This is like cocaine for a machinist, you explain nearly everything you do, no guessing. And so much to learn... keep up the good work! Edit: again the half/half approach is quite nice, I often have to drill 120mm dia to depths of 300-500mm and than roughing those to 200-215mm in dia, will try it next time!
Thanks for yet another great video. This is one of those channels where I scroll through the comments just to see if there are ongoing conversations where I can learn a bit more. Very interesting. Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas. I have yet to work on pieces that large but that time is going to be sometime next year when I get moved to larger lathe. Your videos are definitely good source material for how to work on large pieces
Hey Peter nothing better than a cup of coffee and a chunk of steel to go with it thanks for all your videos, and to you and your family have a blessed and Merry Christmas
at our shop, for rough cut drilling, we use self centering 3 jaw chucks, disposable spade bits, and for larger id's going from 2.75 to 11.25, we use modified trepanning stems
lol .. I learned something new .. never think of doing the roughing passes like that with the boring bar if u have long chips ... in some cases it will trash the tool and eject the part :)
Thanks Bill. The OD turn only goes up to the jaws. The rest gets milled away when the part gets turned around. There is actually only a small section of the OD left. If you look closely at the previous videos. You will be able to see what I mean. The new bars will be able to turn the whole ID complete from the first end. All that will be necessary is the chamfer on the other end. This ID will be held to a close size for the third operations mandrel.
Bearing in mind the time of year, I thought that lump of metal in the first shots was a yule log, and you was going to do some wood engraving. Anyways, Happy Christmas to y'all
I´m a machinist from germany and i have to tell that you are working a totally different way than i do! I´ts so nice to see how many ways u can go to your finished product! i think you are doing to really good job at you company! Keep on going I really like your videos! Greeting from germany! :)
Considering the time it took you to clock the raw billet up, wouldnt it just have been better to take cuts above the diameter, for example if the stock billet is 250mm, tell the programming software that the billet is 300mm or above? I liked the boring of the inside diameter in stages though.
Merry Christmas Peter. Greetings from Poland. I was afraid when you didn't use pilot hole for such a big and long hole. I have bad experience from my past. Hole was comletely bad. PS. I preffer using both rotation, e.g. 80% for drill and the rest for a part.
I'm curious to see if you have any tricks up your sleeve for chipbreaking in duplex stainless steel. The last time I turned duplex 2205 in a small bore the chipbreaking become a huge problem for productivity. Perhaps with your high pressure through coolant it won't pose a problem.
Hi Peter, How do you like your Bison chucks, I got a 160mm Bison 3 jaws scroll cast iron standard chuck a while ago it runs within 0.5/100mm equal to 2 tenths. Also a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours.
A total shot in the dark here, The turning spindle is probably a lot more powerful that the milling spindle. The milling spindle would need to lock the tool, I'm not sure if it's a mechanical lock, a brake, or a magnet. But I know that locking something down and pressing against it would be better suited for the larger motor due to its increased mass, and (im assuming) higher holding power. Ie the turning spindle.
You really should look into trepanning. That is a perfect example why it's the best way to go. If you have a minute take a look at how I do this kind of work. Thanks if you do. 👍
Take notice: the part that is shown in this video is not the actual material, it's a test/ setup parts out of "cheap" steel. The material for the real parts made from super duplex are hollow already - shown at 12:32. Btw, trepanning is really cool. I was aware of this, but didn't know the proper name. Thanks!
@@bigbattenberg Hey buddy, yeah we know that, but figured these operations would be preformed the same on the real part hits as you say a "test". Now that I've watched the whole vid again it looked like perhaps it showed the Super Duplex on those pallets for just a brief second in the video which were already a tubular stock. I should have known never to second guess Peter. lol Did you check out userwl's channel? He trepans some pretty large hard material.
I bought it from our local Northern tool store. Although I have been back to the store and don’t see any more there. It says Titan something on it. It’s a 3/4” drive.
