I’ve found that getting the prism off is much easier if you press in the prism release button in with a coin, a dime or penny preferably because they’re thinner. Great video!
I don't know if it matters or not, but I think you have your focusing screen in backward at 3:20. This is from the manual of the F2AS regarding the direction of the focusing screen: "To mount a screen, simply place it in position with the flat side facing downward and the “Nikon” mark to the front of the camera. Then, press the finder release button and the screen will drop into place”.
It definitely would. If the screen is in backwards the lenses won't focus correctly. However, this camera's screen tray ought not be able to close without the screen mounted correctly.
Hi David, I enjoyed watching both of the videos about the F2 that you produced. Your presentation is easy to watch and loaded with good information about this amazing camera. I say "amazing" because I originally bought this camera when it first came out. Compared to my Exakta VX that I learned photography with, the F2 was certainly amazing. I had agonized between this camera and the Canon F1 that were both new at that time. I chose the F2 mainly because I liked that fact that Nikon did not obsolete the F lenses, which would have been a hardship on professional photographers that had a large investment in their lenses. The F2 addressed some of the shortcomings of the F model, which had run for about 12 years. Some of the improvements were important and some were very minor, but showed the attention to detail and the fact that Nikon was listening to its customers. For instance, the neck strap attachment points were moved forward on the camera body, so that the camera had less tendency to rotate forward while around the neck. They also put steel inserts in the attachment hole so that it would stand up to wear from the strap rings. The 1/80 flash sync speed was the fastest ever for a horizontal focal plane shutter. Sure, vertical shutters could do 1/125 of a second, but action shots have a creative element when used with a horizontal shutter. The metering system was simple to use, you didn't even have to turn it on as that was automatically done when you positioned the winding lever into the stand-off position. The camera was certainly designed for multiple exposures. There may be something wrong with your camera as my two F2 cameras advance a full frame after the second shot. The rewind lever can be moved up to a raised position while rewinding and it will stay there unless you turn the rewind lever in the wrong direction. The mirror box is remarkably free of mechanical protuberances that can cause artifacts in the exposure. The mirror is hinged in such a way that you can attach longer lenses than other cameras without having to lock up the mirror because of interference. On my two cameras, I have never used anything but air from a bulb blower to clean the mirror. This is because the mirrors are silvered on the front of the glass, not behind. This is to avoid mirror distortion but makes them susceptible to user abuse. Only for special shots have a taken off the skylight filters and as soon as the shots were taken, they went back on. Therefore, the front and back elements of my lenses have never been cleaned, although the filters certainly have. I also have a motor drive unit for my camera, just because. I only attach it to the more used camera as it abuses the underside a little. But here's some info. Yes, the alignment pin you refer to is the shutter release triggered from the motor drive. To install or remove the motor drive, you have to unscrew the screw that's in the center of the back opening ring. So, this must be done without film loaded in the camera. However, Nikon has a place on the motor drive for you to install the ring and screw so you don't lose it. The build quality of this camera, and the level of detail of its mechanics, make this camera representative of the upper echelon of manufacturing in any industry. I don't think we will ever see this kind of quality in a product that is within the reach of consumers. Sure it was made for professionals, but I was in high school when I bought mine. I still have the original boxes, printed matter, and the receipt that came with my camera. I hope I have added some interesting points to this discussion.
@@Jayysam95 I goofed. Was thinking of the F, where the battery goes in the prism. Didn't actually need to know that for the F2. For the camera's battery cap, does it thread on easily when there are no batteries in the chamber?
I have an F2AS and it is a wonderful piece of engineering. If you set the shutter speed dial to B and set the collar around the shutter release to T , you can do exposures of between 2 and 12 seconds using the self-timer. Set the self-timer to the desired exposure time and then press the shutter release. This opens the shutter and starts the self-timer in to motion. Once the self-timer has completed its journey the shutter closes - it is witchcraft!
