Hello Brian, I am a new turner and I find your videos very helpful. You give the detail needed quickly and clear. Your photography and audio is excellent. Enjoy seeing your shop as we can all get some new ideas now and then!! Thanks for your help.
Hi Brian, another great video. The time you've spent on these presentations is very evident and wanted to say thanks for sharing so much. Really enjoy attending the School of Brian!
Thanks for solving the "mystery"...yes, it is as good as sliced bread! At the end I realized I had ground my home made parting tool to look like the suggested profile. Brian, I enjoy your videos very much. They are an important contribution to my learning. Thank you for the effort you go to to make them.
Glad to find so much detail in this video. I have had a bedan for only two months and love it for rapidly making tenons and peeling away wood. I have used it a bit for rolling over small edges or planing small sections as well. I didn't realize how versatile of a tool it really is.
I am so appreciative if your instructional videos Brian. I'm going to regrind a 'retired' parting tool into a bidan as you have and give it a go. Cheers
Very Cool!! I love my parting tool shaped like this. It's a D-Way M42 Cobalt steel so it's stays sharp fairly long. I never thought of it as a "Bedan" though. I feel it's very easy to work with. I never thought of laying it on it's side though. So, that's what I'm going to do!! Thanks Brian...you're a very good teacher!!
This makes me happy. I started out with tools similar to bedans (in fact they were old mortising chisels.). I got used to them and still much prefer them over skews. So much easier to use. Great explanation. Thanks!
Thanks a bunch, Brian. I use a Bedan parting tool much like you do, but I never thought to use it making captive rings. I'll have to try that. You also had some other tips I'll steal :-) Interestingly, I got to the full-on Bedan parting tool from something very like the grind you showed last. I found an Ellsworth article in American Woodturner where he recommended that grind. Then I just kept grinding the long curve and eventually lost the short one altogether. I also use a 3/8 square Bedan tool with about a 7 degree skew on the grind to make tenons (ground face down) and mortises (tool rest *very* close to the bowl bottom). Great, under-appreciated tools, and your usual clear and thorough explanation. Clyde
Great video! The double angle worked best for me. As a new wood turner I am selective of what tools I buy. I tried this with a Hobo freight scraper. I think there like $40. I got them when I first started. WORST STEEL IN THE WORLD. But this worked and I tried both angles to see what works best for me. Its only 3/16 x 1/2 bar. But still works great as a parting tool with a little more versatility. Ill have to try this with some good quality tool steel to see the real benefits I'm sure. Thanks
I just bought a lathe and came with alot of chisels. one looks like the Bedan you just demonstrated. It is smaller, for detail work, but now I am curious to use it. Thank you for the video.
I have a 3/8 wide Bedan that i use for hogging out lots of material. I also have a 1/8" wide Bedan that i'm going to try some beading with. Thanks for the video!
Also forgot to ask...the bedan you are using or demo'd, what is it's width? Not the parting tool ground like a bedan, but the bedan itself, whether English or French. I was thinking I'd get a 3/8" wide one but if I bought a 1/2" wide bedan it might have more uses as you demonstrated. I was thinking it would most often be used for cutting tenons. Would appreciate your take on this.
Brian, This may be THE best video I have ever seen. I was looking for info on Bedans (anything really) Your information covered and answered so many questions. One of which is the difference between a bedan and a beading and parting tool. Thanks very much. Do you have any information on the english Bedan? Is it used primarily for parting or making straight tenons? Sam Angelo
I don't know much about English Bedans, beyond what Jean-François Escoulen briefly explained to me at the Symposium. He said that the English Bedan was used with the bevel down as a parting tool. The trapezoidal shape allows for clearance on either side of the cut when parting, but that the same trapezoidal shape makes the tool (the corners) too aggressive when used bevel up for cuts beyond parting cuts.
Thanks for your videos. Very helpful as I learn to turn. I saw on your website you mention that you put a bees was finish on an oak platter. Do you have any videos detailing how to do this and your other finishing methods - esp for food use. Thanks.