How much programming, if any, do you do in mazatrol? When I was running mazak I know I could crack out simple 2 axis programs at the machine way faster then in cad. Thanks for video, keep up the good work.
This would have been easy with Mazatrol. I should have shown that for this video. For lathe work I do like Mazatrol . For milling I don’t care for it. That being said I very seldom use it except for boring jaws. Thanks Jerry K.
It's nice to see a new video now and then from you. But at the end it's a shame u didn't use a super easy to make mazatrol program to face-off the part and create a small deburr on the face and length of the part. No need for a manual labor. But now i'm nitpicking. 😁
May I ask you how much the biggest rpm what you are using in a billetsize like this? It was sticking out quiet a lot in the beginning, and you hold on only 1.5” long on a rough surface. Duplex is bloody heavy as well by the way. Do you calculate somehow what is the smallest surface what you are holding in these cases? I would just turn a small register face first gently with small rpm and depth of cut, because I would worry, maybe the billet will fly out from the spindle. You are much braver then me. Do you calculate somehow or work with feeling? Thanks and great videos
The chucks jaws have serrations on them. When it’s tightly chucked the part is held very securely. Also this is a manual 4 jaw chuck. It will hold a part more securely than a hydraulic chuck. It won’t open/reduce its holding force with RPM. The speed is also limited to a max of 500 RPM in the program.
Edge Precision thank yor for the quick reply. Most of the time I do make small parts (1” diameter or smaller) and thats why it could be scary for me when occasionally I do have to work on some of the bigger machines and I can hear the main spindle mouring under the weight. Thats why I am wasn’t sure what are the rules about weight and sticking out length. But thank you for the information.
SuperDuplex is also used in the fabrication of lightweight 300m decompression chambers in hyperbaric lifeboats....very high tensile strength to weight ratio.
David Lawrence this chamber is fitted inside a hyperbaric lifeboat. This lifeboat chamber has a docking flange connected to the ship’s saturation dive system. Should an emergency require evacuation of the saturation divers, they are locked into the hyperbaric escape chamber and the lifeboat is then locked off and launched, allowing the divers (under pressure) a reasonable chance of survival. This lifeboat and chamber is self sustaining for up to 72 hours, within which period they can be locked into a shore based reception facility, or connected too a ship based life support package, at which time they will be slowly surfaced ( usually 1 m / hr ) .
In this video a ER32 collet chuck is holding a short Noga arm. I have recently changed to using a ER40 chuck because I needed the ER32 chuck for a setup. And I rarely use the ER40 chuck. Does that answer your question?
@@Meeky815 anything that holds the indicator arm. I only used that because it was, at the time a extra chuck. A ER25 would probably be better. I could give more clearance in some situations.
I'm not sure what you are asking? Run out is the error in relation the ideal center-line. So indicated run out is when you use a dial indicator it is the reading you get with the indicator while sweeping the surface in question while rotating the part or indicator on the surface to check. The actual run out of the center-line is half the total indicated run out.
It’s been a while. This material cert says it has over 25% chrome content. It will be difficult. They are here at Centerline making some of these parts as well. The guys running those parts say they are having trouble with inserted milling tools (feed mills). But carbide endmills are holding up OK. We shall see.
If you a talking about the camera bag. It so thin I bought at our local camera store. The only thing I can tell you is it has a tag that says Think Tank on it. I don’t know if that helps.
1st step: centering 2nd step: turn diameter for back stay 3rd step: turn face and drill Also appropriate: take a chuck with 3 or 6 jaws - justify is not needed
Not when it held in these serrated hard jaws. I have turned longer than this. If it was held in regular jaws yes I would be using the steady rest to face and center drill. Do the OD than the steady rest to do the bore.
It’s kind of a judgment call. If you try to do a cut out on the end and get a bunch of chatter/ vibration you need support. I should say it is absolutely essential to limit the RPM for the facing cuts. With a hydraulic chuck it will loose grip ( open up) on the part at high RPM. With this manual 4- jaw chuck you don’t have that problem. But it’s still good to limit the speed.
