He y. .great video..im restoring a ford e83w and bought a used one but fuel is too much! How can I control fuel volume? Is that the small Spring Who control it? I've tried to solve it with two spacer between fuel pump and gasket instead of one but it Was not so Good...because fuel is not enought....tranks for all this info.
....I've been driving my TR3A for 50 years and have rebuilt the fuel pump a few times (especially after unleaded gas)....This time I've found the threads getting a little 'soft' .....Can you tell me what size the screws are and what size heli-coils to use to make a permanent repair (I'd rather not go to larger screws)......The pump is an original AC,.....I have other pumps but I don't know the brand, and they seem 'cheap' by comparison....I've always carried a spare pump so I'm never stranded anywhere (cheap insurance)......I appreciate your help.....Great video .....
@@thenandnowautomotive547 ...Thank you very much....I'm laid up right now, but once I'm well again (I'm 73) I'll get right to it.....That's a big help having that information.....(west coast, Canada)
That is a great video!. I'm having trouble with an AC pump from my Triumph. The pump works fine, but it weeps oil from the hinge pins that hold the arm. Is there an O ring or a seal that is suppose to seal the pins? Thanks Bob
Hi Bob. If you have the room beside the pin, you can put an o-ring in there. What I have done in the past is to mix up a little JB Weld and cover the end of the pin on both sides. The area has to be absolutely clean of any oil though. There was also another fix that I have done, but it requires installing a sleeve in the casting to bring it back to fit the pin better. It sounds like the casting is worn where the pin goes thru.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Hi, Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. I really appreciate your expertise and look forward to watching more of your videos. Best, Bob
What a great video! Thank you. Is this original fuel pump for a 65 triumph spitfire? Im looking to rebuild mine and mine says AC on it but doesnt say 1216 or any other identification number.
I don't have my books in front of me but I'm pretty sure that AC style pump runs from 1962 up into the 70's. Same rebuild procedure though. The numbers were stamped into the casting and something may have happened to the original pump that had the numbers and was replaced with what you have now. You shouldn't have any trouble doing the rebuild, but if you do, leave me a comment, I can get you out of any trouble that you may experience.
I got a 58 Nash Metropolitan. The fuel pump is very similar to this with minor differences. Can i follow this just the same as i am trying to rebuild my pump currently. Just waiting on parts
Yes, your Nash pump should be very close to this one, so you shouldn't have any trouble. If you do run into a problem, please don't hesitate to let me know, you can't run into anything I can't get you through.
Great video. I have rebuilt the pump on my TR250 and replaced filter. The manual primer squirts gas at carbs, but turning engine does not. In your video, you clamp up lever as part of tightening screws at diaphragm, but I did not. Is that a problem. Also, must I remove all air from line from main metal tube from tank up to pump or will vacuum suck. Lastly, can the pump be mated to block and the lever does not catch internal parts or is that automatic by just inserting pump into block and tightening bolts? Thanks. You gave a phone contact which I'll try if this comment section is no longer being monitored. Jim
Jim. By not preloading the diaphragm shouldn't have an effect on the pump's ability to pump fuel. It only has to do with the longevity of the diaphragm, and possibly the fuel pressure. There is no need to prime the lines, that is actually the main purpose of the priming lever. When you install the pump, it should go into the block and stop about a quarter inch from the flange touching the block. At that point, the arm should contact the cam lobe, and from that point, the bolts need to be used to pull it the rest of the way. If your pump went all the way in with no resistance, it sounds like you missed the cam lobe. That would make the pump inoperable. You can loosen the screws and preload the diapgrahm by doing what I did in the video. Let me know how you make out. Thanks Mike
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Thanks, Mike. I rebuilt the pump and corrected preloading the diaphragm, better seating the valves, and testing after assembly. Questions. There was no seal in kit for rod. I cleaned the two that were in place but they seem worn at hole. Does this really seal anything? Blowing in output is blocked until I push in the valve “doors”. but I can not blow through input valve unless using air compressor. Finally, moving primer or lever does it generate sound of any suction like in your video. Is my pump at fault, a bad valve? The weather cleared so I’ll put pump in place but think it will not work. Any ideas? Thanks Jim
