You are an inspiration to me. I am several years older than you but find your hard work without compromise, no excuses just get it done. I like the fact you are not discouraged by working alone but forge on often using improvisation to create tools and support mechanisms that facilitate "extra hands" to get the job done. Thank you for forging on and keeping yourself fit and flexible so you are able to do work many people our age cannot do. Thanks again I enjoy your videos immensely and encourage me to stay healthy, flexible and fit. Truly an example to emulate by all our age.
Thank you, that is very kind.. I refuse to get old, of course nature does what it does and its unavoidable.. However I see age just as a number, me (64)and my girlfriend (60) do exercise and watch what we eat... no smoking, no drinking... Anyhow, nobody should underestimate elderly
Steve - Great Video!!! Your comment about how hot a fire can be by looking at the color of steel is spot on. I did many refinery fire rebuilds during my career and when we did damage assessment to determine the heat impacted zones, we always looked for the color of the steel or iron components as a prime indicator. A purplish-blue or metallic blue color is an indication of the heat having passed the metal transition temperature range, which is over 1100 degrees F or 593 degrees C. Once the metal has been heated beyond that range, it is no longer usable and must be replaced.
Another great video Steve. I 100% agree with your advice to have a plumbed in system. Most important in an emergency situation is to get out of the car asap. Pulling a lever/handle takes a second, messing around trying to get a handheld extinguisher free can take several seconds. One option I'd suggest to have in addition to a plumbed in system is a firestick. They are similar size to a emergency flare and very light, but excellent at putting out a range of fires. It could be mounted almost anywhere for ease of access. Sorry to hear that car won't be repaired, but I think it's the best option. Hopefully the owner will get something similar to replace it and get back on track soon. Best wishes from Ireland
Spot on with the recommendations on fire systems. I raced throughout the 80s, always in saloons, and the regs only required a stand alone extinguisher clamped to the cockpit floor. General consensus among drivers was that if the car caught alight we were outa there, and the extinguisher could look after itself. As for the exhaust, given it points towards the car, it should not terminate until behind the driver's seat. On modern racing Caterhams in the UK the exhaust ends just in front of the rear wheel and it points away from the car.
I had already replaced these hoses. The hose at the T piece (dead end) you see some cracks. Also on the pressure side of each hose clamp they are already swollen also there is grease around the filter and the pump. A new hose does not tear as quickly as these did in the gravel box. My experience is that the hoses will be hard instead of soft with the modern fuels.
Indeed, and all that work was planned . I have seen hoses that were soft by the ethanol and others became brittle ... I guess i depends on the compound of the rubber
Indeed, and all that work was planned . I have seen hoses that were soft by the ethanol and others became brittle ... I guess i depends on the compound of the rubber
Is Novec one of those gases that can make you lose consciousness ? I don't think it would be smart to use that type of extinguisher in a plumbed-in system ; pull the trigger, you go under, but if the gas only extinguish half the fire, you are toast :/
Well that might be true, but its been promoted and used in many race cars. This is what I got ... Hope never having to prove it. 1. Effective Fire Suppression: Rapid Action: Novec 1230 extinguishes fires quickly by disrupting the chemical reaction of combustion. It's effective against Class A, B, and C fires. No Residue: Unlike water-based systems, Novec 1230 leaves no residue, so there's no cleanup required after discharge. This makes it ideal for protecting sensitive equipment and electronics. 2. Safety: Low Toxicity: Novec 1230 is safe for occupied spaces because it has low toxicity and a high safety margin. It doesn’t deplete oxygen levels, so people can safely evacuate without breathing difficulties. Environmentally Friendly: Novec 1230 has a low Global Warming Potential (GWP) and is not ozone-depleting, making it a more environmentally friendly option compared to other chemical agents like Halon.
