Royal Enfield (J Series 350s) D.I.D gold chain upgrade! Realtime fitting of controversial Clip link!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Split link or clip link motorcycle chains have become a somewhat undeserved controversial topic among motorcyclists these days when compared to rivetted chains. Here I give a full Realtime tutorial on how to fit one and how to avoid future issues.
PLEASE NOTE!
This is a lengthy detailed video intended to assist the inexperienced chain fitter!
Hitchcock's J series DID chain Kits. accessories.hi...
Chain breaker/press kit. amzn.to/3S8KsL7
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Good heaven Stu, l remember my mother's reaction when she saw what l had on her cooker way back in Ye Olden days! ''Take that filthy thing out of the house'', or words to that effect..... l still used the same system 60 years later for my Tritons non O-ring split link chain here in Spain. Nothing wrong with split link chains, its all a matter of maintenance, both adjustment and lube... You are in desperate need of a Bike table/lift Stu...There comes a time in ones life when crawling about on the ground is a real pain...literally!..... l Know this because I'm in a similar situation. Even the relatively simple task of changing oil and filter has become a real chore...Greetings from España.
I've still got my tin of Linklyfe that I used in the 1960's!!
When I had Shane drive motorcycles we had the JC Whitney catalog full of motorcycle parts and the best part was you looked up your motorcycle and they showed you the exact same that you needed for your bike along with sprockets and everything included as a set or individual. Always got good value out of the parts and things I bought from JC Whitney I wish they were still around
Ah, you’ve jogged my memory of a LinkLife chain grease in a round tin, and popping it on the gas hob when my mum was out!
Very good! I was always told to remember the clip as a fish the round end as the head and the split end as the tail, so when fitting just think of a fish it always travels with its head in the direction of flow.
Wow! What a simple way to remember this. Thank you so much. Now, I will remember this for life and pass it on to my boys too.
Exactly right, and exactly as we do it when replacing chains on farm machinery!
Hi Stuart.
You don't need a chain splitter for removing the old chain. If you make sure that the rivet heads are ground completely flat to the face of the outer plate, you can simply 'flip' the plate off with a screwdriver.
On the subject of the tins of 'solid' lube. I tried one once. Ended up tipping the contents all over the cooker and kitchen floor. I only got away with it because I hadn't been married very long, and it was my first offence!
Extremely valuable information, that'll available for future bikers for years to come! Not many channels take the time and trouble to share these techniques and information. Great video! Thanks uncle Stu!
Hi Stuart,
For a few minutes there I thought you had sub contracted the chain change video to Sir Geoffery Boycott. LOL🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Your patience, perseverance and attention to detail is commendable.
Please excuse the slagging Ozzie humour.
Love your work. Always learn something.
Never had an issue with split links. In fact always kept a few in my toolbag. Have managed to recreate a chain in an emergency with several split links.
Zip pull on my jacket for many years
Stu, I ride a '99 Magna in North Mississippi, US. Bought it with 27k miles. Tires, sprockets, and EK chain 3k mi ago. I have always used a drift punch (often called a "nail") to get the ground off link out. My chain came with a new to me twist off nut affair. I'm 71 and never had a problem with a clip. I did use it as directed, but didn't trust it so used a clip. I mashed the side plate on the o rings with small vice grips (or needle nose pliers). Don't remember. Got over 3k mi on her. I enjoy your slow presentation. Us old guys have to teach the new kids how to save money and lives by methods we learned from old guys. Good day.
Good job, sir! I used to race motocross and most of the serious racers used D.I.D. chains, I never had any problem. Great product!
Great video as usual, some great tips. Had a stock chain my meteor 350 for 10k miles, few broken O-Rings at this point. Also opted for the DID X-Ring chain from Hichcocks.
brings back memories, having ridden shaft drive pan europeans for at least ten years, now belt driven harleys. great vid Stu, love your vlogs.