I don't have any videos on applying bee's wax, but if you search for Richard Raffan videos (or if your club as a library with his videos), he often uses it. Essentially, apply some wax to the work while it is rotating, and then hold a cloth to the work to heat up the wax. Just be sure to never wrap the cloth around you hands or fingers, should it get caught on the work.
Hello Brian, has their been any negatives about changing the tool to a bedan, ive just reground my parting tool to the bedan style and am really liking it, seems a lot more versatile to me.
About 40 degrees, but when grinding a tall (1/2") tool like that one has to be aware that the bevel angle ends up narrower given the same grinder platform setting. In other words, if a 1/4" tall tool ground with a platform setup yields 40 degrees, a 1/2" tall tool on the same platform setting will result in a 35 degree angle. To compensate when grinding the parting tool, I add a little spacer (perhaps a scrap of 1/8" plywood or masonite) at the bottom of the platform to lift up the handle just a bit.
I noticed that your tools are curved (doubtless from the shape of the grinding wheel itself). Is there an advantage to this? I was taught to sharpen parting tools flat on the table (set up to 90 degrees) so that the curve would actually be across the cutting edge instead of along the long part of the bevel (not sure if my terminology is right here). The idea is that it makes an extremely shallow flute that cuts more effectively. Experimenting with this, I think it definitely makes a difference with a traditional parting tool, but I'm not so sure it would be a good idea here. Maybe it would cause problems with the point cuts, for example.
It sounds like you are referring to the hollow grind on the bevel. The only advantage I can think of is that it is easy to do. I have heard some turners say that a hollow grind tends to be more grabby, but I have not noticed this myself. Also note that when the bevel is honed, the very tip is flat, with the rest of the hollow bevel acting like a relief.
Hey Brian, With what tool do you start? In the video, it appears that the parting tool is maybe 3/16" x 3/4". I only have a Sorby 1/8" x 1/2" parting tool.
My two began paring tools started out as standard 1/8" and 1/16" wide parting tools (both about 1/2" high). The height of the parting tool is just to make the tool rigid, so the specific height is not important. You can also buy bits intended for metal working lathes and make your own.
Great video, i love how much more can be done with this style tool. Can i ask where you got your green jacket from i have been searching for agers for one with short sleeves.
European parting tools tend to be single beveled and so is mine. I never could see the benefit of an double bevel. I believe it even puts the fulcrum in an bad position as the cutting pressure wants to catch the tool. with single bevel it only pushes back.
Where they both a standard parting tools before you changed them. I liked the last idea you came up with if one would not be stisfied with thhe canging. Thank you for a very educading video. I am sure that I will try somthing like that, thank you. Júlíus.
interesting I have been using this I was trying to make a tool for doing dovetail expanse for my chucks and messed my first one up and and reground it into a to a single bevel tool for some parting I inherited a set of bedans a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" I thought they were just chisels now I know what they are
Hello Brian, I am a new turner and I find your videos very helpful. You give the detail needed quickly and clear. Your photography and audio is excellent. Enjoy seeing your shop as we can all get some new ideas now and then!! Thanks for your help.
You are an excellent teacher, very thorough and clear. This is interesting and I'm going to try this. Thanks.
Hi Brian, another great video. The time you've spent on these presentations is very evident and wanted to say thanks for sharing so much. Really enjoy attending the School of Brian!
Thanks for solving the "mystery"...yes, it is as good as sliced bread! At the end I realized I had ground my home made parting tool to look like the suggested profile. Brian, I enjoy your videos very much. They are an important contribution to my learning. Thank you for the effort you go to to make them.
Best video I've seen on Bedans.
Glad to find so much detail in this video. I have had a bedan for only two months and love it for rapidly making tenons and peeling away wood. I have used it a bit for rolling over small edges or planing small sections as well. I didn't realize how versatile of a tool it really is.
