Thanks Ian once again, thanks for your work, I have it installed on my 5 inch drones and I have not had any problems with them, it is a pleasure to connect the battery and not hear the spark and the xt60s do not burn little by little either, I put it on all my 6s constructions, greetings!
The idea of antispark come from last time RC helicopter of 500 size or more. During that time, we uses 6S to 12S of 3000mAH or higher. When you connect that high voltage and current, the dean connector (some even use bullet style connector) get burn out pretty quick. Those days some even come out a resistor based 3rd wire connection that you will connect first (to slowly charge up the capacitor in the ESC) before you connect the battery. The reason why you can't just use a switch or relay is that, the spare still occur, but it happen on the switch/relay contact instead, and that will burn out the contact pins. The reason why it control (on/off) the negative side is because of using N-Channel MOSFET as a switch behavior. When the MOSFET turn on, there is like very low resistance and thus, no physical contact pin to generate arc. I did design and build my own antispark circuitry that has microcontroller to control a N-Channel Gate MOSFET, where once the battery is connected, the microcontroller then turn on the MOSFET after like 1 or 2 seconds later. After that, I also come out a simple P-Channel, capacitor and resistor to control the N-Channel gate instead. Those were like 20 years ago.
THERE ARE 2 VERSIONS OF IFLIGHT ANTISPARK FILTERS. The small one,that Mad burned in this video(35A) but also another one the Chimera 7 edition which is double the size(150A)
Actually there are three versions, in the iFlight Store Europe you can see all three of them in one store page. Mad here has the V1, then there is a V2 with a larger FET on it and the V3 has 2 of the larger FETs. In the description it says to use V1 or V2 on smaller quads up to 5 Inch, and to use the V3 with the double FETs on 7 inch or above.
I would still put a cap on there 😉 i use much bigger anti sparks on my electric skateboard and scooter. Good idea. Some xt90s have it built-in. I wonder if they could do a xt60s? 🤔😁😉
I had one die on a nazgul ECO. I just soldered on a new XT60 lead and it was back in business. Broken arms are a different story. These arms break if they hit a stiff blade of grass.
Maybe not direct connection to this topic, but I think in 2021 I've had worst year in FPV- 12 dead ESCs from cheap 25$ Rev35, through Tmotor Veloxes v2, even (at this time) 100$ Foxeer Reaper 65A, like 2 dead FCs. I was struggling with finding the reason, because ESCs were dying different ways, sometimes out of nowhere (punch, reboot and all processors were dead). Changed motors, VTX, FC, ESC and still they were dying. After YEAR of rebuilding, waste of money something hit me, when I was putting 13th ESC. Only thing I didnt change and all started since I've put it in was Spike Absorber. Took it out and now I'm using same ESC for 3 years without any issues.
Interesting deep dive Ian. I use the iflight spark filter on 2 of my quads and have I've had one issue where the small red wire disconnected during a crash. Would be interested to see a transistor repair.
Welp, I bought one of those and installed it in my first build that I just finished and haven't flown yet. I really hope this is a one-off. First the DJI goggles 3 and now this 😘 I really have a knack for picking components and I just started.
Hey Ian, I've been digging into this issue for the past week now. Iflight has 3 versions of these anti-spark modules. looking at the specs for the modules from iflights website it claims that the two smaller anti-spark filters can only handle 30amps continuous or 35 amps peak for 10 seconds, the nazgul eco has the smaller one so wouldn't this be an issue since the ESC is 55 amps and the anti-spark module can only handle 30 amps continuous? Iflight has the bigger module which is 30x16mm and that claims to be 150 amps continuous and 160 amps peak so wouldn't the bigger one be better suited? Wondering if using the small one is causing pre-mature failure since its not rated for the currently that most 6s ESC will draw or am I misunderstanding the specs? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Turn your iron up a bit, it's taking too long to heat that solder up. You'll get better joints, quicker, without lifting a pad. Good stuff everywhere else bud!.😊
Hi Mads, I had the same problem with my nazgul evoque f5 v2... it just wouldnt power on one day was completly dead like yours the drone was fairly new, i thought my stack had smoked so i got intouch with iflight and sent it off so they could look at it and within a few weeks they sent it back with the same stack in the drone everything the same. I dont know what they did to it but when i got it back it worked fine and has done ever since so i assumed it was something to do with that anti spark device also.