Your bike being the 350 classic. The gold chain goes very well with all the chrome. Looks great
Hi Stuart, the round tin of chain lube was, as I far as I recall, called Linklyfe. Only rich folk would wipe off the excess, most would dangle the chain above the tin while still hot a let the excess drip back into the tin. I'm sure I still have a tin somewhere that I won in a quiz in the sixties. I now use Tutoro chain oilers on my Enfields, adjustment is required much less frequently, the chain is always reasonably clean and lasts much longer. Edward.
G'day Stu, hopefully Hitchcocks offer you a belt drive kit to put on your Interceptor. I put one on my GT and it is the best modification I have done to my bike. It eliminates chain snatch and noise, regular adjustments are a thing of the past and no more gunk. The bike is far smoother to ride and this is most noticeable when doing U turns. 😊
Just carry on with your videos as you do. They're not too long as far as I'm concerned. I like the way you're explaining things - it's your signature, Stuart. And because it's not all about IKEA stuff, I'm sure others appreciate your work going into details, too.
I'm a Swiss biker and always do/did DIYs. I like your calm voice and your dilect. Thank you very much. Cheers
Glad ya got some summer weather in Yorkshire mate here in Australia it's winter cold, even on the Gold Coast of Queensland.
Enjoying your videos Stu..❤
@rossdarling5975 Middle of winter here in Sydney 🇦🇺 and 20 degrees C …can’t complain about that.
I always have a little laugh when I hear poms talk about ‘riding season’
Couple of extra points. Too tight a chain is worse than a bit slack, as it can snap or take out the gearbox bearing. Also if the sprockets are at all worn, the chain and sprockets should be changed as a set.
Done 6000km and had no problems with the chain on my Meteor 350 stretching. Clean it and lube it every 6 months or more frequently if it has been ridden through mud and dirt. Did one adjustment at 2000km just too get familier with the procedure even thoughit did not need adjusting. There is a mark on the swing arm of the Meteor which acts as a locating point for measuring, makes for consistency. Good video on chain fitting, keep up the good work.
My t120 has factory fitted chain still fitted, I lub the chain every 3 tankfuls of fuel use, gearbox oil put it on the chain when chain is warm after a ride, leave it over night then wipe off excess oil in the morning!
My 2017 T120 is still running original EK chain and sprockets at 48 000kms (30 000miles). Rarely ridden in rain or on dirt roads, and I mainly lube with Maxima Chain Wax.
Not too much detail ! I've never changed & fitted a new chain - ridden a shaft driver Boxer all my life. Now am responsible for maintaining the chains of 2 MCs :) So, for me, what you have shot and explained is excellent. Thank you.
This is going to help a lot of people Stu, very good and thorough video as it needed to be. The original 'DID stamped' chain on the Interceptor needed frequent adjustment and had surface rust when left in the garage for a week despite being lubricated. I changed it for a DID 525 gold and it's like night and day.. I haven't needed to adjust it now for at least 3000km..incredible and the quality is really great and will last a VERY long time. I riveted mine at home successfully but if I were to do it again I'd probably use the split link..even on the Interceptor the power (or lack of) isn't an issue.
P.S. I remember you did a video once on the standard Interceptor Pirelli tyres.. the same.. those tyres didn't last long like the standard chain despite Pirelli and DID, respected names, being present
If you don’t have a chain riveter, you can use a club hammer at the back of the link & a use a ball peen hammer on the protruding pin. A couple of taps will mushroom the pin over to stop the outer plate coming off. That’s been my way, no fails in 50+ years.
Loved this video - great to see a job done in real time - maybe more of similar occasionally in future please????
Hey Stuart, I really love your videos. They are full of valuable informations and never boring or to long.
I ‘ll never sell my RE 350, it will last forever.
Many thanks to you. I look forward to every new week.
Kind regards from Munich
Marcus, 61 years old
Never ever had a problem with split links. As I understand it, it’s high powered bikes that use riveted links, certainly was on my GSX1400. GT750 & 380, split link DID chains forever. I do find they need replacing quite often, if I want the quietest running final drive. They’re far from worn out. I just like the feel and sound of a well fitting chain and sprocket set, just cleaned, set and lubed!
hi Stuart, good video. i used to look at the threads on the tool, and the thickness of the clip link.this way i could guage turns to distance pressed in.
