For anyone who has not done this, you need to appreciate how much those cables do not want to be moved! They fight back constantly, nearly throwing you off steps, trying to remove your fingers and it's real physical graft. Great video 👊
all for f all real use because some dimwit engineer couldnt make some rubber membrane or slideable metal sheet etc to get them in easier. a simple U shaped receiving slot that has 2 seperate squares can slide into with holes to take the metal armor clamps. 5$ of mfg cost in a 10000$ cabinet or abuse some poor electricians for an entire work day in a dangerous manner and 200x more cost.
@@richardroberson9277I’ve always said if you made the engineers get out into the field and work on the stuff they designed things would become a lot easier!
Can we all appreciate the bravery of this bloke. Putting all this on TH-cam and opening himself up to everyone criticising. But to do it when other sparkies are going to watch and let loose. Great work love watching
I recall having to remove components from a European made cabinet which did not have a UL sticker, to place in an identical cabinet which did. Then the American inspector was satisfied. To me, the durability of the European cabling thing in industrial machinery is superior, but not to most American inspectors when they don't see a UL or CSA sticker.
If thats what you did for your soon to come out RTX 5080, I'll probably need to use 4ga from the super capacitor to the flux capacitor, from there 2ga to my 5090. i'll be able to use the excess heat to power my forge, so I can melt steele while I play video games! 4K baby
You should have used twin and earth cable mate, much easier to install - my mate Derek runs his whole house off a 2.5mm that he connected into the lamp post outside after his electric got cut off. Get's a bit warm when his cooker's on, so you might want to use a 6mm for your job. Let me know if you want Derek's number
@@residualelectrical Nice one, he said to use the brown of the t&e as phase 1, the blue as phase 2 and the CPC as phase 3 as this has less load as no one ever uses it........ Saves cutting the CPC off and as we all know, metal enclosures earth themselves through the ground
I can't imagine the nerves you must've felt making that final cut of those 185's. I don't know about you but making that final cut is the most nerve-wracking part as your measurements have to be bang on! Well done Mike.
Also drill out the pilot hole first, then your not stamping the hole cutter down into the work surface with any force. Glad to see you using lube. We like lube
hey we were gonna ...whats the word, gosh its been so long since I used it, uhm, sweat, no ... sweet? No....sweegedt! yeah thats it! We we gonna sweegedt up the area first thing but when we came in they were magically gone again!
Lovely. I still have a 1 meter section of 400mm 4core SWA complete with 100mm brass CW gland in my garage from a job I did years ago. All the scrap got weighed in but due to the novelty of it being the largest multicore I had dealt with I kept a section as a trophy. Used to regularly terminate 1000mm single core copper SWA’s but they were a doddle compared to the multicores. I was considerably fitter back then!
Tremendous video, thanks. Consider using a magnet to collect the swarf. You can get magnet sticks for this that are a tube with a magnet inside that you can pull out after collecting the swarf so it falls off and into a bin.
Metal filing trick for you if you like... You can build a dam around your drill area on the top of the enclosure from wide masking tape looped lengthwise into long tubes with the sticky side out. I dislike having to deal with filing cleanup around gear. The tape catches most of the filings automatically and you can use it like a sponge to pick up the rest.
I set up my M12 vacuum next to where I'm drilling, and tape the nozzle next to the hole if needed. I'm often drilling fiberglass composite so I don't want to breathe that stuff. It keeps it really clean, I love that vacuum more than I thought I would. I find it helps with the hole sawing too, to suck the chips out and stop them clogging it up.
The holesaws are meant to have play, it's so they don't lock tight together, you screw the hole saw all the way down then undo it until it lines up with the holes, you then do the bottom ring up to push the locking rings through 👌 Keep the content coming though my man 💪💯
Thanks bro, I appreciate that and how the holesaw and arbor works. This arbour had to much vertical play, causing the holesaw to jump when spinning. Thanks for tuning in 👊🏼
You guys did and awesome job, wrestling that cable in. But, how many of us were thinking we'd hear, "Damn, I forgot to first put the sleeve and nut on before getting it into the cabinet." !!
