Here's ten little shop improvement tips that I got from my brother Jan on a recent road trip to Cody Wyoming. Please subscribe & watch my other 650 shop videos.
I just love that TH-cam has brought fine legacies like Mr. Pete. These kind of classes are disappearing from schools so it is nice that this kind of wisdom has a place.
+Brian Donahue I agree! I was on the fence about getting some machinery until I found Mr. Pete's channel several years ago...now I have two lathes, a mill and a couple of welders..and the confidence and knowledge to use them...thanks Mr. Pete, so much.
Mr. Pete, Good tips from Cody! One tip I picked up you didn’t mention was the drill guide hanging from the sash chain on the back of your drill press. I have half a dozen around the shop but all of them never seem to get back up to the pegs where they belong and I always seem to be on a hunt for them. Don’t know why that is. I developed another use for sash chain when I was working as an HVAC tech. I used sash chain to pull various types of wiring from one floor to another in buildings. The holes are drilled at both locations and the sash chain is let down inside the wall from the top or higher hole. Sash chain is very flexible so it’s just a matter of using a wire hook to maneuver inside the wall to grab the chain and pull it through the lower hole. You can then attach the wire to the chain and pull it up through the top hole. Standard electrical fish tapes are rigid and made for conduit pulling and don’t work well in larger spaces. The sash chain works amazingly well. Many times after dropping the chain down I have gone down to find the chain had actually made it way right out the bottom hole. It takes a chain about 20-30 feet long of course but it’s cheap and reusable. I have the same chain I purchased over fifty years ago although it will be a bit shorter now thanks to your tips. Dale from Decatur.
Great video, a variation of the chuck key magnet that I've used for years is to RTV glue a small neo magnet in the hole in the back of the key, then I just stick it to the frame of the press. Quick and easy!
Mr. Pete. What a great video! Every tip you presented is most usefull in the shop and ones that I will find helpfull. I appreciate you sharing your years of experience and wisdom.
Great tips Mr. Pete, and yes I watched your magnet demo video when you published it. I found that video very informative. Thanks for taking the time to make and publish your videos. Merry Christmas to you and yours Mr. Pete!! Regards, Duck
Great tips! My dad always used a clip on retractable key reel to hold his chuck key for the drill press. The clip would go on the bottom half of the pulley housing and it was attached to the chuck key with a split washer just like yours. Chris
Great info again Mr Pete, And I am one of the guys that did watch the super magnet video and then bought some. Had great fun with them and have used several to make handy helpers in the shop. Keep up the good work.
It's the little things that cost me the most time and hunting for chuck keys and special wrenches WAS one of them until I discovered the magnets in surplus computer hard drives - these large flat magnets are mounted on plates that can be screwed to my wooden benches and hold all sorts of things. The discipline is "a place for everything and everything in its place"! Great tips - I enjoy all of your videos - thank you!!!
Another great Video. I really enjoy the idea of showing simple, and effective items to both make and use around the shop. It's similar to your brass bearing, plumb bob and aluminium pulley video, where you both make a useful and usable item, while learning and showing how to make, it I would really like to see more such videos, such as your home made screw jacks, Keep these great videos coming!!!
This video reminds me of the old Popular Science and Popular Mechanics magazines with their tips section. As a boy I read every one of these magazines I could find and love the tips section. In fact one tip, which is useless today, was how to find the pull chain for the ceiling light in the middle of a room. Touch your thumbs together to fan your hands out as you walk the room. I wondered why you would have a hall light on while you did this, maybe I was just being a wise guy to mock the tip. Anyway, loved this video Mr. Pete.
Nice little collection of tips from the senior statesman of the youtube machinists. I am pretty sure I have already watched your 600 other videos. Ignore the trolls. They only want to upset you. Thanks for the video.
Great video. Microwave ovens contain a couple of large ceramic magnets (in the magnetron). I salvage them from defunct microwaves, of which there seems to be a never-ending supply. I use them to stick my chuck keys to their machines, as well as the arbor wrench for my table saw and all the assorted dedicated keys and wrenches for my other machines.
One of the first projects I made on the lathe was a center drill holder from an imported morse taper arbor. If you just install the drill into the arbor, however, you will find it painfully short most of the time. Look forward to a lot of cranking the tail stock quill. What I did was make an "extension" shaft for the center drill holder so that when inserted into the tailstock the center drill is basically at the same length as a typical drill bit and chuck. This tool works great and I use it ALL the time.
One of the projects we did when I took my machining course was to make a centre drill holder like you described, though we started from round stock. I imagine it would go a bit quicker without having to turn the taper, though I guess that's not really the point when you're doing it as part of a class. One trick I figured out for mine was to drill it first with a drill only just larger than the tip of the centre drill, then to come in with the larger drill and reamer for the body diameter creating an internal shoulder. That way the centre drill locates itself lengthwise on the shoulder instead of the tip, and won't seat too far in if the tip breaks off.
One step ahead of you on the centre drill holder! It is a good tip, a few years back now I made a pair for my 2 most common centre drills I use in my business, a 4mm and a 3mm. I bought special blank arbours because they were cheap online and they are already soft/semi hard for machining. One of the machining projects I did in metal and used almost everyday.
i finally found a Google book version of the south bend lathe book you have recommended in the past. Although I don't yet have a lathe I still enjoy reading it, especially on annealing and tempering different metals. Thanks for recommending it. I thoroughly enjoy all your videos and try to watch them when internet is available to me. Thank you for posting them
I made a museum exhibit with a 2 inch diameter spherical neodymium magnet which was down right dangerous! A coworker opened the shipping container when it arrived and had her hand smashed up against a metal shelf by it while playing with it. As always, your videos are much appreciated! I also had to laugh when you talked about "chaining" chuck keys to machines. I spent twenty years trying to deal with faculty and grad students losing chuck keys and anything else that was not nailed down! Best wishes for 2016!
