This THE best TH-cam on this topic. I like that he has experience with the non-OEM parts and knows they work. I think for GE just the heater is $84.00. To get it all delivered for under $20.00, Amazing!!!
I have a GE Monogram frige almost 20 years old. Refrigerator getting too warm f& bottom freezer too cold. The evaporator coil now ices up and when I defrost with a hair dryer everything's good until it ices up again at the end of the day and frige starts getting warmer. What parts do you suggest I replace?
@@DIYRepairsNow thank you. It's a bottom freezer. I'd like to get two or three parts so I can open it up again and replace most probable faulty parts. While I could be cometely wrong, I think whats happens is the coils freeze and block cold air going to fridge? I forgot to add that it sounds like water is running in fridge section above freezer but don't have any water supply up there and ice maker is off and hasn't been working for over a decade.
It was indeed the defrost thermostat. The old defrost thermostat was puffed out like it shorted. HOWEVER, it didn't work until I reset the freezer by pushing in the switch three times. It's the switch that gets activated when the door closes.
Thanks for such good detail on how to test the 3 components of the freezer defrost cycle 👍. I just defrosted my GE with a hair dryer, and I likely wasted my time because it will freeze-up again due to one of the 3 components you show being defective - root cause of the failure. Mama is in a hurry to get her fridge back, so I'm going to check those components now, instead of waiting to see if it will freeze up again when full of groceries. I'm curious why you prefer the ON@30 / OFF@140(F) thermostat vs. the stock ON@22 / OFF@47(F). Mama likes her freezer to be near 0(F) so that may be hard to do with the suggested thermostat. UPDATE: The amazon link provided leads to "GE WR50X10068" which is the L140-30 version used for demonstration purposes, but the part recommended as shown in the video is a "GE WR50X60", an L60-20 OFF/ON span. The span of 60-20 makes more sense to me, so Mama's fridge is going to get the "GE WR50X60". I like your suggestion to seal the wire nuts with silicone sealant to prevent corrosion in a high humidity environment. I would like to suggest the use of silicone applied to the heater terminals after they are connected - the melted heater terminals shown in your video are likely from corrosion that generates heat do to exposure to the humidity and thousands of heat/cool cycles with a greater temperature span than the terminals at the top of the coils.
The 50X10068 Thermostat is the one in the link, but in the audio of the TH-cam you say you like to use the 50X60 for all of this type of GE Fir/Freezer. That confused me a little bit. Could you teach me which is best, please?
Curious, why do you suggest the WR50X60 instead of the OEM defrost thermostat? I just installed a L140- 30F in a GE since that is what came with it, but if there is an advantage the L60-32F then I will get that one.
Did you buy the cheap Parts off Amazon or did you get the GE factory parts? I’m betting Amazon. They are junk. Get the OEM parts And it will be good for 5-10 more years
Yes I’m going to make another video showing how that’s done but this video is more for people that doesn’t have any experience on appliance repair thanks for your comment💯👍🏻👍🏻
@@DIYRepairsNow I think I might be having the same problem is there any way you can show the video how to test using the main board so this way I don't have to go out and buy unnecessary parts to replace.
This THE best TH-cam on this topic. I like that he has experience with the non-OEM parts and knows they work. I think for GE just the heater is $84.00. To get it all delivered for under $20.00, Amazing!!!
Thanks just what I need to get freezer working properly again
Steamer is an excellent idea.
Hair dryer does work.
I used squeegee to slop the water I to a cake pan.
Great video.... There are several heaters out there.... Other than taking the freezer apart How to tell which one is right?
You have to look it up by the model number
I have a GE Monogram frige almost 20 years old. Refrigerator getting too warm f& bottom freezer too cold. The evaporator coil now ices up and when I defrost with a hair dryer everything's good until it ices up again at the end of the day and frige starts getting warmer. What parts do you suggest I replace?
