I went to a dealer a couple days ago without calling first for the OTD price, the guy sat me down to go over numbers and tacked on a $2k "vehicle reconditioning fee". I politely asked for that fee to be removed, he refused. So I said thank you for your time. He replied, "do you really want to leave here without a car after spending 2 hours with me?" I said, yes, and walked out. Called around for OTD prices and details of taxes and fees, spoke with the sales manager at a dealer who didn't try to convince me to come in for the price. They took $1000 off of the sales price, and only charged doc, T&L, and tax. I saved $3000 on that deal for an even better car, got exactly what I wanted.
Congratulations L M! You did great by walking out of the first dealership and then finding a dealership that was willing to work with you on your terms. Good job, you! Stay safe, Ray
Last car purchase I had a price $1500 less (exact same car) from a dealer that was one hour further of a drive from my house. I went to the closest dealership and upfront told them the price I needed and how I got that number. I also told them if that wouldn't work that I understood and I would just leave. Didn't want to waste everyone's time. Over an hour later of playing the game I simply walked out and drove to the other dealership and bought the car. 2 extra hours of drive time was worth $1,500 to me. Frustrating that even if you are completely up front they still insist on wasting everyone's time with the game. The dealer I bought the car off of actually drove it to my house for free by the way and met me at the registry (bought in different state from where I live) which was 90 minutes away!!!
I had the second in command pushing his numbers to try to sell me a car. Told me he was selling it at invoice price (which is what I wanted). I requested to see the invoice statement. He said "We don't do that. Told him "Then how do I know what you're telling me IS the invoice price" (I already knew invoice beforehand). "You just have to take my word for it". I replied "Well, I don't know you well enough to take your word for it". He responded "Then we shouldn't be doing business". I looked at him and said "Exactly". Then proceeded to walk away. Not a good way to start customer satisfaction.
Thanks for your videos. I bought a car yesterday. Found a vehicle sitting on a lot for 109 days and saw it was reduced in price several times during the last two months that I’ve been looking. I got a value significantly higher for my trade higher than several other local dealers offered. The vehicle was at a rural location and didn’t fit in the market it was in. After talking to the Sales rep he said some times they sit and sometimes they sell. I basically asked what my trade was worth and what his best price was. The vehicle was 6 hr from where I live and we met half way to do paper work. Based on the local market I got 1500 more for my trade and the vehicle was $2000-4000 lower than in local market .
Hey guys, my dad was in the car business (Hudson Valley, New York) for years and he and I used to have very similar talks/education sessions just like you two, all the time. You guys really remind me of that. Great service you are providing. I used to take what my dad taught me and help sailors buy cars (I was career Navy).
Control should be the Prime Directive for anyone buying or leasing a vehicle. The simple reality is every car buyer actually has control. The only way the sales staff can assume control is if the buyer relinguishes that control to the dealer. A new car is a commodity, available at many places. On the flip side the dealer does not know when another buyer will appear to buy the particular vehicle the buyer wants to buy. That gives control to the buyer. The buyer who loses control loses. And the buyer must always recognize those dealer fees are FAKE, period.
I’ve been a buyer many times. I’ve been in sales for 40 years. There’s one thing you need to remember. Never in human history has there ever been a voluntary transaction where both parties didn’t feel they were benefiting. Not once. Neither the buyer nor the seller holds all the cards. If you’re the buyer and you want to buy something, don’t think for a moment that you have all the power. You don’t. The seller already knows that they don’t have all the power either. There’s no more shame in a dealer trying to sell a car for as much as they can, than there is in you trying to buy it for as little as you can. The seller is not your enemy. You as the buyer are not their enemy. Treat each other with respect, and you’ll both have a better outcome and a much more comfortable interaction.
Right! I just agreed to a good deal on a Nissan truck but the finance manager refused to send me the documentation for the deal before delivery, so I am moving on. Feel somewhat bad for the salesperson as he was transparent about everything.
I did this, thank you! I called the 5 hyundai dealers nearest to me to see who had the best price(I was looking to pay msrp or less not a cent more). I found one that was 2000 over due to dealer add ons(that I didn't care one bit for), I told them to remove the add ons because I didn't want to pay for them and they said they couldn't remove it but, the could lower the price by 500 so I told them I would keep looking. Then, I found another that was like 4000 over and didn't want to work with me so I told them thank you and have a great day. I called the 3rd dealer that finally offered me a few dollars below msrp(obviously I went with this one). With the taxes and all the fees it came to 40k and some(can't remember the exact amount). While in the process the dealer that didn't want to work with me called me and told me they would match the price but, without taxes and fees so I told them I already had a better price from the dealer right down the road from them. Long story short, do research and use it as leverage!
The whole process is to " Wear you down" once people realize this, it's easy. The minute you feel like you're getting jerked around and intentionally "wasting your time" it's better to just walk. Many people are naive, and follow the path, that has been created for them to walk the trail. The first thing that people want to do is trust the sale rep for being honest and sincere. You have to remember, the sales rep makes a commission, it's the sales manager who gives the sales rep the nod to let it go at a certain price. The sales rep is surmising you, and the sales manager is working the puppet strings. He is having the sales rep do, what he does. The "out the door" price is the absolute only way to make a purchase.
Using this channels tactics is a sure fire way to speed up the deal. In my case they started moving very quickly. The more I scrutinized and pointed out errors. They quickly fixed it and we finally agreed on the deal after back and forth. But using these guys tactics is a sure fire way to get in and out. I didn’t spend all day in the dealer surprisingly lol. Was done and signed in less than 4hrs
I'm trying to help my daughter get the Rav4 limited she wants , so I went to your site. Wow , what great information ! Your suggested offer was $37,989. With $2664 in manufacturer rebate and dealer discount , her OTD is $37,300 (b4 TTL which is 3438} ! I guess I'll recommend she close the deal. Any comments guys (YAA)?
@@drink15 Exactly! Why would anyone want to buy a new car? Businesses are different, depreciation is a business expense. However, the "new car dealer" selling only to other business customers is a broken business model.
Broken business model??!!! Hahaha after all the records are broken during the "pandemic" for units and gross keeping the economy going... yeah broken business model... 🤔
This actually happened to me this summer. They made an offer with my trade in, I counter offered as usual. What was surprising was not closing the deal but they were not interested in negotiating. In all my years of buying this has never happened to me. I walked thinking they will call or text me with a followup. None. The funny part is the car I was looking at is still at the lot 4 months later!
Thats because demand has barely changed meanwhile offer almost went 0 because of covid, plants shut down so there were 0 cars beign produced. Dealees are taking advantage of this and not negotiating.
The customer ALWAYS has the leverage when you don’t need a vehicle but rather want a new vehicle. I’ve stated that fact and I’ve also walked out and ultimately got a callback the next day or was offered a deal that I was willing to accept. Just be reasonable and hold your ground. Even ask for more but be willing to support it with some actual information and be willing to give a little as they counter. It works all of the time.
