Simply fantastic. Well thought out and executed! I have my 80 gallon compressor mounted on a rolling cart to help with vibration and to allow me to easily disconnect and wheel out from under the pallet racking for maintenance. You've inspired me to add onto the cart with a dryer/cooler like yours instead of the current intercooler I'm using. Bravo!!!
Thank you sir, I appreciate your comment. This really a great addition to any air compressor. I used this compressor for painting and plasma cutting. No moisture or oil in the compressed air. It also keeps the tank clean. Plus it will add little to the capacity of the tank. Be safe and have a great day
Just watched your whole video, I take my hat off to you sir. Just a beautiful well thought out design. Thank you for sharing you work and yourself to us all. Take care and again, beautifully done.
This is on a whole different level! Outstanding workmanship and design. I dont care if it works any better than anything else or not. It looks too cool not to have in your shop. Excellent work!
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words and nice comment. The air compressor and this added system actually works great. I have a video showing how I painted my dump truck using this air compressor which I showed in that video. The air was dry and the paint came out good.
Good afternoon sir, still working great. I used the system two weeks ago for painting. I appreciate your comment and support. Be safe and have a great day
Nice air compressor cooler and dryer you built. Earlier in your video you stated you may do a video on re-wiring that old motor with the bad start coil. I would like to see a video on that. I am really interested in motor re-wiring.
Thank you for the nice comment, I will post very detailed videos in the future about motor and transformers winding. This was one of the early jobs that I did. Thank you for watching and have a great day.
Very good craftsmanship. There is a "minor" detail within the scope of technicality outside of Paul's comment about building a "water separator" below. What I am referring to is Galvanic Reaction (Corrosion). What is dissimilar metal corrosion? Galvanic corrosion (dissimilar-metal corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially, when in contact with a different type of metal, and both metals are in an electrolyte such as water, Humidity and/or harsher environments (High Salt content of air near seas/oceans). Copper needs to be isolated from dissimilar metals using any number of isolating techniques. One of the fastest and easiest ways is to use a thin layer rubber tape around each pipe (in this case that would be a lot of labor) or attached to the support the copper is mounted to. In addition Copper pipe NEEDS copper straps, not steel emt straps. While your project will last a bit, it could last MUCH longer if properly isolated. I am not throwing stone just pointing out a design flaw that could be overcome easily, even AFTER final assembly by simply loosening the straps and sliding the isolator between the metals to be isolated. Same thing with Steel Straps. On another technical point, every hardware on this project will come loose due to vibration with no isolation Pads (Think Transformer Pad isolation) between the tank feet and the stand you built. All motor assemblies vibrate and need to use locking washers or nylon nuts to prevent this from happening. Self tapping screws will simply fall out over time. Adding Blue Locktite to your compression fittings will keep them from failing (coming loose) due to vibration. Overall this is a "Good" design and quality built by your hands. Understanding other dynamics involved would allow you to patent the design and actually SELL it. I did like your world class craftsmanship in the build. Very Well Done.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your detailed feedback. I am aware of the galvanic corrosion to steel pipe when used in junctions with copper pipe for water lines. However I don't have any galvanized steel pipe connected to copper pipe in my project. The galvanized frame I actually applied thin film of silver paint after I finished fabrication. I used this compressor for a year now and I have had no issues so far. It does an excellent job removing moisture from the compressed air. I have a video showing how I painted my dump truck using this compressor. you have a good point about the galvanized EMT straps. I will inspect them, if there is any sign of corrosion, I'll soak them in vinegar to remove the zinc and rust if any and paint them. I may also use thin rubber between the pipes and straps. Thank you
Galvanic corrosion does not affect compressed air lines. There is no need for a dielectric union when working with compressed air it’s not a water heater.
@@rotarycomptech Dr Technical wrong again. Any differential of metals causes this effect and while it may take a few years to actually see it, it still exists. Wise men have said it is better to be thought of as a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.
Yes sir, it works great. Compared to my other air compressor (without this upgrade), this compressed air cooler and dryer will keep water away from the tank. Not a single drop of water in the tank since I finished with this project. It should give me a great results when I use it to paint the dump truck. Thank you for watching.
Very nice build. A tad overkill but that never hurts. Run the drains into a common pipe with a catch bucket. That condensate water gets pretty ugly. 👍😎👌
LOL yep just 5min ago drained mine...cracking open valve with hose in a bucket. Suddenly it pops like it had a plug sprays a brown streak across my shirt and things nearby. UUGGH always something to clean
@@SalamSayhood thank you that collar on the 1/2 nut got me confused with flare. I thought I needed the flare. When I see your vdo gave me the confidence without the flare. I gotta learn how to solder using torch.
