I have been reloading over 50 years and over that long, one can get sloppy. Your video concisely covers the basics and after watching it my completed rounds look better then they have in years. Thank you.
RCBS doesn’t even have a video this good! Thank you very much! After spending several hours and crushing a couple cases, this video is exactly what I needed to see 👍
Videos are full of information and are very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to carefully and thoroughly explain everything! Helps everyone especially newer reloaders like me get started and potentially pass it on to next generations! I will definitely recommend your videos to anyone and everyone! Thanks again until the next video!
When it comes to pistol like 9mm i dont think it gets any better than RCBS dies! Ive loaded thousands of 9mm using mixed brass and never had a single issue seating & crimping at the same time! RCBS TC seating die is the best damn die ever! And their expanding and sizing dies! Blows my mind how many crimp in a separate step 😂 especially when they have a seating die that taper crimps
@Mav8887. - it appears that most folks have their “go to” for equipment. My father-in-law is a highly devoted Lee man. I started using RCBS from the get go and haven’t looked back. In the world of reloading there are two types of people. Seat then crimp in two different steps and seat/crimp in the same step. Hard to convince either that the other is better. 😂👍🏻
Thank you very much for your time and efforts to educate folks on this work of art. I enjoyed seeing your RCBS equipment, I have a Rock Chucker also, mostly did 30-06 and 30-30 back in the 90's. But now I have purchased my first pistol, Sig P320 9mm full and I ordered the die set. Oddly enough, it didn't come with an expander die. I suppose I'll be needing that one. 🎉I would like to ask a few things; 1. What type powder do you use or recommend?, that is great for the 115g 9mm luger, which I'd basically be using for target practice. 2. The micrometer reading of 1100 overall length of the round, does that apply even if I use a 125g to 137g etc..? 3- Is crimping necessary? I ask this in particular bcuz I've inspected 9mm ammo and I can't say I've seen any crimping on over the counter sold ammo. What say ye..
JP - the answers to all of your questions can be found in any reloading manual. I’ll give you my opinion on them as well but will refer you to your reloading manual for liability reasons. Powders - there are many. Power pistol, unique, tite group are a few that I use. The measurement is a standard COAL for the 9mm. Crimping is a hot topic for reloaders. You’ll have some folks say no way, others that live by it, and some only use it on certain types of projectiles. I always do a light crimp. The main reason for me doing this is to avoid projectile movement from being handled and to avoid ramp feed issues when shooting. I’ll for sure get someone to comment that it’s not necessary but for me it’s a piece of mind and my comfort level. I’ve had zero issues with a light crimp and will continue to do it until I have a reason not to. Hope this helps! Happy to answer anymore questions that you may have! Cheers! 👍🏻
...just bought an old (steel) dedicated .357 magnum dies at the Vero Beach, FL show yesterday I really don;t want to have to readjust a 38/357 die for each caliber...I want to set it up once and be done...20 years ago I had a wholr collection of these steel (non carbide dies but lost them all after my stroke in 2002...
Sorry you to hear you went through that medical issue. Buying a second die, like you did, is a great option for set and forget it. Hope your health continues to improve! 👍🏻
...I'm using the 'new' Lee breech lock bushings - figger that if the dies index off of the ram then they should all be transferable between presses (Rockchucker & Lee Pro 4000) although I'd make a check to confirm it before loading - I'm figgering on setting the dies up on the Rockchucker and trying different powder weights/bullet weights (just bought a Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper to facilitate the job before running more than ten rounds of each (need to decide if the load is worth keeping (accuracy/function) before proceeding- I started loading in 1974 after I came home from tre better part of three years with the Army in Germany (where I bought the Rockchucker through the post Rod & Gun club- loaded mostly 45 acp & 9mm since that time - this'll be my first shot at .38/.357......@@k2defense
Great story! Good luck with 357/38! Thanks for sharing! Love hearing the history of how folks have gotten into reloading and their trials, tribulations, and successes. Appreciate the comments! 👍🏻
Great video, thanks. I'm very experienced reloading rifle rounds and have loaded thousands of pistol rounds but have always struggled to understand how the crimp works on 9mm or 556 for example. If I set the seat plug so it seats the bullet to the desired length, why would I change that to effect crimp (If for some reason I decided to crimp)I've always just set it to seat to the desired OAL and been done. I'm struggling to understand the relationship between seating and crimping, thanks!
