Love how you show without any cuts and edits of you working through the problems and explaining as you go along. As a DIY’er, it really helps to see this.
Brother, I absolutely love seeing your work. What I've learned from you allowed me to do my first tile job in my home. I am a network engineer and realize that you go through a lot of the same problem solving processes on your jobs that I go through in my work. Keep up the great work... Your are definitely one of my heroes!
It occurred to me while watching you adjust the membrane that it could be beneficial to draw a line against the kerdi with a sharpie before you remove the backing so you have a reference point. Good video!
As a DIYer and not a pro, but watching many pros like Tile Coach and others thinset the ditra heat down, I am not sure this peel and stick would really be any better for us DIYers. Certainly in a production environment where time is money and you can lay tile/wire the same day it could make a ton of sense. Will wait to see more info on the peel and stick.
I personally would be using a small floor roller on it. I've installed sheet goods for years and that initial roll , even with pressure sensitive is super important. Again, love your videos borther, been a sub for a long time!
Not true, there is tape made for taping vapor barrier and when it get heat it become impossible to peel of. It has been tested to last 100 years air tight.
This made me laugh hard😂 was raised in a pretty remote northern part of Canada where mines, timber and construction of roads and hydro electric mega dams were the only jobs. I thought all men were supposed to be strong strong. When we moved south as my dad got contracts elsewhere I was almost culturally shocked😅
I used this and it seemed well adhered for a few weeks. After I cleaned up thinset on my ditra with a some water I notice that the ditra lost a lot of its adhesion and I was able to pull it up.
Thank you for showing your work when not everything goes as planned and have to troubleshoot a little bit. When your installs go perfect I feel like I suck at it 🤣 As always thanks for the great videos!
Here my thoughts, if you had to clean and prime it then walk away to let dry you might as well just mortar it down. That peel and stick in my opinion is asking for problems. What happens over time from moisture or water that may get under it and break done that adhesive. I'm out for sure Thanks for a professional insight As always keep on keeping on
@@handymansolutions7834 You don't primer a mortar installation. You wash the floor and put down the thinset. You don't have to wait for a couple hours for the primer to dry before you can put down the Ditra. Wash, spread thinset, and put down the Ditra. If you have to primer the day before, then you aren't really ahead of the game, when you could have just installed the Ditra the day before, then come in the next day and put in the wire.
He did wash the floor. Twice he said. it was still dusty. That’s why he primed. So if he he used the traditional method he’d also still have to primer it.
@@handymansolutions7834 traditional method is wipe floor down, spread thinset/mortar, lay ditra, use float to collapse notches, then roll it or stomp on it. Much more secure in my opinion. Primer is usually for leveling or commercial jobs that have cracks in concrete.
Here in the UK we have one called Warmup. Have used it a few times, and seems to be the real deal. This one comes in 1metre squares so a lot easier to handle. Meant to have self healing qualities, it's not cheap, but pretty good. Generally put a insulation board down first them stick this onto the boards.
Schluters uncoupling membrane is the only membrane that, to your point comes up when I need to reroute the cables. All other membrane products stay in place. Loved the video as always, cool product......😬but, it being schluter I just don't trust it
"I was in the Schluter training and they suggested using their own primer instead of a different primer brand, otherwise if something happens, I cannot use the Schluter warranty."
Specifically in the flooring industry, "peel-and-stick" has notoriously failed over the years especially in wet and/or moisture areas like kitchens/baths where moisture and water finds its way under the sticky surface. Leaking toilets, valves, drains, etc. Delamination awaits. Plus adding heating cable to a peel-and-stick substrate seems also a recipe for delaminating any peel-and-stick that's in contact with it. I could never trust it not delaminating and would prefer an embedded mortar contact rather than any advantage of "saving time" so I could get tiling right away.😇
Ditra is just overpriced crap. Ho in the blue tiles can stick to that stupid plastic. All the tiles that I have demolished and people were using Ditra came off like nothing. I am using the green Mapei that has small micro fibers and once the mud stick to it there is no way you can remove tiles that easy. Ditra and now peel and stick.omg a horror story.