The total cost including the compressor, the new motor, all the pipes and all the other items were about $700 at the time of this project. I thought about making a list of the items, however I don't know what is available as far as material in every region of the world, so I thought to let the viewers pause the video and make their own modifications depending on the material available to them. This setup is compact and as one unit, you can modify it to fit your needs. If you watch the video, I explained each item and if everything is available in your area, just duplicate my setup. If you still want me to make a part list, I don't mind, but it may take time. Thank you for the nice comment. Be safe and have a great day
I am impressed with your workmanship. Great job. I am also building a 50’ 3/4” copper switchback cooler for my Quincy 54 compressor. I’m struggling on how to purge the air in the line between compressor and check valve. Any thoughts? Thanks, Paul
@@SalamSayhood I am talking about the unloader valve. Usually it goes between the compressor and tank. But with an aftercooler between compressor and tank, it needs to be moved. Placed between compressor and check valve before the cooler. This valve releases air in the line when the compressor shuts off. This makes it so when the motor starts up again, it’s doing so without the load caused by compressed air in line. I was wondering how you hooked that up.
I brazed 3/4" pipe to 1/2" NPT fitting to the cooler. Then I installed the unloader valve. I used 1/2" compression fitting and 3/8" type L copper pipe from the compressor to the valve. I covered this in detail in the video. If you have more questions please let me know.
@@SalamSayhood Thanks. I must have missed that part. I’ll go back and listen more carefully. My Quincy compressor has a copper tube going from the unloader tank the whole control unit. I’m thinking I need to disconnect that tube from the unloader and move the whole thing to a new position. Currently it’s located at the check valve as the air enters the tank. Not sure I can post photos here. But it must be hooked up somehow so it knows when the compressor shuts off. I’m a bit confused on how they work. Mechanical or electro-mechanical? How does the unloader valve know when to unload? Thanks
It's very simple design, basically, pressure valve when the tank reach full pressure, it will mechanically activate the electrical switch to disconnect the power and also activate a relief valve to release the compressed air from the pump to tank tube to release that pressure (when you hear the compressor small air leak after the tank reach full pressure) so the motor can start the pump on the next cycle. I explained all that in the video and I think I said it about three times. Please watch the video and note the time of the video that you have questions and let me know.
I rewinded DC motors, single/three phases AC motors, transformers and inductors for about 5 years. It was one of the earliest jobs that I have. I may show the process in the future. Thank you
I bought the compressor used and in pieces. The price was right 😆 I made the frame universal so I can replace the compressor in the future if I have to. So far it works great. Thank you
Why specifically mig inverter welder? I always just used the air compressor pump oil without any additive and so far no issues. I have another air compressor I bought new in 2001 and I replaced the oil for the pump a few times and just used the air compressor oil. Thank you for watching
I found liquid Molly ceratec friction reducer in the pump very good makes the oil last lots longer and easier start up and on long running times using air tools like die grinding belt sanding on older cars rust repairs and seem welding chassis on race cars the pump keeps up with me .. I need to add copper pipes like yours for water 💦 drain I have after cooler already on it but needs more I have 120 L tank and 3 horse motor vertical compressor like yours love watching your video your very talented I like your frame set up
I may give ceratec a try. I tried after cooler aluminum radiator in the past and was disappointed twice. The first time I thought it was my fault for buying a cheap one. The second one cost me about $156 and only lasted for 2 years with the original air filter. Make sure to upgrade the air filter to something like the one I built. Till this day, when I drain the moisture, the liquid comes clean and clear. My farm is far away from the house and sometimes I don't like to carry too much tools. I do have a MIG inverter welder at the house, carrying the cylinders and the welder is a task 😆 . You are right, welding thin metal with MIG or Flux Core is easier for me and the generator. I appreciate your support. Be safe and have a great day
At the time I built the setup: The compressor and all accessories cost me about $350 (please watch the first two videos in the air compressor project play list). Plus about $400 for the project (cooler and dryer). In my humble opinion this setup is way better than anything else to do the same thing. I use this setup weekly and I have no moisture in the compressed air or in the tank. Thank you for watching and for the comment and Merry Christmas
@@keithclark486 Right, but I wanted clarification. I personally would think CFM is more important than having the motor start easier. I guess it comes down to your needs and if the motor is running hot.
