"Wall Framing" Build Show Build: Boston Ep. 6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2023
- House wrap, insulated studs, ZIP System® … there are countless choices to framing and sheathing your exterior walls. What should you use, any why? We’ll review the decision making process and Steve will educate viewers on framing nomenclature basics such as common stud, king, jack, cripple, header, etc. and provide a deeper understanding of wall framing details and terms. In addition, Steve goes back to the studio to break down why they chose this specific framing method and insulation.
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This book is a comprehensive guide for anyone who wants to build a second unit on their property. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzaRUJNcbypw-fRBDbqqz43ULIa-1EGP- It showcases various types of houses, such as garage apartments, with photos, videos, and floor plans. The book provides the square footage and the dimensions of each house, as well as the option to order the plans or customize them according to your preferences. You can choose from a range of styles, from ultra modern to cottages and A frame lake houses. The book also offers suggestions for sheds, pool houses, and office studio buildings. This book is an ideal resource for the aspiring home designer.
I feel like Steve was born to be an instructor when it comes to these videos. This man deserves an award.
Thank you for the kind words - I was inspired early in my career by Dr. Joe to share info...... just following in the footsteps of greatness
Love this.... please make a TH-cam playlist of this Boston build.
Can’t get enough of Steve. I get so excited when the latest episode comes out! #stevestheman! #BIGRED
Steve knocked it out of the ballpark again! Way to go man!
Thanks bud - we all need to be sharing info
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Absolutely ... 100% ... This is no needs for "trade secrets" in our industry.
I realized 20 years too late I enjoy architecture but I can still keep myself entertained watching videos like these and playfully designing my "dream house."
It was nice to see your discussion about the real R value of the wall assembly as well. After studying the NZERTF plans I started wondering about the R40 walls when it's full of openings for windows and doors that are R5. I started playing around with the U factor calculations for different assemblies myself and there really is a rapidly diminishing rate of return when thinking about the whole system.
Overall, good stuff and I can't wait to see the rest of this series.
2 x 6 exterior walls is definitely the way to go,no matter where you live. Here is 3 pluses I came up with after building my house #1 truss design is much easier (you can go hip roof crazy with the added strength and support) . #2 extra insulation is a give me.#3 extra depth on the window ledges is great for decorating ( knickknacks and Christmas decorations ); your wife will love it.
Thanks for joining in - much appreciated
Matt, thanks, just thanks. A house “for most persons” is the largest purchase and biggest investment they will make IN THERE LIFETIME.
OOOOH an honest assessment of stick frame whole wall R value. The SIP guys go wild !!!!
Thanks for joining in - much appreciated
I'm really hoping Steve will do something of this nature though out the whole project he's on, I enjoyed his indepth explanations. Very well done, much appreciation for all the hard work to everyone at the build show! Thank you!
We will try, have some great ideas ahead of us and yes - The editors and camera people at the Buildshow don't get enough credit. Their long hours and artistic knitting makes this work so well for all - thanks for joining us
Watching this is like watching This Old House on Steroids!!! It is so good. The building science dimension is next level.
Thank you for joining
One of the best videos you have put out Steve. Thank you for this one.
Thank you very much - appreciate the kind words / Roof framing in a couple weeks has some good stuff also!!!
You are truly a rare find, an entertaining educator with immense knowledge. Thank you for this series. I would love to see you do a series on the pros/cons, use/misuse of EIFS wall systems at some point.
Thank you
I have a fever, and the only prescription is more Steve.
Love you thinking!!!! Thanks for joining in
" An awesome man who knows his shit !!!! " says Bubba . Kudos , Sir !!!!!
Well Hell MAN......Thanks Bubba!!!
Integrated concrete rockwool zip R; that has to be Matt and Steve’s dream product🤣👍🏻👍🏻
Knowledge is key in this industry! Love this series
Agreed - thanks for joining
Many thanks, Steve. Great production, as usual, and loving the on-site/in-studio format! Thanks again for taking the time!
Thank you for joining in - much appreciated
Steve, when you can get someone to tune in attentively to a video that is over an hour..you know it's good. This was perhaps the best video encapsulating modern building science (with respect to wall construction) that I've ever seen..and I've been immersed in this world for over 20 years. The big red summary on wall systems and effective R value with explanations was outstanding. Further, your sense of humour and relaxing unscripted dialog is about perfect for the subject matter. I don't comment often on videos, but I had to commend you on this. I'm looking very much forward to you "capping this off" :-)
Thank you for the kind words sir. I greatly appreciate you joining in on the discussion and taking the time to comment. I am looking forward to the future episodes here......
Amazing video Steve. This is the best explanation of wall system R value I've seen on TH-cam.