Thank you a lot, this review is very good very helpful for me. Very like the double exposures part!!! Anyway, My f2 doesn’t have a light meter too, and that means it cannot set the ASA. Someone told me it’s gonna ruin my film. Is it true? Do I have to buy a light meter for f2? Thank you😁
Thank you! You do not need a light meter to take photos but it will help you with obtaining proper exposure. You can download a free light meter app for your phone and that will work, too. Just makes sure that the film's ISO and the ISO on the app match then you just need to calculate the aperture and shutter speed.
Last night I was just gifted a like new F2 with the metering prism finder. With a 50 1.4, 28mm and 35mm f2.8 and an 80-200 F4.5. All of it looks like it was never shot. And I know it was stored indoors in a box for years. I would prefer the I think it is called the DP 1 eye level finder but dang those things are stupid priced.
Hi David, beginner here and I’ve got an F2S. My question is: when I am metering, should I be metering with the depth of field button depressed? Or just with it normally?
Good question and just normally. Assuming everything is connected correctly (I'm not familiar with the meeting prism's specified interface) then the meter will work open aperture.
Thanks for the great reviews. It seems you have many Nikon film cameras. I'd be curious if you could mention which Nikon you would keep if all others had to go. Specifically, which one based on what you would shoot with every day and which one based on industrial design. I use all of my film cameras, but also consider them works of art. If they ever become to costly to repair, I'll just have them displayed rather than sell them.
Thank you! That's an easy one for me, the F3. The F4 and F5 have more capabilities, yes, but they are not good for hiking. The F and F2 are a bit too old. The F3 is light, reliable, and does everything I need. A close second would be the FM2. I suspect if I had an FM3A or F6 to try that I would pick one of those over all of them.
I have many Nikon cameras including an F2. I had an FM and gave it to my grandaughter. I have an EM, a Nikkormat Ft2 and an af F75. If I had to keep one it would be my FE.
One thing you didn't mention that I think a lot of people don't know you can do with an F2 is timed shutter speeds from 2-10 seconds or anywhere in between with the self timer. You set the shutter speed dial to "B" and the lock ring to "T." Then set the self timer to whatever time you want, then hit the shutter button not the button above the self timer. The shutter will open then close when the timer runs out. Also the reason the shutter speeds above 1/80 are green is because they are continuously variable and you can set intermediate speeds in case you need a half stop speed or your metered prism or hand held meter indicates correct exposure with a speed in between the numbered speeds. I'm guessing Nikon knew people would be taking double exposures as the procedure you mentioned is in the manual, though they recommend using a lens cap for the blank exposure. I've not seen manuals for other makes/models of camera mention this method. I don't recall what camera it was but something I had had a dot on the rewind button and they recommended taking a shot, then rewinding the film one rotation of the dot which was one frame. In practice it didn't really work that well. Maybe it was the Nikon F and the dot was on the shutter button itself which rotated? I don't really remember but I thought it was an odd method for double exposures.
Thank you! I can't believe that I forgot that. And yes, I believe the F had a rotating dial for double exposures, but it's been many years since I used one of those.
@@DavidHancock I actually was just looking at an F to go with my F2 and yes it's a dot on the shutter button, that doesn't seem like the most convenient double exposure method.
Have you had much experience with the Dp1 prisms and their light meters? I am troubleshooting a jumpy meter needle and overall exposure inaccuracy and wonder if you have any ideas on this? Thanks!
Not specifically, but in general a jumpy needle indicates either a failing galvanometer, weak battery, or a damaged electrical connection. If the battery is at fault, it's an easy fix. The other issues would require a professional repair to diagnose and correct.
Thank you! The FM does not accept NAI lenses, insofar as I recall. I haven't had one of those (or an FE, which has the same mount interface) in stock in a long time, however, so I can't check.
@@DavidHancock Thanks that would seem to be my experience so far as well. Dare I say better built than old Leicas? Yeah I know wash my mouth out with soap right!