Retired now, brings back memories, I see nothings changed. Probably the only thing is that we used to have a lot of stuff custom manufactured and quite often I would have to fabricate wooden structures to provide temporary supports. I moved away from these jobs because once I was installing the power feeds to the printing presses in London, massively underestimated the difficulty and scale of the job, finished up way out of pocket and every one of us got injured!
I had a huge urge to just jump up on there and help you. I’ve wrestled like that with SWA and have the scars to prove it. Well done for keeping your cool
We had a data centre fitted out with tonnes (probably literally, would be hundreds of metres of it) of this type of cable last year. Watching you guys wrestle this in makes me feel for the guys who had to do all of that.
Only done a bit of this type of work a long time ago. We were always told to eliminate eddy currents around the single cables. We had to either take them through insulated material such as Tufnol or put a saw cut between each cable.
Was surprised you chose to fit the gland in the panel first looks to have made it much more difficult on that size of cable. I always fit the gland on the cable first especially on larger cable.
I’ve tried both ways quite extensively and prefer this way as the cable comes out far less damaged when there is wresting involved, many ways to do the job though 👍🏼
yay, it wasn't just me...same thought. gland to cable, then cable to hole. Hat tip to the lads muscling it through - it is still some serious fat cable.
@ don't know about you but if I try to do it with the gland I place the cut is never level as it changes with the bend radius, plus the panel cut out is much bigger to get the end through
I used to install double wall pipework similer diameter but also larger into cabinets like yours it was much lighter but we had the problem that if you over bent it you could kink it, brought back lots of memories. Good job liked it a lot hope to see the termination.
I have that exact exhaust cutter. Once you’ve rung a few times, you are able to readjust the chain to the next tightest link. You’ll notice this on a few cable sizes
Fantastic to watch. I used to sell these types of mains cables and some were huge, and I always wondered what sort of battles must be had with them to get them installed.
Your work is incredible. We all have different techniques, but in the end, we are the ones who decide how to do our work. Big respect to everyone! Thanks for sharing this video it’s so satisfying.
Great video and content. Only to suggest things that may help from my time struggling...use BICC glands over 70mm and file the ends of the swa, both so you can start the tread. Fantastic video, thank you.
Mechanical engineer here. I handled some thick cables at a factory - just tore arrange them - they don't want to move. Appreciate how you deal with these
Great video. And job well done. Ive been doing rhis a few years and always just eyed in the cut point on the steel armour. Your method with the fabric tape looks brilliant.
For those who know how to do it... you take care of bendius radius... (you didn't) You take al the measures then remove the top plate, and work faster better... at last, once the gland are secured reinstate the top plate and do connections! OOOPS...
Invest in some hole punches/dies. Milwaukee even do a powered hole punch tool (that goes up to 4"). Never holesaw above switchgear, unless you have no choice. Use a hole punch or remove the top panel.
True, but a much smaller holesaw, meaning less swarf. Also a hole punch leaves a way cleaner hole and almost eliminates the need for deburring. Also the hole punch will last far longer than a holesaw.
As a consulting engineer, I try to avoid specifying above 240mm2 SWA's and going down the parallel or singles route. These cables become too unwieldy at these sizes and the bend radius becomes monstrous. Also nice to see people using cleats rather than cable ties on sub-mains.
The little trick jointtech showed you with working out gland location can be used over a much longer distance. Use a smaller piece of sac cable to work out your swoop off the ladder and transfer it to your 185, saves wrestling the big cable as much. Also you can take a few cleats off your ladder to lose some length to help get your nose into the hole. I’ve also never glanded in place like that on something as big. I’m not saying it’s wrong but I much prefer to gland first then send it in as 1
Yeah I’ve used it over far longer distances, bit of trunking lid works great too. Yeah could’ve dropped some cleats but it doesn’t always go back the same when you do that. I find when there is wresting involved it’s better to gland in site as the cable gets abused far less. Many ways to do it though 👊🏼
What makes it real interesting is trying to repair and rerack existing 70yr old cables larger than this at3am in a muck filled manhole in the middle of winter. Life as an old Bell guy, nothin sweeter.
I’ve never seen anyone gland off the plate first and then the cable; it’s usually done the other way around because it would be much easier to feed the cable through.
