You forgot to do what every operator does when a rod bends: suck it back into the cylinder so it scores the barrel and makes it impossible to get it apart.
That would have gotten some 4 letter words out of me, for sure. I hate fixing something twice! $500 for a new rod is really a pretty reasonable deal. Nice work on this job.
Dang Jesse this thumb fought you since the beginning but with your persistence, strong work ethic and the want to do things the rite way you got it done and it works and looks great!! We need more people like you in this world.. men, real men that get things done and care and provide for their family’s, people like you are the backbone of this world. Keep up the great work my friend I really enjoy watching your videos👍👍
It’s always something, seams like you never catch up. Thanks for making these videos. You rebuild a lot of equipment to use building your house. Now it’s your house, next the shop, more equipment. Don’t forget to save time for your family and God. Enjoy your videos.
Man this thumb is giving a lot of grief I hope it stop giving any more grief. This thumb was a nightmare right from the start, the cool thing I like about you is you never give up like me, we are stuber and keep going till there is no more options to continue.
You were wondering why the new setup felt so much more natural. If I understand what you said, the left side of the joy stick is controlled by your thumb, so if the thumb activates with your thumb, what could feel more natural than squeezing your thumb, squeezes the thumb. Cool video Jesse!
Hydraulics can generate an amazing amount of force. Plus, that thumb cylinder has leverage working against it. Bucket curl is usually the strongest function of an excavator, as it equates to break out force (digging force). It might have around 10 tons of force at the teeth, where that cylinder is located, it may have easily 5x that. No relief valve, something's gotta give.
feel for you. Had something similar. I put a thumb on a new to me Bobcat , sent to the bobcat dealer to set the reliefs correctly. Got it back 3 months later only for the thumb to bend my bucket curl rod like a banana. They said they set the reliefs but apparently did not. They replaced for free.
Jesse Thanks for the comment about the locktite hydraulic formula. I immediately ordered it and when I had a hydraulic repair today, I was very happy to use it for the first time. Thanks!
My Kubota was doing the same thing. It had relief valves changed before I got it .I have to run a solid pin not a greaseable pin. Greaseable pin can bend or break. I watched Andrew's video on changing to a solid pin. I have same machine he has. My thumb is aftermarket not Kubota OEM. Your video has good info. Thanks
Can't wait to see your ICF house being finished off. That bucket jaw looked like a dinosaur's jaw that was broken. Made a lovely job of it though. Typical with the phome numbers though. I been there ! Nuther great video blog, and very funny in fast motion, thankyou :)
0:44 i'm sorry but the defeated claw coming back in slowly had me dying laughing for a sec, i've been there too just sitting in disbelief that some crazy series of things happened to catastrophically destroy my project
Glad to see you are a Loctite 545 convert! Been using it for years and have never had a single oil, air, hydraulic, water leak on any equipment fitting I used it on. One note though, you are using about two times too much.
When you started clearing the culvert, I thought I seen that new shaft bending again. I guess it was just the camera angle. Had me cussing for you. LOL
I didn't quite understand why you wanted to put the T in the middle of the hose, which would have required adapters on both sides so that there wouldn't have been much hose left. Couldn't you have just put the T on one end of the hose instead?
Jesse - I just discovered your two videos on the thumb. It's great to see your creativity at work, and I see you also attract some expert viewers/commenters. You have taught this 73-year-old a few things. I have done a lot of mechanic work, but never messed with hydraulics. Now you've got me wondering about the thumb on my KX-121... it's way strong, and I always have to worry about shearing a tooth pin on the bucket... definitely need to figure out if it has a relief valve! By the way, I subscribed.
If you put the pressure relief valve on the pressure line before the control valve, it will relieve the pressure on both sides of the cylinder - extension and retraction. I really like your channel
Jesse I have been watching your videos from the time you were doing some fabricating in your garage. That was a long time back and you sir have come a long way. I worked before retirement with the railway here in Canada operating heavy equipment. You have a break down on day shift 2 plus hours to fix by two men. same break down on afternoon shift, one man 25 minutes alone. Some can't adapt and go forward as they learn where others like you blast forward with your knowledge. I so enjoy thanks, Jesse.
