I just settled with the sega saturn version. Have the mvs of 3 and the aes of 4. Just need x and ill be fine. Good video. I dont do conversions but I know how rare the original is.
Im sure this has been asked before so I'm sorry if I'm repeating the question. What is an MVS Convert and why are they so cheap? I have one of the original AES systems from 91 and I'm hesitant to by any MVS Convert. Will they work with my AES? What are the drawbacks vs paying through the nose for an original AES Cart? So far I've only purchased original AES games but now they are getting too expensive!
Conversion carts are basically bootlegs. They steal the chips off a cheaper mvs cartridge and solder them onto a blank aes circuit board. They will work fine on your aes. Hard core collectors frown on them because you basically are destroying a game to make a game.
Chang job detected on board 2. Being said, Im tempted on ROM or EPROM converts but I want to avoid like the plague FLASH based carts (like the 161in1 etc)
CHA256 is the same whether it is version B or version RY. PROGTOP would've been better suited to an EPROM split instead of wasting original mask ROMs on this hack. Those two boards don't garrantee it came from Samurai Shodown 2, other games used that combo, and that game didn't always have a PROG TOP in it.
I even made an “imperfect replica” of the Metal Slug Original insert right here: www.deviantart.com/gecko1993/art/Metal-Slug-Insert-540252996! I’m surprised bootleggers aren’t properly using that. One thing you forgot to mention in part 1: to tell if a manual is legit or not is to look for the Orange Epilepsy Warnings (English at the beginning, Spanish on Page 2, French on the third-to-last page, and Japanese on the second-to-last page of the manual). Feel free to take a look at my insert, and probably inspect it in Part 3. I did the best I could to get it as close to the real deal as I can. The label this time (for English anyway) looks good, and despite the soldering for the chips on one board, it’s okay. It’s just freaking Metal Slug!
I just settled with the sega saturn version. Have the mvs of 3 and the aes of 4. Just need x and ill be fine. Good video. I dont do conversions but I know how rare the original is.
Curious how the Sega Saturn version matches up to the original? Is it a spot on port? Thanks for watching
DEFINITELY A WORTHY💪CONVERSION OF METAL SLUG & CLEARLY WORTH THE PRICE TO HAVE IN ANY COLLECTION👍😁😎
JASON SQUIRE thanks! I wish it was the real version but as close as I can get!
ME TOO I'LL BE HAPPY WITH A CONVERSION OF THE 1ST METAL SLUG, I'LL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO HAVE IT FOR SURE👍😎
Im sure this has been asked before so I'm sorry if I'm repeating the question. What is an MVS Convert and why are they so cheap? I have one of the original AES systems from 91 and I'm hesitant to by any MVS Convert. Will they work with my AES? What are the drawbacks vs paying through the nose for an original AES Cart? So far I've only purchased original AES games but now they are getting too expensive!
Conversion carts are basically bootlegs. They steal the chips off a cheaper mvs cartridge and solder them onto a blank aes circuit board. They will work fine on your aes. Hard core collectors frown on them because you basically are destroying a game to make a game.
Chang job detected on board 2.
Being said, Im tempted on ROM or EPROM converts but I want to avoid like the plague FLASH based carts (like the 161in1 etc)
CHA256 is the same whether it is version B or version RY.
PROGTOP would've been better suited to an EPROM split instead of wasting original mask ROMs on this hack.
Those two boards don't garrantee it came from Samurai Shodown 2, other games used that combo, and that game didn't always have a PROG TOP in it.
Conversions are the original game at 100% no in-game differences?
I even made an “imperfect replica” of the Metal Slug Original insert right here: www.deviantart.com/gecko1993/art/Metal-Slug-Insert-540252996!
I’m surprised bootleggers aren’t properly using that. One thing you forgot to mention in part 1: to tell if a manual is legit or not is to look for the Orange Epilepsy Warnings (English at the beginning, Spanish on Page 2, French on the third-to-last page, and Japanese on the second-to-last page of the manual).
Feel free to take a look at my insert, and probably inspect it in Part 3. I did the best I could to get it as close to the real deal as I can. The label this time (for English anyway) looks good, and despite the soldering for the chips on one board, it’s okay. It’s just freaking Metal Slug!
Wear can I buy a legitimate Neo-Geo AES Metal Slug conversation!?
Depends on your definition of legitimate. Check eBay!