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I'm an heating engineer. Heating elements usually work better when placed at the bottom of whatever is required to be heated ie, a kettle or oil filled radiator, immersion etc and the heat itself is used to do the circulating. To get the best and maintenance free output from the set-up it's best to have a stainless steel pipe passed through the bottom of the radiator for the exhaust gases to pass through and the radiator sealed to it allowing no leaks from the radiator. Then fill the radiator with diathermal oil to 80% capacity to allow for expansion, heat and bleed air until hissing stops then seal bleed valve. Have radiator very slightly tilted by a few degrees to allow condensate to expel naturally.
I think that's a great idea! The only caution I would recommend is keep an eye on the bottom of the radiator if it's not stainless steel. I know in Canada Natural Gas furnaces use a stainless steel secondary heat exchanger because when the exhaust gases condense into droplets they are very corrosive so it has to be stainless steel. I don't know if this applies to diesel or oil but I just thought I'd mention it.
Yes it is very corrosive with diesel too. Probably more so than natural gas. But I bet that radiator will still last several years. I think he said he paid only $20 for it so if it only lasts a hand full of years. I'm sure it would pay for itself.
Have you measured the temperature difference between the exhausted gas when radiator connected and when the line is directly without radiator? So you could calculate the temperature "collected" inside the room?😊
This is very much how a condensing boiler works, it passes the spent flue/ exhaust gasses through a secondary heat exchanger, your secondary heat exchanger is the steel radiator which will rot due to the acidic water produced from the hot gasses condensing inside the initial cold radiator That's why flue's and secondary heat exchangers on boilers are either plastic or stainless steel. Strongly recommend a non corrosive radiator and a Carbon Monoxide detector
Well done! My Thermodynamics professor would be very happy with this setup. I’ve just “discovered” these diesel heaters and am very interested in possibly using one to heat my garage here in Western Washington, 🇺🇸. Thanks for the excellent video!
I had a similar idea when I saw these diesel heaters, well done for having a bash. Some thoughts I had were rather than passing the exhaust gases directly through the radiator, another way would be to feed it into a shell and tube heat exchanger. The radiator can then be filled with thermal oil and a small pump attached to circulate. Should eliminate the condensation/corrosion problems and the heat will also be retained for longer in the radiator. You can easily expand the system with more radiators as well if required.
brilliant idea my friend. yes just experimenting but thats a good one, i might have a go at that.. and thank you for watching. kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
@@andyfireblade Just watched your latest video. Awesome job and seems to be working a treat, are you going to try it with thermal oil? The oil should be able to get much hotter than water as it won't boil. Might also be worth considering bringing the exhaust pipe straight down from the heater to the tank, at the same level as the bottom of the radiator and then out the wall , sloping slightly downwards to ensure any condensation is exiting the pipe. I think this is a fantastic first attempt though and proves the concept very well😁😁😁
hey fast eddy i have just don the latest video, please watch it ! i am really happy with how it worked out. th-cam.com/video/wScN6uoYF4Y/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgwYjsbR4YvvekjwZ4d4AaABAg.9l7Jc-gf1TO9l7OPphyHJZ let me know what you think kind regards any
Beautiful installation. The radiator should be tilted a little so that the condensate runs to the outlet. The air flow of the diesel heater could be directed above the radiator so that the rising air flow of the radiator also has an additional horizontal movement component and does not rise directly below the ceiling.
I like this idea and will adapt it to my garage. I have a dehumidifier that runs 24x7 to protect the expensive motorbikes from corrosion. It samples the air every 30-minutes to see if it needs drying. Your solution would raise the temperate to allow the air to hold more moisture and reduce the energy used to dehumidify the cold damp air. This could reduce my household bill by 50% because maintaining a damp free garage doubled my energy bill. Great informative video.
thank you graham, your set up sound great. the good thing about these heaters , is that the heat given off is dry. the "burn" fumes go outside though the exhaust. i have had diesel heaters in the past, and the condensation would be dripping down the coldest walls and rust my tools . i have a Kawasaki er6n 650 at the moment by the way, no fireblade at the moment. thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
I'd love to see a couple of those little sterling engine fans on top of the radiator to move the air around, this is a really efficient set up overall..
@andyfireblade Love the channel man, I've been binging your content. I plan to Insulate my two car garage and get an "8kw" Heater for the winter. Your content is full of great ideas, And I'll be putting them to good use next fall. Keep rockin
You could run a tumble dryer flexy hose from near the ceiling to the diesel heater cold air inlet. That would pull warm air down to a useful level with no additional fans.
Nice to see the experiment and thanks. It would be interesting to cut a generic radiator open after a couple of months and see what it looks like inside ! Obviously not yours Andy !🙂
thats true, you get enough heat from the heater its self in that room. thanks for looking. did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade cheers andy
You've probably got a good bit of moisture building up in the bend after the heater but before the radiator. So raise the heater to make sure the exhaust goes downhill. You may need some ducting to ensure better mixing of the air down near the floor. So pull cold air from the floor and pipe the hot air out near the floor in such a way as to not put it in with the. Older intake air.
Nice job Andy. I have a similar set up, only I ran my exhaust gas thru a 10 ft long 1" & finishing through 3/4" copper pipe which is a fabulous conductor of the heat keeping that much in the room. (Summer house) Regarding the condensation / steam from your exhaust. Almost a definite result of clash of temperatures. I tested the heater without the extension pipe and yes it ran clean & dry (no steam) I would advise from my findings that your exhaust needs to be heading downhill the whole way out as you will eventually have condensation blocking on that low point on your exhaust. Thanks for the vid. Ray
hello ray, thats great to know. and thank you for watching. kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
This is a great idea though you really want to have hot gasses going into the bottom of the radiator and out the top but then you have to deal with condensate. This could be done with a separate narrow pipe coming out the bottom. Also get a stainless radiator as the cheap steel ones will corrode like crazy because diesel exhaust gases are corrosive.
