High quality video! Great job, thanks for the info. I do the same thing with the bolts in the cardboard but we had a huge gust of wind sent mine everywhere 🤦♂️😂
Hey man....quick question. I just realized after installing my oil pan gasket on my 2000 TJ, I didn't push the oil pan gasket up into the grove in the back next to the rear main seal. Did I need to do that, or do you think the gasket seated properly when I tightened down the bolts? Make sense? Thanks for your time, and you did a great job with your video. Chris
Hate to tell you, but the Felpro gasket's back radius doesn't fit the main seal cap. Way too big. You can see that at the end of your video if you look closely. I used two Felpro gaskets and nether one fit properly. Bad design. They leaked very badly. Ended up using a Mahle gasket which fit properly. Good thing, can use the Felpro holding pins. You have good videos though. Just a bad product. Since you can't run your Jeep right now, you'll find out later.
Nice video. My 01 TJ needs a rear main seal i believe. Did you have to unbolt the exhaust to remove the pan. Pretty sure I have to in order to remove my pan? I’ll be buying a new pan since mine is very crusty. Just got the jeep and don’t know it’s history. Putting a lotta luv into her right now
You do have to remove the exhaust header (“Y pipe”) to get the pan off. I was in a similar situation when I got mine a year ago. Put a lot of work in to get where I am now. Still going too. Great feeling when you tackle each job though. Check out my other videos and few free to ask questions. Glad to help where I can.
@@BurntOilGarage thx for the reply. Exhaust header meaning the manifold where it connects to the engine? Or down a bit where the header connects to the rest of the exhaust? Either scenario worries me due to the rusty bolts. So far the rear control arms and sway bar came off pretty easy. Front suspension is next. Rear main seal might have to wait till the spring but I’d like to know my plan of attack. Thanks again
@@pujo28 not the exhaust manifold that bolts to the engine along with the intake. The next part that attaches to the manifold, goes down and around the pan and then bolts to the catalytic converter.
@@BurntOilGarage thanks again for the reply. I appreciate it. I’ll PB blaster those bolts from now till the spring in the hopes they come off smooth when the time comes
@@pujo28 it’s a must. I was able to get mine out, and ended up replacing them with OEM hardware because they were kinda boogered up. If one breaks or strips, it’s a bad bad day, well worth preventing by paying the high price they charge for replacements.
I replaced mine exactly as you explained, however, I get two leaks on the left side of the panel. I checked dents, cleanliness, torque pressure on bolts and nothing… still leaks. Any thoughts?
Hard to say without seeing in person. What gasket did you use? Was all the previous gasket material completely removed and surfaces clean? Did the RTV get applied properly and have time to cure? Was the gasket somehow pinched or caught on some obstruction?
Another thought, when running the hardware down, always go around and do the corners first. Snug, like finger tight, then the centers then work your way around in a similar pattern (cross torque) going to final torque. This eliminates any misalignment or mismatched pressures when installed
I've seen some guys run RTV all around the block, pan, and around each bolt hole. Is that not a good idea? New to jeeps and never done a pan yet. Getting ready to do mine and the rear main
I’m theory you could, although it would be big mess if trying to do it with the engine installed. On the stand, with the pan facing up, it would work. Still a mess though and when the pan has to be removed, a lot of work cleaning the surface to prep for next install. These fel pro gaskets are silicone and the install pegs are the cats meow.
@@BurntOilGarage oh yea.. try that with a cork gasket on the amc 360.. no 1 peice gasket for them... the cork turns to rock after just 2-3 years and its a lot harder to get off than rtv. Im actually debating using lathetring a layer of rtv on my 360 and putting a thick layer on the front and rear where the rubber like gasket would go.. versus that cork/rubber gasket that comes in 4 peices.. I did that on my 5.9 magnum intake instead of using the rubber front and back gasket.. i put a thick layer of silicone on, from a video i saw and no leaks. people also say well rtv can break off, yea well so can cork.. when i took my pan off, 70% of the intake tube was covered with broken rock like cork
You can put a small amount not around the hole but the silicone part just to help the gasket stick to the block. Let it dry for a couple hours then put the pan. It's a pita to try and align the gasket with the pan together especially from under the vehicle.
I have a 91 xj with 87 4.0 and just installed felpro oilpan gasket it leaks from the front I got another felpro sitting in the cab in the box also I don't think I have that black hanger you got I didn't see it when I took it off and I didn't mark the bolts like you did with the box any tips?