@benslack7975 - great question. The die itself provides the crimp. In order to apply the crimp, you need to lower the die (with the seater plug up) until you get the crimp you want. Then, set the locking ring, dial down the seater plug, set the locking nut, and there you go. Hope that explains it! 👍🏻
Tell me about your spent primer discard system with the tubing. I have RCBS and the spent primer discharge is a mess. Do a video on your modification. Great job
@jofrankl - I’d love to take credit for the primer catch. In Line Fabrication makes them. Here is the website: inlinefabrication.com/collections/rcbs/products/3d-printed-improved-primer-catch-for-rcbs-rockchucker-supreme Tell Dan that I sent you! He and his team make awesome add ons for reloading equipment. They also have a YT channel @inlinefabrication Hope this helps! 👍🏻
When you set the sizing die….did you run the ram all the way through the “cam over” or did you just get to that point before it cams over and hold it there while running the die to the shell holder?
@caseyberning7789 - you do not “cam over” with carbide dies only steel dies (typically for bottle neck cases). With carbide dies, you’ll run the ram and case holder up to the top of the stroke. Then screw the die down until it touches the case holder. Back it off a quarter turn. Set your locking nut. You’re ready to roll. If you’re using steel dies and want a cam over, run the ram and case holder all the way up to the top of the stroke. Screw in your die until it touches the case holder. Lower the ram a bit, screw down your die a quarter turn. Run the ram up and see if you can feel the cam over, if not repeat this step. Once you get it to where you want it, lock the locking nut and you’re ready to roll. Does this answer your question?
I’m running those same dies in a hornady LNL progressive press. Should I put the expander DIE before or after the powder station? As the case push the powder system to let it drop the load, I’m concearned about the fact that an already expanded case will work OK. I’m also concearned about risk of adding the powder and then expand the case with the load inside. Thanks in advance!
@@k2defense Thank you very much for answering! I’ve made some test this afternoon and if I follow your vídeo I’ve to scroll a lot my dies. For example, the deprimer and resizer die I had to scroll it until the die screw is nearly the end and I’m able to scroll the retainer bold bur for very very very short inches. Is this normal as I’m running RCBS dies in a hornady press or I’m doing somerhing wrong? Thank you very much in advance
@@k2defense Hi! Sorry I’ve been outside my country for a week with no access to the press 😂. I have seen your video few more times and finally been able to set my dies correctly. I’ve made my first 20 rounds and this afternoon will test then to the range. So Thank you very much for your help and videos. Just quick thing, you’ve set the lenght of the bullet in 1.1 inches. Is this the standarts and all bullets must be this size? In my reloading table, Vitah, the máximum COL for a 124Grs FMJ Point and 3N38 is 1.142 inches. I’ve set the dies in order that my COL is 1.140, to keep a bit under the Max COL. I’ve also seen that some bullets size is 1.140 but few are 1.141 and 1.139. Maybe die adjustment is not correct?
When do you know that you need to resize your brass? Am I correct that new brass won't be resized (I know, certainly not deprimed!). Thanks for the great video. About to load my first rounds and you've really helped me in my quest to have all my ducks in a row!
Hello @chadhelmer3835! When I acquire new/used brass, I like to resize as I have my die set up for my chamber. Some people only neck size once the fire a cartridge in their firearm. Some folks full length, and the AR folks small base size. So to finally answer your question, you’ll find what works best for you through trial and error. I resize and deprime all of my brass after each time I fire. Hope this helps, happy to answer any addition questions!