David I recently pulled out my old nikkormat and sb-16 flash. I was unable to find the cord to attach the flash, so I ordered and sc-15. I also bought a used F2 and understand I need to have an as-2 adapter for it and an as-15 sync terminal adapter? unsure how all these bits and pieces work together. it appears the flash will mount to the as-1 but if I use an as-15 adapter, I assume the flash must be handheld? Is the sync adapter mandatory for the F2 to work with the sb-16? I have watched a few videos but haven't been able to find answers to these questions. thanks for any help you can provide!
The light meter on my Nikon F2 is not working. For a 1970’s camera is it worth having it repaired? I’m iffey on settings. If I shoot the camera wide open, f2.8 or wider, do I up the time setting to 500 or 1000 of a second? What is a safe time value for shots at f 5.6, f8, or f11? I’m a novice as you can see. Not too bright either. Thanks for your input and help if you have time. I don’t really want a separate hand held light meter. The prices are crazy. Thanks
@@DavidHancock Thanks for getting back to me. I actually got the light meter to work. The light no longer works, but the meter does. And come to think of it, I do have a light meter app. Anyway, thanks for getting back to me.
I have a jewelry of a black Nikon F and a more ordinary F2Sb. Unfortunately, they have become dust collectors. But you talked in the video about the use of flash with Nikon F2. I remember in my day had a very advanced Braun 410 VC flash for my OM-2. Very expensive and for professional use. Only the TTL cable for OM cost a fortune, but a play to work with, and OM2 metering, both with and without flash, was much better than Nikon had. I never got to use Oly's own flash. They were not powerful enough for my use, and mine was also rechargeable in 1979. www.optiksammlung.de/Braun/410VC.html
@@DavidHancock Back in those times, there were to flash manufacturer, Metz and Braun, and the others. The most popular of the others was the Vivitar 383, widely used, also for professionals. If they where branded Nikon, they where Metz.
@@protestagain I use the Vivitar 285 when I need more light than my Vivitar 252 can produce. But I rarely use flash as most of my photography is outdoors in daylight. The 252 has a GN of only 56 whereas the 252 is 141.
David Hancock it is a real handsome camera, but here in Rome, what you can get is what you can get and you really cant find much camera for a good price, a canon a1 cost 220euro , and a f3 cost 530, i guess f2 would be a good buy at 270 at least here in rome.
Between the shutter button and locking collar there's a thread. The old Nikons like the F and F2 require a different style of cable release that threads around the shutter button. Check online for a Nikon cable release adapter and you ought to be able to find one.
I've been wondering since I've got mine. I think it's all about doing tests. Here's my story... I got one from a friend who had it dusting in a closet since when he went to photography school around 2014. When I got, the ASA meter nob was stucked, and could not twist it. I opened the ASA nob and noticed it was stucked and was able to move it applying a little bit of pressure from the inside of the nobb. I got super excited that I was able to set up my ASA (ISO) on the camera. Then the big question came to my head.... If the prism is not necesary for the camera to be operated, how do you set up the ASA without it? What if i shoot a 100ASA film and then a 400ASA film, of course its going to look different with a good exposer, you see what i mean. If I dont set up something, I will be either pushing or pulling the film...... So how does the camera apply the setting or how does it affect the photo....????? Nobody has been able to answer my question.... In other words, how do I know what ASA is the camera set on, without having a prism viewfinder?