Thank you!!! Thanks for joining in
Jeff, can you figure out where the R27 came from? On the sheet it looked like R21. If R21 is the right one then adding R9 gives R30 and not the R27 +R9 = R36. What ever the case, Steves point is still made with the R30 or R36 as he ended showing that it was more than the R18. Cheers from Eastern Canada☺ Steve does such a great job as explaining things in a way that is easy to understand. 💯👍
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs he only mentioned it in the on site part of the video how he's getting R27. He's doing 2" (R14ish) closed cell in the stud bays and I think he said blown in cellulose to get the rest. 3.5" blown cellulose must be the missing R13.
@@MrLouie75 Ah! Thank you. 😊🇨🇦You may have found a few of the 2 missing pieces I did not catch on to. I googled blown in cellulose R value info: The R-value of loose-fill cellulose insulation is approximately 3.5R per inch of thickness. So 3.5in of blown in on the site itself provides initial 12.25R and it decreases over time as the blown in cellulose "settles" over time. Interesting! ☺
I did send a request for him to clarify, realizing he is super busy being such a high profile architect. Like I did point out, so to not disprove or cause a negative perception on him, regardless if R36 was possibly incorrect and according to his drawing, using R21 +9C =R30, the building science still stands. He helped us to understand that when a contractor says they will provide an R40 wall assembly, we are to asked is that the "whole wall" or just the cavity part. Further pointing out that studs have 1R per inch and windows are between 3-7R and that these lower numbers need to be calculated into the "whole wall" R value, not just the cavity.
What I learned recently is that an ICF basement or wall assembly, not whole wall, is about R23, But include the lower window R value (R3-7R) and that R23 comes down in R value by quite a lot. What a wonderful presentation Steve did on this one. We are so fortunate to have him help us. As I prepare for this ICF basement but thick wall stick build assembly, with rock wood board 80 included on the draft plans, I am deeply grateful for what Matt and Steve are doing to help in the different areas of the construction landscape.
I am not sure how things are in the construction industry in your area Jeff, but here on Prince Edward Island, construction companies are run off their feet and select only projects that will bring in fast money. When I have the plans sorted out and proceed for the permit, it does not mean I will find the right contractor and will have to continue to wait even longer than the 4 yrs I have been already waiting. Realizing that it is best to Wait rather than get the wrong builder for this 28 x 23 3 story, full ICF basement, open design with open web trusses.
Of course the price of building material is outrageous. Saving up for the build can be quite a journey for home improvement renovation enthusiasts.
Thank you for your input Jeff. I will review the video and catch the on site bit I may have missed. Many thanks for your input and time on this Jeff.🙏🍁🇨🇦
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs You're welcome. On a different comment on this video Steve told me that a full ICF wall ended up more expensive than framing like this. I plan to build an ICF house in the next few years, and was surprised to hear that. Is that what you are seeing in your area as well? Why not full ICF at your build? So many things are built into an ICF wall (framing, insulation, vapor barrier) and the fact that I can diy stacking the blocks and even the pour if I choose makes me think it's still the choice for me.
Steve, I continued to watch a few more of your Boston Builds after watching this one. I must say, Sir, you certainly have an inviting persona to your audience. ⭐ I also appreciate how well you articulate with clarity and sequencing in the right amount of info at any particular time in explaining things.💯% I really enjoyed your presentations. I hope an extension here in Atlantic Canada, Prince Edward Island, will be built in 2024 with the Zip R sheathing and rock wool board on the outside. Steven your presentations are bookmarked for repeat viewing and I look forward to learning more from you. The comments are also interesting and helpful as well.👍 I appreciate when you respond to some too. Stay warm, Cheers Eastern Canadian household🍁🇨🇦
Well thank you - I had the best Mentors I could ask for, they taught me well, most importantly, they taught me that we are curators of information and we need to cultivate what we get and share it with others - kinda community gardening if you will. We can learn an awful lot by sharing.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Indeed we can. Sharing is caring, so they say💯 🇨🇦
48:05 This is because R- and U-values are not simple reciprocals of one another. R-values take into account thermal transfer via conduction but not convection or radiation. U-value takes into account all three methods of transfer.
I'm always amazed how thin the insulation is on homes in North America. When my building was getting insulated (old Polish semi-soviet construction from the 70's, reinforced concrete everywhere) they slapped on about 12" of EPS (I think, it was maybe 15 years ago) on every wall . That should be what, R-49 (plus whatever the wall originally provided)? Probably less since it was an old tech. Granted, Warsaw, Poland is more like Chicago than Boston, but still.
EDIT: I just checked a house build in Poland I follow on YT and saw 250mm (10") of XPS (R47) on 240mm wall made from aerated concrete blocks (R9, less at poured beams). Total estimated (peak) R-Value should be around R-56.
Retired engineer here currently doing continuing education for license renewal. You should be teaching one of the courses. Great presentation skills!
