I own two FT2s and one FT3. I LOVE 'EM. The sheer quality of these models is outstanding. They put the FM, FE, FE2, FM2 to shame. I don't even use the camera's built-in light meter. The shutter speeds on all three of my cameras are still spot on perfect.
Thanks for mentioning this. I had a "hand-me down Nikkormat Ftn" from my father (purchased in 1978). For years I dreamt of getting a "better camera" and so I recently got an FM. I really don't like it anywhere near as much as my Ftn. The build of the FM seems so flimsy in comparison and quite uncomfortable to hold.
@@ScreamingEagleFTW True that. So, I also bought an F2 a few months after posting the previous comment. Controversial maybe what I'm about to say, but I HATED it, which was very surprising, considering how long. I too, obsessed over buying that camera! Sold it within a week of owning it.
My experience is only with Pentax k mounts, but I don’t understand auto indexing. What provides the indexing on a k mount? I don’t see any additional contacts. Is it just a technological advancement? How does the k mount index? Still, now I want an FT2. Just to play with the lens mounting routine. And to enjoy the looks of the lens with the hood. It’s beautiful.
All the K mount lenses would be considered auto-indexing in Nikon parlance. They have structures on the back of the lens mount that tell the camera the aperture settings. And yes, the old Nikons were gorgeously designed.
Thanks for this really good video. I have an Nikon lens wide angle 28mm (probably AIS) that doesnt have this little clip 15:45 and shot with it. I was mouving the meter 15:55 to adjust the exposure and I think that works but really not sure (had some good and bad photos). For exemple, if im shooting something very bright at f22 and it's still to bright at 1000s, im mouving the meter to the right to have the right exposure...Im still trying to understand what it does and looking to try your method. Thanks !
Thank you. And on the metering ring, you do need to have the clip for proper metering. That will allow the lens to communicate the aperture to the camera. Trying to guess that will almost certainly result in more bad (improperly metered) photos than good.
Any time, Steve. I'd argue that the DTL is a bit weirder to learn at first, but that the DTL becomes second nature really quickly. The metering on the Nikkormats, and the lens pairing, is always a bit weird.
Great tutorial,please is possible mount a 70-200 mm sigma sport lens in this camera, I have also a Zeiss Milvus 21mm ZF so this lens can be mounted?? Thanks you very much!
Thank you! It's doubtful that either lens will work on this camera as it requires a lens with an NAI coupling. The NAI coupling is the silver prong on the aperture ring of older lenses.
Hi David, thanks for your video. I have a problem with the meter. It gives me 3 or 4 stops above the real light. All my pictures are underexposed. I’m sure that the lens is well settled- the small red dot is on the minimal aperture of my lens. The asa is also settled. Any ideas of the problem ?
Hey, Eric. These use the old PX625 mercury cell batteries, which were 1.35 volts. Modern batteries of the same size are 1.55 volts, which causes underexposure. So there are three options: 1- Have done, or self-perform, a diode installation in the battery circuit that reduces the voltage. Fix Old Cameras has a guide on this for a different camera make, but the process is the same. The diode for this is about $1.50 and if you have some soldering experience it's an easy fix. 2- Get a voltage-reducing A76 to 625 adapter. These run about $40 and are easily lost, so I don't typically recommend these. 3- Compensate using the Sunny 16 rule. With an object in full sun and with the sun behind you (the object should be a tree, sidewalk, or something else of a mid-tone) set the aperture to f/16 and your shutter speed to the number closest to your ISO. Then adjust the ISO dial until you get a correct meter reading. That will be close enough to get you to within the film's exposure tolerances. Ultimately, I suggest the circuitry modification at some point, but the Sunny 16 compensation is a good way to tide yourself over until then.
@@DavidHancock For the Nikkormat FT2: my understanding is as long as the lens has the meter coupling 'fork' on it which engages the meter coupling lever; the lens will allow for full aperture metering. That applies to compatible mount non-Nikon lenses as well: as long as the meter coupling fork is on the lens and it engages the meter coupling lever on the camera it should work properly. Nikon did a good thing by making the AI/AI-S lens series 'backward compatible' by including the meter coupling fork on those lenses which would allow them to be used with open-aperture metering on the older Nikon cameras.
They're very different, so partly a recommendation depends on your photographic likes and approach. For me, the FT2 is a better option because I'm very comfortable in full manual and also need some of the advanced features it offers that the AE-1 lacks. I also use my gear a LOT so the heftier build in the FT2 is better for me (the AE-1 is mostly plastic.) Also, AE-1 units with good electronics are becoming fewer and further between, but this one being mostly mechanical will keep running as long as its maintained. I just had my FTn serviced a year ago and I don't expect I'll need to do it again in my lifetime. That said, the AE-1 has a great set of lenses available to it (so does the Nikon, but FD glass is less expensive right now). Upgrading to an A-1 or F-1 is pretty easy once you're ready. The AE-1 is a LOT lighter around the neck. Also, shutter priority can be really great if you want to just set a shutter speed and let the camera do the rest. So I've always been very happy with my AE-1. Either will make you happy, but the FT2 is likely to last longer than an AE-1.
