Very nice, I bought one 15 years ago, usual non turbo, slow axles, I like it, I smile every time I drive. It now has 48,000kms. I have just had it repainted in Mercedes truck green.....with black chassis and wheels.
hi there i am looking to buy my first unimog in the near future to explore australia,as i have never owned this vehicle your comment mekes me think you are a wealth of information.What do you think i should be looking out for tht tells me not to buy?? many thanksfor any opinion you wish to share.
@@fuzzzeballs Learning curve....Have you owned a 4x4 before?? Everything is just the same as say a Landrover/Landcruiser....but Bigger, much bigger and consequently heavier. Do they rust, mine didn't (due to having been a radio wagon and kept indoors. But they rust on the bottom of the two doors and in the panel above the wing and under the door, new repair sections can be bought.. Oh and the German Army body sides do rust? no idea why, they are well fixed with plenty of drain holes. Likewise the wooden floor can rot, worst part is cutting off all the myriad of bolts holding the wood on they will all be rusted solid. If you get an air leak from a valve, don't despair, Mercedes ones cost the earth, but take off the valve, find the part number and make (might be Bendix etc) and you will find it is a commercial part, used on many trucks trailers, (I bought one off internet, Mercedes wanted hundreds of $$$$$$$ it cost me $50 and it was exactly the same part, made by Bendix......Mercedes just put it in a Mercedes Box and add several hundreds of dollars to the price...it's exactly the same part. Brake pads.....you can buy Unimog specific pads $$$$$$$$ or the car versions, as used on Mercedes saloons of the late 60's to early 80's (you just have to chamfer the edges and leave out the anti squeal shims (yes they will squeal loud - but all trucks used to do that). alternatively as the car pads are a bit thicker, you can just shave a bit of thickness off the pads and keep the anti sqeal shims in. Brake calibers can get a bit scary....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ but you can buy kits to refurbish them.....and it's not a difficult job, they are designed for this to be done - in the field - so to speak. When I change the pads over I always pull up the rubber protectors on the caliber pistons and work some fresh brake specific grease into them....never had a problem. Rubber gaiters, two lots to worry about...one lot on the torque tube, buy the good ones or they will only last a year or two, they are all split and bolt up together not a difficult job. But on the back axle there will be two gaiters, one each side and they are tricky to get on.....do not let them deteriorate or they will mess up the air brake chamber costing real $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$......there are I believe 3 types of gaiters and mine were the most expensive - sods law - and where I live I could only get the Mercedes real deal gaiters. $$$$$$$$. The official manual. INVALUABLE....so don't die of shock when you see how much they cost......they come as two big grey folders, heavy things, but they will save you that weight in cash money. (The manuals talk about a lot of special service tools - despair not - most of these tools can be made up or adapted from other tools by any competent handyman). I have owned my Unimog U1300L for some 15 years and actually drove it from UK to Eastern Poland without a problem.....in that 15 years it has cost me one short brake line, the valve I talked about and one caliper (which I bought before exploring the possibility of refurbishment).....(If you are travelling - it might be a good idea to keep a spare refurbished caliper in your spares kit, I know I would). Now the BIG costs. Tyres........the standard tyres that they come with are good all rounders but not very good off road. If you win the lottery Michelin MX or speed rated Agribib are the way to go, but I chose to go up a couple of sizes for extra ground clearance and bought speed rated Indian made Industrial Chevron tyres. If you intend to do any serious off roading, then chevrons every time. I have been getting 19 MPG (imperial) since I bought it.....loaded or unloaded, seems to make no difference........I suspect that the turbo.fast axles models used a bit more fuel because you are encouraged to push it a bit more. I have owned Landrovers that did less to the gallon than my Unimog, so I am more than happy. Oil (lots) filters not so bad one big oil filter but because everybody forgets the filters on the side of the engine which of course are the washable kind.....you take them out and wash them in Gasoline/kerosene etc....don't get caught out....also put some of those little clear filters in the line and keep a few spares around. Ask any questions you may have.
@@Pinzpilot101 i appreciate the time on your answer, i have a light weight landrover 24 volt in the shed so you might say yes i understand where you are coming from, i am just planning at the minuite for a venture my be 12 to 16 months in the future,not quite sure if i will buy in australia or transport from the uk....even though i live in hungary at the minuite....life is an adventure, i will keep you in mind as time progrsses,thanks again!
@@fuzzzeballs OK. I,m not very far away from you in world terms as I am in the Podkarpacie region of Eastern Poland......as things come up just feel free to ask.
schönes auto..hab meinen auch schon 7 jahre...allerdings mit 405/70 R 20 reifen und FM1 shelter. mit den 335ern hab ich mich mal dermaßen im schlamm festgefahren..mit den 405ern nie
göttlich 💪🏽
Die haben immer so viel Spaß gemacht....hätte gern einen aber ich habe zuviel Angst vor unüberschaubaren Unterhaltskosten. :(
Very nice, I bought one 15 years ago, usual non turbo, slow axles, I like it, I smile every time I drive. It now has 48,000kms. I have just had it repainted in Mercedes truck green.....with black chassis and wheels.
hi there i am looking to buy my first unimog in the near future to explore australia,as i have never owned this vehicle your comment mekes me think you are a wealth of information.What do you think i should be looking out for tht tells me not to buy?? many thanksfor any opinion you wish to share.