Hey Jessy, i am a machanic from germany. You need an check valfe from the other line to the hydraulik tank. You will distroy your seals in the zylinder of air beeing pulled in. Always cool videos
I was thinking about this issue. Shouldn't the output from the new relief go through a one way valve to the other side of the cylinder? That way the displaced fluid can be returned to the other side so it doesn't generate a vacuum.
Maybe it is best that he never uses the curl ram to overpower the thumb ram, as that will cause a vacuum in the thumb return side. I suppose the absolute solution is to use even more valves..!
Thanks Jesse as always I loved the video! In the late 1970s I operated a mini excavator in an underground gold mine in northern Ontario Canada, this machine did not have a thumb but I managed to pick-up some hefty rocks to load into a 5 ton ore car, if there is a will, though having a thumb would have made the job easier!
I think you should do something about the other side from the cylinder. If its get pushed in, it generate a vacuum. Naybe connect the one port with a one way valve to the other end. Anyways a good Video.👍
I would never use a bent rod as it will wear out your wipers and seals very quickly as well as stress the heck out of the cylinder housing. Can't believe a reputable shop would have recommended that. The only other option is to straighten the rod (ala Keith Fenner) which takes a bit of experience. You went right with just replacing the rod.
Correct. Bent rod will have stress cracks in it, its hardened like tungsten or close to it. it's unsafe to use again. Guaranteed if it was examined it would be stress cracked
Just so you know... the valve selector box with the two wires coming off. After you take off the outer sleeve it's just the toilet roll looking thing. It unscrews, may or may not have two tiny flats for like a 1/8" thick shitty wrench. I just use a leather strap wrench. They normally just have 20ish threads and an o ring. For next time 🤙
I just bought a bobcat 334 and it has that style thumb to go on it it doesn't now so anyway I look at it I'm going to need to buy it's on and I was looking at the that kind and I thought it was kind of weak so I'm going to look into the kind that you weld on I think you were calling it the progressive because I can just see pending all kinds of those rods so thanks for showing that that showed me just what I was worried about good video thank you catch you on the next time thanks for sharing
The Bobcat 334 has an excellent thumb design. What it lacks is sufficient length in the actual steel assembly. If you can salvage a thumb from another machine I would do that. The 334 should have the same parts as a 331, 335, 430 and 435, possibly more even. But confirm that for yourself. The main problem with the Bobcats thumb is it's not long enough but with an old cutting edge you can add on about 12" before it will interfere with the bucket cylinder. The 430 I run sometimes has that modification and it makes it a breeze to pick up big logs and rocks. It still can't hurt itself even when its picking up the max weight it hardly will relieve the thumb cylinder. None of the weld on stuff with compare with the OE design but if it's all you can find it's better than no thumb at all
Thank you for using hydro/pneum. loctite. Teflon tape is never a good option for hydraulics on npt. That Teflon gets into the system, you got bad valves on your hands. Also, I would think you system is good for 3000psi. Be careful of setting that relief too low. You will build up some heat if you use the grapple alot. I love how many fittings you have. Npt, jic, sae, bspt, inverted flare. Goodness, that is a Frankenstein. Good stuff bud. I sell many of the parts you used. Heavy equipment is its own animal, for sure
@ 38:30 0w40??? You must have some kind of Daimler Benz product laying around.... My Challenger takes that too..... Never thought I'd see that being wiped on a hydraulic cylinder..... Heh heh heh!!!
That's a nice fix , the lack of a bypass is a design error I assume the thumb cylinder was just essentially solid and when it was touched by the bucket it had nowhere to go, really that bypass should go to the other side of the cylinder as the opposite applies to the retract, if pushed it would just break the oil column in the retrsct side, interesting
They need to be able to handle a lot of flow when the system pressure is set higher then the relief pressure. Like in this case. I would have done this differently then jesse has done on this excavator. Set the working pressure at the desired pressure, and set the relief valve slightly higher. Like 200 psi or something.
I love how the new welder has EXACTLY the same metal case as the 60 year old welder 🤣🤣 Probably still made on the same machine, just the internals changed (hopefully 👀).
