Mini Jet Boat To Inboard Surface Drive, Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2021
- The mini jet boat gets changed into a inboard tunnel hull surface drive running a honda clone 212cc 6.5hp engine, a fair bit of lathe work and welding went into making it hope it works!
/ dkthewelder
Get tools and parts here help support my channel dkthewelder.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
oh man that blurring out the gross hole was a great touch! no wonder your a TH-cam phenomenon
Yeah didn’t want to hurt anyone’s eyes
A pipe slightly larger in circumference than the prop shaft, with bearings on each end, ang weld a upside down shark fin on the bottom of that pipe so that when rocks come along it raises the propeller and prevents them from striking the bottom or rocks and bouncing up. With a sort of spring or gas shock to keep it at the lowest position possible. And the rudderS should be on each side of the prop-wash. Similar in configuration to the Lockheed p-38 lightning, twin boom OR twintail aircraft from WW-II. Have a pipe that goes out next to you so that you can rest your elbow on it and have your hand on the end and steer.
Edit: I made this comment after watching the first third of this video and did not see that you did something similar to what I was talking about already. LOL
Tunnel/surface drive hybrid ....excellent
Thanks it will be cool if it works!
Great job Daniel. It seemed like it was pushing back at you pretty good. I'd be tempted to just bolt on an old 40HP two stroke outboard and call it good! I'm eager to see this flying down the river
I’m looking for a 25-40 hp outboard for the boat I’m using as the test tub , but there is a lot more to that project!
Of course it will work, It'll go faster, further and deeper then even before! Great project!
I did the test it did work, video out soon
You and your daughter are having to much fun, it takes a lot of guts to build with everyone watching when you don’t know if it’s going to work. That stream looked like it could be good fishing? Good video!
Flex Seal! Love it. This boat is awesome.
Haha thanks
Every time I search for an idea I have for my jon boat I'm building, you show up and I love it! Keep up the good work man!
Haha thanks! More videos coming
Man. Hit the like just for the insane test of one boat inside of another boat.
Haha thanks 👍
Good to know I'm not the only Kiwi doing crazy shit in his shed
Thanks. I looked at your channel that jet go kart looks cool ! Did it go fast?
It's in our DNA I think mate! I'm in a shed in Idaho building a 500mph car.
@@nzsaltflatsracer8054 nice one ! What car is it?
@@DktheWelder It's a 4WD 3500hp streamliner. No website, no social media, no flag waving, just another Kiwi in a shed. Will be at Bonneville next year.
@@nzsaltflatsracer8054 fuck yea..
Looks like a winner mate.
I hope so !
Great job! That was a lot of work!
Thank you! I have a test video coming out soon , also your channel looks interesting I will check it out soon!
You have one nice shop buddy good job
that is where I work i am lucky my boss lets me do projects after hours
With such a set of tools, you can make more rational promising projects for outboard motors ... Starting from the Arneson drive, ending airboats
Amazing work!!
Thanks a lot!
It looks very much like a disappearing propeller boat a dispro or dippy boat. Very popular here in Ontario Canada about 100 years ago.
O that is interesting! Never heard of that
id move exhaust cause it'll cause an air pocket( exhaust) in your tunnel hull making it cavitate. if you can run it out past prop youd see a good difference
ok thanks! test video out soon
Looking good , One suggestion , You need a guard over that drive shaft to protect your boy bits incase there is a failure.
haha good idea!
F**K YEH! New channel, new shit, new life. Love it man! Keep up the goodness! 🤙
Thanks mate👍
Love your work!
Thanks 👍
A nice drive system.
The u-joint should be as strait as possible. At that angle the connecting shaft will not run at a constant speed. In between the connecting shaft and the prop shaft there is a cv-joint so the prop rpm is not constant.
Maybe you could tilt the motor backwards to straiten out that u-joint angle?
U-joints are mostly used in pairs with the in- and output shafts parallel. In this set up the speed of both shafts is constant. Only the connecting shaft is fluctuating in speed. On the connecting shaft the u-joints have to be mounted in the same plane.
By the way i am from the Netherlans.
so I have set the driveshaft wrong? are they supposed to be 90 degrees out from each other? thanks for the comment
@@DktheWelder
The mistake you made is to use a cv joint and an U joint combined. The angle on the U joint is by the looks of it between 20° and 25° this means the connecting shaft is not turning at a constant velocity (cv). The maximum angle of a cv- or U joint is about 30°. A cv joint is maxed out at that angle an U joint starts to fluctuate in rpm quite severe at or above that angle. Also the resistance inside the joint gets progressive more severe.
