I haven't finished watching this video yet, I paused it say this..this is how a referenced video should be like! Well done my friend!! You should be nominated for an Oscar! Thank you!
Just bought one today. Had no clue until I saw your demo. Prime example of How to instruct/demo. Wish more TH-camrs would Go into details like you have.
I picked up this at Lowes and didn't realise it had been opened. Not sure if unopened "boxes" are supposed to have instructions, but mine surely didn't and the Kreg TH-cam channel certainly didn't help. You, my friend, gave such comprehensive instructions that I was able to set this thing up in minutes. I can't wait to do my first cut with it tomorrow (and thanks to your advice, I'll start by cutting a piece of scrap wood to ensure the tool is accurate. Thank you so much for this video!
I just mounted my Milwaukee M18 Fuel circulation. saw to the sled. I had to make a slight modification to my saw base because the R.H. hold down screw interfered with a rib on the top R.H. side of the saw base. I simply filed a 30 degree bevel on the rib until the hold down assembly swung freely. Without doing this the saw wouldn't sit flush against the slide base. Now it works perfectly. Excellent review and video.
Great video. Pro tip: everytime you need to re-thread a screw into plastic (especially thread cutters) back thread it until the screw drops into the threads. Then you can tighten without worrying about accidentally cutting new threads.
I absolutely love my Kreg rip cut. Take the time to set it up and learn to use it and you will be amazed at the accuracy of the cuts you can make with this incredible tool ❤
This is an outstanding, and very thorough walk-through and review of the Krieg Rip Cut product. This helps me make an informed decision! Thank you so much for your hard work and diligence on this product!
Excellent. Thank you. This was an excellent review and the setup. I just bought the Rip Cut and used this tutorial for the setup and everything worked out 100%. Great job, it was most helpful!
I have to cut 1/2 inch off the wood, and I was nervous that I couldn't do it with the rip cut. Thank you for addressing this in your video. I will go practise now!
thanks for the review. Good job. No wasted conversation or extraneous talking is good as well. I think you have a future as a reviewer. Get sponsors now.
Thanks, your video was super helpful in setting mine up. One correction is to hold the plastic guide using the provided cutout hole. The circular saw will derail at the end of the cut if you hold it by the aluminum as you suggested.
Just bought this for a project; last one on the shelf, an opened package, I was skeptical. Got it home, no instructions. Downloaded instruction manual, but wasn't thrilled. Watched this video and bingo, set up the assembly in a few minutes and off and running. Agree that some parts are too thin plastic, but for $40, you get what you pay for, and today, $40 for a tool is no expensive. I will say that the 'curser' is hard to read (perhaps my old eyes are more of an issue here). Trial cuts went really well, happy with it. FYI: circular saw is a 7-1/4", Makita model 5007F; a right hand saw, and it fits fine.
Very informative video. Great suggestions for a future models as well. I’m glad you added that you were able to get down to a quarter inch even though it’s not suggested.
FANTASTIC review. Thorough, offers a great alternative to the instructions as far as set-up... and answers all the most predictable questions for unique situations (i.e. I specifically wanted to know if and how to safely make a sub-1 inch cut. Thanks so much.
There is no way for me to clamp my workpiece down without the clamps being in the way of the tools path. That alone renders this tool useless to me. What do I do now? I'm cutting 36inch long and 10 inch wide. 3/4 inch oak.
hey man, great job on this review. pros / cons nad you're very clear in speaking and made this an easy choice for me beginning my DIY stuff. thanks so much.
So helpful thank you. I bought this to cut plywood into shiplap but now my first job has to be trimming down a wood screen door so again thanks and wish me luck. 👍🏻
I appreciate your straight-forward and to the point review. I hate having to go through a whole lot of nonsense like on so many others. I couldn't agree more with your comments on the rip-cut. Thanks for making this video! I'm going to check out your other reviews.
Those are NOT just "potential" weak points... this thing is just too flimsy! Save your hard earned dollars, buy some aluminum plate and profiles, and make your own, much more strong and precise guide!
Great video just bought one having problem with it I have a Dewalt DCS 391 saw and when I go tighten the screws the back end rises of the saw and it doesn't sit flat it says my saw is compatible What can i do?
I've had the back end of the base plate droop away from the shoe a little on a few saw models I've used this with, but was still able to get good cut results with it. First check to make sure that gray insert in the front edge is flipped the right way if you have a sloped front shoe. Then back of a little bit on the set screw pressure and see if you can get it to still hold securely.
There’s no way to prevent it from leveraging the sled away from the saw base on my saw, regardless of which way you put the filler strip. As soon as the set screws even just contact the saw base, the sled immediately cants downward. I think you just have to accept that a bit of down pressure on the saw flattens the flimsy sled to the saw while you cut. I haven’t even tried mine yet and already I can see it’s poorly designed, even if it can make straight cuts.
You could not have done a better job on this video. Thanks!
5 ปีที่แล้ว +3
Thank you for the honest and objective review. My shop/garage it too small to break down a 4 x 8 sheet and I hate searching for someone at home depot or lowes who can do it for me. So at first glance I said to myself I want one. There are just too many compromises to an otherwise great tool. I'd gladly pay more for aluminum or steel version. Until Kreg comes up with one I'll just keep clamping my homemade straightedge to the full sheets in the driveway. On the bright side you just gained a new subscriber.
