Loved this video. I have watched part 1 and 2 now and have taken notes. I'm very excited to try pattern drafting a pair of trousers. I am mocking up first in muslin. this will be my 4th attempt. Thank you for responding to my other post, it made my day. I am looking forward to checking out your other videos.
Good luck.. Always leave inlays (extra cloth as I have shown) when you are happy you can trim off inlays and leave your normal seams... Check body rise.. (crotch to waistband) check seat has enough tolerance.. Check waist. Check hang of trousers.. And check back of trousers as well..
I teach real bespoke tailoring courses in trouser making at my shop in England. Here's details . jojoremenytailoringacademy.com/paid-tutorials/bespoke-tailoring-waistcoats-and-trousers/
I like your explanation on how to get the back waist line. I'm struggling to understand that part of pattern drafting. I'm a woman, and am trying to make my own personal patterns. I'm hard to fit, but I already know how to sew. So, why not? (Pun intended) I do understand that I have to add more curves and ease for my hips then you do for mens trousers. Much of the process is the same. I'm getting "it" slowly. I have sewn a bunch of commercial patterns over 40 years. I'm ready to try my own.
There are many ways to draft patterns by tailors ,pattern cutters etc..Always remember you need more length on back doe to your seat ( bum area) the length is determined by how big your seat is . Always remember: if you have a flat seat ,you need less.if you have a big seat ,you need more . Always remember: there's no such thing as a perfect pattern it doesn't exist . It's the fittings that will create the perfect pattern for you.
This is great stuff but I am confused with all the adjustments. Still working on a waistcoat but will consult with you if I run into problems down the road. Loving all the information; just maybe a little overload of quantity
Amazing!!! Love your channel! Thank you for all that and hope you're going to do much more, I'm starting sawing my own, and you show me how. Please don't stop. (hope to see shirt as wall and underwear) you are amazing guy clear an informative thanks.
My new 14 video instructional course on dressmaking is being launched in the next few weeks.. It will teach you how to drape on a dummy or real figure how to cut a dress design. The videos include how to sew the dress up from beginning to completion.. It's one of the most comprehensive and in-depth instructional video course ever produced.. I will put up some free trailers and videos soon . You will be able to buy at a very special limited price shortly.. HALF PRICE OR MORE.. I am also offering free phone and video help to everyone who buys my course ... Thanks for your support... Later this year I will launch my new tailoring courses..
On bespoke tailoring the back seat seam is the sewing line ,then you add the 1 and quarter to 1 and half inches inlay on top so if customers gain weight you let out inlays
You have to measure your customers hips and add extra..never have measuring tape tight on hips ,keep a little loose This will then be your correct measurements..
I'm so sorry, as far as I understand Front of pants to back of pants I don't understand. I don't know English well, so it's hard for me to understand. Could you please describe me how to make the back?
@@jojoremeny I fully understand the pockets are on the side seam. I’m saying when I sew the pockets on the “side seam” my pocket bag ends up very close to the zipper. Since there is no seam allowance on the front. Is that the issue?
Seam allowance is included when pattern cutting the trousers .. ..you should not cut your pockets too wide ..it depends on customers measurements.. . Slant pockets on average figure is marked 7 inches down and 2 inches in from edge of side seam.
@@jojoremeny ah that’s maybe why. I’m trying to create jeans so my pocket is 6 inches wide and 11 inches long. I just can’t figure out why the pocket ends so close to the zipper area. Maybe because it’s not a slant pocket?
