When I did this job last year, I took the rear axle assy off after the hub was pulled, then used a shop press for the bearings. It made it so much easier. Also, the cotter pin is for the castle nut on the threaded end of the axle.
I was considering taking it out, but I don't have a shop press and it wouldn't help much, so I decided to keep it on the car. I thought the cotter pin was for the castle nut, but actually there is no castle nut there. The original nut was a nylock nut and the one that came with the kit was the same. So I didn't use the pin.
I'm doing a hub where the nut was not tight and the key sheared into two halves stuck in their grooves.You show how important the torque up is.Surprising that Triumph did not design a lock washer system or at least a split pin- castellated nut on the shaft.Owners beware and check their nuts!!! Thanks for the video .
A younger Elin!! This video was super helpful. I am tearing down my rear vertical links and I am having a tough time with removing the bearing and Trunion housing. Did you find a method that was easier for you since this was done all those years ago?
Hey Steve, that was the only time I had to do this job on a Spitfire. I didn’t remember what I’ve done so You made me watch this video again and 😂 I went to town there. Well, I don’t understand why I didn’t continue with the puller…. But other than the puller I think the angle grinder was the best option
@@RustyBeauties thanks for the response! I hope that you have your video a thumbs up as well as smashed the subscribe button. ;-). After I watched the video I went out and used a soft faced mallet to knock the Trunion housing back, but the bearing is still on the axle really well. I’m going to have to break out my hub puller and give that a shot. I’m completely going to rebuild the axle and all of the bearings and whatnot. Thanks again!
A little tip for you my friend. Next time you have to work on the brake lines and you want to stop the leaking, put something airtight under the filler cap. Then you close the air hole on the cap and you create a vacuum. I also wondered why you did not use a shop press, i think you need to make a wish list to your boss.
Thanks for the tip Ulrik, makes sense! You can find all kinds of equipment in our shop, but a press is something we wouldn't need in our regular work. For my hobby I have to supply the tools and equipment myself :) Hopefully soon I will be able to afford that too.
I found this video really helpful and I'm trying to tackle the same job myself but with limited home garage resources and also limited experience. I have all the tools necessary now but the problem is I'm struggling to find a steel bar strong enough to enable me to undo the initial hub nut. Is there anything you recommend? You appear to be using the bar on a clamp which is both thin enough and strong enough. If the answer is just take it along to a workshop garage I can do that but I quite like the challenge!!
Yeah, I haven't realized the camera stopped and didn't catch that. Well it turned out the bearing was all the way in and the inner hub together with the oil deflector cup had to come back a little. I just tapped them back with the small hammer.
I have the same set of hammers - some have plusses and some have minuses! (Your comment made me grin.) Also, aren't you in a shop with, you know, hammers and presses and etc? :)
I think the pluses and the minuses are to adjust the size, but it doesn't work for me. I think I have to return them. Yeah, many tools in the shop, plus I got many myself, but a press is still in my wish list..... together with a minilate... and a.... OK I am not starting that or I will never finish LOL
Well if I am doing it now I would definitely use the shop press, but at that time we didn't have one in the shop. We bought it just a couple of months ago. I agree the right way is to press the bearing smoothly on the shaft, but that is not the only way and I don't see anything wrong with my way too especially when you're working with hand tools only.
When I did this job last year, I took the rear axle assy off after the hub was pulled, then used a shop press for the bearings. It made it so much easier. Also, the cotter pin is for the castle nut on the threaded end of the axle.
I was considering taking it out, but I don't have a shop press and it wouldn't help much, so I decided to keep it on the car.
I thought the cotter pin was for the castle nut, but actually there is no castle nut there. The original nut was a nylock nut and the one that came with the kit was the same. So I didn't use the pin.
Thanks, Elin! I learn so much from watching your videos.
I'm doing a hub where the nut was not tight and the key sheared into two halves stuck in their grooves.You show how important the torque up is.Surprising that Triumph did not design a lock washer system or at least a split pin- castellated nut on the shaft.Owners beware and check their nuts!!!
