I have only been into plants for the last year or so, and all my information comes from online. It’s gradually become clear that most people with plant websites or TH-cam channels ignore the fact that people seeking help are dealing with widely varying plant environments. They will sometimes prescribe care regimens that I now know would quickly kill my plants. I try to focus on sites run by people who grow plants in an environment similar to mine, but often they don’t offer that basic info. You do, of course, in the very title of your channel which is how I discovered you and became a fan and subscriber. But I am impressed that you actually discuss what the variables in microclimates might be and how that should affect the decisions we make regarding plant care. This is helpful for any newbie thinking about the needs of any plant. You do more good than you know. I hope you are feeling well and will enjoy your plants-and us!-for many years to come.
Thanks for your kind comments, Virginia, they're very much appreciated. Yeah, it's really hard, if not impossible, to cover every set of conditions with a care video. I just try to give a few pointers about how you'd need to think differently if conditions different to mine. Of course, the very best thing we could all do to ensure more plant success, would be to grow local weeds!🤣 And yes I'm feeling much better now, enjoying the Xmas holidays and enthusiastic to get back at it again in the New year!
I thought mine was dead, it had very long bare stems with just a few living leaves at the tips. So I cut everything off and put the living cuttings in a new pot. To my surprise a week later the original plant (which at this point was no more than a few cm of dry dead stems) starts to produce tiny new leaves all over the place 😊 It's still alive!
I have this variety of Tradescantia, it does grow fast and the leaves get bigger as it gets more mature. I do get the odd brown spot but remedy it by trimming the growth and taking cuttings to make new plants. I keep it near the window and don't water until it dries out.
I live in North America with a south facing window and I keep the mini blind halfway open. This plant I keep in a plastic liner pot that sits inside a catch pot and I give it distilled water just so chemicals were not a factor for it and ALWAYS EVERYTIME bottom water it and never get its leaves wet at all. This plant is a DIVA but I love how it looks with the light pouring on it situated in a cobalt blue planter and it absolutely glows. Now it is just one of those plants you gotta tuck new babies in the top all the time to keep it well rounded looking. My soil mic on this is orchid bark, medium on the perlite, worm castings, soil. I check it if it needs water once a week whether its winter or summer given the furnace is on. This plant is work but if you love it enough the end result is worth it. :)
Thanks for the tips! It's interesting about water on the leaves. I tested this by spraying a coupe of plants daily for a month and keeping a couple of plants dry. The difference? None whatsoever! But...it was summertime so temps were relatively high and airflow was good. Yet some people swear that water on the leaves causes brown spots. I think it can do, but only in low temperatures and poorly ventilated spaces. Leaves will die eventually no matter you do. It's definitely a challenging hybrid, but as you say, with continued renewal it can be worth it.
Thank you for talking about how important climate is. I’m very new to the hobby and live in Arizona. Plants im being told need watered once a month are perking up when I water them after five days. Plant life 😂
I’m new to growing Nanouk this year. I’m fascinated how differently it grows compared to the classic ‘zebrina’ variety. Much slower growing and a bit more fragile. Loves high light but can also burn easily. I appreciate all your advice! As always great video! 🙏
As for my place, the climate is hot in summer, where the temperature inside the house is from 30 to 38, and the relative humidity ranges from 15 to 20, due to the operation of the air conditioners. As for the Nanuk plant, I do not suffer from burning leaves except in the case of high temperature and dryness , but this problem exists in the trycolor plants, and after several experiments, I noticed that the problem comes from the contact of the leaves with the wet soil surface, or the presence of some soil on the stem, so I tried watering the plant using the bottom watering method, and this succeeded
Oooo here it is! Yay! Thank you! I want to try letting a propagation creep. That would be perfect. I keep mine looking nice by constantly pruning it, repotting single node cuttings until it's completely full.. then when it gets wonky, it's time to propagate a new one. They do well like that, and bottom watering. But I want to experiment with the creeper habit!
Yeah exactly - that's how most enthusiasts get around the inevitable 'running out of steam' issue. I'm going to give mine the grow bag treatment - can't wait to see how it does compared to the zebrina I did - which is still going strong after 2 years. Good luck with your experiment!
I've had my Nanouk in Southern Ontario Canada for about 3 years. It does very well outside during the summer in general potting soil from the garden center. Each autumn when I bring it inside I get the baring stems and browning leaves, and resort to cutting the tips to root in water while discarding the original plant. The water rooted stems and leaves never seem to brown or rot. I have decided the best way to over winter them is hanging in a glass jar of water in the window (east) until I can replant in a pot outside in the spring. Seems to work so far.