"We don't do that" are words from a business that wants the customer to work around their wants and needs. Feel free to tell the sales person, I've been here 2 minutes and already it's miserable.
I once drove on a lot, a sales guy approached smoking a cigarette and he had a gold chain around his neck .. I looked at him and started screaming "get the fuck away from me your fucking loser" .. and left
I had a “fun” time at the dealership buying my first car. They showed me something I didn’t want to see because it was too expensive. I decided to test drive it anyway, then they tried to convince me to buy it. I told them my dad will sell me his car for very cheap and I don’t see why I should get their overpriced car. They told me they can’t beat my dad’s deal. So I told them I’m leaving, they called in some top manager that managed the other managers. He asked me what I can afford. I told him a price. He tried to get me a price as close to mine as possible, he ended up reducing the car by about 1500$ when it was already cheap to begin with. He seemed really nice and caring, I didn’t feel taken advantage of by him like I felt by the other managers. I ended up with a 2019 Nissan Sentra S, 7k miles for 16,500$. I’m not sure if that’s a good deal but it does seem to be about 2k cheaper than the other listings online of the same type of car.
Don't buy a Subaru . We have had nothing but major problems with ours including 2 engine rebuilds by the dealership , transmission problems and now AC condenser needs replacing at 90,000 miles . Go find another car . The Subaru dealer is doing you a favor ☺️
Ive had 2 crosstrek and outback never ĥad a problem just had the 2013 crosstrek long enough wated a outback i had no problem with it will buy subaru again
@Steven GENNERO Bootz I would never leave a deposit because that would give the dealer leverage; I would only show up to make the deal and do all the negotiating before I ever show up (new cars only). Also, $75 per month is a large sum of money; I would have walked out too.
@@AmmaLove24 it isn’t that we don’t need you. It’s just that we can’t stay in business selling the few cars we have at the same discounts we’d usually sell them for. There are more buyers than there are cars right now.
I’m very new to the channel and an even newer member to the site. I’m not sure if you were around in 2017 but I wish I knew then what I know now when I bought my 2017 Ford Escape. My father had taught me some stuff but nothing like what I’ve learned since finding the channel. I definitely could have saved my self more money especially since it was a cash deal
I WANT to buy a full sized truck right now. I don't need to buy one right now, and with historically low inventories, my only negotiating chip is that I don't have to buy. The specific truck I'm shopping for has a rare options package, and the closest one is 180 miles away, and the dealer knows there aren't others close by. He told me that I would get the best possible deal if I drive 3 hours and negotiate in person. I told him that any price his manager would approve in person, he can approve via email. That was over a week ago, and he still has the truck.
No surprise; they were gonna work you over big time in the showroom and finance. They figure you won't let yourself go home empty handed at any price after that trip.
@@markh.6687 Exactly! I haven't gone into a dealership without an email confirmed OTD price in over 20 years. I'm not going to drive 3 hours to watch a salesperson play a shell game!
I just bought a 2020 Mazda CX-5. I ended up driving to 4 Mazda dealers in the Phoenix area. I told each exactly what I wanted (didn’t care about color, didn’t want to work to a payment, wanted the best out the door price) and gave all three dealers one shot to best my best offer. It took forever and left three salespeople annoyed. Can you offer better strategy to others to avoid this?
The best weapon you have against a dealer who acts like they don't want to play ball is direct evidence of a competing dealer offering the same vehicle for less. Research is your friend, and always be willing to walk if the deal isn't right for you. Have a realistic ceiling in mind that you're willing to pay and don't go over it.
Here in Dallas/Fort Worth, it's as if all the dealers have agreed on a certain strategy, which is add a dealer "protection package" including paint sealant, windshield chip repair, dent/ding removal, tinting and roadside assistance (even if the latter is already included as a standard, such as Toyota Care). Total is $1095..on top of $2k to $4k of other adds/fees, and no DFW dealers will negtiate. And this is after adding $2k to $9k ABOVE MSRP. It's frustrating.
Stay away from the dealerships!!! Its like a members only club! Yes they are all on the same page! Find a small auto lot that is reputable (I know, is there such a thing?) but at least you might be able to negotiate a better deal. The dealerships are all "Take it or leave it" especially now!
@@coozbee I agree, but unfortunately I'm in the market for a new RAV4 so I think I'm stuck with the big dealership. By the way I was trying to do a factory order when I ran into so much BS.
I bought a 2020 CR-V yesterday. The dealer would not negotiate the price. They said they don't negotiate the prices of their used cars (ever) because they price them so reasonably. Unfortunately (and fortunately?) he was right, so I didn't have any leverage. The car was priced very reasonably. He gave me the OTD number, which was the price listed plus tax, etc. And that was it. No weird fees or add ons. He didn't even ask me how I was paying until after I accepted the OTD price. I took the deal, because I wanted that car, and I could afford the listed price. I know there were other cars like it other places (priced the same or higher), and maybe I could have saved $1000 with another dealer with negotiation, but I just don't have the energy to keep going to dealerships. Luckily, I keep my cars for a really long time (last time 14 years), so I don't have to deal with this process for quite some time. Some of us really, really, really hate negotiation! I would honestly just rather pay more than go through that. I would also never take a price I didn't think was fair. But trying to get the price the absolute lowest I can? Too stressful.
YOU ARE THE BUYER, YOU HAVE ALL THE POWER!!!!! You can find a car anywhere that fits what you are looking for, there are hundreds of millions of cars you can buy, so yeah, you have all the power. If the dealer doesnt like it, then leave and find one that will sell you a car on your terms. Just make it super clear that this is how its going to go, and thats just what it is
You just hit the nail on the head with this video. Newer to your channel and love your efforts. I sent this to Kevin Hunter and also another fav guy Mike the Chevy Dude. Here is my question for you: Hitting the "road" and calling to make deals, in todays climate I need to know if they are willing to deal BEFORE even getting there. Previously I'd go in person but in this case I wont commit to the drive if they after 20 minutes of answering questions about the car wont come even close in the pricing you outlined with KBB calculations etc. I've gotten the "right now with the internet I put the best price out bc it would be easy to tell if they are inflated" response. They offered $100 off on a $39k new car....what a joke. Im in Madison Wisconsin here "metropolitan", and rural Wisconsin Dealer is the dealer. I mentioned Cox Automotive and Manheim auctions, being aware of dealer commission and PAC, and considering an offer that would still make them profit plus finance with them. Offered $33k and even coming up to $34 max and kept getting the run around about they dont make that much money on a car bla bla bla. Low trade (excellent condition) was $30,500, likely purchase was $30-30,600. I'm about ready to walk in an make a deal at CarMax since I've known exact spec I want for over a year now. Whats your take on the "traditional dealers" and not wanting to budge. I dont have time to mess around and wait until end of month etc. For that reason I may end up with the straight shooting Carmax to just get a deal done numbers out the door reasonably.
