Good video Andy, remember that your factory xenon bulbs are ac where as the standard H7 bulbs are dc, you cannot get a decoder for ac bulbs. Ive tried many different brands of led bulbs and none of them work. My solution was too remove the 35w ballast and use 50w ballasts and bulbs with a 6k colour, I find this a lot brighter with just a hint of blue in the output, and thats another plus side to using xenon bulbs you can get many different light colours
Steve you make absolutely perfect point! Thank you for that. The 50W ballasts…I wonder do they fit the factory mounting points? I can imagine that requires a fair bit of fabrication. Great to hear your solution. I would love to see some pictures if you have some!
Hi Andy I fitted a RETROFIT LAB projector system which I’m very pleased with since 2021. I have replaced the actual headlight units in 2024 but retained the original 35watt ballasts, the projectors work fine. Now the but, occasionally one dipped beam light will go off (left or right but not both at once) this can be rectified by turning the light switch back to side lights then back to dipped. So I think I have a faulty switch. Work in progress, I will attempt to take some light meter readings. This is a good upgrade to OEM just need it to be stable.
@@user-rp9hs3dp5u sounds like it’s a good solution to the standard lights well done. Let me know how you get on with the tweaks with the switch and if it solves your intermittent bulb issue! 👍
Absolutely this! I should have said that in the video! Great spot Tony. It’s all but impossible to see the 2 slots they slide into. The metal retaining clip almost stops you sliding it far enough away from the slots to engage. I find the best way to do it is to unhook the retaining clip ( it’s just hooked in top and bottom) while you engage the cover then reattach the clip afterwards.
When HID lights are initially turned on, the ballast delivers a boosted voltage to ignite the Halogen gas between the bulb contacts, before reducing the voltage to a lower level to maintain the bulbs ignition and running. As the LED bulb is lighting with the boosted voltage before going out, I'd say it's the ballast not providing a high enough voltage continually to keep them lit. IIRC the standard ballast might be 35w, so replacing the ballast for a higher wattage option might work??? I've previously replaced my H7's with a HIDS4U 55w halogen kit (bulbs and ballasts) and they sell the 55w ballasts separately, so might be a replacement option (along with other ballasts, but I've not tried it with LEDs so it's up to anyone who wants to give it a try...)
Exactly that pal. The 35W ballasts do not have the continuous supply of high enough wattage for these to stay lit. So the initial “bang” lights then and then they extinguish. A lot of the decoders allow a lower supply to power the LEDs but as a side effect, they would not be as bright. New ballasts and resistors would work but would require chopping on the wiring. Not something I want to try on the cars! Thanks for your comment 👍
@@andycharger they should have a ballast with all the right connectors that plug straight in without chopping wiring, etc. They also do decoder and resistor kits (under the LED menu) but I've no idea how any of that'd fit.
Had an advisory on the mot last year. Sanded, polished and gave them a coat of Meguiar's lacquer which made a huge improvement. However will be replacing the xenon bulbs as they are 7+ years old before next test.
Can you test the bulbs just off a 12v battery . I’m guessing the bulbs work/stay lit if you bypass the hid ballast. The ballast probably had a capacity that gives enough amps to turn on the HID and then returns back to a lower power . So the leds are getting the extra power and then being limited and turning off . Plus HIDs don’t think the HIDs run on 12v ( the ballast is a transformer )
Yep exactly that. The initial surge gives the bulbs what they need to ignite but then run out of juice. It would need beefier ballasts to stay on permanently
@@stevenharpervw not sure how that would be possible without running wires which makes it modified. I’m cool with bulbs as long as they plug straight in
@@andycharger but the other guy you referenced, did he had HIDs with the ballast or just standard bulbs ? You know you could make up an adapter. Unplug the ballast and use a new plug there and to straight to the LEDs Personally I’m not sold on the leds, when Hids are a proven technology vs leds that can be bought for any price range and the beam patterns can be any shape , I still I’ll stick to hids
Interesting Video Andy, shame they don’t work as was hoping to change mine. Will be interesting to see if the update does work. Mine are so bad that I tried driving at night on full beam for a few miles and no one flashed me..