After each time a round is fired the brass needs to be resized. After resizing shouldered (as opposed to straight walled) rifle brass you should check the brass length as it will typically get a little longer each time it is shot and resized. Also, brass work hardens and becomes brittle, this means each time it is shot and resized it takes more force each time to resize it with an increased chance of splitting or cracking. To counter this some reloaders will only reload brass a certain number of times (5-10) and others will heat treat the case neck and shoulder. This heat treating is known as annealing. Lots of equipment and videos about annealing.
Dixon Bainbridge - if you use “locking rings” you can set them and forget them. If you don’t, you’ll need to do this process each time you reload. The type of locking ring I use is in this video. I probably should have been more descriptive about this process. I’ll be sure to do it in future videos. Thanks for the question! 👍🏻
@@k2defense Awesome thanks, I am thinking about getting this Supreme Rock Chucker. In Australia we pay many times the price you get them for in USA. All I reload is 9mm, .38, and .357. Do you think this model would be suitable for this, or should I be looking at something else for only straight pistol ammo?
@@dixonbainbridge3146 that is perfect for what you want to do. There are less expensive presses. However, my RC supreme hasn’t let me down in nearly two decades. If you look at used prices of presses, they’re almost the same price as new. This is because they last for a lifetime. Some more than others. If you’re really serious about reloading, invest the money and don’t look back. Thanks for the question! 👍🏻
Hi I have RCBS 20515 and wont to reload 9x19mm but firs two dies working perfect but the sid ...something get wrong... because crimp the bullet before than bullet seat in correctly and seader unit is not correct size (look to me) Can you explain better this part
The concept is the exact same. Dial down the expander plug until you can just “snap” in the projectile. You may go through a couple of shells to dial it in. Let me know if you still need help. 👍🏻
Hello @tandtoutdoors5154! Most kits will come with round and flat nose bullet seater plugs. If you don’t have both, you can go to your manufactures website and order the one you need. Hope that answers your question!
I have a couple of questions. First, I bought someone's used RCBS die set for .357 Magnum/.38 Special, but the lock down nuts are simple circular shapes with knurling around the edges with an Allen head screw through them, i.e., there's no flat surface on them to use a wrench on. Am I meant to use only finger pressure to tighten them down and then tighten the Allen head screw tight? Second: If I wanted to switch to the traditional shape nuts (that I can use a wrench on), is it a simple matter of ordering them from RCBS, i.e., will they fit my set? Thanks.
If I could make a recommendation for you it would be to invest in something like the Hornady locking rings. These little humdingers are awesome for setting and forgetting. amzn.to/4aFn9jM amzn.to/3HfJbvS Let me know how they work out for you. Holler back at me if you have any questions on how they work. 👍🏻
Hello Richie Apodaca. Thank you for the great question! I believe you’re asking about the “cam over” technique. For steel sizing does, yes. For carbide (like the ones in the video), no. Happy to answer any other questions you may have! -K2D
@@k2defense as I do reload for 223/5.56 and I do cam over using RCBS small base AR dies…which is a must…I recently got a 9mm..so I’m gonna load for that..after seeing a lot of videos on it…I see them doing the half turn to cam over
@@richieapodaca4100 straight wall case dies come in steel and carbide. Carbide dies should not be cammed over. Bottle neck dies are typically steel dies which should be cammed over. If you have carbide dies for your 9mm, you could potentially damage them if you cam over. Hope that helps! 👍🏻 -K2D
Straight wall brass does not stretch from resize. If anything it shrinks. The only reason to trim handgun brass would be the heavy hitters so you can have a uniform roll crimp. Do yourself a favor....quit using the treated corn cob media. That treated lyman polish leaves a residue on the brass. Add used bounce dryer sheets Buy Blasting media from Grainger 14/20 grit and get some Dillon Case Polish. When filling a vibratory polisher....fill it half full of brass. Then add your media till over 3/4's full. Do not over use media it is cheap that treated stuff attracts so much crud. Storing primers in an unmarked container is not a good idea. Especially not identified. I see Berry's bullets on the bench...they are not FMJ. but copper plated. Plated bullets use cast bullet load data. One must be careful and not over crimp. Over crimping plated or coated bullets can strip the plating/coating off and lead to leading of the barrel. One should always caution when reloading to know that what type of barrel you are reloading for conventional rifling or polygonal (Gen 1-4 Glocks and HK's come to mind). Lead and coated lead bullets generally are not recommended for polygonal bbls.
