ADDITIONAL INSIGHT REGARDING VIDEO: As far as the use of anti-seize when replacing spark plugs......most plug manufacturers today state NOT to use anti-seize when installing. Although, this is a more recent revelation, 10 years ago Autozone would try and sell you an anti-seize pack with a spark plug pictured on it any time you purchased plugs lol. Many mechanics still use anti-seize when doing plugs, and I’ve personally done it on countless vehicles for over 15+ years with 0 issues. For me, this article pretty much sums it up: agradetools.com/be-confident-with-anti-seize-how-to-use-the-right-anti-seize-like-a-boss/ ..Basically as the article is stating, if you have a bunch of people overtightening their lubricated spark plugs from inexperience & stripping out their engine heads....the plug manufacturer could be held liable. By telling you not to use anti-seize they reduce their liability, and they wouldn’t be held responsible for you over tightening their plugs. I think experience is a huge factor with the use of anti-seize, and obviously if it’s going to be used, moderation is the key to success for its use. Less is more. Only a small coat around the center threads is necessary, you don’t want to affect the plugs grounding abilities by drenching it with anti-seize. An issue that can arise from using too much anti-seize is that it gets into the combustion chamber area where is could potentially short out the electrodes. In hindsight......considering a lot of people watching this probably don’t have a ton of experience with plugs/anti-seize...I felt I at least should share a disclaimer that anymore plug companies don’t suggest it use. For me, it’s more or less habitual at this point, and in most cases I’m sure you could get away without using it, but for certain applications I still think it serves a purpose when used modestly. A general rule many consider when choosing to use anti-seize is if the plug has an anti-seize plating (chromey looking finish), do not use it. If the plugs have a dull iron or black finish on the threaded area, it’s ok to use anti-seize. In my opinion, the use of anti-seize is optional and a matter of preference, and with or without its use a spark plug job can be done successfully.
Thanks. First time on a Dakota for myself. What you call "wrencher" I know as "shadetree mechanic," of which I'm a lifer @ 44. Just a suggestion, but I have always blown air and shop vac'd the areas around and inside the cylinder covers and plug wells to lessen the chance of material contamination. Wrench on.
I didn't you plug the wires back in. All my wires were chewed off by squirrels, and I can't for the life of figure out where the hell wire 1 goes back too. Would it kill Mopar to number the posts?
Do you have a video of replacing the intake manifold on this truck? I removed the alternator, a/c compressor but was confused about bracket on the front of the engine that was still in my way. It seems to be a common problem with this truck but i'm unable to find anyone who has done a step by step video fixing it. Any help is appreciated!!!
Do you have to change the spark plugs when you change the wires? I just replaced my spark plugs under a year ago and it’s throwing the p0304 code again so I believe it’s the wiring at fault now. Just wondering if I am needing to change the spark plugs again or if I can just do the wires
No you don’t have to do both. You can change plugs without wires, and vice versa…wires without plugs. But…In your case i would probably pull a plug or two out to see how they are looking, to ensure the plugs are still looking good…and that should give you some more insight as to if you have a plug issue or not. I would probably start with inspecting that 4th plug, and the wire while your at it. The 4th plug should be the middle plug on the passenger side.
I forget exactly been a little bit, might have been amazon. I either do that, or search the part number on Google and try to find the cheapest reputable source
How did you manage to get the plug wires in all the right spots? Please help! Did a job on my 3.9 Dakota and I have used about 10-12 diagrams for the wire order and they’re never right. I just don’t understand.
@@Immortalisgodyeah especially when the idiot who owned the truck before didn’t know what he was doing and messed up the shielding making it so a socket couldn’t fit
@@leshunstovall7935 my guy definitely no need to comment the same thing 3 separate times. But as I mentioned in the videos caption...In regards to the spark plug gap, I typically like to check/correct the gap before installing. But in attempts to find the correct gap, I found a lot of mixed numbers from different sources, so I just left each plug as is.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.15 (3/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IVwR87OH0_A/mqdefault.jpg)
ADDITIONAL INSIGHT REGARDING VIDEO:
As far as the use of anti-seize when replacing spark plugs......most plug manufacturers today state NOT to use anti-seize when installing. Although, this is a more recent revelation, 10 years ago Autozone would try and sell you an anti-seize pack with a spark plug pictured on it any time you purchased plugs lol.
Many mechanics still use anti-seize when doing plugs, and I’ve personally done it on countless vehicles for over 15+ years with 0 issues. For me, this article pretty much sums it up:
agradetools.com/be-confident-with-anti-seize-how-to-use-the-right-anti-seize-like-a-boss/
..Basically as the article is stating, if you have a bunch of people overtightening their lubricated spark plugs from inexperience & stripping out their engine heads....the plug manufacturer could be held liable. By telling you not to use anti-seize they reduce their liability, and they wouldn’t be held responsible for you over tightening their plugs.