I used another brand peel and stick last year in the UK. It was supposed to be compatible with a tanking/waterproofing layer that was applied first. However, the tanking layer was textured which meant the peel and stick never made full contact - it only stuck to the upper parts of the relief surface. I immediately expressed concern to supplier but they assured me it was tried and tested. However, when we tiled, and I had to lift one up to correct pattern, the suction pulled up the peel and stick. A big fat no from me. I told customer and supplier that I would not guarantee work.
I have some left over regular Schluter Ditra (not heat and not peel and stick) after doing my floors. Can I use it in my shower underneath my dry pack shower pan instead of roofing felt and metal lathe? I wouldn't see why not plus I like the idea of extra protection from moisture getting to my advantech subfloor.
Will Schluter ever produce normal ditra that is peel and stick?....im tackling a bathroom remodel for my daughter's birthday and watching a ton of your videos to help me plan....so thanks....
I don't know how new it is but the INSULATED/DUO Ditra is best for concrete. It is has an insulating layer on the layer next to the concrete and it also comes sticky. BUT there should be a primer rolled on the concrete that they sell to help bond it.
Ive seen multiple videos of shower installations done with drywall, then waterproofing membranes; shluter, and hydroban, and even redguard… if using drywall I prefer to use the actual waterproof membrane itself versus the Redguard; for which I have used before (full disclosure), but I value your opinion so what do you advise?
Hi Isaac! Your job looks great? What's the approximate difference in cost between the regular Ditra heat flooring opposed to this new self stick? Always a great video! Thank you.
Primed a dusty slab? I typically clean slabs like I clean grout so I don't leave behind any dust. It would be really nice to lay cable on the same day as laying the ditra heat though! I could see this technology being used for waterproofing. Just leave off the adhesive where it overlaps, and we can use proper sealants.
And I would use pen marks to line it up if I try that stuff out the lady’s at Florida tile we’re bragging about it. Love that ur making a video on it how did u like it ??
Once upon a time we used "peel and stick" vinyl squares on our kitchen floor. It lasted for some years, then corners started becoming unstuck, and eventually entire squares. I agree with the thoughts about adhesive products having a short life (compared to cement/tile solutions). This demo is useful because it makes people aware of new products - but as far as "how long will it last", only time will tell.
I think this application is significantly different from peel and stick tile, ditra heat is an uncoupling membrane as well as a medium to run your heat wire, which is designed to allow the tile floor to move independently (albeit slightly) from the subfloor preventing cracking in the case the house settles. You lay tile on top of the membrane, so I highly doubt that you would run into any of the issues you mentioned (peeling corners or cracking) I think this is a very good, quick and easy solution for both the pros and diyers.
wonder how you'd waterproof this. Doesn't matter on concrete, but on wood subfloor you'd need to band the seams or something if you wanted to have it be 100% waterproof i.e. think wet room.
Have you seen the Bal Flexbone 2easy it’s an uncoupling tile membrane that you don’t stick to a floor yes that’s right no primer no adhesive just tile straight on top of the membrane.
@@patrickcowan8701 if you is the all set it’s mix 5 minutes slake 10 minutes and mix again 3 minutes that 18 minutes just for the all set - but like you was saying is a different thinset and boom 10 minutes you’re right.
@@patrickcowan8701Damn you are fast if you can get all tools for mixing and spreading and water etc then no need to even wash tools afterwards. I have already 20 years redo several stuff that your type of fast dudes has done in first place.
I would like to see a test of just how easy it uncouples from the slab. Maybe sticks to much and transfers a crack up into the tile? The idea is that it will uncouple.
Its fairly obvious that it will delaminate, and im sure that applies to the manufacturer as well. The question is, will that affect the tile install? Its a decoupling membrane thats decoupled at that point, and with the weight of tile+cement and the fact that its all boxed in (trim, thresholds etc) would it actually move or encourage cracking?
lol I’m like “Jesus stop pulling it up!!!!””” Then there’s still frocken plastic undert it… this stuff seems like a nightmare but then again that’s part of our job everything is very delicate and reliant on chemical bonds
It’s pressure sensitive (activated) adhesive you can pull it as many times as you need before you apply that pressure. I’ve used pressure sensitive glue for glue down LVP for years. One of the benefits is before you run it with a 80lb roller applying pressure you can pull it up and adjust but once you apply that pressure that’s it. I’ve pulled planks the next day before that brought up the top of the sub floor with it. Cool stuff!