Well thank you Martin - very much appreciated
My favourite was seeing how eager the framing guy was to get back to work.
He's a go go go kinda guy
Not getting paid to be on video.
@@WaltWW True. Though after two days 25K people now know his name (unsure of how many of us really matter to him)
Where I live in south Jersey. Some builders use zip boards -because it makes their project look good to the uneducated- but no tape because it is expensive.
Early on builders using the tape didn't always roll it. So then they started making tape printed with "ROLL THE TAPE" in two languages. That didn't always work. So now they have the imprint telltale roller.
Are you saying zip boards aren't any good?
@@jasonwest2064 No I'm not. Just that you have to follow the installation instructions for it to perform correctly.
That’s all good that I fell in love with insulated concrete forms do everything the roof, the floors all in concrete forms and then take aluminum studs 2 x 4 on the interior for all the exterior and interior walls then do 4 inches of spray foam to pound close cell All the floors would be done with warm board and thanks to you guys. I have this knowledge.
So much detail and explanation on each topic, no one else does that. Thank you.
Great video! Baczek's knowledge and attention to detail is impressive!
Thank you
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 It would be great to see you do a video on the pros and cons of various different wall assemblies that are typically seen out in the field. Thanks again for this great video!
@@jeremyjedynak I have done a number of them - wrote an article for JLC on this a couple years back
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I'll take a look for them. Thank you!
My question about zip-r and shear rating has finally been answered!
Yes it has published shear numbers, slightly reduced from the standard 7/16" panel, but in most cases it meets the required criteria
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I live near the Gulf coast, so hurricane resistance is a major concern for me.
What would be interesting is to take all these changes to get to better R value, calculate the increased cost from a “standard build”, and compare that to energy saved in dollars over time.
The wood frame is a wash, the cavity insulation is the same, the increased investment is in the R-sheathing. Also remember, it also enhances health, comfort, and durability, along with energy efficiency
Great video! Very informative for folks not directly involved with the carpenters. This is the stuff that many industry pros could use more of, especially those that don't spend much time on-site (looking at my fellow PMs, BIM teams, and design pros).
Agreed - thank you for joining us
Thanks Steve, great job!
Very informative for a simple homeowner who likes to know more about construction.
Thanks for joining in
Fantastic explanation that as a laymen I understand it perfectly. THX
Can’t wait for the roof episode! Good stuff
Coming soon and it is Good Stuff
This is so educational! Awesome video!!
Thank you for the kind words
Just a little thing I want to add is where to put the vapor barrier. Hot, humid air wants to condense on cold surfaces. Your vapor barrier (VB) is one of those surfaces past which the hot, humid air shall never pass, in theory. In an always cold climate, you'd want the VB more on the inside so it never cools down enough to become a condensing surface, but also prevent that hot, humid air to reaching components further to the outside wall, where it could condense on. If you move further to the south, however, that can become a problem since your AC might reverse the situation. Your insides are cool, dry and comfy, but the outside is hot and humid. With only a single VB on the inside the hot, humid air will pass through your outer wall and condense on the VB. That doesn't matter that much for warm and dry areas, but climate change makes everybodys weather more extreme and a single unexpected cold night can infest the whole house with mold. Ask me how I know... And in climates with both hot, humid and very cold the VB should be slap bang in the middle. This way it will, in both circumstances, never become cold enough to become a condensing surface. I also wouldn't call the latter method a premium option. It should be code in all climate zones.
A couple things - I am more inclined to cal it "moisture laiden" air , not hot humid air. "Vapor Barrier" ? Never use one.....I typically spec a "smart vapor retarder" like Mayrex by Siga. Please understand the big old vapor monster that many call out doesn't really exist in a well designed home. Moisture movement via Air Transported air leakage is an order of magnitude over vapor diffusion. Keep the moisture content low, control air leakage, and keep the potential condensing surface above the dew point....vapor is not as hard to dela with as some choose to illustrate.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Maybe I expressed myself in a misleading way. I'm neither a native english speaker, nor from the US. I only know of vapor barriers from videos about US construction practises. In my mind "vapor" is equal to "moisture laiden air". (I checked Google translate and it seems to agree). In my scenario I already assumed an air tight building envelope and a HVAC system. Although both are mutually exclusives, but I think you get the point.
The point I was trying to make is to keep installed moisture diffusion barriers (smart or dump) in an area, where it will never reach dew point and act as a condensing surface, leading to mold or rot.
From my understanding, it seems we speak about the same, but in different words.
Sorry, if there was a misunderstanding due to lack of details.
@@OperationDarkside Don't be sorry man.....we are speaking the same language. I just like to clarify for those that may check in on our conversation to make sure we are illustrating concepts correctly. Thank you for joining in my friend - very much appreciated. Can I ask where are you from/living?