"For that reason I may end up with the straight shooting Carmax to just get a deal done numbers out the door reasonably." (I know this comment was a year ago but for anyone else thinking the same way...). So what are you waiting for? You have your great deal all set up with Carmax but you want to continue to dick around with trying to force other dealers to negotiate with you? Then complain you don't have time? Makes no sense. They don't want your business! Move on.
@@j.frankparnell3087 I agree with what you mentioned and putting it out there for someone who may relate and find value. At the end of the day I learned a lot over time with their and others videos. No complaints here either, just giving feedback from the real world so others can see the signs as they are looking around and hone in their options. Then to recognize what would be a good "buy it now" scenario, and act with confidence. Nothing about no time was mentioned. Simple qualifying phone calls can be short and professional. Though no need to drive 2 hours, when a simple phone call was sufficient. Just like the phone call and car we bought 1 hour away, ready to sign upon looking it over. We got exactly all the specs we were looking for at reasonable price, and we love it. Why was I considering that other rural option? The short answer to why I would have my mind set on anther car: it was a newer lower mileage vehicle that would have made sense for the extra money spent. Also because cars with certain options are quick selling. BTW I patiently looked around for about 1-2 years, we didn't "need" a new car, so having patience to get exactly what we were looking for was important for the long haul. Had a few on the radar but slipped away and that was fine. It's a very specific model and then the extra options that we figured to buy up now, as we'll have it for 10+ years. My advice if your not in a hurry to buy something, consider how often the desired vehicle with specs is on the market, and make decision based on that, paying a little extra if needed to get what you really enjoy. Cars are just an item to be sold, to someone wanting to buy it at that moment. It doesn't matter that it would be the right fit for your family, its just a product and will be sold as fast as desired.
If going to start purchasing a pre-owned car, I'll start by going to my insurance company first and find out what they would give as a payout for a car with the mileage I'm looking for and condition, if that vehicle was totaled. This is just my guess, I believe what the insurance company would give me for that vehicle is the true value of that vehicle.
In the State of NH doc fees are capped at 27 dollars BUT the dealer can charge whatever they want for "administrative fees" which can be anywhere from 175 to 500 dollars.
When I lived in MD, the deal was often, they would give you a low discount on the car and good deal on the trade as you paid sales tax on the sale price. I live in SC now. They charge you property tax which really doesn't have anything to do with what you paid so better to get a better price on the car.
You mentioned in your video to use the market price report to find a good / fair price to buy a car. What about using the Kelly Blue Book trade in values and use the”good” value? So using the low trade in value + $100 and adding $500 for commission plus $1250 to the high trade in value to come up with a price range to choose a value. And that would be in the center of these numbers to use as your offer. So you have as a customer an offer to give them instead of negotiating a deal.
Thanks for the advice! I'm currently looking for a used car but work long hours and am trying to get as much information as I can remotely, which seems very difficult.
Hello Thank you for the informative video. Not sure if you can answer this, but here goes. Wanting to purchase a 2021 Toyota Rav4 Prime SE. I'm in OK so naturally there isn't any here, have to deal with dealerships outside my state. I'm checked and due to supply and demand, these Rav4 Primes sell quick. Some dealers in Co even telling me $10000 added onto the MSRP...now that is just crazy. I found one in NY, put a down payment on it. Then a day later, calls me back saying, because it is a Model 4544C and not a model 4544A there is a $600 difference and so instead of OTD price of $41773 it is now $42373. He asked if I wanted to cancel and get my refund back or continue with it knowing it is $42373 OTD....sounded fair enough to me, so I agreed. I know that it is on the way from Japan due to the demand and will be here around Mid June. That was a week ago and no other changes, only that he emailed me telling me it will be here Mid June. My question is, if by some chance the salesman or dealership comes back saying "Ooh..due to high demand there's an additional $500 or $1000, etc that needs to be added on." If I disagree and don't want to continue, can I get my deposit back? If they try to go around and beat the bush about the refund, any recommendations from you guys? I did put the reserve on my card, can I do something on that end? I don't know the legal aspects of it since I'm purchasing out of state and maybe you guys can send some light on it? I just want to plan ahead for any possible scenarios. I would appreciate any feedback. Thank you and stay safe. JT
I have found the best way to negotiate is to get up and leave. Did it twice in the last 20 years and I never got to the door before the manager jumped in and got the deal done. 1st one got another $3500 off and 2nd got $2750 better.
i waa asked by a car salesman, "What can I do to sell you the car?" I replied, "lower the price". He didn't. I walked. I got it at a lower price at another dealer. A few years later, that dealership who didn't lower the price went out of business. His lesson? Next time, lower the price.
How would you negotiate during these times where dealerships say they have no inventory - you have to be placed on a waiting list. You want a particular car just like thousands of others in your general vicinity... so dealerships are selling ABOVE the printed MSRP
Just keep in mind there is such thing as being too aggressive. If you come out right away and sound too demanding or rude then they'll likely not care to help you buy a car but help you out the door. You can be "in control" while still being reasonable and polite. Its not personal, they can do the deal or they can't. The real truth is that you never know if you got "the best deal" unless you are the manager and you sold yourself the car. Even the salesman doesn't know what "the best deal" would've been. They just know how much the deal made or lost once you drive the car off the lot. You know your budget so shop within that budget and find what works best for you. Good luck on your next purchase
In June of 2019 I visited a half-dozen Ford dealers in Arkansas to buy an SUV. All of them jerked me around and one even committed fraud by falsifying my credit app. When I found my car in another state 700 miles away, I got that dealer to deliver the car to my house including sales tax for cheaper than any of the Arkansas dealers without sales tax. What is wrong with that picture?
Around 5 years ago, i told a salesman in the parking lot I'd give him a hundred bucks if he could me the car i wanted at the price i wanted. I don't know if it actually worked but i bought the car that day and he got his hundred.
What sucks now is the fact that inventory is low on new/used markets, demand is high. Somehow everyone has money to spend now, therefore majority of the dealers wont play ball.
I have tried to negotiate with several dealers and not one in my area will negotiate even a penny off. They are all telling me that they are selling at cost to push more volume. $5,000 off is obviously too much. However I refuse to pay $58,000 for a truck that is worth only $37,000 trade in value the moment I drive off the lot. Hard to refinance out of a high interest payment when rates drop if your $20,000 upside down.
I recently had an exact a Dodge dealership, I was interested in a leftover 2020 Dodge Challenger. It was the right color, had all the options I wanted. In other words automotive nirvana. Took the car on a test ride , it had been sitting so long the tires had flat spots on them. When it came down to negotiate I made what I thought was a fair offer. I was told they were a no dicker dealership and they were holding out for full MSRP. I just laughed at the guy and left.
I just found you on youtube and am in the process of buying a car. I have found the car I want and believe the price is fair, but could be a bit lower. I have looked at various car sites and they say it's a good deal.
Dealer won't give me an out the door price then I'm out the door. How can someone even be expected to make a purchase without knowing the actual price? All that tells me is they have every intention of ripping me off. Buh-bye.