It seems to me that the best option would be to use an antique cast iron steam radiator, mounting the heater higher than the lower fitting (so that any startup and shutdown condensation doesn't migrate back into the combustion chamber), then plumbing the exhaust into the lower fitting, out the top and then to the outside. This method would mitigate the condensation concern (especially if it's run long enough for everything in the exhaust stream to heat up enough and prevent moisture from collecting), along with hopefully creating more even heating in the radiator. The only thing I'm completely stumped with is just how large of a radiator could be used before you see diminishing returns. Obviously you'd want the largest you could realistically use before reaching that point for the sake of scavenging as much heat as you can.
my thoughts exactly, i would like to try a big cast iron radiator. thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Im just planning on gearing up a "sand battery". Basically I'll be mounting the heater high enough that I can put a tank directly underneath it, run a couple of coils of exhaust pipe within the sand filled tank, then out through the wall. All of my exhaust pipe will be running downwards and the total length probably won't be much more than about 6 or 7 feet. ANY amount of heat captured by this method is money saved and increased efficiency. 👍 I have a brand new, never used but outdated 20lb propane tank, will cut the top off so i can coil the exhaust through it, drill a hole for the outlet, fill it with sand, replace the top, etc, etc....
This is amazing, please try to keep It all on the angle downwards., also , fume exhaust and moisture traps the carbon , do setup a maintenance window to check how clogged the radiator is
Yes, of course, the pipe went over the radiator neck and with a jubilee clip. kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
I Russia where they have done this on several channels they used cast radiators as the exhaust condensate is quite acrid - they claim up to 1.5 kw of heat can be recuperated at full power
Thanks, will do! and thank you for watching. kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
You can get something that comes in a tube like a silicone gun thats for sealing up industrial furnaces (EFW Plant) I think it goes to 800c you should seal up the exhaust. It may be ok if your room has a positive room pressure, if it goes negative with the likes of doors opening you risk drawing fumes back in. Love your set up. Keep an eye out for corrosion in the rad and keep detectors near by
Cool setup but from the angle I can see on the exhaust, it rises up to join the rad, meaning most liquid in the pipe is going to sit under the inlet to the rad
This is much better solution as the exhaust gasses and the air flows against each other. This is the most effective method of heat exchange. I have a 🙋 how did you connector the exhaust pipe into the radiator. Could you describe it more precisely please? Maybe some sort video?
hello richard that would be a great idea! in the very hot corner, cooling the rad and spreading the heat around the room. brilliant, thats why i lover you guys comments cheers andy www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Hi Andy.....I think this is a great idea. What is the size of the radiator? Do you think you would it be better to use a larger one? What connectors did you use to attach the exhaust pipe to the radiator.
hello john, yes this is just a small 500mm x 400mm i think. it was just the cheapest one at selco builders yard. for the experiment. a much bigger cast iron one would be better. i have been told that you can heat the biggest rad with one of these. did you see my other videos, i have one of these heaters heating my house. kindest regards andy
you could also heat up water in a big insulated tank and use this stored heat (use water, heating the room), additional to the radiator (first heating up water, then to big radiator)
Great idea, i would like to get an insulated tank. thanks , and thanks for looking did your see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think cheers andy
Add an STC 1000 or similar controller, they do 12v ones. Have the probe sensing the radiator. Add fans (on a plenum at the bottom of the radiator pushing air up the back of the radiator thru the fins) also 12v so computer fans. The stc needs to see 65c or so before switching the fans on. So you get an increase of air flow over the rad. This will again increase its efficiency. Holding the fans off with the stc will allow the PSU to cope with the glow plug load etc. STCs can have 2 probes, so you could in theory use the second one as a room thermostat, and control the heater with it, again adding efficiency.
Is there a follow up to this video in your playlists?. A kind of long term use review. Great video,seen a view vids on recycling exhaust gas for extra heat,yours looks the most original and effective.
thanks for watching, not a long term. but some similar in my other videos. please take a look at them, let me know what you think? i prefer the one where i heat the water up in the radiator, i think that is better long term cheers andy
It looks good but you have a trap on the exhaust between the heater and radiator id either place the heater higher or further from the radiator to straighten the pipe or shorten the pipe.
Looks good - can you let me know what fitting you used to connect to the radiator ? I have a radiator sitting around so would be good to give this a test also!
i used car hose clamps, worm drive or jubilee brand thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Try a series of bends in the large pipe with a radiator at the end to keep the heat in the larger tube maybe heat sink on the top to put the hottest heat in the air while effective.
Tried this at the weekend but resulted in black exhaust smoke. Was a double radiator the same size as yours.Not sure if it was a back pressure problem or something else. Might try an inline exhaust fan to see if that helps. If anyone has any ideas I would be delighted to hear them. Cheers David
@@andyfireblade think you may be right. I deliberately went for a double so as not to reduce the flow. Have ordered a 3m extension and will try that next and look round for an older cast iron radiator with much greater flow. Cheers David
@@davidhobbs7891 yes , i am on the look out for an old cast iron one too. i imagine with less restrictions inside. and gradually get hot and retain its heat. cheers andy
Until he needs to clean the radiator that's now filled with soot, sure. It wouldn't have been an issue if this was a propane heater but this is burning diesel.
Panel rads have a baffle fitted inside the bottom part. So connection at bottom opposite ends will allow the top to get hot but will also cause condensate to become trapped.
Looking good when I do mine I think I put a longer exhaust pipe just to dissipate the heat slightly before it reaches the radiator. Congratulations you didn't hang about on doing Mark 2
Andy, you need to slant it 45 degrees and fill the heater with water to just below the spill point, it will then absorb the heat and spread more effectively and allow gases to escape allowing more efficiency
That's really amazing! I wonder if you got one of those thermal electric fans that go on top of wood stoves if it would help to move some of that heat around the room a little better.
That’s marvellous, I really appreciate your ingenuity. If I may make a suggestion? I think that if you connect both the input and output pipes to the bottom of the rad then the rising hot fumes will heat more of the radiator than that peculiar top in and bottom out arrangement. That would also improve the flow because the input will currently be fighting against the tendency of the hot fumes to rise. I must say that I share some mentioned concerns about the exhaust fumes causing the mild steel rad to corrode from the inside.
try the intake at the rad bottom & the exit at the top because as we all know hot air rises so the middle of the rad should benefit a little better ...your next experiment ..look forward to the results
Thanks nice video, So how many radiators can you attach to one of those diesel heaters , do you think you can attach about 5 or 6 radiators, and what is the fuel cost when compared to gas or electric for the year?