For sure, but when there is wresting involved the cable can get damaged by the hole in the gland plate. The bend we was trying to create while glanding would force the edge of the whole to cut into the sheath on multiple occasions. Many different ways to do it though, I’ve done both methods extensively, depends on the situation.
I don't want to be an armchair expert, BUT, why didn't you remove the gland plate to pass the cables through the brass. Then you'd have a massive hole to thread the cables into the cabinet. Just a thought! Great video as always.
i wonder if you could remove the screwes from the top plate to so you get some more wiggle room. IMagine feeding those in and forgetting the nut, I would go home
I recently experienced something like this.(shielded cable) Two big leads to a motor and one for a big ac( that reads like big mac:P). Hated it. I do however, respect that work. Dont overdo it and stay safe :)
broken? from those 2 cables? ah cmon you youngsters! I used to terminate those 2 in less than an hour! but overall good job, nice bend radius, nice clamps, and a nice entry in the cabinet. keep up the good work.
I dragged and installed 12 smaller versions of these cables in a shipping container, in the summer, on my back on a steel hydraulic tank. That was a brutal 3 days!
Nice work and very professional looking install! I'm just thinking though, wouldn't it have been easier to maneuver those cables around and into the cabinet if you took that upper panel off and threaded them through the holes before clamping everything down?
without spiking the goddamn cable no way in hell. putting unarmored cable into a live cabinet is another thing, thats doable with experienced people around, and i just hope the busbars are atleast covered with a well braced perforated metal sheet or somekind of plastic, its a bitch to touch your elbow to the busbar when bringing in the cable.
@@DeviloftheHelll You won't find any instructions on how to manipulate a live cable into any sort of cabinet. That includes a 4mm street lighting cable. Over 30 years of cable jointing you get to see and hear of some of the horror stories and near misses. Some corners aren't worth cutting.
@@residualelectrical It's a lot easier these days as it's all mechanical connections. We used to joint live mains cables with ferrules, a metal pot with molten metal, two ladles for pouring the metal, some flux and a cotton cloth to smooth off the excess metal before it cooled. All while wearing thick rubber gloves. Happy days. 😉
Could be a silly question, but once you'd measured the length, why didn't you unscrew the top panel? looks like it would have made getting the cables in easier?
I had a face palm moment at 8:00. Your fast forward lines looked like water rippling for just long enough that I thought WTF HAPPENED, did it flood? There are still lights on, get out of there. Ha😂
You should have removed the gland plate and fed cable down so when you cut armoured its the correct length and fits square on the gland. Once you move or bend that cable the armoured with move to different lengths and makes things awkward.
@@residualelectricalwhere as I'd have removed the gland plate, glanded both cables off and into the plate and then wrestled the plate and cables back into position. Granted its relient on pre-forming your cable bends as much as possible but my point is there's loads of ways to do the same job. All we used to have was nylon rope, a hack saw and a Stanley knife. God I feel old 😂
Putting gland fully on first only works good for smaller cable. Big cable like that you have todo it how he has else you’ll just chew the fuck out the cores
Loved this video, but a suggestion I have is to make the music much quieter. I love to hear you speak and I hate when the music drowns out your voice. :) thanks!
4:30 Ever drilled one too big on a friday afternoon then tell the guys on monday that the extra metal plate on top of the DB is for structural support around the gland? :D Also not to be that guy but at 6:27 you should really be using a contact washer + spring washer, because the metal is painted. Just a week ago I was fixing up something like that because it resulted in a 51 ohm loop impedance on the chassis
If I had to guess that this was a test stand application since those drives are not your typical VFD. Also cable like this is typically only used for the output leads that have lots of high frequency harmonics (in the US). These cable assemblies are terrible to work with.
Great video Mike. you gained a good few tips from Tony there making it a bit easier I'm sure after a few goes on the off cuts with the exhaust cutter just to get used to it. Was it any standard exhaust cutter you got?