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Yes, thanks for the clarification. I'm from Germany. That's probably also the reason I'm less familiar with light framing, etc. And it also doesn't help, that I'm a programmer by trade. I grew up in uninsulated, call it vapor open, plastered brick masonary buildings, but currently looking into more budget friendly options for a small house and light/stick framing seems like a good choice.
I just watched this video. It was awesome and you did a great job explaining things so that even I could understand them and that’s saying something. I’d love to see a cost difference between code, and that build. It would be interesting to see just how long it took to pay off, and if it would be worth the upfront cost for those of us who don’t have extra money lying around.
Brilliant, outstanding, excellent, one of the very best of the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you very much - the kind words are much appreciated
Steve is the best!! I am VERY pleased and lucky to have him as the partner in this house! Great architects are not "hired" but become "partners" in homes that are successful. Every day provides new learning. Great to hear that so many people are seeing the series and taking away valuable information. That was the intent.
@@scottrodman Thanks buddy!!! Much appreciated - we are a great team
It's nice to hear someone with the word "reciprcal" in his lexicon.
What's up buddy, thanks for joining in
Likewise - Great to hear the word "Lexicon" being used
Another fantastic educational video.
Thank you
Exceptional video on wall framing!!!!!!!!
Thank you!!! Much appreciated
This was Fun! Thank you so much Steve. I appreciated the drawings and calculation section. Love math and seeing how changing one component or more can make over all changes. You put things into a real perspective. Here in Atlantic Canada an extension will hopefully be built next year, 2024. I often wondered about the thermal bridging and how it would reduce the "whole wall" R value. Quite interesting and yes, careful listening to contractors who claim a stick build can get to R30 or more. Factoring in the triple pane windows and opaque sections certainly brings the cavity number down significantly. I guess that is why building a complete home, foundation to the top plate in ICF with R23 gives more R value....BUT as you just pointed out, this R23 is NOT the "whole wall" R value if we factor in the windows of R7. I would love to have your calculation of opaque plus cavity being R23 at 80% and windows R7 at 20%? Would the number be close to R18 for the whole wall? Got it....Hot to cold....noted with thanks....I will watch your other vids...and I have subscribed months ago.....Love all that you do Steve....so much to learn from you...thank you so much from Eastern Canadian household💝🇨🇦 P.S.....nice sense of humour there Steve....next is roofing...to "cap things off." I do see what you did there! LOL☺
Thank you soooo much, have me laughing!! Glad you are joining in on the conversation - let me know if you have any questions. Appreciate the kind gestures!!!
Absolutly awesome explanation and math. I've been saying this for years yet the code still allows poorly insulated walls. It's literally a fortune to fix later. But the public wants nice n shiny cabinets. Really hope a minum of r5 is required for outside insulation in the near future. All that thermal break would add to to an emense savings for everyone buying a new home.
Only rich people can afford to build such overengineered well executed house for everybody else SIP panels were invented long time ago.
@@andreycham4797 The building methods are not strictly for rich people. Some of the more expensive products they use might be for the higher end clients. But there’s cheaper ways to get the same, or better, results as using things like zip R sheathing. It’s just that it’s not as convenient since that means you’d have to do each aspect of zip independently; insulation, sheathing and weather barrier.
But all of it is going to be dependent on who is going to build the house anyway. If you build it yourself- you could save more and use higher quality products. Tract builders- pretty much get whatever they decide to throw together. Custom builders- often comes at a higher cost, but you can get more of exactly what you want.
The tract builders could potentially build using those materials at a lower cost than custom builders. But they are accommodating the masses that want new construction, low cost (initial at least) and as fast as possible.
@@UserError7861 this is the point with SIP s it is very difficult to screw up almost everything done at a factory and they would provide r value you pay for
@@andreycham4797 True. But it still comes back to who is doing the building though. Tract builders only use products they choose. DIY is a possibility with SIP, as is with any method. And custom builders still won’t be cheap regardless of materials. And if it’s a material the builder doesn’t like working with they may not do the project, or charge more. Which could decrease what savings were possible.
@@UserError7861 I am renovating my two properties and I found so many screwups on them so I decided if ever hire someone I will be there controlling every step then I would ask myself if I am there knowing what and how things need to be done what the f.... I am paying someone 50- 100 dollars an hour when I have never earned 30 dollars after taxes
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you
Never enough Steve!
Thank you very much - much appreciated
You guys should make a video on just high performance details on construction drawings. Love watching your videos, I'm a CVT student at SAIT in Alberta and my building science teacher Matt met Matt in Whistler and loves using his TH-cam videos in class cause things are explained so well.
Please tell ALL your friends - All of my Buildshow videos (100s) have a Big Red sequence to them at the end
Great job! Interesting headers, never seen a single. We always did as you said, sandwiched some OSB between 2 2 x by’s.