If you use two u joints in pairs the input and output shaft should be more or less parallel. The U joints on the connecting schaft be mounted in the same plane. That means if you look at the connecting shaft you have to see both.
3--------C like this, the 3 and the C represent both the U off an U joint witch is connected at the connecting shaft.
Yo can also replace the one U joint by a cv joint an there is no problem with axels not running parallel or joints at different angles. This is why they are used in front wheel drive cars, those have to steer with the driven wheels.
Edit.
What do you mean by the 90° out from eachother? (Last sentence)
@@henkormel5610 I am meaning the faze I think, the radial orientation of the two u joints are in line but maybe should be twisted 90 degrees? Also I understand now what you mean the motor output and shaft aren’t parallel it does shake a fair bit, I have a small cv joint I could use this would be better? I am uploading the test video as we speak would like an advice you give. Also you sound smart if you want to give more advice pm me on Facebook on my page. I get so many messages on TH-cam now I have to ignore some of them
@@DktheWelder
The U's of the U joints connected to the connecting shaft should be in the same plane, not 90° offset. If you put them 90°offset you double the problem. Just yest it by turning it by hand then you can feel with you other hand what's happening. The more extreme the angle (close to 90°) the better you see and feel what's happening.
You use a 6,5 hp engine? A small kei car has max 660cm³ and about 30hp. The drivetrain has a 10 to 1 reduction, or there about. The torc those drive axels have to sustain is a factor 30 more than in your application.
The revs should not be a problem. In a car this is about 750-800 rpm. Maybe for safety a shrapnel catcher around the cv joint is no luxure. The revs are ten times design spec, the centrifugal forces on th drive balls are 100 times design spec. The cups are designed for a torc that is about 100 times bigger than the torque of the 2 stroke. That torque reacts radial on to the cup, it should be fine. Is this little cv joint of a kei car?
It is a bit off a mess, that's how my head works. I am not planned to join Facebook.
@@henkormel5610 ok, yes that makes sense . The u joints are off a quad bike I think a guard over top is a good idea, it does shake a bit while running making the angle straighter may fix this , thanks 👍
If you're having trouble with parts pulling this way n that when you weld them, rig something up to make the workpiece vibrate while you weld it.
Rob Wendland, top fuel dragster team crew chief, demonstrated this recently. He rigged up an old school back massager to his welding table.
The vibration helps the filler mix with the base metal, making for stronger weld, and it relieves internal stresses.
Wow I have never heard of that ! Maybe something to try in the future
Never heard of that either and I have been welding for over 20 years. Relieves internal stresses, just like a good back message 😀
great job...jet was good idea..but this maybe better;;;i like the tunnel to help funnel a nice channel of water to the prop..cant wait to see the bird fly.!>
thanks, I have been for a test and its pretty good ! video out soon
I like the dyno mate
Its cool yo be able to get an idea of whether or not it’s going to work
Nice Work New Sub
Thanks 👍
I always figured on salvaging the front A frames, knuckle and CV shaft from a front wheel drive car. Mounting the frames to the transom and having a prop where the wheel would normally be. A tiller arm or hydraulic cyl. Could be used for steering and trim. I guess a 4 wheeler suspension would be a better fit for small boats. All of this is just a refined version of what is known in TN. As a Real foot Lake boat. I hate jet drives. They're too inefficient and really only good for shallow running. You are definitely on to the right idea. The prop can run higher than the boat bottom just because the waters tendency to spray upward as it leaves the transom.
Thanks ! People really like jet drives but the have plenty of limitations as you said , hopscotch what I’m trying works!
@@DktheWelder a good chopper prop will work wonders. They love running half submerged. I look forward to seeing it rip
Doing great.
Ha ha crack up sounded like you were rotary hoeing the garden.looks fun bro
Haha just watering the lawn
Have you thought about making a lathe steady rest you can set up on your bench top or welding table to keep things perfectly aligned when welding?
Cool idea
Mate that’s wicked it’s guna haul balls goodonya cheers
Thanks! I don’t think it will be that fast hopefully it is good for the little rivers
@@DktheWelder it might take the bigger prop ok there a Torquay little motor man
Compare the pitch of surface drive props to the one you have. Also, have you considered diffusing the exhaust under the hull to reduce the wetted area drag?
I had issues with the exhaust on the test of the latest video, had water feeding back into the motor once shut off
My prediction: it will work great but it will leak a little
Yeah lm Wondering if that rubber sock will get ripped off
The problem is that the jet drive is out-of the water, it has nothing to push against. If the jet drive was below the waterline even when in motion you will have better results. Have you ever seen any jet ski or jet boat with the unit above the water? You have propulsion, just nothing to propel against.
