Please can you offer a little clarity by showing method of determinaton of maximum allowable tension. i.e. how to prevent over-tightening of nut over several retensioning events.
Can you give an opinion on the best seatpost, specifically the clamp, for the Brooks saddle. There are too many to choose from. I just bought a new one and I'm not happy with the seatpost clamping system I currently have.
Me too. Pony design it just spins so it’s impossible to tighten. Also to note is the included spanner is too large to fit correctly inside the area surrounding the nut. Really poor for a £150 saddle.
Do you mean from a comfort or mechanical point of view? Models such as the B33, B135 and B190 offer excellent comfort, but are recommended for a certain type of riding, mostly in upright position.
@@brooksengland mechanical point of view in upright position. i seen one type of seat with the front spring that looks like the back springs and the other type has a loop style spring in the front. which one of these type of springs work best?
Hey guys, what torque should I ideally apply (in Nm), fastening the rails on a B17 Narrow? My seatpost shows 12 Nm as the max value, but when fastened mine with 11 Nm it has slightly deformed the contact points of the rails.
We find to be rather impossible for you to deform the steel rail of the B17 Narrow because it isn't a vacuum tube. Unless you're a strongman. Please write a a private message on our social media if you might find helpful to share a picture. Thanks
Obviously, there's no precise rule to follow, because the aging process of each leather saddle is different and it changes according to the frequency of use. Not surprisingly, the first thing we suggest to do is an inspection of the saddle. It's necessary to understand whether the leather is too soft or saggy before tensioning the saddle. Doing this operation, it can be felt by touch whether the elasticity of the saddle has been correctly restored.
@@brooksengland Ok, but there must be a some kind of rule of thumb. In what condition that the tightening is too much that can break the bolt? My bolt is not perpendicular against the ring, and I am uncertain if it will cause any damages to the bolt. In addition, I think people including bike repair stores, at least 3 that I talked to, don't know how to maintain and repair brooks saddle. The local distributor even applied excessive poofile on my new aged Brooks saddle, turned it into a normal saddle. Brooks shall give some clear instructions so that those "bike professional" don't ruin others saddle.
No official videos here show how to tension a brooks saddle. There are no good videos on TH-cam, either. Of course, it was not too difficulty to understand once I took off the saddle. But for 2 years, I had no idea how the tension up work before unmount the saddle.
No hard and fast rule for setting the tension. You really have to go by feel, does it feel right on your butt. A clue to slack tension is if the saddle feels too springy over minor bumps then again a little bit of give is desirable. Remember leather is the hide/skin of cattle and is always a little different, then the cutting process tries to be as efficient as possible while also avoiding imperfections in the leather, even then one saddle may be harder or softer than another. Out of the whole leather hide, only about 1/3 is suitable for making Brooks saddles, the remainder is typically too soft, spongy or lacks sufficient strength to not over stretch in tension.
"... be sure, that it does not turn as you are turning the nut". Fine. But what, if it does?? Heck, it always does and Brooks didn't find a way to avoid this in hundred years?
WHY does a $150+ saddle come with a key piece of its functionality made from such cheap materials so that it does not easily WORK - The bolt keeps moving - Its taken over an hour and my saddle still doesn't function. You've had over 100 years to design a functional bolt that is actually easy to control - instead its cheap shit!!
When the tension pin turns together with the nut, it usually means that the leather top hasn't been adjusted for a long time and the head of the tension pin is no longer engaged against the nose of the saddle. To be able to tension the saddle, you'll need to hold the pin still in a pair of pliers and turn the nut at the same time. Once a good grade of tension is restored, the pin will lock again in the saddle nose and you'll be able to turn the nut easily. Despite what you may believe, this tensioning system has always worked and will keep on doing so. Please follow our instructions. One last tip for correct saddle tension: turn the nut until the leather top is level again. Generally speaking, the tension is fine when the flex doesn't exceed 5mm, if you press the top with your hand.
ordered one recently, on French Amazon. -Very disappointed the quality I got, not expected from Brooks. Swallow made in Italy, leather work made by someone who have hands growing straight from his bottom part of the body, or was training to cut leather and polish edges. Rivets all skew... !!! How Brooks allow this quality saddle even to pass??? for a price almost 200$, joking. I will order a new one, hoping to get a properly made leather saddle. If no, that's a disaster for the name.
Since we don't have the chance to see the product you describe, we can't comment on it. The only thing we can say for sure is that the Swallow is made in Birmingham (UK) like any of our leather saddles. We'd also like to remind you that we offer a 10-year warranty extension on all leather saddle models.
@@brooksengland thank you for your reply. I ordered another Swallow, this time straight from Brooks site, saddle came from Italy, "Selle Royale" too, and it was visibly marked made in Italy. Quality was way better than one I got from Amazon. Beautiful piece - but still really amateur cut edges, not accurately polished - sent back and I'm really disappointed with my unexpected experience - I was planing this purchase for two years. guess what I can think now... Still nice looking piece on the photo, for dreamers.
Please can you offer a little clarity by showing method of determinaton of maximum allowable tension. i.e. how to prevent over-tightening of nut over several retensioning events.
How to maintain proper brooks saddle tension:
1. Check if the tension is bad
2. Set to the correct tension
That concludes the lesson.
Why do your tension bolts no longer lock in place? Adjusting the nut turns the whole bolt which does not do anything.
Same issue. Second saddle with same issue. I use needle nose pliers to try and hold it in place. Seems like a big flaw
It happened to me when the threads on the bolt were stripped by, what I am assuming is, the nut being cross threaded.
