How did I not see this video when looking at your channel. Man you set a super high standard nearly a decade ago. I can say you are still the best composite fabricating tutorial producer on youtube. Seriously Easy Composites Ltd, thank you for sharing so much inspiration to the World. : )
Absolutely love these well made, in depth and detailed yet comprehensive professional tutorials! 💯👏🏼👏🏼 I can safely say that for me personally, These easy composites tutorials have had a great part in encouraging me to try to build my own CF constructions.
Thank you folks. We start filming the split mould tonight, they seem to take us about 2 weeks to film; I normally manage to to the editting alongside but allowing for some time at the end to get it all 'just-so' we still hope to have the next part done within around 3 weeks and then the same for part 3!
YOUR VIDEOS MAKE IT LOOK SO SIMPLE THEY ARE GREAT I GUESS MOST PEOPLE THAT SEE YOUR VIDEO HAVE SOME IDEA OF THE TRUE WORK AND TIME THAT IS PUT INTO THE PATTERN MAKING WHICH IS THE KEY TO WHAT THE END PRODUCT WILL BE THIS IS ALSO WHY PATTERN MAKING IS AN INDENTURED TRADE APPRENTICESHIP I DO ENJOY WATCHING SOMEONE ELSE DO ALL THE WORK AND AGAIN THIS VIDEO IS GREAT THANKYOU
Very comprehensive and instructional, it’s good to see actual expertise and knowledge even right down to expanded polystyrene being identified as such and not called polystyrene by so many lazy and dumbed down practitioners in this field. Easy Composites Ltd gives the strongest indication that can be trusted to deliver excellence.
Yes! Definitely! The Pattern-Coat Primer and HI-Gloss can be sprayed and with practice you can achieve a high standard of finish straight out of the gun leaving less sanding than would be needed if brush applied.
Awesome series. This is a skill that should be thaugh on every school from childhood. Activating the creative and "thinking for yourself" part of the brain witch 99% of people go through their whole live almost never dare to use.
This tutorial is brilliant - for people who do not have skils happy to ofer my services. Can cut shape on CNC machine from foam , wood , MDF, plywood, aluminium and many other. Much larger size can be cut than 3D printed. Shape can be 3D scanned from existing object or created in 3D software . Accept files in plenty diferent formats from meshes as STL or PLY to CAD formats and many others. Also can help with design - by turning your sketches and sugestions- in to the 3D model. Another great possibility is to fit your model on curved surface- we can do it simple by 3D scanning this surface . When have it in computer is easy to extract it from your model and create part with perfect fit. All of this for affordable price so by having your model just order composites and start to do it -only barrier will be your imagination.
I make blue polystyrene foam sanding blocks with a range of common profiles, then stick on Velcro 50mm wide, and then use Velcro-backed abranet sanding sheet cut to size to get the shapes I need. Works very well in getting the shapes I need.
Excellent presentation! The example of the pattern being produced here is quite a bit more complex than the parts that I wish to produce, but that's actually so much for the better. This presentation was so well planned and produced, that it makes the subject matter very easy to see, to understand, and to follow. I quite enjoyed this, as I'm certain I will, the remainder of the series.
Hi Kapullas, Yes, it's certainly something we'd like to make a video on, as well as various other composites processes you can do with 3D printouts. It's an exciting time for designers and composites artisans!
No, as you've realised now that's just the pattern; we start filming today on making a split mould using this airbox pattern and then only after that can we make our first airbox. Quality takes time!
It depends on the facilities available. For some materials, you can get away with a thin skim of filler and 2 pack paints to get the desired finish. For many other items like foams etc, the Pattern-Coat Primer and Gloss Coat can be very beneficial, especially if spray facilities are not available and/or fine details are necessary to be shaped and finished.
Well, it might be similar but it can't be *this* airbox because we just made it from scratch :) - The whole pint of making a pattern is that it's your own design and so of course our design is different from any other airbox. You can use the same process to make any of your own designs from just a design.
+michor10 Yes, there's time and effort goes into hand making a pattern. These days though, the price of CNC routers is coming down and machines like the Stepcraft are within reach if you feel like making an investment. Software like Autodesk's amazing Fusion360 is FREE (for non commercial use) and will output the GCODE to a router like a Stepcraft. You can then machine PU model board for instant patterns.
Easy Composites Ltd Wow, that is great news. I will try out printing out those reference images like you did in the video until I can afford a CNC router. That will really help getting the symmetry right. Thanks for the tip!
