I got the same code for my 2017 charger rt bc i loosened up the 3 bolts and sprayed white lithium grease inside where the spring is and I didn’t fully take it apart. Could that be the reason why my engine light came on for that code is bc I just tightened it back up without checking if the spring was properly secured?
I would clear the code and see if it comes back. If so, THEN get back under and see. To my knowledge the actuators are looking for a specific value through current to determine the position of the actuator and spring (part of the reason the bypass plates are necessary for the valve delete) But it shouldn’t hurt anything to take the actuator off completely and inspect the spring. I’ve heard of a few people greasing them, but to my knowledge two things happen to these commonly, the springs break because apparently they aren’t rated for many heat cycles, and the valves can get gummy.
Ooof. I think it just needs to have the code cleared, unless you did that already, then I would consider checking the harness for voltage or see if the actual valve on the inside is stuck. (rare but could happen, anything that moves might not after a while)
What’s up man great video, I’ve had the code come up P1217 come up before but it usually goes away after a few days. Would you say it’s just a fluke call? I’ve had flowmaster exhaust pipes put on this year, would you say that’s the problem. What should I do? I don’t wanna pay 3-500 for something that goes away after a few days
Thanks! I'm going to copy and paste something from the manual below this. If I were you, I'd prop the rear end up and check the springs in each one of those to see if they're broken/bad and check the motion of the valves themselves. If they're stuck they could be causing problems...etc. There are some bypass options for these which remove the valve altogether and a dummy plate is put in to give the actuators something to play with tricking them into believing they're working. I think that would alleviate the issue altogether. From the manual: On vehicle key-on, the actuators will cycle from open to close to ensure they have the correct range of travel. If they are unattached from the valve body they will continue to cycle indefinitely and turn on an engine light after 7 seconds. Hope this helps!
i got p1217 on my altima....ususlly runs fine but strangely sometimes overheats when i run the heat. But ac and heat both work fine. I dont think its the thermostat, but maybe. Possibly air in the lines? I dont think there are any leaks and the radiator seems fine. So im just not sure. Wish the code was more specific
I was trying to find the forum I got that from. www.challengertalk.com/threads/highly-detailed-free-repair-manual.688196/ Not sure it has everything but it had what I needed. Kinda sketch, I have no idea if they changed anything about it by now.
I think these have a motor position and tension read, I'm not entirely sure but to me, it's easier just to keep it how it is for now. Besides, I've got plenty of other things to tinker with, actually too many lol.
Hi bro So, you suggest to adjust the spring? But, how to know the motor is fine?. Can we switch the driving mode while someone in under the car to see if it is actually work?
Howdy! This is straight from the manual: "On vehicle key-on, the actuators will cycle from open to close to ensure they have the correct range of travel. If they are unattached from the valve body they will continue to cycle indefinitely and turn on an engine light after 7 seconds" That's how I would test to see if the motors function.
My light just came on this morning as I started my car for this same error P1217 2015 SRT as well. I'm not really mechanically savy; anything else you would recommend for someone like me? Just take it to the dealer?
@@CalebJK316 Yikes, sorry to hear that! Just depends, if you have the means to get underneath of it safely and see what's wrong I'd strongly recommend it. It's not a part that's super complicated to get to or to replace. (On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty I'd rate it a 2) (Not to mention a $30 dollar spring vs a 3-500 dollar shop fee). Also it may just be a fluke and a simple code clearing could turn that light off. Worst case scenario the motor itself is bad which is right in the neighborhood of $285. Again, not complicated but the code will likely still need to be cleared with an OBDII reader. If you want some more info to make a better decision, check out the B video I did that went over the actual shop repair instructions. th-cam.com/video/SwxLOvoVsQQ/w-d-xo.html
I should also mention, there are bypass options as well. Never tried them myself so I can’t speak for them but they seem like a good option. I kind of like that these actuators tone down the volume a bit when cruising (just a personal preference)
@@TheFenderman Thank you very much for all the info. I'll definitely check out the video! It's a coincidence that yoy posted this 5 days ago, and this is exactly what I needed.
My car just started making a rattling noise on acceleration. Code p1217. This video helped me 100%. Thank you
Right on! Glad to hear it! Thanks for watchin'!
I haven't been able to fix it yet but at least now I know what I'm up against.
I got the same code for my 2017 charger rt bc i loosened up the 3 bolts and sprayed white lithium grease inside where the spring is and I didn’t fully take it apart. Could that be the reason why my engine light came on for that code is bc I just tightened it back up without checking if the spring was properly secured?
