What an excellent video; I have a 67 Fastback and ran both of my 1/0 copper cables from the battery along the right side door channel until I got to the "A" pillar. I didn't pass the cables through the pillar, but instead I moved inward and passed through the firewall/toe-board at a location that was in-line with the right side, (passenger), frame rail. I used a small hole-saw to cut holes in the toe-board and installed rubber grommets to protect the cables from chafing; I thought that the cables would be at a safe distance from the heat emitted by the right side exhaust header if I allowed them to run on top of the rail where they would be about 5 inches away; I was WRONG. It may have been alright if I had kept the original exhaust manifolds, but I was using Hooker long tubes and their radiated heat, I found, is immense. Being safely suspicious, I kept an eye on the cables after installation and after about an hour of driving/tuning, I then shut things down and let it cool off. I checked the cables and discovered that there was an ever so slight, "roughness" to one of the cable's insulation. As protection, I decided to slip some of that silver colored, cloth like heat shield sleeve over the cables; the stuff that's actually meant to protect hoses. This works, but I still don't like subjecting the cables to the kind of heat that's being experienced; eventually that heat sleeve is going to deteriorate and I just can't drive the car thinking that I have a potential problem that could surface at the most inopportune moment. Splicing in a section of cable is a no-no for me as a permanent fix if the insulation gets burned, so I'm going to re-route the cables slightly outward, into the right inner fender-well and have the cables pass through over the suspension, to a point near the location of the factory starter solenoid. I doubt that there's any danger of damage from something being thrown around in the fender well. Thanks for sharing your experiences and plans for your project Mustang; you're very thorough and complete in your dialog; I've added you to my subscription list. I'd like to add something that I don't believe was mentioned. It's important to use the same size ground cable or negative cable as what your positive feed cable size may be. I've seen where people will be concerned with the size of their positive cable, but fail to realize that what goes in must have an equal route out. Thanks again for the excellent video, I look forward to what you have in addition.
Great video. I have had my battery trunk mounted for over 40 years. Back i the late 70,s when I moved the battery to the trunk battery boxes were rare so mine is just bolted to the floor over the frame on a Mopar trunk mount battery plate. The positive cable runs through the inside of the car and through a grommet in the firewall to the engine bay. I have never had a problem with this setup. I will look into obtaining a battery box and also using high current thru panel battery terminal connector in place of running the cable directly through the firewall with a grommet. This should add a bit more safety to the car. Thanks for the great video.
Great video! So, if I understand your install correctly, the 1/0 cables that you ran to the battery are always hot, is that correct? Also, where did you source the 4 post connects and adhesive lined shrink tubing?
When I first installed them they were always hot, like standard battery wires, but currently I have a breaker/shutoff on the battery box in case of grounding or when I want to disconnect power without undoing a terminal clamp. The adhesive tubing is something I have had a while, but you can get it from electric supply places or even just on Amazon. Just look for some decently thick material that shrinks to the ratio you need. I believe the post connects and most of the other items were off Amazon. I bought them in a hurry to finish the project before the autocross event. I have upgraded/replaced a few items in preparation for road tripping the car 2000+ miles, and I'll get a video up of that whole ordeal soon ;)
What a great video. I'm planning on doing a battery relocation on my 67 coupe and am glad I stumbled upon your channel and this video. Quick questions, did you go back to make any changes/improvements? Did you change the cushion clamps to something else? Did you ever add a kill switch to it? I'm torn between putting one in the trunk or near the driver seat. I'll be ordering my parts soon and will be using this video as a guide. Thanks for such an informative video.
I went back and added a 500amp relay as a shut off. Basically I just looped the positive side of the relay to the battery side and used a switch to ground the other. That way the battery is completely disconnected. The only thing it doesn't do automatically is kill the car if it's running, as the alternator could in theory keep it running, so I also use it as a trigger to the PMU to turn off the ignition/EFI and kill the engine from that side. I will do a video on it for you in the near future!
Great timing, doing mine right now. I’m using the same 4post connectors. Did you run new EFI power Harness wires back direct to the battery like you mentioned? I assume your alternator stayed to the factory starter solenoid?