There are pictures floating around online that shows the bolt locations, shouldn’t be too hard to find. Also the hanger you mention, I think you’re referring to the strap that goes on the back near the flywheel? Not sure how the earlier years are, but I suspect they are similar and would have it. As for the leak, did you use a couple dabs of rtv at the corners where the oil pan meets the timing cover?
@@BurntOilGarage yes I just redid it and I don't have the strap I think the previous owner lost it also I found out that the previous owner stripped two of the thread holes in the front of the oil pan and that's why it's leaking I can't tighten the bolts down
Realistically RTV silicone cures fast enough to be able to return to service almost right away. Depending on the type used, some say 90 min, some say 24 hours but that’s very conservative, especially for the small quantities used in this application. If time is of constraint, use the 90 minute and by the time you have everything back together, you will be ok.
Thanks very much for your demonstration of exactly where to apply the rtv and why. Big help, now i get it!! Great Video! Two thumbs up! 👍👍
@@allanmacdonell5275 thanks for the feedback!
Awesome video! I wish my jeep looked like this! It could be confused for a surgical bay.
@@stephenpatton8690 thanks!
The alignment pegs made that super easy
High quality video! Great job, thanks for the info. I do the same thing with the bolts in the cardboard but we had a huge gust of wind sent mine everywhere 🤦♂️😂
@@danield4426 glad you enjoyed!
Looks easy, without the flywheel and transmission :D
That definitely helped, but totally doable with them in place also.
You make it look so easy...
@@hhyperdd it was 🤓
Thanku for the torque!!!
Nice work by the way!!
If you buy the Fel-pro gasket separately, it comes with the plastic alignment studs. If you buy the whole seal kit it does not.
Great tips!
Hey man....quick question. I just realized after installing my oil pan gasket on my 2000 TJ, I didn't push the oil pan gasket up into the grove in the back next to the rear main seal. Did I need to do that, or do you think the gasket seated properly when I tightened down the bolts? Make sense? Thanks for your time, and you did a great job with your video.
Chris
So no RTV other than the rear main seal points and the timing cover mating surface ? Just the fel-pro gasket did the job ? I just picked up a '99 XJ
Correct. Just the seams where the block meets the timing cover and the rear main block
@@BurntOilGarage awesome, thanks !
How Many miles was on motor when u cleaned it and changed oil pan gasket
great thanks much
You're welcome!
Hate to tell you, but the Felpro gasket's back radius doesn't fit the main seal cap. Way too big. You can see that at the end of your video if you look closely. I used two Felpro gaskets and nether one fit properly. Bad design. They leaked very badly. Ended up using a Mahle gasket which fit properly. Good thing, can use the Felpro holding pins. You have good videos though. Just a bad product. Since you can't run your Jeep right now, you'll find out later.
Very interesting! I’ve installed two so far and put a fair amount of miles so far without any leaks
The Felpro pan gasket does not fit properly to big on the rear main cap. It will pop out and leak. I found this out the hard way too.
Nice video. My 01 TJ needs a rear main seal i believe. Did you have to unbolt the exhaust to remove the pan. Pretty sure I have to in order to remove my pan? I’ll be buying a new pan since mine is very crusty. Just got the jeep and don’t know it’s history. Putting a lotta luv into her right now
You do have to remove the exhaust header (“Y pipe”) to get the pan off. I was in a similar situation when I got mine a year ago. Put a lot of work in to get where I am now. Still going too. Great feeling when you tackle each job though. Check out my other videos and few free to ask questions. Glad to help where I can.
@@BurntOilGarage thx for the reply. Exhaust header meaning the manifold where it connects to the engine? Or down a bit where the header connects to the rest of the exhaust? Either scenario worries me due to the rusty bolts. So far the rear control arms and sway bar came off pretty easy. Front suspension is next. Rear main seal might have to wait till the spring but I’d like to know my plan of attack. Thanks again
@@pujo28 not the exhaust manifold that bolts to the engine along with the intake. The next part that attaches to the manifold, goes down and around the pan and then bolts to the catalytic converter.