+Easy Composites Ltd thanks for the info about cnc. keep make more videos, i still taking class from you. im working on my car, is a 350z and i cut the roof and im going to make it convertible with hard top, basically i has to make my own hard top roof. big challenger
This is probably one of the best and more accurate tutorials about mold making. Is there any tutorial you can address me to learn how to create sections views and print them with solidworks as made in the video? I would really appreciate. I'm confined in my home and it's the best moment to learn those skills. Thanks.
We don't have any solidworks videos, however there is an entire forum for solidworks users and the software itself has a very good set of inbuilt tutorial lessons.
I used a Kingspan equivalent as a pattern making material. It's relatively cheap or free if you can get offcuts no-one wants. All you need do is peel away the aluminium based backing material and cut/glue the pieces to the desired size.
David Waller Hi David; one thing users should keep in mind though is that 'Kingspan' is a polystyrene foam which means it will melt in contact with solvents or styrene (such as polyester resin or bodyfiller). Since the pattern coating resin we use is polyester and so is the bodyfiller, if you do use Kingspan as your pattern material then both the resin and the bodyfiller will melt it away. This is the main reason we use polyurethane foams for pattern making.
Excellent presentation. Related to this what would be the best approach to make a part like a flying saucer (like two dishes on top of each other) covered in fiberglass or carbon, with a foam core? Don't ask about its utility - there's none - but I'm interested in the approach of making a mold for it for either hand lamination, vacuum bagging, resin infusion. Could be a subject for a new video. Thanks in advance!
Thanks very much, we appreciate all the feedback. The next video in the series is underway now so it should not be too long before the next installment!
Hey I'm just wondering if you could maybe do a tourtorial on how to make a carbon fiber mau5head and could you also include how to make the mold for it?
1 important question: whilst designing the 3d model of the pattern do you consider the tolerance from the thickness of the number of coating and primer going on to the mould?
If your were going to machine the pattern and you needed a very high level of dimensional accuracy then yes you would want to take it into account. However for most non-precise projects like this, by the time you've sanded the foam and recoated it with primer, it tends to be pretty close to the original dimensions.
Great, i've been looking for something like this for almost half of the year! can't wait for the next part. I study mechanical engineering in Poland (last year) and have thesis "design of intake system in spark ignition internal combustion engine". Your video will help me a lot to do this, but i have a question. Can you tell me how to make these sections in 3d model and how i can print it? Do I need any other program besides 3d cad modeler? can't start making it without your answer. Thanks a lot for your very helpful channel :)
hectorae86 is right: 3D print the item even if , if the thing you want to make in carbon fibre is big, you have to print multiple objects to make the finished item
I understand the concept of building the skeleton out of the harder foam, but it seems that this greatly increases time required, rather than simply taking your time with the softer foam from one or two pieces. My mentor always used a single piece and machined it down (by machine or hand) to make a prototype for molding. What am I missing in the logic of your process? Thank you in advance.
The frame is to ensure a reasonable level of dimensional accuracy as the foam frame templates were taken from CAD. You would stuggle to get the same level of accuracy just free hand sanding a block of foam with nothing to guide you dimensionally.
this flatness is sick. I wonder how precise is this airbox, are you measuring this on CMM? I guess, it will be very precise, if not it will be very geometric precise. Nice
Well, you can still use the same process for larger parts. If your problem is having an oven large enough to cure the parts then this can be a barrier to using prepreg but you could certainly use a resin infusion process (see our other videos) which doesn't need elevated temperature to cure.
Thanks for the suggestion but making telescopic tubes is really more of a practical matter once you have the tubes (with the correct descending diameters), it’s then about making some sort of locking mechanisms. On the market, these tend to be injection moulded parts so not really something we can demonstrate to a composites audience.
i usually make 1 piece of it, and always work with positive disposable pattern of stirofoam, never sand it more than twice, after cure put in gaselin that melts stirofoam and item is finished
Thanks for your comment. Certainly a sacrificial core process like that can be used although, inevitably, you'll get a very different level of finish. Nonetheless, for basic one off parts that don't need a high standard of finish you could do this.
Wow, always knew there would be a lot of work involved but this was a sort of wake up, lol. Very nicely done video, clear, concise and devoid of stupid music! :)
Pattern Coat Primer, Sanding Primer and Gel Coat all seem to be used for very similar purpose. What are the differences? So far I have chosen to use only Epoxy resins for all my Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber projects.
