Gasoline in your OIL?? Mechanical Fuel Pumps: Can a Failing One Do It ???
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- lets dissect a mechanical fuel pump & take a look!!!
I have run this fuel pump in my f100 for over 12,000 miles without issues now - here's the link: amzn.to/2Uwz8tT
i like to have a mechanical fuel pump eccentric & timing cover, but anymore only as a backup to an electric pump.
Biggest cause to a mechanical pump(and carburetor)failure is ethanol fuel. Ethanol fuel reeks havoc on the rubber parts. Stick with non ethanol and you’ll be good. Not saying a mechanical pump won’t fail, just that they will fail a lot sooner with ethanol fuel.
i have not seen non ethanol fuel in YEARS!
Several decades ago, I had an old ford LTD wagon (351w/C6). The fuel economy was horrid when I first got it (Like 4 mpg). One day I finally noticed the smell of raw fuel - the pump was spraying fuel everywhere, kind of like you described. Fuel economy quadrupled with the new pump. The next economy improvement came from sealing the leaking fuel tank.
kstricl yep I just fixed my 77 F250 with a 400, puking gas everywhere
My 82 225 Dodge lost it's fuel pump and leaked externally some, but I never noticed any in the oil.
You could drill a drain hole in the bottom of the housing, unless oil splashes out, in which case you could rig some kind of container to catch a little splash. I think that's what the Dodge has, just a pressure release hole in a position to drain fuel better.
Nice job on covering fuel pumps. Back in the day my Dad taught me to check oil on a regular basis. Every time you gassed up check the oil, and in between if you had an extended drive. We were not just checking for low oil. It was also for anything out of the ordinary like coolant or gas. A habit that has served me well when the mechanical pump decides to go.
This plagued me for months on my Torino. After three posts on facebook someone said It might be my fuel pump. Quick changed resolved it, though my engine is now super clean inside!
The original manual fuel pump on my jeep 258 inline six had 170,000 miles on it. It was still working fine, however I swapped it out with a new one just for piece of mind. I keep the original in the back of the jeep just in case. As for comparison the OEM Motorcraft electric fuel pump on my 00 expedition lasted for 150,000 miles before it gave up and I still have the original OEM Motorcraft electic fuel pump in my 04 explorer at 125,000 miles. One thing I learned with the expedition fuel pump is to go with another OEM Ford pump! After having to replace two of the crappy Airtex pumps from Autozone I wasn't to happy.
Thanks for the trip back to auto shop 101 back in the mid 60s. I've seen to forgot a lot about the older cars.
I bought a dodge d200 last registered 18 yrs ago. Yes truck was dumping gas into oil. I ran it with black smoke coming out. Carbwas dirty also. Thx for video!
I love meddling with the classic cars,its fun
Great advice on the mechanical fuel pump. They can be annoying. Galaxie sounds great.
I highly recommend electric fuel pumps, yes they sometimes have their issues, but after losing a Ford van due to cams going flat from pump diluting oil, I'm never taking that chance again. My '81 cj5 used to take a lot of cranking after it had sat for a while- now I just let the elecrtic pump run a bit and it fires right up!
Another clear and helpful video. I've never actually seen the inside of a fuel pump before. Thanks for the great content, as always.
Had that happen on an old four cylinder ford. Filled two lanes of the street with smoke right in the city center. A couple of cops drove past me laughing their heads of. That was 40 years ago, the cops nowdays would ping you.
I think your missing another thing that causes the pumps to go bad... Its the ethonol in the new gas. Yep that corn additive eats rubber. So older cars with rubber gas lines and rubber pieces in the fuel system end up having to replace them every few years.. I am guessing that the corn gas they sell helped your pump faillure.
I needed a mechanical fuel pump for my latest project. My local auto parts told me that the pumps they get these days are Chinese and don't last. I bought a Holley but had to get a fuel pressure regulator also as it was pumping 9-1/2 psi at idle.
Working great now.
I never heard of or thought of that?! It makes alot of sence & is now somthing I will be paying attention to
Thank you! I saw fuel on top of my loping at idle engine's pump and I'm getting a replacement. But your explanation of things taught me a lot. You did it again! Happiness!
