Hmm, some good info but also some problems this video. I've had rotaries for 30+ years... 1. Most synthetic oils are fine on a rotary. In fact, MAZDA Japan sold synthetic rotary oil. The only region where Mazda stipulated conventional oil was North America. (look it up.) I've run synthetics in rx-7s, rx-8s in stock configuration for many years just fine. As he says later, if you're worried about burning crankcase oil use a SOHN or RRP clean oil feed adapter and run 2-stroke oil from a separate tank. Or if you don't want oil injection at all, delete that system and run premix. That works fine too. 2. The OE ignition coils were designed to be wear items and replaced every 50k. Most people in the know replace with higher quality aftermarket (e.g. RRP, BHR, etc.) and are done replacing them (with better spark too). Some stick with the newer rev C coils from Mazda, which aren't as prone to failure as rev A and B were. 3. Adding a smaller amount of premix to a daily driven RX does help keep the engine running longer, especially S1, unless you've had the ECU tuned to inject more oil. Mazda dropped the amount injected too far in early RX-8s in order to comply with emissions. S1 RX-8s use a traditional oil metering pump. This pump is positive displacement and is able to be gravity-fed oil (via SOHN or RRP adapters). However, S2 RX-8s have eMOPs or electronic metering oil injection pumps. They sit on top of the motor and are fed pressurized oil. They aren't technically pumps, but rather electronic valves that allow small amounts of oil to pass. You can't run a gravity fed tank of 2stroke oil to them. Instead, you'd have to pressurize that system (between 16 and 22psi, IIRC) in order for it to function. Could be worth doing but isn't something readily available.
Great video!! If you are running an alcohol fuel (ethanol blend or methanol), make sure that the premix is designed for this. Many 2 cycle premixes are NOT designed for alcohol fuels, and many that are can have bad side effects, like ones with castor bean oil. Also, many rotary engine builders believe that the factory OMP set up (on RX8s) is not enough lubrication for the combustion chamber, especially on the 2004-2008 models with the 2 oil ports. My recommendation is to always run premix in a rotary engine, and use the best maintenance items you can to maximize engine life. I would recommend NGK spark plugs, OEM or K&N for filters, and Renewable Lubricants for premix and oil.
Nice video man. I just bought my first rx8 and right now I have the engine in peace because it was kinda trashed. I lithely watched all of your videos on rotary engines.
Idk if you found a method for doing the oil control o-rings yet, I remember a video where you said you always have issues. When I was rebuilding my renesis I followed the service manual, didn’t soak them and only applied Vaseline just before installation. They popped right in for me without drama.
Renesis are capable of more miles than you think. There's a handful that hit 200k on the RX8 club forum and that's primarily due to those engines running mostly on the highway (which keeps those engines carbon free). In my experience, the more carbon you keep out the engine, the less wear you get on the rotor housings because now you don't have all that carbon dust scraping between the apex seals and housings. I also recommend NOT using those after market K&N filters because they do a shitty job of filtering the air. You'd be surprised how the smallest amounts of dust can "Dust out" your engine prematurely. I always shake my head when I see those running turbos without air filters or open ITB's then those guys wonder why their engines keep loosing compression so fast. I don't care how carbon free or well tuned your rotary is but you absolutely must have clean air entering your rotary to give it a better chance of lasting well over 100k.
I bought an rx8 with 222k miles on it. There's no compression on the rear rotor. I think it's the original engine, I'll know for sure when I pull it out.
@@nashanthename1886 unless your car is almost exclusively a track car, the aftermarket intakes aren't an upgrade. Most of them suck in hot air from behind the radiator anyway.
In terms of the ignition coils, I'd be interested to know your source on that information that the Mazda coils aren't sufficient for hard running. Here in the UK, I approached one of the well-known rotary specialists (Rotary Revs) who stated that they don't recommend the aftermarket ignition coils. Mazda released the C variant of ignition coil which improved durability and performance of the coil more recently and supposedly, (from what I have been told) the Mazda ignition coil is the best for reliability and performance currently.
I have been running mazda coils in my car for the past two years. It runs reliably and all. But I occasionally get some break up at 9000 rpm plus on a hot day. With a misfire code. I change my plugs every year. And it only sees mostly tack miles and occasionally road use. Maybe 3k miles per year
I think most coils are going to struggle at that high of an rpm. Ernie at Phalanx performance here has also noted a decent power increase from the aftermarket coils over stock coils as well.
hello, i'm sorry, i still quite don't understand regarding the premix, as I drive my rx-8 with RON97 fuel, red lining it around 2-3 times a week, still should I premixing it for better lubrication and prolong the seals? or will it worsen the other parts of the engine? anyway i'm new in rotary world, just got my rx-8 yesterday and need so much thing to learn of this engine, and thanks for the videos!
Renesis engine was designed to run in synthetic oil. Run the Renesis only in premix it going to dead prematurely for sure. Ask to Start Mazda engines. You must use the same oil in Shon as used in the engine. This engine has a ton of "blow by" so your engine oil will be mixed with the Shon oil. 2 stroke oil is designed to be used DILUTED in the fuel, not directly as lubricant.
I think racers often run straight premix in the gasoline and block-off the oil injection ports... So it should work But the shon adapter is quite literally the worst of both worlds, you don't have the benefit of atomization that the fuel injector provides (better dispersion of 2stroke oil into the chamber) and you have added a maintenance item, where the original omp is an integrated system.