@@BurntOilGarage thanks again for the reply. I appreciate it. I’ll PB blaster those bolts from now till the spring in the hopes they come off smooth when the time comes
@@pujo28 it’s a must. I was able to get mine out, and ended up replacing them with OEM hardware because they were kinda boogered up. If one breaks or strips, it’s a bad bad day, well worth preventing by paying the high price they charge for replacements.
I replaced mine exactly as you explained, however, I get two leaks on the left side of the panel. I checked dents, cleanliness, torque pressure on bolts and nothing… still leaks. Any thoughts?
Hard to say without seeing in person. What gasket did you use? Was all the previous gasket material completely removed and surfaces clean? Did the RTV get applied properly and have time to cure? Was the gasket somehow pinched or caught on some obstruction?
Another thought, when running the hardware down, always go around and do the corners first. Snug, like finger tight, then the centers then work your way around in a similar pattern (cross torque) going to final torque. This eliminates any misalignment or mismatched pressures when installed
Leave the ice alone an u would b able to sleep better 😁😁👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻
I think years of working odd hours have ruined my sleep patterns.
I've seen some guys run RTV all around the block, pan, and around each bolt hole. Is that not a good idea? New to jeeps and never done a pan yet. Getting ready to do mine and the rear main
I’m theory you could, although it would be big mess if trying to do it with the engine installed. On the stand, with the pan facing up, it would work. Still a mess though and when the pan has to be removed, a lot of work cleaning the surface to prep for next install. These fel pro gaskets are silicone and the install pegs are the cats meow.
@@BurntOilGarage Thanks for swift reply. Your videos are great! Keep em coming. I'll be coming here first for how to's. Like your style
Thanks a lot for that. It’s been a learning process and I’ve had fun making the videos. I’m glad someone is enjoying them.
@@BurntOilGarage oh yea.. try that with a cork gasket on the amc 360.. no 1 peice gasket for them... the cork turns to rock after just 2-3 years and its a lot harder to get off than rtv. Im actually debating using lathetring a layer of rtv on my 360 and putting a thick layer on the front and rear where the rubber like gasket would go.. versus that cork/rubber gasket that comes in 4 peices..
I did that on my 5.9 magnum intake instead of using the rubber front and back gasket.. i put a thick layer of silicone on, from a video i saw and no leaks. people also say well rtv can break off, yea well so can cork.. when i took my pan off, 70% of the intake tube was covered with broken rock like cork
You can put a small amount not around the hole but the silicone part just to help the gasket stick to the block. Let it dry for a couple hours then put the pan. It's a pita to try and align the gasket with the pan together especially from under the vehicle.
Very noice
do you the part number of the strap? name?
How much torque did you put for the oil pan bolts ?
Skip to 3:20 in the video, it shows the torque values
I have a 91 xj with 87 4.0 and just installed felpro oilpan gasket it leaks from the front I got another felpro sitting in the cab in the box also I don't think I have that black hanger you got I didn't see it when I took it off and I didn't mark the bolts like you did with the box any tips?
There are pictures floating around online that shows the bolt locations, shouldn’t be too hard to find. Also the hanger you mention, I think you’re referring to the strap that goes on the back near the flywheel? Not sure how the earlier years are, but I suspect they are similar and would have it. As for the leak, did you use a couple dabs of rtv at the corners where the oil pan meets the timing cover?
@@BurntOilGarage yes I just redid it and I don't have the strap I think the previous owner lost it also I found out that the previous owner stripped two of the thread holes in the front of the oil pan and that's why it's leaking I can't tighten the bolts down
@@BurntOilGarage so as of rn I'm kinda screwed lol
@@carlwagner4565 maybe you can look into helicoils to repair the stripped holes
What is that seal stuff called that you dabbed in those corners???
rtv or the right stuff which is what i use
Silicone RTV gasket maker. Any should do, some have better oil resistance than others, such as a type called “The Right Stuff”.
How long should you wait to turn on or even drive the car after you replace the gasket?
Realistically RTV silicone cures fast enough to be able to return to service almost right away. Depending on the type used, some say 90 min, some say 24 hours but that’s very conservative, especially for the small quantities used in this application. If time is of constraint, use the 90 minute and by the time you have everything back together, you will be ok.
Do u have a link for the pegs?
They come with the gasket
@@BurntOilGarage thank you so much for answering my question
ok so are the alignment pegs 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 thread? anyone can chime in , thanks in advance
They are the larger size, only in the 4 corners, 5/16-18
@@112.Adventures thank you for the reply!