i dont think you could att more. maybe a bigger cast iron one would be good? thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
You need cold air intake for the burner coming in from outside. Currently you are sucking in warm air from the room and burning diesel with it then sending it outside. Unless i am mistaken
yes, you are right. thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
My plan is to pass the exhaust through a coil in an immersion heater which could then supply radiators throughout the house , don't know if it will work but figure its worth a try would also be supplying warm/hot water for house depending on how many radiators it has to supply
Always thought about running some pipe work from an exhaust whether it from a heater like that or even an open fire, have the heat from exhaust/burnt materials pass threw pipe work in my above ground pool, not sure how far exhaust gases would run horizontally before may become an issue, but as your getting quite a lot of heat as you show that you can’t even touch it suggests perhaps a straight length of stainless steel pipe running threw my pool water may just take the edge of it, the missus works in an outbuilding and we currently use electric panel heaters but are going to fit one of these heaters, as she works in there for 7-9hrs 5 days a week,,that’s would be a fair amount of spent heat passing threw our pool water, may just give this a bash. To me it’s all about trying different things that spent heat should be re used on something else, I remember a workshop I worked in had these single tube type radiator bars running the length of walls and you couldn’t touch them they were so hot, that was the only source of heating and that workshop was always toasty.
good plan. yes stainless would be good and a wider bore to reduce back pressure. please take a look at my other vids, let me know what you think? www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade cheers andy
Try positioning the heater so the fan will blow over the radiator also. Pick up a carbon monoxide detector also in case the radiator system develops a leak.
The reason for the moisture is the gases from the exhaust have cooled past the due point which means any moisture from the air prior to burning have started to condense back to water
I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on CFM of the fan.
I wonder if mounting the radiator at 45 degrees would help with removing condensation within the radiator as it can just flow out then along with the fumes. Just a thought 👍🏼.
yes thats true, or a slight tilt. thanks for your comment. kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
i use an inter cooler on another video, thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
yes, i would love to do that. but they are really expensive. thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Heat always rises! (just look at our extreme weather!) try placing the exhaust on the bottom, outlet to outdoor on top. Actually, I run the exhaust indoors at only 5ppm (with a door open), for extra heat 'n warmth. Specially that it's summer and hot weather makes it ideal for testing......
Placing the exhaust on the bottom, outlet to outdoor on top? Where should the condensate go? I think it is fine as it is, because pressure will push the heat down and through the system.
i have a convection electric 2kw radiator, and is giving off the same amount of heat as it. thanks for looking. did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade cheers andy
I feel like you could be using a much bigger radiator here. I would be tempted though to try to coat the inside with something to protect from the condensate. If there is a suitable paint type coating one could fill the radiator up with it to ensure complete coating and then drain the excess and leave it at an angle to drip drain as it dries out over several days. Not sure what you would do with the leftovers 😂
Interesting ! You may get condensation between the exhaust on the diesel heater side and radiator. as the unit cools, it will pull moisture from outside to the last bit of heat source. I wouldn't be worried about radiator to exterior side. it would be nice if a person could find a dual core radiator. and fill one core with water. and core two as the exhaust side. it would be like a water battery.
I often thought about putting the exhust through an indirect cylinder and seeing if it would heat the water. Judging by your through a rad experiment I feel confident this could work and therefore a cheap hot/warm? water supply for off grid.
What about running the exhaust through or around a small water tank (separated) and have a pump circulating the water in the tank.i Imagine the radiator would stay hot much longer.
This is the same system used to heat tipper truck bodies in Canada, Russia etc due the muck sticking on the bottom...great idea but you need to plumb it sightly differently to get the most efficiency...put the exhaust to the bottom of the radiator...just the fact the heat raises! Do you have a thermal imagining camera to see how the heat moves through the radiator...?? What is the exhaust gas heat, if its around 30 degree that perfect so that the condensation burns off, higher you need a larger radiator etc.. also you do need to put a tap on the bottom of the radiator for the excess condensation to be removed, it will build up...But its a great idea....you could go one more step and get hot water from it as well as a heat exchanger..but thats a far bit more engineering......signed up to your channel
I love this idea! I've a quick question, I've searched Amazon and other local sites for diesel 8kw heaters. I'm finding heaters that all look the same and have the same descriptions but ranging in price from €100 - €250+. How do I know which one is best? Thanks
hello martin, i am seeing these on ebay from £80-90 please see my other videos, if you check out the unboxing video or the red one, it is one of these cheap ones. it is really good and has a good remote control. thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
yes, me too. i am looking out for one! thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Great point! like a storage heater? i have another one heating my house up, it is outside in a box. with a 4" hole in the wall piping the hot air in. heres a link if you would like to see it th-cam.com/channels/3sYHaAZtJI-vrD64K7Qe9w.html kind regards andy
A radiant heater is OK in the house but it doesn't give off much heat with a fast flow of hot gas .......you will need a heat exchanger that has a fan and a core .......like a car's radiator system but with exhaust gas and air flow......the inlet exhaust gas temperature and the final outlet exhaust temperature will prove its efficiency.
Hi Andy , just fitted my heater in the garage nightmare to prime but sorted now , how are people fitting the control unit ? Double sided tape ? Had loads of smoke on start up but clean now and silencer isnt making any difference sound wise but fitted. Exhaust and air pipes at the moment go outside through some luckily existing holes . Andy all this is new to me and think am worried about everything lol , even put a flag stone at the end of the exhaust. Checked the cavity of the wall and cant see any rock wool . Andy bless you if you reply to all of this message 😂😂
i was totally the same, i was worried that it was going to blow up. the sound of these building up, like a jet engine is initially scary. yes smoke on start up is normal . and the initial prime problem is normal too. the exhausts are not really worth bothering with, but if you are resourceful you should be able to dampen or deflect the noise somehow. you can use a motorcycle exhaust. when i have the control unit separate to the machine, i used a couple of self tapping screws. it sounds like you have served your apprenticeship now, you can now start to enjoy the rewards for you hard work, and you will be able to leave this on for hours without worrying cheers andy
What about a car radiator? That should help with the centre cold spot and you could even mount a fan to blow into the room! Loads of 2nd hand around and I've seen a new custom built aluminium (not sure if that's a suitable material) for just £30.
would've thought in the bottom and out the top would've yielded the best results, moisture would be vaporised out of the system anyway due to the heat.
I would put some computer fans at the bottom to force air upward faster so it recovers even more heat and also to not cook the paint on the radiator because those gases are toxic.