Hey new reloaders and reloader wannabes, some more tips from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is almost everything I know. If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice. If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, shell holders, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of 1.5 hours for a hundred rounds for a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes cleaning, drying, set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them. Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. Notice the light K2 has here. And a solid looking bench. Nice. ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals. There is a case length specification, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length. Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that. Clean up your equipment, dies, scale, caliper and bench when done. Then toss out the trash. Some of us deprime before cleaning, it gives a clean primer pocket. ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry. Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round. Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money) NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured. ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both. Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out. Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin') Many powder manufacturers list their loads online. Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem. Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes. Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefor crimp may vary. This can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets. A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out. 380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently. 38 special can be reloaded with 357 magnum dies.
@@k2defense We see video's of people that reload and have never read the first chapters of the manual. Reloading rifle brass without even checking the case length, other videos saying reloading is cheap and easy, reloading benches that flex, people handling things like they are non hazardous, not checking scale calibration. You obviously have respect for the craft. I would send people to this video.
@brink666 - yeah someone else was poking fun at me as well. 3/16” is in the instructions. You are correct. Truth be told, I don’t measure it when I set my die. I set the die then screw in the decapping rod until the primer pops out. I do this because I noticed when I set it at 3/16” some primers wouldn’t come out and I had to screw the decapping rod down further. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
@@k2defense no worries my man, I'm learning alot from you. In my work I would be looking for a new job if I said that lol it was just funny to hear. And you are the 3rd person that's said inches in 10ths for reloading I've found this month! (I'm getting back into it and need ALOT of help) Keep doing what you doing!
Thanks!
@Cherryjonva - thank you for the “Super Thanks” really appreciate it! Hope this video was helpful! 👍🏻
I have been reloading over 50 years and over that long, one can get sloppy. Your video concisely covers the basics and after watching it my completed rounds look better then they have in years. Thank you.
Matt Scoble - appreciate your awesome feedback! Glad you enjoyed! 👍🏻
This is the most concise and easy to follow video on TH-cam I've seen on the subject. Thank you!
Legitpenguins69 - thanks for the positive feed back! I’ve pinned your comment! 👍🏻
RCBS doesn’t even have a video this good! Thank you very much! After spending several hours and crushing a couple cases, this video is exactly what I needed to see 👍
John Smolik - thank you for the positive feedback!
-K2D
Ditto
Short and to the point - great information - well done, Thank you
Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Very informative video. And thank you for NO weird music nonsense.
@Matt-y8x - thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
I am grateful for your help and time. This is a very concise and well-done video. Thank you.
@Cherryjonva - really appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Videos are full of information and are very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to carefully and thoroughly explain everything! Helps everyone especially newer reloaders like me get started and potentially pass it on to next generations! I will definitely recommend your videos to anyone and everyone! Thanks again until the next video!
Glad you found this video helpful! Cheers! 👍🏻
This is the best video I have seen to learn how to perfectly adjust your carbide die set properly.
When it comes to pistol like 9mm i dont think it gets any better than RCBS dies! Ive loaded thousands of 9mm using mixed brass and never had a single issue seating & crimping at the same time! RCBS TC seating die is the best damn die ever! And their expanding and sizing dies! Blows my mind how many crimp in a separate step 😂 especially when they have a seating die that taper crimps
@Mav8887. - it appears that most folks have their “go to” for equipment. My father-in-law is a highly devoted Lee man. I started using RCBS from the get go and haven’t looked back.
