If The Bleed doesn't work, Your Hydro Might need a Maintenance. The Internals of your Lever might had build Up Inside and Need Proper Lubrication, well might as well as the Caliper.
The caliper is positioned exactly opposite what is should be. Magura official always recommends removing the caliper so it hangs in the correct position for air to move upward and out of the system while bleeding. In your video, the caliper is position to only trap air up top while the exit port where you are bleeding is at the bottom. Error big time. Everything else, very nice.
Thanks for your feedback! We really appreciate it! We have heard of the suggestion to remove the caliper from the frame and to let it dangle vertically in order to create a clean, straightforward path for air bubbles to travel upward. If you have a bike stand, you can angle your bike as well to accomplish that without having to remove your caliper from the frame. In our experience, we haven’t found that to be an essential part of the process for a good bleed. The process of pushing fluid through the line is enough to flush out any bubbles along with the position of the caliper at the lowest part of the system allowing bubbles to rise to the surface. However, that’s definitely a useful tip to consider!!
I got this kit specifically because it said it was for Zoom brakes and that's the only video you don't have. My system is a total mutt, 4 piston calipers and an older Shimano style reservoir, I think. I'm about to find out. I already had a bleed kit, I just didn't know why I couldn't push fluid through. I didn't need this kit at all. I'd feel bad if it wasn't labeled "specifically designed for Zoom" my kit listed everything except Zoom, had this mentioned all the others I would have known it was all the same parts. Someone on Reddit had already told me to remove the reservoir cover and bladder. Sorry, but back it goes.
We’re sorry for the confusion. We reviewed the bleed kit listing that’s linked in this TH-cam tutorial, and it makes no mention of Zoom brakes. While we don’t have a Zoom tutorial just yet, bleeding your Zoom brakes should be very similar to [bleeding Tektro brakes](th-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/w-d-xo.html) OR our [Tektro tutorial video](th-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/w-d-xo.html) would mostly closely match the bleed process for Zoom hydraulic brakes. However, with you having an older Shimano style reservoir, I can see why you choose this video. I am a bit confused and would need some clarity to give you a more accurate answer. Did you purchase a kit specifically made for Zoom brakes? Or did you need to purchase one for Zoom brakes specifically (we do have one available)? We are happy to help in any of your bleeding needs!
@@bleedzonekits I had 2 bleed kits already, but I did not know the correct procedure for my Zoom brakes and obviously wasn't having any luck up top without removing the cover. So I ordered a 3rd kit, your Zoom brakes bleed kit. I was more frustrated that the seller of the brakes included no info despite many reviews stating that they couldn't bleed the brakes. I did return your kit, but there wasn't any issue, it's just that I didn't need it, but I didn't know that. I had more than I needed with the first two kits. I had been working on my car all week and was without transportation trying to bleed the brakes on my bike so I could get parts for the car.
@@BigFarm_ah365 Try a gravity flush/bleed. No kit needed. Maybe an empty bottle to catch the fluid at the bottom. Just have to keep topping it up at the reservoir if you don't have a dedicated port of bleeding at the reservoir.
It all depends on a person’s preference. We have plenty of affordable kits with only the basics you need or kits with the tools that you buy once and keep to reuse for all your bleeding needs 😊
After bleeding your brakes and replacing your brake pads, you definitely should have oil in the reservoir. However, to make sure that you do, you can always top the reservoir with additional mineral oil before screwing in the tank cover. Hope that helps!
im having a problem with my hydraulic brakes. I have radius breaks that came with my trek bike stock and I was trying to bleed them. They have a lever bleed point but they don’t have a bleed nipple on the caliper. how do I bleed them without that nipple?
From our research, Radius brakes need a threaded adapter at the caliper. It seems like the size that's needed are the M6 adapters found in Tektro bleed kits, and we have a tutorial for Tektro brakes on our channel that may give you a better idea of what that caliper bleed port looks like if you're having trouble finding it. Hope that helps, and feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions!
@@bleedzonekitsI have watched several videos on how to bleed your bike breaks and i’ve looked all around the break caliper and there is no bleed nipple. is it still possible to do a full fluid change without the nipple?
So there won't be a bleed nipple, but there is still a bleed port. That's where you would put the threaded adapter. Here is our Tektro bleed tutorial. th-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/w-d-xo.html It should provide some clarity, but if not, we are happy to help!
