Timber Framing Tips: Choosing The Right Trees for Timbers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2024
- Timber Framing Tips: Choosing The Right Trees for Timbers. Let's take a walk in the woods and see what happens. These are the woods that are behind my house and they are home to perfect timbers for timber framing but alas, I do not own the woods so I can't take the trees but it does make us a perfect place to demonstrate the art of choosing timbers. Today we are looking at a few species of trees that are great and some that are not so great.
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Something about going out in the woods and picking the trees to build a home for the family that is unspeakably appealing to me. Very informative,thank you for your time with this video.
Great video! If someone has a mixed species woodlot, there is the possibility of making a mixed frame. Most of the antique hewn post and beam frames are just that. Oak is used in posts and large pine beams are popular for plates, roof trusses and cross tie beams. Peeled red pine are commonly used for rafters in some designs and various hardwoods show up as floor joists. In Ohio, walnut was used for timber framing, because it has rot resistance. Old growth pine made for durable sills, but I would use pressure treated lumber today. Massive timbers compensated for irregular field stone foundations. Modern concrete slabs and frost walls make the big sills unnecessary. Thanks for making the videos, they are thoughtful and very informative.
Thank-you for this, also!
That was great Jim. Nomatter if we're new to timber framing or an old timer, this is a subject that is the most important to woodworking !!!! Thanks
Hello Bruce.
Hi Jim what a lovely relaxing and educational video really enjoyed it ,Thanks Paul
Morning Jim. Some good tips. The Hickory, however, would come down for safety sake if nothing else. You could always build a smoker to use it in, if nothing else.
In forestry school we used wooden Cali pets to measure doh. That goes back a few years though. Good info video, thanks Jim
Wooden calipers to measure dbh
That's a big ass sugar maple! At least the biggest I've seen!(31 years young) Thank you for this video! Highly informative!
Morning Jim.... wood species 101, a nice day for it. Most of the wood on my property is white pine, so that's obviously what I used for my home, though there are a few spruce and hemlock in there too. I have a ton of huge white pine left that would be too big for a log home, but great for lumber and beams. I'm the only one in my area that has not had their trees logged off. I enjoy looking at them and who knows, maybe someday I'll own a mill and start the process of becoming a Sawyer. But more likely, the trees will always be there.
Just keep an eye out for sick or dying ones and take them down as needed for safety. Also, thinning for the purposes of maintaining a healthy woods/forest is part of the responsibility of owning land like that. Mill the ones that need to be taken down for the overall health of the woods.
Good discussion on tree selection, the hard part comes when the tree is down and getting it out of the woods.💚💜
Thank you for a walk in the woods Prof and the information was helpful
I am definitely more informed now! I'd be set up if I had a sawmill, about all I have on my hillside is huge white pines and even huger hickories and live oaks. Great info, Jim!
Love oak is great for a sawn frame boat, but no long straight runs for timbers for sure.
Nice to see you in the wood.
This video Makes America Great…🇺🇸
Great talk jim. I have a ton of Hemlock, cherry, beach, and cucumber magnolia. Wish i had white oak. But hey gota start some where. Get my Hodson mill in 3 weeks😁
Congrats on the mill, I hope it does everything you want.
Pine being a softwood, is a relatively light wood to use as well. White oak , a hardwood, is pretty heavy in comparison. So if you are milling and timber framing solo, weight of your trees is a consideration.
Most of that difference is in the water content of the freshly felled logs. But yeah, even dry oak is heavier than pine.
You are the best Jim!! Thank you my brother!
That maple was huge. Living in the prairies and crosstimbers region i dont see many trees that nice. Of course tornadoes and lightning takes its toll on the tall cottonwoods. Nice video in the woods in your area. Thanks
That one is a big one. I'd like to buy that property eventually just for those woods.
@@TheTradesmanChannel so, are you saying you were trespassing? Ha ha ha. I'm sure you got permission. Wouldn't want to get shot carrying an ax in someone else's woods. LOL
@@thomasarussellsr it's owned by a construction conglomerate about 500 miles away. Used to be family land.
@@TheTradesmanChannel oh, then they can't see you. Got it😉😉
Dear Jim,
Crumbs I can't remember when you were that clean shaven!!! That aside a very educational explanation as to what to consider when building a timber frame. Very well done. Kind regards.
Nice walk in the woods. that reminds me time to pick up hunting tags.
That first white pine is a sweetie. I knew it! right there at 3:48 a classic tree hugger! Good tree review. I am so lucky I have way too much spruce around and get to use is for many projects, at least its strong. Some talk on the scantlings would be a great topic for the timber stand, I really like hard wood braces, cut ahead and dried then cut the joinery on them, maybe a good use for some of those cull hard woods, shorter pieces and the bow you are likely to get can be put to the braces advantage.
Always a wealth of info great video Jim 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
Thank you Alex
Thanks Jim, always learn something from you !
Nice video, one of my favourite stages of a build. You learn to read a tree if you do it long enough. If that big old maple was still healthy, I'd probably never cut it....just not enough of those beauties left these days.
Same here on the maple.