Nice one mate, I’ll have to see but I couldn’t get it on the tighter setting the tool wouldn’t even close, will mess about with it and see how i get on 👊🏼
WATCH PART 2 👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/Q2h2GLj63OM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=afDFdz3ir4QHL2N-
For anyone who has not done this, you need to appreciate how much those cables do not want to be moved! They fight back constantly, nearly throwing you off steps, trying to remove your fingers and it's real physical graft. Great video 👊
I use to install large generator/ UPS. Sets, the biggest cables we used was a single core SWA 620mm
At that size they go where they want to
Seriously, at that size cables get rather opinionated, and as you try to get them into tighter spaces, they just get outright _mean_.
all for f all real use because some dimwit engineer couldnt make some rubber membrane or slideable metal sheet etc to get them in easier. a simple U shaped receiving slot that has 2 seperate squares can slide into with holes to take the metal armor clamps. 5$ of mfg cost in a 10000$ cabinet or abuse some poor electricians for an entire work day in a dangerous manner and 200x more cost.
@@richardroberson9277I’ve always said if you made the engineers get out into the field and work on the stuff they designed things would become a lot easier!
Oh god its a constant issue. Ive worked with double ought in live panels and its scary sweaty stuff
Can we all appreciate the bravery of this bloke. Putting all this on TH-cam and opening himself up to everyone criticising. But to do it when other sparkies are going to watch and let loose. Great work love watching
I recall having to remove components from a European made cabinet which did not have a UL sticker, to place in an identical cabinet which did. Then the American inspector was satisfied. To me, the durability of the European cabling thing in industrial machinery is superior, but not to most American inspectors when they don't see a UL or CSA sticker.
Thanks for tutorial, now I was able to connect my RTX 5080 to power grid.
If thats what you did for your soon to come out RTX 5080, I'll probably need to use 4ga from the super capacitor to the flux capacitor, from there 2ga to my 5090. i'll be able to use the excess heat to power my forge, so I can melt steele while I play video games! 4K baby
I heard the new models have 4gb of vram
At least that'll solve the PSU cables from spontaniously combusting in future...
I see what you did there. :)
The street lights still dim when you turn it on though.
You should have used twin and earth cable mate, much easier to install - my mate Derek runs his whole house off a 2.5mm that he connected into the lamp post outside after his electric got cut off. Get's a bit warm when his cooker's on, so you might want to use a 6mm for your job. Let me know if you want Derek's number
I’ll give him a shout 😂
@@residualelectrical Nice one, he said to use the brown of the t&e as phase 1, the blue as phase 2 and the CPC as phase 3 as this has less load as no one ever uses it........ Saves cutting the CPC off and as we all know, metal enclosures earth themselves through the ground
Jump started a car off 2.5 twin and earth once! Swear down!
😂😂😂 I hope one of them DIYers isn't reading this getting funny thoughts 😅
Tell Derek to make a 1.5mm cable spiral in the room, so it also heats him while cooking 😁😉🔥 ⚡⚡faísca de portugal
I can't imagine the nerves you must've felt making that final cut of those 185's. I don't know about you but making that final cut is the most nerve-wracking part as your measurements have to be bang on! Well done Mike.
Tip for you. Don't cut with the hole saw at max speed. You will overheat it and blunt it much quicker. Drill far slower and just let it do the work.
I'm surprised he doesn't have the Milwaukee M18 knockout set.
Guilty as charged
@@starlite528 was thinking the same .. as he is good sponsered by them probably 🙂
Also drill out the pilot hole first, then your not stamping the hole cutter down into the work surface with any force. Glad to see you using lube. We like lube
@@russ1669 I see so many people bending pilot bits doing this
Be a good sparky and make sure you leave all your offcuts on the floor for other people to clean up!
hey we were gonna ...whats the word, gosh its been so long since I used it, uhm, sweat, no ... sweet? No....sweegedt! yeah thats it! We we gonna sweegedt up the area first thing but when we came in they were magically gone again!
For someone who think 16mm cooker cable is "heavy cable", I found this video thoroughly enjoyable.
NO chance to correct mistakes.. Good Work.
22:10 "alright, push, the tip is in......alright, one more pump, one more" that makes me anxious.
Did you notice the cheeky smirk 🤣🤣
😅
How did you handle 13:50 then?
And get the strapon 😱🤣
Lovely. I still have a 1 meter section of 400mm 4core SWA complete with 100mm brass CW gland in my garage from a job I did years ago. All the scrap got weighed in but due to the novelty of it being the largest multicore I had dealt with I kept a section as a trophy. Used to regularly terminate 1000mm single core copper SWA’s but they were a doddle compared to the multicores. I was considerably fitter back then!