I learned this the hard way when I was a teen, I had a '68 galaxy 390ci 4bbl 4speed and one friday night noticed my fuel pump spraying fuel out that vent so I stuck a .22 cal shell casing in it and went about hot rodding the weekend away, come monday on my way to school the motor seized at high speeds locking the trans and I rolled it about 7 times. My dad was the one to see the shell casing after the wreck and told me just what you are saying now. I totaled a sweet now rare '68 390HO 4 speed galaxy for the price of a fuel pump.
Back in the day (when I was young and stupid) I always kept a few spent .22 cal shell casings in my old Ford truck to replace blown fuses in an emergency (perfect fit) fortunately I never had a bad problem after doing that, but I know now that it was probably not the smartest thing to be doing?
I had it happen to me. Lost compression with thinned out oil. Oil smelled of gas.
next epicode: how to hide 'shine under the rear seat of your mid-60s ford.
love the dog.
Had that happen a few times. Twice on a lawn mower, and once on a truck. The lawn mower was a stuck float, and my truck was a fuel pump. It can also be blow by.
I've had that happen years ago on old FE's and Cleveland engines.
Hi I'm a mechanic in New Zealand. Usually what happens the diaphram rots and cracks and stops working which limits the amount of fuel that gets into the motor. 90% of it will come out of the hole in the side. You'll smell the gas too.
I have run this fuel pump in my f100 for over 12,000 miles without issues now - here's the link: amzn.to/2Uwz8tT
i like to have a mechanical fuel pump eccentric & timing cover, but anymore only as a backup to an electric pump.
I love your channel, very good content!
ThunderHead289 do you have a video showing how to install the mechanical fuel pump in conjunction with the electric fuel pump, return line etc?
You're not going to clean that car, are ya.
Gotta love ethanol gas
I just had a fuel pump do this on my brand new blueprint crate engine. I started getting a little bit of lifter noise when it was cold the last time I started it so I shut it off. When it warmed up it would stop. I didn't run it again after that, so I may have caught it in time I don't know. I have a new fuel pump and fresh oil and filter to put into it. Now I am seriously considering an electric fuel pump. I hate them because they're noisy as hell usually on a unibody car, but it's better than the alternative of having gas in the oil. The fuel pump I used was on my previous engine and was not having any trouble like that at all. It was only off of the car for 3 months so it does not have to sit even two or three years to go bad.
Love your old galaxie I have a 64 fastback with a 390 auto
HEY! PUT MY GALAXIE BACK! hahaha! Love that car, Brother. Miss mine A LOT!
I LOVE that Galaxy... great information on the video, thanks.
Always dig the videos, Luke! You always give me ideas for my own jobs. Keep on keepin' on!
My dad always told me, If i was looking to buy an older car, check the oil level- take it for a test drive- then check it again and try to light it with a lighter. If it ran okay and the oil burned, it had a bad diaphragm in the fuel pump. If it ran like crap and the oil burned, the carb was dumping fuel.
Yep, I blew a moroso valve cover off of a '72 351w with a large fireball, due to the pump leaking into the crankcase.
Good video buddy..I had that problem to happen before on a 75 Ford truck I didn't catch it in time and I started loosing oil pressure and I never regained oil pressure it hurt the bearings
In 82, my sisters 78 Cougar 302 engine, caught on fire as she was driving home. We never found out what caused it. In 87, I had a 79 Thunderbird with a 302. Ironically, I drove to my sisters house and smelled gas. I opened the hood and gas was squirting out of the vent of the pump directly onto the hot exhaust manifold. Mystery solved on her Cougar.
MB BAR RANCH
Hell, with my 2017 Honda Accord the DGI feature fills the oil up by a whole quart in six or seven months.
Pushes it right past the rings.
Happened to my Torino, lucky I smelled it before any permanent damage.
It's never happened to me, great lesson and thank you for sharing the info.
Looks and sounds great.
I had a 82 f150 mud truck with the 300 six. The guy I bought it from had both a electric fuel pump and the stock fuel pump on the block hooked up. Why he was running 2 fuel pumps I don't know. Anyway I was heading home from work one day and could barely step on the gas to go. Thankfully I made it the 20 miles home and just used my other truck till my next day off. Got to thinking at work it could be the manual fuel pump shot. My next day off I bypass the manual fuel pump and just used the electric one. Well that worked. I checked the oil and could smell gas in the oil. I didn't take apart the manual fuel pump nor did I take it off the truck as I didn't have anything to cover the hole. Anyway wondering if that is what went on with my truck. Oh my girlfriend at the time couldn't drive stick shift so I left her my GMC Sonoma that was automatic the reason I was driving my mud truck to work. Sucked on gas also I got 160 miles to a tank. Don't help having a t-18 4 speed with 4.11 gears, lockers, 3 inch lift and 35s on it. Yes believe it or not that old 300 six did alright pushing the old girl. Man I miss that truck.