@@jimhart3096 Sorry, I didn't see the rest of your question until just now. I would lean towards the problem being the valve. You can test the fuel section while it is not attached to the body of the pump. That would show you which valve is causing the problem.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Hi, I'm in CA near SF. I have been working on fuel system for my one owner TR250 and replaced the filter and rebuilt original pump, AC 1216 Type U, with kit from Moss. Its been in and out of engine too many times and I'm about giving up getting it working. As in your TH-cam, I do not notice/feel suction after rebuild, from either cam lever or priming lever. I "loaded" the diaphragm as in your video and certain that valves are correct. Suspect leak, perhaps at seal around rod (which was not included in the Moss kit). Also, in trying it installed in car with both bolts in place, the unit "moves" during turning of engine, as if the cam is pushing against lever which is not free to rotate enough, apparently. I can not find a replacement available, so I see that you can rebuild pumps. Is this correct? About how long a process? Needless to say, pump was working on running car before I started cleaning up the filter, some connecting hoses near tank and filter. Original fuel problem was kinked rubber hose near tank probably caused by movement of tank during replacement of broken sender in tank. Otherwise, the car runs well with replacement of interior and seats next once I get this fuel problem behind me. Thanks. Your TH-cam video was extremely helpful and the responses to my comments/questions likewise. For all the problems I have encountered and solved on this restoration, the fuel issues have been the most unpleasant. Jim
Hi there! 1958 AMC Rambler Super here,(pt.22) I have two fuel pumps for the rambler I'm trying to get on the road, I'm a beginner and am slowly gaining confidence as I try and work on various jobs on the rambler, I didn't ever drive the car, and the engine was in the trunk when I bought it, and all other Mechanical components were in two plastic totes, so I don't know how the carb linkage, clutch linkage or what condition anything else was in when the rambler last drove,the two fuel pumps I have are different kinds, only one has marking "AC" but nothing else and the other is "Carter", would you know anything about those old mechanical fuel pumps for those types of AMC cars?
Hi Tim. Both Carter and AC supplied pumps for AMC, as you have found. However depending on the engine and model, there are a few more variables. What kind of information are you looking for, I've rebuilt plenty of both kinds over the years. I should be able to help you out.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 I'm just wanting to find out if they work, or need to be taken all apart and cleaned, I saw on one person's video as they were rebuilding a pump if you can suck into the inlet or outlet, but not be able to blow air into the same inlet or outlet that is a indication both valves are operating in good condition. Other then that I feel hesitant to disassemble those pumps because they might be fine. What do you think?
@@timcooper6389 The valves are just one piece to the puzzle. The condition or age of the main diaphragm is something that should be taken into consideration. The condition of the oil seal is another. And finally, the condition or age of the pulsator diaphragm. All of those things play a big part in how long the pump will last. If either of those pumps were freshened up any earlier than the early 1970's, the material will fail rather quickly in the new fuels. I'm not trying to scare you, but please keep those things I mentioned in mind.
@@thenandnowautomotive547hmmmm, ok, since I don't know, rebuilding the pump would be the best thing to do, can you recommend a good rebuild pack to buy? Would you prefer if I made a video about the fuel pumps and let you know when I upload it so you can see what kind they Are and recommend a good rebuild pack?
@@timcooper6389 We can supply you with rebuilding kits for both pumps. We make them here on a daily basis, and are one of the only companies that supply rebuilding kits for Carter pumps. In order to make sure the correct kit is supplied, it's best to have the number that is stamped into the pump mounting flange. There may be other questions, but the person that answers the phone here will know what to ask for. Our phone number is at the end of every video on our channel. Just give us a call and we'll take care of the rest. There should be a video on rebuilding one of those AMC Carter pumps on our channel. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll round it up for you.
I have a 74 TR6 with an AC type U pump, I am going to rebuild the pump with one of your kits, I have installed an aftermarket pump that leaks on the outlet side of the fuel line. I understand there are issues with the compression sleeve and the length of threads that go into the pump. Do you know what size the compression sleeves are, and a way to stop the leak? Also if I modify the sleeves will they still work on my rebuilt pump?
The sleeve should be 1/4". It's a tough call on whether modifying the sleeve will still work on the rebuilt pump. My suggestion would be to change that leaky pump sooner than later. Good luck with the rebuild, follow what I did in the video and you should have no problems.
Thanks for showing removal of the valves, cheers
You're welcome. Sometimes that can be the toughest part of one of these rebuilds.
Fantastic video! All very clearly explained. 😊
Hi, I've referenced this video in my recent upload, and put a link at the end, thanks
Thank you for the recognition Andy. I subscribed to your channel.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Thanks, compliment returned, cheers
this video was very helpful and i was rebuilding a ford100e fuel pump
Glad I was able to help.
Should have watched this BEFORE I disassembled
If you get stuck, don't hesitate to drop me a note.
Thank you. This was very helpfull.