@@toorandomenvi so I guess if you don’t baby it / refill the oil regularly you can premix if it’s more convenient, and do both methods whenever as it won’t really matter , though refilling the oil once in a while seems way more convenient
All things that you talk in this video are problems that the RX8 don't tern on when the car is hot ,when is cold tern on normal .I want know about this problem causes.thanks
The vacuum ports on the oil injectors are not to open the injector. They are unregulated, the OMP is what controls oil flow through the injector. The vacuum ports are there to equalize pressure between injectors. Infact 12A engines (may be before a specific year) didn't have vacuum ports... As for not running premix, there are three considerations with the S1 Rx8, 1) the omp was tuned to inject less oil to meet epa regs, 2) the position of the oil injectors in the housing injects the oil away from the center of the apex seal 3) the apex seals themselves are shorter. The lower level of oil injection coupled with the angled injectors is what creates increased wear on the apex seal. Due to the way the rotor moves it actually pulls oil away from center and towards the side and corner seals. theres a good write-up in one of mazda's sae books (though I dont remember which one atm). These two factors together, the lower oil level and angle of the injectors is what causes the excessive wear on the seal. The seal gets worn down to the point where it doesn't have much holding it in the groove and snaps killing at worst two irons, a housing, and a rotor. Please dont tell people not to premix their S1s or even S2s (though S2s are less-prone as a result of an additional 3rd injector to properly distribute oil to the center). Carbon can kill these engines just as quick yes, but it'd be better to premix and also just redline it more.
good day buddy i got the same rx8, can the auxilary valves in the lower intake become noisy? my rx has a rattle noise when revs comes down and at 2800 to 1000 sounds like something is lose in the engine. i done all the other valves. also under load it starts misfire from 5000 rpm. any suggestions? my videos are on my chanel thanks in advance learning a lot from you
Red line a day keeps the rebuild doctor a day. Yes blow out the carbon. If you are premixing and doing your oil changes and plugs on time you will have a reliable rx8.
I currently have an RX8 and a 93FD. The RX8 came in a trade with two engines (supposedly both "blown up") when you do a compression test and it looks like you have a broken Apex seal, often times it is just stuck from having lots of nasty carbon. I've done this several times with rotary motors that made basically no compression; remove the lower plugs and using either a turkey baster or a small fluid pump, pump in 4 or 5 oz of automatic transmission fluid... Turn the car over by hand a few times and let it set. Do this a couple times a day for a couple of days. Sometimes it actually will work quite quickly if you want to keep rechecking compression it will be obvious when the seals become unstuck. Once that happens you can start the car and rev the snot out of it.... It will all come out and a giant cloud of smoke. Then compression is restored and you are ready for racing :) . The very worst I've got seen this was with a 1979 RX7 that we bought out of a field that had not been started or turned over in years, the engine did not turn over. My brother and I had stopped and put transmission fluid in the housings a couple of times before we drug it home with a pickup. While in tow my brother had tried to pop start the car a number of times. It did start while we were still in town made a giant smoke show, then we unhooked the tow strap and he beat me home. Seals do break and what have you but in my experience that's when you're pushing 20 lbs of boost wide open throttle 160mph(I completely destroyed a rotor housing a rotor and two irons 😆).. If it's naturally aspirated though it's probably completely fine and can be fixed with one quart or less of ATF :) if anything it's definitely worth a try for those who believe they need a rebuild. My RX8 has 133000 miles makes full power, and was "rebuilt " with a bottle of ATF. Over the years I had forgotten where this "trick" came from; but then I seen a video here on TH-cam where an old Mazda technician explained how they used to perform that exact procedure at Mazda dealerships for 12a engines. Somehow though, today people hear about this and think it's snake oil 😆
Had a customer that would bring in their rx8 for a no start every winter. Pull the plugs, insert some atf, let her sit a couple days and she'd pop right off, let it sit running for a bit than run the rpms up on a test drive and it would come right back to life. The customer never drove it hard so it was always carbon logged
Thanks for the vid man. Your helping to keep the RX8 alive. I'm close to getting mine back together and can't wait to perform decarb revs every gear change :-)
I think it'll be useful if you do one more detailed video of premixing versus not premixing. As well as using 'simple 2 stroke oil' versus idemitsu(or similar). Many good rotary mechanics are in battle for those dilemmas and it's confusing who's right and who's wrong.
I believe it was in 2005 that they changed them, but I always thought it was a bizarre choice for Mazda to use a solid black plastic coolant tank in their 2004 models. For something that important in a rotary powered vehicle, you'd think it would be a smart choice to have designed it as transparent. I still break my neck every time I see an Rx8 drive by. Most people probably wouldn't look twice, but I am a die hard for these things.
Coolant tank was always clear, but this statement is true for the washer fluid reservoir. My 2004 has a black coolant tank but there is a dipstick attached to the cap with cutouts to mark the fluid level. They did in fact change to a clear reservoir in 2005. Either way, both the washer fluid tank and coolant tank have level sensors that will throw codes onto the cluster. Just the biggest issue is that the coolant sensors are prone to going bad and are built into the tank, requiring a new unit.
I don't care how good his driving is or how well he knows his car, you can't predict what the dog will do and there were quite a few close calls there... This guy either doesn't love his dog or is too ignorant to see he's gonna hurt him eventually if he keeps that up...
Please premix especially your first gen RX8’s, the amount of 8’a i’ve torn apart that have excessive wear in the center section of the housing from where they added the 3rd injector on the series 2 has to be over 100
On the oil side, I have been running Royal Purple for 12 years in my 09 RX8. This was on the recommendation of Racing Beat at the time I got it and was going through it. Engine is original and has 87k miles on it so far. Still runs very strong and has not issues starting or anything. Only modifications are de-cat and BHR ignition. That all said, I run the piss out of the car. I have always run it hard and get things plenty hot every drive. Plugs always come out pretty clean just that very light brownish ash. I have scoped it a couple times through the plug holes. Thinks look ok so far. Not 100% carbon free, but mostly that bronzish color rotors turn after being in an engine. Maybe I have been lucky, but for all the years I have owned her she has been a good car.