Awesome video. Very good and clear explanation of the bedan tool.
I am so appreciative if your instructional videos Brian. I'm going to regrind a 'retired' parting tool into a bidan as you have and give it a go. Cheers
Very Cool!! I love my parting tool shaped like this. It's a D-Way M42 Cobalt steel so it's stays sharp fairly long. I never thought of it as a "Bedan" though. I feel it's very easy to work with. I never thought of laying it on it's side though. So, that's what I'm going to do!! Thanks Brian...you're a very good teacher!!
Great video on this subject. Learned a lot.
Thanks for your time on this series.
cheers
Thank you - this is saved to my watch list.
Thanks for all of your quality videos, lots of good useful info for us newbies. Best wishes!
Hi Brian, Thank you for Sharing with us. Great tutorial
This makes me happy. I started out with tools similar to bedans (in fact they were old mortising chisels.). I got used to them and still much prefer them over skews. So much easier to use. Great explanation. Thanks!
Thanks a bunch, Brian. I use a Bedan parting tool much like you do, but I never thought to use it making captive rings. I'll have to try that. You also had some other tips I'll steal :-) Interestingly, I got to the full-on Bedan parting tool from something very like the grind you showed last. I found an Ellsworth article in American Woodturner where he recommended that grind. Then I just kept grinding the long curve and eventually lost the short one altogether. I also use a 3/8 square Bedan tool with about a 7 degree skew on the grind to make tenons (ground face down) and mortises (tool rest *very* close to the bowl bottom). Great, under-appreciated tools, and your usual clear and thorough explanation. Clyde
Thanks for another good video Brian.
A lot of really great information there! Thanks for the video---much appreciated!
You do a wonderful job of teaching. Excellent video... thank you. Definitely worth a subscribe and a share.
Great video..i love the sanding trick of captive ring..thanks for sharing
Great video, very informative, thank you!
I watched it again....still a really fine video
Sam
super informative video , thank you Brian!
Great video! The double angle worked best for me. As a new wood turner I am selective of what tools I buy. I tried this with a Hobo freight scraper. I think there like $40. I got them when I first started. WORST STEEL IN THE WORLD. But this worked and I tried both angles to see what works best for me. Its only 3/16 x 1/2 bar. But still works great as a parting tool with a little more versatility. Ill have to try this with some good quality tool steel to see the real benefits I'm sure. Thanks
I just bought a lathe and came with alot of chisels. one looks like the Bedan you just demonstrated. It is smaller, for detail work, but now I am curious to use it. Thank you for the video.
I have a 3/8 wide Bedan that i use for hogging out lots of material. I also have a 1/8" wide Bedan that i'm going to try some beading with.
Thanks for the video!
Brian thanks for the info. I am going to give it a try! BTW new subscriber.
excellent instructional video
good morning. sir your all tools desing gvery nice👍
Great instructional video! Thank you for the lesson! Like!
This is amazing!
Well, I'll bedan! I know what I'll be doing tonight 😊
Thanks for the explanation
oh ya, got to make one... thanks...
Also forgot to ask...the bedan you are using or demo'd, what is it's width? Not the parting tool ground like a bedan, but the bedan itself, whether English or French. I was thinking I'd get a 3/8" wide one but if I bought a 1/2" wide bedan it might have more uses as you demonstrated. I was thinking it would most often be used for cutting tenons. Would appreciate your take on this.
Brian, This may be THE best video I have ever seen. I was looking for info on Bedans (anything really) Your information covered and answered so many questions. One of which is the difference between a bedan and a beading and parting tool. Thanks very much. Do you have any information on the english Bedan? Is it used primarily for parting or making straight tenons?
Sam Angelo
I don't know much about English Bedans, beyond what Jean-François Escoulen briefly explained to me at the Symposium. He said that the English Bedan was used with the bevel down as a parting tool. The trapezoidal shape allows for clearance on either side of the cut when parting, but that the same trapezoidal shape makes the tool (the corners) too aggressive when used bevel up for cuts beyond parting cuts.
great. does this tool work on the pole lathe as well?