This was a test video and so I didn't have right equipment which I now have for my bew course which will launched next month .. Part 1 and part 2 were supposed to be taken down,which I forgot to do.. It will be taken down when I launch my new Tailoring courses later this year.. . Here's a sample of my other tutorials... th-cam.com/video/d8fgVb-Bmqo/w-d-xo.html
@@jojoremeny oh not when u made the back fork-line. when u r creating the back hip line at the side seam i'm talking. u marked 21" and then what was added? i get the inlay amount but not sure how much else more was added
@@pharmagrad the Back fork-line is where you add the extra inlay ..this is always added for all trousers.. usually 1 and quarter inch to 1 and half inches... If a customer puts on weight ,you let them out here .... I will later this year be making a real instructional trouser pattern cutting course with how to make and sew the trousers up with clear views on cutting and sewing ... This video I only put up as a test ... I have since bought professional equipment to make professional videos.. Here's a trailer of my 14 video instructional course on dressmaking.. The Tailoring course will be similar when it's launched from my new website soon .. th-cam.com/video/gdJdEFL8DcQ/w-d-xo.html
Nothing is really set for seat angle . You may have to go forward or backwards depending on your seat ratio with waist and also how slim or big your seat really is . The flatter the seat ,the less angle ,the more seat you have,the more angle you need . There are many different systems to get seat angle. It's down to the fitting that will give your true seat angle and rise as well ...
@@jojoremeny, thank you for the explanation on seat angle without asking for it. Trouble is knowing what an incorrect seat angle looks like and knowing how to fix it.
This was a test video tutorial which I should have taken down last year.. I'm making a professional instructional video course soon on :" How to drape, pattern cut and make bespoke tailored trousers and waistcoats" These will be availableto buy from my website laterthis year.. As soon as these videos are available, the videos on utube will be deleted... I have just launched my new 14 video instructional course on draping sewing dresses . Here's the trailer. The bespoke trousers course will follow same format and quality .th-cam.com/video/8kHQxYeW8DQ/w-d-xo.html .
Easy,
Simplified and probably one of the best tutorials I've ever seen.
Thank you for explaining every detail
Thanks for your support and beautiful comment.
I will be putting lots of tips and advice to help sewers all over the globe.
Loved this video. I have watched part 1 and 2 now and have taken notes. I'm very excited to try pattern drafting a pair of trousers. I am mocking up first in muslin. this will be my 4th attempt. Thank you for responding to my other post, it made my day. I am looking forward to checking out your other videos.
Good luck.. Always leave inlays (extra cloth as I have shown) when you are happy you can trim off inlays and leave your normal seams...
Check body rise.. (crotch to waistband) check seat has enough tolerance.. Check waist. Check hang of trousers.. And check back of trousers as well..
I teach real bespoke tailoring courses in trouser making at my shop in England. Here's details .
jojoremenytailoringacademy.com/paid-tutorials/bespoke-tailoring-waistcoats-and-trousers/
I like your explanation on how to get the back waist line. I'm struggling to understand that part of pattern drafting.
I'm a woman, and am trying to make my own personal patterns. I'm hard to fit, but I already know how to sew. So, why not? (Pun intended)
I do understand that I have to add more curves and ease for my hips then you do for mens trousers. Much of the process is the same.
I'm getting "it" slowly. I have sewn a bunch of commercial patterns over 40 years. I'm ready to try my own.
There are many ways to draft patterns by tailors ,pattern cutters etc..Always remember you need more length on back doe to your seat ( bum area) the length is determined by how big your seat is . Always remember: if you have a flat seat ,you need less.if you have a big seat ,you need more .
Always remember: there's no such thing as a perfect pattern it doesn't exist .
It's the fittings that will create the perfect pattern for you.
This is great stuff but I am confused with all the adjustments. Still working on a waistcoat but will consult with you if I run into problems down the road. Loving all the information; just maybe a little overload of quantity
Very good, very nice.
Pls, send part one video link
Amazing!!! Love your channel! Thank you for all that and hope you're going to do much more, I'm starting sawing my own, and you show me how. Please don't stop. (hope to see shirt as wall and underwear) you are amazing guy clear an informative thanks.
My new 14 video instructional course on dressmaking is being launched in the next few weeks..
It will teach you how to drape on a dummy or real figure how to cut a dress design.
The videos include how to sew the dress up from beginning to completion..
It's one of the most comprehensive and in-depth instructional video course ever produced..
I will put up some free trailers and videos soon .
You will be able to buy at a very special limited price shortly.. HALF PRICE OR MORE..
I am also offering free phone and video help to everyone who buys my course ...
Thanks for your support...
Later this year I will launch my new tailoring courses..
Please why is there no seam allowance for the back seam when calculating the seat and waist?