ON 6s Quads I have used spike protectors from other brands and I stopped. It has happened to me where I momentarily plugged/unplugged and the Spike protector fried and stopped passing current. I think they offer too much protection and are a point of failure. Sucks when it happens out in the field. Unless it's a super expensive cinema build, I would not use these so called spike protectors.
@@meotyda nah, every spark adds more resistance to the plug. its also hard for capacitors, when they fully get charged from zero to 100. eventually you can also just use xt60 anti spark plugs. think of car hifi capacitor, you'll have to pre-charge with a small bulb, so the cap wouldn't explode while connection power leads. @Mads Tech, the nazgul v3 uses different anti spark filter than new eco, bigger pcb. maybe the choosen one in the new eco nazgul does fail more often. i've not had 1 broken yet.
My iFlight Nazgul DC5 Eco fell out of the sky because of the anti spark plug. Sometimes it worked sometimes it didn’t. Thought it was a battery issue but soon after it fell out of the sky again during flying.
hey this just hapend to my in a fly the drone just turn off like 20meters of the beach and just smash into the ocean I was able to got the drone after looking for it like crazy all wet and full of sand now after a whole journey everything looks fine and I see that it was the reason why I have to replace it
@@mikey_b_here weird thing was that there was a sort of voltage fluxuation and warning before it fell. I was depseratly trying to get back bc my battery dropped to 2.8 volts and back to 3.5 (liion) and then it dropped
Wouldn't it be easier and more cost effective to install a physical switch rather than an anti spark? Would that accomplish the same thing while being more reliable?
hard to find a switch for 200A thats small an light. And yes it would spark the switch contact. You have to dissipate some of energy that wants to rush to the capacitor on connection somewhere.
@@KidCe. But is it actually 200a that rushes the cap? That seems like a lot without anything more than what it takes to power the quad as a load. I understand that there's enough to to spark. I definitely see your point on the size of the switch being too small for this application though.
The range on them things with the LHCP antennas and FCC unlocked DJI goggles v2 with 2 LHCP patches and 2 LHCP stubbys is insane by the way. Thats why i prefer the v2's over the 2's as the 2's are linier antennas and cant be changed inless you go inside and ruin your warrenty. You will most probably know this yourself tbh but to anyone that doesnnt... thank me later :p
I have this anti-spark filter installed on my custom 6S 5'' build and it died after roughly 6 months of freestyle flying (about 2-3 sessions per week). I used it alongside capacitor.
why would they put a antispark switch there？ spark is caused by caps charging up, it won’t hurt electronics in my opinion, are they trying to protect the xt60s? Why not just use antispark xt60 with a resistor???😅
you are essential to the industry.. cheers bud!
Thanks Ian once again, thanks for your work, I have it installed on my 5 inch drones and I have not had any problems with them, it is a pleasure to connect the battery and not hear the spark and the xt60s do not burn little by little either, I put it on all my 6s constructions, greetings!
The idea of antispark come from last time RC helicopter of 500 size or more. During that time, we uses 6S to 12S of 3000mAH or higher. When you connect that high voltage and current, the dean connector (some even use bullet style connector) get burn out pretty quick. Those days some even come out a resistor based 3rd wire connection that you will connect first (to slowly charge up the capacitor in the ESC) before you connect the battery.
The reason why you can't just use a switch or relay is that, the spare still occur, but it happen on the switch/relay contact instead, and that will burn out the contact pins.
The reason why it control (on/off) the negative side is because of using N-Channel MOSFET as a switch behavior. When the MOSFET turn on, there is like very low resistance and thus, no physical contact pin to generate arc.
I did design and build my own antispark circuitry that has microcontroller to control a N-Channel Gate MOSFET, where once the battery is connected, the microcontroller then turn on the MOSFET after like 1 or 2 seconds later. After that, I also come out a simple P-Channel, capacitor and resistor to control the N-Channel gate instead. Those were like 20 years ago.
Why not use antispark plugs with a resistor built in
Why isn't there an anti-spark XT60 from Amass like there is an XT90? I'd hate for that to fail while flying.
Love this kind of content. This is why I am a patreon
I have had 4 friends bring in their drones and this was the excat issue they had!
THERE ARE 2 VERSIONS OF IFLIGHT ANTISPARK FILTERS.
The small one,that Mad burned in this video(35A) but also another one the Chimera 7 edition which is double the size(150A)
Actually there are three versions, in the iFlight Store Europe you can see all three of them in one store page. Mad here has the V1, then there is a V2 with a larger FET on it and the V3 has 2 of the larger FETs. In the description it says to use V1 or V2 on smaller quads up to 5 Inch, and to use the V3 with the double FETs on 7 inch or above.