@@DavidHancock I do get that part, I always use a smartphone app (it's actualy called just "Light Meter") for my other film cameras. But my question is. How do you set up the ISO without a prism..... Let's put this scenario... I have an F2 without a prism viewfinder, and I have a Kodak gold 200 film and an cinestill 800t. Lets say i finished one roll after the other without changing anything on the camera settings. I will be either pushing or pulling the film speed on either one of the rolls right? or even both can be on a wrong ASA setting. It can even been set befor me using it, to 6400 ASA without me even knowing.... I dont know if I make myself clear. Sorry for my spanglish
@@fossacreativecircle6400 In that scenario, there's nothing to set up regarding the ISO on the camera. You just set the shutter speed and aperture based on your meter reading. These being full manual cameras will for what you tell it to, right or wrong. You need four data points for a proper exposure: light level, ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. If you have a handheld light meter with your ISO dialed in then it will tell you what to do for the aperture and shutter speed. Dial those in and you'll be fine. Just remember to keep the ISO setting on your app the same for the whole roll.
Thank you for taking the time to make an in-depth tutorial!
Thank you!
The problem with film photography ... Once you start; the electronic sensored DSLR gathers dust on a shelf ... Addictive !!! Thanks for posting ... ✌😎
Thank you! And yeah, I spend a lot of time cleaning sensor dust of my neglected DSLRs now.
Just got my first F2. Wohoo!
Nice!
me too! which variant did you get? Mines the F2SB
I’ve found that getting the prism off is much easier if you press in the prism release button in with a coin, a dime or penny preferably because they’re thinner. Great video!
Thank you and that would be a better way to do it!
I don't know if it matters or not, but I think you have your focusing screen in backward at 3:20. This is from the manual of the F2AS regarding the direction of the focusing screen: "To mount a screen, simply place it in position with the flat side facing downward and the “Nikon” mark to the front of the camera. Then, press the finder release button and the screen will drop into place”.
It definitely would. If the screen is in backwards the lenses won't focus correctly. However, this camera's screen tray ought not be able to close without the screen mounted correctly.
Hi David, I enjoyed watching both of the videos about the F2 that you produced. Your presentation is easy to watch and loaded with good information about this amazing camera. I say "amazing" because I originally bought this camera when it first came out. Compared to my Exakta VX that I learned photography with, the F2 was certainly amazing. I had agonized between this camera and the Canon F1 that were both new at that time. I chose the F2 mainly because I liked that fact that Nikon did not obsolete the F lenses, which would have been a hardship on professional photographers that had a large investment in their lenses. The F2 addressed some of the shortcomings of the F model, which had run for about 12 years. Some of the improvements were important and some were very minor, but showed the attention to detail and the fact that Nikon was listening to its customers.
For instance, the neck strap attachment points were moved forward on the camera body, so that the camera had less tendency to rotate forward while around the neck. They also put steel inserts in the attachment hole so that it would stand up to wear from the strap rings. The 1/80 flash sync speed was the fastest ever for a horizontal focal plane shutter. Sure, vertical shutters could do 1/125 of a second, but action shots have a creative element when used with a horizontal shutter. The metering system was simple to use, you didn't even have to turn it on as that was automatically done when you positioned the winding lever into the stand-off position. The camera was certainly designed for multiple exposures. There may be something wrong with your camera as my two F2 cameras advance a full frame after the second shot. The rewind lever can be moved up to a raised position while rewinding and it will stay there unless you turn the rewind lever in the wrong direction. The mirror box is remarkably free of mechanical protuberances that can cause artifacts in the exposure. The mirror is hinged in such a way that you can attach longer lenses than other cameras without having to lock up the mirror because of interference.
On my two cameras, I have never used anything but air from a bulb blower to clean the mirror. This is because the mirrors are silvered on the front of the glass, not behind. This is to avoid mirror distortion but makes them susceptible to user abuse. Only for special shots have a taken off the skylight filters and as soon as the shots were taken, they went back on. Therefore, the front and back elements of my lenses have never been cleaned, although the filters certainly have.
I also have a motor drive unit for my camera, just because. I only attach it to the more used camera as it abuses the underside a little. But here's some info. Yes, the alignment pin you refer to is the shutter release triggered from the motor drive. To install or remove the motor drive, you have to unscrew the screw that's in the center of the back opening ring. So, this must be done without film loaded in the camera. However, Nikon has a place on the motor drive for you to install the ring and screw so you don't lose it.
