts per cell or lower when doing speed runs on smooth ground. Sounds more like a faulty pack than a lack of punch to me.
The current draw of a motor decreases as the RPM increases and brushless motors are more efficient than brushed. The pack would have to be something like 5c
I've never used ZOP but I've used comparably cheap brands like Floureon and I've never seen such a woeful performance.
I’m having flashbacks with that esc catching on fire lol. I can’t believe the difference in power. That’s cool that you had two batteries with the same mah to conduct that test accurately. Thanks for another great episode.
I have a ZOP 3s 6000mAh at 100c lipo battery.
Not had any problems with it so far, but it is the first 3s I have, was running a 2s at 25c before. The difference between the 2 are completley night and day.
Loving ya work.....love watchin your videos (learn so much from your video's)
I also run a D7 and agree it doesn’t get much love. It’s big enough to race over most surfaces and pretty quick for a cheap, stock beast. It does handle like poo though, so that may be a reason why people stay away; but for the money it’s pretty ace and the livery is cool. After seeing this I might go buy parts to tighten it up and drop in a waterproof brushless combo
That’s a huge difference, the good battery makes the cheap battery look like it’s not even charged. I don’t know a lot about the Lipo batteries so that’s good information to know . Good video Phil .
I’ll be doing a Lipo video soon
My friend i had i purchased the same motor ESC combo and the out come was no different . Converted my Typhon Mega brushed to brushless. Was out running it on some dirt trails and it caught fire , the smoke show was entertaining to say the least , although in its defense , i did push it pretty hard . The motor on the hand is pretty impressive , its fast , runs fairly cool , and has more then enough torque , that is with a better quality ESC .
I also used a higher c grade lipo on mine, it also ruined my esc😆 CHNL batts are on sale now. Thanks Tomley👍😊👍
yes C rating does matter! higher c is more punchy but less play time. lower c is less punchy but more playtime
Wow what a massive difference between the two batteries every one should take note and buy better As always your video's are awesome cheers
I got a 4000mah 4s as one of my first batteries for racing 1/8 scale and I must say it was one of my most powerful and low IR packs that I had for awhile. After I got some proper 4s lipo. I kept it and let a buddy use it and he somehow cut every balance wire while it was in his car 😢 but it would get 10 mins in a main. And had a lot of punch I can't remember the c rating but it was like like 40 or 50 or less. Cool video 👍
Thanks for sharing this info. The right battery sure makes a difference. I like how your WLtoys does a willy and stays nice and straight on the road. 👍
Great vid Phil, for folks like me its another lesson I don't have to learn in regards to batteries, I know there's lots of guys who will debate with you all day long with tech stuff but for the beginners etc its a bonus. I did get a couple of Zop for my 144001 for example, 1 pack was already swollen on delivery and the other in my own experience has been pretty poor when i started getting better batteries (mainly hardcase). Keep up the great work buddy.
Glad it helped Phil. I prefer doing some real world simple testing rather than getting too technical
This was both informative and fun to watch lol!! I am glad I check the C rating on any new battery that I buy, this confirms it!!!
the number of C is totally wrong
I've been running CNHL Black 40C 5000mah 6S packs in my maxx with a castle MMX/1515 2200kv, 21/50 gearing and backflip lp's. So far, they have done really well. I also have a liperior 65C 6S pack that I built out of a couple 3S packs. It performs equally well in it. I got the CNHL's 40C 6S 5000mah packs for $38 a piece a month ago and have run 4-5 cycles through all 4 of them since. I've also run them in my outcast 6S with a max6/rocket 4092 1650kv in it without issue. I had a hard time finding 6S packs that were narrow enough to fit in the maxx battery tray, don't know why they made it so anemic. The HCG slash chassis I put on my stampede has wider and longer battery tray in it than the maxx does.
Very informative video. This was exactly what I needed to answer my question as I'm new to LiPos. Had a couple of nitros but haven't had an electric in a very long time. One question I have is where you store your batteries? I keep reading about battery fires and not to store in the garage, but I'm nervous about storing in the house.
Just the video I needed thanks tomley
Had the same thing got a good deal on two turnigy graphene 90c 2s packs and they so much more punch than the florean 50c 3s packs they were replacing! Zip tie miracle fix too the rescue! 😁👍
Yes, always a good feeling when you find a decent battery 😎👌
That night and day transition was 👌
Hence the reason I use a lower C rated Turnigy battery for Crawlers but something with a 70+ C rating for my Buggie & Truggies etc another great vid 😎
Yes, some applications don’t need a high discharge rate
Yea it matters. Supposedly on the WLTOYS 144001 esc, you can run them on 3s as long as it's 25c or less. I tried mine with a 50C and it didn't burn up right away so that's a good sign.