I tried both together and both sides separately. No difference I am afraid. It’s defo a ballast / demand issue. They operate independently anyway which you normally see when you lose one bulb or the other 👍
Bummer...good explanation though...and as always be careful with the 20 plus year old brittle plastic! Really wanted to see the comparison at the end!! (Lights didn't work)
Thanks for the forecast! I need some advice: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (air carpet target dish off jeans toilet sweet piano spoil fruit essay). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
Too bad these didn't work out of the box. I saw the video by Seb a few weeks ago and thought these looked very interesting and affordable. Could it be they work for Seb because he has the headlights where the ballast is not attached to the housing. That they're different some how?
@@Kenny_Ded yes I spoke with Seb on it and it has completely stumped us both. That is essentially the only difference. He has the older style separate ballasts. It was really disappointing as I had high hopes for the bulbs. However, I had to share my findings and experience so others are not left disappointed after spending their money. I am always honest in reviews to make sure people have all the facts to make informed decisions. Auxito have said they are looking to send me a newer product to test so will wait and see. Thanks for watching!
Hi Andy I fitted a RETROFIT LAB projector system which I’m very pleased with since 2021. I have replaced the actual headlight units in 2024 but retained the original 35watt ballasts, the projectors work fine. Now the but, occasionally one dipped beam light will go off (left or right but not both at once) this can be rectified by turning the light switch back to side lights then back to dipped. So I think I have a faulty switch. Work in progress, I will attempt to take some light meter readings. This is a good upgrade to OEM just need it to be stable.
Good video Andy, remember that your factory xenon bulbs are ac where as the standard H7 bulbs are dc, you cannot get a decoder for ac bulbs. Ive tried many different brands of led bulbs and none of them work. My solution was too remove the 35w ballast and use 50w ballasts and bulbs with a 6k colour, I find this a lot brighter with just a hint of blue in the output, and thats another plus side to using xenon bulbs you can get many different light colours
Steve you make absolutely perfect point! Thank you for that. The 50W ballasts…I wonder do they fit the factory mounting points? I can imagine that requires a fair bit of fabrication. Great to hear your solution. I would love to see some pictures if you have some!
Hi Andy I fitted a RETROFIT LAB projector system which I’m very pleased with since 2021. I have replaced the actual headlight units in 2024 but retained the original 35watt ballasts, the projectors work fine.
Now the but, occasionally one dipped beam light will go off (left or right but not both at once) this can be rectified by turning the light switch back to side lights then back to dipped. So I think I have a faulty switch.
Work in progress, I will attempt to take some light meter readings.
This is a good upgrade to OEM just need it to be stable.
@@user-rp9hs3dp5u sounds like it’s a good solution to the standard lights well done. Let me know how you get on with the tweaks with the switch and if it solves your intermittent bulb issue! 👍
Great video thanks andy ,those hinges on the plastic cover are a pain to engage whilst the headlight is in the car
Absolutely this! I should have said that in the video! Great spot Tony. It’s all but impossible to see the 2 slots they slide into. The metal retaining clip almost stops you sliding it far enough away from the slots to engage. I find the best way to do it is to unhook the retaining clip ( it’s just hooked in top and bottom) while you engage the cover then reattach the clip afterwards.
When HID lights are initially turned on, the ballast delivers a boosted voltage to ignite the Halogen gas between the bulb contacts, before reducing the voltage to a lower level to maintain the bulbs ignition and running.
As the LED bulb is lighting with the boosted voltage before going out, I'd say it's the ballast not providing a high enough voltage continually to keep them lit. IIRC the standard ballast might be 35w, so replacing the ballast for a higher wattage option might work???
I've previously replaced my H7's with a HIDS4U 55w halogen kit (bulbs and ballasts) and they sell the 55w ballasts separately, so might be a replacement option (along with other ballasts, but I've not tried it with LEDs so it's up to anyone who wants to give it a try...)