In the world of reloading there are two types of people. Seat then crimp in two different steps and seat/crimp in the same step. Hard to convince either that the other is better. 😂👍🏻
K2 Defense : THANK YOU SIR FOR SHARING YOUR TALLANT HERE . BEST BLESSINGS .
Hello weechitamex! Thank you for the positive feedback! More vids coming soon!
i have been loading for years love learning to loading pistol cartridges thank you .
Your videos are excellent, very easy to follow what you are doing step by step👍👍
Thanks Dave! 👍🏻
This video is through start to finish. thanks
Hello @billprice6248!
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Appreciate the tutorial. Is it the same for RCBS Carbide 45acp dies? Ive always used Lyman stuff before but this time have RCBS.
@MrRmg3481 - yes! Same set up for all straight wall cases. Let me know if you run into any issues. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Appreciate the help. Thank you very much.
Thanks for this video. Going to use it to make my first hand loaded rounds.
Awesome!!! 👍🏻
Thank you very much for your time and efforts to educate folks on this work of art. I enjoyed seeing your RCBS equipment, I have a Rock Chucker also, mostly did 30-06 and 30-30 back in the 90's. But now I have purchased my first pistol, Sig P320 9mm full and I ordered the die set. Oddly enough, it didn't come with an expander die. I suppose I'll be needing that one.
🎉I would like to ask a few things;
1. What type powder do you use or recommend?, that is great for the 115g 9mm luger, which I'd basically be using for target practice. 2. The micrometer reading of 1100 overall length of the round, does that apply even if I use a 125g to 137g etc..? 3- Is crimping necessary? I ask this in particular bcuz I've inspected 9mm ammo and I can't say I've seen any crimping on over the counter sold ammo. What say ye..
JP - the answers to all of your questions can be found in any reloading manual. I’ll give you my opinion on them as well but will refer you to your reloading manual for liability reasons. Powders - there are many. Power pistol, unique, tite group are a few that I use. The measurement is a standard COAL for the 9mm. Crimping is a hot topic for reloaders. You’ll have some folks say no way, others that live by it, and some only use it on certain types of projectiles. I always do a light crimp. The main reason for me doing this is to avoid projectile movement from being handled and to avoid ramp feed issues when shooting. I’ll for sure get someone to comment that it’s not necessary but for me it’s a piece of mind and my comfort level. I’ve had zero issues with a light crimp and will continue to do it until I have a reason not to. Hope this helps! Happy to answer anymore questions that you may have! Cheers! 👍🏻
...just bought an old (steel) dedicated .357 magnum dies at the Vero Beach, FL show yesterday I really don;t want to have to readjust a 38/357 die for each caliber...I want to set it up once and be done...20 years ago I had a wholr collection of these steel (non carbide dies but lost them all after my stroke in 2002...
Sorry you to hear you went through that medical issue. Buying a second die, like you did, is a great option for set and forget it. Hope your health continues to improve! 👍🏻
...I'm using the 'new' Lee breech lock bushings - figger that if the dies index off of the ram then they should all be transferable between presses (Rockchucker & Lee Pro 4000) although I'd make a check to confirm it before loading - I'm figgering on setting the dies up on the Rockchucker and trying different powder weights/bullet weights (just bought a Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper to facilitate the job before running more than ten rounds of each (need to decide if the load is worth keeping (accuracy/function) before proceeding- I started loading in 1974 after I came home from tre better part of three years with the Army in Germany (where I bought the Rockchucker through the post Rod & Gun club- loaded mostly 45 acp & 9mm since that time - this'll be my first shot at .38/.357......@@k2defense
Great story! Good luck with 357/38! Thanks for sharing! Love hearing the history of how folks have gotten into reloading and their trials, tribulations, and successes. Appreciate the comments! 👍🏻
Good Video... Thank you..
Appreciate the comment Bruce! 👍🏻
Great video, thanks!
Great video, thanks.