What is your opinion on Fire Safety Sticks? Myself and many kit car owners who cannot justify the cost of a plumbed in system are now switching to them as they seem a better option than a hand-held extinguisher
@@D3Sshooter Long, long ago and far, far away... 1974. Bridgehampton racetrack on Long Island in New York, USA. It has the same sandy look and feel of Zandvoort. The track was old and bumpy. Today's F1 probably couldn't even run there. On the back of the course is a variable radius fast left-hand sweeper. Speculation was that a FF could go through in 4th. My car was a Caldwell D9 with race slicks. Similar to a Merlyn but with a stronger frame. (thank goodness). On a practice/track day I decided to try 4th gear (~100 mph). I knew subconsciously that a Ford with power on would understeer and power off would oversteer, but I wasn't thinking about that. I went through the turn with part throttle and the tail snapped out. I almost caught it but went at the sand hill on the inside of the corner. I saw a lot of blurry tan. When everything stopped, I was on the top of the hill upside down. My first reaction was that I couldn't move. Then I grabbed the 6-point harness latch and dropped ~2 feet to the ground. I went to the hospital and had my entire spine and other stuff x-rayed. I had no physical damage. The car needed to be rejigged. BTW: People wonder if your life flashes before your eyes when you are going to crash. I've talked to several people who crashed, and they pretty much say the same thing. The only thoughts they had were "This is going to hurt" or (mine) "Oh sh*t". Sorry, this is almost as long as your video. lol
You are an inspiration to me. I am several years older than you but find your hard work without compromise, no excuses just get it done. I like the fact you are not discouraged by working alone but forge on often using improvisation to create tools and support mechanisms that facilitate "extra hands" to get the job done. Thank you for forging on and keeping yourself fit and flexible so you are able to do work many people our age cannot do.
Thanks again I enjoy your videos immensely and encourage me to stay healthy, flexible and fit. Truly an example to emulate by all our age.
Thank you, that is very kind.. I refuse to get old, of course nature does what it does and its unavoidable.. However I see age just as a number, me (64)and my girlfriend (60) do exercise and watch what we eat... no smoking, no drinking... Anyhow, nobody should underestimate elderly
Very well explained, great video
Thank you
Steve - Great Video!!! Your comment about how hot a fire can be by looking at the color of steel is spot on. I did many refinery fire rebuilds during my career and when we did damage assessment to determine the heat impacted zones, we always looked for the color of the steel or iron components as a prime indicator. A purplish-blue or metallic blue color is an indication of the heat having passed the metal transition temperature range, which is over 1100 degrees F or 593 degrees C. Once the metal has been heated beyond that range, it is no longer usable and must be replaced.
Thank you for the comments, Ron
Really good series, thanks for your work!
Thanks
Hello Steve, thank you for your video, very well explained.🙂👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You are very welcome
Another great video Steve. I 100% agree with your advice to have a plumbed in system. Most important in an emergency situation is to get out of the car asap. Pulling a lever/handle takes a second, messing around trying to get a handheld extinguisher free can take several seconds.
One option I'd suggest to have in addition to a plumbed in system is a firestick. They are similar size to a emergency flare and very light, but excellent at putting out a range of fires. It could be mounted almost anywhere for ease of access.
Sorry to hear that car won't be repaired, but I think it's the best option. Hopefully the owner will get something similar to replace it and get back on track soon.
Best wishes from Ireland
Thanks for the comments and write-up. The car was just sold a few minutes ago... and the owner (ex) is looking at buying another one
Spot on with the recommendations on fire systems. I raced throughout the 80s, always in saloons, and the regs only required a stand alone extinguisher clamped to the cockpit floor. General consensus among drivers was that if the car caught alight we were outa there, and the extinguisher could look after itself. As for the exhaust, given it points towards the car, it should not terminate until behind the driver's seat. On modern racing Caterhams in the UK the exhaust ends just in front of the rear wheel and it points away from the car.
Thanks John , and I can only agree with your points
Excellent explanation Steve.
