Well done Mr. Bill! I wish I put a belly carve on mine when I did my first build something to ponder while you are away is that lower carve where the side of your hand fits. A straight line curve is pretty comfortable but if you cup that carve with a scraper that meaty part of the side of your hand lays in there like it is getting a gentle hug. Try it out on a scrap of cut off from the body to feel that little bit of difference it makes. BTW.. I put the sidewinders in my Mockingbird yesterday and di the set up again on the FRX after tearing it all down for a good cleaning. I managed to pull the bridge ground out while pulling too hard on the wire while stripping the end.. After that was done I test played it and the inner flat pole bobbins are the active part when I do the split on the two way. Will swapping the black position and the red n white reverse that so the outer bobbins with the screws become active? Or do I need to do a different combination with the red white and black to rearrange that configuration?
The pickups are wired with the standard Seymour Duncan wiring, which does make the slug coil the hot coil when split. if you want the screw coil to be the hot coil, then run the green wire to hot and the black wire to ground. However, you may notice it sounds a bit thinner that way. Also you may run in to an issue with the pickups being out of phase that way (not 100% sure on that though). It is normally the slug coil that is hot when split because it is a bit further from the bridge and will he a fuller sound. I also use an Asymmetrical wind on my humbuckers, and usually wind the slug coil a bit hotter when I do a 4 lead connector so it is slightly hotter when split.
@@billsguitargarage thank you sir. I will be posting sound demos soon. When I had the active pickup in I had disconnected the stock tone cap. When I wired these in I put it back in the circuit. They sounded muddy and weak so I changed the tone circuit using the EMG inactive tone pot and that brought it more inline for what I was looking for. I am gonna play it ths way for a while before making any more changes. Get the heights adjusted properly. They sound great already after that tone pot change so I expect them to dial in even better.
Looking great buddy, I tried to follow prs pics and took that lower horn inner carve right down on my GGBO. Looking at the flame maple makes me want to do another using it this time. I'll need to be careful of your vids making me spend money lol
@billsguitargarage well it looks great buddy, doing a cracking job. I did binding for the first time on my ggbo so was looking at pics of prs to see how they did it. That's where I seen the carve and how deep it went.
Awesome Bill! When we get to hear this I can see myself getting a set of your pickups. Cheers
Many Thanks! I'd be more then happy to hook you up with a set of pickups!
That's looking absolutely stunning, Bill!
Thanks BK.
Well done Mr. Bill! I wish I put a belly carve on mine when I did my first build something to ponder while you are away is that lower carve where the side of your hand fits. A straight line curve is pretty comfortable but if you cup that carve with a scraper that meaty part of the side of your hand lays in there like it is getting a gentle hug. Try it out on a scrap of cut off from the body to feel that little bit of difference it makes.
BTW.. I put the sidewinders in my Mockingbird yesterday and di the set up again on the FRX after tearing it all down for a good cleaning. I managed to pull the bridge ground out while pulling too hard on the wire while stripping the end.. After that was done I test played it and the inner flat pole bobbins are the active part when I do the split on the two way. Will swapping the black position and the red n white reverse that so the outer bobbins with the screws become active? Or do I need to do a different combination with the red white and black to rearrange that configuration?
The pickups are wired with the standard Seymour Duncan wiring, which does make the slug coil the hot coil when split. if you want the screw coil to be the hot coil, then run the green wire to hot and the black wire to ground. However, you may notice it sounds a bit thinner that way. Also you may run in to an issue with the pickups being out of phase that way (not 100% sure on that though).
It is normally the slug coil that is hot when split because it is a bit further from the bridge and will he a fuller sound. I also use an Asymmetrical wind on my humbuckers, and usually wind the slug coil a bit hotter when I do a 4 lead connector so it is slightly hotter when split.
@@billsguitargarage thank you sir. I will be posting sound demos soon. When I had the active pickup in I had disconnected the stock tone cap. When I wired these in I put it back in the circuit. They sounded muddy and weak so I changed the tone circuit using the EMG inactive tone pot and that brought it more inline for what I was looking for. I am gonna play it ths way for a while before making any more changes. Get the heights adjusted properly.
They sound great already after that tone pot change so I expect them to dial in even better.
Looking great buddy, I tried to follow prs pics and took that lower horn inner carve right down on my GGBO. Looking at the flame maple makes me want to do another using it this time. I'll need to be careful of your vids making me spend money lol
This is my first carved top, so there is some trial and error happening.
@billsguitargarage well it looks great buddy, doing a cracking job. I did binding for the first time on my ggbo so was looking at pics of prs to see how they did it. That's where I seen the carve and how deep it went.
Gonna be another beauty Bill! Don't worry about the GGBO. We don't need no stinking contest to build guitars.
Thanks, its my first time doing a carved top, so I'm pretty happy with the results!
@@billsguitargarage well great job on the carve.
Nice carves Bill, I like the plan for the colour too 👍
Thanks Gio. I hope to start dying the top later this week.