Can you set the saw to 45 degrees? Do not have a table saw and wanted to rip plywood strips to make cleats for a French Cleat system. Figures to make a 45 degree cut on the edge then move blade to 90 degrees to cut off the cleat then move back to 45 for the next cleat. figured the guide would make it straighter than a free hand cut. thanks for all your info.
Thank you so much for your review and tips! I was debating whether or not to buy one for some cabinets I’m planning to make and I don’t have room to purchase a table saw which I won’t use often. Clear explanations and great camera set up in the video. God bless you sir.
When reinstalling course screws you should twist them backwards until you feel the screw lines back up with the threads. Use this in any plastic or wood screws you need to reinstall.
I had trouble with bottom mount plastic bending away from saw bottom even with the wedge adapter pointing up so I put popsicle stick under the wedge now it sits nice and flat
Used this Kreg jig a couple years ago to turn 10 sheets of 3/4" plywood into custom shelving for a 12' x 15' closet we built onto the back of a customers home. That alone made this jig worth every penny spent. I don't like using table saws, just not practical to haul around with you. With the Kreg Circular saw guide, you don't need one. Lets you rip virtually any size you want off of a 4' x 8' sheet of whatever material.
@@randykerg9083 mine survived the moving truck from Texas to Florida and now it's thrown around in the back of the work van. Still works. I would usually agree with plastic being synonymous with cheap garbage but the Kreg stuff is pretty hefty.
Found a saw it does not fit, 60v Dewalt worm drive. The blade guard hangs and pushes the sled off the shoe. Also the miter adjustment on the saw makes it next to impossible to tighten down the second screw. Was able to modify sled by cutting away some of the plastic by blade guard but the hold down is questionable.
Great Video. I found an older model without the stop and slot in the guide for the purpose of ripping one 20-foot deck board. I think this will be after than using a table saw.
Greetings from the UK. Thanks for a useful and interesting review. Agree about the material for the sled and it would be good if there was a handle (even if just a knob like on the front of a plane), that clipped onto the rail above the guide.
Thank you! Used this to set up my Kreg Acu cut. Needed it to make accurate cuts in sheet goods. Between that product and a new Diablo blade, it works great. I was worried about trimming the 1/32nds part. I also have an older worm drive circular saw and attached fine
Make a grab handle that fits the rail at that location you suggested to grab the guide rail. A very good evaluation of this product. I bought the accu guide and now will get hold of the rip guide as well.
Finally someone with an honest review...I think the pocket hole jig and the RIP cut were pretty good ones even though some aspects of the jigs were not clearly thought out at all lol..buying an ACCU cut from them about ruined me of the brand entirely.
And obvious tip you can do rips greater than 2 feet. By first measuring anything over 2 foot marking it and ripping from the opposite side making your drop the rip. But great review I actually found my rip cut it was being thrown away because the sled broke. I contacted Craig and they sent me a slide for free great customer service. But because I pieced it together I needed information on proper set up so thank you!
I already own this. I'd like to perhaps purchase the circular saw track as well. Does the sled that you attach the saw to the same as the one sold with the Kreg circular saw track product? And if you already customized your saw to the sled on this Rip Cut product, then will you have to readjust it to work with the Circular Saw Track, or will it be the same when going back and forth between the two Kreg tools?
The sled has been compatible with both the Rip Cut and the AccuCut since Kreg introduced the AccuCut mid 2017. If you bought your Rip Cut before then, I don't think it will be compatible, but the AccuCut comes with a sled that will be compatible with both anyway. You'll need to set the sled up on the AccuCut first since it has the zero clearance strip that must be trimmed. The Rip Cut has an adjustable cursor, so you set that up second. Then you can use your saw mounted on the same base plate for both cut guides.
Great video, appreciate the detailed explanations and comments. One question, at around the 5:34 mark when you are connecting the rail to the edge guide, does your orientation for a left side (or right) agree with the instruction manual?
You can set it up on either side independent of your left/right saw blade configuration. You are correct, the Kreg instructions say to do it the other way so you can rip the maximum 24". But I find it more awkward to use that way with a blade left saw since I'm right handed. So I set mine up this way for normal use and if I need to make a rip cut near the max width, I can swap it.
@@DoresoomReviews Okay, good! I never thought much about right or left saws buying this Kreg tool and watching your video so thanks for the explanation as to why you set it up that way. I do need to make max width cuts so it worked out.
I haven't tried it myself with either. The instructions for the Accu-Cut say no. It's due to a regular circular saw not pivoting about where the blade meets the workpiece - the sacrificial strip would get cut in the wrong spot. Plus, I'm not sure if the base plate has clearance for a saw blade guard to bevel within it.
If you use the video's recommended trick @6:36 to line the saw blade up against the blue guide rail and then set the cursor to match the guide rail exactly, it will not take into account the width of the blade kerf and thus always cut your measurement short by the width of your blade kerf. If your kerf is 1/8, then move the cursor 1/8 in, etc. Maybe I'm not thinking about this right, so please correct if I'm wrong. I would recommend placing the cursor on the inside of the kerf. Either way, the video offers a good suggestion about how to make sure everything is calibrated with the 1.5" cutoff trial.