This is like cocaine for a machinist, you explain nearly everything you do, no guessing. And so much to learn... keep up the good work!
Edit: again the half/half approach is quite nice, I often have to drill 120mm dia to depths of 300-500mm and than roughing those to 200-215mm in dia, will try it next time!
Strothy2 I’d suggest drilling 20-50 mm past half way on the first end to make sure the cuttings don’t get packed in behind the boring bar.
It´s really rare to see a master of his own craft at work, to such intimate details. I truly thank you for sharing this.
Thanks for yet another great video. This is one of those channels where I scroll through the comments just to see if there are ongoing conversations where I can learn a bit more. Very interesting.
Merry Christmas!
Lmao... peter...you have a typical machinist sick sense of humor.... noone else here caught that?
Really looking forward to seeing this job done. :) Keep up the great work, Peter. It's educational, informative and motivational.
Merry Christmas, glad to see someone else more experienced than I makes a practice piece
Quality is fine for me. That's a hell of a 'drop'! Merry Christmas and best wishes for the new year. Thanks for making these videos.
Merry Christmas and thanks for the videos !
Merry Christmas to you and yours Peter! Another great video that is applicable on a manual lathe! Thanks amigo!
Merry Christmas. I have yet to work on pieces that large but that time is going to be sometime next year when I get moved to larger lathe. Your videos are definitely good source material for how to work on large pieces
Mary Christmas Peter to you and all your , thanks for your hard work this year. Sam
Merry Christmas Peter, you make some interesting videos.
Merry Christmas and a prosperous new year!
Good video Peter and Merry Christmas to you!
Thank you for another great video, lots of good info, and best wishes for Xmas and the New Year. Feliz Navidad from New Zealand.
Merry Christmas, Peter! 🎄🎁
Merry Christmas to you and yours Peter! Thanks
Another great video! Merry Christmas!
Thanks again and have a good holiday.
Man I love watching that machine and this channel. Thanks Peter, saw your new Silent Bars on Insta, those look impressive can't wait to see the run.
what is the name of his insta channel?
its ok I got it
Great video, thanks Peter!
Hey Peter nothing better than a cup of coffee and a chunk of steel to go with it thanks for all your videos, and to you and your family have a blessed and Merry Christmas
Happy Christmas mate! Hope you have a good one!
Merry Christmas to you too!
you are a true machining expert
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Merry Christmas!! Thank you again for sharing, your efforts are appreciated. More please in 2019!
There is more to come on this project don’t worry.
@@EdgePrecision I'm not even a machinist and I get excited every video. I'm a BMW tech but enjoy learning from you. Catch you soon😃
Merry Christmas and Happy and Prosperous New Year 2019 toyou and your family!
Nice practice piece. Merry Christmas.
Thanks Randy!
Feliz Navidad , Peter . Merry Christmas .
Merry Christmas Peter!
Brilliant work sir :-)
Happy Holidays!
Merry Christmas brother.
Nice Job Peter! That lathe is sweet! Love that drill with the spade insert too, great design.
Steve
Merry Christmas Sir ☃️❄️🎅🏻👍
Thanks for the videos.
at our shop, for rough cut drilling, we use self centering 3 jaw chucks, disposable spade bits, and for larger id's going from 2.75 to 11.25, we use modified trepanning stems
Trepanning is the easiest way to make holes. 👍
Merry Christmas!!
Good job !
Merry Christmas!
Great instruction
Watched & enjoyed
Thanks again for sharing all of this with everyone, and Merry Christmas to you too!
Love you videos, so interesting and informative. Keep up the great work.
Great job with all of your posts. Do you ever use toque wrenches when tightening the jaws?
workwillfreeyou h
Very helpful!