2 things here, this would be great for large areas, that will save so much time doing a 100+ mtr floor. second is you should always Prime every surface
I think there may be a crucial step missing. After reading some comments, I noticed a complaint about the membrane peeling off over time. It would be helpful to provide instructions on properly preparing the subfloor, cleaning the surface, and applying primer. This process may seem easy to those unfamiliar with it, but it requires attention to detail and should not be taken lightly.
Hi,have you ever demolished tiles installed on Ditra? I demolished many and Ditra is the worse product ever. Will never used it in my life. Currently doing my two bathrooms in my house and using the green Mapei and it works amazing. Try to remove tiles from Mapei mat and compare it to Ditra. Tiles come of Ditra like they are just sitting with no mud . It is a horrible oroduct.
Had to stop at the seven-minute 44-second mark, first glance not impressed with Detra product, second and not to tell you your job cuz you're really intelligent at it, maybe put some guidelines down. Then when you're happy with the placement of the product peel off the cling free. I will carry on let's see what you say about the product
Love how you show without any cuts and edits of you working through the problems and explaining as you go along. As a DIY’er, it really helps to see this.
yes exactly. need to see more struggle. its the working through and solving the struggle that teaches the most.
Brother, I absolutely love seeing your work. What I've learned from you allowed me to do my first tile job in my home. I am a network engineer and realize that you go through a lot of the same problem solving processes on your jobs that I go through in my work. Keep up the great work... Your are definitely one of my heroes!
That is awesome!
It occurred to me while watching you adjust the membrane that it could be beneficial to draw a line against the kerdi with a sharpie before you remove the backing so you have a reference point. Good video!
As a DIYer and not a pro, but watching many pros like Tile Coach and others thinset the ditra heat down, I am not sure this peel and stick would really be any better for us DIYers. Certainly in a production environment where time is money and you can lay tile/wire the same day it could make a ton of sense. Will wait to see more info on the peel and stick.
I personally would be using a small floor roller on it. I've installed sheet goods for years and that initial roll , even with pressure sensitive is super important. Again, love your videos borther, been a sub for a long time!
Yes, always roll pressure-sensitive adhesives.
Rolling may be hard to give even 30 lbs of even pressure per instructions.
Like the zip system. Don't forget to roll it; got it coach 😅
Definitely you should do a test on your shop floor 👌🏻
Would like to see a revisit on this peel and stick ditra cable heated floor system
Heat definitely loosens anything sticky, so seems counter intuitive
Isn't it insulated? So the heat shouldn't transfer. Maybe I'm wrong
Maybe so, but these don't. Obviously they've been heavily tested over time.
Not true, there is tape made for taping vapor barrier and when it get heat it become impossible to peel of. It has been tested to last 100 years air tight.
Love the channel. New subscriber. I’m only doing tile work to develop forearms and biceps like yours.
This made me laugh hard😂 was raised in a pretty remote northern part of Canada where mines, timber and construction of roads and hydro electric mega dams were the only jobs. I thought all men were supposed to be strong strong. When we moved south as my dad got contracts elsewhere I was almost culturally shocked😅
A weighted vinyl flooring roller might be good for making a secure bond
Nice video Isaac ❤
There was once an adhesive schluter made for ditra. They discontinued it I believe. Always good brotha!
You have lots of style and class. 👍
Did you consider using duo to create thermal break so heat wouldn’t transfer down through concrete?
I used this and it seemed well adhered for a few weeks. After I cleaned up thinset on my ditra with a some water I notice that the ditra lost a lot of its adhesion and I was able to pull it up.
I love that Isaac drinks outta the sink...MY MAN😅
Thank you for showing your work when not everything goes as planned and have to troubleshoot a little bit. When your installs go perfect I feel like I suck at it 🤣
As always thanks for the great videos!
Here my thoughts, if you had to clean and prime it then walk away to let dry you might as well just mortar it down. That peel and stick in my opinion is asking for problems.
What happens over time from moisture or water that may get under it and break done that adhesive.
I'm out for sure
Thanks for a professional insight
As always keep on keeping on
You still would have to do that for mortar installation. You don’t want to put
Mortar down on dust either.
@@handymansolutions7834 You don't primer a mortar installation. You wash the floor and put down the thinset. You don't have to wait for a couple hours for the primer to dry before you can put down the Ditra. Wash, spread thinset, and put down the Ditra. If you have to primer the day before, then you aren't really ahead of the game, when you could have just installed the Ditra the day before, then come in the next day and put in the wire.