Pattern coat primer is specifically for patterns, is very high build and easy to sand and polish. Gelcoats are completely different generally being very hard to provide a durable high quality tool finsh.
easycompositestv What? You said three weeks after part one? Christmas time should be the date for part 3 =( "Thank you folks. We start filming the split mould tonight, they seem to take us about 2 weeks to film; I normally manage to to the editting alongside but allowing for some time at the end to get it all 'just-so' we still hope to have the next part done within around 3 weeks and then the same for part 3"
To be honest, this is a remarkable video and finish... Very nice job out there. But the thing is, it is very time consuming process. It can take days to do single mold. Please let us know if there is something quicker than this. Thank you.
The only quicker method is to CNC the pattern into an epoxy tooling block. Although it is still a time consuming process, albeit a lot of it is hands off while the pattern is CNC cut. You can see the video on that here: th-cam.com/video/CWAvo8DIZ9s/w-d-xo.html
RCcrAzY1234 It is a unique design from scratch. For many parts made using composites, there are no off the shelf solutions hence the flexibility of the composites methods, such as pre-preg means you can relatively simply make a one off product without expensive mass production tooling costs.
Would these techniques and materials work to make a hood scoop and bond it to to a metal hood to make a mold of the hood with a hood scoop to be used to make a carbon fiber hood.
Yes you could do that no problem. Bond the piece into place on the hood then take care to finish off the transition between the foam pattern and the metal so the finish is smooth then take a mould off it to make the finished hood from.
If you were making this pattern on a CNC machine with tooling block, how much sanding would you need to do to get a surface finish for mould making?... Or would it come off the machine "ready to go"?
micky jegero It depends on the quality of the tooling block and the CNC machine. Certainly with a good high density block you can achieve a suitable finish straight from machining and with the correct kind of mould sealer and release agent take a mould off the tooling block.
Our Pattern Coat Primer can be applied using a Gelcoat Cup gun with the resin thinned by adding 25% Acetone. The Pattern Coat Hi-Gloss will spray through a normal spray gun when it is also thinned down with 25% Acetone.
+Easy Composites Ltd when using the g-100 gelcoat spray gun do you still have to thin with 25% acetone? I find it very difficult to spray an even coat as too much primer comes out of the gun in a short amount of time.
+Easy Composites Ltd I found out that if you are using the gelcoat spray gun sold by easy composites to apply the primer is better not to use 25% acetone. By thinning the primer with 25% acetone the gelcoat just runs out of the gun and it's used more quickly then if you don't use acetone at all. Just my experience with it. Thanks.
Hi Camden, the bodyfiller is one of the only things in this video that you can't get from us, simply because it's so easy to find elsewhere we decided not to bother carrying it. We're just using a basis 'easy sand' car bodyfiller. U-POL make a good one, you can pick it up from any motor-factors, hardware store or the usual online places.
Sure thing, I 'high spot' is an area of a surface which is higher than the majority of the surrounding area, a low spot is the opposite where a part of the surface is lower than the surrounding areas. The process of 'flatting' is all about getting rid of high or low spots to leave your whole surface 'flat' and smooth.
How are you getting your profile sections for print out? Is this a specific function of your 3DCAD program? Or is it function of all CAD programs and I'm just overlooking it in the ones I use?
iRoc Von JamminStien This somewhat dificult process of printing is a bit overlooked by the folks at Easy Composites as they cannot possibly cover the details of all of the various 3D CAD programs. I had to design the part and EXPORT it to a PDF file for printing in order to get the PRECISE profile on paper. If your profile (the outline of the object to be printed) is greater then the standard printer size of 8.5 x 11 inches, you will have to take the file to a printing house (Kinkos FedEx) for a large format print. You CAN print all of the oversize profile from an 8.5 x 11 in printer but it will come out as multiple documents and you will have to trim, align, and glue the various sheets together to get a working model. Kinkos is faster but make CERTAIN that you deliver the file to them as a PDF otherwise it will not print right. Also, depending on the CAD program you are using, the slot and tab function that is shown in the film will have to be solved. I had to call the CAD vendor (KeyCreator by KubotekUSA) for specific instructions. I made my pattern (a 24" X 10" megaphone shaped clean air intake pipe) cut from pattern outlines on MDF on a band saw and the slots were cut with a 10" table saw with a slot blade. The pieces fit together like a glove and I finished the model shape with the low density foam, body filler, and body glaze.