JetSkis and jet boats all exit above the waterline when on plane , only below the waterline at rest . My one is flat bottom so sits a bit high when going slow, so many people think that it needs to be underwater. You can google it if you like 👍
Well new to the channel but hate seeing the jet idea tossed. It seems like just like a regular prop boat the pitch and length of your impeller could have been changed to create more thrust. I'm sure the pitch on the new propeller isn't for racing either so not sure how fast your going to go.
I’m building a jet board at the moment and will be trying different impeller designs with the 3d printer then cast an impeller from aluminium
Great video mate , where did you get that prop and how much did it cost?
They are sps longtail props there is a guy in New Zealand importing them he gave me some for free so they must be cheap $10 -$20 maybe? You can get them on Alibaba.com for a few dollars
You made yourself a pot of rubber gaiter tea. Yummy.
Maybe the jet itself needs to be lower in the water, and the front of the water inlet should be smooth as possible. That may help with the speed of the boat especially the water intake.
It's not jet boat it onboard now
2 minutes in an im fcukin subbin ya! Like ya style brother 👍. Andy LIVERPOOL UK👊✊💨💨💨
Thanks! Nice to someone from the UK watching
Nylon is nasty stuff to machine and not the best for bushings. I use Acetal from most everything that needs to made from plastic. It machines beautifully, and while I have used it to make bushings, they were in a low speed application. OK I just checked its spec, and it is fine for bearing type bushes. I get mine from Blenheim Engineering paying something like $10 for 300m of 25mm diameter.
Acetal? Ok I will look into that I might have ruined that bush already, we had a few plastics at work that one I used is an oil enriched plastic the boss said it would work but it does seem soft
@@DktheWelder Look for Delrin as well, (same thing). If you can't find it up your way I can put some in the post for you. I've only got 30.5mm bar at the moment, but I'll be passing Blenheim Engineering tomorrow.
@@TrevorDennis100 o cool, Delrin is what longtails use as the bush
Yep, nylon sucks up water and swells up.
What did you use the the universal joint?
Why was the exhaust port blurred?
Fk yeah 😎 love your style!!!
Thanks 👍
I think you need to choose whether it's a tunnel drive, or a surface drive..
It doesn’t surface drive very well but might do wth more power
@@DktheWelder A surface drive has a plate in front of the prop, so it can ventilate correctly.
You ever thought of constructing a parasail motor
I have thought of that , my dad has an old hang glider he wants to give me but I have a lot going on right now maybe in the future
Do you have DXF boat plans ?
Shaft directly into the bush -- that’s what she said 😂
👍
You could have cavitation with the exhaust being in front of the prop
yes I worried about that but have bigger issues! test video out soon!
Where did you put a thrust bearing? I missed that part.
That was a while ago . I think I had a ball bearing in the shaft somewhere and just a plastic bush at the end by the prop
Hey Daniel where are your priorities man.Get back to the buggy Now!!!!!!!!! Love from Puerto Rico
I will get back to it soon
🔥 🔥 🔥
It will work bro👍
I hope so!
@@DktheWelder The prop is bigger than the jet prop it will get up on plain
@@skinnycains4448 I think being able to adjust the trim will help too
the leaks are your only issue. Look up Thailand Long Tail Racing for ideas
Those are cool , they have the same props as what I’m using
Exhaust is going to make the prop cavitate
I was thinking that ! I hope it doesn’t
What, no test drive?
Next weekend!
Should have overdriven the impeller shaft 2:1
Sounded like you had plenty of power to do it.
Yes it had extra power left I tried gearing it up with another motor didn’t really work , I need to make another jet unit about 20-30% bigger would be ideal I think
@@DktheWelder did you try making the exit nozzle smaller?
lol 😂 hell yeah mate parts department
Fuckin send it mate 🤙🤙🤙🤙
If you want a hard task done quickly, get a lazy person to do it, they'll find the most efficient way to do something.
Why sit there for 20 minutes manually threading when you could just chuck it in the lathe and thread using the chuck key? Probably saved you a couple minutes doing it that way anyways.
I know ! Also cutting the thread with the lathe takes me ages and I hate it haha
What a kiwi
And proud of it haha
If that prop shaft gives way you are going to be singing Saprano.............
haha maybe i should make a guard up!
do you eat your potato and gravy and dunk you chips before you eat your KFC chicken or just all at the same time?
Not enough power in the jet boat ,my 12 foot Vnose punt runs 110hp
Yeah jet boats are very power hungry hopefully my next one will be powerful enough
I’ll stick with a jet boat
real dinky boat
It is tiny , I have an electric jet unit in it now I’m trying to get working
There are already a million such options, especially among Asians ...
😆