Thanks Stu for this do it yourself video. It will help saving some money. Very good to see all the details as always on your filming it. Love from Holland again 🙏
That's a fancy catch cup! I also enjoy your how-to videos. Ride safe!
I lost count at number of times I boiled up my OSSA MAR trials bikes chain in Duckhams chain guard on the stove in the 70s
My 350 classics chain is fine and yes I lube it and check the tension regularly.
It has not stretched at all after it's first 300 miles bedding in .
Now 3000 miles.
DID always my choice and absolutely nothing wrong with split links as Stuart says been used for 100 plus years on everything from mopeds to racers.
A piece of the hardtail frame on my 1965 Triumph TR6 broke and fell away and my good quality original equipment Reynolds Shane was holding the back end of the bike together and you can see where the sprocket would be shaved by the chain because of the superior quality of the metal that the Reynolds chain was made from. The Reynolds chain sales representative got a good laugh out of that story when they told him that I swear by Reynolds change on my vintage British motorcycles.
1970's I used that chain lubricant tin - boiled on the home cooker! (don't get caught!) Wait until ithe air bubbles stop and retreat to the garage - hang chain from rafter so more goes back in the tin. Get an old peice of worn chain to copy your feed method to make refitting easy. It is still being sold as 'traditinal chain oil tins.' Last 30 years I have been on mainly shaft drive Yamahe/BMW but waiting for the Royal Enfield Himalayan tubeless next month so will be back to chain lubes. Will be fitting a Loobmand oiiler which I have used before - great device and it kept my 20k miles Kawasaki ZRX1100 and 1200's on the original chain better than any 'boil in the tin' and copes well with any road conditions
I thought you done a great job there stu i certainly learned something from it as I’ve never done a new chain swap,watching this has given me the confidence to give it a go! Thanks 👍🏻
Stu, thank for the video.... I hope you didn’t scare too many people from having a go!
Only 'chain' I had split apart on me was the rubber belt on my old Kwacker GPZ305. Always had split links, and not a single problem in over 30 years of riding.
On a relatively low-powered bike like the Enfield a split link is perfectly fine, they're not at all dangerous as long as they're fitted correctly. Riveted joining links basically didn't exist until relatively recently, pretty much every British and Japanese bike in the 60s/70s had split link chains as standard, the old Norton Commandos had around 60 BHP and I've never had a problem with split link chains on my Commandos.. Also, with a split link, if you keep your old chain in a plastic bag you can use it for pulling your new/current chain off the bike for cleaning etc.. and for refitting it when it's clean..
I must do all motorcycle and truck repair maintenance myself to run equipment with confidence. Especially running my bikes.
Great video , thanks for the new chain feed on tip , and the excess chain spray catcher on the can is a good idea as well ,
Cheers .
After grinding off the rivet heads, I used a screwdriver blade to separate the link. To press-fit the new link I used a mole vice grip wrench, which worked fine. These days I run a Moto Guzzi, so no longer have to worry about such things.
Morning I think you should have put bike in gear while joining links save wheel from moving and they could of made the clip in gold colour small things but would help stop wheel moving and would be gold all way round chain good video intuitive video for those who have not put a chain on before and thinking of diy and save a few£ take care ride safe
Good morning Stuart, you showed that very, very good. Thank you.
Hi Stu, going back to riding when you're older. These days bike schools teach you to swing your leg over with the kick stand down and it's expected for you to mount with the kick stand down on the Mod 1 motorcycle test also. Times they are a changing. Love and follow the blogs. Keep up the good work. 😁👍
Hi Stu
Thanks for the video, maybe I should change me chain too😂have now done 5000km on my SM650 since May - Just love that machine more and more
Please keep the videos coming👍thanks
😅Its MrT it's great that u brought up rear chain maintenance and fitting I actually took of solid link off and used split link system it was all split link in the 60s 70s 80s
The chain fitted on my RE 350 is a DID chain no problems so far just use good engine oil
To lube the plates and outside rollers and before DID there was Reynolds chain the best
Never had too much trouble with chains. But rear wheel spokes snapping at the hub is another matter.