We include safety issues specific to carbon fibre here:th-cam.com/video/EWzN6GZeEzs/w-d-xo.html Also we have Safety Data Sheets available to download for our products on our Easy Composites website.
we add the filler and then we flat back high spots.after that i see you add the pattern coat primer.whats the use of it?i mean there is a possibility to skip these steps and just move to second video(Pt.2)?
Hello and thanks for the videos, I have a question I'm thinking of making a mold for laminating carbon fiber infused vacuum , my mold will be modeled in a 3D software then with sliceform wood and foam as in the video, the question is whether I can make rolling the same mold , or would have to make a new mold fiberglass out of first. I think the first is enough fuerte.Gracias
Ernesto garcia prieto Hi Ernesto, whilst it is possible to make the mould in the first instant, usually it is far better to make a pattern (the 'male' shape) and then make a fibreglass mould (the 'female' shape) from the pattern. One reason being the ease of getting a good finish - it's much harder to get a good finish on the concave inside of a mould than on the outside of a convex pattern. Another being the strength and durability of the finished mould - foam, wood slices and coating resin are not anywhere near as strong as a solid laminate fibreglass mould. There's other reasons too. I would say if you only want to make one part then you can consider making the mould without making a pattern first; if you're planning on making more than one part then I would say it would always be better to make a pattern first.
+Vladymyr Martsinkovskyi : It was done manually in the CAD program. I'm not aware of an easy to use profiling feature in our CAD software but there may well be some good tricks or even plugins out there.
can you sculpt the polyurethane foam from a solid block, instead of using the segments to make the skeleton etc. Obviously doing it from the segments you can duplicate the exact shape of the cad drawing, but you could still get a good result just carving from the solid block?
Yes you certainly can use a solid block. The precision of shape may not be as good as you mention but for certain applications that may not be a limiting factor.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
How did I not see this video when looking at your channel.
Man you set a super high standard nearly a decade ago.
I can say you are still the best composite fabricating tutorial producer on youtube.
Seriously Easy Composites Ltd, thank you for sharing so much inspiration to the World.
: )
Absolutely love these well made, in depth and detailed yet comprehensive professional tutorials! 💯👏🏼👏🏼 I can safely say that for me personally, These easy composites tutorials have had a great part in encouraging me to try to build my own CF constructions.
i do carbonfiber fabrication and laminating and i find these tutorials fascinating!
I have been creating patterns by hand for a few years and can say that this is a very accurate concise tutorial. Thank you!
Thank you folks. We start filming the split mould tonight, they seem to take us about 2 weeks to film; I normally manage to to the editting alongside but allowing for some time at the end to get it all 'just-so' we still hope to have the next part done within around 3 weeks and then the same for part 3!
YOUR VIDEOS MAKE IT LOOK SO SIMPLE THEY ARE GREAT I GUESS MOST PEOPLE THAT SEE YOUR VIDEO HAVE SOME IDEA OF THE TRUE WORK AND TIME THAT IS PUT INTO THE PATTERN MAKING WHICH IS THE KEY TO WHAT THE END PRODUCT WILL BE
THIS IS ALSO WHY PATTERN MAKING IS AN INDENTURED TRADE APPRENTICESHIP I DO ENJOY WATCHING SOMEONE ELSE DO ALL THE WORK AND AGAIN THIS VIDEO IS GREAT THANKYOU
This is just a great series of tutorials. Really concise and to the point. Thanks guys!
Thanks Guy, glad you've enjoyed them.
Very comprehensive and instructional, it’s good to see actual expertise and knowledge even right down to expanded polystyrene being identified as such and not called polystyrene by so many lazy and dumbed down practitioners in this field. Easy Composites Ltd gives the strongest indication that can be trusted to deliver excellence.
Sweden-here
One of the very few who's shows it from ste start.
Thank you very much!
Yes! Definitely! The Pattern-Coat Primer and HI-Gloss can be sprayed and with practice you can achieve a high standard of finish straight out of the gun leaving less sanding than would be needed if brush applied.
Awesome series. This is a skill that should be thaugh on every school from childhood. Activating the creative and "thinking for yourself" part of the brain witch 99% of people go through their whole live almost never dare to use.
Well said!
This is an extremely informative video. Thank you for being so thorough in each step.
For someone new to composite moulding techniques, excellent video.