I've already replaced the stock esc though. Got an 80a brushless esc on the way.
Hi Tomley... After watching another TH-camr I tried a zop lipo 5500 60c in my granite....the performance and run time was absolutely dreadful thery really are crap..so now , like for a long time I use Zeee lipos in all my RC cars and planes,.. simply brilliant , and like you said the difference is night and day..👍🇬🇧😎
Good to hear Mark. I’m not a fan of Zop as you could probably tell lol
🙏Yes, that's exactly why I love CNHL, you know what you are getting.
Isn't it mah X c rating = amps.
1500mah 1.5x40=60amp 1.5x100=150amp which is ok if you have a high burst amp draw say 60amp with burst of 180amp but I bet that ESC is 60 amp with bust amp of 80a So yeah it's kind of important to match your battery with your system.
I was just about to say the same thing.
There's also the fact that the motor and load it's under dictates the current draw, the battery just supplies it. But a weak battery might limit the system.
A lot of name brand 60a ESCs have a recommended limit of around 3300KV for 3s. This system is over that so it could simply be that the battery with the higher c rating is allowing the motor enough current to burn the ESC out whereas the lower c, while probably pushing things wasn't quite powerful enough.
It's normally recommended to have more than enough current available but if you're running outside of specs (which I presume this setup is when running 3s) then a weaker battery might buy you a little headroom.
Actually, watching the video again, for a 3s pack to sag so much that the top speed is worse than a 2s pack, there must surely be something wrong with it. Even a weak 3s pack should be able to muster up more voltage than a 2s pack. For a 3 pack to drop that low something other than c rating must be wrong. Current draw is high when you first pull away and stab the throttle but going along at top speed is less demanding.
@@ValleyRC I'm fairly new to electric so don't have a complete understanding of it yet but I was under the impression that the motor draws voltage while the ESC pushes amps and over supplying amps from the battery makes the ESC run hot and under supplying amps from the battery makes the battery get hot.
I have seen some 60a systems have a stupidly high burst rating of 380a for 10 seconds so I assume those ones don't really suffer as much with over amping. If I'm wrong I'm eager to learn.
@@jayhow997
The current draw depends on the voltage and the load put on the motor. The more load, the higher the current draw. The motor will draw much less current with the wheels in the air than it will with the wheels on the ground and much more going up a hill compared to going along a flat surface etc.
But the voltage affects draw too, all else being equal. If you add another cell, you're asking the motor to do the same work at a higher RPM which requires more current to achieve.
If you wire a motor up on the bench and run it at max RPM with no load, the current draw will be higher on 3s than on 2s because even with no load, the extra voltage is making the motor spin faster which requires more current.
But with either battery, if you were to squeeze the motor shaft as it was spinning, that would also make the current draw rise sharply but the motor running on 3s would have a greater overall RPM so would need more current.
The ESC determines the voltage going to the motor and then the motor itself determines current draw depending on both it's RPM and the amount of load it encounters.
So the ESC won't push amps into the motor but if you were running a motor that was drawing more current than the ESC is capable of then the ESC will burn out.
One way this can happen is by going from a 2s to a 3s on a system only meant for 2s.
For example, on an RC car, increasing the voltage and keeping everything else equal will in fact increase the load of the motor as well. This occurs as you are demanding the motor turn the same load but at higher RPM’s.
Imagine for examples sake, you have a setup where no matter how hard you thrash it, the current draw only ever reaches 70% of what the ESC can handle. Now take the same system and change from a 2s to a 3s battery then go out and drive it the same way. The extra voltage means the motor can go at a much higher RPM but to achieve that while hauling the same load means more current has to be consumed. Your setup may now be exceeding the limits of the ESC.
HRB batteries i love. The 2200mah 50C are awesome in the WLToys 12402-a and fits amazing in the battery mount!
Fantastic and enjoyable as always.