I'd sure tap it for syrup, if it produces enough sap to do so, or of course if you have multiples to tap, and the know-how to make the syrup from it.
@@thomasarussellsr You could probably put three taps on that sucker!
@@DovetailTimberworks yeah, she was a big one, that's for sure.
Beautiful little video.
Love that maple tree.
Thank you
Thanks for this Jim, a really nice introduction to selecting trees for timber framing. I am fortunate to have a small wood next to the house here in England, and there are many trees (mostly oak) I would love to take for conversion. Whilst I have the gear in my workshop, and a big f-off chainsaw mill, the biggest issues facing me are twofold: Firstly, the need to (in most cases) fell three or four other trees to make a suitable landing spot for the one that I want (seems a massive shame, and is really quite destructive in a small woodland area). Second, the issue of extraction - if I cut a nice 16 foot long 10x8, how do I move it from the woods to the workshop..? This needs careful consideration, as that piece of green timber will weight an absolute ton! For me sadly this means I go to a mill and pay a premium price for cutting, planing and delivery right to where I want it. The nice thing is I can walk in the woods and drool over the trees I would love to use... :-)
Tractor, winch, and chain.
Very nice woods there!
I like that spot.
I really like this channel, it's very interesting. I've always loved timber frame buildings. Thanks for the info and sharing your experience with us.
Thank you for watching
Beautiful, thank-you!
Here in the UK, Southern England at least, I feel that productive woods are few and not £-accessible to us paupers. Ah well . . .
I bet there isn't much forest left in the UK.
I have been timber framing and taiking down barns and puting them up since I was 9
I bet you've seen a lot stuff in that time.
Fantastic and informative. We are getting into large beams from locally salvaged oak and pine trees here in Texas. One thing that I must disagree with, actually MESQUITE is the most dimensionally stable species in North America. It is FAR FAR MORE stable than Fir. But I am sure you are coming from a perspective of traditional logging and timber applications. I would also consider Bald Cypress more stable than Fir. Once again, these are non-traditional species for timber frame construction.
Hi Jim. Great advice. I am a fan of whi6 pine also.
Very informative and accurate as per usual Jim ! 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Seeing this late. Just wondering why you would avoid red pine? Great video!
Evening Jim
Great video. Very informative 👍
Excellent information thank you for sharing!
Good morning Stephen.
Nice! I always thought of cottonwood as a worthless wood due to its its incredibly high moisture levels. By the time it drys out its rotten. Guess i am wrong or you wouldn't have talked about it.
Nice video again Jim!
It's not my first choice but in a pinch you use what you have. I have some kicking around here that's been outside for about eight years, no rot.
Great info. I'll never use it, but I enjoyed it a lot.
Never say never.
good info, thanks
Great informative video. You got a new subscriber!
I just discovered your channel. I really do like it, and I have subscribed. I happened to notice that you have a Hudson sawmill. I am very close to pulling the trigger on one. I will check out the other videos in your series. Thanks!
Nice to meet you. The Hudson is a good mill and they're good people. Welcome aboard.
Jim, So nice to walk in the Forest with you this morning. It's actually perfect timing as I just finished a Book by Dr.Erwin Thoma "A Future With Natural Wood". He talks about felling trees in winter when they are most dormant. This coincides with the "New Moon in Capricorn" (between Christmas and New Years)This will reduce splitting, checking, twisting, insect infestation and inhibits fungus growth. Also when a tree is felled have the top of the tree downhill and leave the branches on for as long as possible . When a tree is felled it tries to seed one last time so this moves moisture up into the branches and helps to dry the wood more evenly. There's more but I need more coffee. See you in the Forest.....
He is right on. Girtling the trees in the spring works well too on resinous trees.
I want to build a timber frame from Silver Oak tree (Grevillea robusta), the tree grows tall and has less branches. But I haven’t seen anyone using this wood for the purpose, hence I am ambiguous.
Can you please assist me on this, this timber has good decay resistance and is used in making windows, however it’s nit popular like teak or other trees hence available at very good price.
Here this tree is grown as a shade tree for coffee plantation.
Choosing the right trees for Timbers is something I never thought that much of. I am sure you have found beautiful trees that you have wanted to take but the next not often spoken challenge is how you get them out of the woods and back to the sawmill. I'm sure a tractor would be most efficient. A four-wheeler wouldn't have enough guts to get them out unless you have them on a small trailer you could pull with the wheeler to get them back to the timber frame.
-Will
Depending on the size of the tree, and the health and species of "pack" animal, 1-2 horses or oxen will do the trick as well. But who has time to train the oxen these days? And most people around my parts either have Tennessee Walkers, quarter horses, or racing stock thoroughbreds. A good team of Amish-bred work horses can pull way more than most people think. Clydesdales are another strong choice. Hey, if they can pull a 40klb beer wagon, why not a tree or two?
However, trying to ride one of these massive beasts could leave your hip out of socket. Not to mention the challenges of mounting and dismounting a horse who's back is at eye level or higher.
Great info thanks
Thanks for the knowledge
Thumbs up just for that Intro!
Hey buddy, how you been?