Love that galaxie man
Good info, Thunderface!
Cool car!
I have seen air cooled VW engines filled up with fuel cause of this. They run like crap when the fumes get through the crank vent into the carb.
Yep. Happened to me with my '62 Bug in '66 or '67. Wasn't the fuel pump it was a cracked carb separator.
Why would anyone unlike this? What a Scrooge McDuck.
trolls, what else
Happened to a 400 small block I had, washed the bearings out and lost oil pressure
I had that failure on a Classic Mini Cooper...
So if I understand this correctly, if you get water into that hole for venting the pressure of the pump then you'll get that water into your engine. That's no good, but I do the same thing you do, I block it off and put an electric fuel pump.
I had a mechanical fail on my 74 El Camino, it just quit working. Never thought of fuel spray into the block though.
i guess its just one more reason to block off that old mechanical pump and plumb in an electric one.
I had that happen to me on a 460. Total ruined it.
After watching your video on ignition timing I started reading up on it. I found several articles including one by a General Motors engineer who all say that manifold vacuum is the way to go. They all say that ported vacuum at idle will cause your engine to run to hot at idle. What would you say about that? I recently bought an old jeep yj with a carbureted 4.2 liter 258ci inline six. It has manifold vacuum as did my 302 mustang's from the 82-85. The GM tech says that ported vacuum was only for emissions purposes and the vehicles performance really suffered do to it. Not saying either of you are right or wrong, I'd just like to hear more about it.
The only difference between manifold and ported is that ported doesn’t add anything at idle.
I prefer to run more mechanical advance instead - which I can write you a book as to why. This is not switching from manifold to ported alone - now your timing is later, and if nothing changes, I’d agree with the GM engineer. NOW, by advancing mechanical when you hit the throttle you won’t lose any timing - engines actually respond better with a quick jump in timing when you crack the throttle - ported with more initial provides this.
On manifold as soon as you drop below the vacuum advance canister vacuum threshold you lose that 8-15 degrees being added in.
In order to have a proper idle on manifold, you have to have a very lazy initial mechanical setting.
Especially with a aftermarket distributor - they only provide 15-25 degrees of advance, so starting at 8 degrees or 6 degrees mechanical leaves you with a junk total timing number - not to mention less than optimal timing throughout the curve.
My email is lfinley289@gmail.com - I’d be happy to answer further questions there if this didn’t make sense.
I had a brand new fuel pump fail on me and ruin my engine. I purchased the fuel pump from advance auto parts and they wouldn't replace my engine because it was a replacement engine. This is what happens when they out source their parts from China and Mexico. Needless to say I had to replace the engine with my own money and advance auto parts would only replace the fuel pump. What a bunch of BS!!!!!!!!!!
I about had this happen to me - I got lucky
@@ThunderHead289 That's great you saved a lot of money.👍
Taking it a step further do you think today's ethanol based gas is detrimental to the diaphragm like it is to rubber fuel line?
It is - I must have cut the pet out where I mentioned that - the alcohol drys things out
Glad to see you get the ol girl running!!! Sounds great!! Are you off work with the Covid-19 shut downs.? More video time!!
Be safe Luke!
Unfortunately to some degree no!
If only I could have a few weeks off unpaid and still be employed!
Yeah
Lost an engine in a 78 powerwagon due to previous owner running ethanol running carb and fuel pump dumping fuel into the oil and being ran like that for years
Great, I just had that happen to me
I had oil coming out of the vacuum discharge
What do you have for an exhaust on the galaxy? Ir sounds amazing.
Top of the morning to ya Luke
Oi, it’s 5PM where I’m at here!
This be a post work, office upload!
I have a 1976 c10 custom deluxe stepside with a 250 Inline six. I have terrible gas mileage and gas in my oil. I bought a carb rebuild kit for the Rochester monojet 1bbl carb but have not rebuilt it yet. I am afraid to do it and I am afraid of wasting new oil if the mechanical fuel pump is bad. I want to keep the truck as mechanical as possible. Any tips or perhaps a video on how to test the mechanical fuel pump for a leak into the oil?