@@mrmechanic274 i dont fackin know. All I know is typically its .5 oz's oil per gallon of fuel for functioning omp. With omp delete, run 1 oz per gallon. For racing or aggressive porting 1.5-2.
My 2004 RX8 had the breather go to the intake tract, and already had a catch can fitted. My 2008 RX8 though has it routed to the lower intake manifold as standard I believe? Can I still put a catch can into that system (if I block off the 2 ports into the lower intake manifold)?
@@melanos2000 ok thanks, I guess Mazda in their wisdom decided to change a few things up on the later models. People hate on the Renesis, but it really is peak production rotary engine .
Hey man. If I drove my rx8 up to Tennessee to see you (I'm in North Carolina) would you be willing to do a streetport/extended port and make it a hybrid?
I am not judging your method in any way, How do you get the dog to not kill him/herself? Barking at the wheels while your spinning around at 20mph? dosent seem very smart
Synthetic oil doesn't provide "extra lubrication", it just breaks down slower so you can extend your oil change intervals in a piston engined car. The rest is just marketing, because it's 4x more expensive than regular dino! If you are "racing" on a track or on a road, synthetic may help prevent your engine expiring sooner than expected.
have had mine for 12 years and have never done anything special at all to it. I don't drive it like an ahole either. i don't even red line it often like I'm supposed to. worst I've ever had to deal with is it being stolen and flooding the engine a few times.
Bro please change your channel name to MR RX-8 because your literary the best TH-camr when it comes to RX-8s because Rob Dahm hates them and his best friend dosent really get the chance to shine some light on them
fr looking at RX8 in my country right now haha They are mad underrated 5-10k gets you one in mint condition with under 100k miles on the engine ive seen some for as cheap as 2k
I’m thinking about buying an 05 rx8 base model. 90,000 miles on rotary… I’ve heard a lot about these cars losing compression around 100,000 miles or even less. Is this common? Or is it due to very poor maintenance? If that’s the case, is there a good way to tell how well the car has been treated aside from maintenance records? I’d appreciate some feedback.
Best practice would be to get a compression test before purchase, this will pretty much tell you exactly the condition of the seals within the engine, as well as give you an idea how close you are to a rebuild. Cars with receipts are ideal as well. The loss of compression is extremely common due to an underperforming oil injection system (particularly on S1s, S2s are much better from what I've seen but I think I'd still premix in the gasoline to keep excessive wear at bay)
Love your videos! I was wondering if you ever had issues with the OMP? My 2004 RX8 is giving me P1688, I have checked everything imaginable (cleaned the pump, check the stepper motor) and came to the conclusion that the position "switch/sensor" is sometimes giving wrong reading and making the ECU unhappy. It helped to rotate it by a couple of degrees but after sometime the code came back. And you really know when this happens as you get 11% if throttle. Do you know where I could get a new or used "swiths/sensor"? All I could find were complete units but those are expensive. I would love to find a cheaper and better solution also for others that might have similar problem to mine. Keep up the good work.
I really appreciate these videos. Good content. The debate of synthetic-oil or mineral-oil has been a frequent one among us RX-8 owners. Mazda sold (perhaps still sells) their own branded fully synthetic oil for the RX-8. It is called Syntherenesis. It is a 0W-30 oil and it contains Polyalpha-Olefin. Mazda claims that the oil gives you all the benefits of a synthetic oil without the carbon buildup associated with conventional synthetic oils. (Whatever that is :-) ) I am in the synthetic oil camp myself and I run Mobil 1 NEW LIFE 0W-40. I also premix with Castrol POWER1 Racing 2T. With all that said, to each his own, and thank you for the great content!
Hey Guys Just bought my RX8 and now found out, that he runn that engine on Full-Synthetic oil for 80 000km (50 000 miles) is there anything i can do to save that engine ?
Yeah don’t always premix. Don’t always drive it on shit roads. Do redline it. BG44K can reverse a horrible premix episode to get you back to using pump gas only.
I think it would be cool to run a reservoir with 2 cycle oil hooked to the oil injection system then run synthetic for the crankcase. Im new to this rotary stuff just kind of brainstorming maybe im being dumb
So if those exhaust valves have to open to actually get all your power then in theory you shld be able to delete those I wld think cuz if there closed then you dont have all your power from what you was saying unless im missing something plz explain.
So I have oil going into throttle body which has never happened before. The only thing that has changed was the tune. I thought it was coming from the oil filler neck but I put a ghetto catch can on that line and no it's coming from above the throttle body. If you have any ideas as to what the problem could be as far as mechanical or even the tuner just sucking open to any ideas please help
I was able to remove the lower intake without pulling the engine. You just have to remove the Phillips screw connecting the sleeves to the rod inside the intake. Pain in the ass and will still need to pull the motor but I did it lol.
When it comes to premixing is things like lucus fuel injector cleaner good and do you need to premix with that? Or is there recommendations of lubes not oils you can use?
You know any tricks for o2 defoulers on the rx8. The cats are expensive i got a new one but im trying to preserve it and put the old gutted one back on.
Love it! I own an RX8 and I premix w/o any of the mods you mentioned. Just recently I got a code. P0410. Secondary airpump issue. I’m not sure if it’s bc I premix, but my 8 has been really reliable so far. 111k miles 😅
Hello how are you? I like your information. What do you use for an air filter element now the air box has been removed? And where have you installed the battery? Thankyou from Brian from Australia.