I though you were playing with wood for a second. 😂
lol .. I learned something new .. never think of doing the roughing passes like that with the boring bar if u have long chips ... in some cases it will trash the tool and eject the part :)
What brand is the chuck on your machine? i want to get one the same for my lathe at work.
keep the great videos coming and merry Christmas.
www.bison-bial.pl/
best, because Polish 😁
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year.
John
Happy holidays Peter, thank you for the content. You won't have to flip the actual part and turn a continuous finish OD and bore will you?
Thanks Bill. The OD turn only goes up to the jaws. The rest gets milled away when the part gets turned around. There is actually only a small section of the OD left. If you look closely at the previous videos. You will be able to see what I mean. The new bars will be able to turn the whole ID complete from the first end. All that will be necessary is the chamfer on the other end. This ID will be held to a close size for the third operations mandrel.
Excelent bro, can you make a video to show who set tools and work offset for this mazak machine setp by step and input te information on te control ?
Bearing in mind the time of year, I thought that lump of metal in the first shots was a yule log, and you was going to do some wood engraving. Anyways, Happy Christmas to y'all
Just great again.
Merry Christmas to you. M
I´m a machinist from germany and i have to tell that you are working a totally different way than i do! I´ts so nice to see how many ways u can go to your finished product! i think you are doing to really good job at you company!
Keep on going I really like your videos!
Greeting from germany! :)
Merry Christmas. Thanks for the uploads.
Mary Christmas my friend.
Merry Christmas, Peter. Thank you for posting another excellent video.
Considering the time it took you to clock the raw billet up, wouldnt it just have been better to take cuts above the diameter, for example if the stock billet is 250mm, tell the programming software that the billet is 300mm or above? I liked the boring of the inside diameter in stages though.
Merry Christmas Peter. Greetings from Poland.
I was afraid when you didn't use pilot hole for such a big and long hole. I have bad experience from my past. Hole was comletely bad.
PS.
I preffer using both rotation, e.g. 80% for drill and the rest for a part.
Merry christams to you to bud......really enjoy your channel.
I'm curious to see if you have any tricks up your sleeve for chipbreaking in duplex stainless steel. The last time I turned duplex 2205 in a small bore the chipbreaking become a huge problem for productivity. Perhaps with your high pressure through coolant it won't pose a problem.
F55 chips well... F51 is harder to chip.
wonderful work once again.
happy holidays to you.
Hi Peter, How do you like your Bison chucks, I got a 160mm Bison 3 jaws scroll cast iron standard chuck a while ago it runs within 0.5/100mm equal to 2 tenths. Also a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours.
When I bought this chuck I was a little worried it might not be good. But it has turned out to be a fine chuck. I have no complaints.
They are also very competitive price vise compared to other high quality brands, that was a major point for me being a hobbyist.
Merry christmas
Nice! Is there an advantage to using the milling spindle rather than the turning spindle for drilling?
A total shot in the dark here,
The turning spindle is probably a lot more powerful that the milling spindle. The milling spindle would need to lock the tool, I'm not sure if it's a mechanical lock, a brake, or a magnet. But I know that locking something down and pressing against it would be better suited for the larger motor due to its increased mass, and (im assuming) higher holding power. Ie the turning spindle.
I can express you one. He zeroed the part through lathe spindle. It may not be true for thicknesses to drill by milling spindle.
He can get higher RPM and in return a faster feed-rate when he uses the milling than conventional lathe drilling.
You really should look into trepanning. That is a perfect example why it's the best way to go. If you have a minute take a look at how I do this kind of work. Thanks if you do. 👍
I'm really kinda surprised he isn't trepanning since the material is an incredibly expensive one. Maybe he will tell us why. Like your channel.
@@Steve_Just_Steve thanks Steve.
Take notice: the part that is shown in this video is not the actual material, it's a test/ setup parts out of "cheap" steel. The material for the real parts made from super duplex are hollow already - shown at 12:32.
Btw, trepanning is really cool. I was aware of this, but didn't know the proper name. Thanks!