Well, years ago I got walked out of a Toyota dealership when they couldn't convince me to pay more for a stripped Tercel than a slightly more contented Ford Escort. As the sales manager showed me the exit, he said in his Middle Eastern accent "Go buy your Ford Escort! You'll have to buy 2 or 3!" Dealers in the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex can be kinda funny. If you show you're not an easy mark, they'll let you walk, and they might even walk you out and say something snarky as they do. I've been refused test drives on a couple of occasions as well, and these were common cars or trucks. Nothing rare or out of my range.
I painfully walked out after 7 hours of my life😩🥺. I didn’t realize that that much time went buy. They weren’t willing to negotiate ANYTHING. Can you do a video on the Haggle free dealerships?
Just came across you guys. Wish you existed two years ago when I bought a Subaru Forester from Subaru of Brampton. Worst decision I’ve made in my life. Should have realized the tactics and left to get another vehicle. . . I was that easy to sell chump that couldn’t get my CVT fixed under warranty lol.
I cannot imaging a much worse experience than that of purchasing a new car from a dealer. I'd rather have a root canal without anesthetic, or maybe a toe nail pulled off with a pair of rusty pliers. The problem is that the only way you can avoid being completely screwed is for you to make it a strictly adversarial negotiation. You are basically enemy combatants operating under two entirely different rules of engagement. While the salesman keeps smiling at you through gritted teeth, you know he's thinking, "What do I have to do to move this asshole off his number?"
You probably never considered that you’re the one making the process unpleasant. All the proof of that is in your own comments here. Don’t be an asshole and you won’t be treated like an asshole. You know what a dealer owes you ? Nothing, they owe you nothing. Be nice to them and 99% of the time they’ll be nice to you. You will probably spend your whole life failing to realize that you are the asshole. Not just when it comes to a car purchase. Nobody owes you anything.
Now I'm assuming that if you were going to either order a car, or buy one off the lot, and your parent worked for this manufacturer and you get the discount, you still want to negotiate a OTD price.? Then spring this on the dealership after you got them to take money off the MSRP.?
Ray and zak I am 71 years old going to buy economy car Kia forte not a lot of money but will probably my last new car yes I am going to pay cash to avoid f and I person in Maryland by law you still talk to f and I person but I will not need to buy extra anything going to ask for out the door price with a smile on my face and kindness in my heart wish me luck won’t happen until middle of December will watch your videos until then thanks for all the knowledge I will put it to good use thanks jake
On more than one car purchase, when reaching an impasse with the sales person or manager, I will take my wallet out and lay it on their desk and point to it and state that I am in charge of this not them. That usually helps my case but it has angered a few of them also. LOL
Been watching several of your videos. Thanks very informative. Trying to use your information for a Ram 1500. Not making much headway just yet but they are still communicating with me.
Ive started walking out on buying an older BMW but it had 2 worn tires. After I got up from my chair to leave, the sales guy went to his manager and asked what tires I wanted lol
I did car sales they lied to their new sales associates, I was told the minimum commission was $100 but found out on a split deal was $50.00 which was the true minimum with 4 hours to close a deal at $50.00 commission it was not worth it that was on COSCO deals which Was real bad deal for the salesman, the Minimum commission should be $200 for a new car and $100 for the mini deal. Then that would be more fair for the sales associate. Then there would be less turn over, of salesman.
Hey , you guys are great! Ive been watching your videos for a long time now. You guys are so helpful. I’ve got a different situation, what if I ordered the car just like I want it and it’s got a price based on “ how I want the car”?? For example if I ordered it to my specs and it amounts to $40k, will I have any room to negotiate or that’s what I gotta work with?
If its a Used Car/CPO, check with the other dealers, go to cargurus they tell what is available in your area. Exactly what Ray Just said. Can I have that Knowledge is Power T-Shirt now, please!
When a dealership will not work with you then you don’t need to be purchasing a new to you vehicle. You go to another dealership to find the vehicle you want and need!
I looked at your app on the website and i have a correction to make: Oklahoma sales tax is 1.25% on cars plus it uses Excise tax @ 3.25% on new cars or $20 on the first 1500.00 +3.25% on the remainder for used
Most reputable dealers allow you build and structure your payments online. Which will include tax, title and license fees. If your dealership doesn’t do that, go find one that does. It cuts down on the BS at the dealership.
I certainly appreciate your insight into working with dealers, however I’m just wondering when was the last time you went to a dealership and actually tried to purchase a car? Seems to me that you are not taking into account the current car market of dealerships not negotiating.
I went to a dealer a couple days ago without calling first for the OTD price, the guy sat me down to go over numbers and tacked on a $2k "vehicle reconditioning fee". I politely asked for that fee to be removed, he refused. So I said thank you for your time. He replied, "do you really want to leave here without a car after spending 2 hours with me?" I said, yes, and walked out. Called around for OTD prices and details of taxes and fees, spoke with the sales manager at a dealer who didn't try to convince me to come in for the price. They took $1000 off of the sales price, and only charged doc, T&L, and tax. I saved $3000 on that deal for an even better car, got exactly what I wanted.
Congratulations L M! You did great by walking out of the first dealership and then finding a dealership that was willing to work with you on your terms. Good job, you! Stay safe, Ray
@@CarEdge thank you!
LOL, did he give you these eyes as he said that 🥺?
@@Lightwaverable yes lol
Last car purchase I had a price $1500 less (exact same car) from a dealer that was one hour further of a drive from my house. I went to the closest dealership and upfront told them the price I needed and how I got that number. I also told them if that wouldn't work that I understood and I would just leave. Didn't want to waste everyone's time. Over an hour later of playing the game I simply walked out and drove to the other dealership and bought the car. 2 extra hours of drive time was worth $1,500 to me. Frustrating that even if you are completely up front they still insist on wasting everyone's time with the game. The dealer I bought the car off of actually drove it to my house for free by the way and met me at the registry (bought in different state from where I live) which was 90 minutes away!!!
I can’t stop watching these videos. It is the father - son interaction that hooked me
I had the second in command pushing his numbers to try to sell me a car. Told me he was selling it at invoice price (which is what I wanted). I requested to see the invoice statement. He said "We don't do that. Told him "Then how do I know what you're telling me IS the invoice price" (I already knew invoice beforehand). "You just have to take my word for it". I replied "Well, I don't know you well enough to take your word for it". He responded "Then we shouldn't be doing business".
I looked at him and said "Exactly".
Then proceeded to walk away.
Not a good way to start customer satisfaction.
Thanks for your videos. I bought a car yesterday. Found a vehicle sitting on a lot for 109 days and saw it was reduced in price several times during the last two months that I’ve been looking. I got a value significantly higher for my trade higher than several other local dealers offered. The vehicle was at a rural location and didn’t fit in the market it was in. After talking to the Sales rep he said some times they sit and sometimes they sell. I basically asked what my trade was worth and what his best price was. The vehicle was 6 hr from where I live and we met half way to do paper work. Based on the local market I got 1500 more for my trade and the vehicle was $2000-4000 lower than in local market .