You should be using an ashless burning formula brand for your two stroke oil. It's possible that your cat is clogged and causing the air pump to back up in itself. I believe this can be a common issue, as the pump is really a simple system and operates well otherwise. It's not needed and can be removed without affecting engine performance, but you'll need to have block off the lines and it will be better to run without a cat. I'm going through the same issue but I have emission requirements where I live at, so I'd like to have it all operate correctly, but the proper replacement parts are not cheap. I'm not actually sure that my pump is bad, but there could also be a clog in not only the cat, but also in the secondary valve that allows the air pump to deliver the air when needed. I believe it can go bad from said cat blockage, causing exhaust to get into the valve. Also, removing the system will allow the engine to operate normally, but there will be a code and check engine light staying on.
Thanks for another great video Erich! You might wanna make a seat for Leddy in the green machine before she gets run over. 😬 Wish I had the tools & confidence to pull my perfectly running Renesis so I can inspect and clean my lower intake. Rock on!
Removal and cleaning is best, but I've heard of detergents working as well. Just be mindful that it's all going to have to pass or attempt to pass through the cat.. so if it's not clear to begin with, then it's liable to make things worse without a good flowing exhaust.
Love your videos mate.. I think I saw a mini filter fitted somewhere near the engine oil cap... can you please explain how that is fitted... I've seen that there is a vaccum hose that is fitted down there which comes from the air intake, is it just blocked off and the mini filter fitted?
Ive had thoughts about getting an RX8 as a daily driver. I live down here in Florida where it is really hot every day. Some days it will rain a lot and it can be really humid some days. I understand one of the elephants in the room was premixing your RX8. I dont know if this would be ideal in the hot Florida weather conditions or if I should run thick oil lile 20W50 VR1 you mentioned. I would like to daily drive it but also beat on it at times too. I would generally like to address its cooling, ignition systems so the car does run efficiently just as much as I had thought about how cool it would be to bridgeport an RX8 because Brap braps. I am still learning in the field as a car mechanic and the only Dorito powered shop near by is Pettit Racing which is 1 hour south from my location.
Bro I was sweating the whole time your dog was running around in the yard with you whipping the car around. sheesh
Not the brightest move lol
Incredibly reckless
Like a street takeover 😂
I think this is what the Ozzies refer to as "Bogan level 5"
Hmm, some good info but also some problems this video. I've had rotaries for 30+ years...
1. Most synthetic oils are fine on a rotary. In fact, MAZDA Japan sold synthetic rotary oil. The only region where Mazda stipulated conventional oil was North America. (look it up.) I've run synthetics in rx-7s, rx-8s in stock configuration for many years just fine. As he says later, if you're worried about burning crankcase oil use a SOHN or RRP clean oil feed adapter and run 2-stroke oil from a separate tank. Or if you don't want oil injection at all, delete that system and run premix. That works fine too.
2. The OE ignition coils were designed to be wear items and replaced every 50k. Most people in the know replace with higher quality aftermarket (e.g. RRP, BHR, etc.) and are done replacing them (with better spark too). Some stick with the newer rev C coils from Mazda, which aren't as prone to failure as rev A and B were.
3. Adding a smaller amount of premix to a daily driven RX does help keep the engine running longer, especially S1, unless you've had the ECU tuned to inject more oil. Mazda dropped the amount injected too far in early RX-8s in order to comply with emissions.
S1 RX-8s use a traditional oil metering pump. This pump is positive displacement and is able to be gravity-fed oil (via SOHN or RRP adapters).
However, S2 RX-8s have eMOPs or electronic metering oil injection pumps. They sit on top of the motor and are fed pressurized oil. They aren't technically pumps, but rather electronic valves that allow small amounts of oil to pass. You can't run a gravity fed tank of 2stroke oil to them. Instead, you'd have to pressurize that system (between 16 and 22psi, IIRC) in order for it to function. Could be worth doing but isn't something readily available.
Great video!! If you are running an alcohol fuel (ethanol blend or methanol), make sure that the premix is designed for this. Many 2 cycle premixes are NOT designed for alcohol fuels, and many that are can have bad side effects, like ones with castor bean oil. Also, many rotary engine builders believe that the factory OMP set up (on RX8s) is not enough lubrication for the combustion chamber, especially on the 2004-2008 models with the 2 oil ports. My recommendation is to always run premix in a rotary engine, and use the best maintenance items you can to maximize engine life. I would recommend NGK spark plugs, OEM or K&N for filters, and Renewable Lubricants for premix and oil.
Nice video man. I just bought my first rx8 and right now I have the engine in peace because it was kinda trashed. I lithely watched all of your videos on rotary engines.
Buy a JDM engine for 2k save the hassle
a rotary is more cool@@jo-qp7mz
Idk if you found a method for doing the oil control o-rings yet, I remember a video where you said you always have issues. When I was rebuilding my renesis I followed the service manual, didn’t soak them and only applied Vaseline just before installation. They popped right in for me without drama.
You have given me hope in owning a rotary engine again. Thanks bro
Renesis are capable of more miles than you think. There's a handful that hit 200k on the RX8 club forum and that's primarily due to those engines running mostly on the highway (which keeps those engines carbon free). In my experience, the more carbon you keep out the engine, the less wear you get on the rotor housings because now you don't have all that carbon dust scraping between the apex seals and housings. I also recommend NOT using those after market K&N filters because they do a shitty job of filtering the air. You'd be surprised how the smallest amounts of dust can "Dust out" your engine prematurely. I always shake my head when I see those running turbos without air filters or open ITB's then those guys wonder why their engines keep loosing compression so fast. I don't care how carbon free or well tuned your rotary is but you absolutely must have clean air entering your rotary to give it a better chance of lasting well over 100k.