TheTradesmanChannel unbelievably busy. Remodeling 3 houses, building a spring house, fixing the barn, digging septic systems... lol trying to keep the fiancé happy in between it all. Missed a lot of TH-cam and this was a good video to come back to. Gotta catch up to what you are up to and Nathan.
Great advice Jim
What a great maple that was. Need to leave big trees like those. Not a lot around...
You are right
Good content Jim!
Thanks Jim
Thanks for the informative vids. Do you provide consulting for timber frame builds? I’m in the Cincinnati area.
Normally I do not but I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have.
Interested to hear anything more you have to say about hemlock and beech.
What about yellow pine
Yellow pine will work, just work it fast.
Good video, Thank you
Jim,
Enjoyed today's video. Very informative and how can you beat a walkin the woods?
My 40 acres has many poplar that are 20"or more (chest High). I don't think these are the same as the" cotton woods" you spoke of. Or am I wrong? What's your assessment of poplar ( also known as pople in these part)
SWWW
It's very close to the same wood, close enough to where they sell it as the same thing wherever you buy lumber. If you can work the timbers fast and put the frame up fast I would use it if that's what you have.
What is your view on red and pin oak .I plan to build with what I have in my woods. It will be the most economical TF due to the financial pantzing of an ugly dissolution But it will look like it belongs.
Both with work fine, pin oak probably better.
Selection of the correct timber type is imperative.When measuring or cutting the timber for a window moulding pay attention to even perimeter lengths of a rectangle or square.Also concentrate on correct timber width.
Great video! Very helpful. What about red oak?
Red Oak will work too.
I live in NC and just bought a farm with 50 acres of timber. The pines are huge (28-30" dia) and seem like they would make great timber for my timber frame house. I suspect they may be loblolly. If so, how is loblolly pine as a timber with regard to shrinkage and strength vs Eastern White Pine?
I'm honestly not sure how that particular species is to deal with but I can do some digging.
Just curious....why stay away from red pine for timbers? It makes beautiful lumber...
Bugs and rot issues, if that's all you have then run with it but really seal the wood.
Great content and nice video quality... Mr. Chickadee watch out!
That guy is talented.
Yeah I respect his patience but your videos are a more practical approach to woodworking... i do enjoy the unfiltered commentary as well!
Thank you. I try to keep my content relatable to guys like me.
Hey Jim.
I want to build an 1850s hand hewn log home using tulip poplar on my land.
Any thoughts?
Treat the poplar really well for water resistance as well as insects. Poplar has about the same engineering loads as white pine. Also work the timber fast, poplar likes to move as it dries out.
Thank you sir for the information!!!
Thank you for watching.
In my area poplar is very plentiful what is your opinion on it?
I'd use it, about the same engineering properties as white pine, just twists a little. Cut it green and put it up green.
We have 100 acres at our disposal in middle TN, but our primary tree is poplar. Is poplar ok for timber framing ?
It sure is.
What's your opinion of Southern Yellow Pine as a timber framing wood?
Used quite a bit in lumber for new construction houses, but the strength there is in multiple studs and sheathing. It is a softer pine, so, the size of the timbers for a decent span would quickly out-grow the available stock. IMHO
People use it, just narrower spans.
Awesome
So where are you finding white pine and shag bark both growing? Seems odd.
Not odd where I live in the northeast.
Th house I bought was built in the 90s with white pine siding, it’s not in great shape and I just bought 3,500 board foot of more white pine, I’m going to re side it, is there any way to keep the carpenter bees from this new siding? Thanks
Treat the wood with borates, that will also help the wood resist rotting.
What Jim said, or use the Sho-sugi-ban technique. There are loads of videos on using this technique across TH-cam. Of course you kinda have to love the look of scorched/burnt wood. It makes the wood pest, water, and fire resistant if done properly. The Japanese have used it for centuries and have wooden buildings/temples that are hundreds of years old.
Thomas Russell, I checked out that borate product, it was $45 a gallon, I’ve got 3,500 board feet to put up, does a gallon stretch very far and can I stain over top of it after it dries? Sorry to keep bothering you about it, I’m 44 now and don’t want to ever have to redo my siding, especially when I’m 70!
Love to walk the wood it has something
What about white ash for timber framing?
Perfect for pegs, that's what I use. I feel it would make a good timber also.
That big sugar maple may not be good for timber framing but that does look like a college fund for one of the kids in the future.
Thank you! I had no idea that I had as much usable lumber on my property. Mostly all very tall white oak (chestnut oak). Keep safe.
Very nice, you are a lucky man. Thank you for watching.
What about yellow pine?
Yellow pine is strong but unstable in timber form. It tends to twist and warp quite a bit. It's one of those that you want to get the frame up quickly while it's still quite green.
I married Shirley!!! She is my beautiful wife now!!
Now that is a beautiful thing, you tell her I said congrats.
Congrats!
Thomas Russell , thank you sir.
What. You mean you DON'T have to count the number of leaves on a branch, and measure how far down the tap root goes? Whyyyyy I aughta clobber the guy! Excuse me. I have to go see a man about... Um, about a dog. Yeah, I gotta go see a man about a dog. Can I borrow your axe?
Sure