No, my method accounts for blade kerf as long as you're ripping your "keep" piece off between the blade and the guide. If you cut with the keep piece on the other side, you'll have to constantly adjust the width setting to maintain consistent width pass after pass. The only time you need to factor in blade kerf is when your keep piece is wider than 24". Then you do need to factor in kerf.
Been looking at this rip cut and the accu cut from kreg I also have this Milwaukee m12 5 1/4 saw as well as the new skil truhvl cordless saw and the dewalt FlexVolt d handle
@@DoresoomReviews oh interesting my skil is a worm drive and my flexvolt dealt is a worm drive style dang only saw I have that isn't worm drive or style is the m12 5 1/4
Had one of these, but wasnt a fan. Used it a few times on our projects sites, and it ended up at the back of a shelf on our trailer for a year or two. It finally rattled of one of the pieces and I just finally threw it away. Found that this was just more complicated and cumbersome than was necessary. Easier to use a simple fence guide....with one exception, if someone is cutting the same size rips over and over, then something like this might make sense
At about the 5:30 mark, you check for square, but there is no way to adjust squareness if it's off. The two plastic nubs on the blue plastic part prevent any movement of the aluminum bar. I actually ended up recreating the blue part on my 3D printer, without the registration 'nubs', and was able to square the tool. Out of the box, it was off by a full 1/8" across the two foot aluminum bar.
@@DoresoomReviews Ya, that was my first thought, but I wanted to keep the original piece intact. Worst part, I've embarrassingly been using the off-angle version of it for a couple of years, cussing and swearing my way through bad cut after bad cut, thinking it was my cheap-o Makita saw (that has hit the pavement more than a few times) causing the trouble. Turns out the saw has been fine all along...I only discovered the Kreg problem a few weeks ago.
Phenomenal 👌 amazing 👍 great video, tutorial, clarity, non condescending, attention to detail. You found all the flaws. Now you should design & manufacturer your own out of metal or my preference plexiglass. Teaching or engineering is your calling 👏
When cut is made, must edge of board be 90 degrees to the other edge. I see how jig cuts a straight line, but if edge of board is not 90 degrees, the new cut will parallel the outside edge. Am i doing something wrong. Thx Bruce
Agree on the weaknesses of the design. But if those screw holes give out, fill with epoxy in, and outside that portion of the plastic (around the outside of the hole on the underside) and re-drill the holes for more life. Since it's just the edge runner, you could also swap out a scrap of straight wood and just ensure it's bolted at a true right angle, and then you could countersink some nuts for the ability to remove and flip it all around.
Dear sir, ¿can one use this Kreg jig to rip [lengthwise] some 2x4's, removing ~1/2" from one side of said, please? Any/all comments welcomed. Thank you for making and posting this video.
Yes, it should work for that. I'd put the cut width at 3" and rip one side off. You may have to lay a second 2x4 down next to it to give you a stable cut surface.
What is your KregTool 'Rip Cut' jig's model #? I have a different model (perhaps an earlier version) that does not have three (3) features: 1. a hand slot on the straight-edge guide 2. capability to add a 'stop block' 3. no removable plate to accommodate the saw's base plate/shoe
So if the little red line on the front of the sled doesn't line perfectly up with your blade do you gave to measure with a tape and adjust it until its perfect? My saw is a lower end craftsman vorded saw and the plastic guard seems to be warped or something and it catcbes/rubs on the sled even though it seems to be centered...
The little red line is the cursor for the cut width that you use with the ruler on the aluminum rail - it's not necessarily a marker for where your blade is. So when you make your initial test cut, adjust the cursor to match the correct marking on the ruler corresponding to the width of that cutoff.
This tool is great value for money.Does allow for accurate cuts and is good for amateurs as well as professional users.Guess in the future the Fence will be made from a much more durable material.
I'd be hesitant to do so, at least with really narrow workpieces. You might end up with kickback if the cutoff rotates. Same principle as not using a crosscut sled and fence simultaneously on a table saw.
I bought this early last year and like it, but I do have some issues with it. 1 like you said seems cheap. 2 does flex some too. 3 not a good.cut at the very end, I draw a line at the end to continue.the cut to get a continuous straight line.
Great review. I have an older version of this with a shorter and narrower fence and no hand hold, no stop block or shoe insert. It also is not compatible with the Accu-Cut.
I have a ryobi skil saw and there is one dimple hole that one swivel screw fits into but none on the other side. Will it be ok to just screw it to the top of the saw Bracket
This is so helpful. I watched this before I got the Rip-Cut. Then, when I got it, I started practicing on a rough 4x8 to see how things were. I noticed I was about 1/8" off and wondered the best way to fix that, so I watched your video again. The answer was right at 1:08 with the stop-block. That's the key. I had it set up on the wrong side for my Ryobi lefty. Duh. Gonna change the stop-block to the other side. I got the left-sided saw because that's what a right-handed person needs to be able to easily see the cutting line. It's not necessary with the Kreg, but for that sense of security, a pencil line is always good to let you know you're on the money.
