Your specific Viper is a "Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR" which has had a new version release into the Hot Wheels market very recently so you should have a fair shot at finding another on the pegs in nearby stores. When it comes to drag racing, you are out to minimise every possible source of friction and keep the axles straight. There's less randomness to worry about, compared to open track racing, but that just means the devil is REALLY in the details when racing in straight lines. You cannot trust anything to luck. I never saw the races at LCDRL so I don't have anything to go by your races to critique. I can say that racers don't pick a random car and build on it, they test and observe multiples of the same casting and build from the best of those.
Bill i imagine the heat in your shop warped your mat bring it in the house overnight try putting books on it should level out in 24 48 hours let me know the copo camaro is my favorite paint scheme yet
Continual experimenting, for me, is important. But one of the biggest improvements for me, is having a test track, timer going. You need to be able to measure what doing different things does. Stoopid is correct re E6000, though one has to be very careful using it, but then taking out axles, is easier and no damage. I have taken out axles before that I had jb welded in. Generally had not to damage the middle section of the axle, but then as long as you dont bend it, you can repolish the running surfaces. I generally use my dremel to carefully lower the glue down and around the axles. With your bum wheels, I would have cleaned out the wheels to try before removing them. ie with contact cleaner, or metho (denatured alc) then relube to try. If all that fails, yeah axles out. Cheers
Slanman is out of stock on the 2-lane system. I have enough to make my own. I just need to make the end gate for the LED's. Yes, I have all that stuff. I sent GTR all the parts he needed for his track and I have plenty left over. I even programmed his light and timer circuit onto the Arduino NANO chip. I prefer a 3-D printed gate. I have the axles and wheels off of the Viper, Holy F*K...I never filed the end caps. This was before you helped me. Also, this was before I even had E6000. Definitely going to be better this time. Thanks. Cheers.
Looks like the COPO might have a body rub issue as the fronts rolled better with the body off... I recently gave up on flitz myself... I know you are not a fan of the E6000... but now you see why I like it. Easier to remove from axles and never had a glue joint failure... The ultimate test will be the upcoming Junkyard Joust... every car was assembled with the E-6000! I have been experimenting with alternate lubes and waxes and combinations. I have also just recently started using graphite... and combinations of graphite and others... I am sure it has all been tried before by others, but as you say... it is an experiment! I am a visual learner and need to see it and understand the mechanisms and results for myself otherwise when it doesn't go as expected, I won't know why...
Thanks for the great comment. The COPO, really? I didn't notice that wheel rub. I will check again. On the Viper, I saw I did a front Wheel fender trim to make more room with the Binford 5000 rotary tool. The front right spins better with the body off but the front right is also a bit closer to the chassis, maybe too close. E6000, Yes, I already tried that and learned to be very careful of the "spider webs". It also takes long to dry. But, I found it's easier to get the axle out as its flexible.
@ Take a look... just my first thought when I saw you spin the wheel after the body was off... it was early, so maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me! 😂 Also I feel you on those screwdrivers... I try to stay away from the really pointy chea pass ones. But you have to match up the screw heads to the driver as the JIS vs. Phillips head matchup will get you!
Bill pop out the old axles with small flathead then fit the screwdriver between all 3 put in new axle isnt going to be super tight but you wont lose the 3rd tab should help but i never raced a car so i dont know if it will hold and 7/10 times the tabs break anyway😂
Yes, thanks man. Very easy to bend the axles though. I found centering them is the hardest part when "hard" glueing them in. I'm thinking like you, keep the 3 tabs and let the wheels shift naturally.
Yes, the table tilts away from me but the green mat IS warped in 2 places. It is from the heat in the workshop. I'm sure you understand what heat does to things.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Before you comment, Balance, Weight, and 4 wheel contact on a glass plare are next, but ANY comments welcomed for help. Thanks
Your specific Viper is a "Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR" which has had a new version release into the Hot Wheels market very recently so you should have a fair shot at finding another on the pegs in nearby stores.
When it comes to drag racing, you are out to minimise every possible source of friction and keep the axles straight. There's less randomness to worry about, compared to open track racing, but that just means the devil is REALLY in the details when racing in straight lines. You cannot trust anything to luck.
I never saw the races at LCDRL so I don't have anything to go by your races to critique. I can say that racers don't pick a random car and build on it, they test and observe multiples of the same casting and build from the best of those.
Great comment. Thanks.
Bill i imagine the heat in your shop warped your mat bring it in the house overnight try putting books on it should level out in 24 48 hours let me know the copo camaro is my favorite paint scheme yet
Continual experimenting, for me, is important.
But one of the biggest improvements for me, is having a test track, timer going.
You need to be able to measure what doing different things does.
Stoopid is correct re E6000, though one has to be very careful using it, but then taking out axles, is easier and no damage.
I have taken out axles before that I had jb welded in. Generally had not to damage the middle section of the axle, but then as long as you dont bend it, you can repolish the running surfaces. I generally use my dremel to carefully lower the glue down and around the axles.
With your bum wheels, I would have cleaned out the wheels to try before removing them. ie with contact cleaner, or metho (denatured alc) then relube to try. If all that fails, yeah axles out.
Cheers
Slanman is out of stock on the 2-lane system. I have enough to make my own. I just need to make the end gate for the LED's. Yes, I have all that stuff. I sent GTR all the parts he needed for his track and I have plenty left over. I even programmed his light and timer circuit onto the Arduino NANO chip. I prefer a 3-D printed gate. I have the axles and wheels off of the Viper, Holy F*K...I never filed the end caps. This was before you helped me. Also, this was before I even had E6000. Definitely going to be better this time. Thanks. Cheers.
@@sstdiecastracing2372 All a journey!
Looks like the COPO might have a body rub issue as the fronts rolled better with the body off...
I recently gave up on flitz myself...
I know you are not a fan of the E6000... but now you see why I like it. Easier to remove from axles and never had a glue joint failure... The ultimate test will be the upcoming Junkyard Joust... every car was assembled with the E-6000!
I have been experimenting with alternate lubes and waxes and combinations. I have also just recently started using graphite... and combinations of graphite and others... I am sure it has all been tried before by others, but as you say... it is an experiment! I am a visual learner and need to see it and understand the mechanisms and results for myself otherwise when it doesn't go as expected, I won't know why...
Thanks for the great comment. The COPO, really? I didn't notice that wheel rub. I will check again. On the Viper, I saw I did a front Wheel fender trim to make more room with the Binford 5000 rotary tool. The front right spins better with the body off but the front right is also a bit closer to the chassis, maybe too close. E6000, Yes, I already tried that and learned to be very careful of the "spider webs". It also takes long to dry. But, I found it's easier to get the axle out as its flexible.
@ Take a look... just my first thought when I saw you spin the wheel after the body was off... it was early, so maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me! 😂
Also I feel you on those screwdrivers... I try to stay away from the really pointy chea pass ones. But you have to match up the screw heads to the driver as the JIS vs. Phillips head matchup will get you!
Bill pop out the old axles with small flathead then fit the screwdriver between all 3 put in new axle isnt going to be super tight but you wont lose the 3rd tab should help but i never raced a car so i dont know if it will hold and 7/10 times the tabs break anyway😂
Yes, thanks man. Very easy to bend the axles though. I found centering them is the hardest part when "hard" glueing them in. I'm thinking like you, keep the 3 tabs and let the wheels shift naturally.
Maybe it's the table lol!
Yes, the table tilts away from me but the green mat IS warped in 2 places. It is from the heat in the workshop. I'm sure you understand what heat does to things.