I bought an rx8 with 222k miles on it. There's no compression on the rear rotor. I think it's the original engine, I'll know for sure when I pull it out.
So Racing Beat and AEM intakes... Which are the most popular intakes for this car that actually provide a small power bump. Don't run them???
I think what he means is the 3-5 hp gain isnt worth sucking in extra dirt
@@nashanthename1886 unless your car is almost exclusively a track car, the aftermarket intakes aren't an upgrade. Most of them suck in hot air from behind the radiator anyway.
@@TexasVexes That's exactly what I mean. Now I will say this, the Nissan Nismo filters a pretty good at filtering and allowing a little more air flow.
Miss taking mine out to Virginia Beach and giving her the ol Italian tune up
Racing oil doesn't have anti oxidizers stablizers and all those other additives, so racing oil is a bad idea unless you change it every other month.
I wish there was content like this on the series 4 rx7
Dude. You are an articulate guy. Thanks, and have a great day.
I ran Mobil1 for the 8 years I had my RX-8. No problems. Not sure how long it takes for the "damage" to show up. Just old lore I think.
In terms of the ignition coils, I'd be interested to know your source on that information that the Mazda coils aren't sufficient for hard running.
Here in the UK, I approached one of the well-known rotary specialists (Rotary Revs) who stated that they don't recommend the aftermarket ignition coils. Mazda released the C variant of ignition coil which improved durability and performance of the coil more recently and supposedly, (from what I have been told) the Mazda ignition coil is the best for reliability and performance currently.
I have been running mazda coils in my car for the past two years. It runs reliably and all. But I occasionally get some break up at 9000 rpm plus on a hot day. With a misfire code. I change my plugs every year. And it only sees mostly tack miles and occasionally road use. Maybe 3k miles per year
I think most coils are going to struggle at that high of an rpm. Ernie at Phalanx performance here has also noted a decent power increase from the aftermarket coils over stock coils as well.
hello, i'm sorry, i still quite don't understand regarding the premix, as I drive my rx-8 with RON97 fuel, red lining it around 2-3 times a week, still should I premixing it for better lubrication and prolong the seals? or will it worsen the other parts of the engine? anyway i'm new in rotary world, just got my rx-8 yesterday and need so much thing to learn of this engine, and thanks for the videos!
Oh man, I thought that dog was toast a few times during intro!
Renesis engine was designed to run in synthetic oil.
Run the Renesis only in premix it going to dead prematurely for sure. Ask to Start Mazda engines.
You must use the same oil in Shon as used in the engine. This engine has a ton of "blow by" so your engine oil will be mixed with the Shon oil.
2 stroke oil is designed to be used DILUTED in the fuel, not directly as lubricant.
I think racers often run straight premix in the gasoline and block-off the oil injection ports... So it should work
But the shon adapter is quite literally the worst of both worlds, you don't have the benefit of atomization that the fuel injector provides (better dispersion of 2stroke oil into the chamber) and you have added a maintenance item, where the original omp is an integrated system.
i love this car so much ....
Synth is fine. Fight me!
Good man. Yeah keep it red 👍
As a guy who ran a rx8 daily for about 3 years. Listen to this man.
@Garden State RX8 I did but only because I didnt baby it. It had high mileage on the engine and I gave it fair bit of gas every day.
@@toorandomenvi so I guess if you don’t baby it / refill the oil regularly you can premix if it’s more convenient, and do both methods whenever as it won’t really matter , though refilling the oil once in a while seems way more convenient
All things that you talk in this video are problems that the RX8 don't tern on when the car is hot ,when is cold tern on normal .I want know about this problem causes.thanks
For oil what weight do you recommend? 0w40, 10w40, 20w50 ? If we are in a normal climate
Have you ported it fully up and gat the right turbo on it ????🎉🎉🎉🎉
Them can be wild wile wildly crazy
Great video 👍🏾
The vacuum ports on the oil injectors are not to open the injector. They are unregulated, the OMP is what controls oil flow through the injector. The vacuum ports are there to equalize pressure between injectors. Infact 12A engines (may be before a specific year) didn't have vacuum ports...
As for not running premix, there are three considerations with the S1 Rx8, 1) the omp was tuned to inject less oil to meet epa regs, 2) the position of the oil injectors in the housing injects the oil away from the center of the apex seal 3) the apex seals themselves are shorter.
The lower level of oil injection coupled with the angled injectors is what creates increased wear on the apex seal. Due to the way the rotor moves it actually pulls oil away from center and towards the side and corner seals. theres a good write-up in one of mazda's sae books (though I dont remember which one atm). These two factors together, the lower oil level and angle of the injectors is what causes the excessive wear on the seal. The seal gets worn down to the point where it doesn't have much holding it in the groove and snaps killing at worst two irons, a housing, and a rotor.
Please dont tell people not to premix their S1s or even S2s (though S2s are less-prone as a result of an additional 3rd injector to properly distribute oil to the center). Carbon can kill these engines just as quick yes, but it'd be better to premix and also just redline it more.
good day buddy
i got the same rx8, can the auxilary valves in the lower intake become noisy? my rx has a rattle noise when revs comes down and at 2800 to 1000 sounds like something is lose in the engine. i done all the other valves. also under load it starts misfire from 5000 rpm. any suggestions? my videos are on my chanel
thanks in advance
learning a lot from you
what’s your take on a sohn adapter, do you think it’s better than the factory OMP ?