Leaky fuel pumps and LTD's have some thing in common .
That's exactly what a marine mechanical pump does when it fails.
I lost an engine I my '76 Ford LTD wagon I didn't catch it in time. I changed pump but it was to late.
In regards to the electric fuel pump, what style of fuel tank do you have?
Factory or one with a sump? Did you mount the pump near the tank?
Just curious what your oil pressure is at idle. I rebuilt my FE and got it running recently. I used a standard pressure oil pump and didn't do any oil restriction mods that other people do. During break in 2000 rpm it was around 50. At idle it's around 25. Also I used an HEI distributor from progression ignition. So far I really like it.
I have 15w-40 in mine with 1 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. Idles hot hot - like right off the interstate hot at 700-800 rpm at 20 PSI.
Around town it’s roughly 28-33ish depending.
Tell me how you like the distributor - I really need to make a video showing all the things a guy can actually optimize with it
@@ThunderHead289
I think the most obvious advantage is tunability. You can make timing changes for any rpm. And do it in real time with the engine running. You can't do that with weights and springs and it's a lot easier. I'm not a rocket surgeon with this stuff but after working with it a bit I'm beginning to understand better how important timing is at all rpms and what the changes do. Also it plays nice with msd atomic TBI.
I had the same problem with my Toyota Crown 1983 .plz suggest me I have also changed to electronic fuel pump. But my car rpm drops suddenly and turn of the car at idle conditions and also gets jerks if it is driving. Not easy to handle such conditions. Plz guide me steps to follow. Rpm become stable when carburettor gets serviced and washed but when I hit 2000 rpm. It's become jerkiing and vibration and rpm drops and turns of engine. Is it my engine is ruined. Plz guide me
Could a bad fuel pressure regulator also put gas in the oil?
Great vid 👍
Could it leak oil in the pump and mix it make my fuel look yellow
So Luke, how does this event affect your attitude about firing up engines on old cars that haven't run in decades? Lots of videos of guys doing this with old pumps in place. The other thing I never see addressed is congealed oil blocking internal passages.
All those are valid concerns - I haven’t had issues with passages being blocked, mind you in many of my revivials once there is hope it might run I check this, but you will also notice that we always have an auxiliary electric fuel pump.
I just don’t think guys even think about it.
@@ThunderHead289 Next time you do an FE, keep in mind the passage in each rocker shaft. Blockage may result in galling and perhaps failure of rocker lifter cam lobe, usually blamed on low zinc oil. Keep up the good work and I'm watching for the supercharger install.
Hi Luke. If I order this fuelpump you linked, do i have to get a regulator as well? I have a former tbi 305, now with holley 650. Still uses the original mechanical fuelpump, im guessing it has higher pressure than the carburetor needs. But the car runs fine. Thanks for the awsome videos. Peppe, Sweden.
How do you block up the hole where the mechanical goes. Does someone make a plate?
Google “mechanical pump block off plate - ford (engine)”
Completely unrelated to a failed fuel pump but on the topic of gas in the oil, my sister had a car for about 15 years and never changed the air filter one single time. The filter was completely clogged and it was running so rich that it was dumping gas past the rings. My dad and I dumped about 3 gallons of basically black gasoline out of the oil pan...
On the topic of oil, my old 302 that I had just rebuilt loses it pretty randomly. I never notice it dripping so it has to be burning, is there anywhere besides the valve seals and the oil rings where it could be getting somewhere it shouldn't? Sometimes I'll go for several weeks and never lose a drop, but other times I'll lose two to 3 quart per tank of gas. I had the heads redone two years ago and figured they were fine to throw back on the rebuilt shortblock, I'm guessing the valve seals must have gone bad already.
Faulty PCV valve is actually my first guess 👍
If you remove it just to see, you will have to turn your mixture screws in roughly a turn (3/4-ish turn out from seated).
@@ThunderHead289 Like disconnect it from the carb and leave it open, and then adjust the mixture screws to compensate for the vacuum leak that will create? Or should I plug the nipple on the carb with something while I run without the PCV for a while?
Plug the nipple on the carb of course - the mix screws will be farther out to compensate for the PCV, you will have to lean them up once pcv is removed.