The higher the CFM the better as you can use the compressed air without waiting for the compressor to re charge. However, I am running this air compressor on my 5kva generator. Large pulley on the motor (higher CFM) will cause the generator to shutdown or the motor to over load or over heat quicker. Smaller pulley on the motor (less CFM) will allow the generator to run the compressor easier and the motor to run for longer periods of time. I actually had to install smaller pulley to get the compressor to run on my generator better. The CFM of my compressor is sufficient enough for me current needs.i hope this answered your question. Thank you for watching
I wouldn't act surprised that the feet are not aligned properly its a Chinese made consumer grade compressor not for commercial use its a small inconvenience if you just need it for home use if you use it commercially you need to look at something like Ingersoll rand or bell aire
Almost everything nowadays is made in China or other Asian countries. My total investment in this compressor is around $700, so far it has served me well. Thank you for the feedback,
Remember u are building a water separator NOT A DRYER . Dryer is used to remove 99.99999% moisture . A Dryer uses desiccant beads to absorb moisture . Order of assembly is water separator then .... oil mist /micron filter then.... dryer then..... pressure regulator .
Paul, every time I see these wildly ambitious tube setups I wonder whether a simple three-component filter/desiccant setup mounted 25 feet downstream of the compressor would perform even better at far less labor and materials cost. This compressor is also a modest one, and surely the maze of tubing causes a pressure drop. I will admit that the air filter setup on this rig is phenomenal overkill and would flow enough air for a 300-horse diesel.
My thoughts are to have the dryer between the pump and the tank to prevent moisture from entering the tank. Also the pipes will add to the setup capacity of holding compressed air. No pressure drop. I use this compressor in a dusty environment and the large air filter is a good choice to help the air to enter the pump without any restrictions. Thank you for watching.
@@thardyryll I think a 5 gal bucket of water with a coil in it and an auto drain setup in the bottom would likely work better. Drain flushes accumulated condensation out into the water
I'm willing to be that it cools the air to near ambient in about 1/2 or less the length. He did no testing to see what the temperature drop per foot was and likely wasted lots of copper and time. Internet flex or looking for the 99.9999% of what this idea can accomplish. Still, it was fun to watch. Looks a bit ridiculous.
Well since you are 99.9999% know what you are talking about, build one with half the material, record the building and testing, upload to TH-cam and let me know and I will go and watch. Other wise, your ridiculous comment is nonsense. Thank you for watching
Simply fantastic. Well thought out and executed! I have my 80 gallon compressor mounted on a rolling cart to help with vibration and to allow me to easily disconnect and wheel out from under the pallet racking for maintenance. You've inspired me to add onto the cart with a dryer/cooler like yours instead of the current intercooler I'm using. Bravo!!!
Thank you sir, I appreciate your comment. This really a great addition to any air compressor. I used this compressor for painting and plasma cutting. No moisture or oil in the compressed air. It also keeps the tank clean. Plus it will add little to the capacity of the tank. Be safe and have a great day
@@SalamSayhood One more thing - I may have missed it in the video, but did you use L or M copper pipe? I'm off to watch your other videos now! ;-)
I used L copper pipe
Custom air filter? Love that! This build is totally badass! It's a hot rod now👍
Thank you sir, I appreciate your nice comment 👍
لقد انجزت عمل شركات , انت مبدع بكل ما تحمل الكمة من معنى , اسئل الله لك التوفيق و الهداية
مشكور اخي تركي وبارك الله فيك.
Just watched your whole video, I take my hat off to you sir. Just a beautiful well thought out design. Thank you for sharing you work and yourself to us all. Take care and again, beautifully done.
Thank you sir, I really appreciate your nice comment.
Watched WHOLE video.. MASTERFUL build! One day when I grow up, I hope to have a compressor built like this!
Thank you, I appreciate your comment. Be safe and have a great day
This is on a whole different level! Outstanding workmanship and design. I dont care if it works any better than anything else or not. It looks too cool not to have in your shop. Excellent work!
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words and nice comment. The air compressor and this added system actually works great. I have a video showing how I painted my dump truck using this air compressor which I showed in that video. The air was dry and the paint came out good.
Nice setup, even enjoyed your education display on how hot compressed air can be jus using copper tubing..
Thank you sir, I appreciate your nice comment.
Great video. I'm going to rework my compressor to be more like what you built. Thank you.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your comment 😊
Best instruction and educational video I have seen! Your Great.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your nice comment.
thats a nice tubing bender.