Yeah that's pretty much most people's experiences of nanouk. The longer the stems get, the more likely you'll get bare sections. They simply run out of steam from a single rooting point. Glad to hear you've found a workaround.
I generally underwater my house plants, and so I do well with succulents and the nanouk (and extremely poorly with calathea and alocasia). I live in northern Alberta, Canada, where the daylight is long during the summer, and the sun is low and can penetrate deeply into the interior of the house during the winter. It is cool and dry (mountain winds) all year round. The nanouk is very happy living on my balcony during the summer and next to my west facing windows in winter. As you predict, it loves bright light, good air flow, moderate fertilizer, and can tolerate less than ideal humidity. When it's happy, it will flower a lot. This year I'll try to grow it in a rectangle hanging planter over the balcony rail. I'm sure it will be spectacular.
Good to hear you've cracked it! My Nanouks are the only Trads I've yet to see bloom, unfortunately. I might try one outside this summer to see what effect the extra light intensity has on it. Thanks for all your care tips - they really help!
Glad it was helpful! But ultimately, these plants are just a bad hybrid, and no matter what you do you’re likely to get issues sooner or later. 🤷♂️ The only fool proof method is to keep propagating it and enjoy it as a young plant. IMHO of course! Good luck!
I'm in Arizona and it's too extreme outside to grow. I have them in a pot, inside with indirect light but I think the key is bottom watering. If I water on top the moisture rots the stem immediately. Great channel!
Tradescantia and all related plants in the group ie Callisia, Spiderwort, Geogenanthus hate water splashed on their leaves. I have misted mine with Orchid fertilizer and they did fine but large amounts are a big no no IMHO & several other growers I have spoken with. I fertilize my Tradescantia with orchid fertilizer or houseplant fertilizer about every 2 weeks year round. My plants are indoors and I use multiple types of grow lights in each room I have plants. So I would say they do like to be fertilized and I see a large amount of growth and blooms when doing so. Now it goes without saying don't burn them with too much. Household is 1-1-1. Orchid numbers are a bit higher. I used MCU orchid and general Miracle grow houseplant & fruit & veggie plant. I water around the leaves & have drainage holes in the bottom and make sure all excess water drains out. Some I grow in soil with perlite. Cuttings I grow in sphagnum. My apt stays about 66°F- 74°F year round as I live in Northern California & it is too cold in winter low 30's°F( freezing) and too warm 116°F in Summer. I water when they get a bit dry. I don't leave the soil constantly wet as it will kill them and don't leave it dry as that invites root rot. Do think Tradescantia like a minimum humidity of 50-80 %. This can actually be achieved with micro climates & simply grouping plants. I do think that everyone should do what works best for them but I think not enough humidity & too much water are the killers of these plants. I do pinch my plants and have learned this by trial and error. They look fuller & are much prettier with pinching. They seem to grow faster as well. 💚🪴🌱🌵🌿☘️🍃🪷
Thanks for sharing Debbie. It's odd about the water on leaves thing. I tested it by spraying a couple of plants over a month and leaving another couple dry. The difference after a month of daily misting? Nothing whatsoever! Not a single mark. I suspect it CAN affect leaves but only in certain conditions - perhaps in lower temperatures and higher humidity, and poorly ventilated areas. As with all things plant-related, it 100% depends on the environment it finds itself in. I'm glad you seem to have found what works for you. The only factor that DOES seem to be consistent across differing environments is the fact that sooner or later, unless you continually renew the stems by pinching and replanting, they develop dead leaves and kind of 'run out of steam' - a characteristic I expect is due to them growing from a single rooting point rather than being allowed to root as they scramble.
It's easy enough to getvitvto branch. Just pluck off the top new leaf. It needs to be done as soon as ypu can see it and can pluck it off . Continuing to pluck off any new top growth.
5:19 About the brown marks in the leaves, is true, I have a zebrina in a pot in my bedroom, I was wondering if it was lack of water but then I got sick so I rested in my bed like a week, and I didn't water it even if the soil was kinda dry, since I live in a very cold city and since I had to be on my bedroom all day, I turned up the temperature in my room, and once I got better I watched my plant and it didn't have any new brown mark
Thank you! This was super helpful. I was going to buy this plant through easyplant but now I feel there is alot of false advertising about this particular plant. It seems it's not a super easy plant to maintain, its not actually a trailing plant which is what I wanted and it requires alot of care. Can you do a video on Philodendron Brazil, Pothos, and the ZZ plant. Maybe those plants are actually easier to maintain and are really trailing plants.