Thanks for the video .
My king of mechanic very entertaining, thank you
The top is down and we're on the road again. Yeah!
Yeah, I had a great summer with the top down :)
A younger Elin!! This video was super helpful. I am tearing down my rear vertical links and I am having a tough time with removing the bearing and Trunion housing. Did you find a method that was easier for you since this was done all those years ago?
Hey Steve, that was the only time I had to do this job on a Spitfire. I didn’t remember what I’ve done so You made me watch this video again and 😂 I went to town there. Well, I don’t understand why I didn’t continue with the puller…. But other than the puller I think the angle grinder was the best option
@@RustyBeauties thanks for the response! I hope that you have your video a thumbs up as well as smashed the subscribe button. ;-).
After I watched the video I went out and used a soft faced mallet to knock the Trunion housing back, but the bearing is still on the axle really well. I’m going to have to break out my hub puller and give that a shot. I’m completely going to rebuild the axle and all of the bearings and whatnot.
Thanks again!
A little tip for you my friend.
Next time you have to work on the brake lines and you want to stop the leaking, put something airtight under the filler cap. Then you close the air hole on the cap and you create a vacuum.
I also wondered why you did not use a shop press, i think you need to make a wish list to your boss.
Thanks for the tip Ulrik, makes sense! You can find all kinds of equipment in our shop, but a press is something we wouldn't need in our regular work. For my hobby I have to supply the tools and equipment myself :) Hopefully soon I will be able to afford that too.
Nice night for a drive, looked like.
Yeah, I took many night drives this summer, when the traffic is not so busy and you can cruise and enjoy.
Oh yea! Brute force to the rescue! Woo Hoo!
When we meet would you be kind enough to take some time to teach me the 'rapid fire hammering technique'? Looks like a real time saver.
Oh yeah, with pleasure. It works very well, doesn't it? And you don't need too much practice... all you need is a mouse :)
I found this video really helpful and I'm trying to tackle the same job myself but with limited home garage resources and also limited experience. I have all the tools necessary now but the problem is I'm struggling to find a steel bar strong enough to enable me to undo the initial hub nut. Is there anything you recommend? You appear to be using the bar on a clamp which is both thin enough and strong enough. If the answer is just take it along to a workshop garage I can do that but I quite like the challenge!!
How did you get the bearing seated fully on the axle and in the carrier? I guess you ran out of SD cards by then.
Yeah, I haven't realized the camera stopped and didn't catch that. Well it turned out the bearing was all the way in and the inner hub together with the oil deflector cup had to come back a little. I just tapped them back with the small hammer.
Is this similar to the front wheel bearings ?
No, the front hubs are much easier. No puller required.
Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties thankyou that’s helpful :) great video !
I have a hammer like those. Only mine has a star handle, some fancy people call it a Torx handle. Who knew ? ;)
The one with Torx handle can be used as a Torque wrench as well!Hahah! At least one person got the joke :) I thought nobody did!
I am Irish, so I get your humour ! Very well done !
I have the same set of hammers - some have plusses and some have minuses! (Your comment made me grin.)
Also, aren't you in a shop with, you know, hammers and presses and etc? :)
I think the pluses and the minuses are to adjust the size, but it doesn't work for me. I think I have to return them.
Yeah, many tools in the shop, plus I got many myself, but a press is still in my wish list..... together with a minilate... and a.... OK I am not starting that or I will never finish LOL
What a pain!
Man, are you ever patient/persistent!
I am trying.... We need patience for many things in life. So always good to have some :)
This is not the way of replacing a bearing !!!! Take the axle out of the car and place it under the hydraulic press Elin !!!
Well if I am doing it now I would definitely use the shop press, but at that time we didn't have one in the shop. We bought it just a couple of months ago. I agree the right way is to press the bearing smoothly on the shaft, but that is not the only way and I don't see anything wrong with my way too especially when you're working with hand tools only.
first
Of course! :)
next time use a pair of studs (or cut off bolt heads) to help line up all the bearing plates. just saying. Great videos thank you, Steve