Hi Mr. Pete; while i am only a few years younger than you, you remind me of the old World War 2 vets from when I was growing up. Men that could do anything, run anything, fix anything. The men that saved the world, the men that kept us safe and warm. Now, it appears according to the current liberal, progressive thinking, you were the guys that caused all the trouble in this country today. God bless America and God bless Mr. Pete and men like him.
Keystock and cold rolled flat stock can also be used as parallels as long as you make sure it's straight and constant thickness. Check it with a micrometer before you use it but it's usually plus/minus.0005 over 16 inches. A 16 inch length gives me two 8 inch parallels. Plenty good enough for most of the work I do. Thanks, John
Mrpete, I am not a machinist, but watch hundreds of machine shop videos, and I OFTEN see drill bit bend and go seemingly off center when drilling. The operator never comments on it, as if its no problem. Doesn't it make the hole off center? You are the first to mention it to my knowledge. Love your videos, thanks for making them! eric
Thanks Mr. Pete and to your brother too! All great tips. Liked the tailstock key holder and could be moded like you said to hold multiple things...think I'll give it a try. A tip I found that works for me on soft vice jaws was to use magnetic tape that goes on the underside of the top of the angle. Found the neo magnets to draw particles from across the room and a pain to clean off, plus they tend to crack under pressure from the work and vice. The tape can just be brushed with a brush to clear the filings, etc. Found the tape at Tap Plastics and the adhesive lasts as long as the jaws do. Enjoyed this one a lot! ~PJ P.S...some of us did watched your lens effect videos. ~¿@ Think you gave away the store to 24a? 8-)
This is a great video with enough ideas to keep me busy for a very long time. I can hardly wait to get out in the shop and get started. Thank you sir, you do great work. ....Ken ....Marina CA " a really old guy ; ) "
I would love to see you make one of those center drill morse taper holders! That would be a VERY interesting video, as I don't know how to cut a MT and I also don't know how you'd slit that. Lots of learning on a project like that.
On your chuck key I have epoxide a super magnet to the end opposite the gear end. if the housing of your lathe or drill press isn't magnetic epoxy a round slug to it. The slug works better either way because it is bare metal and locates it wear the chuck should go back. Also I put super magnet on your oil cup to keep them from falling off. Thank you very much for all your help.
some great tips thank you sir.. i will definitely have to use a magnet for the chuck key we are always misplacing it... keep up the excellent videos...
Another very informative video. Don't know why anyone would "thumbs down" this video, unless they are former students who were not very good machinist! Or another jealous TH-camr who doesn't get your number of views. Keep machining and stay young.
Found "tubalcain Demonstrates NEODYMIUM Rare Earth Magnets Lenz's Law," and watched. It was very interesting. I like the levitation over the 2" copper plate. Makes you think, or gives you ideas on how to mess with the wife. lol
As an alternative, for the chuck key handle, I used a plastic file handle. That way you gain extra length as well as a fatter grip, that is easier to hold. I then connected it to a retractable key chain reel. The kind of thing you often see security guards wear. A large hose clamp attaches the reel to the mast of my drill press, so the key can not stay in the chuck but it does not wander off either.
Friendly Tip! For those wanting to run out and buy dedicated center drill holders, should consider putting the money toward a Morse taper ER Collet Chuck set. It will accomplish the same goal of precision locating your center drills plus, you can then precisely hold the drill, reamer, C'Sink, etc. as well. Though it's not the best overall choice, the collet chuck can also, when used with an R8 - Mores taper adapter, be used in the Bridgeport mill. Lyle, I don't mean to diminish your tip, just wanted to expand on it and get our minds thinking beyond the supposedly confining six sides of a fictitious carton. Later, JimC
GR8T info Mr.Pete. The magnet on the Mill-quill is pure genius. I've already have the magnet. Now I just need a mill :o\ Also glad you brought up the perceived "center drill" walk. I do notice it sometimes watching (and learning from) various machining videos. I never knew if that motion was heading south or finding center..Either way, it was clear that one would hope for very little movement, if any. Thanks for the Tips.
Lyle. As you said, magnetism can be a machinist's enemy. Instead of using magnets to attach chuck key holders to tailstocks, etc., a quality double-sided tape could be an alternative. I also saw a video of someone using a piece of "banding" strap, bent into sort of an omega-shaped configuration (it had a "springy" nature to it), to hold thin parallels in their mill vise. As you tightened the vise, the banding flattened out, then sprang back when opening the vise jaws. The same video also showed using a couple compression springs being used between the two thin parallels, contracting when the vise was tightened, and, expanding when the jaws were opened. Both methods for holding thin parallels upright seemed to work very well.
Great set of tips Mr. Pete. On chuck key storage: My dad's drill press (which I inherited) had the chuck key stored on one of those spring-loaded doodads people used to use to hold their keys to their belt. Know what I'm talking about? It's attached around the shaft of the key so that it rotates freely and doesn't interfere with the thumb grip. Has always worked great.
If you have some old speakers laying around, they have magnets that are quite strong as well. On my drill press, I simply stuck the magnet to the side beside the on/off switch, and stuck the chuck key to the magnet. Because there is more surface contact against the machine than the chuck key, the magnet stays put when I pull the key off to use it.