He did wash the floor. Twice he said. it was still dusty. That’s why he primed. So if he he used the traditional method he’d also still have to primer it.
@@handymansolutions7834 Thinset bonds best to cement. Wash the floor, and then flat trowel the area, then do your notch coat.
@@handymansolutions7834 traditional method is wipe floor down, spread thinset/mortar, lay ditra, use float to collapse notches, then roll it or stomp on it. Much more secure in my opinion. Primer is usually for leveling or commercial jobs that have cracks in concrete.
doesn't pressure sensitive mean you can walk on immediately?
Here in the UK we have one called Warmup. Have used it a few times, and seems to be the real deal. This one comes in 1metre squares so a lot easier to handle. Meant to have self healing qualities, it's not cheap, but pretty good.
Generally put a insulation board down first them stick this onto the boards.
The Ditra heat is also available in squares
Tiles not glued to cement floor so how long will they last?
That's right primer for sure! you rock.
Schluters uncoupling membrane is the only membrane that, to your point comes up when I need to reroute the cables. All other membrane products stay in place. Loved the video as always, cool product......😬but, it being schluter I just don't trust it
"I was in the Schluter training and they suggested using their own primer instead of a different primer brand, otherwise if something happens, I cannot use the Schluter warranty."
Specifically in the flooring industry, "peel-and-stick" has notoriously failed over the years especially in wet and/or moisture areas like kitchens/baths where moisture and water finds its way under the sticky surface. Leaking toilets, valves, drains, etc. Delamination awaits. Plus adding heating cable to a peel-and-stick substrate seems also a recipe for delaminating any peel-and-stick that's in contact with it. I could never trust it not delaminating and would prefer an embedded mortar contact rather than any advantage of "saving time" so I could get tiling right away.😇
yep. most of us smirk at any mention of 'lick-n-stick' 😂
Ditra is just overpriced crap.
Ho in the blue tiles can stick to that stupid plastic.
All the tiles that I have demolished and people were using Ditra came off like nothing.
I am using the green Mapei that has small micro fibers and once the mud stick to it there is no way you can remove tiles that easy.
Ditra and now peel and stick.omg a horror story.
Have tiles on a floating membrane may actually be better to prevent tile cracking because of the concrete subfloor cracks
what is the price point per sq. ft.
Do you like this over the cement board on the floor?
Have you ever tested the waterproofing of an epoxy foam board shower wall ?
How does DITRAcompare to painting RedGard on the bare concrete? What primer did you use?
Sweep floor, rapid set under uncoupling membrane. Boom, you're installing the same day. No need to mess around with peel and stick.
You don’t need rapid set. You can lay tile right away.
@@handymansolutions7834 Nah bro. When you pull a tile up it pulls up the membrane. Best to let it set up hard before tile installation.
I used another brand peel and stick last year in the UK. It was supposed to be compatible with a tanking/waterproofing layer that was applied first. However, the tanking layer was textured which meant the peel and stick never made full contact - it only stuck to the upper parts of the relief surface.
I immediately expressed concern to supplier but they assured me it was tried and tested. However, when we tiled, and I had to lift one up to correct pattern, the suction pulled up the peel and stick.
A big fat no from me. I told customer and supplier that I would not guarantee work.
Warmup? I have used it a few times, very good stuff, never had a failure, have done some very big areas with it.
It's meant to be self healing.
Shouldn't the base molding be removed and the tile under the base molding??? Just asking!!!! I like the product
usually yes, but maybe they were ok with getting a shoe molding or quarter round.
Where do you get the extra sensors? Ditra doesn't appear to sell them as an accessory.
amazing as always
I just saw this at the contractors direct warehouse This week
What is the cost for a roll, thanks
I have some left over regular Schluter Ditra (not heat and not peel and stick) after doing my floors. Can I use it in my shower underneath my dry pack shower pan instead of roofing felt and metal lathe? I wouldn't see why not plus I like the idea of extra protection from moisture getting to my advantech subfloor.
Will Schluter ever produce normal ditra that is peel and stick?....im tackling a bathroom remodel for my daughter's birthday and watching a ton of your videos to help me plan....so thanks....
