The valve closest to the crank pulley by passes the cooler hen cold. It has nothing to do with pressure. The valve by the flywheel controls the pressure. Good luck. Surf Thesamba for a complete accurate description.
Way too much is depending on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is good enough. Some say, "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
Great video! Very helpful. I like the air chisel idea! Muir book helped me out yesterday troubleshooting Misty's generator. Still in the works but I'm with you. Engine sounds great. ✌🙏
Thank you. On your generator, Check your brushes and commutator......nothing? look closely at your voltage regulator....take the cap off and make sure Abner didn’t store it in a bucket of water.....like mine. ( cause....you know, that’s the best place to store delicate electrical parts) Look at the relay contacts inside or any damaged or broken wire.
@@OkFixer changed the brushes and the commutator looks good. Gave it a sand still nothing. Its ancient and ita been overworked lately. Putting a fresh Bosch rebuilt very soon. Thanks okfixer
I would like to know if a stuck oil pressure relief ( or combination of relief and control valve on the post 1970 motors) can cause a new oil change to not show the correct level of oil on your VW dipstick?? What about it? Is that possible?
Dan...I was looking back at our e-mail exchange. You do great videos! T hat's a skill which I lack! I have an H0 Case at the machine shop. It has been sitting there for months. I will try to get the machinist to examine it--at least to know whether it is viable or not. I have another H0 Case but someone broke one of the oil cooler securing ears--then "glued" it back. It could be welded--BUT--with the high possibility that the Case would become warped in the process. Sigh! Keep up the great job there. Enjoy your Beetle! jay
Ok, first I need to tell you that most aftermarket parts are junk. Use German parts are better than most new parts. Unless they come from a carefully scrutinized company. second, your dealing with the blood of your engine. Make it right or you'll give it a heart attack. 1. Look for Captain Obvious first.....is the valve going all the way in the body? Do you have the springs swapped around? (look in the book, things can get topsy turvy when looking at the engine upside down , especially with a dual system) 2.Are you sure they are the right parts? No? don't know? get other ones. Original ones. 3. Look over page 38 and 39 of the orange Bentley book. It tells all about the pressure relief valve and gives some parameters. As I remember, those valves are pretty tight to screw shut. Use Permatex aviation sealant for the gasket....yeah...the brown stuff. I put my engines together with that stuff, three years ago and they still don't leak.
I like the way you painted the rims. I looked threw your videos but didn't see one on the wheels. I been thinking about doing mine like that but body color on center parts and Argent on outer band. But after seeing yours I kinda like the black
Black and White was the original scheme. I guess the engineers at Wolfsburg figured this would be best for all body colors. My thoughts on wheel painting: I just use rattle can. Fancy paint, is just going to get chipped and tore up. Even when pulling the hubcap. So, I just taped everything off and did a quickie on them. I cleaned up the overspray with lacquer thinner. And they look OK.
sorry i forgot ,,,,try a magnet instead of what your using ,,,like the ones that pick up tools ,,,they work great for that ,,,your scaring me with that tap LOL ,,,,,
Yeah...a magnet works great....if it’s not stuck. I showed this if you have a stuck or seized valve. I’m not very good with my speech, and probably didn’t say that in the video.
Glad to find this video. My good friend has also a ‘67 with a dual port 1600 motor that all of a sudden started overheating. You take it out for a little spin, even at lower speeds and it overheats instantly. Everything on the engine is right on from OEM fan housing and all engine tins to all the seals in the engine compartment, the right maintenance, valve adjustments, timing, right vacuum advance distributor, right oil, etc. It started doing this all of a sudden. I am suspecting an engine restorer additive he put in the oil to help correct a compression problem on his #1 cylinder. Not sure if any of these valves or the oil cooler could’ve gotten plugged. Supposedly this additive is microscopic in nature but... you never know. The car works perfectly in every way otherwise, including power, no weird noises, etc. What’s your take?
Define overheating. If you drive it for say 15 minutes or so. Can you pull the dipstick out? With your fingers and not burn them? Does it smell hot? Like burning oil? Truly, I do not know how hot those engines are supposed to run. I don’t have a number for you. But if you can’t pull the dipstick out with your fingers, and manage it. It’s too hot. Is the fan belt loose? Is he driving it uphill pulling a trailer in fourth gear? Ha ha Ha just joking I know better. Is it stop and go traffic in the Mojave Desert? I would be inclined to think that somehow either the fan isn’t turning? Don’t know how… But. Or the flaps underneath the fan shroud are closed. Only running on three cylinders, would also make it hot. The advance stuck or not working in the distributor? I would check the compression on those cylinders. They should be about 100 or more. If you have one below 90. It’s pretty weak. I wouldn’t continue to run the engine if it had low compression. Because it will take other things out also. And if it gets the case hot enough, It will warp it.