If the holes do get worn out in the plastic from being switched a trick I've learned is use a toothpick and some gel super glue and use the toothpick to smear the gel around the threads and it kinda fills em back in. Gives em a bit more life but the captive nut would have been 100% better.
I have one and the only problem I've had is the lock lever that locks the sled to the rail. It binds and won't lock down. I just a few days ago sprayed a little silicone on it it's a little better.
I need to cut my plywood into 6” by 48” planks, if I understand correctly you are saying that I would not be able to cut the 48” using this but I could cut the 6” width all the way down and then cut that in half using a miter saw to get my 48” length
Doresoom Tool Reviews good to know, I’ve got 7 cuts per sheet of plywood and 97sheets to do. Just wish that making 8 planks 6”wide I wouldn’t have to waste the last plank due to blade thickness, any tips?
This is really helpful, thanks. Can you tell us what you would recommend to cut a much smaller width slither? I need to do a 4mm x 1 meter long cut on a vertical panel that cannot be removed and put on a bench. The other complicating factor is that it is not a 'through' cut, it is a 10mm notch that we need to widen on a 22mm MDF thick panel.Happy to do it by hand but I don't know what tool would do the trick.
Thanks for the review! If the lumber is not straight to begin with, how would I go about getting a straight edge with this tool then? I'm thinking to use this tool to rip cut several 2x4s from like a 2x10.
If you want a tool that will give you a perfectly straight edge, then you may want to look at Kreg's Accu-Cut or Accu-Cut XL instead: amzn.to/3faWgan Be careful about trying to rip 2x4 boards out of a 2x10 though, I've often found there's a lot of built-up internal stress in dimensional lumber which can lead to it warping severely if you cut down the center.
I haven't finished watching this video yet, I paused it say this..this is how a referenced video should be like! Well done my friend!! You should be nominated for an Oscar! Thank you!
Thanks! Glad it's helpful.
Your review is very thorough, professional and trustworthy. Thank you
I really appreciate the thorough review! You showed everything I needed to know in such a short video.
Great review. Just picked one up at Goodwill today for $5. Can't wait to use it in my next project.
Just bought one today. Had no clue until I saw your demo. Prime example of How to instruct/demo. Wish more TH-camrs would Go into details like you have.
Glad I could help!
Nice review. I have had one for several years and, although I don't need it very often, it has provided excellent service each time I did use it.
I picked up this at Lowes and didn't realise it had been opened. Not sure if unopened "boxes" are supposed to have instructions, but mine surely didn't and the Kreg TH-cam channel certainly didn't help. You, my friend, gave such comprehensive instructions that I was able to set this thing up in minutes. I can't wait to do my first cut with it tomorrow (and thanks to your advice, I'll start by cutting a piece of scrap wood to ensure the tool is accurate. Thank you so much for this video!
I just mounted my Milwaukee M18 Fuel circulation. saw to the sled. I had to make a slight modification to my saw base because the R.H. hold down screw interfered with a rib on the top R.H. side of the saw base. I simply filed a 30 degree bevel on the rib until the hold down assembly swung freely. Without doing this the saw wouldn't sit flush against the slide base. Now it works perfectly. Excellent review and video.
Great video. Pro tip: everytime you need to re-thread a screw into plastic (especially thread cutters) back thread it until the screw drops into the threads. Then you can tighten without worrying about accidentally cutting new threads.
That's a great tip, thanks!
Great minds think alike...
Thanks!
Great video... hope Kreg watched this and took a few notes on upgrading the product. Yours suggestions are spot on!
I absolutely love my Kreg rip cut. Take the time to set it up and learn to use it and you will be amazed at the accuracy of the cuts you can make with this incredible tool ❤
by far, dude has the best review, with sound advice, thats currently out there on this guide.
This is an outstanding, and very thorough walk-through and review of the Krieg Rip Cut product. This helps me make an informed decision! Thank you so much for your hard work and diligence on this product!
You were born with natural teaching elements
Thank you!
Excellent. Thank you. This was an excellent review and the setup. I just bought the Rip Cut and used this tutorial for the setup and everything worked out 100%. Great job, it was most helpful!
I have to cut 1/2 inch off the wood, and I was nervous that I couldn't do it with the rip cut. Thank you for addressing this in your video. I will go practise now!
thanks for the review. Good job. No wasted conversation or extraneous talking is good as well. I think you have a future as a reviewer. Get sponsors now.
Thanks!
Great Review. Just bought this and came to this channel for directions on how to use it.
Well spoken, informative and complete thoughts. Thank you for your help. 👍🤠
Thanks, your video was super helpful in setting mine up. One correction is to hold the plastic guide using the provided cutout hole. The circular saw will derail at the end of the cut if you hold it by the aluminum as you suggested.
Fabulous review. I’ve been looking at this rig and wondered how it would work. You explained things extremely well.
Glad I could help!