Thanks Mark
Great video. Sorry for the beginner questions. I am looking to buy a HBX 901a, which comes with 1 battery. I was going to get a couple of extras and I've seen some Urgenex 1600mah 2s 35C. I believe 35C is close to the supplied battery, if anyone could confirm that, it would great. What would happen if I got some CNHL 1300mah 2s 100C Lipos? Is it safe to use a much higher C rated battery? Will the ESC only draw what it needs safely rather than the lipo dumping more and burning the ESC? sorry, I'm new to all of this and my electrical knowledge is lacking..TIA
Nice video! This is exactly why I came here as I did a search for this topic. But what about brands who aren't honest with their C rating? This video obviously proves the other brand, with a higher C rating is superior btw!
But then Traxxas lipos all seem to have a very low C rating vs. other brands. Is this b/c they are a true rating, maybe even conservative? I'm trying to find this out. Having said that, I own SMC True Spec lipos for my X-Maxx 8S and they have been AWESOME! My speed runs are generally faster than others (with proof btw) and now they are 3 1/2 years old, have slowed down a little and even a little puffy but the cells still all balance at 4.20V after a full charge! So I'm trying to decide if I should stick with the SMC brand, which has been a great battery so far, or should I give Traxxas lipos a try for my new UDR? The reason I'm thinking about Traxxas lipos is they have a 1 year replacement warranty for all their lipo batteries and/or Power Up Program for any lipo over 1 year...they let you replace it at 50% off, no questions asked. A lot of people don't know this about them. Hmmmmm, decisions...
Even with the stock motor + 3S, this thing is wicked fast!
The CNHL batteries are very good. I tried their supersmall 1000mAh 2S drone batteries on my MT10 and it ran just like on any other much larger 2S battery I have. Obviously not for very long due to the capacity but holy hell do they give them amps. I was thinking running a few in parallel since they are like 5 euros per battery:D
As someone who uses Larger FPV drones, the disscussion on C rating is often that it can never be trusted as "honest" even on high end Lipo's.I guess At the end of the day "you get what you pay for", CHL blacks are Fantastic, CHL whites are also fantastic, and I honestly cant tell the difference other than the blacks are more "consistant" between Packs. I honestly think the blacks are the best power/quality/Price you can get.
Man, I gave away my D7 the other week. This video made me regret it a little lol. Great vid as always 👍🏼
Oh... bad times!
that truck is cool but that smoke show was even better bud 😀👍
I’ve always gotten slightly higher speeds with higher c ratings. I guess the real test would be to run the test with Brand new, same brand batteries, with different C ratings and same capacity size! 😂🤣 great mad science Phil!
The weight of a battery is usually a good indication, from experience normally the heavier the battery the better it is, internal resistance plays a part as well.
Yes agree... my multimeter is broken so could test them
@@TomleyRC in racing I never actually bother checking them anymore I just go with when they start to lose punch. I race in the modified class so battery is mostly just a weight but in stock racing it's crucial. I've used Intellect based batteries for years now but they don't seem to be interested into getting into the non racing side although they are one of the largest RC lipo manufactures so probably supply other companies.
@@TomleyRC Many chargers read internal resistance.
@@Luke-en2tk had used intellect 4400mah also for a race buggy but gone the cheap way to get practice batterys chnl 4000mah cant say a feel a differance in power but got twice the amount of battery packs for the same cost as a intellect pack.
Better is subjective for me the highest power output in the lowest density is better
Very interesting. I must admit that I have a couple of 2S ZOP LiPos which are pretty underwhelming.
I suppose the answer is to buy from a reputable hobbyshop, and not from the cheapest seller on ali express!
Yes, I’ve had a few bad Lipos. Always worth looking around and CNHL so far have really impressed me
Would be great to get a video on your experiences of different batteries and any recommended brands. Perhaps some info on calculating the amps drawn from battery and motor combo so you know if it’s going to kill your esc etc.
That night and day difference effect 😁
Wltoys are really under rated I love my 124019 not much of its stock now tho then I doubt there are many stock ones about, I did get some of them zop lipo's after seeing a good review about them but after using them they were no good my boy uses them in his wpl but thats about all there good for I think the gens ace bashing battries are the best in my opinion awesome video as always Phil 👍
That song at the end
Love it. Good value too.
I learned my lesson the hard way, never again! RIP esc. :pours one out for the fallen soldier: also, I love that little truck!