@@OkFixer Actually it smells like oil burning and the Gene Berg temperature dipstick starts lighting up the oil light pretty soon; even on 35 mph city drives, not like he’s on the interstate. It gets pretty hot and humid in Miami. Everything else checks out, although he has the OEM fan housing and all the tins (including the industrial motor tins; when using j tubes instead of heater boxes) he doesn’t have the flaps and the thermostat system in. He had 60 psi on cylinder #1 and the rest were normal in the 100’s. Fan is fine, belt is fine, he’s not lugging it. It just started happening after a run on the interstate to go south one day; it started leaking some oil on the right side of the car. We are ruling out the oil cooler seals because they had just been replaced as preventive maintenance (it wasn’t leaking before). It has its stock muffler, 34 carb, OEM oil bath cleaner and stock SVDA distributor. Timing and carb adjustment is fine including idle; also valve adjustment. The only things I can suspect is something plugged like the oil cooler or something going wrong in these pressure relief valves. Not sure if that engine restore additive that he had put in it some time before had anything to do with it.
Not everyone runs a business like you. It would be nice if they did. I feel the same way when I buy parts online. Great idea on the tool to remove the oil pressure plugs.
I’m not saying I’m the best businessman in the world. But I try to give people a fair shot. If it’s gonna take me a week to get a glass, that’s what I tell them. And I also tell them anything can happen though. It could come in broken. This guy, was and is touted quite a bit online. I imagine he’s really busy. So yeah. But I would’ve told my customer.
That's right--The "B" Case was the first 1600 Single-port Engine. VWaG went the extra mile with the new design by strengthening the lubricating system. For this reason, people who want to beef up a VW engine (usually more than a 1776) will choose a "B", or later, Case, because it allows for enhanced lubrication. Since your Case has the two Oil Reliefs, I know that you do not have the original engine in your 1967 Beetle. Yes--I looked at as many details of y our Beetle as I could. If you do not know about 1967beetle.com, I hope that you will open that Site and enjoy it as a lot of us in the '67 Beetle Community do. Keep up t he good work!
@@j.k.salser499 you probably don’t know… I am Dan from Oklahoma City, and I have talk to you several times on the phone. And asked you several questions about 1967 vehicles. I’ve also bought a bunch of your parts from your craigslist listing. Yes, I understand that is not the correct engine. This was just an engine given to me by my brother to get me time to find another engine. I realize that the correct case code is HO. Currently I am working on a H5 case…..68-69 as a replacement. It’s incredibly difficult to find a correct code case that is not beyond redemption. I’m still looking. And if you know anyone with a HO case let me know.
Wow! Hi, Dan--I wondered if we somehow "knew" one another. Your job of analyzing was perfect! In the long run, did your changing-of-the-spring prove to end the oil pressure problem? I hope so. I wonder how the spring got bent like that? Possibly from a previous owner's rebuild. Yes, the H0- engine cases are scarce. I have one at the machine shop presently--to be examined. Hopefully, it will prove to be good for yet another rebuild. Great videography, Dan! jay
Hello, Dan...Yes, I recall our interactions. You do great videography, Dan! In the long run--did your repair prove successful? The wonderment is how that spring became bent--possibly a previous owner's attempt to rebuild without checking all parts to be sure that they were in good condition. Keep up t he good work! jay
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[1/2] แก๊ง 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้บุก CAMPปลิ้นครั้งนี้ห้ามเสียอาการ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6WUjXHe1TM/mqdefault.jpg)
The valve closest to the crank pulley by passes the cooler hen cold. It has nothing to do with pressure. The valve by the flywheel controls the pressure. Good luck. Surf Thesamba for a complete accurate description.
great, thank you
Way too much is depending on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is good enough. Some say, "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
"At at at....train." 😆 Great video, man. Thank you for the excellent and detailed explainations.
thanks
Great video! Very helpful. I like the air chisel idea! Muir book helped me out yesterday troubleshooting Misty's generator. Still in the works but I'm with you. Engine sounds great. ✌🙏
Thank you.