Hey guys, my dad was in the car business (Hudson Valley, New York) for years and he and I used to have very similar talks/education sessions just like you two, all the time. You guys really remind me of that. Great service you are providing. I used to take what my dad taught me and help sailors buy cars (I was career Navy).
I used to teach salespeople that you never know when the customer stops negotiating
When a dealer wont negotiate with you the answer is pretty simple. Go somewhere else.
And quickly.
it's a Subaru dealership, they aren't abundant like a Nissan or toyota or ford
Lol, do we need a 14m video for that?
HomesliceDrummer was just saying since there aren’t many Subaru dealers, they have no obligation to discount their vehicles.
@@gmariogrand it's super easy to buy something in another state as well. Having less dealers doesn't make Subaru's more valuable.
I prefer this type of intro over the "this is a clip that you're going to see and hear again in a minute" style.
Control should be the Prime Directive for anyone buying or leasing a vehicle. The simple reality is every car buyer actually has control. The only way the sales staff can assume control is if the buyer relinguishes that control to the dealer.
A new car is a commodity, available at many places. On the flip side the dealer does not know when another buyer will appear to buy the particular vehicle the buyer wants to buy. That gives control to the buyer.
The buyer who loses control loses.
And the buyer must always recognize those dealer fees are FAKE, period.
I just realized the intro is inspired by Scotty lol
Rev up your references!
Me too 😅
Wonder if they’re gonna ring a bell at the end.
An “emulation”, yes. LOL
@@justicegusting2476it's not imitation. it's emulation... there's a difference. check with your lawyer.
I’ve been a buyer many times. I’ve been in sales for 40 years. There’s one thing you need to remember. Never in human history has there ever been a voluntary transaction where both parties didn’t feel they were benefiting. Not once. Neither the buyer nor the seller holds all the cards. If you’re the buyer and you want to buy something, don’t think for a moment that you have all the power. You don’t. The seller already knows that they don’t have all the power either. There’s no more shame in a dealer trying to sell a car for as much as they can, than there is in you trying to buy it for as little as you can. The seller is not your enemy. You as the buyer are not their enemy. Treat each other with respect, and you’ll both have a better outcome and a much more comfortable interaction.
If they won't give you the out the door price, them YOU go out the door
The two of you make it much easier to walk away from an unsatisfactory deal without subconsciously feeling guilty. Thank you.
Right! I just agreed to a good deal on a Nissan truck but the finance manager refused to send me the documentation for the deal before delivery, so I am moving on. Feel somewhat bad for the salesperson as he was transparent about everything.
I did this, thank you! I called the 5 hyundai dealers nearest to me to see who had the best price(I was looking to pay msrp or less not a cent more). I found one that was 2000 over due to dealer add ons(that I didn't care one bit for), I told them to remove the add ons because I didn't want to pay for them and they said they couldn't remove it but, the could lower the price by 500 so I told them I would keep looking. Then, I found another that was like 4000 over and didn't want to work with me so I told them thank you and have a great day. I called the 3rd dealer that finally offered me a few dollars below msrp(obviously I went with this one). With the taxes and all the fees it came to 40k and some(can't remember the exact amount). While in the process the dealer that didn't want to work with me called me and told me they would match the price but, without taxes and fees so I told them I already had a better price from the dealer right down the road from them. Long story short, do research and use it as leverage!
The whole process is to " Wear you down" once people realize this, it's easy. The minute you
feel like you're getting jerked around and intentionally "wasting your time" it's better to just
walk. Many people are naive, and follow the path, that has been created for them to walk the
trail. The first thing that people want to do is trust the sale rep for being honest and sincere.
You have to remember, the sales rep makes a commission, it's the sales manager who gives
the sales rep the nod to let it go at a certain price. The sales rep is surmising you, and the sales manager is working the puppet strings. He is having the sales rep do, what he does. The
"out the door" price is the absolute only way to make a purchase.
Using this channels tactics is a sure fire way to speed up the deal. In my case they started moving very quickly. The more I scrutinized and pointed out errors. They quickly fixed it and we finally agreed on the deal after back and forth. But using these guys tactics is a sure fire way to get in and out. I didn’t spend all day in the dealer surprisingly lol. Was done and signed in less than 4hrs
I'm trying to help my daughter get the Rav4 limited she wants , so I went to your site. Wow , what great information ! Your suggested offer was $37,989. With $2664 in manufacturer rebate and dealer discount , her OTD is $37,300 (b4 TTL which is 3438} ! I guess I'll recommend she close the deal. Any comments guys (YAA)?
She is too young for that type of car .Get her a Toyota corolla!
This is exactly why dealerships are a dead business model. Zach and his dad are fun, however.
They are far from dead. Keep in mind they are the only place to buy a brand new car.
extremely far from dead, and it's been record sales month to month this entire year.
@@drink15 Exactly! Why would anyone want to buy a new car? Businesses are different, depreciation is a business expense. However, the "new car dealer" selling only to other business customers is a broken business model.
Broken business model??!!! Hahaha after all the records are broken during the "pandemic" for units and gross keeping the economy going... yeah broken business model... 🤔
@@LL120 dead, just like XOM
This actually happened to me this summer. They made an offer with my trade in, I counter offered as usual. What was surprising was not closing the deal but they were not interested in negotiating. In all my years of buying this has never happened to me. I walked thinking they will call or text me with a followup. None. The funny part is the car I was looking at is still at the lot 4 months later!
Thats because demand has barely changed meanwhile offer almost went 0 because of covid, plants shut down so there were 0 cars beign produced. Dealees are taking advantage of this and not negotiating.
The customer ALWAYS has the leverage when you don’t need a vehicle but rather want a new vehicle. I’ve stated that fact and I’ve also walked out and ultimately got a callback the next day or was offered a deal that I was willing to accept. Just be reasonable and hold your ground. Even ask for more but be willing to support it with some actual information and be willing to give a little as they counter. It works all of the time.
"We don't do that" are words from a business that wants the customer to work around their wants and needs. Feel free to tell the sales person, I've been here 2 minutes and already it's miserable.
I once drove on a lot, a sales guy approached smoking a cigarette and he had a gold chain around his neck .. I looked at him and started screaming "get the fuck away from me your fucking loser" .. and left
I had a “fun” time at the dealership buying my first car. They showed me something I didn’t want to see because it was too expensive. I decided to test drive it anyway, then they tried to convince me to buy it. I told them my dad will sell me his car for very cheap and I don’t see why I should get their overpriced car. They told me they can’t beat my dad’s deal. So I told them I’m leaving, they called in some top manager that managed the other managers. He asked me what I can afford. I told him a price. He tried to get me a price as close to mine as possible, he ended up reducing the car by about 1500$ when it was already cheap to begin with. He seemed really nice and caring, I didn’t feel taken advantage of by him like I felt by the other managers. I ended up with a 2019 Nissan Sentra S, 7k miles for 16,500$. I’m not sure if that’s a good deal but it does seem to be about 2k cheaper than the other listings online of the same type of car.