Given where youre putting that relief valve, what happens to the 'suction' side hyd curcuit when it goes over relief? Wont there be a serious vacuum on the rod side if the thumb cylinder gets collapsed by curling the bucket? Will that create a negative air spring effect? Cause cavitation? The relief valve solves the overload on one side, but the other does what? I was trying to Google what to do, a crossover relief near the cylinder that both hyd hoses go through before going to the cylinder ports somewhat makes sense, and i see people have done that, but i also read others say that type of relief setup is only meant for hyd motors or multiple single acting cylinders, etc. Because the rod displaces fluid, youd still end up with a bind doing it this way. I hate to be a buzzkill, i know you just put this work into it, but i think the correct way to fix this is to buy a different electronic valve that has the reliefs built into it. Install it, set it to the desired pressure and be done with it. This is the cheapest way i can think of doing it correctly. If someone here knows more about this, id like to hear it. I have a kubota backhoe i added a manual thumb to, and am looking to buy a fullsize hoe ill probably need to plumb for a hyd one soon, so ill need to figure this out eventually on my own.
I see Farmcraft101 commented here, love that channel, too. In his vid where he's diagnosing his hyd trouble with his mini's dozer blade creeping up on its own, he talks about how the rod displaces fluid. At first, i think he didn't know whether it was the piston or the valve controlling it gone bad. He eventually figures it out, that bad cylinder packing seals couldn't explain why the cylinder was creeping up. The reason why was because the cylinder rod displaces fluid, so therefore the cylinder cant move without a net gain/loss of fluid (the volume of rod inside/outside). This should be accounted for when laying out the hyd circuitry to have everything work smoothly, imo.
Magister Hydraulic are junk ,they are NOT case hardened , I replaced an existing cylinder , with in 10 minutes the Magister shaft was bent . $500 bucks , shot. I wonder , with the low pressure how use full your thumb will be. You never said , was the old shaft straightened or replaced with a hardened shaft. Great content ! Thanks.
He replaced it and I am sure the new rod was better than the old. Is there a place that sells better cylinders? This place wasnt the cheapest but they seemed to have a big selection of dimensions
If the new rod bends or you want to up the pressure on the relief valve so the thumb doesn’t move, you should go to a larger rod diameter. You might be able to bore out the gland on your existing cylinder and fit a larger diameter rod.
With a hydraulic press with soft placement parts one does not have to spend over 500 dollars to replace said cylinder. Do NOT stroke the cylinder when in this condition. Otherwise ya'll can straighten such a cylinder and seals will still not leak. Try not to bend quite so far as the brass bushings also screw up. One must keep after control valves to inhibit such errors. Ya'll can unbend such without a cylinder kit. While still just removed from machine and not opened up. I did cylinders a lot years ago not having to disassemble. Measure rod with dial indicator to straighten. If heated rod can be reorganized back to straight condition crystal strength alignment. NEW ROD NOT NECESSARY.
I'm surprised you don't have an engine drive welder! A lincoln ranger 225 or miller bobcat or trailblazer would probably be a good thing for you to have and they come up at auctions all the time. Avoid gasoline engine models over 1000hrs as a general rule, you don't have to worry as much about hours with diesel engine drives though. I bought a Miller Big Blue 300 pro at auction with 6000hrs on it, runs like a sewing machine.
You forgot to do what every operator does when a rod bends: suck it back into the cylinder so it scores the barrel and makes it impossible to get it apart.
they probably think it will straighten it out 🤣 ...good to see you over here though, I watch your video's when I get a chance, good stuff
That would have gotten some 4 letter words out of me, for sure. I hate fixing something twice! $500 for a new rod is really a pretty reasonable deal. Nice work on this job.
There were some 4 letter words for sure lol But it was my fault because I never should operated it until I could get the bucket to push the thumb
Rats.
Dang.
Damn.
Uh-oh.
Lame.
Darn.
Gosh.
0:56 He says something. I'll leave you to interpret.
Dang Jesse this thumb fought you since the beginning but with your persistence, strong work ethic and the want to do things the rite way you got it done and it works and looks great!! We need more people like you in this world.. men, real men that get things done and care and provide for their family’s, people like you are the backbone of this world. Keep up the great work my friend I really enjoy watching your videos👍👍
It’s always something, seams like you never catch up. Thanks for making these videos. You rebuild a lot of equipment to use building your house. Now it’s your house, next the shop, more equipment. Don’t forget to save time for your family and God. Enjoy your videos.