I'm very experienced reloading rifle rounds and have loaded thousands of pistol rounds but have always struggled to understand how the crimp works on 9mm or 556 for example. If I set the seat plug so it seats the bullet to the desired length, why would I change that to effect crimp (If for some reason I decided to crimp)I've always just set it to seat to the desired OAL and been done. I'm struggling to understand the relationship between seating and crimping, thanks!
@benslack7975 - great question. The die itself provides the crimp. In order to apply the crimp, you need to lower the die (with the seater plug up) until you get the crimp you want. Then, set the locking ring, dial down the seater plug, set the locking nut, and there you go. Hope that explains it! 👍🏻
Tell me about your spent primer discard system with the tubing. I have RCBS and the spent primer discharge is a mess. Do a video on your modification. Great job
@jofrankl - I’d love to take credit for the primer catch. In Line Fabrication makes them. Here is the website: inlinefabrication.com/collections/rcbs/products/3d-printed-improved-primer-catch-for-rcbs-rockchucker-supreme
Tell Dan that I sent you! He and his team make awesome add ons for reloading equipment. They also have a YT channel @inlinefabrication
Hope this helps! 👍🏻
Good video, thanks!
Great tutorial!
Can you provide a link for the exact gloves you wear? Thanks!
@Flipper2012 - here you go! 👍🏻
amzn.to/3xvIMnv
When you set the sizing die….did you run the ram all the way through the “cam over” or did you just get to that point before it cams over and hold it there while running the die to the shell holder?
@caseyberning7789 - you do not “cam over” with carbide dies only steel dies (typically for bottle neck cases). With carbide dies, you’ll run the ram and case holder up to the top of the stroke. Then screw the die down until it touches the case holder. Back it off a quarter turn. Set your locking nut. You’re ready to roll. If you’re using steel dies and want a cam over, run the ram and case holder all the way up to the top of the stroke. Screw in your die until it touches the case holder. Lower the ram a bit, screw down your die a quarter turn. Run the ram up and see if you can feel the cam over, if not repeat this step. Once you get it to where you want it, lock the locking nut and you’re ready to roll. Does this answer your question?
@@k2defense Yes it does. Thank you very much for explaining it more!
good work
I’m running those same dies in a hornady LNL progressive press.
Should I put the expander DIE before or after the powder station? As the case push the powder system to let it drop the load, I’m concearned about the fact that an already expanded case will work OK. I’m also concearned about risk of adding the powder and then expand the case with the load inside.
Thanks in advance!
Expand the case, then add the powder. 👍🏻 hope this helps!
@@k2defense Thank you very much for answering! I’ve made some test this afternoon and if I follow your vídeo I’ve to scroll a lot my dies. For example, the deprimer and resizer die I had to scroll it until the die screw is nearly the end and I’m able to scroll the retainer bold bur for very very very short inches.
Is this normal as I’m running RCBS dies in a hornady press or I’m doing somerhing wrong?
Thank you very much in advance
@@Tex-cf2zl email me your contact info. I want to make sure I understand your question so I can help you figure this out. K2defensemn@gmail.com 👍🏻
@@k2defense Hi! Sorry I’ve been outside my country for a week with no access to the press 😂.
I have seen your video few more times and finally been able to set my dies correctly. I’ve made my first 20 rounds and this afternoon will test then to the range.
So Thank you very much for your help and videos.
Just quick thing, you’ve set the lenght of the bullet in 1.1 inches. Is this the standarts and all bullets must be this size? In my reloading table, Vitah, the máximum COL for a 124Grs FMJ Point and 3N38 is 1.142 inches.
I’ve set the dies in order that my COL is 1.140, to keep a bit under the Max COL. I’ve also seen that some bullets size is 1.140 but few are 1.141 and 1.139. Maybe die adjustment is not correct?
When do you know that you need to resize your brass? Am I correct that new brass won't be resized (I know, certainly not deprimed!). Thanks for the great video. About to load my first rounds and you've really helped me in my quest to have all my ducks in a row!
Hello @chadhelmer3835!