Let’s look at some simple Physics/Chemistry. Supposed 5kW (likely provides circa 4kW of warmed air), running at only half speed (H3) setting (~2kW) is very unlikely to be providing the ‘more than 2kW’ from exhaust heat recovery - it would be virtually all the energy input to the heater! Temperature is not the same as energy. Fuels contain some sulphur which will burn to suphur dioxide/trioxide and dissolve in any liquid water to form sulphurous/ic acid which will dissolve both mild steel and copper.😮 Exhaust gases should be kept above dew point or condensation will occur. Above 100 degrees Celsius, at the exhaust outlet, would alleviate the condensation problem, but restrict the amount of heat recovery from those exhaust gases to approx 2/3rds of the total available. Cold surfaces in a household radiator will always allow condensation within the flow path. Apart from the risks of eventual exhaust gas leaks (these heaters are not certified for indoor use because of potentially lethal CO poisoning), an EGR cooler from a diesel engine with exhaust gas recirculation would, I think, be a better/safer way to recover any reasonable amount of the exhaust heat available. But, as always, there will be those that ignore (or haven’t a clue of) the safety, to try to extract a little extra heat, so will carry on regardless.
i would have thought a exhaust heat exchanger would be a better way to do this, surely any resistance on the main exhaust outlet would cause the exhaust gasses to be forced out elsewhere as they aint the best made things?
yes you are right.it would be . or using heating water to go round the radiator. certainly for long term use. the gases dont really pressure up in there. there are fairly free flowing. but thanks for your comment. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html regards andy
You could probably heat two of those radiators with the heat coming out of that exhaust! Also I’d be curious if running this in sub zero outside temperatures if ice buildup around the exhaust would ever become an issue?
it would heat a bigger radiator, maybe a bigger cast iron one would be good. the exhaust is too hot for it to freeze up. thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Cool! One question though. If you read the manual, they say that you cannot obstruct or lengthen the exhaust pipe due to back pressure, inefficient burning etc. Causing waste buildup in the burner. How is this effecting the burner after a few months? Thanks
My gas whole home generator box when it's running even though exhaust is vented gets to around 40c from the air blowing through the engine. Using exhaust gas as a radiator is genius
Great idea, I would though recommend to pay attention to the exhaust pipe slope, the highest point should be the exit point from the diesel heater itself then the lowest point should be the far end opening (outdoor), to make sure that all fluid condensation is out neither gathered in the radiator nor back to the diesel heater!
thank you for your comment . it is just a basic cheap brand. did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
hello my friend yes, these are quiet noisy. you have inspired me to do a video on the noise, so that people who are thinking of buying one understand. cheers andy
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Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/3ZwMAPc
Radiator: amzn.to/3ZwMAPc
New control panel: amzn.to/3GW0mDu
Ducting: amzn.to/3CF7l0W
I'm an heating engineer. Heating elements usually work better when placed at the bottom of whatever is required to be heated ie, a kettle or oil filled radiator, immersion etc and the heat itself is used to do the circulating. To get the best and maintenance free output from the set-up it's best to have a stainless steel pipe passed through the bottom of the radiator for the exhaust gases to pass through and the radiator sealed to it allowing no leaks from the radiator. Then fill the radiator with diathermal oil to 80% capacity to allow for expansion, heat and bleed air until hissing stops then seal bleed valve. Have radiator very slightly tilted by a few degrees to allow condensate to expel naturally.
great comment
thank you cheers andy and happy new year
Location of heating elements isn't part of this equation. "Engineer"
Alternatively use water with a corrosion inhibitor around the hot exhaust pipe.
I think that's a great idea! The only caution I would recommend is keep an eye on the bottom of the radiator if it's not stainless steel. I know in Canada Natural Gas furnaces use a stainless steel secondary heat exchanger because when the exhaust gases condense into droplets they are very corrosive so it has to be stainless steel. I don't know if this applies to diesel or oil but I just thought I'd mention it.
Thanks for the info! good point.
kindest regard andy
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html this is the other one in the house.
Yes it is very corrosive with diesel too. Probably more so than natural gas. But I bet that radiator will still last several years. I think he said he paid only $20 for it so if it only lasts a hand full of years. I'm sure it would pay for itself.
@@jim4556 this, i wouldn't be concerned at all I'd just replace it when it went bad. These junk/free or cheap radiators are everywhere.....
It’s not just moisture it’s carbonic acid. Uk radiators are ferrous metal. You would be better using an aluminium one if you can
Have you measured the temperature difference between the exhausted gas when radiator connected and when the line is directly without radiator? So you could calculate the temperature "collected" inside the room?😊
This is very much how a condensing boiler works, it passes the spent flue/ exhaust gasses through a secondary heat exchanger, your secondary heat exchanger is the steel radiator which will rot due to the acidic water produced from the hot gasses condensing inside the initial cold radiator That's why flue's and secondary heat exchangers on boilers are either plastic or stainless steel. Strongly recommend a non corrosive radiator and a Carbon Monoxide detector
Great point!
thanks for looking.
did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
@@andyfireblade Hi! Any chance you can please provide the search string for your radiator? The link itself is not working in the US, at least.
@@taliaperkins1389 try this one amzn.to/3tqQii3 merry christmas andy
Well done! My Thermodynamics professor would be very happy with this setup. I’ve just “discovered” these diesel heaters and am very interested in possibly using one to heat my garage here in Western Washington, 🇺🇸. Thanks for the excellent video!
I had a similar idea when I saw these diesel heaters, well done for having a bash. Some thoughts I had were rather than passing the exhaust gases directly through the radiator, another way would be to feed it into a shell and tube heat exchanger. The radiator can then be filled with thermal oil and a small pump attached to circulate. Should eliminate the condensation/corrosion problems and the heat will also be retained for longer in the radiator. You can easily expand the system with more radiators as well if required.
brilliant idea my friend. yes just experimenting but thats a good one, i might have a go at that.. and thank you for watching.
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
@@andyfireblade Just watched your latest video. Awesome job and seems to be working a treat, are you going to try it with thermal oil? The oil should be able to get much hotter than water as it won't boil. Might also be worth considering bringing the exhaust pipe straight down from the heater to the tank, at the same level as the bottom of the radiator and then out the wall , sloping slightly downwards to ensure any condensation is exiting the pipe. I think this is a fantastic first attempt though and proves the concept very well😁😁😁
hey fast eddy
i have just don the latest video, please watch it ! i am really happy with how it worked out.
th-cam.com/video/wScN6uoYF4Y/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgwYjsbR4YvvekjwZ4d4AaABAg.9l7Jc-gf1TO9l7OPphyHJZ
let me know what you think
kind regards any
@@andyfireblade Awesome proof of concept😁, heat exchanger works a treat
@@andyfireblade those heat exchangers are very expensive. Several hundred pounds.