I think experience is a huge factor with the use of anti-seize, and obviously if it’s going to be used, moderation is the key to success for its use. Less is more. Only a small coat around the center threads is necessary, you don’t want to affect the plugs grounding abilities by drenching it with anti-seize. An issue that can arise from using too much anti-seize is that it gets into the combustion chamber area where is could potentially short out the electrodes.
In hindsight......considering a lot of people watching this probably don’t have a ton of experience with plugs/anti-seize...I felt I at least should share a disclaimer that anymore plug companies don’t suggest it use.
For me, it’s more or less habitual at this point, and in most cases I’m sure you could get away without using it, but for certain applications I still think it serves a purpose when used modestly. A general rule many consider when choosing to use anti-seize is if the plug has an anti-seize plating (chromey looking finish), do not use it. If the plugs have a dull iron or black finish on the threaded area, it’s ok to use anti-seize.
In my opinion, the use of anti-seize is optional and a matter of preference, and with or without its use a spark plug job can be done successfully.
Thanks for posting this. I’m about to go in on my Dakota!
💪🤙
Thanks. First time on a Dakota for myself. What you call "wrencher" I know as "shadetree mechanic," of which I'm a lifer @ 44. Just a suggestion, but I have always blown air and shop vac'd the areas around and inside the cylinder covers and plug wells to lessen the chance of material contamination. Wrench on.
Definitely! Nothing wrong with that 👍
I love that you’re using dish gloves for this job :)
Lolol. This video was recorded in early Covid times, acquiring gloves was a challenge 😂
Good job man this is the best video out there for this job straight and to the point . Keep up the awesome work be blessed.
I appreciate it! Thank you for the comment
What's does you suppose to gap it on
@@TheOriginalBeeCee What's the gap supposed to be?????
@@leshunstovall7935
Forty thousandths
Thanks for the video! Just bought an 01 3.9 and need to do plugs and wires
Awesome man! Congrats on the new pick-up, literally lol.
Best video i have seen yet on working on this type of truck. Thank you soo much for your help!
I appreciate the comment! 🙏
All with one hand.. that's impressive. Thanks
Lol I appreciate it!
What about the distributor cap and, rotor ?
What did you gap the plugs at ?
I didn't you plug the wires back in. All my wires were chewed off by squirrels, and I can't for the life of figure out where the hell wire 1 goes back too. Would it kill Mopar to number the posts?
Do you have a video of replacing the intake manifold on this truck? I removed the alternator, a/c compressor but was confused about bracket on the front of the engine that was still in my way. It seems to be a common problem with this truck but i'm unable to find anyone who has done a step by step video fixing it. Any help is appreciated!!!
I dont, unfortunately. This is not my truck, just did the job on it.
Do you have to change the spark plugs when you change the wires? I just replaced my spark plugs under a year ago and it’s throwing the p0304 code again so I believe it’s the wiring at fault now. Just wondering if I am needing to change the spark plugs again or if I can just do the wires
No you don’t have to do both. You can change plugs without wires, and vice versa…wires without plugs.
But…In your case i would probably pull a plug or two out to see how they are looking, to ensure the plugs are still looking good…and that should give you some more insight as to if you have a plug issue or not. I would probably start with inspecting that 4th plug, and the wire while your at it. The 4th plug should be the middle plug on the passenger side.
Where did you get the mopar plugs from?
I prefer champions but may switch.
I forget exactly been a little bit, might have been amazon. I either do that, or search the part number on Google and try to find the cheapest reputable source
How did you manage to get the plug wires in all the right spots? Please help! Did a job on my 3.9 Dakota and I have used about 10-12 diagrams for the wire order and they’re never right. I just don’t understand.
You do them one by one so you don’t get them mixed up. But this should be the firing order:
images.app.goo.gl/mVAzbZUgJF3t9XU67
How did you deal with those stupid heat shields?
Are they a big problem
@@Immortalisgodyeah especially when the idiot who owned the truck before didn’t know what he was doing and messed up the shielding making it so a socket couldn’t fit
Thanks for not mentioning the gap spec
Anytime 💪
What to gap it on
@@leshunstovall7935 my guy definitely no need to comment the same thing 3 separate times. But as I mentioned in the videos caption...In regards to the spark plug gap, I typically like to check/correct the gap before installing. But in attempts to find the correct gap, I found a lot of mixed numbers from different sources, so I just left each plug as is.
It tells ya, right on the hood sticker from the factory.
@@MrMjrob if it was, I completely missed it lol
Great video thanks you liked and subscribed.
I appreciate it! Thank you 🙏
What is the wiring order, please an thank you
Just have to trust a man with yellow dish gloves
Christopher Mccray 100 percent a must
Nice 😊
🙏🙏🙏
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks 😊
You follow me?
Thanks bro
🙏 appreciate the comment man
En español quiero q calibración llevan las bujías mi troca es igual que ésa
.40
I don't think you could have made a better video
I truly appreciate it thank you 🙏
Where is number one
www.google.com/gasearch?q=dodge%20dakota%203.9%20v6%20firing%20order&tbm=&source=sh/x/gs/m2/5#vhid=H7zFaDZnQx-urM&vssid=l