I was just wondering why you didn’t draw a line on the floor where it it was Square?
I don't know how new it is but the INSULATED/DUO Ditra is best for concrete. It is has an insulating layer on the layer next to the concrete and it also comes sticky. BUT there should be a primer rolled on the concrete that they sell to help bond it.
Can you use the peel and stick on sub wood flooring?
Most likely. If it's in good shape. Definitely prime it beforehand. I would check the data sheet first though.
Yes
Do they also have this in all the types of ditra?😊
no, just the heat kind for now
You should do that thing Sal does and use a roller with a bag of thinset on it.
Great vid. Can you try a test to see if you can pull up a piece after letting it bond for a week? That will test the adhesive for sure!!!…
Ive seen multiple videos of shower installations done with drywall, then waterproofing membranes; shluter, and hydroban, and even redguard… if using drywall I prefer to use the actual waterproof membrane itself versus the Redguard; for which I have used before (full disclosure), but I value your opinion so what do you advise?
Hi Isaac! Your job looks great? What's the approximate difference in cost between the regular Ditra heat flooring opposed to this new self stick? Always a great video! Thank you.
Good lord gentlemen you are a class act masterful.👍🐬
I was curious about this product. Does it or can you use it on Advantech 3/4 plywood flooring?
yes you can, plywood and osb
@Conrad Coolerfiend okay thanks just not in showers and wet areas correct?
correct
Primed a dusty slab? I typically clean slabs like I clean grout so I don't leave behind any dust.
It would be really nice to lay cable on the same day as laying the ditra heat though!
I could see this technology being used for waterproofing. Just leave off the adhesive where it overlaps, and we can use proper sealants.
And I would use pen marks to line it up if I try that stuff out the lady’s at Florida tile we’re bragging about it. Love that ur making a video on it how did u like it ??
Once upon a time we used "peel and stick" vinyl squares on our kitchen floor. It lasted for some years, then corners started becoming unstuck, and eventually entire squares. I agree with the thoughts about adhesive products having a short life (compared to cement/tile solutions). This demo is useful because it makes people aware of new products - but as far as "how long will it last", only time will tell.
I think this application is significantly different from peel and stick tile, ditra heat is an uncoupling membrane as well as a medium to run your heat wire, which is designed to allow the tile floor to move independently (albeit slightly) from the subfloor preventing cracking in the case the house settles. You lay tile on top of the membrane, so I highly doubt that you would run into any of the issues you mentioned (peeling corners or cracking) I think this is a very good, quick and easy solution for both the pros and diyers.
IF I’m doing heat on Cement floors. I use Cerazorb or cork on the floor then the Ditra heat on top. Pushes the heat up instead of into the slab.
my concern would be water getting under the sticky. I think I'll wait until some time has passed to see the long term results
Y is those big cracks in that concrete slab like that?
wonder how you'd waterproof this. Doesn't matter on concrete, but on wood subfloor you'd need to band the seams or something if you wanted to have it be 100% waterproof i.e. think wet room.
This is great, because I find that the Ditra never really bonds that well even when using the "All Set" super sloppy.
Just make sure you are using a good quality mortar and the right trowel size. Ditra heat and ditra xl need a bigger trowel then standard ditra
@@jakeklassen3702agreed
@@jakeklassen3702 sounds like a use the right size trowel issues there,
All set works good. Gotta make sure you have clean and profiled slab.
Great video, thinking of buying it.
But wouldn’t use it with heat
Just easy to install
When it’s layed out unpeeled, mark the outer edge with a pencil line. A lot of time saved!
Can you specify the underlayment primer?
Hum...interesting...does that mean ditra can be installed with a store bought pressure sensitive glue?...that would be much easier way to install it
Made that bathroom Lego compliant
Thanks
This reminds me of rolling out ice guard on a roof
One thing is positive
You don't get messy with thinset
I usually mark a line with a pencil, and follow through after
Very interesting.
This reminds me of schluter. Seems like another product that won't last. Eventually the stick will come loose I feel. But good-luck!
Snap a line man!
Peel like u do snow guard on a roof , leave it in place and peel from under it , bet it would work way better than ur way
Looks like a pain in the ass ill stick to thin set like to be able to cover check
probably drop lines or Lazer who help in placement...