Me too - until I had a conversation with our structural engineer
Thank you for explaining that you change it to U Values when doing the calculation. I was so confused why your numbers were so far off
No problem - thanks for joining in
I'd like to see this exact Boston series set of videos, but with a Houston, TX title.
I'm in The Woodlands area, about 30 miles North of Houston. I've been designing a passive house for the past year or two (on paper and sketchup/soon to be an architectural model) and honestly, I'll probably never build the ral deal home to live in, but I simply love learning about the design process of an energy efficient, passive, net zero home, but I feel like there are some key differences between North and South climates.
Great stuff no matter what climate your filming and teaching from!
You sound like Engineering Material to me. Go for it. (74yo Industrial Engineer, retired)
Excellent video!
tHANK YOU
Well Done, Very informative, Thank you.
Thank you for joining in
This is just fantastic content!
Thank you for joining in
Thanks for the insider tip's. Im a painter by trade but I love learning about advanced framing
Very informative!
Thanks for joining in - much appreciated
THANK YOU!
I enjoyed this video. However, I did expect you to show how the Zip R-9 to the bottom plate of the wall. You covered this in the previous video on paper, but seeing the real thing would have been great. I'm going to be build my retirement house next year and love this kind of content.
The framers have completed that detail yet - will pick it up in the future - possibly the siding install
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Great. I think that I will use Zip R-6 on my house in South Carolina.
I always appreciate your teaching style. @47:31 using the conventional method for calculating the whole wall R-value it would be R-14.6 using your example. But still shows that we shouldn't think of this as an R-21 wall like you cautioned.
Are you converting to U value , then calculating? Can't keep it in R-value.......
I am not sure what you mean by the conventional method? My calculations are based on a MIT Building Scientist calculation that he developed for me, but it is based in U-Value. Your value I believe is using the respective percentages and keeping it as an R-Value. You can't just multiply the R-value X the % of wall area and add them up like you did. Your suggesting that the center of cavity is = to 60% of R-21 = 12.6........it isn't it's R-21 for 60%of the wall.
Probably should have started off with the IRC residential book and maybe the plans you're working off of.
I would love to use the LVL studs, but just looking at Home Depot, they are about 30 times more expensive for simple nominal sizes.
I'd be very interested in the math's that show side by side how the R-value would change with cold formed steel (CFS) wall framing for both the 16 and 24 OC wall segments. Would love to get your thoughts on CFS as a whole and market potential you see, if any?
Thanks always for hosting such an awesome show.
Cheers
Chad
Excellent! Thank you!!
Very welcome - thanks for joining
Nice! I didnt know the rollers had the letter piece in the roller for Quality Control. very cool
Great lesson on insulation 😁
Thank You
information so good, watch 2 times
Awesome !! Awesome!!
U-values are the reciprocals of R-values. If you can calculate something with U-values, you can definitely calculate the same thing with R-values.
No, you can't, do the same calc with R-values and you get a different answer, I didn't write the formula I use, probably the smartest man I have ever met did, feeling he is very trustworthy
STEVE /MATT. Building a full custom home , Zone4 (Virginia). Will be using a complete Zip R (3 or 6) system with Huber rep working onsite with my builder. Question for you .. Can the Zip R sheath wall continue down to the 8" concrete foundation wall sill and sit on a 7 1/2" sill gasket (vs. 5 1/2") and serve as the "band board" (rim board) in front of the joists & double sill plate. To my mind this would reduce the thermal bridge of the rim board and would ( could) be "flush" with the foundation for a more seamless taping. You would simply shift the 7 1/2' double sill plate on the 8" wall slightly to accomodate the Zip R insulation. Thanks .. "Lets get Started!"
Amazing
Thanks for joining in - very much appreciated
R values are important to resist the flow of heat. However a more important topic is flow of water vapor. Can you do a video about water vapor, specifically talking about ZIP R-9 sheathing? The poly-iso is less than 1 perm, the OSB is between 1 and 3 perm, and the ZIP coating is between 12 and 16 perm. How does this impact the ability to dry in or out?
Also the ZIP tape is bonding the ZIP coatings together. Should a poly-iso approved adhesive be used to bond the foam together between sheets so vapor doesn't pass through the seams? In Zone 5 it would be awful for vapor to condense on the OSB seams from heat leaking between poly-iso cracks and bringing vapor with it.
Maybe i am just splitting hairs and no builder ever constructs to this degree of accuracy.
As Matt always says importance is in the following order: bulk water, air infiltration, water vapor, and finally thermal.
Great series Steve. Can't get enough of it. Loved your explanation of the Window Pocket Headers and how it ensures lining up all the windows. However, could you explain your strategy with the Doors. Approach does NOT appear to line up with the standard/common 6068 Doors. Aren't Doors and Windows expected to line-up at the same height?