On bespoke tailoring the back seat seam is the sewing line ,then you add the 1 and quarter to 1 and half inches inlay on top so if customers gain weight you let out inlays
I want to ask, sir, is the 42 inch hip size already added slack, or is the 42 inch the right size?
You have to measure your customers hips and add extra..never have measuring tape tight on hips ,keep a little loose
This will then be your correct measurements..
I'm so sorry, as far as I understand Front of pants to back of pants I don't understand. I don't know English well, so it's hard for me to understand. Could you please describe me how to make the back?
Hello ..what language do you speak..I will reply back to with instructions..
I speak Polish. I think, It would be enough if you added subtitles in English to the movie, the dictionary would help me
Is there no seam allowance on the front? Wouldn’t that make the pockets too close to the zipper?
No , the pockets are on side seam not on zip side ..
@@jojoremeny Right, when I sewed mine on the side seam pockets ended close to the zipper. I’m a waist 30.
@@jojoremeny I fully understand the pockets are on the side seam. I’m saying when I sew the pockets on the “side seam” my pocket bag ends up very close to the zipper. Since there is no seam allowance on the front. Is that the issue?
Seam allowance is included when pattern cutting the trousers .. ..you should not cut your pockets too wide ..it depends on customers measurements.. .
Slant pockets on average figure is marked 7 inches down and 2 inches in from edge of side seam.
@@jojoremeny ah that’s maybe why. I’m trying to create jeans so my pocket is 6 inches wide and 11 inches long. I just can’t figure out why the pocket ends so close to the zipper area. Maybe because it’s not a slant pocket?
Camera sould be just above your head so every point can be seen
This was a test video and so I didn't have right equipment which I now have for my bew course which will launched next month ..
Part 1 and part 2 were supposed to be taken down,which I forgot to do..
It will be taken down when I launch my new Tailoring courses later this year.. .
Here's a sample of my other tutorials...
th-cam.com/video/d8fgVb-Bmqo/w-d-xo.html
@9:52 what's the seam allowance? 2cm?
NO 1CM which is standard.2 cm is too much !!!!!
@@jojoremeny oh not when u made the back fork-line. when u r creating the back hip line at the side seam i'm talking. u marked 21" and then what was added? i get the inlay amount but not sure how much else more was added
@@pharmagrad the Back fork-line is where you add the extra inlay ..this is always added for all trousers.. usually 1 and quarter inch to 1 and half inches...
If a customer puts on weight ,you let them out here ....
I will later this year be making a real instructional trouser pattern cutting course with how to make and sew the trousers up with clear views on cutting and sewing ...
This video I only put up as a test ...
I have since bought professional equipment to make professional videos..
Here's a trailer of my 14 video instructional course on dressmaking..
The Tailoring course will be similar when it's launched from my new website soon ..
th-cam.com/video/gdJdEFL8DcQ/w-d-xo.html
4.45 Don’t need math, simply angle the tape to a nice number, in this case 12, then mark at 4. Okay?
Nothing is really set for seat angle .
You may have to go forward or backwards depending on your seat ratio with waist and also how slim or big your seat really is .
The flatter the seat ,the less angle ,the more seat you have,the more angle you need .
There are many different systems to get seat angle. It's down to the fitting that will give your true seat angle and rise as well ...
You can't just willy nilly angle the tape measure and gr5 your line
It all has to be calculated
@@jojoremeny, thank you for the explanation on seat angle without asking for it.
Trouble is knowing what an incorrect seat angle looks like and knowing how to fix it.
@@jojoremeny, why be nasty to me? I was passing along an easy way to calculate fractions.
You blocking your markings with your arm
This was a test video tutorial which I should have taken down last year..
I'm making a professional instructional video course soon on :" How to drape, pattern cut and make bespoke tailored trousers and waistcoats"
These will be availableto buy from my website laterthis year..
As soon as these videos are available, the videos on utube will be deleted...
I have just launched my new 14 video instructional course on draping sewing dresses .
Here's the trailer.
The bespoke trousers course will follow same format and quality .th-cam.com/video/8kHQxYeW8DQ/w-d-xo.html
.