The best thing I have found for chuck keys is a retractable badge holder. You can clip it to the belt cover on the drillpress pull down to use the key and when you let go of it retracts right back to its spot
good ideas, mr. peterson! i'd throw in one good source for niobium magnets. that is the old crushed, or obsolete computer hard drives. there are four or five magnets inside each of them. i usually epoxy a magnet to a jacobbs key, and that keeps it nicely on the column of the drill press. the only negative is that it might attract steel chips. thanks for the video, -toly
Hi Pete I know what you mean about how the chuck key kinda hurts your fingers, I removed the handle off a couple of common used keys and welded a piece of round stock to make it longer then I welded on a cross bar to make it a T handle, They work great and it is easy to get the drill bit tight. I have one of those small cheap chucks (multi-craft) on an air drill, the reason I never replaced it is because it is smaller in diameter than the good Jacobs chucks, to tighten the chuck I put the chuck key in the vise and turn the drill around the key. I liked your idea about the center drill, question wouldn't you wind up with a more accurate hole if you put the morse taper arbor in the spindle of the lathe like when turning between centers then drill it. My thought is if the tail stock was off even the slightest amount you would wind up drilling a hole off center. When drilling on the lathe if the drill bit is not wobbling around it is drilling a hole on center. Thanks for your time John F
I use the HFT magnet pans like mechanics use for holding nuts/bolts on my equipment to hold keys, wrenches, etc etc. They're cheap, work and I can move them if necessary.
Two Thumbs Up!!! mr pete-I have yet to see a video that I have NOT learned something from -some people just have to say negative things I guess. Don't let them get under your skin though (I know you don't) chances are they don't have a clue to start with
.....9:30........I used to see a little clip made from spring steel that mounted on that nut/stud....just for the purpose of holding that little locking handle...
Hi You can use 4 of the Neo super magnets as a de magnetizer, Take a slug of iron or steel suitable for chucking in a lathe. Use a compass to find north end of two magnets and put side by side on the end of the slug. No find the south end of two magnets and place beside the north end magnets. Now you have 4 magnets on the end of the slug in a cross formation. I did not try to glue the magnets on the slug. Maybe a better way would be to mill ports for the magnets to hold them in place.. Put in a chuck on the lathe and rotate at a couple hundred RPM. Now you can hold a tool that is magnetized near the end of the rotating magnets. Closer is better BUT the magnets will suck the tool in. So be prepared to fight the pull. 30 seconds or so you can check the tool for residual magnetism. If the tool is still magnetized repeat as needed.
For the drill press chuck key problem I use a retractable keychain. It's attached to a light bracket I added and goes through a hole I drilled in the key shaft. Not a lot of pull to it, but enough that you can't leave it in the chuck. Less annoying than the self-.ejecting kind. To avoid losing the key for lathe drill chucks I put them in the chuck when I remove it. For the lathe chuck key I'm thinking about welding a short length of tube to the leg of the bench. Wondering if it might be a good idea to put a switch in the tube and wire it into the start switch so the lathe won't start if the key isn't in the tube. Would have to make it low voltage and use a relay for safety. Might consider putting the end mills in that holder the other way around..less sharp to grab and less flute banging together. Thanks for the ideas! -- Mike
+BigMjolnir Thanks for watching. I used those key retractors at school. They were made especially for DPs. But they were too delicate--kids tore them up. You got some good ideas there
I do wish I had the time spent looking for chuck keys back ! Nice you are able to visit with your brother. :-) Question. Have you done an instruction video on how us home shop guys can dress the ways on our old machines to improve their tolerances? ...Just a little Craftsman 101, but acceptable tolerance for such a small lathe is critical. I also must find a replacement gear for the saddle traverse mechanism. rc
great ideas. I've had that same problem with our Best Bridgeport at work. we've used rubber bands and twist ties. I think the magnet will work better. Did you get a few sips off the bottle near the end? Freud would be proud.
#1 tack a piece of 1/4 pipe on there. Make it too big to put in your pocket. #2 put a bungie on the key from the upper housing. Its always right where you need it and it doesn't want to stay in the chuck. #4 after you put the tube on the chuck key. tether a 3/16 slice of a 3" pipe to the end of the handle and you can hang it on anything. #5 you just need a purpose built tool board for every machine. #10 I use a mt2 endmill holder with a center drill.
Awesome stuff! It’s little things like this that make a shop work! I gotta ask about the black canister you move out of the way right before you start talking about parallels. It has a plate mounted to the front, like an award, but it looks functional. Is it an oil canister?
It is a spill proof oil can but the one you see in the video was a gift from trainman4602. Here is the a link to Mr petes video th-cam.com/video/HOAK4-Kd7QA/w-d-xo.html
I'm getting more careful about using magnets by now, cause sometimes everything gets magnetized, bits, tool, machines, then all chips and slivers stay near or in my fingers... ;) A couple of good ideas in this video........... If trolls were to say why they give thumbs down they'd stop being trolls, and those have a strong will to stay alive... They visit all of us in turns... LOL
The. Size of a quarter and will lift 30 lbs .great for when you spill things or finding very small things I put them different places and lengths in my shop
I use a light spring to hold my parallels up in a vise. I actually have two different spring sizes. One is a bit longer than the other. Each is a coil spring about 3/4s of an inch in diameter. They are light enough I can squeeze them together with my fingers, but stiff enough they hold the parallels up with ease. Wire diameter of the springs is about 3/64s of an inch. I have a half of a doughnut magnet I busted out of a larger speaker that I use to hold my chuck key to my mill. For some odd reason it does not really magnetize the chuck all that much either. It might be the cheap Chinese metal the chuck is made out of? I really don't know. But the key holds securely on the magnet. Grabbing the chuck key off that magnet, and putting it back on couldn't be easier really. I also tape little magnets to paper charts I have made. That way I can stick the charts to various places, or pull them down easily for hand reference. Sometimes I just want what I am reading in my hand.