Exactly that pal. The 35W ballasts do not have the continuous supply of high enough wattage for these to stay lit. So the initial “bang” lights then and then they extinguish. A lot of the decoders allow a lower supply to power the LEDs but as a side effect, they would not be as bright. New ballasts and resistors would work but would require chopping on the wiring. Not something I want to try on the cars! Thanks for your comment 👍
@@andycharger they should have a ballast with all the right connectors that plug straight in without chopping wiring, etc. They also do decoder and resistor kits (under the LED menu) but I've no idea how any of that'd fit.
Had an advisory on the mot last year. Sanded, polished and gave them a coat of Meguiar's lacquer which made a huge improvement. However will be replacing the xenon bulbs as they are 7+ years old before next test.
@@jacksorted9115 swap them like for like would be my advice! Thanks for the comment
@@andycharger Sound advice thanks.
Can you test the bulbs just off a 12v battery . I’m guessing the bulbs work/stay lit if you bypass the hid ballast. The ballast probably had a capacity that gives enough amps to turn on the HID and then returns back to a lower power . So the leds are getting the extra power and then being limited and turning off . Plus HIDs don’t think the HIDs run on 12v ( the ballast is a transformer )
Yep exactly that. The initial surge gives the bulbs what they need to ignite but then run out of juice. It would need beefier ballasts to stay on permanently
@ no just bypass the ballast entirely
@ no just connect them straight to 12v
@@stevenharpervw not sure how that would be possible without running wires which makes it modified. I’m cool with bulbs as long as they plug straight in
@@andycharger but the other guy you referenced, did he had HIDs with the ballast or just standard bulbs ? You know you could make up an adapter. Unplug the ballast and use a new plug there and to straight to the LEDs
Personally I’m not sold on the leds, when Hids are a proven technology vs leds that can be bought for any price range and the beam patterns can be any shape , I still I’ll stick to hids
Interesting Video Andy, shame they don’t work as was hoping to change mine. Will be interesting to see if the update does work. Mine are so bad that I tried driving at night on full beam for a few miles and no one flashed me..
@@davewestrup2420 thanks Dave. There will be a follow up video once their suggested replacements arrive! 👍
Just out of interest did you fit both bulbs at the same time ? or just 1 at a time? it might make a difference
I tried both together and both sides separately. No difference I am afraid. It’s defo a ballast / demand issue. They operate independently anyway which you normally see when you lose one bulb or the other 👍
Bummer...good explanation though...and as always be careful with the 20 plus year old brittle plastic! Really wanted to see the comparison at the end!! (Lights didn't work)
Absolutely gutted they did not work but wanted to share with you all the experience of finding that out!
Thanks for the forecast! I need some advice: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (air carpet target dish off jeans toilet sweet piano spoil fruit essay). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
Possibly the craziest AI comment I have ever read! It’s hurting my brain trying to understand it! 😂
Too bad these didn't work out of the box. I saw the video by Seb a few weeks ago and thought these looked very interesting and affordable. Could it be they work for Seb because he has the headlights where the ballast is not attached to the housing. That they're different some how?
@@Kenny_Ded yes I spoke with Seb on it and it has completely stumped us both. That is essentially the only difference. He has the older style separate ballasts. It was really disappointing as I had high hopes for the bulbs. However, I had to share my findings and experience so others are not left disappointed after spending their money. I am always honest in reviews to make sure people have all the facts to make informed decisions. Auxito have said they are looking to send me a newer product to test so will wait and see. Thanks for watching!
Hi Andy I fitted a RETROFIT LAB projector system which I’m very pleased with since 2021. I have replaced the actual headlight units in 2024 but retained the original 35watt ballasts, the projectors work fine.
Now the but, occasionally one dipped beam light will go off (left or right but not both at once) this can be rectified by turning the light switch back to side lights then back to dipped. So I think I have a faulty switch.
Work in progress, I will attempt to take some light meter readings.
This is a good upgrade to OEM just need it to be stable.