On your generator, Check your brushes and commutator......nothing? look closely at your voltage regulator....take the cap off and make sure Abner didn’t store it in a bucket of water.....like mine. ( cause....you know, that’s the best place to store delicate electrical parts)
Look at the relay contacts inside or any damaged or broken wire.
@@OkFixer changed the brushes and the commutator looks good. Gave it a sand still nothing. Its ancient and ita been overworked lately. Putting a fresh Bosch rebuilt very soon. Thanks okfixer
I would like to know if a stuck oil pressure relief ( or combination of relief and control valve on the post 1970 motors) can cause a new oil change to not show the correct level of oil on your VW dipstick?? What about it? Is that possible?
I submit that someone previously stretched the spring to increase the line pressure rating.
Dan...I was looking back at our e-mail exchange. You do great videos! T hat's a skill which I lack! I have an H0 Case at the machine shop. It has been sitting there for months. I will try to get the machinist to examine it--at least to know whether it is viable or not. I have another H0 Case but someone broke one of the oil cooler securing ears--then "glued" it back. It could be welded--BUT--with the high possibility that the Case would become warped in the process. Sigh! Keep up the great job there. Enjoy your Beetle! jay
Hi.
Was it hard to get that valve with the long spring back in?
Mine, on my twin port 1600 just seems really tight to do up.
All the best.👍🏾🇬🇧
Ok, first I need to tell you that most aftermarket parts are junk. Use German parts are better than most new parts. Unless they come from a carefully scrutinized company.
second, your dealing with the blood of your engine. Make it right or you'll give it a heart attack.
1. Look for Captain Obvious first.....is the valve going all the way in the body? Do you have the springs swapped around? (look in the book, things can get topsy turvy when looking at the engine upside down , especially with a dual system)
2.Are you sure they are the right parts? No? don't know?
get other ones. Original ones.
3. Look over page 38 and 39 of the orange Bentley book. It tells all about the pressure relief valve and gives some parameters.
As I remember, those valves are pretty tight to screw shut. Use Permatex aviation sealant for the gasket....yeah...the brown stuff.
I put my engines together with that stuff, three years ago and they still don't leak.
You talk to much
Can’t please everyone.
You can get either hex head or allen key spring plugs that make removing the valves much easier.
I saw that ....very handy
I like the way you painted the rims. I looked threw your videos but didn't see one on the wheels. I been thinking about doing mine like that but body color on center parts and Argent on outer band. But after seeing yours I kinda like the black
Black and White was the original scheme. I guess the engineers at Wolfsburg figured this would be best for all body colors.
My thoughts on wheel painting:
I just use rattle can. Fancy paint, is just going to get chipped and tore up. Even when pulling the hubcap.
So, I just taped everything off and did a quickie on them. I cleaned up the overspray with lacquer thinner. And they look OK.
sorry i forgot ,,,,try a magnet instead of what your using ,,,like the ones that pick up tools ,,,they work great for that ,,,your scaring me with that tap LOL ,,,,,
Yeah...a magnet works great....if it’s not stuck. I showed this if you have a stuck or seized valve.
I’m not very good with my speech, and probably didn’t say that in the video.
Hey, glad your staying safe. Great troubleshooting tutorial, good job. Thanks ERA.
👍👍
Very helpful video as usual. Greetings from Melbourne, Australia.
Sorry so late ...thank you.....and hello back from ...now...gun sanctuary state Oklahoma. 😀😀😀
Glad to find this video. My good friend has also a ‘67 with a dual port 1600 motor that all of a sudden started overheating. You take it out for a little spin, even at lower speeds and it overheats instantly. Everything on the engine is right on from OEM fan housing and all engine tins to all the seals in the engine compartment, the right maintenance, valve adjustments, timing, right vacuum advance distributor, right oil, etc. It started doing this all of a sudden. I am suspecting an engine restorer additive he put in the oil to help correct a compression problem on his #1 cylinder. Not sure if any of these valves or the oil cooler could’ve gotten plugged. Supposedly this additive is microscopic in nature but... you never know. The car works perfectly in every way otherwise, including power, no weird noises, etc. What’s your take?
Define overheating. If you drive it for say 15 minutes or so. Can you pull the dipstick out? With your fingers and not burn them?
Does it smell hot? Like burning oil?
Truly, I do not know how hot those engines are supposed to run. I don’t have a number for you.
But if you can’t pull the dipstick out with your fingers, and manage it. It’s too hot.
Is the fan belt loose? Is he driving it uphill pulling a trailer in fourth gear? Ha ha Ha just joking I know better.