Thanks you guys. First time buying a new car since the 90's and that was a Saturn. No haggle
Don't buy a Subaru . We have had nothing but major problems with ours including 2 engine rebuilds by the dealership , transmission problems and now AC condenser needs replacing at 90,000 miles .
Go find another car . The Subaru dealer is doing you a favor ☺️
Omg- me too. Never again.
Ive had 2 crosstrek and outback never ĥad a problem just had the 2013 crosstrek long enough wated a outback i had no problem with it will buy subaru again
Very much enjoying you videos - friendly, engaging, humorous, and highly informative. Thanks!
When the dealer will not negotiate, walk out the showroom door. The dealer needs you more than you need him.
@Steven GENNERO Bootz I would never leave a deposit because that would give the dealer leverage; I would only show up to make the deal and do all the negotiating before I ever show up (new cars only). Also, $75 per month is a large sum of money; I would have walked out too.
Some North Texas dealers will let you walk. More people than you think go for the low hanging fruit. They're not willing to climb the tree.
That didn’t age well. Lol.
Except for 2021...the dealer does not need us that much anymore. They are making bank.
@@AmmaLove24 it isn’t that we don’t need you. It’s just that we can’t stay in business selling the few cars we have at the same discounts we’d usually sell them for. There are more buyers than there are cars right now.
Worked for 3 dealers, accurate information and yes this guy's prices are highly inflated.
I’m very new to the channel and an even newer member to the site. I’m not sure if you were around in 2017 but I wish I knew then what I know now when I bought my 2017 Ford Escape. My father had taught me some stuff but nothing like what I’ve learned since finding the channel. I definitely could have saved my self more money especially since it was a cash deal
I love how your guys interact!
I WANT to buy a full sized truck right now. I don't need to buy one right now, and with historically low inventories, my only negotiating chip is that I don't have to buy. The specific truck I'm shopping for has a rare options package, and the closest one is 180 miles away, and the dealer knows there aren't others close by. He told me that I would get the best possible deal if I drive 3 hours and negotiate in person. I told him that any price his manager would approve in person, he can approve via email. That was over a week ago, and he still has the truck.
No surprise; they were gonna work you over big time in the showroom and finance. They figure you won't let yourself go home empty handed at any price after that trip.
@@markh.6687 Exactly! I haven't gone into a dealership without an email confirmed OTD price in over 20 years. I'm not going to drive 3 hours to watch a salesperson play a shell game!
I just bought a 2020 Mazda CX-5. I ended up driving to 4 Mazda dealers in the Phoenix area. I told each exactly what I wanted (didn’t care about color, didn’t want to work to a payment, wanted the best out the door price) and gave all three dealers one shot to best my best offer. It took forever and left three salespeople annoyed. Can you offer better strategy to others to avoid this?
Great advise for purchasing a new car as well. And a pleasure to watch these fellas.
The best weapon you have against a dealer who acts like they don't want to play ball is direct evidence of a competing dealer offering the same vehicle for less. Research is your friend, and always be willing to walk if the deal isn't right for you. Have a realistic ceiling in mind that you're willing to pay and don't go over it.
Here in Dallas/Fort Worth, it's as if all the dealers have agreed on a certain strategy, which is add a dealer "protection package" including paint sealant, windshield chip repair, dent/ding removal, tinting and roadside assistance (even if the latter is already included as a standard, such as Toyota Care). Total is $1095..on top of $2k to $4k of other adds/fees, and no DFW dealers will negtiate. And this is after adding $2k to $9k ABOVE MSRP. It's frustrating.
Stay away from the dealerships!!! Its like a members only club! Yes they are all on the same page! Find a small auto lot that is reputable (I know, is there such a thing?) but at least you might be able to negotiate a better deal. The dealerships are all "Take it or leave it" especially now!
@@coozbee I agree, but unfortunately I'm in the market for a new RAV4 so I think I'm stuck with the big dealership. By the way I was trying to do a factory order when I ran into so much BS.
There is a NO DOC FEE dealership in Waterville Maine and you can get a good deal there.
I bought a 2020 CR-V yesterday. The dealer would not negotiate the price. They said they don't negotiate the prices of their used cars (ever) because they price them so reasonably. Unfortunately (and fortunately?) he was right, so I didn't have any leverage. The car was priced very reasonably. He gave me the OTD number, which was the price listed plus tax, etc. And that was it. No weird fees or add ons. He didn't even ask me how I was paying until after I accepted the OTD price. I took the deal, because I wanted that car, and I could afford the listed price. I know there were other cars like it other places (priced the same or higher), and maybe I could have saved $1000 with another dealer with negotiation, but I just don't have the energy to keep going to dealerships. Luckily, I keep my cars for a really long time (last time 14 years), so I don't have to deal with this process for quite some time. Some of us really, really, really hate negotiation! I would honestly just rather pay more than go through that. I would also never take a price I didn't think was fair. But trying to get the price the absolute lowest I can? Too stressful.
Get up and walk away. Works for me every time.
YOU ARE THE BUYER, YOU HAVE ALL THE POWER!!!!! You can find a car anywhere that fits what you are looking for, there are hundreds of millions of cars you can buy, so yeah, you have all the power. If the dealer doesnt like it, then leave and find one that will sell you a car on your terms. Just make it super clear that this is how its going to go, and thats just what it is
You just hit the nail on the head with this video. Newer to your channel and love your efforts. I sent this to Kevin Hunter and also another fav guy Mike the Chevy Dude. Here is my question for you: Hitting the "road" and calling to make deals, in todays climate I need to know if they are willing to deal BEFORE even getting there. Previously I'd go in person but in this case I wont commit to the drive if they after 20 minutes of answering questions about the car wont come even close in the pricing you outlined with KBB calculations etc. I've gotten the "right now with the internet I put the best price out bc it would be easy to tell if they are inflated" response. They offered $100 off on a $39k new car....what a joke. Im in Madison Wisconsin here "metropolitan", and rural Wisconsin Dealer is the dealer. I mentioned Cox Automotive and Manheim auctions, being aware of dealer commission and PAC, and considering an offer that would still make them profit plus finance with them. Offered $33k and even coming up to $34 max and kept getting the run around about they dont make that much money on a car bla bla bla. Low trade (excellent condition) was $30,500, likely purchase was $30-30,600. I'm about ready to walk in an make a deal at CarMax since I've known exact spec I want for over a year now. Whats your take on the "traditional dealers" and not wanting to budge. I dont have time to mess around and wait until end of month etc. For that reason I may end up with the straight shooting Carmax to just get a deal done numbers out the door reasonably.
"For that reason I may end up with the straight shooting Carmax to just get a deal done numbers out the door reasonably."
(I know this comment was a year ago but for anyone else thinking the same way...). So what are you waiting for? You have your great deal all set up with Carmax but you want to continue to dick around with trying to force other dealers to negotiate with you? Then complain you don't have time? Makes no sense. They don't want your business! Move on.