Glad it was helpful, Sarah. To be honest providing you're willing to continually propagate it - which involves chopping some off and planting straight into media - then you'll always have at least one plant looking decent. The mistake comes in thinking you can keep the same plant looking great for years and years. And thanks for the suggestions.
Geoff, my greenhouse was recently finished, but I find myself clueless when it comes to basic operational concerns. I’ve had bubble wrap put in for the winter, which is a step in the right direction, but I don’t know what the best kind shelving is (nor how affordable) or how to water. I’ve been dragging the hose over and letting ‘er rip, but we both know that’s no solution to keeping plants healthy year after year. Are all of yours in trays that you can water from the bottom? I’m rather overwhelmed by the whole business! Linda from Texas. 😢
Hi Linda, glad to hear you've made it so far with your greenhouse - a new one is always an exciting time. I've got plenty of videos on the channel on the 'operational side' as you describe it - I'm sure you'll find other videos useful to you. In terms of watering, it's more about the plants you're keeping in there than it is about the greenhouse. You need to get to know what kind of conditions they like, whether they're in full growth and how much they like on an individual basis, and there's no quick answer to that other than spending time with them and responding to what they do. If you're keeping tropical plants in there (like me) then watering will be on a different level to keeping temperate plants which will likely go dormant anyway through the winter months and not need watering. Just take your time and learn about your plants when you can - always making sure to observe them very closely and respond to their changes. There is no 'best' kind of shelving - cheaper tends to be flimsy aluminium that bends easily - but if looked after can last years. More expensive tends to be more robust. I keep my plants in trays so the water and other plant detritus doesn't fall through to the bench and floor. But you'll notice some plants are in smaller trays - some raised up on gravel to allow more drainage - some actually standing in water, so mounted on wood and some hanging in baskets. It totally depends on what the plant is and what it likes, the season, the weather conditions (which affects the interior of a greenhouse more than you'd expect) and the growth stage of the plant. It can seem overwhelming - but needn't be. That's the fun of indoor gardening. Take your time and enjoy it. You'll get plenty of plant losses which is fine - just learn from them and move on. Good luck!
This plant looks very pretty but its a terrible weed in Australia. Youll never have a good healthy looking plant if you try to grow it in a pot, unless you use a bath tub. This is because as it grows almost each new leave is a spot on the stem where it will take hold in the soil. If in a pot, it will grow a few leaves along the stem but it will always end up looking stretched and scrappy. Here in Australia it's common name is wandering gew. A horrible plant that started in someone's garden and just a sml broken off stem will root down wherever it can. In the bush or peoples back yards its reverted back to a more green plant but still throws out the purple color. Its also very toxic for dogs and other soft pawed animals as it makes them really itchy. Wherever they have contact with it, they get a rash. If you live in a warmer climate and this plant isn't native to where you live. DONT PLANT IT OUT IN THE GROUND, its very invasive and grows thick. ✌
It isn’t this hybrid that’s a weed, it’s Tradescantia zebrina you’re talking about. This is such a fussy plant it’s unlikely to cause many problems outside. I agree with you regarding it being a scrambler as I’ve pointed out in the video. It needs to be able to root along the length of each stem rather than from a single point. This is why many people continually renew it from cuttings.
@@Grow_Up_Man55 Yes, I feel lucky indeed. I do nothing special and it has no brown spots, nothing. I feel sorry for a lot of people who have difficulties with it.
@@lucasvermeulen4454 You may find that over the course of its next year you start to encounter problems with it. I'm yet to see a 2 year old plant without dead leaves and bare stems. It isn't the conditions - it's just the natural growing habit as it's not able to root from multiple points in a pot. You may well have found the 'perfect' conditions - and well done if you have - but I'd take some cuttings just as insurance.
@@Grow_Up_Man55 It's used in tropical fish keeping to take harmful substances out of tap water. It's also really good for chalatheas You get no brown edges on leaves if you use it . One spot in litre of water . It's about £14 for bottle on Amazon lasts years
Die Häufigkeit des Gießens hängt von mehreren Faktoren ab - eine allgemeingültige Antwort ist daher nicht möglich. Sie gießen sie, „wenn sie es brauchen“. Das ist keine leichtfertige Antwort. Diese besondere Hybride ist halbsukkulent und speichert daher im Allgemeinen über lange Zeiträume Feuchtigkeit. Der Schlüssel ist, dass Sie, egal wie oft Sie es gießen, darauf achten sollten, dass es zwischendurch einige Zeit ausgetrocknet ist. Lassen Sie es nicht im Wasser stehen - sorgen Sie dafür, dass es gut belüftet ist und in hellem Licht steht. Durch Bewässern von unten sollte verhindert werden, dass sich im Topf Staunässe bildet. Aber letztendlich bestimmen Ihre eigenen Bedingungen, die Pflanze selbst sowie Ihr Topf- und Medienaufbau Ihre Bewässerungshäufigkeit. Hoffe das hilft.