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
Excellent job. I appreciate your attention to detail. I hope that the system is still working well for you.
Good afternoon sir, still working great. I used the system two weeks ago for painting. I appreciate your comment and support. Be safe and have a great day
Outstanding video. Great work and very well explained.
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
Nice air compressor cooler and dryer you built. Earlier in your video you stated you may do a video on re-wiring that old motor with the bad start coil. I would like to see a video on that. I am really interested in motor re-wiring.
Thank you for the nice comment, I will post very detailed videos in the future about motor and transformers winding. This was one of the early jobs that I did. Thank you for watching and have a great day.
Now thats a Bad Ass compressor Bro great job !!!!!!!
Good morning, thank you sir, I appreciate your comment.
Thanks for your hard work and detailed explanation. I don't have a compressor, but I enjoyed watching your video.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your nice comment
Very good craftsmanship. There is a "minor" detail within the scope of technicality outside of Paul's comment about building a "water separator" below. What I am referring to is Galvanic Reaction (Corrosion). What is dissimilar metal corrosion?
Galvanic corrosion (dissimilar-metal corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially, when in contact with a different type of metal, and both metals are in an electrolyte such as water, Humidity and/or harsher environments (High Salt content of air near seas/oceans). Copper needs to be isolated from dissimilar metals using any number of isolating techniques. One of the fastest and easiest ways is to use a thin layer rubber tape around each pipe (in this case that would be a lot of labor) or attached to the support the copper is mounted to. In addition Copper pipe NEEDS copper straps, not steel emt straps. While your project will last a bit, it could last MUCH longer if properly isolated. I am not throwing stone just pointing out a design flaw that could be overcome easily, even AFTER final assembly by simply loosening the straps and sliding the isolator between the metals to be isolated. Same thing with Steel Straps.
On another technical point, every hardware on this project will come loose due to vibration with no isolation Pads (Think Transformer Pad isolation) between the tank feet and the stand you built. All motor assemblies vibrate and need to use locking washers or nylon nuts to prevent this from happening. Self tapping screws will simply fall out over time. Adding Blue Locktite to your compression fittings will keep them from failing (coming loose) due to vibration.
Overall this is a "Good" design and quality built by your hands. Understanding other dynamics involved would allow you to patent the design and actually SELL it. I did like your world class craftsmanship in the build. Very Well Done.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your detailed feedback. I am aware of the galvanic corrosion to steel pipe when used in junctions with copper pipe for water lines. However I don't have any galvanized steel pipe connected to copper pipe in my project. The galvanized frame I actually applied thin film of silver paint after I finished fabrication. I used this compressor for a year now and I have had no issues so far. It does an excellent job removing moisture from the compressed air. I have a video showing how I painted my dump truck using this compressor. you have a good point about the galvanized EMT straps. I will inspect them, if there is any sign of corrosion, I'll soak them in vinegar to remove the zinc and rust if any and paint them. I may also use thin rubber between the pipes and straps. Thank you
@@SalamSayhood A bicycle tire inner tube works good and is cheap rubber
@@mrmotofy thank you for the feedback and the idea.
Galvanic corrosion does not affect compressed air lines. There is no need for a dielectric union when working with compressed air it’s not a water heater.
@@rotarycomptech Dr Technical wrong again. Any differential of metals causes this effect and while it may take a few years to actually see it, it still exists. Wise men have said it is better to be thought of as a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.
Excellent planning and execution. The air dryer will be an interesting project. Thanks for sharing👏.
Yes sir, it works great. Compared to my other air compressor (without this upgrade), this compressed air cooler and dryer will keep water away from the tank. Not a single drop of water in the tank since I finished with this project. It should give me a great results when I use it to paint the dump truck. Thank you for watching.
@@SalamSayhood 👍
Very impressive air dryer👍👍
Thank you sir, I appreciate your comment
Great job Salam. Thanks for taking the time to video it.
Thank you sir, I appreciate your comment.
Absolute perfection.
Thank you
Awesome job
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
Dam, very nice
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
Excellent job next time try heating the pipe before the fitting and everything will flow much better.
Thank you for watching and for the tip. Happy New Year
Great jop my cousin ❤
Tuqa Sayhood"
Thank you
Nice.
