They are all I’ve been flying lately. Great price and great performance. Pulled over 200 amps out of my LiperiAir 6s 5000mAh yesterday back to back flights and barely warm.
My Spektrum 3s 300mah batteries have 30-40 millohm resistance right out the box, but never had any issues with them and they've been very well used. I read somewhere (no idea of it's true) that smaller capacity batteries will have higher internal resistance, but yeah, who knows.
I have had nine of them total and I have two left. They have a really high internal resistance and my biggest issue with them is they have all drained themselves to 1 Volt. They self discharge all the way down and I just think it’s a waste of money for their batteries.
Thank you! I hope the video was informational and helpful. I can definitely do that, a rule of thumb is 3C max for a safe charge rate and longevity. Of course you can go higher, but that is taking a risk.
Fantastic content as always Jeff - you cover the essential elements that nobody else does! When parallel charging multiple cells at the same time do we multiply the amperage by the number of cells? 1000mah cells @ 1amp x5 so 5 amps? Thanks!
Thank you! I try to cover and explain as much as I can. I wanted to touch on parallel charging but forgot. Yes! So if your charging 5 1000mAh battery’s you set your charger to 5a. If your charging 5 5000mAh battery’s you will set to 25a and so on.
Thank you for the helpful info. Ive been out of the hobby for a long time. I have lipos that are puffy and need to be thrown out. What’s the best way to do this? Thank you!
Thank you for watching! I greatly appreciate it. There is two safe and super effective ways to do it. One, use saltwater (from the ocean or for a saltwater fish tank) put in a bucket and drop the battery/battery’s in. Less then 24hr later they will be at 0v and you can toss them in the trash. Two, use a 12v light bulb and plug it into the battery and let it drain till it’s at 0v and toss it in the trash.
I have only tried one or two hoovoo batteries. But that was a little while ago I need to order some and give them another chance. HRB packs are great for the money and MainaX Is fantastic!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I murdered my grammar and spelling on that last post. I’m glad you understood what I was saying 😂 I run the hoovo in my rc boats. Decent run time, no bad overheating issues, they are three years old and still no problems. 👍🏻
Hi, i have a 1300 mah battery and it is rated 30 C. Which means it can provide 39 A of continuous current. But i am using a 50 A esc and my brushless motor only draws 17 Amps maximum. Am i safe to use this setup? and as the esc has higher amp, will it draw 50a from the battery or will it only draw how much current the motor needs (Which is 17A)?
So the esc can only deliver 50 amps safely and never burn up. Of course it can go higher but you risk burning it. So the motor will pull what it pulls. Meaning the ESC will not limit it to 50a. So if your setup pulls 17 amps then you have nothing to worry about. But you can put that ESC on a motor that pulls 100 amps and it will still pull 100 amps. Yes, that battery will be just fine.
You should check if you can buy a ESR meter made by Wayne Giles. This device measures the internal resistance of a lipo per cell and gives a C rating for the battery. This C rating is a safe value where you can use it at, without damaging it. For instance, a good conditioned HRB 6s 5000 can be used at 23C, the orange ManiaX at 28C. Now here’s the catch. The temperature of the lipo has huge influence on the C rating. Heating it to 45 degrees Celsius will give a higher C rating. My rule off thumb is, outside temp is C rating. So for instance, in my F5J glider, I use a 3s 1000 pack. Cool the C rating is 25C, preheated to 45 degrees, the C rating is 45C.
I’ll have to look into that! I didn’t even know you could buy such a thing. Measuring the internal resistance is done on almost every charger. In today’s market being able to see the true C rating is something that would be great. That is awesome information! Thank you for watching.
C rating usually divided into 2 numbers, rms/peak nominal(continuous)/max(burst) usually indicated by amperage otherwise known as Current, in the Rc world known as “C” Rating for some reason. The first number usually shows current (amps) output without major drops in voltage, the second number usually indicates the burst amp load with sag but the battery can still recover from. I get why this is so confusing, they can’t just call it a batteries amperage or power because mah or ah or amp hours is already used to measure capacity. Think of it like this voltage is the speed of the river, amperage is the width indicated by c rating and the Mah is the reserve of water that you have.
3:15, wrong. The discharge current limit changes based on the SOC of the battery. At 80C you are emptying that pack extremely rapidly which means there is no way in hell you can do an 80C circuit for a "continuous" period of time. It's only 80C at top of SOC and then your battery will start outputting a reduced c rate as the SOC goes to zero. BTW, the word "continuous" is a nonsensical word to use for any battery based voltage source. A battery by definition is a non-continuous energy source.
Just ordered 2 Liperiair 5000 6s packs for my Raw 580. Can't beat the price. Hope there as good as you say. Thanks for the tips
They are all I’ve been flying lately. Great price and great performance. Pulled over 200 amps out of my LiperiAir 6s 5000mAh yesterday back to back flights and barely warm.
I agree with you about the spektrum packs. The few that I've owned had extremely high internal resistance right out of the box.
My Spektrum 3s 300mah batteries have 30-40 millohm resistance right out the box, but never had any issues with them and they've been very well used.
I read somewhere (no idea of it's true) that smaller capacity batteries will have higher internal resistance, but yeah, who knows.
I have had nine of them total and I have two left. They have a really high internal resistance and my biggest issue with them is they have all drained themselves to 1 Volt. They self discharge all the way down and I just think it’s a waste of money for their batteries.
Excellent explanation!!
Thank you! I appreciate that.