It means that there's not enough light or your lens' maximum aperture is too small (if you have an f/8 telephoto, for instance), for the focusing screen. In general, it means the light level is too low.
I commented on Part 1 that the battery should be a Silver Oxide S76. The reason alkaline batteries are not used is because there is no electronic regulation and silver oxide maintains a constant voltage over it's life. Alkaline batteries have a voltage drop with use and your meter accuracy will degrade. I have Minolta XD11 which is a newer camera with an electronic shutter and it will take either alkaline or silver cells.
That's a good point, and I admit I was unaware that silver oxide batteries were still in production. I've definitely had issues with LR44 batteries in some cameras.
The silver oxide batteries are still made and even if you can use alkaline I wouldn't. Alkaline batteries tend to leak when they die, but I have some silver batteries that are at least 20 years old and still work and haven't leaked. They were put away and forgotten about. I picked up duracell 76s batteries from B&H also ordered some cells off of Amazon that I haven't received yet but they were about $6 for 5 of them. I'm trying to get back into film.I have all the equipment just need the chems and film.
I've found film to be very rewarding. Sure I can take a polished and visually stunning photo on my DSLR, but it's more rewarding and harder with a film camera. Film preserves the variables and really highlights a photog's skills. The good news about film is that both Ilford and Freestyle photo reported increased sales of traditional film products and chemicals in 2013. So, hopefully, it isn't going away any time soon.
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Best explanation of a working camera
Thank you!
I own two FT2s and one FT3. I LOVE 'EM. The sheer quality of these models is outstanding. They put the FM, FE, FE2, FM2 to shame. I don't even use the camera's built-in light meter. The shutter speeds on all three of my cameras are still spot on perfect.
Marc Meeks The FT series is an amazing lineage, yes. I do prefer the all-metal, all-mechanical cameras, too.
Nikkormat EL is fab as well
Thanks for mentioning this. I had a "hand-me down Nikkormat Ftn" from my father (purchased in 1978). For years I dreamt of getting a "better camera" and so I recently got an FM. I really don't like it anywhere near as much as my Ftn. The build of the FM seems so flimsy in comparison and quite uncomfortable to hold.
@@chronicfish Fm takes motordrive thats the only advantage I like.
@@ScreamingEagleFTW True that. So, I also bought an F2 a few months after posting the previous comment. Controversial maybe what I'm about to say, but I HATED it, which was very surprising, considering how long. I too, obsessed over buying that camera! Sold it within a week of owning it.
Thank you for making these videos. I learn every week from you! 🙏🏽
Thank you!
Very Nice video's David 👍
Thank you!
My experience is only with Pentax k mounts, but I don’t understand auto indexing. What provides the indexing on a k mount? I don’t see any additional contacts. Is it just a technological advancement? How does the k mount index? Still, now I want an FT2. Just to play with the lens mounting routine. And to enjoy the looks of the lens with the hood. It’s beautiful.
All the K mount lenses would be considered auto-indexing in Nikon parlance. They have structures on the back of the lens mount that tell the camera the aperture settings. And yes, the old Nikons were gorgeously designed.
Very helpfull thanks
Thank you!
Thanks for this really good video. I have an Nikon lens wide angle 28mm (probably AIS) that doesnt have this little clip 15:45 and shot with it. I was mouving the meter 15:55 to adjust the exposure and I think that works but really not sure (had some good and bad photos). For exemple, if im shooting something very bright at f22 and it's still to bright at 1000s, im mouving the meter to the right to have the right exposure...Im still trying to understand what it does and looking to try your method. Thanks !
Thank you. And on the metering ring, you do need to have the clip for proper metering. That will allow the lens to communicate the aperture to the camera. Trying to guess that will almost certainly result in more bad (improperly metered) photos than good.
@@DavidHancock Ok ! Ill try what you said in your video. Thanks a lot !
Saw some of these on ebay for paltry sums,but they seem far wonkier than my M/S DTL.Thanks for leading me to this review.
Any time, Steve. I'd argue that the DTL is a bit weirder to learn at first, but that the DTL becomes second nature really quickly. The metering on the Nikkormats, and the lens pairing, is always a bit weird.
Great tutorial,please is possible mount a 70-200 mm sigma sport lens in this camera,
I have also a Zeiss Milvus 21mm ZF so this lens can be mounted??