@@Grow_Up_Man55 vielen Dank für ihre Antwort habe mich sehr darüber gefreut ich gieße die immer von oben meine Blumen aber nicht dass die so so nass sind Sonos Gisse ich die Blume nicht
I do have higher humidity and lower temps in both places I've lived in. I keep the nanouk under a grow light (less powerful bulb), and it still puts out mostly pink leaves. For ventilation, it's like 10 feet away from a central heating vent on a high ceiling. I used to get orangey spots in old place, but now I get brown crispy edges. I noticed that the stem that is more reverted green doesn't have the same issue. Could it be that the leaves with less chlorophyll are more prone to environmental variances?
You tend to find that many variegated plants with chimeral variegation i.e. less or no chlorophyl in parts of their leaves are more prone to turning black or crisping up. Monstera albo does it too. Have you measured the humidity in the room you're growing it in? Central heating can dry a place out - and crispy leaves can be caused by that. Of course, that's not the only cause. Too close to a grow light is another. Nanouk is such a diva it might just be doing it to spite you!
@@Grow_Up_Man55 Hi again! The humidity right now is about 55% (with heating on) but it can go to 70% on rainy days. I'll probably try moving it around in case the 5 cm shift helps. Hahaha
@@dianastandardtime Another possibility is the same thing that happens with Trad zebrina varieties in that the stems simply run out of steam. These are creeping plants that root along the length of each stem as they grow, continually renewing themselves when they touch the ground and root. We don't allow them them to do this so inevitably the stems begin to eject older leaves. I really must try growing one in a bag like I did with the zebrina. Good luck with yours!
I wouldn’t. They’re semi succulent. They prefer to be on the dry side and enjoy periods of drought, so misting would likely lead to rot, especially in cooler temperatures.
Hi Geoff! The begonia area in your hot house looks bare! Did you move things around? I need to try a Nanouk, my Zebrina died over the summer. It was my first and not sure why it died. But I'll try again!
Yeah I had a move about - also pruned a few things - but - many Begonias didn't like the low night temps and dropped leaves - which I kind of expected, and said I'd have to tweak things. I've done some tweaking and they've started growing again at a night temp of 14°C and a day of 18°C. It's not as low as I wanted but it's still a saving compared to 18°C 24/7. The Begonia longiciliata is now in the greenhouse as it's happy at low temps.
👀🌴👀🌱👀 WATCH THIS NEXT: How we all REALLY should be growing Tradescantia plants! th-cam.com/video/O2IwlfoatcY/w-d-xo.html 👀🌴👀🌱👀
I have only been into plants for the last year or so, and all my information comes from online. It’s gradually become clear that most people with plant websites or TH-cam channels ignore the fact that people seeking help are dealing with widely varying plant environments. They will sometimes prescribe care regimens that I now know would quickly kill my plants. I try to focus on sites run by people who grow plants in an environment similar to mine, but often they don’t offer that basic info. You do, of course, in the very title of your channel which is how I discovered you and became a fan and subscriber. But I am impressed that you actually discuss what the variables in microclimates might be and how that should affect the decisions we make regarding plant care. This is helpful for any newbie thinking about the needs of any plant. You do more good than you know. I hope you are feeling well and will enjoy your plants-and us!-for many years to come.
Thanks for your kind comments, Virginia, they're very much appreciated. Yeah, it's really hard, if not impossible, to cover every set of conditions with a care video. I just try to give a few pointers about how you'd need to think differently if conditions different to mine. Of course, the very best thing we could all do to ensure more plant success, would be to grow local weeds!🤣 And yes I'm feeling much better now, enjoying the Xmas holidays and enthusiastic to get back at it again in the New year!
I thought mine was dead, it had very long bare stems with just a few living leaves at the tips. So I cut everything off and put the living cuttings in a new pot. To my surprise a week later the original plant (which at this point was no more than a few cm of dry dead stems) starts to produce tiny new leaves all over the place 😊 It's still alive!