My old shelf had a lineup of the "worst one so far" bits. Weird to see it starting with 50mm2 4 core alu lol. That was a while ago.
Tremendous video, thanks.
Consider using a magnet to collect the swarf. You can get magnet sticks for this that are a tube with a magnet inside that you can pull out after collecting the swarf so it falls off and into a bin.
Metal filing trick for you if you like... You can build a dam around your drill area on the top of the enclosure from wide masking tape looped lengthwise into long tubes with the sticky side out. I dislike having to deal with filing cleanup around gear. The tape catches most of the filings automatically and you can use it like a sponge to pick up the rest.
Will have to give that a go, nice one 👊🏼
@@residualelectricalor get you’re mate on the hoover and c90 compound paste fut cutting?
Great work buddy
Or you can just remove that panel, drill the holes, and reattach it. You never know where those chips will end up and there‘s screws for a reason.
I set up my M12 vacuum next to where I'm drilling, and tape the nozzle next to the hole if needed. I'm often drilling fiberglass composite so I don't want to breathe that stuff. It keeps it really clean, I love that vacuum more than I thought I would. I find it helps with the hole sawing too, to suck the chips out and stop them clogging it up.
The holesaws are meant to have play, it's so they don't lock tight together, you screw the hole saw all the way down then undo it until it lines up with the holes, you then do the bottom ring up to push the locking rings through 👌
Keep the content coming though my man 💪💯
Thanks bro, I appreciate that and how the holesaw and arbor works.
This arbour had to much vertical play, causing the holesaw to jump when spinning.
Thanks for tuning in 👊🏼
@residualelectrical ahhhh I get you!.. makes sense dude 👌💯
You guys did and awesome job, wrestling that cable in. But, how many of us were thinking we'd hear, "Damn, I forgot to first put the sleeve and nut on before getting it into the cabinet." !!
Retired now, brings back memories, I see nothings changed. Probably the only thing is that we used to have a lot of stuff custom manufactured and quite often I would have to fabricate wooden structures to provide temporary supports. I moved away from these jobs because once I was installing the power feeds to the printing presses in London, massively underestimated the difficulty and scale of the job, finished up way out of pocket and every one of us got injured!
I had a huge urge to just jump up on there and help you. I’ve wrestled like that with SWA and have the scars to prove it. Well done for keeping your cool
We had a data centre fitted out with tonnes (probably literally, would be hundreds of metres of it) of this type of cable last year. Watching you guys wrestle this in makes me feel for the guys who had to do all of that.
Ehh they get paid a lot to do it lol
Some people get confused wiring a plug. As a gas engineer [retired] I was buzzing when I got my part P, feel a bit silly now watching these guys 😂😂😂
Well done both we actually installed 2x 240mm 4c Swa’s luckily in a duct, connected to Main Panel Board, took a load of sweat & tears.😎
I've seen completed installations like this and knew it was a ton of work... but yeah, thats a lot of lovely work.
Brings back lots of memories working on the tools. Well done.
Excellent work lads . Thumbs up. 90 % of the work is bending and getting that cable to fit !
Only done a bit of this type of work a long time ago. We were always told to eliminate eddy currents around the single cables. We had to either take them through insulated material such as Tufnol or put a saw cut between each cable.
Good one Mikey. Reminds me of the stories of a mate who used to do high rise block cabling and electricals. Hard work indeed.
“We have to tidy up” holy shit you guys are different level sparks.
you mean these guys arent entitled prima dona princesses like US union sparkies?
@ sparks are the same all round they world. They never tidy up after themselves. Except these guys.
You really should protect your eyes when drilling metal and messing with those armour strands. No, squinting does not count.
Was surprised you chose to fit the gland in the panel first looks to have made it much more difficult on that size of cable. I always fit the gland on the cable first especially on larger cable.
I’ve tried both ways quite extensively and prefer this way as the cable comes out far less damaged when there is wresting involved, many ways to do the job though 👍🏼
yay, it wasn't just me...same thought. gland to cable, then cable to hole. Hat tip to the lads muscling it through - it is still some serious fat cable.