Beautiful installation. The radiator should be tilted a little so that the condensate runs to the outlet.
The air flow of the diesel heater could be directed above the radiator so that the rising air flow of the radiator also has an additional horizontal movement component and does not rise directly below the ceiling.
I like this idea and will adapt it to my garage. I have a dehumidifier that runs 24x7 to protect the expensive motorbikes from corrosion. It samples the air every 30-minutes to see if it needs drying. Your solution would raise the temperate to allow the air to hold more moisture and reduce the energy used to dehumidify the cold damp air. This could reduce my household bill by 50% because maintaining a damp free garage doubled my energy bill. Great informative video.
thank you graham, your set up sound great. the good thing about these heaters , is that the heat given off is dry. the "burn" fumes go outside though the exhaust. i have had diesel heaters in the past, and the condensation would be dripping down the coldest walls and rust my tools .
i have a Kawasaki er6n 650 at the moment by the way, no fireblade at the moment.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
great idea! If the exhaust still comes out that hot, my guess is the heater could even handle a much bigger radiator.
yes, thats true
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Add tumble dryer sheets to outlet smells amazing
I'd love to see a couple of those little sterling engine fans on top of the radiator to move the air around, this is a really efficient set up overall..
good idea, cheers andy
@andyfireblade Love the channel man, I've been binging your content. I plan to Insulate my two car garage and get an "8kw" Heater for the winter. Your content is full of great ideas, And I'll be putting them to good use next fall. Keep rockin
You could run a tumble dryer flexy hose from near the ceiling to the diesel heater cold air inlet. That would pull warm air down to a useful level with no additional fans.
Nice to see the experiment and thanks. It would be interesting to cut a generic radiator open after a couple of months and see what it looks like inside ! Obviously not yours Andy !🙂
Thanks for the idea reg! another video? hahah . thanks for your comment regards andy
It will badly corrode a cheap steel radiator like this, you really want to use a stainless radiator.
Improvement idea:
Put the radiator in the next room.
This maximize the use of the heat.
The heater itself heats up the room you place it in.
thats true, you get enough heat from the heater its self in that room.
thanks for looking.
did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
You've probably got a good bit of moisture building up in the bend after the heater but before the radiator. So raise the heater to make sure the exhaust goes downhill. You may need some ducting to ensure better mixing of the air down near the floor. So pull cold air from the floor and pipe the hot air out near the floor in such a way as to not put it in with the. Older intake air.
Thanks for the tips!
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
Just after the heater before the radiator, it’s about 250c. No moisture is condensing in that section of the pipe it’s too hot
Nice job Andy. I have a similar set up, only I ran my exhaust gas thru a 10 ft long 1" & finishing through 3/4" copper pipe which is a fabulous conductor of the heat keeping that much in the room.
(Summer house)
Regarding the condensation / steam from your exhaust. Almost a definite result of clash of temperatures. I tested the heater without the extension pipe and yes it ran clean & dry (no steam)
I would advise from my findings that your exhaust needs to be heading downhill the whole way out as you will eventually have condensation blocking on that low point on your exhaust.
Thanks for the vid. Ray
hello ray, thats great to know.
and thank you for watching.
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
This is a great idea though you really want to have hot gasses going into the bottom of the radiator and out the top but then you have to deal with condensate. This could be done with a separate narrow pipe coming out the bottom. Also get a stainless radiator as the cheap steel ones will corrode like crazy because diesel exhaust gases are corrosive.
Great point! cheers andy
EN590 diesel (red or white) has virtually no sulphur.
It seems to me that the best option would be to use an antique cast iron steam radiator, mounting the heater higher than the lower fitting (so that any startup and shutdown condensation doesn't migrate back into the combustion chamber), then plumbing the exhaust into the lower fitting, out the top and then to the outside. This method would mitigate the condensation concern (especially if it's run long enough for everything in the exhaust stream to heat up enough and prevent moisture from collecting), along with hopefully creating more even heating in the radiator.
The only thing I'm completely stumped with is just how large of a radiator could be used before you see diminishing returns. Obviously you'd want the largest you could realistically use before reaching that point for the sake of scavenging as much heat as you can.
my thoughts exactly, i would like to try a big cast iron radiator.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Im just planning on gearing up a "sand battery". Basically I'll be mounting the heater high enough that I can put a tank directly underneath it, run a couple of coils of exhaust pipe within the sand filled tank, then out through the wall. All of my exhaust pipe will be running downwards and the total length probably won't be much more than about 6 or 7 feet. ANY amount of heat captured by this method is money saved and increased efficiency. 👍
I have a brand new, never used but outdated 20lb propane tank, will cut the top off so i can coil the exhaust through it, drill a hole for the outlet, fill it with sand, replace the top, etc, etc....
sounds great, good luck cheers andy
It would be interesting to see how you fitted the 24mm exhaust to the radiator as they usually have 15mm tube
thanks for your comment
i hadent put the valves in the radiator holes. so the hole was perfect.
thanks for your comment, kindest regards andy
This is amazing, please try to keep
It all on the angle downwards., also , fume exhaust and moisture traps the carbon , do setup a maintenance window to check how clogged the radiator is
good idea.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Very interesting, Can you tell use how you made the connections to the radiator?
Yes, of course, the pipe went over the radiator neck and with a jubilee clip. kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
I would think a zig zag of exhaust pipe with cooling fins would be more efficient. I like the concept.
Great idea
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
One guy ran 4 metres of flexy exhaust pipe.The outlet was still too hot to create water vapour (steam) in the exhaust gas.
I Russia where they have done this on several channels they used cast radiators as the exhaust condensate is quite acrid - they claim up to 1.5 kw of heat can be recuperated at full power
Maybe you could coil a small diameter pipe around the exhaust pipe and pump water through it to the radiator !
Hi again.
Another good idea is to get a little temperature machine to see how much the room warms up and how fast.
yes , i must do that. although the garage is not that well insulated.
thanks for watching. kind regards andy
Keep up the good work, it's a cracking idea to make more use of the lost heat/energy.