This tutorial is brilliant - for people who do not have skils happy to ofer my services. Can cut shape on CNC machine from foam , wood , MDF, plywood, aluminium and many other. Much larger size can be cut than 3D printed. Shape can be 3D scanned from existing object or created in 3D software . Accept files in plenty diferent formats from meshes as STL or PLY to CAD formats and many others. Also can help with design - by turning your sketches and sugestions- in to the 3D model. Another great possibility is to fit your model on curved surface- we can do it simple by 3D scanning this surface . When have it in computer is easy to extract it from your model and create part with perfect fit. All of this for affordable price so by having your model just order composites and start to do it -only barrier will be your imagination.
I make blue polystyrene foam sanding blocks with a range of common profiles, then stick on Velcro 50mm wide, and then use Velcro-backed abranet sanding sheet cut to size to get the shapes I need. Works very well in getting the shapes I need.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.. they really inspire me, and others, to take on carbon projects.
Excellent presentation!
The example of the pattern being produced here is quite a bit more complex than the parts that I wish to produce, but that's actually so much for the better.
This presentation was so well planned and produced, that it makes the subject matter very easy to see, to understand, and to follow.
I quite enjoyed this, as I'm certain I will, the remainder of the series.
what is special about your videos is that you cover mistakes the beginner will invariably make, and how to fix them
Thanks Ryan, we try to, yes. :)
Hi Kapullas, Yes, it's certainly something we'd like to make a video on, as well as various other composites processes you can do with 3D printouts. It's an exciting time for designers and composites artisans!
Hi .… very nice job … I do believe that such techniques were the joy of those before CNC days ….well done
No, as you've realised now that's just the pattern; we start filming today on making a split mould using this airbox pattern and then only after that can we make our first airbox. Quality takes time!
You are the man, fantastic tutorial with superb result, very inspiring, thanks!
You guys are the best! Hope one day you can expand to the states!
A terrific method there. Thanks for showing what is possible.
No problem Mark, glad you enjoyed it.
It depends on the facilities available. For some materials, you can get away with a thin skim of filler and 2 pack paints to get the desired finish. For many other items like foams etc, the Pattern-Coat Primer and Gloss Coat can be very beneficial, especially if spray facilities are not available and/or fine details are necessary to be shaped and finished.
This really has opened me a new door. Thanks a lot
That's hell lots of work. Thank you for the detailed video
Well, it might be similar but it can't be *this* airbox because we just made it from scratch :) - The whole pint of making a pattern is that it's your own design and so of course our design is different from any other airbox. You can use the same process to make any of your own designs from just a design.
This tutorial series was very clear and concise. Thanks alot!!!!
Great vid! I've been binge watching since last night, lol. I hope you make more of this
Wow, this is the vid I have been looking for a long time! Great job and easy to follow. Can´t wait for the second part!
you guys are the best in the market! and not afraid to explain how to ! just wanted to know why you didnt use fiber glass before the body filler?
This guys an artist.
This is incredible. I'll definitely try this in the future. 3D printing might also be a good way to make a frame.
This is an excellent tutorial. I wish a had a high tech machine to CNC my own complex patterns. It's really hard to do those by hand.
+michor10 Yes, there's time and effort goes into hand making a pattern. These days though, the price of CNC routers is coming down and machines like the Stepcraft are within reach if you feel like making an investment. Software like Autodesk's amazing Fusion360 is FREE (for non commercial use) and will output the GCODE to a router like a Stepcraft. You can then machine PU model board for instant patterns.
Easy Composites Ltd Wow, that is great news. I will try out printing out those reference images like you did in the video until I can afford a CNC router. That will really help getting the symmetry right. Thanks for the tip!
+Easy Composites Ltd thanks for the info about cnc. keep make more videos, i still taking class from you. im working on my car, is a 350z and i cut the roof and im going to make it convertible with hard top, basically i has to make my own hard top roof. big challenger
MickHornbak d
MickHornbak sircan i request tutorial doin editi ng in 3d cad?
This is probably one of the best and more accurate tutorials about mold making. Is there any tutorial you can address me to learn how to create sections views and print them with solidworks as made in the video? I would really appreciate. I'm confined in my home and it's the best moment to learn those skills. Thanks.
We don't have any solidworks videos, however there is an entire forum for solidworks users and the software itself has a very good set of inbuilt tutorial lessons.
Excellant presentation. Lots of good practical tips and tricks.
How could anybody thumbs down this video
Excellent video. You guys are talented. I can not wait for the next in this series.
Totally respected!
Thank you for sharing this with us!
Your video are very clear and informative.
Can't wait for the next part in the series. Great job as always!
i thought what you showed was the finished product. good stuff man.