Man this thumb is giving a lot of grief I hope it stop giving any more grief.
This thumb was a nightmare right from the start, the cool thing I like about you is you never
give up like me, we are stuber and keep going till there is no more options to continue.
Glad you got it sorted by now, looked really like a "oh nooo!" moment when that rod got bent...
😱👍👍👍
That was pretty cool that you had that camera on the lift cylinder when it bent, I've never seen that on video before. Great video Jesse!
That’s what I was thinking! Also that reaction was great.
yeah, like 3 cameras on it at the right time! That never happens.
You were wondering why the new setup felt so much more natural. If I understand what you said, the left side of the joy stick is controlled by your thumb, so if the thumb activates with your thumb, what could feel more natural than squeezing your thumb, squeezes the thumb. Cool video Jesse!
I think it's also bucket controls, left is pick up dirt, left button is pick up with thumb, then of course right to dump
I love your approach to things, because how you talked about things!!!
oh man, just be thankful you got it on video; and from two angles too! I really appreciate the content so just know all your hard work isn't in vain.
Great video! It must take incredible pressure to bend a thick steel rod like that!!
Hydraulics can generate an amazing amount of force. Plus, that thumb cylinder has leverage working against it. Bucket curl is usually the strongest function of an excavator, as it equates to break out force (digging force). It might have around 10 tons of force at the teeth, where that cylinder is located, it may have easily 5x that. No relief valve, something's gotta give.
feel for you. Had something similar. I put a thumb on a new to me Bobcat , sent to the bobcat dealer to set the reliefs correctly. Got it back 3 months later only for the thumb to bend my bucket curl rod like a banana. They said they set the reliefs but apparently did not. They replaced for free.
Great job on fitting and fixing the thumb it seems to be working really well now and soon cleared that overgrown shrubbery easily and cleanlly 👍
Dude you are so in control of your emotions. I would have been yelling obscenities after it broke. All that work damn.
Love watching you problem solve. You are great at it. Looking forward to your new projects and completing your home.
Good job Jesse. Great to see it fixed and back in action again.
"Oh jesus...Christmas." 😂 I gotta start using that one.
CLARK GRISWOLD
@@pyronixe U think you hate it now, wait 'til you drive it.
Jesse
Thanks for the comment about the locktite hydraulic formula. I immediately ordered it and when I had a hydraulic repair today, I was very happy to use it for the first time. Thanks!
A few of my viewers recommended it to me and it has worked very well so I wanted to pass it on
My Kubota was doing the same thing. It had relief valves changed before I got it .I have to run a solid pin not a greaseable pin. Greaseable pin can bend or break. I watched Andrew's video on changing to a solid pin. I have same machine he has. My thumb is aftermarket not Kubota OEM. Your video has good info. Thanks
Can't wait to see your ICF house being finished off. That bucket jaw looked like a dinosaur's jaw that was broken. Made a lovely job of it though. Typical with the phome numbers though. I been there ! Nuther great video blog, and very funny in fast motion, thankyou :)
A lot more interesting then what Andew"s has been putting out lately, thank you keep it up.
0:44 i'm sorry but the defeated claw coming back in slowly had me dying laughing for a sec, i've been there too just sitting in disbelief that some crazy series of things happened to catastrophically destroy my project
Glad to see you are a Loctite 545 convert! Been using it for years and have never had a single oil, air, hydraulic, water leak on any equipment fitting I used it on. One note though, you are using about two times too much.
That was really cool, riding out there on the stick. Take care.
When you started clearing the culvert, I thought I seen that new shaft bending again. I guess it was just the camera angle. Had me cussing for you. LOL
Your Video production is EXCELLENT these days Jesse! 👍👍👍👍👍
Good Job Jesse.Czekam na nowe pomysły i projekty Pozdrawiam z Poland.👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎😎
I didn't quite understand why you wanted to put the T in the middle of the hose, which would have required adapters on both sides so that there wouldn't have been much hose left. Couldn't you have just put the T on one end of the hose instead?