@@bigbattenberg Hey buddy, yeah we know that, but figured these operations would be preformed the same on the real part hits as you say a "test". Now that I've watched the whole vid again it looked like perhaps it showed the Super Duplex on those pallets for just a brief second in the video which were already a tubular stock. I should have known never to second guess Peter. lol Did you check out userwl's channel? He trepans some pretty large hard material.
You are not a machinist.
You are an artist!
I Just geat in Love witch thys Maschine Type
ÇOK TEHLİKELİ İŞ YAPTINIZ
Merry Christmas Peter. Where did you get the ratchet with the long extension you used to indicate the parts?
I bought it from our local Northern tool store. Although I have been back to the store and don’t see any more there. It says Titan something on it. It’s a 3/4” drive.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks I'll go and look for one .
How much programming, if any, do you do in mazatrol? When I was running mazak I know I could crack out simple 2 axis programs at the machine way faster then in cad. Thanks for video, keep up the good work.
This would have been easy with Mazatrol. I should have shown that for this video. For lathe work I do like Mazatrol . For milling I don’t care for it. That being said I very seldom use it except for boring jaws. Thanks Jerry K.
It's nice to see a new video now and then from you. But at the end it's a shame u didn't use a super easy to make mazatrol program to face-off the part and create a small deburr on the face and length of the part. No need for a manual labor. But now i'm nitpicking. 😁
Merry Christmas, Peter.
Thanks you for your video,s
Hope you have a great day.
All the best.
Regards Peter.
May I ask you how much the biggest rpm what you are using in a billetsize like this? It was sticking out quiet a lot in the beginning, and you hold on only 1.5” long on a rough surface. Duplex is bloody heavy as well by the way. Do you calculate somehow what is the smallest surface what you are holding in these cases? I would just turn a small register face first gently with small rpm and depth of cut, because I would worry, maybe the billet will fly out from the spindle. You are much braver then me. Do you calculate somehow or work with feeling? Thanks and great videos
The chucks jaws have serrations on them. When it’s tightly chucked the part is held very securely. Also this is a manual 4 jaw chuck. It will hold a part more securely than a hydraulic chuck. It won’t open/reduce its holding force with RPM. The speed is also limited to a max of 500 RPM in the program.
Edge Precision thank yor for the quick reply. Most of the time I do make small parts (1” diameter or smaller) and thats why it could be scary for me when occasionally I do have to work on some of the bigger machines and I can hear the main spindle mouring under the weight. Thats why I am wasn’t sure what are the rules about weight and sticking out length. But thank you for the information.
thank you for sharing your vast knowledge
SuperDuplex is also used in the fabrication of lightweight 300m decompression chambers in hyperbaric lifeboats....very high tensile strength to weight ratio.
What is the 300m ? .....does that indicate a chamber that could be used up to a 300 meter deep dive ? thanks
David Lawrence . That means the chamber can be pressurised to the equivalent of 300m depth (+-31.16 Bar)
David Lawrence this chamber is fitted inside a hyperbaric lifeboat. This lifeboat chamber has a docking flange connected to the ship’s saturation dive system.
Should an emergency require evacuation of the saturation divers, they are locked into the hyperbaric escape chamber and the lifeboat is then locked off and launched, allowing the divers (under pressure) a reasonable chance of survival.
This lifeboat and chamber is self sustaining for up to 72 hours, within which period they can be locked into a shore based reception facility, or connected too a ship based life support package, at which time they will be slowly surfaced ( usually 1 m / hr ) .
Merry Christmas to you as well buddy!
What do you think is the optimal refractometer reading? I've got my no.
That depends on the type of coolant. There all slightly different.
Merry Christmas from Germany Peter!
How the hell you run the drill so slow yet it took material out like butter what specs you run at ??? I've seldom been lost for words, 50 rpm????
The shutter speed of the camera must have been almost synced with the speed of the drill. It gave the illusion that the drill wasn’t turning.