Do I have to redline during each drive? I got a 2004 rx8 with a sohn adapter and a catch can. ✌🏾😵💫
Red line a day keeps the rebuild doctor a day. Yes blow out the carbon. If you are premixing and doing your oil changes and plugs on time you will have a reliable rx8.
How often do you rev your rx8 out to remove the carbon buildup?
everytime I drive it
I was told that I wouldn't need to premix on the 2nd generation RX-8. Is that true?
No need it if you daily it. Mazda added a 3rd oil injector to lubricate more
A man talking sense on the internet??? Keep up the good videos 👍🏻
I currently have an RX8 and a 93FD. The RX8 came in a trade with two engines (supposedly both "blown up") when you do a compression test and it looks like you have a broken Apex seal, often times it is just stuck from having lots of nasty carbon. I've done this several times with rotary motors that made basically no compression; remove the lower plugs and using either a turkey baster or a small fluid pump, pump in 4 or 5 oz of automatic transmission fluid... Turn the car over by hand a few times and let it set. Do this a couple times a day for a couple of days. Sometimes it actually will work quite quickly if you want to keep rechecking compression it will be obvious when the seals become unstuck. Once that happens you can start the car and rev the snot out of it.... It will all come out and a giant cloud of smoke. Then compression is restored and you are ready for racing :) . The very worst I've got seen this was with a 1979 RX7 that we bought out of a field that had not been started or turned over in years, the engine did not turn over. My brother and I had stopped and put transmission fluid in the housings a couple of times before we drug it home with a pickup. While in tow my brother had tried to pop start the car a number of times. It did start while we were still in town made a giant smoke show, then we unhooked the tow strap and he beat me home. Seals do break and what have you but in my experience that's when you're pushing 20 lbs of boost wide open throttle 160mph(I completely destroyed a rotor housing a rotor and two irons 😆).. If it's naturally aspirated though it's probably completely fine and can be fixed with one quart or less of ATF :) if anything it's definitely worth a try for those who believe they need a rebuild. My RX8 has 133000 miles makes full power, and was "rebuilt " with a bottle of ATF. Over the years I had forgotten where this "trick" came from; but then I seen a video here on TH-cam where an old Mazda technician explained how they used to perform that exact procedure at Mazda dealerships for 12a engines. Somehow though, today people hear about this and think it's snake oil 😆
I found a RX-8 but can't find a trustworthy mechanic to check
Had a customer that would bring in their rx8 for a no start every winter. Pull the plugs, insert some atf, let her sit a couple days and she'd pop right off, let it sit running for a bit than run the rpms up on a test drive and it would come right back to life. The customer never drove it hard so it was always carbon logged
@@dakota5041 Sorry, but what is ATF?
@@felipefrasson8701 automatic transmission fluid
@@pamspencer5733come europe man and I hoock you up
Thanks for the vid man. Your helping to keep the RX8 alive. I'm close to getting mine back together and can't wait to perform decarb revs every gear change :-)
I think it'll be useful if you do one more detailed video of premixing versus not premixing. As well as using 'simple 2 stroke oil' versus idemitsu(or similar).
Many good rotary mechanics are in battle for those dilemmas and it's confusing who's right and who's wrong.
I believe it was in 2005 that they changed them, but I always thought it was a bizarre choice for Mazda to use a solid black plastic coolant tank in their 2004 models. For something that important in a rotary powered vehicle, you'd think it would be a smart choice to have designed it as transparent. I still break my neck every time I see an Rx8 drive by. Most people probably wouldn't look twice, but I am a die hard for these things.
Coolant tank was always clear, but this statement is true for the washer fluid reservoir. My 2004 has a black coolant tank but there is a dipstick attached to the cap with cutouts to mark the fluid level. They did in fact change to a clear reservoir in 2005.
Either way, both the washer fluid tank and coolant tank have level sensors that will throw codes onto the cluster. Just the biggest issue is that the coolant sensors are prone to going bad and are built into the tank, requiring a new unit.
Bro you make rx8s seem indestructible, gives me confidence to swap my FC with a renesis, really good videos
Watch out for the dog while ripping all over the yard.
Was scared as shit for the dog that whole intro....
I don't care how good his driving is or how well he knows his car, you can't predict what the dog will do and there were quite a few close calls there... This guy either doesn't love his dog or is too ignorant to see he's gonna hurt him eventually if he keeps that up...
Please premix especially your first gen RX8’s, the amount of 8’a i’ve torn apart that have excessive wear in the center section of the housing from where they added the 3rd injector on the series 2 has to be over 100
in your experience how much of a difference does the 3rd injector make?
@@1OMEGA111 night and day difference, that’s why people say to avoid S1 cars and buy S2 cars
On the oil side, I have been running Royal Purple for 12 years in my 09 RX8. This was on the recommendation of Racing Beat at the time I got it and was going through it. Engine is original and has 87k miles on it so far. Still runs very strong and has not issues starting or anything. Only modifications are de-cat and BHR ignition.
That all said, I run the piss out of the car. I have always run it hard and get things plenty hot every drive. Plugs always come out pretty clean just that very light brownish ash. I have scoped it a couple times through the plug holes. Thinks look ok so far. Not 100% carbon free, but mostly that bronzish color rotors turn after being in an engine. Maybe I have been lucky, but for all the years I have owned her she has been a good car.
Nice to know an actual example with royal purple. Currently running 15w40 royal purple. 140000km on the engine and no engine light so far. Lol
@dalebob 100:1?? Metric ? Imperial ?