Just bought this for a project; last one on the shelf, an opened package, I was skeptical. Got it home, no instructions. Downloaded instruction manual, but wasn't thrilled. Watched this video and bingo, set up the assembly in a few minutes and off and running. Agree that some parts are too thin plastic, but for $40, you get what you pay for, and today, $40 for a tool is no expensive. I will say that the 'curser' is hard to read (perhaps my old eyes are more of an issue here). Trial cuts went really well, happy with it. FYI: circular saw is a 7-1/4", Makita model 5007F; a right hand saw, and it fits fine.
Very informative video. Great suggestions for a future models as well. I’m glad you added that you were able to get down to a quarter inch even though it’s not suggested.
FANTASTIC review. Thorough, offers a great alternative to the instructions as far as set-up... and answers all the most predictable questions for unique situations (i.e. I specifically wanted to know if and how to safely make a sub-1 inch cut. Thanks so much.
Glad I could help!
There is no way for me to clamp my workpiece down without the clamps being in the way of the tools path. That alone renders this tool useless to me. What do I do now? I'm cutting 36inch long and 10 inch wide. 3/4 inch oak.
Double sided tape, low temp hot glue, or a router pad would all work.
hey man, great job on this review. pros / cons nad you're very clear in speaking and made this an easy choice for me beginning my DIY stuff. thanks so much.
So helpful thank you. I bought this to cut plywood into shiplap but now my first job has to be trimming down a wood screen door so again thanks and wish me luck. 👍🏻
Thank you! I was wondering why I could not get the blade to cut less than 5" wide.
I appreciate your straight-forward and to the point review. I hate having to go through a whole lot of nonsense like on so many others. I couldn't agree more with your comments on the rip-cut. Thanks for making this video! I'm going to check out your other reviews.
Glad I could help!
Agree… no stupid music.
Well articulated review. Good highlighting of potential weak points. Thanks.
Those are NOT just "potential" weak points... this thing is just too flimsy!
Save your hard earned dollars, buy some aluminum plate and profiles, and make your own, much more strong and precise guide!
Great video
just bought one having problem with it I have a Dewalt DCS 391 saw and when I go tighten the screws the back end rises of the saw and it doesn't sit flat it says my saw is compatible
What can i do?
I've had the back end of the base plate droop away from the shoe a little on a few saw models I've used this with, but was still able to get good cut results with it. First check to make sure that gray insert in the front edge is flipped the right way if you have a sloped front shoe. Then back of a little bit on the set screw pressure and see if you can get it to still hold securely.
There’s no way to prevent it from leveraging the sled away from the saw base on my saw, regardless of which way you put the filler strip. As soon as the set screws even just contact the saw base, the sled immediately cants downward. I think you just have to accept that a bit of down pressure on the saw flattens the flimsy sled to the saw while you cut. I haven’t even tried mine yet and already I can see it’s poorly designed, even if it can make straight cuts.
You could not have done a better job on this video. Thanks!
Thank you for the honest and objective review. My shop/garage it too small to break down a 4 x 8 sheet and I hate searching for someone at home depot or lowes who can do it for me. So at first glance I said to myself I want one. There are just too many compromises to an otherwise great tool. I'd gladly pay more for aluminum or steel version. Until Kreg comes up with one I'll just keep clamping my homemade straightedge to the full sheets in the driveway. On the bright side you just gained a new subscriber.
Dude had 2 opinions in the whole video and all of us hated them. Great video!!
If everyone hated this video, it wouldn't have 1M views. Thanks for leaving a comment though, it boosts interaction for the TH-cam algorithm!
Can you set the saw to 45 degrees? Do not have a table saw and wanted to rip plywood strips to make cleats for a French Cleat system. Figures to make a 45 degree cut on the edge then move blade to 90 degrees to cut off the cleat then move back to 45 for the next cleat. figured the guide would make it straighter than a free hand cut. thanks for all your info.
Depends on the saw, but probably not. Mine can make it to 30 degrees bevel before the blade crashes into the base plate.
Thank you so much for your review and tips! I was debating whether or not to buy one for some cabinets I’m planning to make and I don’t have room to purchase a table saw which I won’t use often. Clear explanations and great camera set up in the video. God bless you sir.
When reinstalling course screws you should twist them backwards until you feel the screw lines back up with the threads. Use this in any plastic or wood screws you need to reinstall.
Excellent video. You explain and illustrate things very clearly!
thanks for a really straight forward, and clear explanation on this tool. it is appreciated
I had trouble with bottom mount plastic bending away from saw bottom even with the wedge adapter pointing up so I put popsicle stick under the wedge now it sits nice and flat
Used this Kreg jig a couple years ago to turn 10 sheets of 3/4" plywood into custom shelving for a 12' x 15' closet we built onto the back of a customers home. That alone made this jig worth every penny spent. I don't like using table saws, just not practical to haul around with you. With the Kreg Circular saw guide, you don't need one. Lets you rip virtually any size you want off of a 4' x 8' sheet of whatever material.
Another word it cheap plastic
Whatever happened to QUALITY?
But what about having a factory edge for it to work ? Dont you need a table saw for that
@@ticesine6589 the plywood he bought will have had a straight edge. It doesn't come crooked.