Can you give an opinion on the best seatpost, specifically the clamp, for the Brooks saddle. There are too many to choose from. I just bought a new one and I'm not happy with the seatpost clamping system I currently have.
Nice voice. How many years did it take you to get this sound?
Soooo what happens when it does turn in the nose of the saddle?
Means it's broken, common problem. I spot welded mine after the third time that happened!
@@Hdtjdjbszh Thank you for taking the time to reply, since Brooks didn't feel the need to. 👍🏻
@@Hdtjdjbszhmine does this on a brand new saddle. So shat.
Well, I got one that won’t lock in the nose piece. Lucky me...! 🙄 Thx for your excellent video!!!
Me too. Pony design it just spins so it’s impossible to tighten. Also to note is the included spanner is too large to fit correctly inside the area surrounding the nut. Really poor for a £150 saddle.
do the 3 spring saddles work good with the front loop spring?
Do you mean from a comfort or mechanical point of view? Models such as the B33, B135 and B190 offer excellent comfort, but are recommended for a certain type of riding, mostly in upright position.
@@brooksengland mechanical point of view in upright position. i seen one type of seat with the front spring that looks like the back springs and the other type has a loop style spring in the front. which one of these type of springs work best?
Waste of 1m30s.
Hey guys, what torque should I ideally apply (in Nm), fastening the rails on a B17 Narrow?
My seatpost shows 12 Nm as the max value, but when fastened mine with 11 Nm it has slightly deformed the contact points of the rails.
We find to be rather impossible for you to deform the steel rail of the B17 Narrow because it isn't a vacuum tube. Unless you're a strongman. Please write a a private message on our social media if you might find helpful to share a picture. Thanks
Useless instructions, it doesn't say how tight it shall be adjusted
Obviously, there's no precise rule to follow, because the aging process of each leather saddle is different and it changes according to the frequency of use. Not surprisingly, the first thing we suggest to do is an inspection of the saddle. It's necessary to understand whether the leather is too soft or saggy before tensioning the saddle. Doing this operation, it can be felt by touch whether the elasticity of the saddle has been correctly restored.
@@brooksengland Ok, but there must be a some kind of rule of thumb. In what condition that the tightening is too much that can break the bolt? My bolt is not perpendicular against the ring, and I am uncertain if it will cause any damages to the bolt. In addition, I think people including bike repair stores, at least 3 that I talked to, don't know how to maintain and repair brooks saddle. The local distributor even applied excessive poofile on my new aged Brooks saddle, turned it into a normal saddle. Brooks shall give some clear instructions so that those "bike professional" don't ruin others saddle.
No official videos here show how to tension a brooks saddle. There are no good videos on TH-cam, either. Of course, it was not too difficulty to understand once I took off the saddle. But for 2 years, I had no idea how the tension up work before unmount the saddle.
No hard and fast rule for setting the tension. You really have to go by feel, does it feel right on your butt. A clue to slack tension is if the saddle feels too springy over minor bumps then again a little bit of give is desirable. Remember leather is the hide/skin of cattle and is always a little different, then the cutting process tries to be as efficient as possible while also avoiding imperfections in the leather, even then one saddle may be harder or softer than another. Out of the whole leather hide, only about 1/3 is suitable for making Brooks saddles, the remainder is typically too soft, spongy or lacks sufficient strength to not over stretch in tension.
"... be sure, that it does not turn as you are turning the nut". Fine. But what, if it does?? Heck, it always does and Brooks didn't find a way to avoid this in hundred years?
WHY does a $150+ saddle come with a key piece of its functionality made from such cheap materials so that it does not easily WORK - The bolt keeps moving - Its taken over an hour and my saddle still doesn't function. You've had over 100 years to design a functional bolt that is actually easy to control - instead its cheap shit!!
When the tension pin turns together with the nut, it usually means that the leather top hasn't been adjusted for a long time and the head of the tension pin is no longer engaged against the nose of the saddle.
To be able to tension the saddle, you'll need to hold the pin still in a pair of pliers and turn the nut at the same time. Once a good grade of tension is restored, the pin will lock again in the saddle nose and you'll be able to turn the nut easily.
Despite what you may believe, this tensioning system has always worked and will keep on doing so. Please follow our instructions.
One last tip for correct saddle tension: turn the nut until the leather top is level again. Generally speaking, the tension is fine when the flex doesn't exceed 5mm, if you press the top with your hand.
@@brooksengland Good reply especially the last sentence where you state the flex should not exceed 5mm, just what viewers needed to know.
Please switch your bolts to metric 😩
ordered one recently, on French Amazon. -Very disappointed the quality I got, not expected from Brooks. Swallow made in Italy, leather work made by someone who have hands growing straight from his bottom part of the body, or was training to cut leather and polish edges. Rivets all skew... !!! How Brooks allow this quality saddle even to pass??? for a price almost 200$, joking. I will order a new one, hoping to get a properly made leather saddle. If no, that's a disaster for the name.
Since we don't have the chance to see the product you describe, we can't comment on it. The only thing we can say for sure is that the Swallow is made in Birmingham (UK) like any of our leather saddles. We'd also like to remind you that we offer a 10-year warranty extension on all leather saddle models.
@@brooksengland thank you for your reply. I ordered another Swallow, this time straight from Brooks site, saddle came from Italy, "Selle Royale" too, and it was visibly marked made in Italy. Quality was way better than one I got from Amazon. Beautiful piece - but still really amateur cut edges, not accurately polished - sent back and I'm really disappointed with my unexpected experience - I was planing this purchase for two years. guess what I can think now... Still nice looking piece on the photo, for dreamers.