Nice to hear about a success story...😁
I have this variety of Tradescantia, it does grow fast and the leaves get bigger as it gets more mature. I do get the odd brown spot but remedy it by trimming the growth and taking cuttings to make new plants. I keep it near the window and don't water until it dries out.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with Nanouk, Louise. A lot of people use the prop method to keep renewing it. 😀
I live in North America with a south facing window and I keep the mini blind halfway open. This plant I keep in a plastic liner pot that sits inside a catch pot and I give it distilled water just so chemicals were not a factor for it and ALWAYS EVERYTIME bottom water it and never get its leaves wet at all. This plant is a DIVA but I love how it looks with the light pouring on it situated in a cobalt blue planter and it absolutely glows. Now it is just one of those plants you gotta tuck new babies in the top all the time to keep it well rounded looking. My soil mic on this is orchid bark, medium on the perlite, worm castings, soil. I check it if it needs water once a week whether its winter or summer given the furnace is on. This plant is work but if you love it enough the end result is worth it. :)
Thanks for the tips! It's interesting about water on the leaves. I tested this by spraying a coupe of plants daily for a month and keeping a couple of plants dry. The difference? None whatsoever! But...it was summertime so temps were relatively high and airflow was good. Yet some people swear that water on the leaves causes brown spots. I think it can do, but only in low temperatures and poorly ventilated spaces. Leaves will die eventually no matter you do. It's definitely a challenging hybrid, but as you say, with continued renewal it can be worth it.
Thank you for talking about how important climate is. I’m very new to the hobby and live in Arizona. Plants im being told need watered once a month are perking up when I water them after five days. Plant life 😂
Yeah I'd always be suspicious on watering frequency 'advice' - it can only ever be in very general terms as it's so specific to the environment.
I have lost all but a bit of my Tradescantia… my nanouk… gone. That one hanging behind you is lovely!
Oh no! Hopefully you feel inspired to give them another try?!
@@Grow_Up_Man55 definitely! I plan to give it a go this Spring as it is too cold 🥶 here in Colorado to bring ANY plant 🪴 home. High for today is 27f
@@TrishsOrchidLife Maybe try some edelweiss! 🤣
I have this plant at home and like it!
I just got my baby nanuok and I'm in the midlands c: fingers crossed.
I’m new to growing Nanouk this year. I’m fascinated how differently it grows compared to the classic ‘zebrina’ variety. Much slower growing and a bit more fragile. Loves high light but can also burn easily. I appreciate all your advice! As always great video! 🙏
Nanouk is the original Diva with a capital D! 😂
As for my place, the climate is hot in summer, where the temperature inside the house is from 30 to 38, and the relative humidity ranges from 15 to 20, due to the operation of the air conditioners. As for the Nanuk plant, I do not suffer from burning leaves except in the case of high temperature and dryness , but this problem exists in the trycolor plants, and after several experiments, I noticed that the problem comes from the contact of the leaves with the wet soil surface, or the presence of some soil on the stem, so I tried watering the plant using the bottom watering method, and this succeeded
Glad to hear you've found a fix.
Oooo here it is! Yay! Thank you!
I want to try letting a propagation creep. That would be perfect. I keep mine looking nice by constantly pruning it, repotting single node cuttings until it's completely full.. then when it gets wonky, it's time to propagate a new one. They do well like that, and bottom watering. But I want to experiment with the creeper habit!
Yeah exactly - that's how most enthusiasts get around the inevitable 'running out of steam' issue. I'm going to give mine the grow bag treatment - can't wait to see how it does compared to the zebrina I did - which is still going strong after 2 years. Good luck with your experiment!
Love it! Thank you! As soon as winter hit by me, she got some brown spots on her leaves.
Thanks Gianna - I hope you found that video useful.😁
I've had my Nanouk in Southern Ontario Canada for about 3 years. It does very well outside during the summer in general potting soil from the garden center. Each autumn when I bring it inside I get the baring stems and browning leaves, and resort to cutting the tips to root in water while discarding the original plant. The water rooted stems and leaves never seem to brown or rot. I have decided the best way to over winter them is hanging in a glass jar of water in the window (east) until I can replant in a pot outside in the spring. Seems to work so far.
Yeah that's pretty much most people's experiences of nanouk. The longer the stems get, the more likely you'll get bare sections. They simply run out of steam from a single rooting point. Glad to hear you've found a workaround.
I stopped having bare stems when I got rid of my tradescantia 😑
😂
I generally underwater my house plants, and so I do well with succulents and the nanouk (and extremely poorly with calathea and alocasia). I live in northern Alberta, Canada, where the daylight is long during the summer, and the sun is low and can penetrate deeply into the interior of the house during the winter. It is cool and dry (mountain winds) all year round. The nanouk is very happy living on my balcony during the summer and next to my west facing windows in winter. As you predict, it loves bright light, good air flow, moderate fertilizer, and can tolerate less than ideal humidity. When it's happy, it will flower a lot. This year I'll try to grow it in a rectangle hanging planter over the balcony rail. I'm sure it will be spectacular.