The Bleedzone kit that I purchased does not include a bleed block. Why remove the wheel and the brake pads and jam something in the gap? It seems this process should work with the brake rotor and pads in place. What am I missing? Thanks
The purpose of the bleed block is to prevent the pistons in your brake caliper from moving outwards during the bleed process, so if you have something else that’s hard and fits, it should work fine as a substitute. While you could bleed your brakes with the pads in place, it's best to remove them in order to avoid oil contamination. If the oil gets on the rotor, you can easily clean it with alcohol, but oil on the brake pads causes them to squeak, and since oil tends to soak into the pads, it's extremely difficult to wash out. At that point, riders often end up having to replace the pads. Hope that helps, and let us know if you have any other questions!
It seems to me that if you don't retract the pistons, you're also leaving an unnecessary volume of old fluid in the system, which would contaminate the new oil. Standard procedure does seem to be to remove the pads and push the pistons all the way out first. (BTW, the terminology there always confuses me: for the piston, is "out" toward the rotor or away from it?) And you certainly want to avoid getting oil on the pads, as mentioned.
Yes, that's completely right! Pushing the pistons all the way out (away from the rotor) and then inserting the bleed block will ensure the proper amount of fluid in the system after the bleed. Otherwise, overfilling the system by not pushing the pistons all the way back with a block could lead to the brake pads not fully retracting, which would cause them to rub the rotor. Extra fluid can also lead to difficulty when installing new brake pads due to the insufficient space.
If you don’t have a bike stand, your best option would be to prop your bike against a wall. It’s not as convenient to bleed without a stand, but you can definitely still get the job done!
Great video, thanks that was what i was searching for. However I am usually a lazy boy and my bike is old anyway. So my question, could i just put oil from above into the reservoir, pull the triggers some time so the remaining air comes out and than seal them again? also whats the problem when the oil is dirty? couldnt i just use the dirty oil as it supposedly works as good? And one last question. How high has the reservour be filled in the end. all up untill its absolutely filled and touching the brakes while it is open would make it spill oil? or should the reservoir be e.g. half full?
Thank you! We’d recommend doing a full bleed to properly bleed your brakes, but you’re welcome to try what you suggested and see if that helps in any way. The concern with simply adding oil from above and pumping the lever is that while you might successfully remove some air bubbles, fluid gets dirty and does break down over time, which is why you might need to drain the whole system and put in fresh fluid. Dirt or air contaminates the system, both of which reduce brake performance. The reason why you wouldn’t want contaminated oil is because dirt changes the viscosity of the fluid and hurts the fluid’s ability to dissipate heat, possibly even damaging the brake itself. Your reservoir should be topped off at the end of the bleed! If you leave it half full, that would introduce air into the system. Hope that helps, and feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
The Park Tool video says to expect some spillage/overflow when you reinstall the diaphragm and reservoir cap, so that agrees that you do want it fairly full.
Air flows upward, so it's more effective to remove the bubbles from your brake fluid line by bleeding from the brake caliper rather than injecting new oil from the reservoir. Hope that helps, and let us know if you have any other questions!
@@bleedzonekits i havent yet tested both, but do the air bubbles not get drawn out better when an upwards syringe is pulling them out? when you finish with the air in the resevoir it simply stays in there, in the caliper end it gets sucked into the syringe which can be closed off, therefore cutting the air out
@@isaacpugno3388 An upwards syringe pulling fluid through the line would be slightly better than injecting or pushing new oil into the reservoir and down through the brake line. However, when you’re pulling fluid, you build negative pressure in the brake system and risk pulling in air and creating bubbles, especially if some of your connectors aren’t properly sealed. So we recommend pushing fluid through the line from a lower point at the brake caliper.
@@bleedzonekits ok thankyou, definetely makes sense! overall i released after adjusting my brakes abit the bleed was actually really good for this style shimano brakes! the back one especially
@@bleedzonekits It's interesting that the newer Shimano design has you push fluid from below through the caliper (the move to the no-spill funnel also looks nice). However, my bike has these older style reservoirs, so I really appreciate the video!
Best tutorial that I could find in the www, thanks❤
So glad it was helpful!!
Kit worked perfectly. Wasn’t sure this was my problem. It definitely was. Lots of air came out.
Thanks for the feedback!
If The Bleed doesn't work, Your Hydro Might need a Maintenance. The Internals of your Lever might had build Up Inside and Need Proper Lubrication, well might as well as the Caliper.
The caliper is positioned exactly opposite what is should be. Magura official always recommends removing the caliper so it hangs in the correct position for air to move upward and out of the system while bleeding. In your video, the caliper is position to only trap air up top while the exit port where you are bleeding is at the bottom. Error big time. Everything else, very nice.
