Where can I get the solder you're using? ;) Great vid, I love your presentation style. It really works and contrasts well with the junk that's already out there. (I don't need stupidly loud music, intro clips, outro clips, catchphrases, and overly boisterous presentation...just show the meat of the subject. I love that you do just that.)
Really really appreciate that you like the presentation - I have tried the fancy intro/outro stuff, and it just doesn't work for me. ha! What you see is what it is over here in the copper shop. :) The solder is from Johnson Manufacturing - details for what number solder I order, and the link to find the info itself, is in the video description! :) Thank you again for your lovely comment!
@@kenboydart "SMASH THAT LIKE BUTTON! I'M GIVING AWAY A CAR IF THIS VIDEO GETS 20 THOUSAND LIKES IN FOURTEEN MINUTES DUDES!" I much prefer this quieter and calmer presentation, good to sit back ,learn, and sip a cup of coffee without worry something loud is going to make you flinch and scalp yourself.
I’ve made a few pots and pans, but would like to add beads, rolled edges, and other features. I know you have some historical bead rollers, etc., and they occasionally come up on eBay. But there are also modern ones. Do you have a recommendation for features, brands, or types that would do many of the common things you do for cookware? I know the older ones are much sturdier, but they also appear to usually be single function so you have to get several? Some modern ones have deep throat’s, interchangable rollers and dies, etc.
Yes - I do use a beading machine for the beading...rolled edges are done using a combination of turning machine, a hammer and a wiring machine (the only tool I know that can turn a rolled edge and not have it crush without the wire under it is a CNC machine that is the size of a small car...). I think Pexto might have some newer combination machines with those deeper throats and exchangeable interfaces for different uses. I know Bob (the tinsmith I apprenticed under) has a few Chinese made he really likes, but none of them are multi-use, so I can't speak to that in particular. Sorry I can't be super helpful on this!
I hope you're a school teacher somewhere. You would be great in a Jr. HS Class. I first learned to work in metal in my HS Art/Crafts, which had a ceramic studio and lost wax casting equp. back when gold was $32. an oz. Have you ever worked in silver or brass? Have you ever chased a bell/cup out of a flat piece of metal?
Actually, I am not a teacher, but that is a lovely compliment! Sometimes I do some metalwork merit badge clinics with local Scout troops, and I do teach some hands-on workshops to adults a few times a year. I would have loved to have a chance to work with the lost-wax process more than the bit of it in high school art class, where we just made jewelry. So yes, I did work with silver then (making rings using lost wax), and I do some work in brass on occasion, and yes, I have raised (or chased) a bowl and shallow cups, but nothing as dramatic as a bell or goblet - I think that requires a particular stake I haven't found yet.
@@housecopper Well you have the sweetest delivery and you teach so well. The 3rd arm torch holding, ahhh lol I sent you a couple pics, one of a brass challice I did for Renn Fair Days 30 years ago, and my then Great Dane/Rotty I cast bronze and silver 1"x1" spikes for his collar. I also chased copper to make a model of my 32' Chevy so the fenders were opposites of each other. Not to mention the metal work resoring a now 91 year old truck. Had to fab some parts. Oh yea, copper pennies, pre-73? Were solid copper. I dap them out and solder 2 face to face to make copper beads of buttons. Lots of Buffalo Head nickle bottons. As well as lots of different European countries currency before it went Euros. English 1 Pound coins I put on my leather vest.
What is the best way to remove solder? I was trying to solder a seam that had previously been done but started leaking. In the process I get solder all over the side, and I want to remove it.
I might add, its best to clean the flux just after finishing as it wants to stay their if you dont, at least thats my experience ! BTW, I like your UMMM .......
Yes! Depending on the flux, it can get really sticky (using pine resin is the worst - only rubbing alcohol removes that!) and can even etch the tin if left on too long. (and thanks, I guess I do say "um" a lot! Can't win sometimes, though lol!)
I came here to learn something. She is soldering a cup with LEAD, Yikes! WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. This is a short video so it is not explained. Solder used on electronic components and THIS solder are NOT the same. The useful links provided explain it. So Yeah, I learned something here for sure. Love the channel.
WOAH - As I show in my links, I only use FOOD GRADE SILVER BASED TIN SOLDER. I am NOT soldering the cup with lead! Holy cats! I have NEVER used lead, and yes, it is wrong to use. Anyway - thank you for loving the channel. :)
Hi Sara, you have made my life easier and more fun, you and others have expanded my awareness and Artwork so I wish to share something I thing may help you, that what Blanksmas do. Rick Bischof lives in Joliet Montana and builds Beautiful Hores drawn Carriage Lamps out of Sheetmetal's, Copper, Bras Tin, May I suggest you watch the Luminary Shoppe Videos for Tools and technique ideas on soldering. Techniques that might make your life easier and you wonderful Copper more fun! Have a wonderful Day
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Thats some of the best third arm multi-tasking I've seen in a while. Fantastic!🙂
Why thank you kindly, sir! I appreciate it!
Where can I get the solder you're using? ;)
Great vid, I love your presentation style. It really works and contrasts well with the junk that's already out there. (I don't need stupidly loud music, intro clips, outro clips, catchphrases, and overly boisterous presentation...just show the meat of the subject. I love that you do just that.)
ditto
Yay!