Thanks, will do!
and thank you for watching.
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
@@andyfireblade yes I did, I'm waiting to see whether it's going to be any cheaper to heat a home with 1😃👍
You can get something that comes in a tube like a silicone gun thats for sealing up industrial furnaces (EFW Plant) I think it goes to 800c you should seal up the exhaust. It may be ok if your room has a positive room pressure, if it goes negative with the likes of doors opening you risk drawing fumes back in.
Love your set up. Keep an eye out for corrosion in the rad and keep detectors near by
brillian thanks.
thanks for looking.
did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
Cool setup but from the angle I can see on the exhaust, it rises up to join the rad, meaning most liquid in the pipe is going to sit under the inlet to the rad
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
This is much better solution as the exhaust gasses and the air flows against each other. This is the most effective method of heat exchange. I have a 🙋 how did you connector the exhaust pipe into the radiator. Could you describe it more precisely please? Maybe some sort video?
the flexy pipe goes over the neck of the radiator, then clamped with a jubilee clip
kindest regards andy
Thanks for sharing your experiment, great video. I wonder if a fan behind would be good.
hello richard
that would be a great idea!
in the very hot corner, cooling the rad and spreading the heat around the room.
brilliant, thats why i lover you guys comments
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Thats a genius idea 👍🏼
Glad you think so!
Hi Andy.....I think this is a great idea. What is the size of the radiator? Do you think you would it be better to use a larger one? What connectors did you use to attach the exhaust pipe to the radiator.
hello john, yes this is just a small 500mm x 400mm i think.
it was just the cheapest one at selco builders yard. for the experiment.
a much bigger cast iron one would be better.
i have been told that you can heat the biggest rad with one of these.
did you see my other videos, i have one of these heaters heating my house.
kindest regards andy
Great idea we need to innovate with all exhaust transfer of heat
yes!....
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
you could also heat up water in a big insulated tank and use this stored heat (use water, heating the room), additional to the radiator (first heating up water, then to big radiator)
Great idea, i would like to get an insulated tank.
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
A coil in a sand battery??
Add an STC 1000 or similar controller, they do 12v ones. Have the probe sensing the radiator. Add fans (on a plenum at the bottom of the radiator pushing air up the back of the radiator thru the fins) also 12v so computer fans. The stc needs to see 65c or so before switching the fans on. So you get an increase of air flow over the rad. This will again increase its efficiency.
Holding the fans off with the stc will allow the PSU to cope with the glow plug load etc.
STCs can have 2 probes, so you could in theory use the second one as a room thermostat, and control the heater with it, again adding efficiency.
hey tony, you know your stuff. thanks for watching and thanks for the great tips. kindest regards andy
Good man, this is exactly what I have been looking for. Thanks
Is there a follow up to this video in your playlists?.
A kind of long term use review.
Great video,seen a view vids on recycling exhaust gas for extra heat,yours looks the most original and effective.
thanks for watching, not a long term. but some similar in my other videos. please take a look at them, let me know what you think?
i prefer the one where i heat the water up in the radiator, i think that is better long term
cheers andy
It looks good but you have a trap on the exhaust between the heater and radiator id either place the heater higher or further from the radiator to straighten the pipe or shorten the pipe.
thanks cheers andy
Looks good - can you let me know what fitting you used to connect to the radiator ? I have a radiator sitting around so would be good to give this a test also!
i used car hose clamps, worm drive or jubilee brand
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Try a series of bends in the large pipe with a radiator at the end to keep the heat in the larger tube maybe heat sink on the top to put the hottest heat in the air while effective.
thank you for your comment
did you see my other heater vids,
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think,
cheers andy
You are on the right track. But, it would be better with a hose coil contraption? But if you rad works, that’s the way to go?
cheers andy
Should I have a heat gun and check that radiator?
i will get one
Tried this at the weekend but resulted in black exhaust smoke. Was a double radiator the same size as yours.Not sure if it was a back pressure problem or something else. Might try an inline exhaust fan to see if that helps. If anyone has any ideas I would be delighted to hear them. Cheers David
yeah, maybe because it is a double? flow problem?
let me know how you get on cheers andy
@@andyfireblade think you may be right. I deliberately went for a double so as not to reduce the flow. Have ordered a 3m extension and will try that next and look round for an older cast iron radiator with much greater flow. Cheers David
@@davidhobbs7891 yes , i am on the look out for an old cast iron one too.
i imagine with less restrictions inside. and gradually get hot and retain its heat. cheers andy
Interested to see how cold the exhaust is when it exits, gives a clue how much heat is being taken by the rad.
yes thats true.
it is cooler.
i will measure that
kindest regards andy
Awesome set up
Great idea
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Until he needs to clean the radiator that's now filled with soot, sure. It wouldn't have been an issue if this was a propane heater but this is burning diesel.
Hi Andy, great vid! 👍 How are you connecting the radiator to the exhaust pipes, please?
with hose clamps worm drive or jubilee clamp
Panel rads have a baffle fitted inside the bottom part. So connection at bottom opposite ends will allow the top to get hot but will also cause condensate to become trapped.
thats good to know, thanks andy
Looking good when I do mine I think I put a longer exhaust pipe just to dissipate the heat slightly before it reaches the radiator. Congratulations you didn't hang about on doing Mark 2
thats a good idea. thank you my friend, regards andy
there was nothing on the tele, hahaha
Andy, you need to slant it 45 degrees and fill the heater with water to just below the spill point, it will then absorb the heat and spread more effectively and allow gases to escape allowing more efficiency
thanks
You should put a PC Fan under the Radiator for better thermic and install a CO monitor next to the heater.
That's really amazing!
I wonder if you got one of those thermal electric fans that go on top of wood stoves if it would help to move some of that heat around the room a little better.
Great idea
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Wonder how good using a car radiator and pumping the exhaust gases through it and have a fan behind it.
good idea, cheers andy
That’s marvellous, I really appreciate your ingenuity.
If I may make a suggestion? I think that if you connect both the input and output pipes to the bottom of the rad then the rising hot fumes will heat more of the radiator than that peculiar top in and bottom out arrangement.
That would also improve the flow because the input will currently be fighting against the tendency of the hot fumes to rise.