@@EdgePrecision Oh right same effect as helicopter blades when filming? haha :)
Hi Peter Where can the videos of this work be found?
Unfortunately the customer made me take some of the videos on these parts down. When you get lawyers involved everything goes to hell. Sorry.
What size ER collet are you using with your indicator? Thanks
In this video a ER32 collet chuck is holding a short Noga arm. I have recently changed to using a ER40 chuck because I needed the ER32 chuck for a setup. And I rarely use the ER40 chuck. Does that answer your question?
@@EdgePrecision yes it does Thank you! Putting one together for myself. ER 25 cat50 would be ok?
@@Meeky815 anything that holds the indicator arm. I only used that because it was, at the time a extra chuck. A ER25 would probably be better. I could give more clearance in some situations.
I don't want to know how much that stuff is worth that you consider it expensive.
LOL no kidding. Speaking of expensive wait till you see those new boring bars he was talking about... wow
Maybe I missed it, but what make and model is the machine?
It’s a Mazak Integrex e650H machine.
Thank you
Please Explain more abt run out, high/low spot i.e. machinists lingo
I'm not sure what you are asking? Run out is the error in relation the ideal center-line. So indicated run out is when you use a dial indicator it is the reading you get with the indicator while sweeping the surface in question while rotating the part or indicator on the surface to check. The actual run out of the center-line is half the total indicated run out.
How much torque is the main spindle on this deal good for?
I’m not sure of the exact torque but the turning spindle has 60 hp and the milling spindle has 50.
@@EdgePrecision wow I didn't think it would be a 50hp secondary. Cause it does over 6k rpms. Quite a nice machine
The milling spindles max RPM is 10,000 and the turning is 1,600 with two gear ranges. 460 max in low and 1,600 in high.
Something about this video raises that question, lol. I asked the same thing and scrolled down to see this.
@@EdgePrecision Funny how 60hp in a car has zero balls but seems unstoppable here.
Hi. Why so low quality?
When you upload a video it shows up first in 360p and then as TH-cam processes it further the higher resolutions become available.
What type of machine is this?
Mazak e650 Integrex.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you! And thank you for the videos please continue them!
Are you using a metric or imperial dti?
All my measuring instruments are in inches.
Do you do a lot of super duplex ? How do you find it’s machinability ?
It’s been a while. This material cert says it has over 25% chrome content. It will be difficult. They are here at Centerline making some of these parts as well. The guys running those parts say they are having trouble with inserted milling tools (feed mills). But carbide endmills are holding up OK. We shall see.
Peter, irrelevant but I've got ask, what is your laptop case brand and where can I get one? Season greeting.
If you a talking about the camera bag. It so thin I bought at our local camera store. The only thing I can tell you is it has a tag that says Think Tank on it. I don’t know if that helps.
@@EdgePrecision Yes it helps, thanks
后面垫点东西 好找正
I see Quali Chem drums in the background. Are you using the 250, or the 250C?
I had no idea Wiha made hammers...that's the Maybach of hammers.
Польский токарный патрон bison super , и индикатор митотую))👍👍👍👍
🇧🇷Daniel Machado - Brazil🌎
1st step: centering
2nd step: turn diameter for back stay
3rd step: turn face and drill
Also appropriate: take a chuck with 3 or 6 jaws - justify is not needed
Isn't it dangerous to turn a part with that much stick out?
Not when it held in these serrated hard jaws. I have turned longer than this. If it was held in regular jaws yes I would be using the steady rest to face and center drill. Do the OD than the steady rest to do the bore.
Edge Precision ok, is there a rule of thumb for how much stick out you won't go over before using a steady rest or tail stock?
It’s kind of a judgment call. If you try to do a cut out on the end and get a bunch of chatter/ vibration you need support. I should say it is absolutely essential to limit the RPM for the facing cuts. With a hydraulic chuck it will loose grip ( open up) on the part at high RPM. With this manual 4- jaw chuck you don’t have that problem. But it’s still good to limit the speed.