When I acquire new/used brass, I like to resize as I have my die set up for my chamber. Some people only neck size once the fire a cartridge in their firearm. Some folks full length, and the AR folks small base size. So to finally answer your question, you’ll find what works best for you through trial and error. I resize and deprime all of my brass after each time I fire. Hope this helps, happy to answer any addition questions!
After each time a round is fired the brass needs to be resized. After resizing shouldered (as opposed to straight walled) rifle brass you should check the brass length as it will typically get a little longer each time it is shot and resized.
Also, brass work hardens and becomes brittle, this means each time it is shot and resized it takes more force each time to resize it with an increased chance of splitting or cracking. To counter this some reloaders will only reload brass a certain number of times (5-10) and others will heat treat the case neck and shoulder. This heat treating is known as annealing. Lots of equipment and videos about annealing.
@@phild8095 - another solid comment from Phil!!! Perfectly stated! This man knows his stuff! 👍🏻
Is this set up process something you only need to do once when you first get the die? Or do you have to do this every time you set-up to reload?
Dixon Bainbridge - if you use “locking rings” you can set them and forget them. If you don’t, you’ll need to do this process each time you reload. The type of locking ring I use is in this video. I probably should have been more descriptive about this process. I’ll be sure to do it in future videos. Thanks for the question! 👍🏻
@@k2defense Awesome thanks, I am thinking about getting this Supreme Rock Chucker. In Australia we pay many times the price you get them for in USA. All I reload is 9mm, .38, and .357. Do you think this model would be suitable for this, or should I be looking at something else for only straight pistol ammo?
@@dixonbainbridge3146 that is perfect for what you want to do. There are less expensive presses. However, my RC supreme hasn’t let me down in nearly two decades. If you look at used prices of presses, they’re almost the same price as new. This is because they last for a lifetime. Some more than others. If you’re really serious about reloading, invest the money and don’t look back. Thanks for the question! 👍🏻
Hi I have RCBS 20515 and wont to reload 9x19mm but firs two dies working perfect but the sid ...something get wrong... because crimp the bullet before than bullet seat in correctly and seader unit is not correct size (look to me) Can you explain better this part
Hello E B,
Would you like me to do a review on the bullet seating/crimp die for you?
-K2D
@@k2defense will be nice from you
@@098klick I'll be posting the video on Wednesday! Hope you find it helpful!
I’ve a small problem, I use revolvers 38-357, flaring for the 357 is different but how much different. Help me a little bit.
The concept is the exact same. Dial down the expander plug until you can just “snap” in the projectile. You may go through a couple of shells to dial it in. Let me know if you still need help. 👍🏻
Is there a different ram for a hollow point bullets for the seating die?
Hello @tandtoutdoors5154!
Most kits will come with round and flat nose bullet seater plugs. If you don’t have both, you can go to your manufactures website and order the one you need. Hope that answers your question!
I explain the bullet seater crimp die in more detail in this video. th-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/w-d-xo.html
I have a couple of questions. First, I bought someone's used RCBS die set for .357 Magnum/.38 Special, but the lock down nuts are simple circular shapes with knurling around the edges with an Allen head screw through them, i.e., there's no flat surface on them to use a wrench on. Am I meant to use only finger pressure to tighten them down and then tighten the Allen head screw tight? Second: If I wanted to switch to the traditional shape nuts (that I can use a wrench on), is it a simple matter of ordering them from RCBS, i.e., will they fit my set? Thanks.
If I could make a recommendation for you it would be to invest in something like the Hornady locking rings. These little humdingers are awesome for setting and forgetting.
amzn.to/4aFn9jM
amzn.to/3HfJbvS
Let me know how they work out for you. Holler back at me if you have any questions on how they work. 👍🏻
@@k2defense Thanks. Order placed.
Don’t you need to do a half turn down on the resizing die
Hello Richie Apodaca. Thank you for the great question! I believe you’re asking about the “cam over” technique. For steel sizing does, yes. For carbide (like the ones in the video), no.