Glad you liked it
Great job Steve. Thank you 👍
Very welcome
I had already replaced these hoses. The hose at the T piece (dead end) you see some cracks. Also on the pressure side of each hose clamp they are already swollen also there is grease around the filter and the pump. A new hose does not tear as quickly as these did in the gravel box. My experience is that the hoses will be hard instead of soft with the modern fuels.
Did you also change those worm drive hose clamps for better high pressure fuel injection type?
Indeed, and all that work was planned . I have seen hoses that were soft by the ethanol and others became brittle ... I guess i depends on the compound of the rubber
That was planned , but not done so far
Indeed, and all that work was planned . I have seen hoses that were soft by the ethanol and others became brittle ... I guess i depends on the compound of the rubber
Great video
Thanks
Back in the day, a built-in fire system could save the car or the driver. Your choice. Of course, you could spring for two systems. One for each.
Great point!
Most people don't realise just how quickly a petrol fire can take hold.
Indeed, that is so true
Is Novec one of those gases that can make you lose consciousness ?
I don't think it would be smart to use that type of extinguisher in a plumbed-in system ; pull the trigger, you go under, but if the gas only extinguish half the fire, you are toast :/
Well that might be true, but its been promoted and used in many race cars. This is what I got ... Hope never having to prove it. 1. Effective Fire Suppression:
Rapid Action: Novec 1230 extinguishes fires quickly by disrupting the chemical reaction of combustion. It's effective against Class A, B, and C fires.
No Residue: Unlike water-based systems, Novec 1230 leaves no residue, so there's no cleanup required after discharge. This makes it ideal for protecting sensitive equipment and electronics.
2. Safety:
Low Toxicity: Novec 1230 is safe for occupied spaces because it has low toxicity and a high safety margin. It doesn’t deplete oxygen levels, so people can safely evacuate without breathing difficulties.
Environmentally Friendly: Novec 1230 has a low Global Warming Potential (GWP) and is not ozone-depleting, making it a more environmentally friendly option compared to other chemical agents like Halon.
Is the next part about the type of extinguisher to nuy? I heard the ABC types in cars are more pain than solution as they corrode everything...
I might do so , yes
What is your opinion on Fire Safety Sticks? Myself and many kit car owners who cannot justify the cost of a plumbed in system are now switching to them as they seem a better option than a hand-held extinguisher
Do you have a tray under the Weber carburetors to stop fuel dribbling on to the exhaust?
Not on burnd car as that is an injection, but on my B and A I will have them
I was always surprised how fast you could get out of a FF when you had to. Even upside down. Ask me how I know.
I bet you know ,so tell us .... we like to hear it
@@D3Sshooter Long, long ago and far, far away... 1974. Bridgehampton racetrack on Long Island in New York, USA. It has the same sandy look and feel of Zandvoort. The track was old and bumpy. Today's F1 probably couldn't even run there. On the back of the course is a variable radius fast left-hand sweeper. Speculation was that a FF could go through in 4th. My car was a Caldwell D9 with race slicks. Similar to a Merlyn but with a stronger frame. (thank goodness).
On a practice/track day I decided to try 4th gear (~100 mph). I knew subconsciously that a Ford with power on would understeer and power off would oversteer, but I wasn't thinking about that. I went through the turn with part throttle and the tail snapped out. I almost caught it but went at the sand hill on the inside of the corner. I saw a lot of blurry tan. When everything stopped, I was on the top of the hill upside down. My first reaction was that I couldn't move. Then I grabbed the 6-point harness latch and dropped ~2 feet to the ground. I went to the hospital and had my entire spine and other stuff x-rayed. I had no physical damage. The car needed to be rejigged.
BTW: People wonder if your life flashes before your eyes when you are going to crash. I've talked to several people who crashed, and they pretty much say the same thing. The only thoughts they had were "This is going to hurt" or (mine) "Oh sh*t".
Sorry, this is almost as long as your video. lol
Part 3 missing
You are right, this should be part 3... i will change it ... TXS