Is it stop and go traffic in the Mojave Desert?
I would be inclined to think that somehow either the fan isn’t turning? Don’t know how… But.
Or the flaps underneath the fan shroud are closed.
Only running on three cylinders, would also make it hot.
The advance stuck or not working in the distributor?
I would check the compression on those cylinders. They should be about 100 or more. If you have one below 90. It’s pretty weak.
I wouldn’t continue to run the engine if it had low compression. Because it will take other things out also. And if it gets the case hot enough, It will warp it.
@@OkFixer Actually it smells like oil burning and the Gene Berg temperature dipstick starts lighting up the oil light pretty soon; even on 35 mph city drives, not like he’s on the interstate. It gets pretty hot and humid in Miami. Everything else checks out, although he has the OEM fan housing and all the tins (including the industrial motor tins; when using j tubes instead of heater boxes) he doesn’t have the flaps and the thermostat system in. He had 60 psi on cylinder #1 and the rest were normal in the 100’s. Fan is fine, belt is fine, he’s not lugging it. It just started happening after a run on the interstate to go south one day; it started leaking some oil on the right side of the car. We are ruling out the oil cooler seals because they had just been replaced as preventive maintenance (it wasn’t leaking before). It has its stock muffler, 34 carb, OEM oil bath cleaner and stock SVDA distributor. Timing and carb adjustment is fine including idle; also valve adjustment. The only things I can suspect is something plugged like the oil cooler or something going wrong in these pressure relief valves. Not sure if that engine restore additive that he had put in it some time before had anything to do with it.
Not everyone runs a business like you. It would be nice if they did. I feel the same way when I buy parts online. Great idea on the tool to remove the oil pressure plugs.
I’m not saying I’m the best businessman in the world. But I try to give people a fair shot. If it’s gonna take me a week to get a glass, that’s what I tell them. And I also tell them anything can happen though. It could come in broken.
This guy, was and is touted quite a bit online. I imagine he’s really busy. So yeah. But I would’ve told my customer.
@@OkFixer
He has time to log in on thesamba.com,but no time to send you a email.
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle ha ha ha
Did you solve the oil pressure relief problem ?
Sorry so late.....yes, that fixed the problem
What size tap is it?
12mm I think... if it's not a 14mm...can't remember
Dual oil relief began in 1970, single-port 1600cc engine ("B" Case).
Is that what a “b” case was…..I was thinking some where in my mind that b….meant bus.
Ahhh…ok. I see now.
Thank you.
That's right--The "B" Case was the first 1600 Single-port Engine. VWaG went the extra mile with the new design by strengthening the lubricating system. For this reason, people who want to beef up a VW engine (usually more than a 1776) will choose a "B", or later, Case, because it allows for enhanced lubrication. Since your Case
has the two Oil Reliefs, I know that you do not have the original engine in your 1967 Beetle. Yes--I looked at as many details of y our Beetle as I could. If you do not know about 1967beetle.com, I hope that you will open that Site and enjoy it as a lot of us in the '67 Beetle Community do. Keep up t he good work!
@@j.k.salser499 you probably don’t know… I am Dan from Oklahoma City, and I have talk to you several times on the phone. And asked you several questions about 1967 vehicles. I’ve also bought a bunch of your parts from your craigslist listing.
Yes, I understand that is not the correct engine. This was just an engine given to me by my brother to get me time to find another engine.
I realize that the correct case code is HO.
Currently I am working on a H5 case…..68-69 as a replacement.
It’s incredibly difficult to find a correct code case that is not beyond redemption. I’m still looking. And if you know anyone with a HO case let me know.
Wow! Hi, Dan--I wondered if we somehow "knew" one another. Your job of analyzing was perfect! In the long run, did your changing-of-the-spring prove to end the oil pressure problem? I hope so. I wonder how the spring got bent like that? Possibly from a previous owner's rebuild. Yes, the H0- engine cases are scarce. I have one at the machine shop presently--to be examined. Hopefully, it will prove to be good for yet another rebuild. Great videography, Dan! jay
Hello, Dan...Yes, I recall our interactions. You do great videography, Dan! In the long run--did your repair prove successful? The wonderment is how that spring became bent--possibly a previous owner's attempt to rebuild without checking all parts to be sure that they were in good condition. Keep up t he good work! jay
Nice trouble shooting. Putting together a stock single port now so I'll make sure and pull relief valve and clean. Muir's book is the best!
Thank you very much