The build quality of this camera, and the level of detail of its mechanics, make this camera representative of the upper echelon of manufacturing in any industry. I don't think we will ever see this kind of quality in a product that is within the reach of consumers. Sure it was made for professionals, but I was in high school when I bought mine. I still have the original boxes, printed matter, and the receipt that came with my camera.
I hope I have added some interesting points to this discussion.
Thank you! There are a number of points in there that I didn't know.
Very straight forward video, I just bought an f2 and realized the battery door will not close even when batteries are installed correctly.
Which prism do you have on the camera?
@@DavidHancock I’m using a DP11 finder
@@Jayysam95 I goofed. Was thinking of the F, where the battery goes in the prism. Didn't actually need to know that for the F2.
For the camera's battery cap, does it thread on easily when there are no batteries in the chamber?
@@DavidHancock lol no worries, it threads perfectly with the battery out
I have an F2AS and it is a wonderful piece of engineering. If you set the shutter speed dial to B and set the collar around the shutter release to T , you can do exposures of between 2 and 12 seconds using the self-timer. Set the self-timer to the desired exposure time and then press the shutter release. This opens the shutter and starts the self-timer in to motion. Once the self-timer has completed its journey the shutter closes - it is witchcraft!
That is fantastic! I didn't know any camera had that and that's a very clever interface.
Thank you. Now I know the right way to remove the viewfinder. Before watching your video, I had strugle with it
Thank you!
Dude you use a new roll just tu explain us! +++++++ Thanks! ;O
Thank you; truth be told that roll probably expired in the 90s.
Thank you a lot, this review is very good very helpful for me. Very like the double exposures part!!!
Anyway, My f2 doesn’t have a light meter too, and that means it cannot set the ASA. Someone told me it’s gonna ruin my film. Is it true? Do I have to buy a light meter for f2? Thank you😁
Thank you! You do not need a light meter to take photos but it will help you with obtaining proper exposure. You can download a free light meter app for your phone and that will work, too. Just makes sure that the film's ISO and the ISO on the app match then you just need to calculate the aperture and shutter speed.
Last night I was just gifted a like new F2 with the metering prism finder. With a 50 1.4, 28mm and 35mm f2.8 and an 80-200 F4.5. All of it looks like it was never shot. And I know it was stored indoors in a box for years. I would prefer the I think it is called the DP 1 eye level finder but dang those things are stupid priced.
That's a fantastic gift!
@@DavidHancock Crazy right it makes a nice 2nd camera with my F3.
Thank you for the second part :)
Thank you!
Hi David, beginner here and I’ve got an F2S. My question is: when I am metering, should I be metering with the depth of field button depressed? Or just with it normally?
Good question and just normally. Assuming everything is connected correctly (I'm not familiar with the meeting prism's specified interface) then the meter will work open aperture.
Thanks for the great reviews. It seems you have many Nikon film cameras. I'd be curious if you could mention which Nikon you would keep if all others had to go. Specifically, which one based on what you would shoot with every day and which one based on industrial design. I use all of my film cameras, but also consider them works of art. If they ever become to costly to repair, I'll just have them displayed rather than sell them.
Thank you! That's an easy one for me, the F3. The F4 and F5 have more capabilities, yes, but they are not good for hiking. The F and F2 are a bit too old. The F3 is light, reliable, and does everything I need. A close second would be the FM2. I suspect if I had an FM3A or F6 to try that I would pick one of those over all of them.
@@DavidHancock Darn it! The local camera shop has an F3 (not sure which model) sitting on the shelf right now. Too many cameras, not enough time.
I have many Nikon cameras including an F2. I had an FM and gave it to my grandaughter.
I have an EM, a Nikkormat Ft2 and an af F75.
If I had to keep one it would be my FE.