Evening stu...love the comment about cooker and saucepan with chain in I used to do it too...😅😅😅
Mother told me off too but riding a trail suziki 250 it used to clog with sand...cooking it on the cooker worked a treet....😅
You done it now as my wife is a fan since you introduced Paula to the channel she says why didn’t Paula help hold the bike upright when you checked the chain are woman no good for that had to explain she was at work 😂
Done the link life fluid on the stove at the age of 16
Took it off the stove with two pliers on either side of the tin then dropped it on the kitchen floor DOH!
Can I ask the point of checking the tension of the old chain before replacing it just wondered if I’m missing something
Thanks Uncle Stu it’s like I was there with ya
I had night terrors about the risk of doing that. Never happened, but boy would I have been in trouble 😮
Great vid, it's always good seeing you spannering. I've every faith in split links, no problem at all with them on smaller bikes. Don't get the controversy about them at all. Obviously different if you've got one of those 200 bhp monsters! I do wish you'd wear mechanics gloves though. Dermatitis is rubbish.
A properly fitted split link is as good as a riveted 'soft link', if not better. I used them on 150mph sprint bikes with no issues (along with non-O ring chain ’cos O rings sap power… and when every BHP counts…)
I put a new chain on the interceptor with a cheap rivet tool of Ali express, don't use it to break the old rivet, use a grinder, easy to do as Stu shows and not damage anything if you are careful, . the cheap tool was fine for fitting new rivet, follow instructions about crimping the rivet head to the correct diameter and that the rivet moves smoothly, you should be fine. Plenty of youtube vids about it.
Nice wok professionally done
For measuring, I made a stubby piece of wood on which I’d made clear marks at 20, 25, 30mm. I can see at a glance where I am. Adjusting the chain risks losing wheel alignment, especially if you overtighten the chain and have to knock the wheel forward again before approaching the correct tension.
Dremel type tool every time! They’re brilliant.
That’s a real Yorkshire cutting disc there, Stu 😊
I used a pin punch to extract the link, after I’d ground off the riveted piece. You need a lump hammer held behind the chain as a dolly.
Been riding shaft driven BMW's for 46 years, but now I have 2 RE's and a 310 GS added to the 2 BMW's- 5 in all. The 50 minutes flew by. Will be 👀 again later. The best movie and rerun movie ever made. 👍👍🫡👍👍. I learned so much today. Thanks for the video.
An excellent (S)tutorial. Methodical, thorough. An equally good chain you have there too.
There's some in-built protection as regards over-crushing O rings, thankfully.
The bush protrudes by a given dimension to set the side plate positioning, and peace of mind. Lol.
Very nicely done. 👍
Have done ove 40000kms on my RE classic 500. Didn't have any trouble with the chain. I clean it and lube it regularly. Have been thinking of installing a DID. After this video, i am sure i will change it this week. Thanks Stu. Good Video
Hello a few Triumphs have the same problems with there chains , mine was a rust magnet , so I changed mine to a DID gold chain , not a problem since in 3000 miles , always fitted a turori chain oiler to mine as well no vacuum or electrics needed and easy fit 😊😊👍👍
Fantastic video. Thank you for this comprehensive walkthrough. Could you please do a video on chain slack adjustment on the classic 350? I lack a bit of confidence doing it and I find that your methodical approach to tasks really helps me to understand what I need to do. Thank you.
Enjoyed the video. I have had a Himalayan for over 4000 miles and have had no issues with my chain. Bike is closing in on 7000 miles.
By 'eck Stuart, you need a bike lift! This stuff doesn't get any easier as we get older. Great video for people that haven't done the job before. 👍
ill consider it when im confined to a wheelchair!
@@stuartfillingham 😁
@@stuartfillingham When I can no longer lay on the floor to do an oil change I am buying a motorcycle lift table. It will pay for itself in 3 years versus taking the bike to a garage 3 times a year for oil changes. Then when I sell the lift I will likely get back 50% of what I paid for it.
Use regular pliers to put on the split link. The jaws wont slip off as easily as needle nose pliers do.