Defrost thermostat that’s the most common one
If it’s a French door maybe the evaporator
Termistor those are the most common on GE‘s
@@DIYRepairsNow thank you. It's a bottom freezer. I'd like to get two or three parts so I can open it up again and replace most probable faulty parts. While I could be cometely wrong, I think whats happens is the coils freeze and block cold air going to fridge? I forgot to add that it sounds like water is running in fridge section above freezer but don't have any water supply up there and ice maker is off and hasn't been working for over a decade.
It was indeed the defrost thermostat. The old defrost thermostat was puffed out like it shorted. HOWEVER, it didn't work until I reset the freezer by pushing in the switch three times. It's the switch that gets activated when the door closes.
@@richardl3720 I did the same as you but still not working. What switch exactly did you push 3 times? Very anxious. Thank you.
Thanks for such good detail on how to test the 3 components of the freezer defrost cycle 👍. I just defrosted my GE with a hair dryer, and I likely wasted my time because it will freeze-up again due to one of the 3 components you show being defective - root cause of the failure. Mama is in a hurry to get her fridge back, so I'm going to check those components now, instead of waiting to see if it will freeze up again when full of groceries.
I'm curious why you prefer the ON@30 / OFF@140(F) thermostat vs. the stock ON@22 / OFF@47(F). Mama likes her freezer to be near 0(F) so that may be hard to do with the suggested thermostat. UPDATE: The amazon link provided leads to "GE WR50X10068" which is the L140-30 version used for demonstration purposes, but the part recommended as shown in the video is a "GE WR50X60", an L60-20 OFF/ON span. The span of 60-20 makes more sense to me, so Mama's fridge is going to get the "GE WR50X60".
I like your suggestion to seal the wire nuts with silicone sealant to prevent corrosion in a high humidity environment. I would like to suggest the use of silicone applied to the heater terminals after they are connected - the melted heater terminals shown in your video are likely from corrosion that generates heat do to exposure to the humidity and thousands of heat/cool cycles with a greater temperature span than the terminals at the top of the coils.
The 50X10068 Thermostat is the one in the link, but in the audio of the TH-cam you say you like to use the 50X60 for all of this type of GE Fir/Freezer. That confused me a little bit. Could you teach me which is best, please?
You can test the defrost thermostat by spraying it with a upside down can of air duster or air spray. It will instantly freeze the defrost thermostat
Anyone know where I can find replacement door handles for this fridge?
I did all what you did 😊
I changed the heating element and the two thermostat on the freezer side. I cleaned the coils. All fans are running. I'm not sure what else to change
Change the board as last resort
how do you know if it is not the defrost timer first? or do this model not have a defrost timer?
This model does not have defrost timer. It has a computer board. And the heat element and defrost thermostat didn’t have any continuity.
Curious, why do you suggest the WR50X60 instead of the OEM defrost thermostat? I just installed a L140- 30F in a GE since that is what came with it, but if there is an advantage the L60-32F then I will get that one.
What is the number of the kit for the HHS25GFTAWW refrigerator
For the thermostat placement - you say "Put it in place where it goes." Where does it go??
We replaced that unit 3 times and it still freezes up and stops working. Any ideas ? Thank you
Did you buy the cheap
Parts off Amazon or did you get the GE factory parts? I’m betting Amazon. They are junk. Get the OEM parts
And it will be good for
5-10 more years
I replaced everything but it's still frosting up the fan is on but not blowing cold air fridge side is not cooling
Just FYI, You can also cool the thermostat to below 30 buy turning a can of air blaster upside down and bathe it in the liquid propellant.
You can test all these components through the main board too without disconnecting.
Yes I’m going to make another video showing how that’s done but this video is more for people that doesn’t have any experience on appliance repair thanks for your comment💯👍🏻👍🏻
@@DIYRepairsNow I think I might be having the same problem is there any way you can show the video how to test using the main board so this way I don't have to go out and buy unnecessary parts to replace.
Link to the kit?
Links To All Parts, Including the Kit, Are in the Description of this Video.