@ don't know about you but if I try to do it with the gland I place the cut is never level as it changes with the bend radius, plus the panel cut out is much bigger to get the end through
Would removing the entire square plate, running the cables through and then inserting them in the large square hole make this job easier?
@@Stefan_Van_pellicom Imagine having to line up that big plate with 2 monster cables running through it... and lining up a bunch of 6mm looking bolts?
I used to install double wall pipework similer diameter but also larger into cabinets like yours it was much lighter but we had the problem that if you over bent it you could kink it, brought back lots of memories. Good job liked it a lot hope to see the termination.
Liking the copper plates wanting to pocket them. Spoken like a true electrician 🤘🏾😆
I have that exact exhaust cutter. Once you’ve rung a few times, you are able to readjust the chain to the next tightest link. You’ll notice this on a few cable sizes
I’ll have to have another go with it
Fantastic to watch. I used to sell these types of mains cables and some were huge, and I always wondered what sort of battles must be had with them to get them installed.
Your work is incredible. We all have different techniques, but in the end, we are the ones who decide how to do our work. Big respect to everyone! Thanks for sharing this video it’s so satisfying.
Thanks man
Great video and content. Only to suggest things that may help from my time struggling...use BICC glands over 70mm and file the ends of the swa, both so you can start the tread. Fantastic video, thank you.
I love watching how different things are done than here in America. I still use the same tools that you do. Great video man!
Brilliant video guys thank you for sharing, I found it very insightful 🙌🏻
Next time I’m struggling with a 10mm t&e I’ll remember this 👍🏼
Sweet video, i know how difficult and how much effort it is to bend,set, and install SWA's into the final position. Good effort lads.
Mechanical engineer here. I handled some thick cables at a factory - just tore arrange them - they don't want to move. Appreciate how you deal with these
Fascinating to see this artful and brute force work. Craving final shots of the finished work, though!
Great video. And job well done. Ive been doing rhis a few years and always just eyed in the cut point on the steel armour. Your method with the fabric tape looks brilliant.
"Now its wrestling time" + the depressed AF facial expression killed me XD
good stuff, was just wrestling and terminating some 4/0 and 350’s in some tight gear this week.
I design panels for a living. Biggest service I ever designed for was 1200A. They ran each phase as 4 500kcmil cables.
"This is just stupid, why do they make cables this big?' 😂
For those who know how to do it... you take care of bendius radius... (you didn't) You take al the measures then remove the top plate, and work faster better... at last, once the gland are secured reinstate the top plate and do connections! OOOPS...
Invest in some hole punches/dies. Milwaukee even do a powered hole punch tool (that goes up to 4"). Never holesaw above switchgear, unless you have no choice. Use a hole punch or remove the top panel.
You still need to wholesaw to start the punch...
True, but a much smaller holesaw, meaning less swarf. Also a hole punch leaves a way cleaner hole and almost eliminates the need for deburring.
Also the hole punch will last far longer than a holesaw.
@@pat_davis I'd just remove plate and wholesaw it then reset it myself
@AGRElectrics I'd remove the plate too, but once you go to the punch you won't wanna go back haha
Yeah Milwaukee hole punch is inbound, lovely bit of kit 👍🏼
As a consulting engineer, I try to avoid specifying above 240mm2 SWA's and going down the parallel or singles route. These cables become too unwieldy at these sizes and the bend radius becomes monstrous. Also nice to see people using cleats rather than cable ties on sub-mains.
The little trick jointtech showed you with working out gland location can be used over a much longer distance. Use a smaller piece of sac cable to work out your swoop off the ladder and transfer it to your 185, saves wrestling the big cable as much. Also you can take a few cleats off your ladder to lose some length to help get your nose into the hole. I’ve also never glanded in place like that on something as big. I’m not saying it’s wrong but I much prefer to gland first then send it in as 1
Yeah I’ve used it over far longer distances, bit of trunking lid works great too.
Yeah could’ve dropped some cleats but it doesn’t always go back the same when you do that.
I find when there is wresting involved it’s better to gland in site as the cable gets abused far less.