Stu, with all that grunting and groaning you could do the sound overs for an instructional video for a Karma Sutra CD 😂
Nice video! Just a remark: it might be an idea to carefully put the o-rings on the inner side of the chain (the side that is out of sight) around the ridge on the inner plate before inserting the link. I suppose that lessens the risk of crushing the o-rings between the outer plate and the ridge on the inner plate. I hope I made myself clear since English isn't my native language.
buy shi7e, buy thrice - DID can't go wrong - as for split links, used them for 40 years and never had an issue, the only chain that ever broke on me was on my GSXR750 back in 97 and that was a riveted chain....FWIW it is worth i use the grease on the actual rubber rings, not the link
Do my chain on the CB500 Hornet every 2 weeks, which is approx 300 miles in all weathers, just to clean the old lube or wax off and put new on. Hate replacing chains/sprockets. The belt drives on my BMW F650CS and F800GT were great, no excuse to still be using chains for anything but tiny HP increases, or even have then fully enclosed like the old MZ system
Absolutely brilliant video! I wonder if a rev counter would help a lot of people give their chain a longer life as there's a sweet spot so to speak of changing gear etc? Changing at the too low an engine speed will cause the chain to snatch as you will know.
I run a tutoro chain oiler on all my bikes. My Interceptor has I think 8k. My Hornet 6k. My 500 classic had 16k when I chopped it in. All on std chains with minimal adjustment.
Morning Stewart. Around 1981 or 1982 i bought a heavy duty chain splitter for £45 or there abouts. I still have it today and it works. Anytime i have replaced a drive chain ive always used a split link without any problems whatsoever. I used to lub my chains with a Castrol oil from work. A Cresta 3001 oil i think it was called, very dark and heavy. And it stuck to the chain like glue in all weathers. Safe riding sir 👍😊.
600cc sportsbikes can go up to a 130hp is some cases.
So I reckon that chain will be strong enough to deal with 20 horses;-)
Another good video Stu. I’ve always used split links and never had a problem. Even so, I used to carry a spare just in case. I must admit that I’ve not had to fit an x ring chain yet as a mechanic friend has done them.
Great as usual! Thank you for the close views ! I prefer let my mechanic do it when I have to change the rear tyre for example because it is not much working time more to pay. Something that shorten the chain life is... max speed! So my GSX 1400 chain is a big one! But as I never kept a over 100 mph speed for more than 5 minutes, I still didn't change a chain at more than 30'000 miles. Of course I take care of it
I am on my way over now with my W800, hope you could show me this process on my bike!😂 thanks for ensuring that I will have the dealer do this one for me! 😊 I would have to buy three chains to complete this myself. It was triggering anger issues just watching you do it.
Great Job there Stu 👍 especially laying on the floor and filming, not easy😊
It was good that 😊😊
Atb phil
We i saw the time of the video, i was like did i see it right 50 minutes. Then saw the title of realtime fitting of chain clip. On that basis it is really a short video 😂
@@nigel-rs6ny it is , simply because the wear and wear in all these components are interrelated. A worn chain would wear the sprockets and vice versa. Which will then began a cycle. If you have some spare cash would absolutely recommend doing both.
They absolutely should be changed as a set. Most people never do.
Thanks Stu. Really helpful and the clearest explanation I’ve come across on chain adjustment and replacement. I’m fine with bicycle chains but so useful to extend to motorcycle chains. Straightforward job with a few extra tools. Interested in comments on sprocket life v chains. Bicycles tended to get through 3 chains per sprocket set and clearly regular cleaning, lubrication and adjustment is key.
I have also read comments about the short chain life and rusting of the Himalayan chain. One fellow did mention that about half of his miles were on gravel and that he didn't keep up with cleaning and lubricating it. The original chain on my Himalayan uses the clip master link. Mine has been in service for over 10,000 miles and has required few adjustments.
Ive done 7,000 miles on mine now Stuart,and a lot of those miles have included touring Scotland and Wales and North Yorkshire and Northumbria, loaded with camping gear, and I'm still on the original chain ,I've probably adjusted it about three times in all that mileage and it gets ridden hard !