Nice that you demonstrate the actual meaning of the C ratings, but I think that doesn't justify bad mouthing the lo-end battery that you picked. They (Zop) have a high discharge line also, +100C etc. Great video anyways, as always :)
Unfortunately I have learned the hard way about batteries spend a little more coin get the better battery its worth it great video thank you for your content and commitment to the hobby great info
Yes... although the CNHL range are pretty cheap but out perform most others that are double the price
@@TomleyRC I just ordered a few to check them out I appreciate your feedback
As Jim Carey Would've said - SMooK-IN - Love the Video Tomley :-))- oh and FYI Tomley Im Maltese And you Know What " Z O P " means Dont ya - He he he he he , Ill let you work it out but i was chuckleing each time you said it like a skool kid in the Lunchline at Buy-Up. ha ha ha ha
Hahahaha just checked
I have a zop power Lipo the same as yours and it actually performs really well and I like because it is cheap just saying and by the way love the content 😁👍
Yeah, I guess it depends what you are running them in. I just didn’t get on with them
Yeah 👍
Interesting comparison. For the UK people on here you are probably looking around 20 days from order to delivery for CNHL or at least it was that for me recently. Worth the wait imo
Definitely worth the wait. Usually order in bulk
I bought a CNHL 3s 120C for the Arrma vendetta, I'm new to this hobby, I hope that battery works well and doesn't burn the ESC 😜😂
I'm so glad I got that Cnhl batt. Soooomuch power.
hi sir? i have a question, if i want to upgrade my 104009 to brushless is there the same way as the upgrade for this model? can you tell me what spec is suitable for me to upgrade? tq sir👍
serpent spyder Mt2 unboxing please!!!! I'm asking every rc platform until someone says yes lol btw good vid and info as always
Will these cnhl 2s batteries be good. In my xlh 9125 or my bezgar 7. Rc one has a 1500mah other users 1000mah standard lipo that came. Thanks
Venom 3s lipo batteries are great for these smaller cars. I use them for my HBX 16889 cars. Tons of juice and life.
Do they still sell the cnhl 1500 mah 3s battery ? I cant find it need one for my new 124016 v2. Thanks for the video thats impressive.
2:15 I have a 3S 5000mAh ZOP Power (from AliExpress) in my Slash 2wd and its working great for 2-3 years now, it has been laying for a while because I paused the RC hobby. Now it has like 20-30 charge cycles on it and the cells are at 001, 002, 001 mΩ
I use cnhl on my quads. I've been really happy with them.
so my rc car has a warning saying that it can only run batteries less than or equal to 25c, why is that warning there, can i run a higher C rating battery even though the car warns me against it? if i run a higher C rating will a smoke my power system?
Yes some cars can really go so much faster with a higher C rating. Some cars you can notice a huge difference and others not so much. The Fieyue FY-08 I have usually uses its 1500mAh Li-ion battery. But when I use a 1500mAh 20C li-po it is a little faster. Then I put in a 2600 60C Li-po I have and on take off it does wheel stands down the road. It ended up ripping it's mud flaps off.
Yes... it can make a huge difference!
@@TomleyRC what's the best 2s lipo battery?
I just ordered my first wltoys, 124018. But I almost got that one. I like that body style better than the new truck so I'll probably still get one.
Yes, this ones a cool looking truck
Where do you get the better battery from and how much are they if you can in US dollars.
Your laugh when it went up 😂 then your blatant mucking around to really finish it. Brilliant entertainment mate watched every second. Slop haha I call them hop because you ain't running fast.
Hahahahaha... I was hoping for Fire!
I think unless you are racing, longevity is far more important than power. How was run time on each battery?
Hi, do you have an alternative to the CNHL? With the same parameters?
How would I go about making my 16101 pro going way faster? I want to use 3s but I know my esc will fry
That was an interesting fiery end lol
Great video, C does matter.
More weight on the front would help with the wheely's
Was that using XT60 or XT90 connectors?
I've never noticed any difference with c rating and most companies just make up the c rating anyway
I'm sure I saw a video where Martyn gave you some Turnigy Rapids (before you had some of your own)... and whatever car you were running instantly had more power/speed than the Zops you were running? I think most manufacturers 'exaggerate' the C Rating the same as most do for Top Speeds.
@@TomleyRC go look at rcgroups where the guys have been testing batteries in the battery load test comparisons; 45-50C is the highest performing batteries. C rating makes a huge difference, but knowin what the battery is actually capable of is anyones guess until you do an actual load test
What C rating battery would u use for the dfr drifter u got??