+Paul Frederick Hard, higher carbon steels tend to get and hold magnetism more than iron or very soft steel. Not sure why. The cores of transformers are made from dead soft iron (in case you ever need a source of soft iron). It's easy to set up to demagnetize things. I think Mr Pete has a video on the subject. I use a 3/4 disk magnet (rare earth, or neodymium) to hold my chuck key. I just put the magnet somewhere on the drill press head and touch the pivot of the key onto the magnet. It sticks well, and the magnet always stays on the drill press (which is why I use the larger magnet).
Peter W. Meek I thought transformer laminations were made out of silicon steel? I have a degaussing plate in my shop. It works well for demagnetizing things. The magnet I use came out of a big speaker. So it is just a ceramic magnet. It still has plenty of power to hold onto a chuck key though.
You are correct; modern transformer cores are made from high-permeability silicon steel. I am so used to salvaging old transformers for their simple iron cores that I forgot about current practice.
mrpete222 Parallels flopping around in mill vises really used to bother me. The right spring stuck in between them fixes that up nicely though. There is actually a commercial product that is like springs in telescoping tubing for holding parallels apart. They have little fingers and sit outboard of the vise. Nicer than what I do for sure, but my fix is dead simple, and free with a junk spring. Here's what I recall that looking like i.imgur.com/L3klKlN.png
Unfortunately, not even the safety keys can prevent "true stupid". I switched my press on while actively holding the chuck key in. I absolutely don't have a good excuse why (because there isn't one). No injury though thankfully. Just threw it across the garage.
I'd like to make a suggestion. If you could make a summary/outline of your tips for these types of videos. now I have to go back and watch it again with a notepad.
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I just love that TH-cam has brought fine legacies like Mr. Pete. These kind of classes are disappearing from schools so it is nice that this kind of wisdom has a place.
+Brian Donahue Absolutely, I've learned more since I found Mr. Pete's channel then I ever did in school!!
+Brian Donahue I agree! I was on the fence about getting some machinery until I found Mr. Pete's channel several years ago...now I have two lathes, a mill and a couple of welders..and the confidence and knowledge to use them...thanks Mr. Pete, so much.
+Brian Donahue thanks for watching
...YES!.....
Mr Pete is my mentor. Smartest person I know (of)
Mr. Pete,
Good tips from Cody! One tip I picked up you didn’t mention was the drill guide hanging from the sash chain on the back of your drill press. I have half a dozen around the shop but all of them never seem to get back up to the pegs where they belong and I always seem to be on a hunt for them. Don’t know why that is.
I developed another use for sash chain when I was working as an HVAC tech. I used sash chain to pull various types of wiring from one floor to another in buildings. The holes are drilled at both locations and the sash chain is let down inside the wall from the top or higher hole. Sash chain is very flexible so it’s just a matter of using a wire hook to maneuver inside the wall to grab the chain and pull it through the lower hole. You can then attach the wire to the chain and pull it up through the top hole. Standard electrical fish tapes are rigid and made for conduit pulling and don’t work well in larger spaces. The sash chain works amazingly well. Many times after dropping the chain down I have gone down to find the chain had actually made it way right out the bottom hole. It takes a chain about 20-30 feet long of course but it’s cheap and reusable. I have the same chain I purchased over fifty years ago although it will be a bit shorter now thanks to your tips.
Dale from Decatur.
That's good information, the chain is a mighty handy product
Great video, a variation of the chuck key magnet that I've used for years is to RTV glue a small neo magnet in the hole in the back of the key, then I just stick it to the frame of the press. Quick and easy!
+Jason Toews good idea
Some great ideas. Thanks Jan and Pete!
Good stuff as always Mr. Pete! I especially like the quill clamp idea.Thank you sir.
+Mr Frog thanks for watching
Mr. Pete. What a great video! Every tip you presented is most usefull in the shop and ones that I will find helpfull. I appreciate you sharing your years of experience and wisdom.
+Roy Lucas thanks for watching
Great tips Mr. Pete, and yes I watched your magnet demo video when you published it.
I found that video very informative.
Thanks for taking the time to make and publish your videos.
Merry Christmas to you and yours Mr. Pete!!
Regards,
Duck
+camojoe2 thanks for watching
I'm surprised that not many folks watched your magnet video. I thought it was fun and educational. Great tips on this video. Thank you!
+HemiRod23 thanks for watching
Mr. Pete, Thanks for the tip on the center drill. I've asked many people about that but never got a good answer. That's a great little project.
+Mike C. thanks for watching
That was a whole lot of useful ideas, thanks Lyle.
+cyrex686 thanks for watching
I don't think I'll live long enough to watch 600 videos but the ones i have seen are very interesting.
Great tips! My dad always used a clip on retractable key reel to hold his chuck key for the drill press. The clip would go on the bottom half of the pulley housing and it was attached to the chuck key with a split washer just like yours. Chris
+shadowdog500 thanks for watching
Great info again Mr Pete, And I am one of the guys that did watch the super magnet video and then bought some. Had great fun with them and have used several to make handy helpers in the shop.
Keep up the good work.
+stefanoworx Thanks for watching--so your the ONE who watched it
going out to the shop to do a few of your tips now, thanks, really enjoy your videos, I always learn something.