I ran the EFI directly to the breakout blocks for power and ground to try it out and I haven't actually had any issues so far. The alternator is currently going to the breakout panel directly rather than starter post to take some of the strain off and seems to work well.
Yes. Right now I have the alternator at one end of the block and the EFI attached in the middle with the battery on the other side. So far it actually is behaving quite well. If I had encountered any issues, I was going to run a wire all the way to the battery directly.
I like the video, but I’m not running EFI I have a basic 302 carbureted I put the battery in the trunk my question is do I need to run both negative and positive wires to the front or only the red wire ? and where do I connect the red wire too, alternator or solenoid ?
You will have to run between both the alternator and solenoid. The alternator needs to output back to the battery the entire time the engine is running, where as the starter solenoid will only be closed during cranking. I'm general, you should run good grounds to the front, as there are a lot of things to add resistance and cause problems just grounding through a rusty body that has isolators and seam sealer scattered throughout.
What type of battery and battery bracket was it that you removed? Something that slim may keep me from having to relocate the battery to the trunk. Thanks!
I believe it was an Odyssey PC680 with a matching bracket. I pulled it from my other project to test. Ultimately I just wanted more cranking amps for when I'm parked in cold weather.
Useless video. "I need to figure out the best place to put the wire. I finally found the perfect spot. I'm not going to show it though. Good luck everyone else. I dont know why I made this video"
I have seen them all over, but lately I have been buying them from Amazon. They are always in stock there and multiple stud sizes are available for different projects. They have single or multiple post options. Just search "distribution block" or "junction block" depending. The specific brand of the last I have bought is Fastronix. They seem a bit pricey for what they are, but they have not caused me any problems and come with good quality plastic insulation parts that hold up.
What an excellent video; I have a 67 Fastback and ran both of my 1/0 copper cables from the battery along the right side door channel until I got to the "A" pillar. I didn't pass the cables through the pillar, but instead I moved inward and passed through the firewall/toe-board at a location that was in-line with the right side, (passenger), frame rail. I used a small hole-saw to cut holes in the toe-board and installed rubber grommets to protect the cables from chafing; I thought that the cables would be at a safe distance from the heat emitted by the right side exhaust header if I allowed them to run on top of the rail where they would be about 5 inches away; I was WRONG. It may have been alright if I had kept the original exhaust manifolds, but I was using Hooker long tubes and their radiated heat, I found, is immense.
Being safely suspicious, I kept an eye on the cables after installation and after about an hour of driving/tuning, I then shut things down and let it cool off. I checked the cables and discovered that there was an ever so slight, "roughness" to one of the cable's insulation. As protection, I decided to slip some of that silver colored, cloth like heat shield sleeve over the cables; the stuff that's actually meant to protect hoses. This works, but I still don't like subjecting the cables to the kind of heat that's being experienced; eventually that heat sleeve is going to deteriorate and I just can't drive the car thinking that I have a potential problem that could surface at the most inopportune moment. Splicing in a section of cable is a no-no for me as a permanent fix if the insulation gets burned, so I'm going to re-route the cables slightly outward, into the right inner fender-well and have the cables pass through over the suspension, to a point near the location of the factory starter solenoid. I doubt that there's any danger of damage from something being thrown around in the fender well.
Thanks for sharing your experiences and plans for your project Mustang; you're very thorough and complete in your dialog; I've added you to my subscription list. I'd like to add something that I don't believe was mentioned. It's important to use the same size ground cable or negative cable as what your positive feed cable size may be. I've seen where people will be concerned with the size of their positive cable, but fail to realize that what goes in must have an equal route out. Thanks again for the excellent video, I look forward to what you have in addition.
Great video. I have had my battery trunk mounted for over 40 years. Back i the late 70,s when I moved the battery to the trunk battery boxes were rare so mine is just bolted to the floor over the frame on a Mopar trunk mount battery plate. The positive cable runs through the inside of the car and through a grommet in the firewall to the engine bay. I have never had a problem with this setup. I will look into obtaining a battery box and also using high current thru panel battery terminal connector in place of running the cable directly through the firewall with a grommet. This should add a bit more safety to the car. Thanks for the great video.