@@fuzzzeballs Learning curve....Have you owned a 4x4 before?? Everything is just the same as say a Landrover/Landcruiser....but Bigger, much bigger and consequently heavier. Do they rust, mine didn't (due to having been a radio wagon and kept indoors. But they rust on the bottom of the two doors and in the panel above the wing and under the door, new repair sections can be bought.. Oh and the German Army body sides do rust? no idea why, they are well fixed with plenty of drain holes. Likewise the wooden floor can rot, worst part is cutting off all the myriad of bolts holding the wood on they will all be rusted solid. If you get an air leak from a valve, don't despair, Mercedes ones cost the earth, but take off the valve, find the part number and make (might be Bendix etc) and you will find it is a commercial part, used on many trucks trailers, (I bought one off internet, Mercedes wanted hundreds of $$$$$$$ it cost me $50 and it was exactly the same part, made by Bendix......Mercedes just put it in a Mercedes Box and add several hundreds of dollars to the price...it's exactly the same part. Brake pads.....you can buy Unimog specific pads $$$$$$$$ or the car versions, as used on Mercedes saloons of the late 60's to early 80's (you just have to chamfer the edges and leave out the anti squeal shims (yes they will squeal loud - but all trucks used to do that). alternatively as the car pads are a bit thicker, you can just shave a bit of thickness off the pads and keep the anti sqeal shims in. Brake calibers can get a bit scary....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ but you can buy kits to refurbish them.....and it's not a difficult job, they are designed for this to be done - in the field - so to speak. When I change the pads over I always pull up the rubber protectors on the caliber pistons and work some fresh brake specific grease into them....never had a problem. Rubber gaiters, two lots to worry about...one lot on the torque tube, buy the good ones or they will only last a year or two, they are all split and bolt up together not a difficult job. But on the back axle there will be two gaiters, one each side and they are tricky to get on.....do not let them deteriorate or they will mess up the air brake chamber costing real $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$......there are I believe 3 types of gaiters and mine were the most expensive - sods law - and where I live I could only get the Mercedes real deal gaiters. $$$$$$$$. The official manual. INVALUABLE....so don't die of shock when you see how much they cost......they come as two big grey folders, heavy things, but they will save you that weight in cash money. (The manuals talk about a lot of special service tools - despair not - most of these tools can be made up or adapted from other tools by any competent handyman). I have owned my Unimog U1300L for some 15 years and actually drove it from UK to Eastern Poland without a problem.....in that 15 years it has cost me one short brake line, the valve I talked about and one caliper (which I bought before exploring the possibility of refurbishment).....(If you are travelling - it might be a good idea to keep a spare refurbished caliper in your spares kit, I know I would). Now the BIG costs. Tyres........the standard tyres that they come with are good all rounders but not very good off road. If you win the lottery Michelin MX or speed rated Agribib are the way to go, but I chose to go up a couple of sizes for extra ground clearance and bought speed rated Indian made Industrial Chevron tyres. If you intend to do any serious off roading, then chevrons every time. I have been getting 19 MPG (imperial) since I bought it.....loaded or unloaded, seems to make no difference........I suspect that the turbo.fast axles models used a bit more fuel because you are encouraged to push it a bit more. I have owned Landrovers that did less to the gallon than my Unimog, so I am more than happy. Oil (lots) filters not so bad one big oil filter but because everybody forgets the filters on the side of the engine which of course are the washable kind.....you take them out and wash them in Gasoline/kerosene etc....don't get caught out....also put some of those little clear filters in the line and keep a few spares around. Ask any questions you may have.
@@Pinzpilot101 i appreciate the time on your answer, i have a light weight landrover 24 volt in the shed so you might say yes i understand where you are coming from, i am just planning at the minuite for a venture my be 12 to 16 months in the future,not quite sure if i will buy in australia or transport from the uk....even though i live in hungary at the minuite....life is an adventure, i will keep you in mind as time progrsses,thanks again!
@@fuzzzeballs OK. I,m not very far away from you in world terms as I am in the Podkarpacie region of Eastern Poland......as things come up just feel free to ask.
Ein Traum von einem Mog- sieht besser aus als neu!
DANKE, war ein schönes Projekt!
Absolut genial 👍
DANKE!
Wow im perfekten Zustand.... 👍👏👏👏👏😎
Danke!
Tolles Fahrzeug 🤩
Danke!
schönes auto..hab meinen auch schon 7 jahre...allerdings mit 405/70 R 20 reifen und FM1 shelter. mit den 335ern hab ich mich mal dermaßen im schlamm festgefahren..mit den 405ern nie
Generell immer ein sehr schönes gutes Fahrzeug!
Klasse ❤
Danke!
War ein schönes Projekt.
Welche Größe hat das Tarnnetz?