Thanks you very much!
Thank you! It's doubtful that either lens will work on this camera as it requires a lens with an NAI coupling. The NAI coupling is the silver prong on the aperture ring of older lenses.
Hi David, thanks for your video. I have a problem with the meter. It gives me 3 or 4 stops above the real light. All my pictures are underexposed. I’m sure that the lens is well settled- the small red dot is on the minimal aperture of my lens. The asa is also settled. Any ideas of the problem ?
Hey, Eric. These use the old PX625 mercury cell batteries, which were 1.35 volts. Modern batteries of the same size are 1.55 volts, which causes underexposure. So there are three options:
1- Have done, or self-perform, a diode installation in the battery circuit that reduces the voltage. Fix Old Cameras has a guide on this for a different camera make, but the process is the same. The diode for this is about $1.50 and if you have some soldering experience it's an easy fix.
2- Get a voltage-reducing A76 to 625 adapter. These run about $40 and are easily lost, so I don't typically recommend these.
3- Compensate using the Sunny 16 rule. With an object in full sun and with the sun behind you (the object should be a tree, sidewalk, or something else of a mid-tone) set the aperture to f/16 and your shutter speed to the number closest to your ISO. Then adjust the ISO dial until you get a correct meter reading. That will be close enough to get you to within the film's exposure tolerances. Ultimately, I suggest the circuitry modification at some point, but the Sunny 16 compensation is a good way to tide yourself over until then.
Hi David, you make my day ! Thank you very much. If you ever plan to visit Warsaw in Poland, let me know. I’d plan to have a drink in a nice place.
To have the right exposure with a non ai lens do i have to use the preview button or the lightmeter itself is accurate?
No. The Nikkormat cameras are able to work correctly with NAI lenses as-is.
@@DavidHancock For the Nikkormat FT2: my understanding is as long as the lens has the meter coupling 'fork' on it which engages the meter coupling lever; the lens will allow for full aperture metering. That applies to compatible mount non-Nikon lenses as well: as long as the meter coupling fork is on the lens and it engages the meter coupling lever on the camera it should work properly. Nikon did a good thing by making the AI/AI-S lens series 'backward compatible' by including the meter coupling fork on those lenses which would allow them to be used with open-aperture metering on the older Nikon cameras.
Would you recommend this or the canon AE-1?
They're very different, so partly a recommendation depends on your photographic likes and approach. For me, the FT2 is a better option because I'm very comfortable in full manual and also need some of the advanced features it offers that the AE-1 lacks. I also use my gear a LOT so the heftier build in the FT2 is better for me (the AE-1 is mostly plastic.) Also, AE-1 units with good electronics are becoming fewer and further between, but this one being mostly mechanical will keep running as long as its maintained. I just had my FTn serviced a year ago and I don't expect I'll need to do it again in my lifetime.
That said, the AE-1 has a great set of lenses available to it (so does the Nikon, but FD glass is less expensive right now). Upgrading to an A-1 or F-1 is pretty easy once you're ready. The AE-1 is a LOT lighter around the neck. Also, shutter priority can be really great if you want to just set a shutter speed and let the camera do the rest. So I've always been very happy with my AE-1.
Either will make you happy, but the FT2 is likely to last longer than an AE-1.
is the light meter inside the viewfinders only works with battery?
Correct.
why does the small circle sometimes turn black?
It means that there's not enough light or your lens' maximum aperture is too small (if you have an f/8 telephoto, for instance), for the focusing screen. In general, it means the light level is too low.
I commented on Part 1 that the battery should be a Silver Oxide S76. The reason alkaline batteries are not used is because there is no electronic regulation and silver oxide maintains a constant voltage over it's life. Alkaline batteries have a voltage drop with use and your meter accuracy will degrade.
I have Minolta XD11 which is a newer camera with an electronic shutter and it will take either alkaline or silver cells.
That's a good point, and I admit I was unaware that silver oxide batteries were still in production. I've definitely had issues with LR44 batteries in some cameras.
The silver oxide batteries are still made and even if you can use alkaline I wouldn't. Alkaline batteries tend to leak when they die, but I have some silver batteries that are at least 20 years old and still work and haven't leaked. They were put away and forgotten about.
I picked up duracell 76s batteries from B&H also ordered some cells off of Amazon that I haven't received yet but they were about $6 for 5 of them.
I'm trying to get back into film.I have all the equipment just need the chems and film.
I've found film to be very rewarding. Sure I can take a polished and visually stunning photo on my DSLR, but it's more rewarding and harder with a film camera. Film preserves the variables and really highlights a photog's skills. The good news about film is that both Ilford and Freestyle photo reported increased sales of traditional film products and chemicals in 2013. So, hopefully, it isn't going away any time soon.