Thanks for your feedback! We really appreciate it! We have heard of the suggestion to remove the caliper from the frame and to let it dangle vertically in order to create a clean, straightforward path for air bubbles to travel upward. If you have a bike stand, you can angle your bike as well to accomplish that without having to remove your caliper from the frame. In our experience, we haven’t found that to be an essential part of the process for a good bleed. The process of pushing fluid through the line is enough to flush out any bubbles along with the position of the caliper at the lowest part of the system allowing bubbles to rise to the surface. However, that’s definitely a useful tip to consider!!
Magnifique ❤️ , thank you 👍
Of course, hope it helped! :)
@@bleedzonekits
of course, yes . ❤️
I got this kit specifically because it said it was for Zoom brakes and that's the only video you don't have. My system is a total mutt, 4 piston calipers and an older Shimano style reservoir, I think. I'm about to find out. I already had a bleed kit, I just didn't know why I couldn't push fluid through. I didn't need this kit at all. I'd feel bad if it wasn't labeled "specifically designed for Zoom" my kit listed everything except Zoom, had this mentioned all the others I would have known it was all the same parts. Someone on Reddit had already told me to remove the reservoir cover and bladder. Sorry, but back it goes.
We’re sorry for the confusion. We reviewed the bleed kit listing that’s linked in this TH-cam tutorial, and it makes no mention of Zoom brakes.
While we don’t have a Zoom tutorial just yet, bleeding your Zoom brakes should be very similar to [bleeding Tektro brakes](th-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/w-d-xo.html) OR our [Tektro tutorial video](th-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/w-d-xo.html) would mostly closely match the bleed process for Zoom hydraulic brakes. However, with you having an older Shimano style reservoir, I can see why you choose this video. I am a bit confused and would need some clarity to give you a more accurate answer. Did you purchase a kit specifically made for Zoom brakes? Or did you need to purchase one for Zoom brakes specifically (we do have one available)? We are happy to help in any of your bleeding needs!
@@bleedzonekits I had 2 bleed kits already, but I did not know the correct procedure for my Zoom brakes and obviously wasn't having any luck up top without removing the cover. So I ordered a 3rd kit, your Zoom brakes bleed kit. I was more frustrated that the seller of the brakes included no info despite many reviews stating that they couldn't bleed the brakes. I did return your kit, but there wasn't any issue, it's just that I didn't need it, but I didn't know that.
I had more than I needed with the first two kits. I had been working on my car all week and was without transportation trying to bleed the brakes on my bike so I could get parts for the car.
@@BigFarm_ah365 Try a gravity flush/bleed. No kit needed. Maybe an empty bottle to catch the fluid at the bottom. Just have to keep topping it up at the reservoir if you don't have a dedicated port of bleeding at the reservoir.
so i save the money not going to the shop but i gotta buy all the tools...makes sense
It all depends on a person’s preference. We have plenty of affordable kits with only the basics you need or kits with the tools that you buy once and keep to reuse for all your bleeding needs 😊
Thank you. It worked well!!!
That's wonderful to hear! Happy riding :)
Fab !! helped a lot 👍
Awesome, so glad to hear that 👌👌
I'm replacing the lever and the hose, can I drain all the fluid from the caliper end?
Yes, you can drain all the fluid from the caliper end and catch the fluid with a bag or container. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Hello when I have replaced pads and go to put cap back on top does there need to be oil in the tank part 🤔🙋♂️
After bleeding your brakes and replacing your brake pads, you definitely should have oil in the reservoir. However, to make sure that you do, you can always top the reservoir with additional mineral oil before screwing in the tank cover. Hope that helps!
im having a problem with my hydraulic brakes. I have radius breaks that came with my trek bike stock and I was trying to bleed them. They have a lever bleed point but they don’t have a bleed nipple on the caliper. how do I bleed them without that nipple?
From our research, Radius brakes need a threaded adapter at the caliper. It seems like the size that's needed are the M6 adapters found in Tektro bleed kits, and we have a tutorial for Tektro brakes on our channel that may give you a better idea of what that caliper bleed port looks like if you're having trouble finding it. Hope that helps, and feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions!
@@bleedzonekitsI have watched several videos on how to bleed your bike breaks and i’ve looked all around the break caliper and there is no bleed nipple. is it still possible to do a full fluid change without the nipple?
So there won't be a bleed nipple, but there is still a bleed port. That's where you would put the threaded adapter. Here is our Tektro bleed tutorial.
th-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/w-d-xo.html
It should provide some clarity, but if not, we are happy to help!
The Bleedzone kit that I purchased does not include a bleed block. Why remove the wheel and the brake pads and jam something in the gap? It seems this process should work with the brake rotor and pads in place. What am I missing? Thanks
The purpose of the bleed block is to prevent the pistons in your brake caliper from moving outwards during the bleed process, so if you have something else that’s hard and fits, it should work fine as a substitute.