Thanks for all the info, Ian! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I would still put a cap on there 😉 i use much bigger anti sparks on my electric skateboard and scooter. Good idea. Some xt90s have it built-in. I wonder if they could do a xt60s? 🤔😁😉
I had one die on a nazgul ECO. I just soldered on a new XT60 lead and it was back in business. Broken arms are a different story. These arms break if they hit a stiff blade of grass.
me too
Why not the resistive spark plug like they put on the xt 90s?
Yeah it's cheaper and easier to replace..But that part is on the battery not on the drone..
Well worth watching , cheers 👍🏻
Maybe not direct connection to this topic, but I think in 2021 I've had worst year in FPV- 12 dead ESCs from cheap 25$ Rev35, through Tmotor Veloxes v2, even (at this time) 100$ Foxeer Reaper 65A, like 2 dead FCs. I was struggling with finding the reason, because ESCs were dying different ways, sometimes out of nowhere (punch, reboot and all processors were dead). Changed motors, VTX, FC, ESC and still they were dying. After YEAR of rebuilding, waste of money something hit me, when I was putting 13th ESC. Only thing I didnt change and all started since I've put it in was Spike Absorber. Took it out and now I'm using same ESC for 3 years without any issues.
nice! ive been thinking about scavenging one off my old nazgul but wasnt sure if it was worth the space this is perfect!
Interesting deep dive Ian. I use the iflight spark filter on 2 of my quads and have I've had one issue where the small red wire disconnected during a crash. Would be interested to see a transistor repair.
i have had a nazgul 5 v3 or smt for 2 years and have had no issues at all.
Welp, I bought one of those and installed it in my first build that I just finished and haven't flown yet. I really hope this is a one-off. First the DJI goggles 3 and now this 😘 I really have a knack for picking components and I just started.
What brand did you buy? I want to buy one myself.
I bought the same one he's discussing here. Iflight sells them.
@@mlentsch Yeah, we'll see. I just got the updated firmware for the G3 today, so things are looking up 😊
Hey Ian, I've been digging into this issue for the past week now. Iflight has 3 versions of these anti-spark modules. looking at the specs for the modules from iflights website it claims that the two smaller anti-spark filters can only handle 30amps continuous or 35 amps peak for 10 seconds, the nazgul eco has the smaller one so wouldn't this be an issue since the ESC is 55 amps and the anti-spark module can only handle 30 amps continuous? Iflight has the bigger module which is 30x16mm and that claims to be 150 amps continuous and 160 amps peak so wouldn't the bigger one be better suited? Wondering if using the small one is causing pre-mature failure since its not rated for the currently that most 6s ESC will draw or am I misunderstanding the specs? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
ESC 55A means the total is 55 x 4🤔
That solder blob left on that o3 made my eyes hurt 😂
A bigger solder tip would help as well.
Yes I could not be bothered for recording. The blob on top is fine it's a holding ad.
@@MadRC 😂😂😂. BTW thanks for the video mate
looked like the negative wire wasnt soldered that well to the esc
Turn your iron up a bit, it's taking too long to heat that solder up. You'll get better joints, quicker, without lifting a pad. Good stuff everywhere else bud!.😊
Hi Mads, I had the same problem with my nazgul evoque f5 v2... it just wouldnt power on one day was completly dead like yours the drone was fairly new, i thought my stack had smoked so i got intouch with iflight and sent it off so they could look at it and within a few weeks they sent it back with the same stack in the drone everything the same. I dont know what they did to it but when i got it back it worked fine and has done ever since so i assumed it was something to do with that anti spark device also.
Discord link don't work say invalid link
order an IC and fix i! would like to have seen it
ON 6s Quads I have used spike protectors from other brands and I stopped. It has happened to me where I momentarily plugged/unplugged and the Spike protector fried and stopped passing current. I think they offer too much protection and are a point of failure. Sucks when it happens out in the field. Unless it's a super expensive cinema build, I would not use these so called spike protectors.
Yup. Not needed and just another thing to fail…
Anyone else think it’s kinda cool when it pop plugging in?
It helps you understand how much energy is stored in li-po battery, how much amps it can give and makes you respect your quad.