@@mrmechanic274 i dont fackin know. All I know is typically its .5 oz's oil per gallon of fuel for functioning omp. With omp delete, run 1 oz per gallon. For racing or aggressive porting 1.5-2.
I run Penzoil Platinum Ultra Pure 5w30. In all my cars.
You have to be the only rx8 tht still running with its original rotary💀
you can use a catch can to avoid excesive carbon deposits on the valves.
youare doing a nice job with the channel .cons
Valves?
@@kekethetoad intake valves, the SSV especially can get gummed up and quit working .
My 2004 RX8 had the breather go to the intake tract, and already had a catch can fitted. My 2008 RX8 though has it routed to the lower intake manifold as standard I believe? Can I still put a catch can into that system (if I block off the 2 ports into the lower intake manifold)?
@@jamesowen418 in case of facelift i think yor ok,no need for an extra item in the engine bay
@@melanos2000 ok thanks, I guess Mazda in their wisdom decided to change a few things up on the later models. People hate on the Renesis, but it really is peak production rotary engine .
Intresting...so for dayli no need premix...i kind love this
I keep coming back to your videos over and over to try and talk myself into an rx8 to replace my nc2 😂
I have one for sale
Hey man. If I drove my rx8 up to Tennessee to see you (I'm in North Carolina) would you be willing to do a streetport/extended port and make it a hybrid?
The trees must be loving the extra carbon there haha
I am not judging your method in any way, How do you get the dog to not kill him/herself? Barking at the wheels while your spinning around at 20mph? dosent seem very smart
Based dog
she tags along when I ride mountain bikes, and runs when we work on the farm. Shes pretty smart when it comes to getting close or when to back away.
Synthetic oil doesn't provide "extra lubrication", it just breaks down slower so you can extend your oil change intervals in a piston engined car. The rest is just marketing, because it's 4x more expensive than regular dino! If you are "racing" on a track or on a road, synthetic may help prevent your engine expiring sooner than expected.
may sound stupid , but i liked the vid because of he be drifting having fun with the Dog
have had mine for 12 years and have never done anything special at all to it. I don't drive it like an ahole either. i don't even red line it often like I'm supposed to. worst I've ever had to deal with is it being stolen and flooding the engine a few times.
Bro please change your channel name to MR RX-8 because your literary the best TH-camr when it comes to RX-8s because Rob Dahm hates them and his best friend dosent really get the chance to shine some light on them
Gives me enough confidence to pull the trigger on an rx8 as my next fun car
fr looking at RX8 in my country right now haha
They are mad underrated 5-10k gets you one in mint condition with under 100k miles on the engine ive seen some for as cheap as 2k
Buy one with a bad engine, rebuild it, you are now the first owner of a fresh rebuild.
I’m thinking about buying an 05 rx8 base model. 90,000 miles on rotary… I’ve heard a lot about these cars losing compression around 100,000 miles or even less. Is this common? Or is it due to very poor maintenance? If that’s the case, is there a good way to tell how well the car has been treated aside from maintenance records? I’d appreciate some feedback.
It’s probably going to need a rebuild tbh. It’s common. Not revving the motor high. It’s a lot research rotary vs piston
@Garden State RX8 was that to the guy who made the post ?
Best practice would be to get a compression test before purchase, this will pretty much tell you exactly the condition of the seals within the engine, as well as give you an idea how close you are to a rebuild. Cars with receipts are ideal as well. The loss of compression is extremely common due to an underperforming oil injection system (particularly on S1s, S2s are much better from what I've seen but I think I'd still premix in the gasoline to keep excessive wear at bay)
Love your videos! I was wondering if you ever had issues with the OMP? My 2004 RX8 is giving me P1688, I have checked everything imaginable (cleaned the pump, check the stepper motor) and came to the conclusion that the position "switch/sensor" is sometimes giving wrong reading and making the ECU unhappy. It helped to rotate it by a couple of degrees but after sometime the code came back. And you really know when this happens as you get 11% if throttle. Do you know where I could get a new or used "swiths/sensor"? All I could find were complete units but those are expensive. I would love to find a cheaper and better solution also for others that might have similar problem to mine.
Keep up the good work.
You are going to kill your dog!
This guy is so easy to listen to. Thumbs up, brother!
I really appreciate these videos. Good content. The debate of synthetic-oil or mineral-oil has been a frequent one among us RX-8 owners. Mazda sold (perhaps still sells) their own branded fully synthetic oil for the RX-8. It is called Syntherenesis. It is a 0W-30 oil and it contains Polyalpha-Olefin. Mazda claims that the oil gives you all the benefits of a synthetic oil without the carbon buildup associated with conventional synthetic oils. (Whatever that is :-) ) I am in the synthetic oil camp myself and I run Mobil 1 NEW LIFE 0W-40. I also premix with Castrol POWER1 Racing 2T. With all that said, to each his own, and thank you for the great content!
Hey Guys
Just bought my RX8 and now found out, that he runn that engine on Full-Synthetic oil for 80 000km (50 000 miles) is there anything i can do to save that engine ?
Yeah don’t always premix. Don’t always drive it on shit roads. Do redline it. BG44K can reverse a horrible premix episode to get you back to using pump gas only.
I think it would be cool to run a reservoir with 2 cycle oil hooked to the oil injection system then run synthetic for the crankcase. Im new to this rotary stuff just kind of brainstorming maybe im being dumb
So if those exhaust valves have to open to actually get all your power then in theory you shld be able to delete those I wld think cuz if there closed then you dont have all your power from what you was saying unless im missing something plz explain.