I must say that I share some mentioned concerns about the exhaust fumes causing the mild steel rad to corrode from the inside.
thank you my friend
cheers andy xx
try the intake at the rad bottom & the exit at the top because as we all know hot air rises so the middle of the rad should benefit a little better ...your next experiment ..look forward to the results
i did this in another video, please have a look at my other videos.
cheers andy
Thanks nice video, So how many radiators can you attach to one of those diesel heaters , do you think you can attach about 5 or 6 radiators, and what is the fuel cost when compared to gas or electric for the year?
i dont think you could att more.
maybe a bigger cast iron one would be good?
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
very interesting andy good job
Glad you enjoyed it check out my other videos, cheer andy
You need cold air intake for the burner coming in from outside. Currently you are sucking in warm air from the room and burning diesel with it then sending it outside. Unless i am mistaken
yes, you are right.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
My plan is to pass the exhaust through a coil in an immersion heater which could then supply radiators throughout the house , don't know if it will work but figure its worth a try would also be supplying warm/hot water for house depending on how many radiators it has to supply
Sounds great!
@@andyfireblade will feed back here what results I get
@@theharshtruth1893 great
Always thought about running some pipe work from an exhaust whether it from a heater like that or even an open fire, have the heat from exhaust/burnt materials pass threw pipe work in my above ground pool, not sure how far exhaust gases would run horizontally before may become an issue, but as your getting quite a lot of heat as you show that you can’t even touch it suggests perhaps a straight length of stainless steel pipe running threw my pool water may just take the edge of it, the missus works in an outbuilding and we currently use electric panel heaters but are going to fit one of these heaters, as she works in there for 7-9hrs 5 days a week,,that’s would be a fair amount of spent heat passing threw our pool water, may just give this a bash. To me it’s all about trying different things that spent heat should be re used on something else,
I remember a workshop I worked in had these single tube type radiator bars running the length of walls and you couldn’t touch them they were so hot, that was the only source of heating and that workshop was always toasty.
good plan. yes stainless would be good and a wider bore to reduce back pressure.
please take a look at my other vids, let me know what you think?
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
Try positioning the heater so the fan will blow over the radiator also. Pick up a carbon monoxide detector also in case the radiator system develops a leak.
Great idea
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
great experiment and a success , thank you , I will keep this in mind.
So nice of you, thanks.
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
@@andyfireblade saw that one too , great job.
The reason for the moisture is the gases from the exhaust have cooled past the due point which means any moisture from the air prior to burning have started to condense back to water
thanks for the comment,
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on CFM of the fan.
I wonder if mounting the radiator at 45 degrees would help with removing condensation within the radiator as it can just flow out then along with the fumes. Just a thought 👍🏼.
yes thats true, or a slight tilt.
thanks for your comment.
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
just a thought you could use an old inter cooler as there is a lot more surface area on them and there made to cool air not let of heat from hot water
i use an inter cooler on another video,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Would be interesting to see that radiator on a thermal camera aswell, to see the heat moving through the rad and the temps it settles at.
yes, i would love to do that. but they are really expensive.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@andyfireblade yes they are not cheap unfortunately, even the camera phone attachments of them are expensive.
Heat always rises! (just look at our extreme weather!)
try placing the exhaust on the bottom, outlet to outdoor on top.
Actually, I run the exhaust indoors at only 5ppm (with a door open), for extra heat 'n warmth.
Specially that it's summer and hot weather makes it ideal for testing......
Placing the exhaust on the bottom, outlet to outdoor on top? Where should the condensate go? I think it is fine as it is, because pressure will push the heat down and through the system.
@@elbuggo The Heat should 'Vape' it mate. ;) Cheers! 👍
Wheres this 2kW figure coming from in the thumbnail?
i have a convection electric 2kw radiator, and is giving off the same amount of heat as it.
thanks for looking.
did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
@@andyfireblade based on what measurements?
I feel like you could be using a much bigger radiator here. I would be tempted though to try to coat the inside with something to protect from the condensate. If there is a suitable paint type coating one could fill the radiator up with it to ensure complete coating and then drain the excess and leave it at an angle to drip drain as it dries out over several days. Not sure what you would do with the leftovers 😂
good idea,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Interesting ! You may get condensation between the exhaust on the diesel heater side and radiator.
as the unit cools, it will pull moisture from outside to the last bit of heat source.
I wouldn't be worried about radiator to exterior side.
it would be nice if a person could find a dual core radiator. and fill one core with water. and core two as the exhaust side.
it would be like a water battery.
Great point! that is what was in my head, but it didnt come out until you said it, cheers andy
Would the water side be sealed?
I've always wanted to use one of these radiators to cool a pc.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
It’s louder than I thought it would be.
these are better placed other side of wall for noise, andy
I often thought about putting the exhust through an indirect cylinder and seeing if it would heat the water. Judging by your through a rad experiment I feel confident this could work and therefore a cheap hot/warm? water supply for off grid.
yes , please see my other vids www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Might make a good silencer as well.
good point!
there must be some pressure drop , I wonder how much it affects efficiency of the heating
good point, i would think it must have some effect
cheers andy
Wonder if you had 22mm copper pipe and bent it like a towel heater radiator and heated it from the top and the condensation out of the bottom
i did this in another video, please take a look at my other vids.
cheers andy
If you have the hot air gases going in at bottom then out at top be more efficient as heat rises don’t it
Great video, do you have a link for the radiator? It's not working.
thank you my friend
there are a few here, but the prices have gone up slightly.
amzn.to/4a1oqkV
cheers andy
What about running the exhaust through or around a small water tank (separated) and have a pump circulating the water in the tank.i Imagine the radiator would stay hot much longer.
Or through sand as a sand battery - that would be even better (unless you wanted hot water). Sand can hold heat for hours.
yes, long term, i think thats the way to go. good comment. regards andy th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html this is the other one in the house.