Really really appreciate that you like the presentation - I have tried the fancy intro/outro stuff, and it just doesn't work for me. ha! What you see is what it is over here in the copper shop. :)
The solder is from Johnson Manufacturing - details for what number solder I order, and the link to find the info itself, is in the video description! :) Thank you again for your lovely comment!
Boy do I second that ! I also appreciate the lack of loud and inappropriate music !
@@kenboydart "SMASH THAT LIKE BUTTON! I'M GIVING AWAY A CAR IF THIS VIDEO GETS 20 THOUSAND LIKES IN FOURTEEN MINUTES DUDES!"
I much prefer this quieter and calmer presentation, good to sit back ,learn, and sip a cup of coffee without worry something loud is going to make you flinch and scalp yourself.
I’ve made a few pots and pans, but would like to add beads, rolled edges, and other features. I know you have some historical bead rollers, etc., and they occasionally come up on eBay. But there are also modern ones. Do you have a recommendation for features, brands, or types that would do many of the common things you do for cookware? I know the older ones are much sturdier, but they also appear to usually be single function so you have to get several? Some modern ones have deep throat’s, interchangable rollers and dies, etc.
Yes - I do use a beading machine for the beading...rolled edges are done using a combination of turning machine, a hammer and a wiring machine (the only tool I know that can turn a rolled edge and not have it crush without the wire under it is a CNC machine that is the size of a small car...). I think Pexto might have some newer combination machines with those deeper throats and exchangeable interfaces for different uses. I know Bob (the tinsmith I apprenticed under) has a few Chinese made he really likes, but none of them are multi-use, so I can't speak to that in particular. Sorry I can't be super helpful on this!
Awesome video!
Thanks Tom! I'm thrilled you thought it was so good!!!
I hope you're a school teacher somewhere. You would be great in a Jr. HS Class. I first learned to work in metal in my HS Art/Crafts, which had a ceramic studio and lost wax casting equp. back when gold was $32. an oz.
Have you ever worked in silver or brass? Have you ever chased a bell/cup out of a flat piece of metal?
Actually, I am not a teacher, but that is a lovely compliment! Sometimes I do some metalwork merit badge clinics with local Scout troops, and I do teach some hands-on workshops to adults a few times a year. I would have loved to have a chance to work with the lost-wax process more than the bit of it in high school art class, where we just made jewelry. So yes, I did work with silver then (making rings using lost wax), and I do some work in brass on occasion, and yes, I have raised (or chased) a bowl and shallow cups, but nothing as dramatic as a bell or goblet - I think that requires a particular stake I haven't found yet.
@@housecopper Well you have the sweetest delivery and you teach so well. The 3rd arm torch holding, ahhh lol
I sent you a couple pics, one of a brass challice I did for Renn Fair Days 30 years ago, and my then Great Dane/Rotty I cast bronze and silver 1"x1" spikes for his collar.
I also chased copper to make a model of my 32' Chevy so the fenders were opposites of each other. Not to mention the metal work resoring a now 91 year old truck.
Had to fab some parts.
Oh yea, copper pennies, pre-73? Were solid copper. I dap them out and solder 2 face to face to make copper beads of buttons. Lots of Buffalo Head nickle bottons. As well as lots of different European countries currency before it went Euros.
English 1 Pound coins I put on my leather vest.
What is the best way to remove solder? I was trying to solder a seam that had previously been done but started leaking. In the process I get solder all over the side, and I want to remove it.
Mechanical removal will be your friend - grind off the old and start fresh.
I might add, its best to clean the flux just after finishing as it wants to stay their if you dont, at least thats my experience ! BTW, I like your UMMM .......
Yes! Depending on the flux, it can get really sticky (using pine resin is the worst - only rubbing alcohol removes that!) and can even etch the tin if left on too long. (and thanks, I guess I do say "um" a lot! Can't win sometimes, though lol!)
What solder do you use that is food safe? I'm a welder who last soldered with lead.
Your answer is in the video description with a link.
I came here to learn something. She is soldering a cup with LEAD, Yikes! WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. This is a short video so it is not explained.
Solder used on electronic components and THIS solder are NOT the same. The useful links provided explain it. So Yeah, I learned something here
for sure. Love the channel.
WOAH - As I show in my links, I only use FOOD GRADE SILVER BASED TIN SOLDER.
I am NOT soldering the cup with lead! Holy cats! I have NEVER used lead, and yes, it is wrong to use.
Anyway - thank you for loving the channel. :)
Hi Sara, you have made my life easier and more fun, you and others have expanded my awareness and Artwork so I wish to share something I thing may help you, that what Blanksmas do. Rick Bischof lives in Joliet Montana and builds Beautiful Hores drawn Carriage Lamps out of Sheetmetal's, Copper, Bras Tin, May I suggest you watch the Luminary Shoppe Videos for Tools and technique ideas on soldering. Techniques that might make your life easier and you wonderful Copper more fun! Have a wonderful Day
Thanks for sharing!!
you say umm at the start of every sentence
Whoops! ummm...thanks for the constructive criticism. :) I guess I'm just a human over here, flaws and all. :) :)
I can't live long enough to get through the beginning of your video sorry
Everybody loves hearing whining