Doors are 7', and yes the windows will be about 10" higher......
Architects are a pain in the ass. Framer Matt is a good sport. ha
Hey thanks for the great insight - very much appreciated....
The double top plate also helps spread out the weight of the rafters if they dont match wall stud locations....unless thats changed in 15 years since i did framing
It does
100%, u-values are universal.
@Steven Baczek Architect Great vidoe Steve, Steve Bravo man, very good explanation!!! I have tried to tell supplier I am going 24" OC for design for our home, and its like they think I am taking something out of their pockets for sales, ha ha ha!!! I made up my mind that I am after a very efficient envelope to retain it as long as I can and I am going to use ZipR6 and if I can improve my budget I will increas to ZipR9 in the North East!!!
Yes!!! Keep up the fight buddy......
Great knowledge transfer. I am a retired accountant hoping to build in the near future which makes your videos a valuable resource. Thank you!
Now, a quick question. Could you address aerodynamics and anchoring for geographic areas that could be exposed to severe weather, e.g. hurricanes, tornados or flatline winds?
This great information
Intersting!
Isn't every conversation?
🙏
I get it, increase R value. But at what cost? What is the cost delta? What is the time to pay back, is there a cost pay back? This is the real conversation. As renewables become more cost effective and equipment more efficient, it will become less about carbon fuel and more about carbon consumption in the manufacturing. This needs to be addressed. I hope you can speak to this. Love the show and the info.
Payback is such an ambiguous conversation. Totally based on the choice of baseline. I was simply doing the math here and illustrating the concept of COC R-value and WW R-value. Whether you do it or not that is your choice as the homeowner, builder, and architect/designer. I have done houses less than this, and more than this. Yes equipment is better, and getting better, you will never get me to believe they are substitutes for Passive means to success that require no maintenance, breakdown, or replacement.........Thank you for joining the conversation
Well insulated houses tend to be a lot quieter from my experience. If a quiet home helps an individual think better, there is no cost delta, it is priceless! 😃
@@damianokon6209 yes, acoustical benefits are side benefits
I really like your zip sheathing system as opposed to using the traditional board and vapor barrier separately.
there really is no other way of air sealing the envelope.
zip sheathing saves a lot of time by not having to go around after and put one small piece of tape on every staple.
is it sheathing is probably one of the greatest inventions when it comes to air sealing your home incorporating The Best of both worlds into one easy-to-use system.
thank you very much for all your great videos. you really make me feel like I'm on the job site with you.
thanks boss
My pleasure, we are all on the same learning curve just different seats - thanks for joining in
Thanks Steve for your very detailed analysis showing actual cumulative R values within differing wall systems and for the reminder that the goal is to keep heat in and not cold out. I would very much appreciate your opinion on 2 questions...I'm preparing to build my own single story thermally broken slab on grade home on the southern edge of zone 4. You've confirmed my decision to use Zip R6 exterior sheathing on 2x6 studs. Since this area is known to have high winds from time to time, will 24" stud centers be adequate for wall shear strength, or should I plan on 16" centers? I'm assuming that if 24" centers are good for Texas, they are fine for NW AR.
Our current slab on grade home is very cold near the floor (vinyl plank) during these winter months. It's 2x6 wall construction with good quality dual-pane low-e windows, but the slab isn't thermally broken. Technical R-value data is great and all, but it's the comfort feel that really matters. If we spend the extra $ to upgrade to Zip R9 and triple pane windows in our new home, would we likely feel the difference v. Zip R6 with quality dual pane low-e windows and doors? Thanks a million!
Like the video says, % of glass vs wall is a big factor. I recommend getting a proper Manual J performed and you can easily evaluate the separate options of better windows vs the Zip R9 upgrade. I recommend Home Performance Workshop. Corbett helped me decide on better windows vs continuous exterior insulation.
No one here in Texas hanging on to that roller and they are working on slabs have to roll tape every where they can’t reach later. Great system just not practical in the field I prefer Tyvec house wrap. Can’t imagine how much tape gets put on wet Zip wall in wetter climates .
While I do show floor framing I am not yet showing wall framing on my drawings, that is definitely something I want to work on and begin adding.
Thanks for joining in - much appreciated
Excellent as usual. Glad I waited to the end. I was going to ask why you don't do the exact insulation in hot climates, but still a question. Zip R6 vs R9 in the South, why? I know R value is resistance, but U value? Thanks again for the excellent series. Jayman...
I would but man this crowd would crucify me!!! Energy is Energy - regardless of where you are.......
Interesting. The math suggests the biggest impact on the high performance walls is the windows. Of course I bet that’s also the most expensive.