Good to hear you've cracked it! My Nanouks are the only Trads I've yet to see bloom, unfortunately. I might try one outside this summer to see what effect the extra light intensity has on it. Thanks for all your care tips - they really help!
I live in a similar but not as far north climate. Whenever I put plants out for the summer I've gotten bugs. I can't figure out how to make it work.
Mines under plant lights but getting hit with air from air conditioner bushy very few brown leaves
I just got one of these. I was drawn to the wonderful purple.
Thanks for the insight bud.
Hope it grows well for you!
Such a brilliant video. Thank you so much. I live in a sub tropical climate and have issues with browning leaves in summer! 🤷🏻♀️
Glad it was helpful! But ultimately, these plants are just a bad hybrid, and no matter what you do you’re likely to get issues sooner or later. 🤷♂️ The only fool proof method is to keep propagating it and enjoy it as a young plant. IMHO of course! Good luck!
@@Grow_Up_Man55 love your advice. Thanks!
I'm in Arizona and it's too extreme outside to grow. I have them in a pot, inside with indirect light but I think the key is bottom watering. If I water on top the moisture rots the stem immediately. Great channel!
Thanks Tracy - yeah I bottom water too.
Tradescantia and all related plants in the group ie Callisia, Spiderwort, Geogenanthus hate water splashed on their leaves. I have misted mine with Orchid fertilizer and they did fine but large amounts are a big no no IMHO & several other growers I have spoken with. I fertilize my Tradescantia with orchid fertilizer or houseplant fertilizer about every 2 weeks year round. My plants are indoors and I use multiple types of grow lights in each room I have plants. So I would say they do like to be fertilized and I see a large amount of growth and blooms when doing so. Now it goes without saying don't burn them with too much. Household is 1-1-1. Orchid numbers are a bit higher. I used MCU orchid and general Miracle grow houseplant & fruit & veggie plant. I water around the leaves & have drainage holes in the bottom and make sure all excess water drains out. Some I grow in soil with perlite. Cuttings I grow in sphagnum. My apt stays about 66°F- 74°F year round as I live in Northern California & it is too cold in winter low 30's°F( freezing) and too warm 116°F in Summer. I water when they get a bit dry. I don't leave the soil constantly wet as it will kill them and don't leave it dry as that invites root rot. Do think Tradescantia like a minimum humidity of 50-80 %. This can actually be achieved with micro climates & simply grouping plants. I do think that everyone should do what works best for them but I think not enough humidity & too much water are the killers of these plants. I do pinch my plants and have learned this by trial and error. They look fuller & are much prettier with pinching. They seem to grow faster as well. 💚🪴🌱🌵🌿☘️🍃🪷
Thanks for sharing Debbie. It's odd about the water on leaves thing. I tested it by spraying a couple of plants over a month and leaving another couple dry. The difference after a month of daily misting? Nothing whatsoever! Not a single mark. I suspect it CAN affect leaves but only in certain conditions - perhaps in lower temperatures and higher humidity, and poorly ventilated areas. As with all things plant-related, it 100% depends on the environment it finds itself in. I'm glad you seem to have found what works for you. The only factor that DOES seem to be consistent across differing environments is the fact that sooner or later, unless you continually renew the stems by pinching and replanting, they develop dead leaves and kind of 'run out of steam' - a characteristic I expect is due to them growing from a single rooting point rather than being allowed to root as they scramble.
It's easy enough to getvitvto branch. Just pluck off the top new leaf. It needs to be done as soon as ypu can see it and can pluck it off . Continuing to pluck off any new top growth.
I think it’s maybe fertilizer on the leaves and not the water that’s causing the brown leaves?
5:19 About the brown marks in the leaves, is true, I have a zebrina in a pot in my bedroom, I was wondering if it was lack of water but then I got sick so I rested in my bed like a week, and I didn't water it even if the soil was kinda dry, since I live in a very cold city and since I had to be on my bedroom all day, I turned up the temperature in my room, and once I got better I watched my plant and it didn't have any new brown mark
I find my tradescantia much prefer to be dryer than keeping them moist!