Great video! So, if I understand your install correctly, the 1/0 cables that you ran to the battery are always hot, is that correct? Also, where did you source the 4 post connects and adhesive lined shrink tubing?
When I first installed them they were always hot, like standard battery wires, but currently I have a breaker/shutoff on the battery box in case of grounding or when I want to disconnect power without undoing a terminal clamp. The adhesive tubing is something I have had a while, but you can get it from electric supply places or even just on Amazon. Just look for some decently thick material that shrinks to the ratio you need. I believe the post connects and most of the other items were off Amazon. I bought them in a hurry to finish the project before the autocross event.
I have upgraded/replaced a few items in preparation for road tripping the car 2000+ miles, and I'll get a video up of that whole ordeal soon ;)
What a great video. I'm planning on doing a battery relocation on my 67 coupe and am glad I stumbled upon your channel and this video.
Quick questions, did you go back to make any changes/improvements? Did you change the cushion clamps to something else? Did you ever add a kill switch to it? I'm torn between putting one in the trunk or near the driver seat.
I'll be ordering my parts soon and will be using this video as a guide. Thanks for such an informative video.
I went back and added a 500amp relay as a shut off. Basically I just looped the positive side of the relay to the battery side and used a switch to ground the other. That way the battery is completely disconnected. The only thing it doesn't do automatically is kill the car if it's running, as the alternator could in theory keep it running, so I also use it as a trigger to the PMU to turn off the ignition/EFI and kill the engine from that side.
I will do a video on it for you in the near future!
@@AmbiVe I look forward to seeing that. Thanks for the reply.
What would I use for wording , say on amazon? Just putting in break out panels , brings back wrong results. Thanks for your time and help.
Try searching Fastronix Distribution Block. That is the new title I believe.
Great timing, doing mine right now.
I’m using the same 4post connectors.
Did you run new EFI power Harness wires back direct to the battery like you mentioned?
I assume your alternator stayed to the factory starter solenoid?
I ran the EFI directly to the breakout blocks for power and ground to try it out and I haven't actually had any issues so far. The alternator is currently going to the breakout panel directly rather than starter post to take some of the strain off and seems to work well.
So they Alternator and Efi computer basically hooked to the same place on the 4 post blocks? Am I reading that correct?
Yes. Right now I have the alternator at one end of the block and the EFI attached in the middle with the battery on the other side. So far it actually is behaving quite well. If I had encountered any issues, I was going to run a wire all the way to the battery directly.
Hey, nice video. Where can I get those break out panels?
I have updated the video description with info. Thanks for the question!
I like the video, but I’m not running EFI I have a basic 302 carbureted I put the battery in the trunk my question is do I need to run both negative and positive wires to the front or only the red wire ? and where do I connect the red wire too, alternator or solenoid ?
You will have to run between both the alternator and solenoid. The alternator needs to output back to the battery the entire time the engine is running, where as the starter solenoid will only be closed during cranking.
I'm general, you should run good grounds to the front, as there are a lot of things to add resistance and cause problems just grounding through a rusty body that has isolators and seam sealer scattered throughout.
What type of battery and battery bracket was it that you removed? Something that slim may keep me from having to relocate the battery to the trunk. Thanks!
I believe it was an Odyssey PC680 with a matching bracket. I pulled it from my other project to test. Ultimately I just wanted more cranking amps for when I'm parked in cold weather.
Useless video. "I need to figure out the best place to put the wire. I finally found the perfect spot. I'm not going to show it though. Good luck everyone else. I dont know why I made this video"
Where did you buy the break out panels
I have seen them all over, but lately I have been buying them from Amazon. They are always in stock there and multiple stud sizes are available for different projects. They have single or multiple post options. Just search "distribution block" or "junction block" depending.
The specific brand of the last I have bought is Fastronix. They seem a bit pricey for what they are, but they have not caused me any problems and come with good quality plastic insulation parts that hold up.