"l"ll"
Jesse - I just discovered your two videos on the thumb. It's great to see your creativity at work, and I see you also attract some expert viewers/commenters. You have taught this 73-year-old a few things. I have done a lot of mechanic work, but never messed with hydraulics. Now you've got me wondering about the thumb on my KX-121... it's way strong, and I always have to worry about shearing a tooth pin on the bucket... definitely need to figure out if it has a relief valve! By the way, I subscribed.
Thanks.it should definitely have a relief valve. Moat modern mini excavators do for the aux hydraulics. Definitely should find it and adjust
For a moment there it looked like the rod bent again as you where clearing the brush (duh, fish-eye lens).
If you put the pressure relief valve on the pressure line before the control valve, it will relieve the pressure on both sides of the cylinder - extension and retraction. I really like your channel
When that valve shuts off and the button is not pressed, it cuts the flow and the relief valve is bypassed. Thats why the rod got bent
@@jmuller86 Thanks for taking the time to reply and explain why the rod bent.
Very educational thank you I’m not into big machines but I actually found this very interesting!! Thank you for sharing this with me!
Jesse I have been watching your videos from the time you were doing some fabricating in your garage.
That was a long time back and you sir have come a long way.
I worked before retirement with the railway here in Canada operating heavy equipment. You have a break down on day shift 2 plus hours to fix by two men. same break down on afternoon shift, one man 25 minutes alone.
Some can't adapt and go forward as they learn where others like you blast forward with your knowledge.
I so enjoy thanks, Jesse.
just nib nosing on the net JESSE and you could pick up spanner wrenches at a good price. great video as always
You are constantly working on many things. Make it interesting❤❤❤❤
Hey Jessy, i am a machanic from germany. You need an check valfe from the other line to the hydraulik tank.
You will distroy your seals in the zylinder of air beeing pulled in.
Always cool videos
I was thinking about this issue. Shouldn't the output from the new relief go through a one way valve to the other side of the cylinder? That way the displaced fluid can be returned to the other side so it doesn't generate a vacuum.
Maybe it is best that he never uses the curl ram to overpower the thumb ram, as that will cause a vacuum in the thumb return side. I suppose the absolute solution is to use even more valves..!
Thank you, another big job,i learn a lot and thank you for shared the hydraulic experience,awesome 👍👍👍👍
The garage will make some headaches go away.
Nice repair Jesse Looks like it works well
Thanks Jesse as always I loved the video! In the late 1970s I operated a mini excavator in an underground gold mine in northern Ontario Canada, this machine did not have a thumb but I managed to pick-up some hefty rocks to load into a 5 ton ore car, if there is a will, though having a thumb would have made the job easier!
Love that you are rockin the Amish beard.
I think you should do something about the other side from the cylinder. If its get pushed in, it generate a vacuum. Naybe connect the one port with a one way valve to the other end. Anyways a good Video.👍
great little video thank you sir Jesse
Nice job , Really clever indeed for a NY guy .
I would never use a bent rod as it will wear out your wipers and seals very quickly as well as stress the heck out of the cylinder housing. Can't believe a reputable shop would have recommended that. The only other option is to straighten the rod (ala Keith Fenner) which takes a bit of experience. You went right with just replacing the rod.
Correct. Bent rod will have stress cracks in it, its hardened like tungsten or close to it. it's unsafe to use again. Guaranteed if it was examined it would be stress cracked
The power of hydraulics brought sharply into focus. Bummer indeed.
Nice fixs Jess. 👍👍
that was a crazy bend. I hope you got the pressure set and it doesn't happen again. What a pain
Pat " Doing the walk of shame" lol
0:34 Ouch, "and it broke just like that - for no reason."
Thanks love the video jesse , lern a lot from you .
GOOD JOB, KEEP SAFE AND WELL...
I’m curious, what type of camera do you use attached to the bucket that always seem to stay perfectly horizontal and swivel for a better view?
360 camera
Glad you insisted on a new rod. It could never be perfectly straightened and any bend will cause the gland to twist in the cylinder.
yea he was almost trying to convince me it would be ok and I made it very clear that I dont care, I just want a new rod
Nice repair Jesse
You obviously have good diagnostic skills, what was the cost of the Relief valve?