I do love thinking I just cheated death everytime I plug in xt60
@@meotyda nah, every spark adds more resistance to the plug.
its also hard for capacitors, when they fully get charged from zero to 100.
eventually you can also just use xt60 anti spark plugs.
think of car hifi capacitor, you'll have to pre-charge with a small bulb, so the cap wouldn't explode while connection power leads.
@Mads Tech, the nazgul v3 uses different anti spark filter than new eco, bigger pcb. maybe the choosen one in the new eco nazgul does fail more often.
i've not had 1 broken yet.
Is it cool burning the battery connector every time?
6S snap makes me hard
What thermal cam do you use ?
Just be aware that sparks create high voltage spikes and antispark protects your electronics from that. I would put a big cap in there at least.
please check the bec suppling operating voltage to the comparator
My iFlight Nazgul DC5 Eco fell out of the sky because of the anti spark plug. Sometimes it worked sometimes it didn’t. Thought it was a battery issue but soon after it fell out of the sky again during flying.
I have one of theese installed on a 4 inch quad and I have to say that the antispark feature is great.I wonder how possible is it to fail midflight?
Mine did midflight
My chimera did, I was discharging my batt so I pushed it hard, log shows average 70amp during 2 minutes, so I will say yours will be fine
hey this just hapend to my in a fly the drone just turn off like 20meters of the beach and just smash into the ocean I was able to got the drone after looking for it like crazy all wet and full of sand now after a whole journey everything looks fine and I see that it was the reason why I have to replace it
seems like an unnecessary part to add to your drone just so you dont have to hear the pop when you plug in
What thermal camera is that?
Infiray P2 Pro
mine randomly failed midair with my chimera 7. broke an arm and ruined my long range FPV trip.
Same. Mine luckily happened at low level - no damage.
@@mikey_b_here weird thing was that there was a sort of voltage fluxuation and warning before it fell. I was depseratly trying to get back bc my battery dropped to 2.8 volts and back to 3.5 (liion) and then it dropped
Wouldn't it be easier and more cost effective to install a physical switch rather than an anti spark? Would that accomplish the same thing while being more reliable?
A switch along a lead?
Or will it still spark alone the switch contacts?
hard to find a switch for 200A thats small an light.
And yes it would spark the switch contact. You have to dissipate some of energy that wants to rush to the capacitor on connection somewhere.
@@KidCe. Right on. Thanks for the knowledge. I'm still learning about all this stuff. 🤘
@@KidCe. But is it actually 200a that rushes the cap? That seems like a lot without anything more than what it takes to power the quad as a load. I understand that there's enough to to spark. I definitely see your point on the size of the switch being too small for this application though.
I know it wasnt working at that point, but seemed a bit risky to plig the battery whilst the O3 antennae were unplugged.
It's fine. These Air units will survive fine with no antenna. They won't burn out.
@@MadRCreally? What kind of black magic is in there?
The range on them things with the LHCP antennas and FCC unlocked DJI goggles v2 with 2 LHCP patches and 2 LHCP stubbys is insane by the way. Thats why i prefer the v2's over the 2's as the 2's are linier antennas and cant be changed inless you go inside and ruin your warrenty. You will most probably know this yourself tbh but to anyone that doesnnt... thank me later :p
Yup, and I just tested Goggles 3 vs V2 and the V2 still kill em in range + penetration (with TrueRC's help)
looks like just a point of failure
I have this anti-spark filter installed on my custom 6S 5'' build and it died after roughly 6 months of freestyle flying (about 2-3 sessions per week). I used it alongside capacitor.
I’d just snip that shit off and rip. Just another point of failure that’s not needed lol
Who cares about the spark? Let it spark and once in a while put a new xt60. I see no reason why. Also a smaller Capacitor makes a smaller spark.
You shouldn’t put a smaller capacitor on though
Kapasitor sudah cukup om
Why so complicated? For years we made our own with a resistor. Dead simple and it what not a flight critical item so it didn't matter if it failed.
Seems typical iFlight, add some junkthat isnt needed to cause an extra failure point
Definitely a waist of time and extra piece to break. Not for builders for sure. We don't mind the spark
why would they put a antispark switch there？ spark is caused by caps charging up, it won’t hurt electronics in my opinion, are they trying to protect the xt60s? Why not just use antispark xt60 with a resistor???😅
Typical iflight product...
2:14... That's a safety feature so you don't grind your fingers into minced meat....😉
8:33.. that is a 5pin OpAmp... [EDIT] I see you found it...