Many ways to do it though 👊🏼
Great work. But always remove gland plates when you can. Swarf inside the control panel could cause damage when powered up and leave you liable.
Sure, you can also catch all the swarf in a box, like we did in the video 👍🏼
What makes it real interesting is trying to repair and rerack existing 70yr old cables larger than this at3am in a muck filled manhole in the middle of winter. Life as an old Bell guy, nothin sweeter.
Awesome work! I won't grumble about manipulating 25 sq tails anymore :)
I’ve never seen anyone gland off the plate first and then the cable; it’s usually done the other way around because it would be much easier to feed the cable through.
For sure, but when there is wresting involved the cable can get damaged by the hole in the gland plate.
The bend we was trying to create while glanding would force the edge of the whole to cut into the sheath on multiple occasions.
Many different ways to do it though, I’ve done both methods extensively, depends on the situation.
Well done Mike. Good graft. 185 4 cores are not forgiving at all 💪👍
I don't want to be an armchair expert, BUT, why didn't you remove the gland plate to pass the cables through the brass. Then you'd have a massive hole to thread the cables into the cabinet. Just a thought! Great video as always.
i wonder if you could remove the screwes from the top plate to so you get some more wiggle room.
IMagine feeding those in and forgetting the nut, I would go home
It’s a great idea but you’re at the mercy of the cables and they don’t wiggle a lot.
Haha I’ve done it before it’s a nightmare 😅
I recently experienced something like this.(shielded cable) Two big leads to a motor and one for a big ac( that reads like big mac:P). Hated it. I do however, respect that work. Dont overdo it and stay safe :)
I can literally feel the cramp in stomach just from seeing this cable.
It's incredibly tough job to move it around.
So interesting to see the different kit and methods used in Europe vs here in Canada
broken? from those 2 cables? ah cmon you youngsters! I used to terminate those 2 in less than an hour!
but overall good job, nice bend radius, nice clamps, and a nice entry in the cabinet. keep up the good work.
I dragged and installed 12 smaller versions of these cables in a shipping container, in the summer, on my back on a steel hydraulic tank. That was a brutal 3 days!
Great job lads! Just need you to move it 2 meters farther down!
Hard work, guys! You are real professionals
Having done this over a dozen times this year, I'm a bit miffed for not realizing straps. Next time should be easier.
Nice work and very professional looking install! I'm just thinking though, wouldn't it have been easier to maneuver those cables around and into the cabinet if you took that upper panel off and threaded them through the holes before clamping everything down?
nice work there! would have loved watching you wrestle that cable upstairs and into the containment but this works too
A hundered year old technology. How are mere humans able to do this ? Its a miracle, only possible with Milwaukee band saws. Mindboggling.
Now try working on stuff like this live, outside, down a muddy hole in the middle of winter, when it's pissing down. I'm glad I'm a retired jointer.
without spiking the goddamn cable no way in hell. putting unarmored cable into a live cabinet is another thing, thats doable with experienced people around, and i just hope the busbars are atleast covered with a well braced perforated metal sheet or somekind of plastic, its a bitch to touch your elbow to the busbar when bringing in the cable.
@@DeviloftheHelll You won't find any instructions on how to manipulate a live cable into any sort of cabinet. That includes a 4mm street lighting cable. Over 30 years of cable jointing you get to see and hear of some of the horror stories and near misses. Some corners aren't worth cutting.
Haha sounds like graft, would be up for it though 💪🏼
@@residualelectrical It's a lot easier these days as it's all mechanical connections. We used to joint live mains cables with ferrules, a metal pot with molten metal, two ladles for pouring the metal, some flux and a cotton cloth to smooth off the excess metal before it cooled. All while wearing thick rubber gloves. Happy days. 😉
@@Dooguk i know. never stop amazing me to see faces of highers ups when they get told to come get on it, while i hand them over the hand tools for it.
I also got exhaust cutters for doing big armour! Got the vice grip ones though but more fiddly but you can fine tune that clamp down 💪
The perfect size cable, not too small so its fiddly and not 200+ so your fighting the bastard! 👍🏼
Completely agree, I’ll always design out a 240 cable if I can, not worth the effort needed 👍🏼
Fantastic safety squint at 20:53
I think I would have worn some goggles for that operation…
Could be a silly question, but once you'd measured the length, why didn't you unscrew the top panel? looks like it would have made getting the cables in easier?