Have you seen the Bal Flexbone 2easy it’s an uncoupling tile membrane that you don’t stick to a floor yes that’s right no primer no adhesive just tile straight on top of the membrane.
🤔🤔🤔😬..I was never 💯 percent confident after using thinset with ditra..I'm really curious to see how this hold up..
that seemed to be a lot faster than mixing and troweling thinset.
Ten minutes for thinset, ten to spread, ten to set the ditra. Done and its proven performance.
@@patrickcowan8701 if you is the all set it’s mix 5 minutes slake 10 minutes and mix again 3 minutes that 18 minutes just for the all set - but like you was saying is a different thinset and boom 10 minutes you’re right.
@@patrickcowan8701Damn you are fast if you can get all tools for mixing and spreading and water etc then no need to even wash tools afterwards.
I have already 20 years redo several stuff that your type of fast dudes has done in first place.
I probably would have started peeling it like you did then left it laying down then peeled it from the bottom without rolling it up to peel it off
I would like to see a test of just how easy it uncouples from the slab. Maybe sticks to much and transfers a crack up into the tile? The idea is that it will uncouple.
Maybe drill some holes on a broken slab and inject some expanding foam?
the uncoupling is happening in the lugs, not in the way its stuck to the substrate.
@@conradcoolerfiend so it only helps with horizontal movement not vertical? A bad crack rise or settlement will transfer to the tile? Just wondering.
@@MrFishone777 it helps with vertical too. there is some height to the hollow lugs.
Its fairly obvious that it will delaminate, and im sure that applies to the manufacturer as well. The question is, will that affect the tile install? Its a decoupling membrane thats decoupled at that point, and with the weight of tile+cement and the fact that its all boxed in (trim, thresholds etc) would it actually move or encourage cracking?
Looks like more work than regular ditra
i dont think id use it .. probably stick with the thinset idk..
A dirt-attracting polymer that is almost impossible to clean or wipe down. Not in my bathroom.
Hey Issac it's called a chalk line
Nice
Id be losing my shit having to peel it up and move it a 1/4” lol
An expensive fix after the sticky lets go.
This is going to be a future bathroom failed video.
I would rather used thinset or an actual trowel down glue
Prep time is probably the same as the tried and true.
Im going to stick to thinset! Cut dropped in the same day. i don't hold faith in that glue.
Where are we going with this materials 🤔it doesn’t even look professional, it’s like if just want to get the money ASAP 🤦🏽♂️
Easy money ✅
@@danbartstow9829 😂😂
lol I’m like “Jesus stop pulling it up!!!!””” Then there’s still frocken plastic undert it… this stuff seems like a nightmare but then again that’s part of our job everything is very delicate and reliant on chemical bonds
It’s pressure sensitive (activated) adhesive you can pull it as many times as you need before you apply that pressure. I’ve used pressure sensitive glue for glue down LVP for years. One of the benefits is before you run it with a 80lb roller applying pressure you can pull it up and adjust but once you apply that pressure that’s it. I’ve pulled planks the next day before that brought up the top of the sub floor with it. Cool stuff!
2 things here, this would be great for large areas, that will save so much time doing a 100+ mtr floor. second is you should always Prime every surface
I think there may be a crucial step missing. After reading some comments, I noticed a complaint about the membrane peeling off over time. It would be helpful to provide instructions on properly preparing the subfloor, cleaning the surface, and applying primer. This process may seem easy to those unfamiliar with it, but it requires attention to detail and should not be taken lightly.
Sheets are definitely better in that application
Bro. You are super short. Never noticed that before you standing next to that vanity.
Man that stuff looks like it’s being a pain in the a$$ 😂
Is this a how not to install video.
Hi,have you ever demolished tiles installed on Ditra?
I demolished many and Ditra is the worse product ever.
Will never used it in my life.
Currently doing my two bathrooms in my house and using the green Mapei and it works amazing.
Try to remove tiles from Mapei mat and compare it to Ditra.
Tiles come of Ditra like they are just sitting with no mud .
It is a horrible oroduct.
Had to stop at the seven-minute 44-second mark, first glance not impressed with Detra product, second and not to tell you your job cuz you're really intelligent at it, maybe put some guidelines down. Then when you're happy with the placement of the product peel off the cling free. I will carry on let's see what you say about the product
😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬
I can promise you that plastic isnt recyclable