One thing you didn't mention that I think a lot of people don't know you can do with an F2 is timed shutter speeds from 2-10 seconds or anywhere in between with the self timer. You set the shutter speed dial to "B" and the lock ring to "T." Then set the self timer to whatever time you want, then hit the shutter button not the button above the self timer. The shutter will open then close when the timer runs out. Also the reason the shutter speeds above 1/80 are green is because they are continuously variable and you can set intermediate speeds in case you need a half stop speed or your metered prism or hand held meter indicates correct exposure with a speed in between the numbered speeds. I'm guessing Nikon knew people would be taking double exposures as the procedure you mentioned is in the manual, though they recommend using a lens cap for the blank exposure. I've not seen manuals for other makes/models of camera mention this method. I don't recall what camera it was but something I had had a dot on the rewind button and they recommended taking a shot, then rewinding the film one rotation of the dot which was one frame. In practice it didn't really work that well. Maybe it was the Nikon F and the dot was on the shutter button itself which rotated? I don't really remember but I thought it was an odd method for double exposures.
Thank you! I can't believe that I forgot that. And yes, I believe the F had a rotating dial for double exposures, but it's been many years since I used one of those.
@@DavidHancock I actually was just looking at an F to go with my F2 and yes it's a dot on the shutter button, that doesn't seem like the most convenient double exposure method.
Have you had much experience with the Dp1 prisms and their light meters? I am troubleshooting a jumpy meter needle and overall exposure inaccuracy and wonder if you have any ideas on this?
Thanks!
Not specifically, but in general a jumpy needle indicates either a failing galvanometer, weak battery, or a damaged electrical connection. If the battery is at fault, it's an easy fix. The other issues would require a professional repair to diagnose and correct.
Excellent video ! Do you know if I can use pre ai lens like the FM on my F2A ?
Thank you! The FM does not accept NAI lenses, insofar as I recall. I haven't had one of those (or an FE, which has the same mount interface) in stock in a long time, however, so I can't check.
Hi David just wondering about the shutters in the Nikkormat FTn and the Nikon F2. Is the F2's shutter more reliable or accurate than the Nikkormat?
Honestly, no idea. I would say that in general vintage Nikons have excellent mechanical reliability.
@@DavidHancock Thanks that would seem to be my experience so far as well. Dare I say better built than old Leicas? Yeah I know wash my mouth out with soap right!
Will the camera break, if you go from 1/2000s to B directly, with out turning the wheel all the way back?
Mine doesn't.
David I recently pulled out my old nikkormat and sb-16 flash. I was unable to find the cord to attach the flash, so I ordered and sc-15. I also bought a used F2 and understand I need to have an as-2 adapter for it and an as-15 sync terminal adapter? unsure how all these bits and pieces work together. it appears the flash will mount to the as-1 but if I use an as-15 adapter, I assume the flash must be handheld? Is the sync adapter mandatory for the F2 to work with the sb-16? I have watched a few videos but haven't been able to find answers to these questions. thanks for any help you can provide!
Hey, Michael, I wish I could help. Nikon flash systems and cables are a mystery to me.
The light meter on my Nikon F2 is not working. For a 1970’s camera is it worth having it repaired? I’m iffey on settings. If I shoot the camera wide open, f2.8 or wider, do I up the time setting to 500 or 1000 of a second? What is a safe time value for shots at f 5.6, f8, or f11? I’m a novice as you can see. Not too bright either. Thanks for your input and help if you have time. I don’t really want a separate hand held light meter. The prices are crazy. Thanks
It's up to you if you want it to be fully working or not. You can use a free light meter cell phone app and get accurate readings, too.
@@DavidHancock Thanks for getting back to me. I actually got the light meter to work. The light no longer works, but the meter does. And come to think of it, I do have a light meter app. Anyway, thanks for getting back to me.