Window performance is usually the worst part of the wall
Would like to see some blocking above the windows for window treatment installation later on. There and in the bathroom for the towel bars.
Not done framing yet - those are always last on their list
Steve, Great explanation of calculating U/R-values for wall systems. What do you think about ICF? We're building a farmhouse in ME, most likely using ICF. Fox Block (6") wall runs R-value of 20-24 (with thermal mass) minus windows. Would love to increase R-value. Buck system interesting...Fox Buck. The more data and geek-out sessions on your videos the better in my opinion. I'm learning lots, thanks.
Much appreciated - thanks for joining in.......I like ICF, many times they don't make the $$$ cut
24" oc is the way to go.
I agree - pretty much all our projects
I was thinking of doing 2x6 wall 2’ OC with 2x4 purlings on 2’ vertical spacing, polyiso between them, zip sheathing and 1 1/2” polyiso outside of the sheathing, and rain screen. R23 Rockwool in the cavitys. I got a bunch of 1 1/2” polyiso for a really good price. I didn’t know if it would be worth it or not.
Exterior insulation is always worth it
Steve - I love your work but one thing I have to ask (and I am not picking on the Zip-R product here) - how can OSB and foam be a better solution from a vapor permeability perspective than any number of other envelope approaches? OSB is largely impermeable, it does not become more permeable as it wets, AND it deteriorates quickly when it become saturated. Any foam, poly iso included, is also basically impermeable. So how can a wall constructed like this be one that has longevity when it effectively cannot dry to the outside? I genuinely would like to be educated on this. Thanks so much for all the education you have provided.
Good Question, and one I have asked the very best of Building Scientists - It doesn't matter, what matters is that if things get wet, then they have the potential to dry. Yes the Zip R doesn't dry as well as some materials, but that means it doesn't get as wet as some materials. First thing to look at is what has the potential to get wet, and if it does, how does it dry. In this wall The poly-iso is the most impermeable of the wall materials. We are doing a flash of closed cell also inside the cavity, also somewhat impermeable. THey are back to back with each other, so they are not allowing any drying potential thru them. In the case of the closed cell, we have a cavity of dense pak cellulose, then drywall, and paint. Everything to the inside of the closed cell is permeable and will allow drying to the inside should it get wet.......See I said "should"? We have a Zehender ERV helping to manage moisture on the inside. It would take quite a bit of moisture to migrate into that wall to be a problem. Even if it does get in, everything to the inside of the closed cell is warm enough that the dew point is never reached - so moisture stays in the vapor form, which isn't a problem. Some suggest the cellulose has some resevoir capacity, not sure I subscribe to that. On the other side of the Poly-iso you have OSB and the WRB film, the OSB has some poermeance to it and the WRB film is pretty open. If siding was directly attached to the sheathing, then maybe a question mark comes to mind. But in most of my walls, I detail a rainscreen product that not only promotes free draining so the wall really doesn't get wet, but should it get wet, the rainscreen provides for drying potential. To most "Vapor" is some big bad monster that appears and wreaks havoc.......I consider it an asset and use it to dry my assemblies, but I ensure the wetting potential is very minimal. This is a single story home with 22" overhangs - good protection as I see it. Many believe walls need to be some flow thru assembly, no, we just need to provide some drying potential to the assembly, be it flow thru, or multi-directional, both are successful - lastly, understand vapor is not a problem until you chill it, and it condenses to liquid, just keep it warm.....Hope this helps? "Joe would always say " It's Building Science, not Rocket Science" don't make it more than it is.........Thanks for joining us
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 - thanks very much for the detailed answer. So if I understand correctly, this assembly basically (no pun intended) has a mostly impermeable layer (or two layers back to back) at its core and everything inboard dries to the interior and everything outboard dries to the exterior (especially with the assistance of the rain screen). Makes it almost sound like a SIP (maybe one with a polyurethane core) from a cross-section moisture management perspective. I guess that make sense to me (not and engineer, not an architect, did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night) but I still have a maybe slightly irrational dislike for OSB as every time I have seen it get wet I have seen it do more crumbling than drying. Thanks again for the detailed response. It was really enlightening.
I feel like you are misleading us by not taking into account the thermal bridging from the steel fasteners attaching the sheathing to the walls which reduce the r-value of the polyiso insulation significantly. Love your show and would love to hear your thoughts on this, and if possible, some data on how much heat moves through the fasteners.
There are sooooo many things ahead of the line in front of fastener thermal bridging. Yeah it exists, like homeowner habits, air leakage, equipment calibration, equipment maintenance, landscape placement, etc, etc, I actually just ran the numbers on this, I get about .64 sq inches of shaft area transfer, each sheet of Zip is 4608 sq inches - the nails account for about .00014% - hardly misleading at that level
Thanks for the response and the info. One correction on your math: 0.64 / 4608 = 0.00014 or 0.014%. Given the thermal conductivity of steel, this is significant.