👍👍
It's the little things that cost me the most time and hunting for chuck keys and special wrenches WAS one of them until I discovered the magnets in surplus computer hard drives - these large flat magnets are mounted on plates that can be screwed to my wooden benches and hold all sorts of things. The discipline is "a place for everything and everything in its place"! Great tips - I enjoy all of your videos - thank you!!!
+Anthony Nagy thanks for watching
All good inventions seem like obvious ideas in hindsight. :)
Thank you for the good tips!
+David Reynolds thanks for watching
Learned some good stuff as usual. Thank you. Merry Christmas.
+MrHevyshevy thanks for watching
Thanks for all the great tips.
+Patrick Craig thanks for watching
Another great Video. I really enjoy the idea of showing simple, and effective items to both make and use around the shop. It's similar to your brass bearing, plumb bob and aluminium pulley video, where you both make a useful and usable item, while learning and showing how to make, it I would really like to see more such videos, such as your home made screw jacks, Keep these great videos coming!!!
+Jim Doan thanks for watching
Thanks for the tips it's nice to see things that are so simple but rarely thought of especially the magnets
+Raymond Horvatin thanks for watching
This video reminds me of the old Popular Science and Popular Mechanics magazines with their tips section. As a boy I read every one of these magazines I could find and love the tips section. In fact one tip, which is useless today, was how to find the pull chain for the ceiling light in the middle of a room. Touch your thumbs together to fan your hands out as you walk the room. I wondered why you would have a hall light on while you did this, maybe I was just being a wise guy to mock the tip. Anyway, loved this video Mr. Pete.
Those were my favorite magazines. I still have hundreds of them that I like to look through
As usual ... always useful tips. Please keep it up.
+carver3419 thanks for watching
Nice little collection of tips from the senior statesman of the youtube machinists. I am pretty sure I have already watched your 600 other videos. Ignore the trolls. They only want to upset you. Thanks for the video.
+cerberus thanks for watching
Great video. Microwave ovens contain a couple of large ceramic magnets (in the magnetron). I salvage them from defunct microwaves, of which there seems to be a never-ending supply. I use them to stick my chuck keys to their machines, as well as the arbor wrench for my table saw and all the assorted dedicated keys and wrenches for my other machines.
+Brian Taylor Thats a good source, thanks
One of the first projects I made on the lathe was a center drill holder from an imported morse taper arbor. If you just install the drill into the arbor, however, you will find it painfully short most of the time. Look forward to a lot of cranking the tail stock quill. What I did was make an "extension" shaft for the center drill holder so that when inserted into the tailstock the center drill is basically at the same length as a typical drill bit and chuck.
This tool works great and I use it ALL the time.
+Douglas Bollinger thanks for watching--they are a bit short
One of the projects we did when I took my machining course was to make a centre drill holder like you described, though we started from round stock. I imagine it would go a bit quicker without having to turn the taper, though I guess that's not really the point when you're doing it as part of a class. One trick I figured out for mine was to drill it first with a drill only just larger than the tip of the centre drill, then to come in with the larger drill and reamer for the body diameter creating an internal shoulder. That way the centre drill locates itself lengthwise on the shoulder instead of the tip, and won't seat too far in if the tip breaks off.
+imbored742 thanks for watching
One step ahead of you on the centre drill holder! It is a good tip, a few years back now I made a pair for my 2 most common centre drills I use in my business, a 4mm and a 3mm. I bought special blank arbours because they were cheap online and they are already soft/semi hard for machining. One of the machining projects I did in metal and used almost everyday.
+caskwith Thanks for watching--good job. I'm half way thru making just such a video. I will show how to anneal a drill bit to get the blank
Great tips as always, thanks for sharing!
+Jeff Moss thanks for watching
Great video! Will definitely use several of these tips.
+Jerry Rose Thanks for watching
i finally found a Google book version of the south bend lathe book you have recommended in the past. Although I don't yet have a lathe I still enjoy reading it, especially on annealing and tempering different metals. Thanks for recommending it. I thoroughly enjoy all your videos and try to watch them when internet is available to me. Thank you for posting them
+Gary W Jones (Rooster Tech) Thanks for watching--Which edition is that ?
+mrpete222 "How to run a lathe" revised edition number 15. Shows an original price of 50 cents
+Gary W Jones (Rooster Tech) thanks
I made a museum exhibit with a 2 inch diameter spherical neodymium magnet which was down right dangerous! A coworker opened the shipping container when it arrived and had her hand smashed up against a metal shelf by it while playing with it. As always, your videos are much appreciated! I also had to laugh when you talked about "chaining" chuck keys to machines. I spent twenty years trying to deal with faculty and grad students losing chuck keys and anything else that was not nailed down! Best wishes for 2016!
+William Lee Yes-my grandkids pitch their fingers
educational, as always- thanks for your efforts
+ron deak Thanks for watching
Hi Mr. Pete; while i am only a few years younger than you, you remind me of the old World War 2 vets from when I was growing up. Men that could do anything, run anything, fix anything. The men that saved the world, the men that kept us safe and warm. Now, it appears according to the current liberal, progressive thinking, you were the guys that caused all the trouble in this country today. God bless America and God bless Mr. Pete and men like him.
+John C thanks for watching--glad you like the videos
Legend. Gratitude good sir!
👍
Nice bunch of tips. I particularly like the centerdrill collet.
Thanks for the video
John
Keystock and cold rolled flat stock can also be used as parallels as long as you make sure it's straight and constant thickness. Check it with a micrometer before you use it but it's usually plus/minus.0005 over 16 inches. A 16 inch length gives me two 8 inch parallels. Plenty good enough for most of the work I do.