Glad I could help
Very informative 👍
Thank you
He y. .great video..im restoring a ford e83w and bought a used one but fuel is too much! How can I control fuel volume? Is that the small Spring Who control it? I've tried to solve it with two spacer between fuel pump and gasket instead of one but it Was not so Good...because fuel is not enought....tranks for all this info.
....I've been driving my TR3A for 50 years and have rebuilt the fuel pump a few times (especially after unleaded gas)....This time I've found the threads getting a little 'soft' .....Can you tell me what size the screws are and what size heli-coils to use to make a permanent repair (I'd rather not go to larger screws)......The pump is an original AC,.....I have other pumps but I don't know the brand, and they seem 'cheap' by comparison....I've always carried a spare pump so I'm never stranded anywhere (cheap insurance)......I appreciate your help.....Great video .....
John. The 6 screws that hold the pump together are 10-32 machine screws. The Helicoil kit number is 5528-3.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 ...Thank you very much....I'm laid up right now, but once I'm well again (I'm 73) I'll get right to it.....That's a big help having that information.....(west coast, Canada)
@@johnmckenna8989 Glad I could help. Get well soon.
Thanks for the video, same one is on a Nash Metropolitan I am restoring. You are a big help with the check valve replacement.
Again thank you.
That is a great video!. I'm having trouble with an AC pump from my Triumph. The pump works fine, but it weeps oil from the hinge pins that hold the arm. Is there an O ring or a seal that is suppose to seal the pins? Thanks Bob
Hi Bob. If you have the room beside the pin, you can put an o-ring in there. What I have done in the past is to mix up a little JB Weld and cover the end of the pin on both sides. The area has to be absolutely clean of any oil though. There was also another fix that I have done, but it requires installing a sleeve in the casting to bring it back to fit the pin better. It sounds like the casting is worn where the pin goes thru.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Hi, Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. I really appreciate your expertise and look forward to watching more of your videos. Best, Bob
awesome, I have same type of pumps in my 100Kw Perkins generators. One my pumps failed. Where are you located at? I would like to get a kit.
Thank you. We are located in Weymouth, MA. You can call in your order at 781-335-8860. If no answer, just keep trying.
What a great video! Thank you. Is this original fuel pump for a 65 triumph spitfire? Im looking to rebuild mine and mine says AC on it but doesnt say 1216 or any other identification number.
I don't have my books in front of me but I'm pretty sure that AC style pump runs from 1962 up into the 70's. Same rebuild procedure though. The numbers were stamped into the casting and something may have happened to the original pump that had the numbers and was replaced with what you have now. You shouldn't have any trouble doing the rebuild, but if you do, leave me a comment, I can get you out of any trouble that you may experience.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 thank you!
I got a 58 Nash Metropolitan. The fuel pump is very similar to this with minor differences. Can i follow this just the same as i am trying to rebuild my pump currently. Just waiting on parts
Yes, your Nash pump should be very close to this one, so you shouldn't have any trouble. If you do run into a problem, please don't hesitate to let me know, you can't run into anything I can't get you through.
Great video. I have rebuilt the pump on my TR250 and replaced filter. The manual primer squirts gas at carbs, but turning engine does not. In your video, you clamp up lever as part of tightening screws at diaphragm, but I did not. Is that a problem. Also, must I remove all air from line from main metal tube from tank up to pump or will vacuum suck. Lastly, can the pump be mated to block and the lever does not catch internal parts or is that automatic by just inserting pump into block and tightening bolts? Thanks. You gave a phone contact which I'll try if this comment section is no longer being monitored. Jim
Jim. By not preloading the diaphragm shouldn't have an effect on the pump's ability to pump fuel. It only has to do with the longevity of the diaphragm, and possibly the fuel pressure. There is no need to prime the lines, that is actually the main purpose of the priming lever. When you install the pump, it should go into the block and stop about a quarter inch from the flange touching the block. At that point, the arm should contact the cam lobe, and from that point, the bolts need to be used to pull it the rest of the way. If your pump went all the way in with no resistance, it sounds like you missed the cam lobe. That would make the pump inoperable. You can loosen the screws and preload the diapgrahm by doing what I did in the video. Let me know how you make out.
Thanks
Mike
@@thenandnowautomotive547
Thanks, Mike. I rebuilt the pump and corrected preloading the diaphragm, better seating the valves, and testing after assembly. Questions. There was no seal in kit for rod. I cleaned the two that were in place but they seem worn at hole. Does this really seal anything?
Blowing in output is blocked until I push in the valve “doors”. but I can not blow through input valve unless using air compressor. Finally, moving primer or lever does it generate sound of any suction like in your video.
Is my pump at fault, a bad valve? The weather cleared so I’ll put pump in place but think it will not work. Any ideas?