I have a jewelry of a black Nikon F and a more ordinary F2Sb. Unfortunately, they have become dust collectors. But you talked in the video about the use of flash with Nikon F2. I remember in my day had a very advanced Braun 410 VC flash for my OM-2. Very expensive and for professional use. Only the TTL cable for OM cost a fortune, but a play to work with, and OM2 metering, both with and without flash, was much better than Nikon had. I never got to use Oly's own flash. They were not powerful enough for my use, and mine was also rechargeable in 1979.
www.optiksammlung.de/Braun/410VC.html
Nice!
@@DavidHancock Back in those times, there were to flash manufacturer, Metz and Braun, and the others. The most popular of the others was the Vivitar 383, widely used, also for professionals. If they where branded Nikon, they where Metz.
@@protestagain I use the Vivitar 285 when I need more light than my Vivitar 252 can produce. But I rarely use flash as most of my photography is outdoors in daylight. The 252 has a GN of only 56 whereas the 252 is 141.
I wonder if i should actually get a F2
If it provides a need that you can't currently fill with other cameras, sure.
David Hancock it is a real handsome camera, but here in Rome, what you can get is what you can get and you really cant find much camera for a good price, a canon a1 cost 220euro , and a f3 cost 530, i guess f2 would be a good buy at 270 at least here in rome.
How do you attach a cable release on the f2?
Between the shutter button and locking collar there's a thread. The old Nikons like the F and F2 require a different style of cable release that threads around the shutter button. Check online for a Nikon cable release adapter and you ought to be able to find one.
@@DavidHancock my 1957 Yashica Mat uses the same cable release adapter.
So you don't have to set up an ASA?
You do if you have a metered prism.
How do i set ISO?
That depends on the prism that you have attached. Not all prisms have an ISO setting. If yours does, it will be marked ASA, which is the same.
I've been wondering since I've got mine. I think it's all about doing tests. Here's my story... I got one from a friend who had it dusting in a closet since when he went to photography school around 2014. When I got, the ASA meter nob was stucked, and could not twist it. I opened the ASA nob and noticed it was stucked and was able to move it applying a little bit of pressure from the inside of the nobb. I got super excited that I was able to set up my ASA (ISO) on the camera. Then the big question came to my head.... If the prism is not necesary for the camera to be operated, how do you set up the ASA without it? What if i shoot a 100ASA film and then a 400ASA film, of course its going to look different with a good exposer, you see what i mean. If I dont set up something, I will be either pushing or pulling the film...... So how does the camera apply the setting or how does it affect the photo....????? Nobody has been able to answer my question.... In other words, how do I know what ASA is the camera set on, without having a prism viewfinder?
@@fossacreativecircle6400 without a metered prism you would just use a hand-held light meter or a smartphone lighter meter app.
@@DavidHancock I do get that part, I always use a smartphone app (it's actualy called just "Light Meter") for my other film cameras. But my question is. How do you set up the ISO without a prism.....
Let's put this scenario... I have an F2 without a prism viewfinder, and I have a Kodak gold 200 film and an cinestill 800t. Lets say i finished one roll after the other without changing anything on the camera settings. I will be either pushing or pulling the film speed on either one of the rolls right? or even both can be on a wrong ASA setting. It can even been set befor me using it, to 6400 ASA without me even knowing.... I dont know if I make myself clear. Sorry for my spanglish
@@fossacreativecircle6400 In that scenario, there's nothing to set up regarding the ISO on the camera. You just set the shutter speed and aperture based on your meter reading. These being full manual cameras will for what you tell it to, right or wrong. You need four data points for a proper exposure: light level, ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. If you have a handheld light meter with your ISO dialed in then it will tell you what to do for the aperture and shutter speed. Dial those in and you'll be fine. Just remember to keep the ISO setting on your app the same for the whole roll.
That was a waste of time
Absolutely. Any time someone leaves a comment that's this generic and uncreative, it is a waste of their time to post it.