You know what I like about this guy? His business model has him selling his instructional videos to the world's best film schools. He's an award-winning director and cinematographer. I don't know how these TH-camrs who call themselves experts in filmmaking who are anything but have such gigantic TH-cam channels when his guys like this on here I wish you'd put out more TH-cam content and blow them away because he's actually a real teacher a true professional
I don't want to be the one who gives advice but doesn't tell anything, so I will give you some examples :D Interior lighting for video, lighting daylight interior, interior cinematography, how to light a scene, advanced cinematography techniques, how to light interior scene, how to light an interior day scene. You have 500 characters for the tags, make a good use of them and the views will come to quality content like this! (I was a user of FilmSkills long ago!)
👍🏻 “Light and shadow of the filmmaker!” 🎥 Very educational post! When I imagine that EVERY scene has to be prepared so intensively, I literally get dizzy. Luckily, my (micro) projects usually only have one or two perspectives. But I'm thinking about whether I shouldn't shed more (better) light on the matter. ☀️
Gaffers tape is for attaching stuff to or marking your OWN equipment. Artist's Paper Tape is for taping stuff to walls and floors on location. Gaffers tape will remove paint and destroy the finish on hardwood floors. I use only the professional grade gaffers tape and have destroyed a trade show floor with it. Paper tape all the way. Otherwise, a great tutorial.
That's exactly right, but if you don't have paper tape, in a pinch you can tear off a piece of gaffers tape from the roll then stick and unstick it to your jeans a few times. This will make it much less sticky and won't pull off the paint or surface.
Very nice and detail video, its rare to find such great tutorial on youtube. In my opinion the thing that could have made this shot even better and is a great way to improve every shot is a little more color temperature contrast. Maybe put your camera on like 4000k for the overall image to be a little cooler, and put the key light on 6000k to warm up the subjet and make him pop out the frame. It is not a critic for the video but an advice for helping beginners cinematographers.
looks really nice, I woder if there was a way to use cutter flag to remove reflection of key light in windows that we can see at the beggining of the scene ?
You can buy rolls of gels from FilmTools. If you live in LA, also check out Expendables Recycler. They sell partial rolls at a big discount and that’s where I get most of mine.
Great video, one thing I am confused about and wondered if you could clear up ...If you opened your iris all the way as suggested at 6:40 (which I think is 1.5 on your lens?) but measured your key light to be a little over 5.6?, your key was 4 and 1/2 stops overexposed and it looks like that? seems strange because it looks properly exposed to me. Thanks!
You’re exactly right, however I chose to open my aperture all the way to achieve a shallow depth of field, and that would have over exposed the shot. But I used a neutral density filter instead to achieve the correct exposure. That way, I got the shallow depth of field I wanted all while properly exposing the shot.
These re incredibly helpful! You’re such a great teacher and I appreciate how you show things nearly in real time, like actually setting up each piece of equipment.
I guess if you are on a tight schedule you couldn’t wait for the sun to go down and shoot later in the day/evening, so you had to tint the windows, right? Superb content btw. Subscribed & following.
You could, but I only use the ISO for exposure as a last resort. Keep in mind that the camera’s imaging sensor has been manufactured to operate in it’s sweet spot, which is known as the “native ISO.” Increasing or decreasing your ISO does not let more light into the camera lens, it simply adjusts the brightness of the image after it’s been captured. That’s why, using a neutral density filter (or aperture) to alter the light before it reaches the imaging sensor will produce a better image.
I wouldn’t. You never know if the monitor is properly calibrated. If it’s too bright, you will be underexposing all your shots. If it’s too dark, you will be overexposing them.
Great tutorial/breakdown but I was wondering why you couldn’t position the diffusion frame at an angle to his face to create the shape and contrast rather than adding another light?
The choice wasn't to simply add more light, but to sculpt it. The first light source through the 4x4 frame was to create the key light and set the proper brightness for the actor's skin tones. The second side light was to sculpt the light to create a more three-dimensional feel. This is a technique I often use to make the lighting look more natural and less like a typical three-point lighting set-up.