I was surprised to realize that the excavator apparently doesn't have a full system pressure relief valve.
Great channel love your channel
Just so you know... the valve selector box with the two wires coming off. After you take off the outer sleeve it's just the toilet roll looking thing. It unscrews, may or may not have two tiny flats for like a 1/8" thick shitty wrench. I just use a leather strap wrench. They normally just have 20ish threads and an o ring. For next time 🤙
I just bought a bobcat 334 and it has that style thumb to go on it it doesn't now so anyway I look at it I'm going to need to buy it's on and I was looking at the that kind and I thought it was kind of weak so I'm going to look into the kind that you weld on I think you were calling it the progressive because I can just see pending all kinds of those rods so thanks for showing that that showed me just what I was worried about good video thank you catch you on the next time thanks for sharing
The Bobcat 334 has an excellent thumb design. What it lacks is sufficient length in the actual steel assembly. If you can salvage a thumb from another machine I would do that. The 334 should have the same parts as a 331, 335, 430 and 435, possibly more even. But confirm that for yourself. The main problem with the Bobcats thumb is it's not long enough but with an old cutting edge you can add on about 12" before it will interfere with the bucket cylinder. The 430 I run sometimes has that modification and it makes it a breeze to pick up big logs and rocks. It still can't hurt itself even when its picking up the max weight it hardly will relieve the thumb cylinder. None of the weld on stuff with compare with the OE design but if it's all you can find it's better than no thumb at all
@@NotSureJoeBauers thanks I need thumb, looking!
I'm thinking the pressure release would have worked on the thumb retract line. If its the bucket pressure against the thumb that caused the bend?
it would be creating a vacuum on that line so wouldnt work as well
I just watched the video of you putting that Thumb on, then youtube shows me this, Wow that thing didn't bend slow either, sheesh.
👌👌😎another good vid! Enjoy all your video's!
i am going to get one of them crescent wrenches just for the loaning to neighbor when they ask to borrow a wrench
The video messes with my eyes when u was clearing the brush out 🙄😂
Thank you for using hydro/pneum. loctite. Teflon tape is never a good option for hydraulics on npt. That Teflon gets into the system, you got bad valves on your hands. Also, I would think you system is good for 3000psi. Be careful of setting that relief too low. You will build up some heat if you use the grapple alot. I love how many fittings you have. Npt, jic, sae, bspt, inverted flare. Goodness, that is a Frankenstein. Good stuff bud. I sell many of the parts you used. Heavy equipment is its own animal, for sure
You could turn the elbow on the tank end facing away & route the pipe round maybe?? 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
@ 38:30 0w40??? You must have some kind of Daimler Benz product laying around....
My Challenger takes that too.....
Never thought I'd see that being wiped on a hydraulic cylinder..... Heh heh heh!!!
Yea it was for an ML320 i had. i have had a few of them
Awesome job 👏 👍
Nice repair.mod. A brief change up from the house build.
you have the biggest tools i've ever seen
That's a nice fix , the lack of a bypass is a design error I assume the thumb cylinder was just essentially solid and when it was touched by the bucket it had nowhere to go, really that bypass should go to the other side of the cylinder as the opposite applies to the retract, if pushed it would just break the oil column in the retrsct side, interesting
that has to suck seeing that transpire !wrong phone number BAaaaaaa what is wrong with the world ! Good job you were not under contract for a job !
Have you started working on the swing function on your man lift?
Very cool to see. Pretty violent!
looking good!
Very Good Job My Friend ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Reliefs don't need to move a lot of volume they just open another passage which greatly reduces pressure.
They need to be able to handle a lot of flow when the system pressure is set higher then the relief pressure. Like in this case. I would have done this differently then jesse has done on this excavator. Set the working pressure at the desired pressure, and set the relief valve slightly higher. Like 200 psi or something.
I love how the new welder has EXACTLY the same metal case as the 60 year old welder 🤣🤣
Probably still made on the same machine, just the internals changed (hopefully 👀).
Never throw away your old rotors. 😊
Given where youre putting that relief valve, what happens to the 'suction' side hyd curcuit when it goes over relief? Wont there be a serious vacuum on the rod side if the thumb cylinder gets collapsed by curling the bucket? Will that create a negative air spring effect? Cause cavitation? The relief valve solves the overload on one side, but the other does what?