Thank you sir
Very nice build. A tad overkill but that never hurts. Run the drains into a common pipe with a catch bucket. That condensate water gets pretty ugly. 👍😎👌
Thank you, I appreciate your comment. Be safe and have a great day
LOL yep just 5min ago drained mine...cracking open valve with hose in a bucket. Suddenly it pops like it had a plug sprays a brown streak across my shirt and things nearby. UUGGH always something to clean
@@mrmotofy yup you need a ridged pipe🤣
That is OVERKILL
I appreciate your feedback.
no leak? no need to use flare tool too, nice, using collar and lock it tight nice.
So far I have had no leaks. These compression fittings work great for this type of application. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
@@SalamSayhood thank you that collar on the 1/2 nut got me confused with flare. I thought I needed the flare. When I see your vdo gave me the confidence without the flare. I gotta learn how to solder using torch.
It awesome work!!! Do you have the parts list and parts cost? i tired to find, but couldn't find.
The total cost including the compressor, the new motor, all the pipes and all the other items were about $700 at the time of this project. I thought about making a list of the items, however I don't know what is available as far as material in every region of the world, so I thought to let the viewers pause the video and make their own modifications depending on the material available to them. This setup is compact and as one unit, you can modify it to fit your needs. If you watch the video, I explained each item and if everything is available in your area, just duplicate my setup. If you still want me to make a part list, I don't mind, but it may take time. Thank you for the nice comment. Be safe and have a great day
@SalamSayhood Is there a reason that you used different size piping between the 2 setups? Why not use the 3/4 for the whole setup?
All the pipes are 3/4". The only other size was 3/8" from pump to valve as this is the biggest I can find.
I am impressed with your workmanship. Great job.
I am also building a 50’ 3/4” copper switchback cooler for my Quincy 54 compressor. I’m struggling on how to purge the air in the line between compressor and check valve. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Paul
Thank you sir, I am sorry I don't understand your question. Would you please explain?
@@SalamSayhood
I am talking about the unloader valve. Usually it goes between the compressor and tank. But with an aftercooler between compressor and tank, it needs to be moved. Placed between compressor and check valve before the cooler. This valve releases air in the line when the compressor shuts off. This makes it so when the motor starts up again, it’s doing so without the load caused by compressed air in line.
I was wondering how you hooked that up.
I brazed 3/4" pipe to 1/2" NPT fitting to the cooler. Then I installed the unloader valve. I used 1/2" compression fitting and 3/8" type L copper pipe from the compressor to the valve. I covered this in detail in the video. If you have more questions please let me know.
@@SalamSayhood
Thanks. I must have missed that part. I’ll go back and listen more carefully.
My Quincy compressor has a copper tube going from the unloader tank the whole control unit. I’m thinking I need to disconnect that tube from the unloader and move the whole thing to a new position. Currently it’s located at the check valve as the air enters the tank. Not sure I can post photos here. But it must be hooked up somehow so it knows when the compressor shuts off.
I’m a bit confused on how they work. Mechanical or electro-mechanical? How does the unloader valve know when to unload?
Thanks
It's very simple design, basically, pressure valve when the tank reach full pressure, it will mechanically activate the electrical switch to disconnect the power and also activate a relief valve to release the compressed air from the pump to tank tube to release that pressure (when you hear the compressor small air leak after the tank reach full pressure) so the motor can start the pump on the next cycle. I explained all that in the video and I think I said it about three times. Please watch the video and note the time of the video that you have questions and let me know.
You rewind your own electric motors 😮
I rewinded DC motors, single/three phases AC motors, transformers and inductors for about 5 years. It was one of the earliest jobs that I have. I may show the process in the future. Thank you
Great build….but a Husky ?
I bought the compressor used and in pieces. The price was right 😆 I made the frame universal so I can replace the compressor in the future if I have to. So far it works great. Thank you
Y you not use mig inverter welder 👩🏭 I run ceratec in the oil of my compressor similar make
Why specifically mig inverter welder?
I always just used the air compressor pump oil without any additive and so far no issues. I have another air compressor I bought new in 2001 and I replaced the oil for the pump a few times and just used the air compressor oil. Thank you for watching
I found liquid Molly ceratec friction reducer in the pump very good makes the oil last lots longer and easier start up and on long running times using air tools like die grinding belt sanding on older cars rust repairs and seem welding chassis on race cars the pump keeps up with me .. I need to add copper pipes like yours for water 💦 drain I have after cooler already on it but needs more I have 120 L tank and 3 horse motor vertical compressor like yours love watching your video your very talented I like your frame set up
I found Meg inverter welder easier on a generator if you don’t have mains power 240 voltage
I may give ceratec a try.