U need to see a track saw
@@randykerg9083 mine survived the moving truck from Texas to Florida and now it's thrown around in the back of the work van. Still works. I would usually agree with plastic being synonymous with cheap garbage but the Kreg stuff is pretty hefty.
Good instructional review good job on both the rip fence and also the accu cut, keep it up
Thanks for the video. Five hundred percent better than the manufacturer’s manual.
Thank you for this! It made it much easier for me to get my set up right!
Found a saw it does not fit, 60v Dewalt worm drive. The blade guard hangs and pushes the sled off the shoe. Also the miter adjustment on the saw makes it next to impossible to tighten down the second screw. Was able to modify sled by cutting away some of the plastic by blade guard but the hold down is questionable.
Thanks for the info! I've heard a lot of worm drive style saws don't fit this base.
I just got mines today, havent used it but already love it
Great Video. I found an older model without the stop and slot in the guide for the purpose of ripping one 20-foot deck board. I think this will be after than using a table saw.
Why does the lock not lock anymore after a few cuts? I keep snapping it off
Greetings from the UK. Thanks for a useful and interesting review. Agree about the material for the sled and it would be good if there was a handle (even if just a knob like on the front of a plane), that clipped onto the rail above the guide.
Thank you! Used this to set up my Kreg Acu cut. Needed it to make accurate cuts in sheet goods. Between that product and a new Diablo blade, it works great. I was worried about trimming the 1/32nds part. I also have an older worm drive circular saw and attached fine
Your video was great! Staight to the point and very helpful. Thank you.
Make a grab handle that fits the rail at that location you suggested to grab the guide rail. A very good evaluation of this product. I bought the accu guide and now will get hold of the rip guide as well.
Finally someone with an honest review...I think the pocket hole jig and the RIP cut were pretty good ones even though some aspects of the jigs were not clearly thought out at all lol..buying an ACCU cut from them about ruined me of the brand entirely.
And obvious tip you can do rips greater than 2 feet. By first measuring anything over 2 foot marking it and ripping from the opposite side making your drop the rip. But great review I actually found my rip cut it was being thrown away because the sled broke. I contacted Craig and they sent me a slide for free great customer service. But because I pieced it together I needed information on proper set up so thank you!
Good point about ripping wider than 24" - just make sure you account for the blade kerf thickness!
@@DoresoomReviews Thank you and I always do. I actually assumed that’s why they made it 2’ to be portable and to accommodate 4 ‘x 8’ sheets.
I've seen so many comments about these types of guides only being able to cut 24", how do these people even get dressed in the morning,?
I already own this. I'd like to perhaps purchase the circular saw track as well. Does the sled that you attach the saw to the same as the one sold with the Kreg circular saw track product? And if you already customized your saw to the sled on this Rip Cut product, then will you have to readjust it to work with the Circular Saw Track, or will it be the same when going back and forth between the two Kreg tools?
The sled has been compatible with both the Rip Cut and the AccuCut since Kreg introduced the AccuCut mid 2017. If you bought your Rip Cut before then, I don't think it will be compatible, but the AccuCut comes with a sled that will be compatible with both anyway.
You'll need to set the sled up on the AccuCut first since it has the zero clearance strip that must be trimmed. The Rip Cut has an adjustable cursor, so you set that up second. Then you can use your saw mounted on the same base plate for both cut guides.
@@DoresoomReviews Ok, good to know. Thanks!
So what if the board is not cut straight and you don't have a reference? Can you still use the edge of the board for straight cuts?
If the edge you're referencing off of isn't straight, then you'll get an equally crooked board of constant width when you use this guide.
Great job explaining 😊ty just bought one today
Great review, I just purchased one today at Home Depot for $37.00
Great video, appreciate the detailed explanations and comments. One question, at around the 5:34 mark when you are connecting the rail to the edge guide, does your orientation for a left side (or right) agree with the instruction manual?
You can set it up on either side independent of your left/right saw blade configuration. You are correct, the Kreg instructions say to do it the other way so you can rip the maximum 24". But I find it more awkward to use that way with a blade left saw since I'm right handed. So I set mine up this way for normal use and if I need to make a rip cut near the max width, I can swap it.
@@DoresoomReviews Okay, good! I never thought much about right or left saws buying this Kreg tool and watching your video so thanks for the explanation as to why you set it up that way. I do need to make max width cuts so it worked out.
Excellent thorough review. Thank you!
They should make a pro model, all aluminum with the improvements you mentioned.
I see a gen 2 coming with these suggestions
Pro? I think that should be standard
@Chop Wood kickstarter it
Still didn’t do it did they?
@@scrappy93 You nail it
Can you make a bevel cut using the rip cut or accu- cut ?
I haven't tried it myself with either. The instructions for the Accu-Cut say no. It's due to a regular circular saw not pivoting about where the blade meets the workpiece - the sacrificial strip would get cut in the wrong spot. Plus, I'm not sure if the base plate has clearance for a saw blade guard to bevel within it.
