Create a High-Strength Ultra-Light Concrete Bonsai Slab
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I guide you through my process to create a a high-strength ultra-light concrete bonsai slab using the materials that I provide in a kit for those interested in experimenting without the financial commitment to purchase all materials independently. However, all materials are available for those interested in obtaining them independently.
Concrete: 2L white portland cement, 2L Poraver (poraver.com) expanded glass microbeads (0.25 to 0.5mm), fibres.
Pigment: Any standard concrete powder pigment
Sealer: Behr low lustre concrete and tile sealer.
#Canadian #Bonsai #art #EvolutionBonsai - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![Creating a Landscape Container out of Concrete [Great for Penjing or bonsai forests]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kZerNDyzcm4/mqdefault.jpg)
A very nice detailed video, looking forward to seeing a tree in the pot!
Thank you Nigel! I think I know what tree will go in this pot - probably in late summer.
Great video! I love the colors.
Thank you!
Nice pot. Good explaining.👍
Glad you liked it
Really nice work this is what I've been looking for I would need to figure out how to put a drain hole I just figured it out crisis averted
Sometimes I put a little piece of wood dowel or when the person I am making the slab for asks, but for my own I generally don't drill drainage per se, I make sure that there is no surface concavity that would pool water and if there is, a simple tie down hole solves the issue. In general I will only drill tie down holes and this is sufficient and I do that at the time of repotting so that the tie down positions are tailored for the root system I am planting.
Excelente trabajo Maestro 👍🏽
Gracias!
Good idea mate!
Thank you!
Great.
Thank you!
Nice work 👍
Thank you!
The original cement pot I made from your instructions last year is holding up very well. Nice execution Rafi!
That is great to hear Jonathan!
@@rafi_N Say Rafael did you see Rayan Niels pruning a Dawn redwood episode? I need to do mine and do not know where to start. Do you have a link on that video you can pass on to me by chance? Thanks
@@jonathanaristone2468 I don't own any Dawn redwood but here is what I learned from Mirai: Dawn redwood has compound leaves growing in a opposite pattern. When a piece of growth ramifies and the central stem is reddish, you can prune either to keep a staggering pattern or you can prune the tip to stop the continuation of elongation. If you prune a compound leaf without ramification, you will not have adventitious buds develop because it is a weak piece of growth. So those you leave alone and with the pruning of the strong parts to equalize foliage density across the tree and give more light to the weaker areas you will get those to develop. In strong areas you can remove crotch growth as part of the process to generate equal balance of foliage or cut back to existing growth. Any piece of foliage even with ramification but that has a green stem you should leave alone until the stem turns red before pruning. Now is not the time though for styling or wiring and the removal of branches. Let the tree recover the energy spent in flushing and style next spring. Any branches that are still in development you don't touch it. Keep the strength in the weak areas. Here is the link to the Mirai Dawn redwood post-flush harden pruning from this week but you have to be a member to be able to watch: live.bonsaimirai.com/library/video/dawn-redwood-post-flush-harden-prune
@@rafi_N Thanks Rafi much appreciated
@@jonathanaristone2468 my pleasure.
Interesting construction. 2 questions 1) is there a need to eventually reapply sealer or is it good for life and 2) is there no need for drainage holes in such a pot construction. Cheers, the video production details are getting nice I noticed too
thanks Chris, I never reapplied sealer yet to any pots but I use 2 different kinds of sealers and only recently (since february) have I started used this one from Behr - a tree in it is quite happy. The other pots are all sealed with a sealer from Interstar.ca and there are trees in them for 2 years already. Depending on the angle I will use the pot I may not need drainage because water will never pool in it but for the other angle, I will need to drill drainage. Since I will have to drill anyhow for tie downs, I will then drill for drainage if necessary - or the drainage provided by the tie down holes may be all that is needed.
How do we order this kit? Also can we put several mesh together to make a larger slab?
Did I understand correctly that for the second layer it's necessary that the first layer be completely dry? Or should apply it while it's still slightly damp on top?
It doesn't really matter. If it is not dry though there is a risk of something breaking as you apply force while spreading the second layer. I wait until it is dry between 6 and 12h.
Hi Mirai friend! Do you think this is the same mix that yan culek used for his slabs? I’ve been trying to figure out what he uses!
Hi, most definitely not the same. He uses something that includes epoxy or something similar. I would also love to know what he uses. :)
@@rafi_N thanks Rafi, I notice when Ryan drills into it is doesn’t make partials that look like a cement base. I thought perhaps it was air Crete with epoxy but not sure! I will find out though I promise!
@@paulkendeffy8893 If and when you find out, please share with me!
Hi, is anyone know where to buy Poraver in UK?
You'll have to import it from Germany.
No drain holes?
I drill them each time at the time of planting to place them at the ideal places for the specific tree.
What store can I buy micro bits
It is not sold in stores but you can buy directly from the company that produces it called Poraver.
Can I buy glass micro bits
yes it is possible. It is from a company called Poraver.