Me too! Who are these 'keep it moist' people?? 😂
@@Grow_Up_Man55 😄
Thank you! This was super helpful. I was going to buy this plant through easyplant but now I feel there is alot of false advertising about this particular plant. It seems it's not a super easy plant to maintain, its not actually a trailing plant which is what I wanted and it requires alot of care. Can you do a video on Philodendron Brazil, Pothos, and the ZZ plant. Maybe those plants are actually easier to maintain and are really trailing plants.
Glad it was helpful, Sarah. To be honest providing you're willing to continually propagate it - which involves chopping some off and planting straight into media - then you'll always have at least one plant looking decent. The mistake comes in thinking you can keep the same plant looking great for years and years. And thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks a lot Geoff! 🙏🍀
I hope it was useful.🤷♂️😁
Watching video your videos are so good lots of good information
Thank you so much 🙂
Geoff, my greenhouse was recently finished, but I find myself clueless when it comes to basic operational concerns. I’ve had bubble wrap put in for the winter, which is a step in the right direction, but I don’t know what the best kind shelving is (nor how affordable) or how to water. I’ve been dragging the hose over and letting ‘er rip, but we both know that’s no solution to keeping plants healthy year after year. Are all of yours in trays that you can water from the bottom? I’m rather overwhelmed by the whole business!
Linda from Texas. 😢
Hi Linda, glad to hear you've made it so far with your greenhouse - a new one is always an exciting time. I've got plenty of videos on the channel on the 'operational side' as you describe it - I'm sure you'll find other videos useful to you. In terms of watering, it's more about the plants you're keeping in there than it is about the greenhouse. You need to get to know what kind of conditions they like, whether they're in full growth and how much they like on an individual basis, and there's no quick answer to that other than spending time with them and responding to what they do. If you're keeping tropical plants in there (like me) then watering will be on a different level to keeping temperate plants which will likely go dormant anyway through the winter months and not need watering. Just take your time and learn about your plants when you can - always making sure to observe them very closely and respond to their changes. There is no 'best' kind of shelving - cheaper tends to be flimsy aluminium that bends easily - but if looked after can last years. More expensive tends to be more robust. I keep my plants in trays so the water and other plant detritus doesn't fall through to the bench and floor. But you'll notice some plants are in smaller trays - some raised up on gravel to allow more drainage - some actually standing in water, so mounted on wood and some hanging in baskets. It totally depends on what the plant is and what it likes, the season, the weather conditions (which affects the interior of a greenhouse more than you'd expect) and the growth stage of the plant. It can seem overwhelming - but needn't be. That's the fun of indoor gardening. Take your time and enjoy it. You'll get plenty of plant losses which is fine - just learn from them and move on. Good luck!
Love your videos
Thanks Cathy that really means a lot to me. 😀
This plant looks very pretty but its a terrible weed in Australia. Youll never have a good healthy looking plant if you try to grow it in a pot, unless you use a bath tub. This is because as it grows almost each new leave is a spot on the stem where it will take hold in the soil. If in a pot, it will grow a few leaves along the stem but it will always end up looking stretched and scrappy. Here in Australia it's common name is wandering gew. A horrible plant that started in someone's garden and just a sml broken off stem will root down wherever it can. In the bush or peoples back yards its reverted back to a more green plant but still throws out the purple color. Its also very toxic for dogs and other soft pawed animals as it makes them really itchy. Wherever they have contact with it, they get a rash. If you live in a warmer climate and this plant isn't native to where you live. DONT PLANT IT OUT IN THE GROUND, its very invasive and grows thick. ✌
It isn’t this hybrid that’s a weed, it’s Tradescantia zebrina you’re talking about. This is such a fussy plant it’s unlikely to cause many problems outside. I agree with you regarding it being a scrambler as I’ve pointed out in the video. It needs to be able to root along the length of each stem rather than from a single point. This is why many people continually renew it from cuttings.
Mine is doing perfect! Even flowered abit. Dont water every week. Once every 2 or 3, probably once a week during warmth.
Lucky you! 😀
@@Grow_Up_Man55 Yes, I feel lucky indeed. I do nothing special and it has no brown spots, nothing. I feel sorry for a lot of people who have difficulties with it.
How long have you been growing it?
@@Grow_Up_Man55 must be a year or so.
@@lucasvermeulen4454 You may find that over the course of its next year you start to encounter problems with it. I'm yet to see a 2 year old plant without dead leaves and bare stems. It isn't the conditions - it's just the natural growing habit as it's not able to root from multiple points in a pot. You may well have found the 'perfect' conditions - and well done if you have - but I'd take some cuttings just as insurance.
I find if you give lots of light . And treat your water with stress coat. You don't get brown leaves
Light is good for them, yes. But what’s ‘stress coat’? Haven’t heard of that.