If you use the video's recommended trick @6:36 to line the saw blade up against the blue guide rail and then set the cursor to match the guide rail exactly, it will not take into account the width of the blade kerf and thus always cut your measurement short by the width of your blade kerf. If your kerf is 1/8, then move the cursor 1/8 in, etc. Maybe I'm not thinking about this right, so please correct if I'm wrong. I would recommend placing the cursor on the inside of the kerf. Either way, the video offers a good suggestion about how to make sure everything is calibrated with the 1.5" cutoff trial.
No, my method accounts for blade kerf as long as you're ripping your "keep" piece off between the blade and the guide. If you cut with the keep piece on the other side, you'll have to constantly adjust the width setting to maintain consistent width pass after pass.
The only time you need to factor in blade kerf is when your keep piece is wider than 24". Then you do need to factor in kerf.
Been looking at this rip cut and the accu cut from kreg I also have this Milwaukee m12 5 1/4 saw as well as the new skil truhvl cordless saw and the dewalt FlexVolt d handle
Just a heads up, I've heard this doesn't work with worm drive saws, but don't have one to check for myself.
@@DoresoomReviews oh interesting my skil is a worm drive and my flexvolt dealt is a worm drive style dang only saw I have that isn't worm drive or style is the m12 5 1/4
Had one of these, but wasnt a fan. Used it a few times on our projects sites, and it ended up at the back of a shelf on our trailer for a year or two. It finally rattled of one of the pieces and I just finally threw it away. Found that this was just more complicated and cumbersome than was necessary. Easier to use a simple fence guide....with one exception, if someone is cutting the same size rips over and over, then something like this might make sense
Yeah, I usually only use mine for repeated width rips. That's where it really shines.
At about the 5:30 mark, you check for square, but there is no way to adjust squareness if it's off. The two plastic nubs on the blue plastic part prevent any movement of the aluminum bar.
I actually ended up recreating the blue part on my 3D printer, without the registration 'nubs', and was able to square the tool. Out of the box, it was off by a full 1/8" across the two foot aluminum bar.
You could shave down the "nubs" or drill them out and epoxy a pin back in place. That's pretty bad that yours was 1/8" off though!
@@DoresoomReviews Ya, that was my first thought, but I wanted to keep the original piece intact.
Worst part, I've embarrassingly been using the off-angle version of it for a couple of years, cussing and swearing my way through bad cut after bad cut, thinking it was my cheap-o Makita saw (that has hit the pavement more than a few times) causing the trouble. Turns out the saw has been fine all along...I only discovered the Kreg problem a few weeks ago.
Excelente explicación, probó en alguna de 9-1/4? Saludos desde Uruguay 🇺🇾
I haven't tried it with a 9-1/4" blade saw, but I doubt it would fit. I think Kreg designed it for 7-1/4" max.
@@DoresoomReviews ok thank you very much!!
Phenomenal 👌 amazing 👍 great video, tutorial, clarity, non condescending, attention to detail.
You found all the flaws. Now you
should design & manufacturer
your own out of metal or my preference plexiglass. Teaching or
engineering is your calling 👏
Wow, thank you!
When cut is made, must edge of board be 90 degrees to the other edge. I see how jig cuts a straight line, but if edge of board is not 90 degrees, the new cut will parallel the outside edge. Am i doing something wrong. Thx Bruce
A straight edge parallel to your desired cut line is the only requirement.
Agree on the weaknesses of the design. But if those screw holes give out, fill with epoxy in, and outside that portion of the plastic (around the outside of the hole on the underside) and re-drill the holes for more life. Since it's just the edge runner, you could also swap out a scrap of straight wood and just ensure it's bolted at a true right angle, and then you could countersink some nuts for the ability to remove and flip it all around.
great review, I
totally agree with you regarding the material choise of the jig.
Dear sir, ¿can one use this Kreg jig to rip [lengthwise] some 2x4's, removing ~1/2" from one side of said, please? Any/all comments welcomed. Thank you for making and posting this video.
Yes, it should work for that. I'd put the cut width at 3" and rip one side off. You may have to lay a second 2x4 down next to it to give you a stable cut surface.
@@DoresoomReviews Thank you so much for the kindness of a reply. I'm glad it can work for said. God[Bible] Bless you much.
Really helped me setting the Kreg up quickly, many Thanks :D
This is the best vid Ive seen on set up.
What is your KregTool 'Rip Cut' jig's model #?
I have a different model (perhaps an earlier version) that does not have three (3) features:
1. a hand slot on the straight-edge guide
2. capability to add a 'stop block'
3. no removable plate to accommodate the saw's base plate/shoe
My question is will it fit a Dewalt dcs571 saw which is a smaller 4 1/2 inch circular saw.
Thanks man! Gunna give it a go tomorrow with my ridgid
So if the little red line on the front of the sled doesn't line perfectly up with your blade do you gave to measure with a tape and adjust it until its perfect?
My saw is a lower end craftsman vorded saw and the plastic guard seems to be warped or something and it catcbes/rubs on the sled even though it seems to be centered...
The little red line is the cursor for the cut width that you use with the ruler on the aluminum rail - it's not necessarily a marker for where your blade is. So when you make your initial test cut, adjust the cursor to match the correct marking on the ruler corresponding to the width of that cutoff.
This tool is great value for money.Does allow for accurate cuts and is good for amateurs as well as professional users.Guess in the future the Fence will be made from a much more durable material.