Maintenance wise I just oil it every 300 miles or so with 90's gear oil , it takes five minutes at the most , It really isn't the messy chore that a lot of people whine about, and it doesn't end up all over your tyre , swingarm and legs if you apply the righ amount! I carry a small 60ml squeezy bottle with a nozzle on it in my pannier bag on long trips, like my 740 miles trip to Scotland.
Premature chain wear is down to poor maintenance and laziness...oh and people worrying about getting a bit of muck behind their nails! 😅
Well I look after my chains and the RE ones are poor
@@MegaGrumpyoldman I assume that the quality of the chains are simply very variable. I certainly don't look after my chains with the same conscientiousness as Stuart (get her in first gear and spray a bit of lube while idling -- end of story) and after more than 6300 miles it is still in pretty good condition. Similar story with Interceptor gear boxes, most are allegedly working great others are pathetic.
Only the speedos of the 350 Classic differ. There is great consistency on offer here: They are rubbish.
Nearly done 9k on my Meteor original chain still got plenty of adjustment.
If I’m binning the chain, Uncle Stu, I just putting grinding disc straight through both side plates when the link is off the sprocket and it just falls off - 10 secs 🙂👍.
then how do you thread the new chain on? you have no open link to connect up to!
@@stuartfillingham I see you link to link solution but most of my chain changing has been on dirt bikes so threading the new chain is often easy 😊.
And on my Classic 500 I did a conversion to belt drive; the Legundary kit from India had sprockets and carbon belt and was so smooth, never needed any adjustment or lubrication.
Great video! I have hardly done this jobs since I had my old Kawasaki single. After that most of my bikes have been belt driven. Now however I have both a belt driven AND a chain driven bike (RE) so the video may very likely become handy. 😊👍
Chain (slack) adjustment is needed fairly soon after replacing with a new chain... All riders shpuld keep an eye on this. It WILL get a LITTLE slack after a few hundred miles.
Once "boken in" it should be fairly stable.
Remember, depending upon the gunk you use to lubricate the chain it will appear stiffer.
After CLEANING ...with a soft toothbrush (kerosene\parafin - wipe it off asap) it will become very floppy (hopefully)
.. now you can adjust the slack & alignment etc
Hello Stuart, Love the video, it takes the fear out of chain fitting. I much prefer split link chains to the new fangled sealed chains.
2000 miles on my 350 Classic so far,adjusted it once at the first service [300 miles] and it's stayed correct since,I keep it clean and lube with just GT85.
Terrific job on this video. Huge help. I'm replacing the OEM chain on my Bonneville with a DID soon. I'll have to cut it to length and the plan is to rivet it on. I do have the DID rivet tool. I'm told the DVD tool makes it nearly impossible to rivet too hard or too light. Wish me luck!
Good luck!
Hi Stuart I have no idea why people don't fit chain oilers when they buy their bikes. I fitted a Scott oiler to my hayabusa from new, the chain was still in good condition at 22000 miles when I sold the bike
1,700 miles with my Hunter 350 and the chain is still within specs, I haven't had to adjusted yet.
I learnt a lot watching this. Thank you.
I remember the chains on my Ducati's and I never liked them and the noise on them at the highway. For this reason I was searching for an alternative and prefered a Guzzi Griso over Triumph or W800. (even when it has the most beautiful engine available today). I will be expecting my red/chrome within a few weeks but got me the Mtechincs belt drive. With only 300km on the clock it will be freed from chain soon.
Love your vids and they are of good use soon. Got the cruise seat first! Your vids made me get hard ceramic coating(12months) last week AND a rain water reservoir to store condensed water out of my dehumidfier (aquarium owner) to reduce water spots. I'll get the frame caps as well. I have a 24L compressor ready so I guess it's everything I need to protect her before I even ride it. Slowly I do realise the chrome versions do need additional care investments to age well hence this demo version isn't sold too easely.
Good to see your bike is not spotless today🤭.