Thanks,
John
+John Bazaar thanks for watching
Thanks again for your shop tips ------- enjoyed
+Tom Bellus thanks for watching
no truer words have ever been spoken you'll go to Harbor Freight whether you like it or not LOL you are the man mr. pete
Mrpete, I am not a machinist, but watch hundreds of machine shop videos, and I OFTEN see drill bit bend and go seemingly off center when drilling. The operator never comments on it, as if its no problem. Doesn't it make the hole off center? You are the first to mention it to my knowledge. Love your videos, thanks for making them!
eric
+epd807 Thanks for watching. With smaller bits, the hole will follow the center punch mark. Bigger one may stray
Excellent.~
I'll for sure implement 5 or even 6.
Thank you.
+68sweetnovember Thanks for watching
I watched the magnet video. In fact I was strangely drawn to it. Merry Christmas Mr. Pete!
+Poncho likes bacon Thats a good one
Thanks Mr. Pete and to your brother too! All great tips. Liked the tailstock key holder and could be moded like you said to hold multiple things...think I'll give it a try. A tip I found that works for me on soft vice jaws was to use magnetic tape that goes on the underside of the top of the angle. Found the neo magnets to draw particles from across the room and a pain to clean off, plus they tend to crack under pressure from the work and vice. The tape can just be brushed with a brush to clear the filings, etc. Found the tape at Tap Plastics and the adhesive lasts as long as the jaws do. Enjoyed this one a lot! ~PJ
P.S...some of us did watched your lens effect videos. ~¿@ Think you gave away the store to 24a? 8-)
+pjsalchemy thanks for watching
This is a great video with enough ideas to keep me busy for a very long time. I can hardly wait to get out in the shop and get started. Thank you sir, you do great work. ....Ken ....Marina CA " a really old guy ; ) "
+Kenneth Bartlett thanks for watching
Great info as usual.
+19441978 thanks for watching
I would love to see you make one of those center drill morse taper holders! That would be a VERY interesting video, as I don't know how to cut a MT and I also don't know how you'd slit that. Lots of learning on a project like that.
+deemstyle Have a video on that coming up. But made differently
On your chuck key I have epoxide a super magnet to the end opposite the gear end. if the housing of your lathe or drill press isn't magnetic epoxy a round slug to it. The slug works better either way because it is bare metal and locates it wear the chuck should go back. Also I put super magnet on your oil cup to keep them from falling off. Thank you very much for all your help.
Always good as usual.
+lester grenz thanks for watching
Jimmy Stewart, I presume? Great tips. Many thanks.
thanks again videos....yup seen the chain on drill press tragady...many times
some great tips thank you sir.. i will definitely have to use a magnet for the chuck key we are always misplacing it... keep up the excellent videos...
+Kevin Willis thanks for watching
Thanks... that was great! (again)
+bentontool thanks for watching
Thanks for the chuck key tip! All my keys are fixed up and easier to use now.
+T Hilde great
Another very informative video. Don't know why anyone would "thumbs down" this video, unless they are former students who were not very good machinist! Or another jealous TH-camr who doesn't get your number of views. Keep machining and stay young.
Found "tubalcain Demonstrates NEODYMIUM Rare Earth Magnets Lenz's Law," and watched. It was very interesting. I like the levitation over the 2" copper plate. Makes you think, or gives you ideas on how to mess with the wife. lol
As an alternative, for the chuck key handle, I used a plastic file handle. That way you gain extra length as well as a fatter grip, that is easier to hold. I then connected it to a retractable key chain reel. The kind of thing you often see security guards wear. A large hose clamp attaches the reel to the mast of my drill press, so the key can not stay in the chuck but it does not wander off either.
+Bradley MacKenzie Great ideas
Great tips.
+Don Miller Thanks for watching
Great Tips!
+Gus Lint thanks for watching
Friendly Tip! For those wanting to run out and buy dedicated center drill holders, should consider putting the money toward a Morse taper ER Collet Chuck set. It will accomplish the same goal of precision locating your center drills plus, you can then precisely hold the drill, reamer, C'Sink, etc. as well. Though it's not the best overall choice, the collet chuck can also, when used with an R8 - Mores taper adapter, be used in the Bridgeport mill. Lyle, I don't mean to diminish your tip, just wanted to expand on it and get our minds thinking beyond the supposedly confining six sides of a fictitious carton. Later, JimC
+AJKandK Good idea
Great ideas.
+John Strange thanks for watching
GR8T info Mr.Pete. The magnet on the Mill-quill is pure genius. I've already have the magnet. Now I just need a mill :o\ Also glad you brought up the perceived "center drill" walk. I do notice it sometimes watching (and learning from) various machining videos. I never knew if that motion was heading south or finding center..Either way, it was clear that one would hope for very little movement, if any. Thanks for the Tips.
+OvalWingNut thanks for watching
Lyle. As you said, magnetism can be a machinist's enemy. Instead of using magnets to attach chuck key holders to tailstocks, etc., a quality double-sided tape could be an alternative. I also saw a video of someone using a piece of "banding" strap, bent into sort of an omega-shaped configuration (it had a "springy" nature to it), to hold thin parallels in their mill vise. As you tightened the vise, the banding flattened out, then sprang back when opening the vise jaws. The same video also showed using a couple compression springs being used between the two thin parallels, contracting when the vise was tightened, and, expanding when the jaws were opened. Both methods for holding thin parallels upright seemed to work very well.
Great Videos, keep them coming
+Edward Manning Thanks for watching
Great set of tips Mr. Pete. On chuck key storage: My dad's drill press (which I inherited) had the chuck key stored on one of those spring-loaded doodads people used to use to hold their keys to their belt. Know what I'm talking about? It's attached around the shaft of the key so that it rotates freely and doesn't interfere with the thumb grip. Has always worked great.