Thanks for your videos. Very helpful as I learn to turn. I saw on your website you mention that you put a bees was finish on an oak platter.
Do you have any videos detailing how to do this and your other finishing methods - esp for food use. Thanks.
I don't have any videos on applying bee's wax, but if you search for Richard Raffan videos (or if your club as a library with his videos), he often uses it. Essentially, apply some wax to the work while it is rotating, and then hold a cloth to the work to heat up the wax. Just be sure to never wrap the cloth around you hands or fingers, should it get caught on the work.
Thank you
Brian, thanks for another great video. What angle is the grind on the Bedan? 40 degrees?
Interesting, what is the angle on the bedan parting tool?
Hello Brian, has their been any negatives about changing the tool to a bedan, ive just reground my parting tool to the bedan style and am really liking it, seems a lot more versatile to me.
what's the angle on the tool .
About 40 degrees, but when grinding a tall (1/2") tool like that one has to be aware that the bevel angle ends up narrower given the same grinder platform setting. In other words, if a 1/4" tall tool ground with a platform setup yields 40 degrees, a 1/2" tall tool on the same platform setting will result in a 35 degree angle. To compensate when grinding the parting tool, I add a little spacer (perhaps a scrap of 1/8" plywood or masonite) at the bottom of the platform to lift up the handle just a bit.
MANUEL GARZA 6
I noticed that your tools are curved (doubtless from the shape of the grinding wheel itself). Is there an advantage to this? I was taught to sharpen parting tools flat on the table (set up to 90 degrees) so that the curve would actually be across the cutting edge instead of along the long part of the bevel (not sure if my terminology is right here). The idea is that it makes an extremely shallow flute that cuts more effectively. Experimenting with this, I think it definitely makes a difference with a traditional parting tool, but I'm not so sure it would be a good idea here. Maybe it would cause problems with the point cuts, for example.
It sounds like you are referring to the hollow grind on the bevel. The only advantage I can think of is that it is easy to do. I have heard some turners say that a hollow grind tends to be more grabby, but I have not noticed this myself. Also note that when the bevel is honed, the very tip is flat, with the rest of the hollow bevel acting like a relief.
+Brian Havens thanks!
Hey Brian, With what tool do you start? In the video, it appears that the parting tool is maybe 3/16" x 3/4". I only have a Sorby 1/8" x 1/2" parting tool.
My two began paring tools started out as standard 1/8" and 1/16" wide parting tools (both about 1/2" high). The height of the parting tool is just to make the tool rigid, so the specific height is not important. You can also buy bits intended for metal working lathes and make your own.
Great video, i love how much more can be done with this style tool. Can i ask where you got your green jacket from i have been searching for agers for one with short sleeves.
I bought my jacket from Craft Supplies years ago. Apparently they no longer carry it. :-(
European parting tools tend to be single beveled and so is mine. I never could see the benefit of an double bevel. I believe it even puts the fulcrum in an bad position as the cutting pressure wants to catch the tool. with single bevel it only pushes back.
Thanks, This is great... Till next time..
Where they both a standard parting tools before you changed them. I liked the last idea you came up with if one would not be stisfied with thhe canging. Thank you for a very educading video. I am sure that I will try somthing like that, thank you.
Júlíus.
Yes, both were originally standard parting tools.
interesting I have been using this I was trying to make a tool for doing dovetail expanse for my chucks and messed my first one up and and reground it into a to a single bevel tool for some parting I inherited a set of bedans a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" I thought they were just chisels now I know what they are
Wunderbar
For those unaware, Brian was killed in a car accident apparently, along with his wife... very very sad. :(
Thank you for sharing that. I was unaware. I have only recently discovered his channel and find them to be some of the best instruction on TH-cam.
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