I was trying to Google what to do, a crossover relief near the cylinder that both hyd hoses go through before going to the cylinder ports somewhat makes sense, and i see people have done that, but i also read others say that type of relief setup is only meant for hyd motors or multiple single acting cylinders, etc. Because the rod displaces fluid, youd still end up with a bind doing it this way.
I hate to be a buzzkill, i know you just put this work into it, but i think the correct way to fix this is to buy a different electronic valve that has the reliefs built into it. Install it, set it to the desired pressure and be done with it. This is the cheapest way i can think of doing it correctly.
If someone here knows more about this, id like to hear it. I have a kubota backhoe i added a manual thumb to, and am looking to buy a fullsize hoe ill probably need to plumb for a hyd one soon, so ill need to figure this out eventually on my own.
I see Farmcraft101 commented here, love that channel, too.
In his vid where he's diagnosing his hyd trouble with his mini's dozer blade creeping up on its own, he talks about how the rod displaces fluid. At first, i think he didn't know whether it was the piston or the valve controlling it gone bad. He eventually figures it out, that bad cylinder packing seals couldn't explain why the cylinder was creeping up. The reason why was because the cylinder rod displaces fluid, so therefore the cylinder cant move without a net gain/loss of fluid (the volume of rod inside/outside).
This should be accounted for when laying out the hyd circuitry to have everything work smoothly, imo.
Another great video
Nice videos My friend 👏👏👏
Good that you can tackle the repairs yourself save $$. Not including the cost to get the equipment to the repair shop.
great vid
piggy came to help!
Magister Hydraulic are junk ,they are NOT case hardened , I replaced an existing cylinder , with in 10 minutes the Magister shaft was bent . $500 bucks , shot. I wonder , with the low pressure how use full your thumb will be. You never said , was the old shaft straightened or replaced with a hardened shaft. Great content ! Thanks.
He replaced it and I am sure the new rod was better than the old. Is there a place that sells better cylinders? This place wasnt the cheapest but they seemed to have a big selection of dimensions
If the new rod bends or you want to up the pressure on the relief valve so the thumb doesn’t move, you should go to a larger rod diameter.
You might be able to bore out the gland on your existing cylinder and fit a larger diameter rod.
good job bro!
With a hydraulic press with soft placement parts one does not have to spend over 500 dollars to replace said cylinder. Do NOT stroke the cylinder when in this condition. Otherwise ya'll can straighten such a cylinder and seals will still not leak. Try not to bend quite so far as the brass bushings also screw up. One must keep after control valves to inhibit such errors. Ya'll can unbend such without a cylinder kit. While still just removed from machine and not opened up. I did cylinders a lot years ago not having to disassemble. Measure rod with dial indicator to straighten. If heated rod can be reorganized back to straight condition crystal strength alignment. NEW ROD NOT NECESSARY.
The loctite lol, I hope it never fails....
it's meant for hydraulic fittings. It works better than anything else I ever used
I'm surprised you don't have an engine drive welder! A lincoln ranger 225 or miller bobcat or trailblazer would probably be a good thing for you to have and they come up at auctions all the time. Avoid gasoline engine models over 1000hrs as a general rule, you don't have to worry as much about hours with diesel engine drives though. I bought a Miller Big Blue 300 pro at auction with 6000hrs on it, runs like a sewing machine.
Had the rod not bent you'd have likely kept using the excavator leading to a bucket replacement, potentially
Great video thankyou!!!!!!
Good video.
The angle of dangle is a little off, 😂😂,sorry JESSE, you will fix it, stay safe buddy
unbelievable you caught it on camera
When I bent a rod the hydraulic repair store told me there are Cadillac vs you go rods. I went with the Cadillac never had another problem.
damn it jim
Did you not get a sunburn, welding with no shirt? I seen my brother-in-law do it and was in major pain for a couple of weeks.
I did get a little sun burnt from it yea. I didnt think I was welding long enough to get it but I was wrong.
@@jmuller86 It does not take long, it is like having a mini sun blasting you with UV (A) (B) and (C).
👍 OUCH !!! that one stings