Easy Composites Ltd thank god for you guys
Very nice. Cant wait for that to be relevant to me.
these videos are amazing thanks alot
Great Series-Thank you for such thorough instruction!!
I used a Kingspan equivalent as a pattern making material. It's relatively cheap or free if you can get offcuts no-one wants. All you need do is peel away the aluminium based backing material and cut/glue the pieces to the desired size.
David Waller Hi David; one thing users should keep in mind though is that 'Kingspan' is a polystyrene foam which means it will melt in contact with solvents or styrene (such as polyester resin or bodyfiller). Since the pattern coating resin we use is polyester and so is the bodyfiller, if you do use Kingspan as your pattern material then both the resin and the bodyfiller will melt it away. This is the main reason we use polyurethane foams for pattern making.
Excellent presentation. Related to this what would be the best approach to make a part like a flying saucer (like two dishes on top of each other) covered in fiberglass or carbon, with a foam core? Don't ask about its utility - there's none - but I'm interested in the approach of making a mold for it for either hand lamination, vacuum bagging, resin infusion. Could be a subject for a new video. Thanks in advance!
A good idea to build a model glider fuselage. Great! Thank you sir
You're welcome Aziz; hope the project goes well.
@@easycompositestv 👍
Excellent work, I am now waiting for the second part
Can those bare foam be used as a male mold?
Excellent video by the way.
Come on part two already???
Thanks very much, we appreciate all the feedback. The next video in the series is underway now so it should not be too long before the next installment!
Those brush grooves are killing me.
Hey I'm just wondering if you could maybe do a tourtorial on how to make a carbon fiber mau5head and could you also include how to make the mold for it?
Impressive tutorial work guys!
1 important question: whilst designing the 3d model of the pattern do you consider the tolerance from the thickness of the number of coating and primer going on to the mould?
If your were going to machine the pattern and you needed a very high level of dimensional accuracy then yes you would want to take it into account. However for most non-precise projects like this, by the time you've sanded the foam and recoated it with primer, it tends to be pretty close to the original dimensions.
Awesome video thanks !! Is it possible to make fiberglass parts directly from the pattern instead of having to do a mold out of the pattern first ?
You can do a method of mouldless construction as in this video: th-cam.com/video/0Yaggj16S08/w-d-xo.html
I frequently design and 3d print parts. I was thinking of printing my parts, and then vacuforming them. Can molds be made from vacuformed parts?
It's mentioned previously, but I would love to see a video on using 3D printing for the pattern.
It is something we may look at in the future as the technology grows and demand for its use increases.
Hey guys when are you going to post part 2? How to make a mold from the parts you created?
Great, i've been looking for something like this for almost half of the year! can't wait for the next part. I study mechanical engineering in Poland (last year) and have thesis "design of intake system in spark ignition internal combustion engine". Your video will help me a lot to do this, but i have a question. Can you tell me how to make these sections in 3d model and how i can print it? Do I need any other program besides 3d cad modeler? can't start making it without your answer. Thanks a lot for your very helpful channel :)
We just took section views and printed them out. Most decent CAD software will allow you to do that.
easycompositestv Thanks for answer. I'm newbie in engineering, only one project done in cad.
OUTSTANDING video
hectorae86 is right: 3D print the item even if , if the thing you want to make in carbon fibre is big, you have to print multiple objects to make the finished item
AWESOME tutorials !!!
Thank you for this idea i can now do it in more automotove materials fpr we dont have that here in the philippines.
I understand the concept of building the skeleton out of the harder foam, but it seems that this greatly increases time required, rather than simply taking your time with the softer foam from one or two pieces. My mentor always used a single piece and machined it down (by machine or hand) to make a prototype for molding. What am I missing in the logic of your process? Thank you in advance.
The frame is to ensure a reasonable level of dimensional accuracy as the foam frame templates were taken from CAD. You would stuggle to get the same level of accuracy just free hand sanding a block of foam with nothing to guide you dimensionally.
Easy Composites Ltd thank you for responding. It has been some time since I worked with composites so i appreciate your videos and insight.
17:19 the whisper that guides you :)
this flatness is sick. I wonder how precise is this airbox, are you measuring this on CMM? I guess, it will be very precise, if not it will be very geometric precise. Nice
Thanks :) It's certainly more than adequately accurate for this type of application.
Amazing video, now only if my parts weren't a couple feet big
Well, you can still use the same process for larger parts. If your problem is having an oven large enough to cure the parts then this can be a barrier to using prepreg but you could certainly use a resin infusion process (see our other videos) which doesn't need elevated temperature to cure.