+Rick Rose Yes-I remember those
Thank you for all your wisdom and knowledge that you give us
Those magnets are just great on the fridge holds all the photos.
Great Tips.
+Garry Fuller Sr Thanks for watching
If you have some old speakers laying around, they have magnets that are quite strong as well. On my drill press, I simply stuck the magnet to the side beside the on/off switch, and stuck the chuck key to the magnet. Because there is more surface contact against the machine than the chuck key, the magnet stays put when I pull the key off to use it.
I liked you magnet video, it was cool.
+The Texas Gun Guy thanks for watching
The best thing I have found for chuck keys is a retractable badge holder. You can clip it to the belt cover on the drillpress pull down to use the key and when you let go of it retracts right back to its spot
+Austin Lundberg Thanks for watching. Good idea--I need to try that
That's exactly how I have all mine.
all your videos are great -- forget the naysayers... we love learning!
Nice tips, Lyle.
+ILGopher Thanks for watching
good ideas, mr. peterson!
i'd throw in one good source for niobium magnets. that is the old crushed, or obsolete computer hard drives. there are four or five magnets inside each of them.
i usually epoxy a magnet to a jacobbs key, and that keeps it nicely on the column of the drill press.
the only negative is that it might attract steel chips.
thanks for the video,
-toly
+Toly Dukhovny Yes--my friend gets them from hard drives
Mr. Pete, you can't say nobody ever watched your magnet videos because I did!
+Mark Helms Thanks for watching
Try self-adhesive ferrite magnet strip shuck on the back of the parallel - weak enough not to be annoying, strong enough to stop them falling over
+Mark Sinden Good idea
Hi Pete
I know what you mean about how the chuck key kinda hurts your fingers, I removed the handle off a couple of common used keys and welded a piece of round stock to make it longer then I welded on a cross bar to make it a T handle, They work great and it is easy to get the drill bit tight.
I have one of those small cheap chucks (multi-craft) on an air drill, the reason I never replaced it is because it is smaller in diameter than the good Jacobs chucks, to tighten the chuck I put the chuck key in the vise and turn the drill around the key.
I liked your idea about the center drill, question wouldn't you wind up with a more accurate hole if you put the morse taper arbor in the spindle of the lathe like when turning between centers then drill it. My thought is if the tail stock was off even the slightest amount you would wind up drilling a hole off center. When drilling on the lathe if the drill bit is not wobbling around it is drilling a hole on center.
Thanks for your time John F
+imystery man Good idea for the key. I just made a video on the drill driver--in it I used your method of drilling
I use the HFT magnet pans like mechanics use for holding nuts/bolts on my equipment to hold keys, wrenches, etc etc. They're cheap, work and I can move them if necessary.
+nova3930 thanks for watching
springs are nice to use for parallels also =)
+Tomas Wilhelmsson thanks for watching
Two Thumbs Up!!! mr pete-I have yet to see a video that I have NOT learned something from -some people just have to say negative things I guess. Don't let them get under your skin though (I know you don't) chances are they don't have a clue to start with
+Rosario W Thanks for the encouragement
.....9:30........I used to see a little clip made from spring steel that mounted on that nut/stud....just for the purpose of holding that little locking handle...
Thumbs up, interesting
+Robert Perrigo thanks for watching
I watched your video on neodymium magnets, I found it interesting myself. Guess I'm odd, but that's no surprise.
+ShysterLawyer thanks for watching
Hi
You can use 4 of the Neo super magnets as a de magnetizer,
Take a slug of iron or steel suitable for chucking in a lathe.
Use a compass to find north end of two magnets and put side by side on the end of the slug.
No find the south end of two magnets and place beside the north end magnets.
Now you have 4 magnets on the end of the slug in a cross formation. I did not try to glue the magnets on the slug. Maybe a better way would be to mill ports for the magnets to hold them in place..
Put in a chuck on the lathe and rotate at a couple hundred RPM.
Now you can hold a tool that is magnetized near the end of the rotating magnets.
Closer is better BUT the magnets will suck the tool in. So be prepared to fight the pull.
30 seconds or so you can check the tool for residual magnetism.
If the tool is still magnetized repeat as needed.
+Dennis Williams I'll try it
For the drill press chuck key problem I use a retractable keychain. It's attached to a light bracket I added and goes through a hole I drilled in the key shaft. Not a lot of pull to it, but enough that you can't leave it in the chuck. Less annoying than the self-.ejecting kind. To avoid losing the key for lathe drill chucks I put them in the chuck when I remove it. For the lathe chuck key I'm thinking about welding a short length of tube to the leg of the bench. Wondering if it might be a good idea to put a switch in the tube and wire it into the start switch so the lathe won't start if the key isn't in the tube. Would have to make it low voltage and use a relay for safety. Might consider putting the end mills in that holder the other way around..less sharp to grab and less flute banging together.
Thanks for the ideas!
-- Mike
+BigMjolnir Thanks for watching. I used those key retractors at school. They were made especially for DPs. But they were too delicate--kids tore them up. You got some good ideas there
I do wish I had the time spent looking for chuck keys back !
Nice you are able to visit with your brother. :-)
Question. Have you done an instruction video on how us home shop guys can dress the ways on our old machines to improve their tolerances?
...Just a little Craftsman 101, but acceptable tolerance for such a small lathe is critical.
I also must find a replacement gear for the saddle traverse mechanism. rc
+Rusty Case Me too!
I own a hand drill that I have had for 35 years, same key. I attached them to the cord.
great ideas. I've had that same problem with our Best Bridgeport at work. we've used rubber bands and twist ties. I think the magnet will work better. Did you get a few sips off the bottle near the end? Freud would be proud.