Awesome video! You answered every question I had, which was a lot! Lol. Thanks for such an informative vid. I'm subscribing and sharing. 🤙🏼
Thanh you very much! I greatly appreciate the support. I’m glad I was able to answer all your questions in one video!
Great info! Next episode should cover what's the max safest charging rate on some of these as an example. Thanks Jeff!
Thank you! I hope the video was informational and helpful. I can definitely do that, a rule of thumb is 3C max for a safe charge rate and longevity. Of course you can go higher, but that is taking a risk.
Fantastic content as always Jeff - you cover the essential elements that nobody else does! When parallel charging multiple cells at the same time do we multiply the amperage by the number of cells? 1000mah cells @ 1amp x5 so 5 amps? Thanks!
Thank you! I try to cover and explain as much as I can. I wanted to touch on parallel charging but forgot. Yes! So if your charging 5 1000mAh battery’s you set your charger to 5a. If your charging 5 5000mAh battery’s you will set to 25a and so on.
Fabulous Video, Jeff!!
Thank you Larry!
Thanks Jeff ..Good info !!
Thank you for watching!
Another great and invaluable video for new and even old flyers
Thank you! I hope the video was helpful!
And out of all the lipo batteries you have used what percentage has swollen or set on fire
@@adavies-services1113 zero have every caught on fire. Only two or three have swollen after many years.
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you! I’m glad to share what I have learned over the years!
Thank you for the helpful info. Ive been out of the hobby for a long time. I have lipos that are puffy and need to be thrown out. What’s the best way to do this? Thank you!
Thank you for watching! I greatly appreciate it. There is two safe and super effective ways to do it. One, use saltwater (from the ocean or for a saltwater fish tank) put in a bucket and drop the battery/battery’s in. Less then 24hr later they will be at 0v and you can toss them in the trash. Two, use a 12v light bulb and plug it into the battery and let it drain till it’s at 0v and toss it in the trash.
Been having good luck with my hoovoo batteries. Was wondering on the HRB and MainiX so that’s for clarifying that!
I have only tried one or two hoovoo batteries. But that was a little while ago I need to order some and give them another chance. HRB packs are great for the money and MainaX Is fantastic!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I murdered my grammar and spelling on that last post. I’m glad you understood what I was saying 😂
I run the hoovo in my rc boats. Decent run time, no bad overheating issues, they are three years old and still no problems. 👍🏻
Very informative! Just the video I was looking for!
@@rossroedel5280 Thank you for watching! I’m glad this video was helpful!
Hi, i have a 1300 mah battery and it is rated 30 C. Which means it can provide 39 A of continuous current. But i am using a 50 A esc and my brushless motor only draws 17 Amps maximum. Am i safe to use this setup? and as the esc has higher amp, will it draw 50a from the battery or will it only draw how much current the motor needs (Which is 17A)?
So the esc can only deliver 50 amps safely and never burn up. Of course it can go higher but you risk burning it. So the motor will pull what it pulls. Meaning the ESC will not limit it to 50a. So if your setup pulls 17 amps then you have nothing to worry about. But you can put that ESC on a motor that pulls 100 amps and it will still pull 100 amps. Yes, that battery will be just fine.
You should check if you can buy a ESR meter made by Wayne Giles. This device measures the internal resistance of a lipo per cell and gives a C rating for the battery. This C rating is a safe value where you can use it at, without damaging it.
For instance, a good conditioned HRB 6s 5000 can be used at 23C, the orange ManiaX at 28C.
Now here’s the catch. The temperature of the lipo has huge influence on the C rating. Heating it to 45 degrees Celsius will give a higher C rating. My rule off thumb is, outside temp is C rating.
So for instance, in my F5J glider, I use a 3s 1000 pack. Cool the C rating is 25C, preheated to 45 degrees, the C rating is 45C.
I’ll have to look into that! I didn’t even know you could buy such a thing. Measuring the internal resistance is done on almost every charger. In today’s market being able to see the true C rating is something that would be great. That is awesome information! Thank you for watching.
I bought mine years ago. There seems to be a upgraded version at progressiverc sku: AC-ESR2
I have mine since 2014 or so and I wasn’t sure if the meters are still in production. It seems that the current version is the LiPo ESR Meter Mark II.
C rating usually divided into 2 numbers, rms/peak nominal(continuous)/max(burst) usually indicated by amperage otherwise known as Current, in the Rc world known as “C” Rating for some reason.
The first number usually shows current (amps) output without major drops in voltage, the second number usually indicates the burst amp load with sag but the battery can still recover from.
I get why this is so confusing, they can’t just call it a batteries amperage or power because mah or ah or amp hours is already used to measure capacity. Think of it like this voltage is the speed of the river, amperage is the width indicated by c rating and the Mah is the reserve of water that you have.
Nice info for novices in hobby
Thank you, I hope it helps some people.
3:15, wrong. The discharge current limit changes based on the SOC of the battery. At 80C you are emptying that pack extremely rapidly which means there is no way in hell you can do an 80C circuit for a "continuous" period of time. It's only 80C at top of SOC and then your battery will start outputting a reduced c rate as the SOC goes to zero.
BTW, the word "continuous" is a nonsensical word to use for any battery based voltage source. A battery by definition is a non-continuous energy source.
I never expect more than 25c out of any pack
I do just because of the load I pull on them. Some of my packs see 300-400amps. So they are a true test to the C rating.
Just curious. What do you store your battery collection in? Long term, short term?
I’ve got a short on it but I store my packs in a metal cabinet