Haha, no, I didn't intentionally add the chromatic aberration. The Rokinon DS series lenses are OK when you're working in the middle 2/3 of the aperture range, but anything more open than a 2.8 or closed more than an f11 gets a little sloppy. In this demo, you can really see the chromatic aberration in the high contrast areas like the edges of the windows. I also found that Rokinon's 14 and 16mm lenses are really soft when you're wide open. They definitely have their limitations, but considering how cheap they are for cine primes, the tradeoff is worth it, especially if you know the lenses' limitations.
It's funny you mention this, because I just released a video on f-stops and using a light meter today. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/AFKI1GkoGk0/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video! Two questions. What was the target aperture setting on the camera... and does the buckling of the ND film when you hang it cause any problems as far as flaring the background or causing unwanted reflections?
Ideally, I wanted an open aperture close to 2.8 to achieve a shallow depth of field but since I did not have someone to pull focus, I closed the aperture a bit to maintain focus while I dollied in on the subject. I was able to reduce the strength of the ND filter in front of the lens when I closed the aperture to keep the same exposure. Regarding your second question, you do need to be careful when applying ND gel the to windows. The wind can blow it around and you can catch reflections from light sources.
![How to Light a Night Scene with Shane Hurlbut ASC [Part 1: Setting Up Your Key Light]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wDHoqne58AA/mqdefault.jpg)
You know what I like about this guy? His business model has him selling his instructional videos to the world's best film schools.
He's an award-winning director and cinematographer.
I don't know how these TH-camrs who call themselves experts in filmmaking who are anything but have such gigantic TH-cam channels when his guys like this on here I wish you'd put out more TH-cam content and blow them away because he's actually a real teacher a true professional
seems like he has a super low ego too - humble professional showing up for work today with his bes effort
Really nice and underrated content. People are rarely showing the whole process of cinematic lighting in all its glory. Much appreciated.
these were the kind of videos i had been searching for years. but never found such satisfactory videos. This is exactly what I had been looking for
Hands down the best cinematic lighting tutorial I have seen on YT yet 🙂👍
wow it makes such a huge difference ! it just goes to show it’s not the camera your using, it’s the lighting your using. very impressive.
lighting makes all the difference
i like how that guy was typing the whole time.. it was like watching a character animation.. his email was very thorough..
have never seen so much detailed lighting tutorial before.... I subscribed to the channel instantly...
Thank so you so much - I'm glad you found it useful!
@@FilmSkills if you worked a little more on the video tags, more people could find the video! ;)
I don't want to be the one who gives advice but doesn't tell anything, so I will give you some examples :D
Interior lighting for video, lighting daylight interior, interior cinematography, how to light a scene, advanced cinematography techniques, how to light interior scene, how to light an interior day scene.
You have 500 characters for the tags, make a good use of them and the views will come to quality content like this! (I was a user of FilmSkills long ago!)
Sames
I'm also bro
One of the best instructors I have seen on TH-cam regarding filmmaking contents. Thanks for great tutorials always.
OMG! Amaizing piece of work and art! Thank you very much! Really professional and easy way to speak and teach.
👍🏻 “Light and shadow of the filmmaker!” 🎥
Very educational post! When I imagine that EVERY scene has to be prepared so intensively, I literally get dizzy.
Luckily, my (micro) projects usually only have one or two perspectives. But I'm thinking about whether I shouldn't shed more (better) light on the matter. ☀️
One of the most thorough and professional videos I've ever seen on TH-cam! Thank you!
Wow this is the most practical video ever for lighting a scene... Thank you so much for this... Simple yet with a lot of information... good job!
I wish you were my cinematography teacher😆 awesome work💓 from India.
This is exactly how it is explained in film school, great work.
Gaffers tape is for attaching stuff to or marking your OWN equipment. Artist's Paper Tape is for taping stuff to walls and floors on location. Gaffers tape will remove paint and destroy the finish on hardwood floors. I use only the professional grade gaffers tape and have destroyed a trade show floor with it. Paper tape all the way. Otherwise, a great tutorial.
That's exactly right, but if you don't have paper tape, in a pinch you can tear off a piece of gaffers tape from the roll then stick and unstick it to your jeans a few times. This will make it much less sticky and won't pull off the paint or surface.
Really appreciated the details. This wasn't about a name brand type of light or piece of equipment but meat and potatoes filmmaking. Much appreciated.