@@j.frankparnell3087 I agree with what you mentioned and putting it out there for someone who may relate and find value. At the end of the day I learned a lot over time with their and others videos. No complaints here either, just giving feedback from the real world so others can see the signs as they are looking around and hone in their options. Then to recognize what would be a good "buy it now" scenario, and act with confidence. Nothing about no time was mentioned. Simple qualifying phone calls can be short and professional. Though no need to drive 2 hours, when a simple phone call was sufficient. Just like the phone call and car we bought 1 hour away, ready to sign upon looking it over. We got exactly all the specs we were looking for at reasonable price, and we love it. Why was I considering that other rural option? The short answer to why I would have my mind set on anther car: it was a newer lower mileage vehicle that would have made sense for the extra money spent. Also because cars with certain options are quick selling. BTW I patiently looked around for about 1-2 years, we didn't "need" a new car, so having patience to get exactly what we were looking for was important for the long haul. Had a few on the radar but slipped away and that was fine. It's a very specific model and then the extra options that we figured to buy up now, as we'll have it for 10+ years. My advice if your not in a hurry to buy something, consider how often the desired vehicle with specs is on the market, and make decision based on that, paying a little extra if needed to get what you really enjoy. Cars are just an item to be sold, to someone wanting to buy it at that moment. It doesn't matter that it would be the right fit for your family, its just a product and will be sold as fast as desired.
If going to start purchasing a pre-owned car, I'll start by going to my insurance company first and find out what they would give as a payout for a car with the mileage I'm looking for and condition, if that vehicle was totaled. This is just my guess, I believe what the insurance company would give me for that vehicle is the true value of that vehicle.
In the State of NH doc fees are capped at 27 dollars BUT the dealer can charge whatever they want for "administrative fees" which can be anywhere from 175 to 500 dollars.
Ray, how about this intro " c'mon Zach, get in and lets go cruise" .
"He who owns the gold, makes the rules". "He who has the checkbook, makes the rules".
Can't wait to try out the auto advocate guide, a great confidence builder. Thanks
I’m in the market for a brand new car and so want to wear a shirt from you guys when I purchase one! Come on Zach!
When I lived in MD, the deal was often, they would give you a low discount on the car and good deal on the trade as you paid sales tax on the sale price. I live in SC now. They charge you property tax which really doesn't have anything to do with what you paid so better to get a better price on the car.
Very helpful -thanks! I like how you keep adding to the info avail on your site.
Great channel. Thanksgiving livestream would be great. Especially in the Detroit area where the other option is the Lions game.
Anything taxed is negotiable but a T-day livestream is a must see. Large T
You mentioned in your video to use the market price report to find a good / fair price to buy a car. What about using the Kelly Blue Book trade in values and use the”good” value? So using the low trade in value + $100 and adding $500 for commission plus $1250 to the high trade in value to come up with a price range to choose a value. And that would be in the center of these numbers to use as your offer. So you have as a customer an offer to give them instead of negotiating a deal.
You would be a easy customer because you understand the process..and it's easier for all of us.
"I really want this car"
The factory punches out thousands of the exact same car every year. In other words, it has thousands of twins.
What's the prefix for that many "tuplets?"
@@Akronkangaroo I spent almost all day at the dealer. I bought the car for $7,000 less than sticker price. For me it was worth the time.
@@Akronkangaroo take a few hours to negotiate and save the amount of money it takes a week to earn. Worth the time...
Thanks for the advice! I'm currently looking for a used car but work long hours and am trying to get as much information as I can remotely, which seems very difficult.
Love the Ray Scotty Kilmer rip off opening. The next one should be Zach on his bike yelling to hop on!
it isn't their set intro/opening (i.e. they don't use it on their videos every time). its a simple nod to a great car youtuber
Hello
Thank you for the informative video. Not sure if you can answer this, but here goes. Wanting to purchase a 2021 Toyota Rav4 Prime SE. I'm in OK so naturally there isn't any here, have to deal with dealerships outside my state. I'm checked and due to supply and demand, these Rav4 Primes sell quick. Some dealers in Co even telling me $10000 added onto the MSRP...now that is just crazy. I found one in NY, put a down payment on it. Then a day later, calls me back saying, because it is a Model 4544C and not a model 4544A there is a $600 difference and so instead of OTD price of $41773 it is now $42373. He asked if I wanted to cancel and get my refund back or continue with it knowing it is $42373 OTD....sounded fair enough to me, so I agreed. I know that it is on the way from Japan due to the demand and will be here around Mid June. That was a week ago and no other changes, only that he emailed me telling me it will be here Mid June.
My question is, if by some chance the salesman or dealership comes back saying "Ooh..due to high demand there's an additional $500 or $1000, etc that needs to be added on." If I disagree and don't want to continue, can I get my deposit back? If they try to go around and beat the bush about the refund, any recommendations from you guys? I did put the reserve on my card, can I do something on that end?
I don't know the legal aspects of it since I'm purchasing out of state and maybe you guys can send some light on it? I just want to plan ahead for any possible scenarios.
I would appreciate any feedback. Thank you and stay safe.
JT
Nice work walking thru this real story and how your app can help. 👍
I have found the best way to negotiate is to get up and leave. Did it twice in the last 20 years and I never got to the door before the manager jumped in and got the deal done. 1st one got another $3500 off and 2nd got $2750 better.
Excellent information! Control and leverage... so important. Thank you!
i waa asked by a car salesman, "What can I do to sell you the car?" I replied, "lower the price". He didn't. I walked. I got it at a lower price at another dealer. A few years later, that dealership who didn't lower the price went out of business. His lesson? Next time, lower the price.
How would you negotiate during these times where dealerships say they have no inventory - you have to be placed on a waiting list. You want a particular car just like thousands of others in your general vicinity... so dealerships are selling ABOVE the printed MSRP
Love the insight...take control! Im going use this mind set next time I buy!
Just keep in mind there is such thing as being too aggressive. If you come out right away and sound too demanding or rude then they'll likely not care to help you buy a car but help you out the door. You can be "in control" while still being reasonable and polite. Its not personal, they can do the deal or they can't. The real truth is that you never know if you got "the best deal" unless you are the manager and you sold yourself the car. Even the salesman doesn't know what "the best deal" would've been. They just know how much the deal made or lost once you drive the car off the lot. You know your budget so shop within that budget and find what works best for you. Good luck on your next purchase
In June of 2019 I visited a half-dozen Ford dealers in Arkansas to buy an SUV. All of them jerked me around and one even committed fraud by falsifying my credit app. When I found my car in another state 700 miles away, I got that dealer to deliver the car to my house including sales tax for cheaper than any of the Arkansas dealers without sales tax. What is wrong with that picture?
I don't think you realize how difficult this is for most people. 9/10 people shy away from confrontation, for starters.
Around 5 years ago, i told a salesman in the parking lot I'd give him a hundred bucks if he could me the car i wanted at the price i wanted. I don't know if it actually worked but i bought the car that day and he got his hundred.
They would have sold you that car for that price without paying the salesperson 100 bucks. The salesperson doesn’t control pricing.