I tried after cooler aluminum radiator in the past and was disappointed twice. The first time I thought it was my fault for buying a cheap one. The second one cost me about $156 and only lasted for 2 years with the original air filter. Make sure to upgrade the air filter to something like the one I built. Till this day, when I drain the moisture, the liquid comes clean and clear.
My farm is far away from the house and sometimes I don't like to carry too much tools. I do have a MIG inverter welder at the house, carrying the cylinders and the welder is a task 😆 . You are right, welding thin metal with MIG or Flux Core is easier for me and the generator.
I appreciate your support. Be safe and have a great day
Well the cost of all that copper is more than the cost of the air compressor, looks nice though.
At the time I built the setup:
The compressor and all accessories cost me about $350 (please watch the first two videos in the air compressor project play list).
Plus about $400 for the project (cooler and dryer).
In my humble opinion this setup is way better than anything else to do the same thing.
I use this setup weekly and I have no moisture in the compressed air or in the tank. Thank you for watching and for the comment and Merry Christmas
Why do you want more torque? Isn’t higher CFM more important?
Good morning, what are you referring to? Would you please tell me the time in the video so I can check it and answer your question. Thank you
@1:45 he explains this.
Thank you sir, I thought his question was about that, I wasn't sure. I appreciate your support.
@@keithclark486 Right, but I wanted clarification. I personally would think CFM is more important than having the motor start easier. I guess it comes down to your needs and if the motor is running hot.
The higher the CFM the better as you can use the compressed air without waiting for the compressor to re charge. However, I am running this air compressor on my 5kva generator. Large pulley on the motor (higher CFM) will cause the generator to shutdown or the motor to over load or over heat quicker. Smaller pulley on the motor (less CFM) will allow the generator to run the compressor easier and the motor to run for longer periods of time. I actually had to install smaller pulley to get the compressor to run on my generator better. The CFM of my compressor is sufficient enough for me current needs.i hope this answered your question. Thank you for watching
I wouldn't act surprised that the feet are not aligned properly its a Chinese made consumer grade compressor not for commercial use its a small inconvenience if you just need it for home use if you use it commercially you need to look at something like Ingersoll rand or bell aire
Almost everything nowadays is made in China or other Asian countries. My total investment in this compressor is around $700, so far it has served me well. Thank you for the feedback,
@@SalamSayhood oh it definitely serves its purpose I just wouldn't be surprised in the least that it's not aligned that's standard fare these days
With the amount of copper pipe and welding supplies, you could’ve bought an actual belt guard after cooler
I thought about using a belt guard aftercooler, I showed one in the video. I think what I built works better. Thank you for watching
That’s a LOT of expensive copper.
Thank you for watching
You didnt install it while wearing a track suit
Good morning, I am sorry, I didn't understand the comment.
Remember u are building a water separator NOT A DRYER .
Dryer is used to remove 99.99999% moisture . A Dryer uses desiccant beads to absorb moisture .
Order of assembly is water separator then .... oil mist /micron filter then.... dryer then..... pressure regulator .
Thank you sir, I appreciate your feedback and the information.
Thanks Paul. As I am about to venture into this arena those tips help me to understand the concept better.
Paul, every time I see these wildly ambitious tube setups I wonder whether a simple three-component filter/desiccant setup mounted 25 feet downstream of the compressor would perform even better at far less labor and materials cost. This compressor is also a modest one, and surely the maze of tubing causes a pressure drop. I will admit that the air filter setup on this rig is phenomenal overkill and would flow enough air for a 300-horse diesel.
My thoughts are to have the dryer between the pump and the tank to prevent moisture from entering the tank. Also the pipes will add to the setup capacity of holding compressed air. No pressure drop. I use this compressor in a dusty environment and the large air filter is a good choice to help the air to enter the pump without any restrictions. Thank you for watching.
@@thardyryll I think a 5 gal bucket of water with a coil in it and an auto drain setup in the bottom would likely work better. Drain flushes accumulated condensation out into the water
I'm willing to be that it cools the air to near ambient in about 1/2 or less the length. He did no testing to see what the temperature drop per foot was and likely wasted lots of copper and time. Internet flex or looking for the 99.9999% of what this idea can accomplish. Still, it was fun to watch. Looks a bit ridiculous.
Well since you are 99.9999% know what you are talking about, build one with half the material, record the building and testing, upload to TH-cam and let me know and I will go and watch. Other wise, your ridiculous comment is nonsense. Thank you for watching
Мужик ну ты и психанул !)
I am sorry, I didn't understand your comment.