That's a nice piece of property. Must be a blast as a kid to grow up around there as long as have ATV or dirt bike or other fun toys.
Wankle = Rotational Two Stroke, no better way to think about how to approach these engines.
So I have oil going into throttle body which has never happened before. The only thing that has changed was the tune. I thought it was coming from the oil filler neck but I put a ghetto catch can on that line and no it's coming from above the throttle body. If you have any ideas as to what the problem could be as far as mechanical or even the tuner just sucking open to any ideas please help
Thanks for the videos brother, just bought my 3rd rx8 and two renesis motors to rebuild and add a carburetor. Wish me luck haha
Bro you are so smart with these cars. I hope to buy a junkyard of them someday and take them apart and learn as much as you did
I was able to remove the lower intake without pulling the engine. You just have to remove the Phillips screw connecting the sleeves to the rod inside the intake. Pain in the ass and will still need to pull the motor but I did it lol.
2 strokes actually do have valves. Please look up the definition of a "valve" before arguing.
Royal Purple and Idemitsu both have rotary specific synthetic oil that is highly tested. Other then that I would always stick to traditional.
Rx8 do not require pre mix because they had oil inyectors that inyect oil directly inside the combustion chamber.
The inly thing I don't like about rx models is the idiots who make them so loud and drive like idiots.
Yeah I might keep this car it seems like they are made for someone with a lead foot that's definitely me
The best advise I’ve seen without making things complicated….. brrrp….brrrp
30 k miles between rebuilds?
The engine is pathetic.🤡
When it comes to premixing is things like lucus fuel injector cleaner good and do you need to premix with that? Or is there recommendations of lubes not oils you can use?
well, probably gonna star saving for an rx8 jajaja, great vid
Dude. Your videos are awesome! I saw a lot of videos on the rotary but it’s good to make a video on these important parts too!
Lol that thing have power valves liike a modern 2 stroke. I didn't expect that
I definitley installed my lower intake manifold after setting the motor in
Do you have a video of installing a stand alone tank for the omp
Bro im looking for rx8 to be my first car should i go for it..?
You know any tricks for o2 defoulers on the rx8. The cats are expensive i got a new one but im trying to preserve it and put the old gutted one back on.
Wait so on a daily you don’t recommend premixing at all?
Im trying to buy one at the moment, I'll be sure to favourite your video so I can use this for reference during my own maintenance
Love it!
I own an RX8 and I premix w/o any of the mods you mentioned. Just recently I got a code. P0410. Secondary airpump issue. I’m not sure if it’s bc I premix, but my 8 has been really reliable so far. 111k miles 😅
Hello how are you? I like your information.
What do you use for an air filter element now the air box has been removed? And where have
you installed the battery? Thankyou from Brian from Australia.
@@briannielsen5073 I’m fine! Glad you asked! You?
It’s stock everything. I’m thinking about getting those mods at some point.
You should be using an ashless burning formula brand for your two stroke oil. It's possible that your cat is clogged and causing the air pump to back up in itself. I believe this can be a common issue, as the pump is really a simple system and operates well otherwise. It's not needed and can be removed without affecting engine performance, but you'll need to have block off the lines and it will be better to run without a cat.
I'm going through the same issue but I have emission requirements where I live at, so I'd like to have it all operate correctly, but the proper replacement parts are not cheap. I'm not actually sure that my pump is bad, but there could also be a clog in not only the cat, but also in the secondary valve that allows the air pump to deliver the air when needed. I believe it can go bad from said cat blockage, causing exhaust to get into the valve. Also, removing the system will allow the engine to operate normally, but there will be a code and check engine light staying on.
Thanks for another great video Erich! You might wanna make a seat for Leddy in the green machine before she gets run over. 😬 Wish I had the tools & confidence to pull my perfectly running Renesis so I can inspect and clean my lower intake. Rock on!
Blud almost ran over his dog like 4 times
How can i reset security on 2010 rx8 ?
Shouldn't allow the dog keep on going so close to the car.
Did you try to sell this car 😢
Damn, I thought the dog was gonna be toast!
What's the best treatment for the 5&6 port cleaning? Seafoam? Or valve cleaning treatment?
Removal and cleaning is best, but I've heard of detergents working as well. Just be mindful that it's all going to have to pass or attempt to pass through the cat.. so if it's not clear to begin with, then it's liable to make things worse without a good flowing exhaust.
Love your videos mate.. I think I saw a mini filter fitted somewhere near the engine oil cap... can you please explain how that is fitted... I've seen that there is a vaccum hose that is fitted down there which comes from the air intake, is it just blocked off and the mini filter fitted?
Yep that is exactly what is done. the crank case vent would connect to the throttle body elbow
But what about those shitty apex seals.
Where can I purchase this engine please?
That dog is playing with his life 😢
Great stuff! We agree with a lot of this. Thanks for sharing your RX8 knowledge and passion
Ive had thoughts about getting an RX8 as a daily driver. I live down here in Florida where it is really hot every day. Some days it will rain a lot and it can be really humid some days. I understand one of the elephants in the room was premixing your RX8. I dont know if this would be ideal in the hot Florida weather conditions or if I should run thick oil lile 20W50 VR1 you mentioned. I would like to daily drive it but also beat on it at times too. I would generally like to address its cooling, ignition systems so the car does run efficiently just as much as I had thought about how cool it would be to bridgeport an RX8 because Brap braps. I am still learning in the field as a car mechanic and the only Dorito powered shop near by is Pettit Racing which is 1 hour south from my location.
your dog is faster lol!!!!😅
Your dogs also crazy :) yeah awesome vids I want to get an RX8 when I get to the States