I’ve used ZOP in drones but with RC cars CNHL ROCKS!!! Everyone is using them in speed runs! 👍🏻
thank you.
Yeah, the difference is brutal! 😂
CNHL batteries are great. But there are even better ones! Can you imagine that? 😂
Great run there, Tomley!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice Video. I just recently bought a 12402A just last week.. Can I ask why you change to a different wheels and tires? Is it because the stock tires and rims rubs on the body? Thanks.
if i recall from video a while back ,it was just a look thing, not rubbing..i also bought 12402a and it is in the delivery system..you might need to upgrade to oil shocks as stock ones are not that good, got mine from aliexpress
Well the ESC still burn if it has overload protection? I ask because I have a 60 amp ESC on one of my WL toys and I run 3S all the time and I've never had a problem with it but it also could be because the ESC that I use has over voltage protection but I'm not sure if that's what stops it from blowing
It all depends on the motor and gearing as well. I pushed this a little far. I’ve had lots of 60A ESC’s and if you run them sensibly they are fine
@@TomleyRC thanks for the response
you`ve convinced me to get a wltoys rc
which one I still don`t know =)
🤟
Lmao that had me laughing so dam hard ... I think I pee'd a little ..shit!
Epic smoke!
That’s mental the power of that and in the words of the mask “SMOKING”!!!! 😂 all good fun tho,I mean who doesn’t enjoy a good burn out from time to time. 👏
Interesting vid! I have to wonder if the Zop pack is faulty. To only achieve the same speed as the 2s pack, the average voltage per cell would have to be below 3 volts. I don't think they are capable of that level of incompetence without having a fault. I wonder if one or more cells has abnormally high internal resistance or something? I normally only see that kind of sag in packs made from vape cells.
Balanced ok and cells were stable. I just think they over rate them... probably more like 20C than 40
40c 1500mah is only 48 amps output. It's not that much from a little bitty 1500mah. More mah and 40c is respectable, but down in the lower digits 40c is... not enough for this application, me thinks. Also that whole "fudging the numbers" bit... so that's a good chunk of C just gone from the start.
I lit a hobbywing 60a ESC on fire yesterday. Never even touched the throttle. It popped the second I flipped the power switch with a 3s battery connected.
Strange from Hobbywing, they are usually ok
I had a wltoys 144001 550 brushed motor in the truck... The capacitor on the rear of the motor exploded so I suspect that it was the problem.
U needa make a long drag wheelie bar
I used the zop batteries in 4s form when I was flying drones and they felt like decent battery's that took a real battering!
I guess some are good, some are bad
@@TomleyRC well ZOP Power does make higher C rated 3S Lipo batteries as well right I’d bet their high rated batteries would stack up as well if you tested that.
Best example is I also run 3S lipo 50c in my Granite and it’s a beast, I’d bet if I maxed out my ESC at 100c it wouldn’t be an absolute animal...but not for long right.
Maybe ZOP Power isn’t as good as quality as some but hard too tell I only have used their 1S with higher C rating for my planes and they definitely have a little more bunch than the standard Banggood 1S battery.
Dang man she went up in smoke 100C constant on 60amp equals no more but what a standing back flip brother !
So far the new WLtoys looks cool but like always slow and now a blast out of the box like Arrma’s and Traxxas...
I wonder why WLtoys just doesn’t do even the basic brushless like SG does I love that little SG1602 pro for same price point so come on WLtoys get with the 21st century and go Brushless unless it’s a good Crawler in my humble opinion I think they would sell boat lots more if they made the switch
I used them and they were horrible, gave out really quick and had a terrible c rating
Need to get zop 100c before u beat them up useing batt thats less than half the output ratting that’s like diff between aaa & D batt ?
Add an inline mini fuse to the esc keeps it from blowing up and saves money
I think it's very important to include a little disclaimer about C ratings. Every brand is vastly different when it comes to C ratings because of the lack of regulation, and so comparing a 40C of one brand to a 100C of another brand really doesn't mean a whole lot. It's all about the honesty of each brand. I like to look for the lowest and highest C rating claimed by any brand I'm interested in, and that will give me a gauge of the quality of each battery. E.g. if there's a 20C, 40C, and 60C offering, I'll know the 40C is not their worst but also not their best, regardless of the true C rating.
Yes true… this video was not planned to be about C ratings. I’ll be doing a specific Lipo one soon
finaly I got same situation!!