Just to see if that’s your issue 👍
@@ThunderHead289 I'll give that a go for a while then. I love my galaxie but it's nothing but trouble. Never leaves me stranded, always keeps on runnin but little things always pop up. It constantly overheats on me if the ambient temp gets above 40 degrees, especially at higher speeds. I've played with the timing and all that and the mixture and that never fixes it, not to mention pretty piss poor fuel mileage, on bad days itll hit 8mpg lol. It needs a bigger radiator I'm sure, I got one from what I believe to be a 390 or a 429 vehicle to throw in but that needs custom hoses to plumb up.
Could this happen on a 12 valve cummins?
My 71 Maverick sits a lot and has a mechanical fuel pump. So my question is, do you use a relay to power the electric pump on your truck ? Or is it direct wired ?
Run by a relay with ignition as trigger - there are actually better ways of doing it including an inline oil pressure switch and an inertia switch. But you know - “we die like men” mentality over here
@@ThunderHead289
What Luke is driving at here is wiring the pump so it turns off when there's no oil pressure so it can't run in the event of a wreck. If you don't the pump will continue to pump fuel all over a hot engine.
Link to the fuel pump?
Check the top comment 👍
Yes
Are u using non ethanol gas?
Gasahol
Do sbc pumps have the same problem?
They are all created equal unfortunately
What's wrong with those Mercedes in the background?
The beetle?
No they are outside.
I think that is w210 and w124
have to ask, is Mook your sister?
Could I have a bad check valve on my fuel pump? I have a 83 f150 with a 351w and i notice that the fuel will back flow after about 24 hours of sitting. I notice the fuel filter 2 feet before the carb is dry. When I start truck it always takes a second for the mechanical pump to get fuel back up to carb.
mechanical fuel pump was replaced at least 5 or 6 years ago. Truck sits a lot. should i replace fuel pump? it seems to pump just fine, it just back flows after sitting for a bit.
Wow im really early
Fuel pump is bad. Not the carb.
I got a 1950 Ford f1 and the base of the acorn lugnuts broke off and I can't grab it but the rest of the stud is there. What do I do?
grind off the excess & drill out the center - replace with new stud. annoying, but it will get it done.
@@ThunderHead289 what if I don't want to ruin the rim and it's out side like 100 yards from ing house and I don't have a portable grinder
Be really good with just a drill -
I hate to suggest this, but maybe a propane torch and one of those “grab all” sockets - I’d get what’s left of the lug really hot before I even tried
@@ThunderHead289 there's nothing to grab it's the tapered end of a acorn out nut. I'll figure it out word case scenario I brake it off
I've used a big nut splitter on lug nuts in the past with good success
Stud
Concerning mechanical fuel pumps...I was a student in a vocational auto mechanic program in 1989, and on one particular day a beat-to-death 1955 Chevy 4-door was brought in backwards on the back of a tow truck. The steering wheel was tied to the door to keep it from rotating...and I'll explain why in a moment.
The driver of the tow truck was curious if the guy in charge of the automotive program was interested in a free car for students to work on, and the instructor replied back, "if it were 10 or 20 years newer, perhaps, but there's nothing on this car that we really need, and I also don't have any free space for it."
I was looking at the car while the two men were talking, and noticed that the hood was ballooned out, like a Jiffy Pop popcorn container that was done cooking and ready to pop open.
The edges of the hood were charred, and there were two distinct holes in the skin of the hood, where two objects had been blown through the hood. The fenders also appeared to be ballooned out slightly.
The tow truck driver walked towards me, and I asked him what happened to the car.
"Well, the fuel pump was pouring gas into the engine, and the guy that owned this car was too cheap to fix it. He and five other guys were driving around up in the hills with the thing, doing some rabbit hunting, three of them were in the front seat, three in the back. Well, something happened, it backfired, something, and then there was a huge 'boom' from the front of the car."
He lifted what was left of the hood.
Someone had swapped in either a 265 or 283 V8, and the engine didn't have valve covers, or much of an oil pan on it. Everything under the hood that wasn't metal was pretty much incinerated.
The oil filler cap on the fill tube was gone, the dipstick as well. It appears that the explosion took off the valve covers (they were cheap chrome units, or at least the stubs around the bolts looked that way), and did something to the oil pan.
"We think that the filler cap and the dipstick went through the hood."
The guy in the passenger-side front seat was the only one injured, as the guy in the middle of that seat was quite a bit faster while trying to escape from the exploding '55 and broke the pass-side guy's left arm on his way out of the car.
Have you seen Cletus McFarland 65 diesel Galaxy
I couldn’t care less about a person as I do that shmuck