+Ed's Gunsmithing thanks for watching
Excellent Jan.09 2019
Thanks
Thanks
+Robert Malsbury thanks for watching
#1 tack a piece of 1/4 pipe on there. Make it too big to put in your pocket. #2 put a bungie on the key from the upper housing. Its always right where you need it and it doesn't want to stay in the chuck. #4 after you put the tube on the chuck key. tether a 3/16 slice of a 3" pipe to the end of the handle and you can hang it on anything. #5 you just need a purpose built tool board for every machine. #10 I use a mt2 endmill holder with a center drill.
Great ideas
Awesome stuff! It’s little things like this that make a shop work!
I gotta ask about the black canister you move out of the way right before you start talking about parallels. It has a plate mounted to the front, like an award, but it looks functional. Is it an oil canister?
It is a spill proof oil can but the one you see in the video was a gift from trainman4602. Here is the a link to Mr petes video th-cam.com/video/HOAK4-Kd7QA/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Tubalcain! And,,, Thanks to Cody also! O,,,
+Opinionator52 thanks for watching
Hi Lyle, we know those magnets as "rare earth".
+rich kellow Yes-thanks for watching
I'm getting more careful about using magnets by now, cause sometimes everything gets magnetized, bits, tool, machines, then all chips and slivers stay near or in my fingers... ;)
A couple of good ideas in this video...........
If trolls were to say why they give thumbs down they'd stop being trolls, and those have a strong will to stay alive... They visit all of us in turns... LOL
Bill Lewis
Attract just everything metallic around and gets to be such a nuisance... ;)
+pierre beaudry I know
The. Size of a quarter and will lift 30 lbs .great for when you spill things or finding very small things I put them different places and lengths in my shop
I use a light spring to hold my parallels up in a vise. I actually have two different spring sizes. One is a bit longer than the other. Each is a coil spring about 3/4s of an inch in diameter. They are light enough I can squeeze them together with my fingers, but stiff enough they hold the parallels up with ease. Wire diameter of the springs is about 3/64s of an inch. I have a half of a doughnut magnet I busted out of a larger speaker that I use to hold my chuck key to my mill. For some odd reason it does not really magnetize the chuck all that much either. It might be the cheap Chinese metal the chuck is made out of? I really don't know. But the key holds securely on the magnet. Grabbing the chuck key off that magnet, and putting it back on couldn't be easier really. I also tape little magnets to paper charts I have made. That way I can stick the charts to various places, or pull them down easily for hand reference. Sometimes I just want what I am reading in my hand.
+Paul Frederick Hard, higher carbon steels tend to get and hold magnetism more than iron or very soft steel. Not sure why. The cores of transformers are made from dead soft iron (in case you ever need a source of soft iron). It's easy to set up to demagnetize things. I think Mr Pete has a video on the subject.
I use a 3/4 disk magnet (rare earth, or neodymium) to hold my chuck key. I just put the magnet somewhere on the drill press head and touch the pivot of the key onto the magnet. It sticks well, and the magnet always stays on the drill press (which is why I use the larger magnet).
Peter W. Meek
I thought transformer laminations were made out of silicon steel? I have a degaussing plate in my shop. It works well for demagnetizing things. The magnet I use came out of a big speaker. So it is just a ceramic magnet. It still has plenty of power to hold onto a chuck key though.
You are correct; modern transformer cores are made from high-permeability silicon steel. I am so used to salvaging old transformers for their simple iron cores that I forgot about current practice.
+Paul Frederick Good idea
mrpete222
Parallels flopping around in mill vises really used to bother me. The right spring stuck in between them fixes that up nicely though. There is actually a commercial product that is like springs in telescoping tubing for holding parallels apart. They have little fingers and sit outboard of the vise. Nicer than what I do for sure, but my fix is dead simple, and free with a junk spring. Here's what I recall that looking like i.imgur.com/L3klKlN.png
Good video as always. Do you have a good way to organize parralells ?
Nope, minor in a pile
Seems like you would come up with something ?
GREAT VIDEO ! KINKS FROM BROWNELL'S ? NOT TIPS OR TRICKS ?
+OLD WIPPER-SNAPPER Thanks for watching
Well at about 17 minutes is the answer to one of the items in the latest what is it? Cheers, Andy
+Andy Reynolds Haaa, I noticed that too. ;)
+ShysterLawyer I realized this as well....I have to wonder if no one was getting them in the comments.......
I hadn't a clue, some sort of wierd collet with a morse taper, live and learn, cheers
Passing on knowledge, the beauty of some channels, cheers
+Andy Reynolds Yes
+mrpete222 I've had a magnet on my quill lock for over a year! Great minds think alike.
+MurphysSidekic Your one up on me-lol
Unfortunately, not even the safety keys can prevent "true stupid". I switched my press on while actively holding the chuck key in. I absolutely don't have a good excuse why (because there isn't one). No injury though thankfully. Just threw it across the garage.
I have never seen a "safety" chuck key before.
I'd like to make a suggestion. If you could make a summary/outline of your tips for these types of videos. now I have to go back and watch it again with a notepad.
+Ed's Gunsmithing A daunting task with 600 videos. i do have playlist for some. look under my playlists
+mrpete222 I meant more like, 1 use aluminum angle for vice soft jaws, 2 use magnet to hold quill lock in place on Bridgeport.....
The cheapest place for magnets I've found is the chinese online stores - dx.com and banggood.com do very cheap magents up to pretty large sizes.
+David Reynolds thanks for watching