Best cinematography content on youtube!
Fantastic! Finally real info from a professional
I never felt good with my results, I knew something was missing, when I saw this video, I felt myself crying with joy. thank you thank you thank you
On of the best pieces of tutorials I've watched
Wow. What a great video for a beginner to learn and experiment . Thank you so much
your content is really under rated, thanks a million... (the actor typed a lot of things :D)
WOW!!, thtat's Excellent, I wish I knew this techniques !!!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for these vids sir
i am so grateful for this.this is amazing
Awwsome tutorial. How do you know which numbers to aim for on the light meter?
Great tutorial. Thanks for posting this.
Man, you are seriously helpful. and seem like a super nice dude! Love your passion for light! All the best brother x
Thanks for all this free knowledge. Amazing to the point and not in weeds.
excellent... Love from Iran
Fix it in camera! Finesse it in post! Great videos Jason!
Thanks Rafael!
Thanks i had problems filming in open windows !!
A much needed tutorial
Amazing light video tutorial thank you!
You're very welcome!
amazing video, so good to find this information for free!
incredibly interesting and awesome
this is rare to find on youtube
This is extremely amazing, thank you sir for all your hard work!
Incredibly detailed tutorial, thanks.
Thanks for the video. Very good and something new that I’ve learned.
Great tutorial !!! Thanks a lot !!!
DOPE work
Fantastic! Thank you!
Great great great one...
Thanks for this! It was really informative !
Absolutely love these videos, learning as much from them as I've learned on set. Thank you!
That’s a hell of a tutorial man 👍
Awsome 🙂.please prepare this type of tutorials more in different situations
The full course at filmskills.com has 7 more scenes plus a dozen additional tutorials.
www.filmskills.com/cinematic-lighting-master-course/
Great teacher 🙏
Very nice and detail video, its rare to find such great tutorial on youtube.
In my opinion the thing that could have made this shot even better and is a great way to improve every shot is a little more color temperature contrast. Maybe put your camera on like 4000k for the overall image to be a little cooler, and put the key light on 6000k to warm up the subjet and make him pop out the frame.
It is not a critic for the video but an advice for helping beginners cinematographers.
this is amazing and much in detail....!! thums up champp...
Awesome thank you so much, with this video I learned quality knowledge about lighting 👍👍👍👍 appreciated
Really helpful thanks a lot
You're welcome!
great video. he was actually working on his laptop.😂
Love this! Thank you so much for sharing lighting technique in such detail!!
Wow... Enjoyed your Instructions
Thanks so much 😊
Terrific!!! well done.
Very informative Thanks 🤗
Just loved it brother... Thank you very much ❤️❤️
Needed more tutorial like this 👏
I thought the original image already looked pretty good, but holy shmoley the final look was beautiful
Just great! You should get more views!
Thank you for sharing the knowledge sir
Nice info and tutorial...
Glad it was helpful!
Which profile picture was shot sir? I am from Nepal 🇳🇵
muuuuuy bueno!
Great, thanks for the content!
thanks , fantastic video
great content
looks really nice, I woder if there was a way to use cutter flag to remove reflection of key light in windows that we can see at the beggining of the scene ?
If you notice, I did add the cutter in the final shot.
At 2:00 Can you explain how did you pull focus? I can´t even see the focus ring on the lens move.
Thanks!
Hey Byron, I didn’t rack the focus. The subject was within the depth of field throughout the entire move.
very nice!
This is great! May I ask where you purchase the ND for the windows and what is the name of it? Thank you
You can buy rolls of gels from FilmTools. If you live in LA, also check out Expendables Recycler. They sell partial rolls at a big discount and that’s where I get most of mine.
@@FilmSkills thank you I live in Indiana so I quess I won't be able to get it but thanks for reply your channel is very educational
superb
I love it. Tks u
lighting against big windows is very challenging, but thanks for this video
excellent
Ultimate 🥏
VERY USEFULL THANKS..
This guy kinda looks like Tommy from Power.
I LIKE IT
Great video, one thing I am confused about and wondered if you could clear up ...If you opened your iris all the way as suggested at 6:40 (which I think is 1.5 on your lens?) but measured your key light to be a little over 5.6?, your key was 4 and 1/2 stops overexposed and it looks like that? seems strange because it looks properly exposed to me.