Instead of deburring with a file, grab a Noga deburring tool. They're great and pretty cheap (I think I paid like US$13 for mine).
after you got the last cable in I thought "omg is the gland nut on there?"
Could you imagine 😂
I had a face palm moment at 8:00. Your fast forward lines looked like water rippling for just long enough that I thought WTF HAPPENED, did it flood? There are still lights on, get out of there. Ha😂
U will get used the feel and sound of the exhaust cutters to know you've gone to correct depth
That smirk after the tips in 😂
Amazing work bro 👊
Nice one 👊🏼
THis is why i use the Bosch Holesaws, you don't get the arbour locking up, all great!
Very jointech inspired this video, even with trying to get them all off in one 😂
Haha you know it bro! 👊🏼
I feel your pain lads, those cables are absolute bastards to work with.
Having the prototype band saw but no hole punch tool is crazy 😂 ask your rep for the hook up dang
You should have removed the gland plate and fed cable down so when you cut armoured its the correct length and fits square on the gland. Once you move or bend that cable the armoured with move to different lengths and makes things awkward.
What a video mate. Class 😍
Nice one Mark 👊🏼
Great job guys!!
You’ll find it much easier glancing the cable before putting it into the panel bud. Put the lock ring on after
I disagree, the inner sheath gets chewed up a lot more that way too, different strokes for different folks though
@ amen
@@residualelectricalwhere as I'd have removed the gland plate, glanded both cables off and into the plate and then wrestled the plate and cables back into position. Granted its relient on pre-forming your cable bends as much as possible but my point is there's loads of ways to do the same job.
All we used to have was nylon rope, a hack saw and a Stanley knife. God I feel old 😂
Join the gang brother 😁, don't forget the 14lb sledge & baulk of wood for helping bend the bigger cables.
Putting gland fully on first only works good for smaller cable. Big cable like that you have todo it how he has else you’ll just chew the fuck out the cores
proper sparkie work top video mate keep um coming
Nice one bro 👊🏼
When you have to fight this much, I suggest the installation technology needs serious improvement.
It shouldn’t be this hard in 2024.
Loved this video, but a suggestion I have is to make the music much quieter. I love to hear you speak and I hate when the music drowns out your voice. :) thanks!
13:32
MUST WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES !!!
You're doing it wrong. Bunch of cowboys. 🙄
The dart hole saws are absolutely shocking.
I’m not impressed to be honest 🤔
Love your videos and knowledge mate
Yea ive been doing 4-5 phase supplies recently on small intalls like this, good start though
4-5 phases?
What's the timing relationship between 4th and 3rd phase, and of 5th to 4th phase?
@deang5622 usually get them done before lunchtime 👍
😂
"Why do they make cable this big" is kind of a worrying comment from an electrician 😂
Im sure it was just a turn of phrase out of frustration.
"Alright the tip's in" little giggle. You sir, have a dirty mind.
4:30 Ever drilled one too big on a friday afternoon then tell the guys on monday that the extra metal plate on top of the DB is for structural support around the gland? :D
Also not to be that guy but at 6:27 you should really be using a contact washer + spring washer, because the metal is painted. Just a week ago I was fixing up something like that because it resulted in a 51 ohm loop impedance on the chassis
If I had to guess that this was a test stand application since those drives are not your typical VFD. Also cable like this is typically only used for the output leads that have lots of high frequency harmonics (in the US). These cable assemblies are terrible to work with.
Makes you appreciate how good Tony from Jointech is at this, he slings these in on his own every day...
Great video Mike. you gained a good few tips from Tony there making it a bit easier I'm sure after a few goes on the off cuts with the exhaust cutter just to get used to it. Was it any standard exhaust cutter you got?
Nice one mate, I’ll have to see but I couldn’t get it on the tighter setting the tool wouldn’t even close, will mess about with it and see how i get on 👊🏼
"Hey! Your videos look fantastic. May I ask what camera you use to record them? By the way, what editing app do you use for your videos
Thanks, currently I use a ZV-E1 and premiere pro 👍🏼