@@Grow_Up_Man55 It's used in tropical fish keeping to take harmful substances out of tap water. It's also really good for chalatheas
You get no brown edges on leaves if you use it . One spot in litre of water . It's about £14 for bottle on Amazon lasts years
@@Grow_Up_Man55Stress Coat is an aquarium water conditioner. You can find it anywhere they sell aquarium products.
Wie oft muss man die Blume gießen einmal in der Woche und von unten oder wie bitte eine Antwort
Die Häufigkeit des Gießens hängt von mehreren Faktoren ab - eine allgemeingültige Antwort ist daher nicht möglich. Sie gießen sie, „wenn sie es brauchen“. Das ist keine leichtfertige Antwort. Diese besondere Hybride ist halbsukkulent und speichert daher im Allgemeinen über lange Zeiträume Feuchtigkeit. Der Schlüssel ist, dass Sie, egal wie oft Sie es gießen, darauf achten sollten, dass es zwischendurch einige Zeit ausgetrocknet ist. Lassen Sie es nicht im Wasser stehen - sorgen Sie dafür, dass es gut belüftet ist und in hellem Licht steht. Durch Bewässern von unten sollte verhindert werden, dass sich im Topf Staunässe bildet. Aber letztendlich bestimmen Ihre eigenen Bedingungen, die Pflanze selbst sowie Ihr Topf- und Medienaufbau Ihre Bewässerungshäufigkeit. Hoffe das hilft.
@@Grow_Up_Man55 vielen Dank für ihre Antwort habe mich sehr darüber gefreut ich gieße die immer von oben meine Blumen aber nicht dass die so so nass sind Sonos Gisse ich die Blume nicht
Thank you, bottom watering is a must here. My first one died so 2nd one should live lol
Let's hope so! Good luck.🤞
@@Grow_Up_Man55 thanks
I just got one of these babies! It looks like a bunch of garbage but I’m loving it.
🤣
I mist mine with hot water regularly with success
Can you re pot tradescantia nanouk plant in pon?
I've never tried it - but - Tradescantia will root in just about anything (even gravel!) so I don't see why not.
I do have higher humidity and lower temps in both places I've lived in. I keep the nanouk under a grow light (less powerful bulb), and it still puts out mostly pink leaves. For ventilation, it's like 10 feet away from a central heating vent on a high ceiling.
I used to get orangey spots in old place, but now I get brown crispy edges. I noticed that the stem that is more reverted green doesn't have the same issue. Could it be that the leaves with less chlorophyll are more prone to environmental variances?
You tend to find that many variegated plants with chimeral variegation i.e. less or no chlorophyl in parts of their leaves are more prone to turning black or crisping up. Monstera albo does it too. Have you measured the humidity in the room you're growing it in? Central heating can dry a place out - and crispy leaves can be caused by that. Of course, that's not the only cause. Too close to a grow light is another. Nanouk is such a diva it might just be doing it to spite you!
@@Grow_Up_Man55 Hi again! The humidity right now is about 55% (with heating on) but it can go to 70% on rainy days. I'll probably try moving it around in case the 5 cm shift helps. Hahaha
@@dianastandardtime Another possibility is the same thing that happens with Trad zebrina varieties in that the stems simply run out of steam. These are creeping plants that root along the length of each stem as they grow, continually renewing themselves when they touch the ground and root. We don't allow them them to do this so inevitably the stems begin to eject older leaves. I really must try growing one in a bag like I did with the zebrina. Good luck with yours!
I have a hard time keeping my nanuok alive
They're proper divas!
Should I mist my nanouk?
I wouldn’t. They’re semi succulent. They prefer to be on the dry side and enjoy periods of drought, so misting would likely lead to rot, especially in cooler temperatures.
@@Grow_Up_Man55Do they make little flowers?
@@mrflash4467yes they have clusters of white blooms.
Is the Nanouk a trailing varietie or it just grows upright?
Hi Geoff! The begonia area in your hot house looks bare! Did you move things around? I need to try a Nanouk, my Zebrina died over the summer. It was my first and not sure why it died. But I'll try again!
Yeah I had a move about - also pruned a few things - but - many Begonias didn't like the low night temps and dropped leaves - which I kind of expected, and said I'd have to tweak things. I've done some tweaking and they've started growing again at a night temp of 14°C and a day of 18°C. It's not as low as I wanted but it's still a saving compared to 18°C 24/7. The Begonia longiciliata is now in the greenhouse as it's happy at low temps.
I just got one of these, and only recently found your channel. Thank you for both x🪴x
Excellent! Hope this is useful.