Happy to answer any other questions you may have!
-K2D
@@k2defense as I do reload for 223/5.56 and I do cam over using RCBS small base AR dies…which is a must…I recently got a 9mm..so I’m gonna load for that..after seeing a lot of videos on it…I see them doing the half turn to cam over
@@richieapodaca4100 straight wall case dies come in steel and carbide. Carbide dies should not be cammed over. Bottle neck dies are typically steel dies which should be cammed over. If you have carbide dies for your 9mm, you could potentially damage them if you cam over.
Hope that helps! 👍🏻
-K2D
I"ve been using carbide dies for 1000's of rounds and I use 1/8 turn down. The shell holder hits the die, seems like that should be enough.
Straight wall brass does not stretch from resize. If anything it shrinks. The only reason to trim handgun brass would be the heavy hitters so you can have a uniform roll crimp. Do yourself a favor....quit using the treated corn cob media. That treated lyman polish leaves a residue on the brass. Add used bounce dryer sheets Buy Blasting media from Grainger 14/20 grit and get some Dillon Case Polish. When filling a vibratory polisher....fill it half full of brass. Then add your media till over 3/4's full. Do not over use media it is cheap that treated stuff attracts so much crud.
Storing primers in an unmarked container is not a good idea. Especially not identified.
I see Berry's bullets on the bench...they are not FMJ. but copper plated. Plated bullets use cast bullet load data. One must be careful and not over crimp. Over crimping plated or coated bullets can strip the plating/coating off and lead to leading of the barrel.
One should always caution when reloading to know that what type of barrel you are reloading for conventional rifling or polygonal (Gen 1-4 Glocks and HK's come to mind). Lead and coated lead bullets generally are not recommended for polygonal bbls.
Hello John E! I bought some corn blasting media from Hom Depot. Going to give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the comments!
you must have changed those locking nuts that have side screws. RCBS Dies don't come like that
WV591 - Hornady locking rings. It’s the first thing I do when I buy new dies. They’re set and forget. 👍🏻
Hey new reloaders and reloader wannabes, some more tips from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is almost everything I know.
If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice.
If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, shell holders, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of 1.5 hours for a hundred rounds for a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes cleaning, drying, set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench.
Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them.
Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. Notice the light K2 has here. And a solid looking bench. Nice.
ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals.
There is a case length specification, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down.
ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length.
Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal.
There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded.
There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that.
Clean up your equipment, dies, scale, caliper and bench when done. Then toss out the trash.
Some of us deprime before cleaning, it gives a clean primer pocket.
ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry.
Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round.
Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money)
NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured.
ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both.
Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry.
If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out.
Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin')
Many powder manufacturers list their loads online.
Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem.
Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes.
Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefor crimp may vary. This can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets.
A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out.
380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently.
38 special can be reloaded with 357 magnum dies.
Hello Phil D! Spoken like a true engineer! Appreciate the feedback and comments!
@@k2defense We see video's of people that reload and have never read the first chapters of the manual. Reloading rifle brass without even checking the case length, other videos saying reloading is cheap and easy, reloading benches that flex, people handling things like they are non hazardous, not checking scale calibration.
You obviously have respect for the craft. I would send people to this video.
Phil D - thank you for the positive feedback! Appreciate your support! 👍🏻
4/10ths of an inch? Come on. Its 3/16ths.
@brink666 - yeah someone else was poking fun at me as well. 3/16” is in the instructions. You are correct. Truth be told, I don’t measure it when I set my die. I set the die then screw in the decapping rod until the primer pops out. I do this because I noticed when I set it at 3/16” some primers wouldn’t come out and I had to screw the decapping rod down further. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
@@k2defense no worries my man, I'm learning alot from you. In my work I would be looking for a new job if I said that lol it was just funny to hear. And you are the 3rd person that's said inches in 10ths for reloading I've found this month! (I'm getting back into it and need ALOT of help)
Keep doing what you doing!
@brink666 - thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Great video--thank you!