This study web.ornl.gov/sci/buildings/conf-archive/2010%20B11%20papers/50_Christensen.pdf titled “Thermal Impact of Fasteners in High-Performance Wood-Framed Walls”, concluded that “The results demonstrate that three-dimensional effects and fasteners have a large thermal impact on the overall wall R-value. These effects are not considered with simple estimation methods such as the ASHRAE parallel-path method. Overall wall R-value was shown to decrease by 3.3-12.0%.” This applies to walls with between one (1) and three (3) inches of exterior insulation and a framing factor between 6% and 30%.
I agree that there are other factors that are more important than fasteners, but that doesn’t make this issue insignificant. It is almost never discussed so most people aren’t aware of it and don’t account for it. I believe this can be a mistake.
Great details, loved the video. What do you think of a ThermaSteel wall system. Maybe you can do a video on that
Not familiar - will check it out
Seems clear to me if you care about energy efficiency you eliminate as many windows as possible. Impossible for an R30 wall to make up for huge windows at R5.
Windows are always the worst part of the wall - but they do make the visual environment
Good video. I am wondering if the wall assembly is trapping the dew point in with the Zip system. Are you you not trapping the vapour by taping the seams? The OSB is also not very vapour permeable.
The nail is actually in single shear with or without the iso layer. The eccentricity on the nail is higher with the iso layer. The iso is soft and doesn't transfer significant shear into or out of the nail. The eccentricity increases the bending on the nail which makes the assembly weaker and more flexible for in-plane wall shear.
Agreed, the nail is creating a couple (bending) which decreases its shear strength. Double shear not quite the best choice of words. As for dew point, technically, you can't trap it, you can reach it though. This wall is designed to have a low impermeable layer (the 1 1/2" polyiso/2" CCSF), From that middle layer of low permeance the wall is designed to dry in both directions without much restriction. The dew point conversation you suggest isn't relevant because the fir condensing surface that would reach dew point is the inside of the CCSF which will ALWAYS be above the dewpoint in this CZ. Moisture in the vapor form is very very rarely a problem, when it condenses is the concern, and I believe I have designed it so
The Zip R-9 is probably in part to prevent thermal bridging I presume.
Yes- for sure!! Thanks for joining in
We started a home build last summer and we used Zip-R12 sheathing here in zone 6. One comment I got from the framers was that our home was the hottest home they've framed. They never used Zip-R before. With no roof, the sun really heated up the interior and the Zip-R kept the heat in with little wind.
If you use Zip sheathing, don't trust the framers to tape the seams. I did that myself. My framers didn't like anything new to them, especially using 4" nails for the thick Zip. I had them use foam subfloor adhesive and they complained that the foam blew off when they dropped the 4x8 3/4" plywood sheets. I had to tell them to lower the sheets onto the foam adhesive. They weren't very bright.
I like R-12, but usually stop at R-9 because of the jump to 4" nails
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 The only thing I can find is 0.131" x min of 1.5" framing penetration. R-9 is 1-15/16" which make for 3-7/16" nails. We have used 3-1/4" nail guns forever. Does buying a 4" nail gun make sense? Or is your experience the 4" nail being more problematic? Do they take more air to use (bigger tank/higher pressure)? Or is it just heavier to hang on the belt? What do you use for nails? Ring shank? Smooth? Galvanized? Thanks for the great video!
@@jimhorton579 the .131 and I think they are 3 1/2" length. There is no problem with a 4" nailer I am aware of - just not many framers have one and will need to go out and purchase for the project
Awesome explanation about R values. I've been looking at insulated panels like used in commercial buildings for my future build. The claim is up to R8 value per inch. Can you do a show on it?
R-8 per inch is a pretty strong claim
I disagree with the segment starting 16:50. Adding lvl studs doesn't add much lateral resistance, especially seeing how that is a bumped out wall section that is mostly fenistration. A portal framed header with proper 3" o.c. grid nailing to sheathing would help... and definitely block and nail plywood seams. What's with the random blocking not hitting the seams?? The lateral rigidity in a wall assembly is directly attributed to the sheathing, and then the wall's attachment to the floor framing. You can frame a wall with LVL studs 6" on center and it will rack just as easily as a 24" oc with 2x6 , sans plywood.
Lay the wall down as a deck - do you believe a 2X6 spruce joist is as strong in bending as a 2X6 lvl joist? Of course the lvl is stronger in bending. It is also very likely more straighter. I'm not saying it doubles the strength or something extraordinary, I'm just saying it is stronger......
Do an 8 hour episode where they literally show you everything as they're doing it
They kill me over 1 hour of talking lol
On the header pocket! If it’s open and insulated then the interior finishes ie curtain rods nothing to attach to!