Thanks
Jim
@@jimhart3096 That seal keeps the oil from getting under the diaphragm and ending up coming out of the tiny weep hole. Did you get the kit from us?
@@jimhart3096 Sorry, I didn't see the rest of your question until just now. I would lean towards the problem being the valve. You can test the fuel section while it is not attached to the body of the pump. That would show you which valve is causing the problem.
@@thenandnowautomotive547
Hi, I'm in CA near SF. I have been working on fuel system for my one owner TR250 and replaced the filter and rebuilt original pump, AC 1216 Type U, with kit from Moss. Its been in and out of engine too many times and I'm about giving up getting it working. As in your TH-cam, I do not notice/feel suction after rebuild, from either cam lever or priming lever. I "loaded" the diaphragm as in your video and certain that valves are correct. Suspect leak, perhaps at seal around rod (which was not included in the Moss kit). Also, in trying it installed in car with both bolts in place, the unit "moves" during turning of engine, as if the cam is pushing against lever which is not free to rotate enough, apparently. I can not find a replacement available, so I see that you can rebuild pumps. Is this correct? About how long a process? Needless to say, pump was working on running car before I started cleaning up the filter, some connecting hoses near tank and filter. Original fuel problem was kinked rubber hose near tank probably caused by movement of tank during replacement of broken sender in tank. Otherwise, the car runs well with replacement of interior and seats next once I get this fuel problem behind me.
Thanks. Your TH-cam video was extremely helpful and the responses to my comments/questions likewise. For all the problems I have encountered and solved on this restoration, the fuel issues have been the most unpleasant.
Jim
Hi there! 1958 AMC Rambler Super here,(pt.22)
I have two fuel pumps for the rambler I'm trying to get on the road, I'm a beginner and am slowly gaining confidence as I try and work on various jobs on the rambler, I didn't ever drive the car, and the engine was in the trunk when I bought it, and all other Mechanical components were in two plastic totes, so I don't know how the carb linkage, clutch linkage or what condition anything else was in when the rambler last drove,the two fuel pumps I have are different kinds, only one has marking "AC" but nothing else and the other is "Carter", would you know anything about those old mechanical fuel pumps for those types of AMC cars?
Hi Tim. Both Carter and AC supplied pumps for AMC, as you have found. However depending on the engine and model, there are a few more variables. What kind of information are you looking for, I've rebuilt plenty of both kinds over the years. I should be able to help you out.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 I'm just wanting to find out if they work, or need to be taken all apart and cleaned, I saw on one person's video as they were rebuilding a pump if you can suck into the inlet or outlet, but not be able to blow air into the same inlet or outlet that is a indication both valves are operating in good condition. Other then that I feel hesitant to disassemble those pumps because they might be fine. What do you think?
@@timcooper6389 The valves are just one piece to the puzzle. The condition or age of the main diaphragm is something that should be taken into consideration. The condition of the oil seal is another. And finally, the condition or age of the pulsator diaphragm. All of those things play a big part in how long the pump will last. If either of those pumps were freshened up any earlier than the early 1970's, the material will fail rather quickly in the new fuels. I'm not trying to scare you, but please keep those things I mentioned in mind.
@@thenandnowautomotive547hmmmm, ok, since I don't know, rebuilding the pump would be the best thing to do, can you recommend a good rebuild pack to buy? Would you prefer if I made a video about the fuel pumps and let you know when I upload it so you can see what kind they Are and recommend a good rebuild pack?
@@timcooper6389 We can supply you with rebuilding kits for both pumps. We make them here on a daily basis, and are one of the only companies that supply rebuilding kits for Carter pumps. In order to make sure the correct kit is supplied, it's best to have the number that is stamped into the pump mounting flange. There may be other questions, but the person that answers the phone here will know what to ask for. Our phone number is at the end of every video on our channel. Just give us a call and we'll take care of the rest. There should be a video on rebuilding one of those AMC Carter pumps on our channel. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll round it up for you.
I have a 74 TR6 with an AC type U pump, I am going to rebuild the pump with one of your kits, I have installed an aftermarket pump that leaks on the outlet side of the fuel line. I understand there are issues with the compression sleeve and the length of threads that go into the pump. Do you know what size the compression sleeves are, and a way to stop the leak? Also if I modify the sleeves will they still work on my rebuilt pump?
The sleeve should be 1/4". It's a tough call on whether modifying the sleeve will still work on the rebuilt pump. My suggestion would be to change that leaky pump sooner than later. Good luck with the rebuild, follow what I did in the video and you should have no problems.