This is the same system used to heat tipper truck bodies in Canada, Russia etc due the muck sticking on the bottom...great idea but you need to plumb it sightly differently to get the most efficiency...put the exhaust to the bottom of the radiator...just the fact the heat raises! Do you have a thermal imagining camera to see how the heat moves through the radiator...?? What is the exhaust gas heat, if its around 30 degree that perfect so that the condensation burns off, higher you need a larger radiator etc.. also you do need to put a tap on the bottom of the radiator for the excess condensation to be removed, it will build up...But its a great idea....you could go one more step and get hot water from it as well as a heat exchanger..but thats a far bit more engineering......signed up to your channel
thats great , thank you my friend. some really good ideas there . i will give them a go
cheers andy
Maybe wrap the exhaust coming off the heater with Header wrap that race car drivers use.... Keep the heat in that pipe until it gets to the radiator.
good idea!
did you see my other heater vids,
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think,
cheers andy
I love this idea! I've a quick question, I've searched Amazon and other local sites for diesel 8kw heaters. I'm finding heaters that all look the same and have the same descriptions but ranging in price from €100 - €250+. How do I know which one is best? Thanks
hello martin, i am seeing these on ebay from £80-90 please see my other videos, if you check out the unboxing video or the red one, it is one of these cheap ones. it is really good and has a good remote control.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Love to see that heating a hot water cylinder
yes, me too. i am looking out for one!
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Very good. I was wondering if you ran that exhaust pipe through a metal tank of sand if you could capture longer lasting heat .
Great point!
like a storage heater?
i have another one heating my house up, it is outside in a box.
with a 4" hole in the wall piping the hot air in. heres a link if you would like to see it th-cam.com/channels/3sYHaAZtJI-vrD64K7Qe9w.html kind regards andy
A radiant heater is OK in the house but it doesn't give off much heat with a fast flow of hot gas .......you will need a heat exchanger that has a fan and a core .......like a car's radiator system but with exhaust gas and air flow......the inlet exhaust gas temperature and the final outlet exhaust temperature will prove its efficiency.
Hi Andy , just fitted my heater in the garage nightmare to prime but sorted now , how are people fitting the control unit ? Double sided tape ? Had loads of smoke on start up but clean now and silencer isnt making any difference sound wise but fitted. Exhaust and air pipes at the moment go outside through some luckily existing holes . Andy all this is new to me and think am worried about everything lol , even put a flag stone at the end of the exhaust. Checked the cavity of the wall and cant see any rock wool . Andy bless you if you reply to all of this message 😂😂
i was totally the same, i was worried that it was going to blow up. the sound of these building up, like a jet engine is initially scary. yes smoke on start up is normal . and the initial prime problem is normal too. the exhausts are not really worth bothering with, but if you are resourceful you should be able to dampen or deflect the noise somehow. you can use a motorcycle exhaust. when i have the control unit separate to the machine, i used a couple of self tapping screws.
it sounds like you have served your apprenticeship now, you can now start to enjoy the rewards for you hard work, and you will be able to leave this on for hours without worrying cheers andy
@@andyfireblade cheers Andy
Great job mate really helpful!
Glad it helped
What about a car radiator? That should help with the centre cold spot and you could even mount a fan to blow into the room! Loads of 2nd hand around and I've seen a new custom built aluminium (not sure if that's a suitable material) for just £30.
thats a brilliant idea
cheers andy
would've thought in the bottom and out the top would've yielded the best results, moisture would be vaporised out of the system anyway due to the heat.
good point, thanks andy
I would put some computer fans at the bottom to force air upward faster so it recovers even more heat and also to not cook the paint on the radiator because those gases are toxic.
thanks for looking.
did you see my other heater videos www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
Let’s look at some simple Physics/Chemistry.
Supposed 5kW (likely provides circa 4kW of warmed air), running at only half speed (H3) setting (~2kW) is very unlikely to be providing the ‘more than 2kW’ from exhaust heat recovery - it would be virtually all the energy input to the heater!
Temperature is not the same as energy.
Fuels contain some sulphur which will burn to suphur dioxide/trioxide and dissolve in any liquid water to form sulphurous/ic acid which will dissolve both mild steel and copper.😮
Exhaust gases should be kept above dew point or condensation will occur. Above 100 degrees Celsius, at the exhaust outlet, would alleviate the condensation problem, but restrict the amount of heat recovery from those exhaust gases to approx 2/3rds of the total available. Cold surfaces in a household radiator will always allow condensation within the flow path.
Apart from the risks of eventual exhaust gas leaks (these heaters are not certified for indoor use because of potentially lethal CO poisoning), an EGR cooler from a diesel engine with exhaust gas recirculation would, I think, be a better/safer way to recover any reasonable amount of the exhaust heat available.
But, as always, there will be those that ignore (or haven’t a clue of) the safety, to try to extract a little extra heat, so will carry on regardless.
i would have thought a exhaust heat exchanger would be a better way to do this, surely any resistance on the main exhaust outlet would cause the exhaust gasses to be forced out elsewhere as they aint the best made things?
yes you are right.it would be . or using heating water to go round the radiator. certainly for long term use. the gases dont really pressure up in there. there are fairly free flowing. but thanks for your comment. th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html regards andy
You could probably heat two of those radiators with the heat coming out of that exhaust!
Also I’d be curious if running this in sub zero outside temperatures if ice buildup around the exhaust would ever become an issue?
it would heat a bigger radiator, maybe a bigger cast iron one would be good.
the exhaust is too hot for it to freeze up.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Cool! One question though. If you read the manual, they say that you cannot obstruct or lengthen the exhaust pipe due to back pressure, inefficient burning etc. Causing waste buildup in the burner. How is this effecting the burner after a few months? Thanks
your right, but i havent used this long term.
did you see my other videos? www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Great idea Andy and one I feel will be further improved. As always, food for thought.
Absolutely
kind regards andy , did you see my other heater , heating the house.
th-cam.com/video/6rQAo8lSLHY/w-d-xo.html
My gas whole home generator box when it's running even though exhaust is vented gets to around 40c from the air blowing through the engine. Using exhaust gas as a radiator is genius
Great idea, I would though recommend to pay attention to the exhaust pipe slope, the highest point should be the exit point from the diesel heater itself then the lowest point should be the far end opening (outdoor), to make sure that all fluid condensation is out neither gathered in the radiator nor back to the diesel heater!
Thanks for the info!
Radiator looks nice too … what is the brand name or type? The link has expired. Thanks 🔥
thank you for your comment .
it is just a basic cheap brand.
did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
What a racket it makes 😂
hello my friend
yes, these are quiet noisy. you have inspired me to do a video on the noise, so that people who are thinking of buying one understand.
cheers andy
How are you planning to clean this radiator of soot? The channels are quite small and can get clogged quite easily.
not sure, please give comments. best way to clean.
thanks andy
@@andyfireblade I think the best solution would just be soaking the inside with vinegar and hot water for a day then drain it.