What sucks now is the fact that inventory is low on new/used markets, demand is high. Somehow everyone has money to spend now, therefore majority of the dealers wont play ball.
Always good to see a father and daughter that enjoys working together.
mARK! THATS FATHER AND HIS SON!
I have tried to negotiate with several dealers and not one in my area will negotiate even a penny off. They are all telling me that they are selling at cost to push more volume. $5,000 off is obviously too much. However I refuse to pay $58,000 for a truck that is worth only $37,000 trade in value the moment I drive off the lot. Hard to refinance out of a high interest payment when rates drop if your $20,000 upside down.
Can’t wait for the app Ray! Spot on!
I recently had an exact a Dodge dealership, I was interested in a leftover 2020 Dodge Challenger. It was the right color, had all the options I wanted. In other words automotive nirvana. Took the car on a test ride , it had been sitting so long the tires had flat spots on them. When it came down to negotiate I made what I thought was a fair offer. I was told they were a no dicker dealership and they were holding out for full MSRP. I just laughed at the guy and left.
I just found you on youtube and am in the process of buying a car. I have found the car I want and believe the price is fair, but could be a bit lower. I have looked at various car sites and they say it's a good deal.
Forewarned is forearmed. Knowledge is king. Know what you want and how much you want to pay. If they won't do it, walk out. One will.
Dealer won't give me an out the door price then I'm out the door. How can someone even be expected to make a purchase without knowing the actual price? All that tells me is they have every intention of ripping me off. Buh-bye.
I love your videos. If a salesperson doesn't negotiate, I would go elsewhere.
Well, years ago I got walked out of a Toyota dealership when they couldn't convince me to pay more for a stripped Tercel than a slightly more contented Ford Escort. As the sales manager showed me the exit, he said in his Middle Eastern accent "Go buy your Ford Escort! You'll have to buy 2 or 3!" Dealers in the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex can be kinda funny. If you show you're not an easy mark, they'll let you walk, and they might even walk you out and say something snarky as they do. I've been refused test drives on a couple of occasions as well, and these were common cars or trucks. Nothing rare or out of my range.
I painfully walked out after 7 hours of my life😩🥺. I didn’t realize that that much time went buy. They weren’t willing to negotiate ANYTHING. Can you do a video on the Haggle free dealerships?
Car Max
Just came across you guys. Wish you existed two years ago when I bought a Subaru Forester from Subaru of Brampton. Worst decision I’ve made in my life. Should have realized the tactics and left to get another vehicle. . . I was that easy to sell chump that couldn’t get my CVT fixed under warranty lol.
I cannot imaging a much worse experience than that of purchasing a new car from a dealer. I'd rather have a root canal without anesthetic, or maybe a toe nail pulled off with a pair of rusty pliers. The problem is that the only way you can avoid being completely screwed is for you to make it a strictly adversarial negotiation. You are basically enemy combatants operating under two entirely different rules of engagement. While the salesman keeps smiling at you through gritted teeth, you know he's thinking, "What do I have to do to move this asshole off his number?"
You probably never considered that you’re the one making the process unpleasant. All the proof of that is in your own comments here. Don’t be an asshole and you won’t be treated like an asshole. You know what a dealer owes you ? Nothing, they owe you nothing. Be nice to them and 99% of the time they’ll be nice to you. You will probably spend your whole life failing to realize that you are the asshole. Not just when it comes to a car purchase. Nobody owes you anything.
Loving the intro.
Thanks guys for fantastic advice really appreciate it 👍
Love the new opening with the car
He's channeling his inner Scotty Kilmer! :) Shhhh! Don't tell anyone!
Now I'm assuming that if you were going to either order a car, or buy one off the lot, and your parent worked for this manufacturer and you get the discount, you still want to negotiate a OTD price.? Then spring this on the dealership after you got them to take money off the MSRP.?
Ray and zak I am 71 years old going to buy economy car Kia forte not a lot of money but will probably my last new car yes I am going to pay cash to avoid f and I person in Maryland by law you still talk to f and I person but I will not need to buy extra anything going to ask for out the door price with a smile on my face and kindness in my heart wish me luck won’t happen until middle of December will watch your videos until then thanks for all the knowledge I will put it to good use thanks jake
Whats the out the door price on that green bicycle?
Zach I smell a new feature for the app “crowd sourced metric of how likely a particular vendor will negotiate pleasantly “
I’m getting close to attempting to make my car deal. I hope all that I’m leaning woks.
On more than one car purchase, when reaching an impasse with the sales person or manager, I will take my wallet out and lay it on their desk and point to it and state that I am in charge of this not them. That usually helps my case but it has angered a few of them also. LOL
Great stuff guy’s keep up the great video S
Been watching several of your videos. Thanks very informative. Trying to use your information for a Ram 1500. Not making much headway just yet but they are still communicating with me.
Because this information has you believing in unicorn deals.
Ive started walking out on buying an older BMW but it had 2 worn tires. After I got up from my chair to leave, the sales guy went to his manager and asked what tires I wanted lol
Why the hell would you buy a money pit like a BMW?
@@76macleod right? Especially a used BMW, heard that’s the worst things you can do
I love your videos - I can't stop watching them. (I think my wife is getting upset at me...)
😂
Love their love.
I did car sales they lied to their new sales associates, I was told the minimum commission was $100 but found out on a split deal was $50.00 which was the true minimum with 4 hours to close a deal at $50.00 commission it was not worth it that was on COSCO deals which
Was real bad deal for the salesman, the
Minimum commission should be $200 for a new car and $100 for the mini deal.
Then that would be more fair for the sales associate. Then there would be less turn over, of salesman.
Love it! That’s right, the buyer has the ultimate upper hand; NO...😂
Hey , you guys are great! Ive been watching your videos for a long time now. You guys are so helpful. I’ve got a different situation, what if I ordered the car just like I want it and it’s got a price based on “ how I want the car”?? For example if I ordered it to my specs and it amounts to $40k, will I have any room to negotiate or that’s what I gotta work with?
If its a Used Car/CPO, check with the other dealers, go to cargurus they tell what is available in your area. Exactly what Ray Just said. Can I have that Knowledge is Power T-Shirt now, please!
When a dealership will not work with you then you don’t need to be purchasing a new to you vehicle. You go to another dealership to find the vehicle you want and need!
I looked at your app on the website and i have a correction to make: Oklahoma sales tax is 1.25% on cars plus it uses Excise tax @ 3.25% on new cars or $20 on the first 1500.00 +3.25% on the remainder for used
Most reputable dealers allow you build and structure your payments online. Which will include tax, title and license fees. If your dealership doesn’t do that, go find one that does. It cuts down on the BS at the dealership.
2023 - new to this - was the app ever created? What’s it called?
I certainly appreciate your insight into working with dealers, however I’m just wondering when was the last time you went to a dealership and actually tried to purchase a car? Seems to me that you are not taking into account the current car market of dealerships not negotiating.
Doc fees are regulated in some states. In California i think it is $95. Videos out there about the doc fees ripoffs