I would clear the code and see if it comes back. If so, THEN get back under and see. To my knowledge the actuators are looking for a specific value through current to determine the position of the actuator and spring (part of the reason the bypass plates are necessary for the valve delete)
But it shouldn’t hurt anything to take the actuator off completely and inspect the spring.
I’ve heard of a few people greasing them, but to my knowledge two things happen to these commonly, the springs break because apparently they aren’t rated for many heat cycles, and the valves can get gummy.
I just got the new part and bam! Check engine light for the same thing.
Ooof. I think it just needs to have the code cleared, unless you did that already, then I would consider checking the harness for voltage or see if the actual valve on the inside is stuck. (rare but could happen, anything that moves might not after a while)
What’s up man great video, I’ve had the code come up P1217 come up before but it usually goes away after a few days. Would you say it’s just a fluke call? I’ve had flowmaster exhaust pipes put on this year, would you say that’s the problem. What should I do? I don’t wanna pay 3-500 for something that goes away after a few days
Thanks! I'm going to copy and paste something from the manual below this.
If I were you, I'd prop the rear end up and check the springs in each one of those to see if they're broken/bad and check the motion of the valves themselves. If they're stuck they could be causing problems...etc. There are some bypass options for these which remove the valve altogether and a dummy plate is put in to give the actuators something to play with tricking them into believing they're working. I think that would alleviate the issue altogether.
From the manual:
On vehicle key-on, the actuators will cycle from open to close to ensure they have the correct range of travel. If they are unattached from the valve body they will continue to cycle indefinitely and turn on an engine light after 7 seconds.
Hope this helps!
You said P1217 Active exhaust valve 1 is left side?
@@valenebarrios2358 I believe so, Valve 1 = Driver Side, Valve 2 = Passenger Side
i got p1217 on my altima....ususlly runs fine but strangely sometimes overheats when i run the heat. But ac and heat both work fine. I dont think its the thermostat, but maybe. Possibly air in the lines? I dont think there are any leaks and the radiator seems fine. So im just not sure. Wish the code was more specific
Where's that chart @ 3:21?
I was trying to find the forum I got that from. www.challengertalk.com/threads/highly-detailed-free-repair-manual.688196/ Not sure it has everything but it had what I needed. Kinda sketch, I have no idea if they changed anything about it by now.
@@TheFenderman Thanks!
Open butterfly to wide open. Weld; remove spring, no error ever again + better sound
I think these have a motor position and tension read, I'm not entirely sure but to me, it's easier just to keep it how it is for now. Besides, I've got plenty of other things to tinker with, actually too many lol.
Hi bro
So, you suggest to adjust the spring?
But, how to know the motor is fine?. Can we switch the driving mode while someone in under the car to see if it is actually work?
Howdy! This is straight from the manual:
"On vehicle key-on, the actuators will cycle from open to close to ensure they have the correct range of travel. If they are unattached from the valve body they will continue to cycle indefinitely and turn on an engine light after 7 seconds"
That's how I would test to see if the motors function.
@@TheFenderman ok
I will open it next time I get it on jack.
My light just came on this morning as I started my car for this same error P1217 2015 SRT as well. I'm not really mechanically savy; anything else you would recommend for someone like me? Just take it to the dealer?
Note, I also removed my mufflers about a year ago. Not sure if that has anything to do with this.
@@CalebJK316 Yikes, sorry to hear that! Just depends, if you have the means to get underneath of it safely and see what's wrong I'd strongly recommend it. It's not a part that's super complicated to get to or to replace.
(On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty I'd rate it a 2)
(Not to mention a $30 dollar spring vs a 3-500 dollar shop fee). Also it may just be a fluke and a simple code clearing could turn that light off. Worst case scenario the motor itself is bad which is right in the neighborhood of $285. Again, not complicated but the code will likely still need to be cleared with an OBDII reader.
If you want some more info to make a better decision, check out the B video I did that went over the actual shop repair instructions.
th-cam.com/video/SwxLOvoVsQQ/w-d-xo.html
I should also mention, there are bypass options as well. Never tried them myself so I can’t speak for them but they seem like a good option. I kind of like that these actuators tone down the volume a bit when cruising (just a personal preference)
@@TheFenderman Thank you very much for all the info. I'll definitely check out the video! It's a coincidence that yoy posted this 5 days ago, and this is exactly what I needed.
@@CalebJK316Hey I'm glad to be of some assistance! Hope you get it figured out and back to enjoying your ride!
What’s that whole piece called ?
Should be "Exhaust Valve Actuator."