I agree you do make a good video that is interesting to watch. the problem is that if you title a vid as one thing you should do what it's title claims. I'm an electrical engineer that worked for a major NASA contractor just so you understand why I'm a little rough on you.
The big problem is that the majority of your viewers are absolutely clueless about batteries and will believe anything published. You can buy batteries that will make the CHNL batteries look like their junk also. You are right about the C ratings being mostly factory hype, but within it's own brand the C rating will be a reference for their brands quality but will not help you to chose a battery of a different brand. The "C" ratings all are a joke .
If you had run your test on the batteries on their first cycle your test would have been a little closer with results. The chemicals on the ZOP are only good for about 10 cycles then they are just junk. Likewise the CHNL would not hold up against some of the better brands.
It would have been a really informational vid if both batteries with the same cycles were tested, it would get your point across with some validity. Anyway the C rating is just a reference as to the current at which they begin to leak or explode. It has nothing to do with the quality of the material just how well they are wrapped.
Keep your vids coming as they are better than most
Would think if you show up at a RC barbeque, you'd at least have some heatresistant gloves so you can pull off the ESC once its cooked to your liking, so the grill doesnt get damaged. :D
what's a good 4x4 off road Rc under 100, that's also pretty fast
I'm no expert but my understanding is this: C rating does matter if the bottleneck on your setup is the ability to draw power from the battery. You also need to bear in mind what your ESC is rated to handle (eg, 60A) and how fast your motor is. Too low a C rating and you can damage the capacitors on your ESC over time,... too high a C rating and a high Kv motor will cook your ESC quick by drawing too much from the battery (some of which will be converted into heat). It comes down to understanding your setup which is part of the fun of the hobby for me. Side note as well: don't always trust the C rating printed on the side of batteries. Cheap brands or well-used/mistreated batteries can have (usually) lower values than they claim.
Crazy how much different there is. Is there as much different on cnhl and much more expensive brands?
Lucky your esc smoked outside, mine smoked indoors the smell you will never forget, save the fan and wires before the bin 😝👍🏻
My Garage smelt for quite a few days lol
Off topic, but that's a nice GR Yaris
Thanks Robb
Great. I just ordered two zop batteries few days ago🙄
Kinsa confused here phil. Question? Uhm so yeah that 60 amp esc is suppose to just get 60 amps from the battery how did it "overload"? is its not limited to 60 amps? Its "RATED" for 60 amps? So its not suppose to run beyond that?
so what im guessing
Both 3s lipo
40c vs 100c (both 1500mah)
40c x 1.5A lipo max can give 60amps
While
100c x 1.5A can give 150amps(too much) = burned esc?
hopefully you will notice this!
Merry christmas!
I got a Slop Power for my Rival mate and the difference between that and the Gens Ace that I now have is quite incredible... Never buy them again... 😂🤣
I have good luck with CNHL. I think the C rating is up a little but they take a beating and run a very long time in my boats vs like a spectrum even.
Would love to see ZOP 100C up against CHNL 40C to see if the manufacturer of LiPos makes any difference or if it’s JUST the C rating. Why? Well…. I was considering buying a ZOP but feel I should hold off now. Recommendations? P.S. Looling for the fastest 3S for a stock 124107 v2. Thanks!
Unless you are buying high end batteries the c rating is BS, along with the mah rating. Only way to really know is to buy a good charger and test them yourself.
I use core-rc 2s 30/60c 4000 mAHr 7.4 v 29.6 wh batteries
They are starting to come out with brushless models now.
All well n good but if you cant hit full throttle what good is it?
It’s no good… not for this RC anyway 😅
C rating means alot. If you have your amp draw right on the motor and the gearing right. The c rating can make a difference the power out put of the pack can effect the performance of the motor. Iv seen the difference in my 1/8 on 4s with a 40 c and 120c. The numbers inside the cells make a difference like the internal resistance
The problem is theres really not a 100c lipo even though they stamp it on the pack. High C ratings are just a markening gimick to get people to buy there packs. You be lucky if thats just a 40c lipo
That might be true to a point if ran 50c in my buggy then 100c I can see the difference. In performance right away the punch the snap it had the bottom end. Its like going from 87 to 100 octane or nitro. But it depends on what batteries your buying and from who... max amps batteries are the best on the market. GENS Ace redline they are becoming more popular now. Really holding up to there name now. Most every body at our track now are running them.
Try some of there bashers packs buy Gens Ace