I agree, the fence is the moat needed upgrade, followed by the sled. A glass filled nylon would be a big improvement.
Can you set the circular saw to 45 degree cuts tilting the blade? For 45 degree edges for making miter/bevel?
Depends on the saw, but probably not. Mine can make it to 30 degrees bevel before the blade crashes into the base plate.
I haven’t try that looks very good idea, but I hope Kreg makes it more HEAVYDUTY, in a future design, thanks for your video
Can you use this for cross cutting? seems like I could clamp the rail down use it as a reference for repeated crosscuts?
I'd be hesitant to do so, at least with really narrow workpieces. You might end up with kickback if the cutoff rotates. Same principle as not using a crosscut sled and fence simultaneously on a table saw.
I bought this early last year and like it, but I do have some issues with it. 1 like you said seems cheap. 2 does flex some too. 3 not a good.cut at the very end, I draw a line at the end to continue.the cut to get a continuous straight line.
Great review. I have an older version of this with a shorter and narrower fence and no hand hold, no stop block or shoe insert. It also is not compatible with the Accu-Cut.
Interesting - I knew they upgraded the sled to be compatible with the Accu-Cut, but didn't know about the other changes.
@@DoresoomReviews
Pretty much looks like this
images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71mzj0ZTg6L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
I have a ryobi skil saw and there is one dimple hole that one swivel screw fits into but none on the other side. Will it be ok to just screw it to the top of the saw Bracket
Yes, it's meant to just screw on top of the saw baseplate. None of my saws have a dimple.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you so much. I was confused about it 🤦🏻♀️
Can you bevel the cut 45 degrees if the saw is capable of that or is this guide only for straight 90 degree cuts?
Depends on the saw, but probably not. Mine can make it to 30 degrees bevel before the blade crashes into the base plate.
This is so helpful. I watched this before I got the Rip-Cut. Then, when I got it, I started practicing on a rough 4x8 to see how things were. I noticed I was about 1/8" off and wondered the best way to fix that, so I watched your video again. The answer was right at 1:08 with the stop-block. That's the key. I had it set up on the wrong side for my Ryobi lefty. Duh. Gonna change the stop-block to the other side. I got the left-sided saw because that's what a right-handed person needs to be able to easily see the cutting line. It's not necessary with the Kreg, but for that sense of security, a pencil line is always good to let you know you're on the money.
Very good presentation; very thorough and detailed.
What Miluakee model do you have? The edge of the base plate on mine seems too thick to fit under the clamp.
That's the M12 FUEL 5-3/8" saw in the video.
Bought one today. Taking it back tomorrow
What was wrong with it?
Amazing job explaining this!
If the holes do get worn out in the plastic from being switched a trick I've learned is use a toothpick and some gel super glue and use the toothpick to smear the gel around the threads and it kinda fills em back in. Gives em a bit more life but the captive nut would have been 100% better.
I have one and the only problem I've had is the lock lever that locks the sled to the rail. It binds and won't lock down. I just a few days ago sprayed a little silicone on it it's a little better.
Thank you for such detailed instructions
I need to cut my plywood into 6” by 48” planks, if I understand correctly you are saying that I would not be able to cut the 48” using this but I could cut the 6” width all the way down and then cut that in half using a miter saw to get my 48” length
Yep, that's how I'd do it. It's great for repeated width rip cuts.
Doresoom Tool Reviews good to know, I’ve got 7 cuts per sheet of plywood and 97sheets to do.
Just wish that making 8 planks 6”wide I wouldn’t have to waste the last plank due to blade thickness, any tips?
Never seen this before great video man! Appreciate the detail in the explanation!
This is really helpful, thanks. Can you tell us what you would recommend to cut a much smaller width slither? I need to do a 4mm x 1 meter long cut on a vertical panel that cannot be removed and put on a bench. The other complicating factor is that it is not a 'through' cut, it is a 10mm notch that we need to widen on a 22mm MDF thick panel.Happy to do it by hand but I don't know what tool would do the trick.
If I'm envisioning it correctly, that sounds like a job for a router, not a saw.
@@DoresoomReviews I think you have understood perfectly. You also guess that it is not me doing the work but my handyman. Many thanks
This Kreg rip guide will fit to both left and right handed circular saw which is excellent. I'm left handed that's why.
Stumbled on your video by accident. Rocking good review and information! Like and subscribed 👍
I could not get it to fit properly on Skil Mag77. Would not clamp properly on the front shoe in any available position.
Thanks for the review! If the lumber is not straight to begin with, how would I go about getting a straight edge with this tool then? I'm thinking to use this tool to rip cut several 2x4s from like a 2x10.
If you want a tool that will give you a perfectly straight edge, then you may want to look at Kreg's Accu-Cut or Accu-Cut XL instead: amzn.to/3faWgan
Be careful about trying to rip 2x4 boards out of a 2x10 though, I've often found there's a lot of built-up internal stress in dimensional lumber which can lead to it warping severely if you cut down the center.
@@DoresoomReviews thank you. Sounds like I really need a table saw for this purpose - I want to rip the rounded corners off of 2x4s