While you could bleed your brakes with the pads in place, it's best to remove them in order to avoid oil contamination. If the oil gets on the rotor, you can easily clean it with alcohol, but oil on the brake pads causes them to squeak, and since oil tends to soak into the pads, it's extremely difficult to wash out. At that point, riders often end up having to replace the pads.
Hope that helps, and let us know if you have any other questions!
It seems to me that if you don't retract the pistons, you're also leaving an unnecessary volume of old fluid in the system, which would contaminate the new oil. Standard procedure does seem to be to remove the pads and push the pistons all the way out first. (BTW, the terminology there always confuses me: for the piston, is "out" toward the rotor or away from it?) And you certainly want to avoid getting oil on the pads, as mentioned.
Yes, that's completely right! Pushing the pistons all the way out (away from the rotor) and then inserting the bleed block will ensure the proper amount of fluid in the system after the bleed. Otherwise, overfilling the system by not pushing the pistons all the way back with a block could lead to the brake pads not fully retracting, which would cause them to rub the rotor. Extra fluid can also lead to difficulty when installing new brake pads due to the insufficient space.
Great video thanks
You bet! Glad to hear that :)
What if we don’t have a bike stand?
If you don’t have a bike stand, your best option would be to prop your bike against a wall. It’s not as convenient to bleed without a stand, but you can definitely still get the job done!
Not available on amazon, edit: outside the US, but it's available on ebay 😀
On our end, the link we provided leads to an existing listing!
@@bleedzonekits ok so it's just temporarily out of stock?
@@BriShep123 It looks like there are currently 11 left in stock: www.amazon.com/dp/B07WHGKM8V.
@@bleedzonekits for me it still says "currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock." 🙂
@@BriShep123 Hmm that's strange, where are you located?
Great video, thanks that was what i was searching for. However I am usually a lazy boy and my bike is old anyway. So my question, could i just put oil from above into the reservoir, pull the triggers some time so the remaining air comes out and than seal them again?
also whats the problem when the oil is dirty? couldnt i just use the dirty oil as it supposedly works as good?
And one last question. How high has the reservour be filled in the end. all up untill its absolutely filled and touching the brakes while it is open would make it spill oil? or should the reservoir be e.g. half full?
Thank you! We’d recommend doing a full bleed to properly bleed your brakes, but you’re welcome to try what you suggested and see if that helps in any way.
The concern with simply adding oil from above and pumping the lever is that while you might successfully remove some air bubbles, fluid gets dirty and does break down over time, which is why you might need to drain the whole system and put in fresh fluid. Dirt or air contaminates the system, both of which reduce brake performance. The reason why you wouldn’t want contaminated oil is because dirt changes the viscosity of the fluid and hurts the fluid’s ability to dissipate heat, possibly even damaging the brake itself.
Your reservoir should be topped off at the end of the bleed! If you leave it half full, that would introduce air into the system. Hope that helps, and feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
The Park Tool video says to expect some spillage/overflow when you reinstall the diaphragm and reservoir cap, so that agrees that you do want it fairly full.
Thanks
Happy to help!!
Why is this method better than injecting the new oil directly into the reservoir and extracting the old one through the bleed nipple?
Air flows upward, so it's more effective to remove the bubbles from your brake fluid line by bleeding from the brake caliper rather than injecting new oil from the reservoir. Hope that helps, and let us know if you have any other questions!
@@bleedzonekits i havent yet tested both, but do the air bubbles not get drawn out better when an upwards syringe is pulling them out? when you finish with the air in the resevoir it simply stays in there, in the caliper end it gets sucked into the syringe which can be closed off, therefore cutting the air out
@@isaacpugno3388 An upwards syringe pulling fluid through the line would be slightly better than injecting or pushing new oil into the reservoir and down through the brake line. However, when you’re pulling fluid, you build negative pressure in the brake system and risk pulling in air and creating bubbles, especially if some of your connectors aren’t properly sealed. So we recommend pushing fluid through the line from a lower point at the brake caliper.
@@bleedzonekits ok thankyou, definetely makes sense! overall i released after adjusting my brakes abit the bleed was actually really good for this style shimano brakes! the back one especially
@@bleedzonekits It's interesting that the newer Shimano design has you push fluid from below through the caliper (the move to the no-spill funnel also looks nice). However, my bike has these older style reservoirs, so I really appreciate the video!
okokokok
Okay :)
Thanks
You're welcome! Happy riding :)