2022 Interceptor 650, at 5000 miles and my chain stretched like elastic on one ride. My regime is to return from a weekly 300 mile ride, spray the chain with Motul Race lube, put the bike in the garage. Next day, clean the bike, relube the chain again. On the last but one ride on the chain, I put the bike away wet, next morning the chain was orange rusty. No problem, cleaned, oiled with engine oil and a brush, then sprayed it. Next ride, it stretched terribly. Obviously poor quality!
I replaced the chain with a DID 525 VX with rivet link, which has easily lasted another 6000 miles with minimal adjustment, and will be fine until replacement chain and sprockets. I always change them 15000 miles after fitting as a service item.
Great Video. gives me more confidence and knowledge to do mine. thank you
DID gold on my gs550 has not even needed adjustment in 3k.. I clean it and lube with Wurth dry lube every 200 miles, sooner if it is wet. It is only a 5 min job.
Excellent tutorial, that's a sharp looking chain!
I use chain monkey always does a great job i like you prefer did
Uncle Stu, there are simple chain wear measurement tools.. Lineal on eccentric at the end and are graduated at % wear.. 1.5% replace. I don't have one of them for motorcycles yet but I'm using similar ones for my bicycle chain up do 1% there.
Great video Stu. As relevant to any bike, as well as the one you are were working on here today, so I watched to the end. Some great tips here which could be missed by people watching only a small part of it. On a different subject, I've fitted the Fuel X Lite to my Classic 500 and the difference, even stationary was pretty much instant. The engine was much smoother from the get go. I've put a short video up on my Facebook page if you are interested. I'm easy to find and my page is open to the public and so it's easy to casually view. I fitted it to the pillion frame under the saddle, which is clearly on view too.
ive actually got one somewhere that ive been meaning to fit for both classic! thanks for the reminder!
@@stuartfillingham I've only just done it and it's a very easy intstallation on the 500 Stu, once you get the tank off. I cable tied the two sets of 'new' connectors at the front of the bike together, to secure them out of sight under the tank (you can just see this to the left of my third picture) and the rear pair of joined connectors (which I secured next to the Fuel X unit), I neatly bound with black insulation tape to protect and cover up the brightly coloured plugs and wiring. This should make the unit virtually invisible beneath the sprung seat once fitted. I utilised one of the two existing earthing points, which can be seen in my fourth picture ahead of the pillion frame, so as to not have to use the negative battery terminal directly. There was no other place the unit could be fitted on the 500 as far as I could see, except perhaps to where the toolkit is stored but It is as tight as a drum where I've placed it and using minimal cable ties, it isn't going anywhere. It will be completely invisible if placed there on the new 350 I think. The short video shows the unit settled on map 7 when counting the blinking LED's. Map 1 is the leanest, map 3 is stock and map 10 is the richest. The benefits of it for an air cooled Euro 4 bike are obvious. I also only use E5 fuel in my bikes, which burns slightly hotter than E10 and so will help there. I'm not sure what the benefit of it will be in a Euro 5 bike because the bike's main ECU is more restrictive but I imagine they've found a way of working around it.
Interesting to relearn this as I haven't changed a chain since a bicycle as my previous motorcycle had a shaft drive.
Excellent video with clear instructions
My 650 interceptor chain developed tight spots at 15,000 klms i replaced it with a new RK chain and on the box it says Do not use a chain brush to clean it , AH well then who recentley bought a chain brush ,Guilty your Honour.
Yea split link or rivet, I changed mine on the interceptor because the chain link plates were rusting ! Like yourself I used D.I.D., but they're was no split link option with it, so used riveting soft link, it's no big deal, there is "spread" figure info, so just measure pin diameter before and after compression with tool using Vernier to ensure correct amount of " spread" when on parameter job done! Seems to be an excellent quality chain 😊
Thank you for that. I think I'll stick with my shaft drive ST1300....
Brilliant video as always Stuart and I have TUTORO automatic adjustable chain oilers on both my bikes 😌👍🏻
Wonderfull Thank you!
I like belt drive on my Sportster . It lasts a hundred thousand miles plus without any maintenance at all.
Great detailed description, I am wondering what is the sensible as opposed to marketing wisdom about sprockets and whether you should change them when the chain is at the end of its life?