Thanks!
You’re exactly right, however I chose to open my aperture all the way to achieve a shallow depth of field, and that would have over exposed the shot. But I used a neutral density filter instead to achieve the correct exposure. That way, I got the shallow depth of field I wanted all while properly exposing the shot.
These re incredibly helpful! You’re such a great teacher and I appreciate how you show things nearly in real time, like actually setting up each piece of equipment.
Thanks
I guess if you are on a tight schedule you couldn’t wait for the sun to go down and shoot later in the day/evening, so you had to tint the windows, right?
Superb content btw. Subscribed & following.
Amazing 🥰🥰
😘😘😘😘🥰🥰🥰😍😍😍 Thank you sir for your wonderful efforts. Its almost great practical and theoretical for us. 🙏 Its more than you get in film schools.
At 3:20 isn’t it possible just to reduce the iso to get a good exposure instead of the neutral filter?
You could, but I only use the ISO for exposure as a last resort. Keep in mind that the camera’s imaging sensor has been manufactured to operate in it’s sweet spot, which is known as the “native ISO.” Increasing or decreasing your ISO does not let more light into the camera lens, it simply adjusts the brightness of the image after it’s been captured. That’s why, using a neutral density filter (or aperture) to alter the light before it reaches the imaging sensor will produce a better image.
@@FilmSkills Thanks! Perfect explanation, I get it now
Great !
Could you have done the same with out the lightmeeter, just looking at the monitor?
I wouldn’t. You never know if the monitor is properly calibrated. If it’s too bright, you will be underexposing all your shots. If it’s too dark, you will be overexposing them.
@@FilmSkills Damn, now i need to add another expencive thing to my gear ;)
Great tutorial/breakdown but I was wondering why you couldn’t position the diffusion frame at an angle to his face to create the shape and contrast rather than adding another light?
The choice wasn't to simply add more light, but to sculpt it. The first light source through the 4x4 frame was to create the key light and set the proper brightness for the actor's skin tones. The second side light was to sculpt the light to create a more three-dimensional feel. This is a technique I often use to make the lighting look more natural and less like a typical three-point lighting set-up.
What's the big led lighting panel? Does this compare as far as size? Nanlite LumiPad 25 Soft LED Light Panel
Chromatic aberration were noticable throughout the shot. Was it there deliberately or as an artifact created by Rokinon lenses?
Haha, no, I didn't intentionally add the chromatic aberration. The Rokinon DS series lenses are OK when you're working in the middle 2/3 of the aperture range, but anything more open than a 2.8 or closed more than an f11 gets a little sloppy. In this demo, you can really see the chromatic aberration in the high contrast areas like the edges of the windows.
I also found that Rokinon's 14 and 16mm lenses are really soft when you're wide open. They definitely have their limitations, but considering how cheap they are for cine primes, the tradeoff is worth it, especially if you know the lenses' limitations.
Thanks so much :-)
U r a master
Very helpful. Might you have a tutorial on f stop ratios and using a light meter? Btw, is the camera digital? Thanks for the tutorial.
It's funny you mention this, because I just released a video on f-stops and using a light meter today. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/AFKI1GkoGk0/w-d-xo.html
This is a great video.
should you blocking and filming in the same day?
Excellent video! Two questions. What was the target aperture setting on the camera... and does the buckling of the ND film when you hang it cause any problems as far as flaring the background or causing unwanted reflections?
Ideally, I wanted an open aperture close to 2.8 to achieve a shallow depth of field but since I did not have someone to pull focus, I closed the aperture a bit to maintain focus while I dollied in on the subject. I was able to reduce the strength of the ND filter in front of the lens when I closed the aperture to keep the same exposure. Regarding your second question, you do need to be careful when applying ND gel the to windows. The wind can blow it around and you can catch reflections from light sources.
I know it's out of subject but please which cameras did you use?
And yeah, thanks for this video
Never mind. Sony fs5
can someone please explain what he means by increasing the contrast ratio by 1 and 1/2 stops to one? is that a general rule?
What a great tutorial this was. Completely demystifies so much of the lighting process.
Very glad the TH-cam algorithm threw up your channel!
Awesome, thank you!