Hi
can you make a video on making of telescopic carbon fiber pole
Thanks for the suggestion but making telescopic tubes is really more of a practical matter once you have the tubes (with the correct descending diameters), it’s then about making some sort of locking mechanisms. On the market, these tend to be injection moulded parts so not really something we can demonstrate to a composites audience.
i usually make 1 piece of it, and always work with positive disposable pattern of stirofoam, never sand it more than twice, after cure put in gaselin that melts stirofoam and item is finished
Thanks for your comment. Certainly a sacrificial core process like that can be used although, inevitably, you'll get a very different level of finish. Nonetheless, for basic one off parts that don't need a high standard of finish you could do this.
Nice.
Are you planning to do some videos of patterns using 3D printers ?
Hey excellent tutorials, do you ship to Mexico? Or have a authorised distribution center in America?
We can ship non-hazardous materials to Mexico by normal couriers.
Wow, always knew there would be a lot of work involved but this was a sort of wake up, lol. Very nicely done video, clear, concise and devoid of stupid music! :)
You're very welcome. Yes, we dropped background music many years ago and stuck with as much information as we can cram in :)
Part 2 is currently in production and as soon as the video has been completed will be released.
I thought you guys said this was easy? ;)
Plz, we´ve been waiting for some time. this tutorrials are awesome! Are you going to use a bladder in the mold?
Please, when you will release the Part 2 ?
cant wait these videos are fantastic
Cant wait to see the final part
Amazing work!
u guys are awesome thank you.
Pattern Coat Primer, Sanding Primer and Gel Coat all seem to be used for very similar purpose. What are the differences? So far I have chosen to use only Epoxy resins for all my Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber projects.
Pattern coat primer is specifically for patterns, is very high build and easy to sand and polish. Gelcoats are completely different generally being very hard to provide a durable high quality tool finsh.
Awesome as always.
When is the 2nd part coming? Cant wait!!!
We estimate roughly Christmas time for part 2 to be released.
easycompositestv
What? You said three weeks after part one? Christmas time should be the date for part 3 =( "Thank you folks. We start filming the split mould tonight, they seem to take us about 2 weeks to film; I normally manage to to the editting alongside but allowing for some time at the end to get it all 'just-so' we still hope to have the next part done within around 3 weeks and then the same for part 3"
To be honest, this is a remarkable video and finish... Very nice job out there. But the thing is, it is very time consuming process. It can take days to do single mold. Please let us know if there is something quicker than this. Thank you.
The only quicker method is to CNC the pattern into an epoxy tooling block. Although it is still a time consuming process, albeit a lot of it is hands off while the pattern is CNC cut. You can see the video on that here: th-cam.com/video/CWAvo8DIZ9s/w-d-xo.html
This is a lot of detailed work for a mold, is this a very special part then or am i missing something?
RCcrAzY1234 It is a unique design from scratch. For many parts made using composites, there are no off the shelf solutions hence the flexibility of the composites methods, such as pre-preg means you can relatively simply make a one off product without expensive mass production tooling costs.
now probably you use 3d-printing instead shaping pattern with foam, right?)
You can use CNC to shape the foam if you wish.
I understand that this is in the case where pattern/mold making is made by hand, but what would you use in the case of a cnc machine?
Would these techniques and materials work to make a hood scoop and bond it to to a metal hood to make a mold of the hood with a hood scoop to be used to make a carbon fiber hood.
Yes you could do that no problem. Bond the piece into place on the hood then take care to finish off the transition between the foam pattern and the metal so the finish is smooth then take a mould off it to make the finished hood from.
Can we somewhere find a list with the exact materials used for the coating & polishing?
Hi Asteris, yes, sure, just follow the link in the description to the product page on our website.
WoooOOW!!! Crazy!! Tks
Superb!!!
If you were making this pattern on a CNC machine with tooling block, how much sanding would you need to do to get a surface finish for mould making?... Or would it come off the machine "ready to go"?
micky jegero It depends on the quality of the tooling block and the CNC machine. Certainly with a good high density block you can achieve a suitable finish straight from machining and with the correct kind of mould sealer and release agent take a mould off the tooling block.
Great tutorial, quick question, the pattern coat can it be thinned and used with a spray gun?
Our Pattern Coat Primer can be applied using a Gelcoat Cup gun with the resin thinned by adding 25% Acetone. The Pattern Coat Hi-Gloss will spray through a normal spray gun when it is also thinned down with 25% Acetone.
