Thanks for these videos, I still refer back to them to refresh my memory on things. I prefer the plastic version of this tool, personally. I always found the plastic one to be easier to work with, though as you say, they do tend to wear out. I just treat them as disposable tools. The metal one is more robust, but I find it harder to get over the wires sometimes, and it's easier to damage the internals of the connector. I still do keep both on hand, but I reach for the plastic version first.
Great stuff - I'm about to do this on 3 critical d-subs, and never having had to extract and move pins on these before, this was precisely what I needed to know. Thanks!
Tip: if you've gotten the removal tool all the way into where the witness hole disappears but the pin still won't pull out, flip the connector around and see if the pin is sticking out a little further than the others on the connection side. If so, try pushing the pin out from interface side using a blunt-nosed instrument. Tip 2: Pull the red and white tool halves part before pushing hard on them unless you're actually trying to collect a core sample of your palm for some reason (yes, I did that). Tip 3: nothing ever works in real life as well as it does in videos - be patient and keep trying!
The all plastic pin removers are better, they don't last as long but they won't damage your connector as readily as the metal. One of the protips is to use side cutters and make a small cut at the end of the tool to allow it to slide over a wire if the pin is already part of a harness. One thing I was taught was the use of iso alcohol to lubricate the pins and the tool making removal and insertion much easier and due to evaporation it doesn't need to be cleaned.
@@alvarolopezcorral4850 I think it's the red/white one, here's a datasheet that lists based on contact size on pg 15. It seems the Amphenol PN is 10-538988-020. www.farnell.com/datasheets/1836138.pdf
they've doubled in price in 8 years. At this rate they'll cost around $100 by the year 2030. Buy all you can now, hold on to them and then sell them in a few years to retire.
How do you know it's broke? They occasionally can be stubborn, use some iso alcohol sprayed down the rear of the connector as lubrication and use the plastic tool as they allow some flexibility and won't damage your connector so easily. Typically when I had a tough one I would put the connector in a vise and tap the flat part of the removal tool with a small hammer and at the same time I'd yank on the wire the pin was attached to. I'm not sure I've ever seen one broke in that way then again we only ever used proper ITT connectors so if it's a cheaper one that could be. If the pin retention is broken the connector is scrap anyway so why are you trying to save a single pin?
Sometimes you can "push" then out from the other side using a mating pin or other device, but sometimes you're stuck with just making a whole new connector.
Thanks for these videos, I still refer back to them to refresh my memory on things.
I prefer the plastic version of this tool, personally. I always found the plastic one to be easier to work with, though as you say, they do tend to wear out. I just treat them as disposable tools. The metal one is more robust, but I find it harder to get over the wires sometimes, and it's easier to damage the internals of the connector. I still do keep both on hand, but I reach for the plastic version first.
Great stuff - I'm about to do this on 3 critical d-subs, and never having had to extract and move pins on these before, this was precisely what I needed to know. Thanks!
We have required instraction exraction tools 300 nos
Tip: if you've gotten the removal tool all the way into where the witness hole disappears but the pin still won't pull out, flip the connector around and see if the pin is sticking out a little further than the others on the connection side. If so, try pushing the pin out from interface side using a blunt-nosed instrument. Tip 2: Pull the red and white tool halves part before pushing hard on them unless you're actually trying to collect a core sample of your palm for some reason (yes, I did that). Tip 3: nothing ever works in real life as well as it does in videos - be patient and keep trying!
Excellent points - thanks for posting!
The all plastic pin removers are better, they don't last as long but they won't damage your connector as readily as the metal. One of the protips is to use side cutters and make a small cut at the end of the tool to allow it to slide over a wire if the pin is already part of a harness. One thing I was taught was the use of iso alcohol to lubricate the pins and the tool making removal and insertion much easier and due to evaporation it doesn't need to be cleaned.
Do you know the part number or name of the plastic pin remover I need to remove a SA-1017?
@@alvarolopezcorral4850 I think it's the red/white one, here's a datasheet that lists based on contact size on pg 15. It seems the Amphenol PN is 10-538988-020.
www.farnell.com/datasheets/1836138.pdf
Great video. Very useful to see it in action.
Thanks Stein great Video!!!!
they've doubled in price in 8 years. At this rate they'll cost around $100 by the year 2030. Buy all you can now, hold on to them and then sell them in a few years to retire.
Thanks for the presentation
Great tutorial, very useful.. thanks 👍
Insertions removals tools required in plastic versions not in metal.
very helpful. thanks for sharing
Thank you..You saved me a lot of time and aggravation..
very useful for beginners Tq bro
Great staff
How do you extract if the lock is broke inside? I mean you can feel the extractor going all the way but you cant remove the friggin pin. Thanks.
How do you know it's broke? They occasionally can be stubborn, use some iso alcohol sprayed down the rear of the connector as lubrication and use the plastic tool as they allow some flexibility and won't damage your connector so easily. Typically when I had a tough one I would put the connector in a vise and tap the flat part of the removal tool with a small hammer and at the same time I'd yank on the wire the pin was attached to. I'm not sure I've ever seen one broke in that way then again we only ever used proper ITT connectors so if it's a cheaper one that could be. If the pin retention is broken the connector is scrap anyway so why are you trying to save a single pin?
You are great, thanks a lot
very good, thanks
Can this tool work if, say there is a auxiliary jack is stuck in a input, can it pull it out??
Very good sir
We need more information on contact locking in insert
What size guage wire did you use and female pin?
The standard density pins will take 20 or 22 gauge wire. The high density pins will accept 22 gauge and smaller.
great info thanks
hi there. I have square shaped female pins and they're kind of short. can you tell me what they are called? are you familiar with them?
What size are you using?
How to buy. One
how to remove the pins when the cables are are broken from the pins?
how to crimp them after?
Sometimes you can "push" then out from the other side using a mating pin or other device, but sometimes you're stuck with just making a whole new connector.
where can I buy the wire?
So I may have missed it but what is the name of this tool lol?
Insertion/Removal Tool for Standard D-Sub pins. SKU: SAT-023
Don't buy the plastic ones, absolute trash.
Will these removal tools work with Deutsch sockets?