+Easy Composites Ltd when using the g-100 gelcoat spray gun do you still have to thin with 25% acetone? I find it very difficult to spray an even coat as too much primer comes out of the gun in a short amount of time.
+Easy Composites Ltd I found out that if you are using the gelcoat spray gun sold by easy composites to apply the primer is better not to use 25% acetone. By thinning the primer with 25% acetone the gelcoat just runs out of the gun and it's used more quickly then if you don't use acetone at all. Just my experience with it. Thanks.
Where can I get the filler used? And what did you mix with it? Where can I find that as well. Trying to buy everything from you guys
Hi Camden, the bodyfiller is one of the only things in this video that you can't get from us, simply because it's so easy to find elsewhere we decided not to bother carrying it. We're just using a basis 'easy sand' car bodyfiller. U-POL make a good one, you can pick it up from any motor-factors, hardware store or the usual online places.
Hi great video can anyone explain what is low spot and high spot. Thanks a lot!
Sure thing, I 'high spot' is an area of a surface which is higher than the majority of the surrounding area, a low spot is the opposite where a part of the surface is lower than the surrounding areas. The process of 'flatting' is all about getting rid of high or low spots to leave your whole surface 'flat' and smooth.
How are you getting your profile sections for print out? Is this a specific function of your 3DCAD program? Or is it function of all CAD programs and I'm just overlooking it in the ones I use?
iRoc Von JamminStien This somewhat dificult process of printing is a bit overlooked by the folks at Easy Composites as they cannot possibly cover the details of all of the various 3D CAD programs. I had to design the part and EXPORT it to a PDF file for printing in order to get the PRECISE profile on paper. If your profile (the outline of the object to be printed) is greater then the standard printer size of 8.5 x 11 inches, you will have to take the file to a printing house (Kinkos FedEx) for a large format print. You CAN print all of the oversize profile from an 8.5 x 11 in printer but it will come out as multiple documents and you will have to trim, align, and glue the various sheets together to get a working model. Kinkos is faster but make CERTAIN that you deliver the file to them as a PDF otherwise it will not print right.
Also, depending on the CAD program you are using, the slot and tab function that is shown in the film will have to be solved. I had to call the CAD vendor (KeyCreator by KubotekUSA) for specific instructions. I made my pattern (a 24" X 10" megaphone shaped clean air intake pipe) cut from pattern outlines on MDF on a band saw and the slots were cut with a 10" table saw with a slot blade. The pieces fit together like a glove and I finished the model shape with the low density foam, body filler, and body glaze.
could you make a video regarding safety issues?
We include safety issues specific to carbon fibre here:th-cam.com/video/EWzN6GZeEzs/w-d-xo.html
Also we have Safety Data Sheets available to download for our products on our Easy Composites website.
we add the filler and then we flat back high spots.after that i see you add the pattern coat primer.whats the use of it?i mean there is a possibility to skip these steps and just move to second video(Pt.2)?
Hello and thanks for the videos, I have a question I'm thinking of making a mold for laminating carbon fiber infused vacuum , my mold will be modeled in a 3D software then with sliceform wood and foam as in the video, the question is whether I can make rolling the same mold , or would have to make a new mold fiberglass out of first. I think the first is enough fuerte.Gracias
Ernesto garcia prieto Hi Ernesto, whilst it is possible to make the mould in the first instant, usually it is far better to make a pattern (the 'male' shape) and then make a fibreglass mould (the 'female' shape) from the pattern. One reason being the ease of getting a good finish - it's much harder to get a good finish on the concave inside of a mould than on the outside of a convex pattern. Another being the strength and durability of the finished mould - foam, wood slices and coating resin are not anywhere near as strong as a solid laminate fibreglass mould. There's other reasons too. I would say if you only want to make one part then you can consider making the mould without making a pattern first; if you're planning on making more than one part then I would say it would always be better to make a pattern first.
Could you elaborate more on how you created the section views in the cad software? Is it a software feature, or did you create them yourself?
+Vladymyr Martsinkovskyi : It was done manually in the CAD program. I'm not aware of an easy to use profiling feature in our CAD software but there may well be some good tricks or even plugins out there.
good video
can you sculpt the polyurethane foam from a solid block, instead of using the segments to make the skeleton etc. Obviously doing it from the segments you can duplicate the exact shape of the cad drawing, but you could still get a good result just carving from the solid block?
Yes you certainly can use a solid block. The precision of shape may not be as good as you mention but for certain applications that may not be a limiting factor.