Probably if you run a 48v system best to add a secondary 48v alternator just to charge the leisure batteries, dual alternator brackets are quite common and 48v units can be had. Just need to place a cutout interlock on it that removes the excitation for when its not connected to a battery.
Great video. Can I connect my Victron DC to DC converter directly to my alternator vs my starter battery? My van has engine in the back, and starter battery in the front while my lithium aux battery is in the back. I'd like to avoid running wires from my starter battery in the front to the back. I was thinking that I should be able to because in theory, voltage at my alternator should be the same at my starter battery ... but that's theory.
I have gone directly from the positive terminal on the alternator with no issues. Obviously the starter battery is connected as well but as you say, it's at the wrong end!
Thanks for the video and the clarification. I just bought the Victron 48/12 -30A (360W) DC-DC converter. The manual says that an external fuse is required. I cannot find information about size and type of fuse to use. I will be using 6 AWG as recommended. Thanks !
Thanks for video! I have one question. Which one I can use the power the inveter 150w. I have li-ion 3s battery and my inverter stop work 10.5v low voltage. I want to use the battery to 9v . Is it possible?
Hello do you want me to check this with Victron as it is an unusual setup if so could you reply here after emailing the email in the description of @AdamKirbySystems as I have to cc you in to the Victron request
My victron dc dc is skipping bulk phase I found forums alone many others having the same issue. This didn’t happen when I first got it. Ran it for only a few trips then started doing it. Things useless now. Anyone figure out then solution? I’m thinking just go with a different brand all together.
So going through all your videos. Can i just use the existing 12V+ that goes from my truck to the trailer through the factory rear connector for my D+ signal? my 2022 Ford already only turns this 12V+ "on" when the engine is running AND if a trailer is connected. And yes, this 30A capable 12V is same circuit as I will power into the DC-DC Victron Charger. Or alternative idea, is using the trailer lights circuit. then D+ will simply activate whenever my trailer lights are on. Again, thank you for great content.
I bought a 12 12 30 isolated Victron for my Land Rover. However i want to enable the victron to be bipassed when winching so i can get max amps from my two batteries. I used to have a VSR relay wired via a switch to enable this and it also enabled jump starting of the main battery in emergency. Is it possible to have such a set up with the Victron as i do like the fact its topping up my second battery much faster than the VSR did. Thank you
i have a 24 volt system on my boat and require 12 volt my worry is if the unit fails i loose the 12 volt supply is there a way to wire in a back up so if it fails it will switch to a 2nd system .Also i just bought the victron buck boost 100amp for the cost i could of got 3 50 amp buck boosts could i have just installed 2 and save 500 and then would have redundency
An easy way to provide some limited amount of backup is to install a small 12V battery. A 25Ah motorcycle battery would do great, it is very small and easy to install, and available for under $100. The converter keeps the battery fully charged, the battery provides a little additional capacity for surge loads -- and if the converter fails, you have several hours of power for critical loads. Of course, you won't KNOW that the converter failed until the battery dies.....
If I just wanted to be able to charge my 12v lead acid with my 36v lithium troller, would one of these 48v converters work? I don't see a dc to dc charger thats over 24v. I just want to be able to run boat lights and electronics at night (engines off, not using troller) without draining my 12v starter battery.
@@UKsystems yes, still trying to figure this out. Thinking the only way to do this, is run a Victron 48/12v 30a DC to DC isolated 30a charger so that there is some amperage control based on the 12v battery charging needs? And if I need more than 500 watts, I can parallel the dc to dc multiple pair of chargers?
@@fvRodRunner I would recommend putting in charge parameters. I believe this unit will support that but I would recommend checking with the Victor dealer that you will purchase it from as they need to give you support. If asked I can always check documentation they make available to sell these units I am an expert in these particular ones.
Got a 12v wind turbine for my van but the charge controller won’t work with LiFeP04, would one of these wired after the controller charge my battery safely?
Re the Converter, you’re missing the point. It is designed to provide dead steady 12v for your van electric kit like fridge, fan, diesel heater or any 12v device that can’t tolerate any voltage above 12v. So when you charge your leisure battery, the voltage across the battery rises to say 14.2-14.7 volts and if that is the source of your 12v system in your van some 12v devices may be adversely affected.. The dc-dc charger on the other hand is designed to be connected to the alternator/starter battery and configured to provide 13v or above to charge lithium or lead acid batteries.
I cannot find an automatic switch that handles DC to DC 48 v array 100 amps I am not using an inverter, I have two 48v solar battery array, I want to use one as a back up, the only item I have hooked to it is connected directly to the MPPT charger. I would like to switch automatically one battery power bank to another when the voltage drop, the switch’s I found don’t handle 100amp input. Any suggestions how to find? I don’t want inverters at all, it would not be necessary for my application, it would only add problems. Thank you
How would it be possible to simply charge a 48V LiFePO4 battery from a 12V LiFePO4 battery? And I don't want to use a 12V DC/AC inverter + 48V charger and waste energy on DC/AC conversions. Would it be possible somehow? I like on Portable Solar Stations is that if it connected a battery in the volt range to the solar charging input, it is possible to charge a Portable Power Station this way (there are many videos about this), but I would use the same option for a DIY solar system. The goal would be to be able to solar charge a smaller, lighter 12V LiFePO4 battery somewhere else like the main 48V system and then at night or on bad sunny days charge the main 48V system from the lower voltage battery = transfer energy from the 12V battery to the 48V battery. Victron solar chargers need an input voltage 5V higher than the battery voltage to charge, so they cannot be used. How about using the MPPT 100/20 with boost step up converter? The MPPT 100/20 can charge all 12/24/48V batteries, so it could solar charge 12V battery somewhere else and then use the same MPPT 100/20 together with a boost step up converter with a manually adjustable output to charge 48V battery in the main system. The MPPT 100/20 will think it has a DC output 5V higher than the empty 48V battery up to its maximum solar panel voltage of 100V and will transfer power from a charged 12V battery to the empty 48V battery just like a Portable Solar Power Stations with connected a battery in the volt range to the solar charging input Boost inverter parameters should be: Input current: 20A - rated current of MPPT 100/20 Input voltage: 10,8-14,6V or more - from discharged to charged 12V battery Manually adjustable output voltage: 40V - 100V Discharged 48V battery has a voltage of 40V+5V=where the MPPT should start charging up to 100V, which is the maximum the MPPT can charge. A manually adjustable output voltage would be needed to not bring full power to the MPPT right away, but to simulate gradually increasing sunshine, where it would slowly manually increase from 40V, where it would not charge yet, to 40V+5-8V where it would start charging to the full 100V on both devices. What do you think about this, will it work, is it safe? Do you have a better idea how to do it? Thank you in advance for the answer I apologize for the long comment
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Probably if you run a 48v system best to add a secondary 48v alternator just to charge the leisure batteries, dual alternator brackets are quite common and 48v units can be had. Just need to place a cutout interlock on it that removes the excitation for when its not connected to a battery.
Greetings from Australia. Thanks for the video. It clearly explains the difference between the two units.
Hi, can run tho dc to dc chargers in series? Thank you.
Great video. Can I connect my Victron DC to DC converter directly to my alternator vs my starter battery? My van has engine in the back, and starter battery in the front while my lithium aux battery is in the back. I'd like to avoid running wires from my starter battery in the front to the back. I was thinking that I should be able to because in theory, voltage at my alternator should be the same at my starter battery ... but that's theory.
I have gone directly from the positive terminal on the alternator with no issues. Obviously the starter battery is connected as well but as you say, it's at the wrong end!
Thanks for the video and the clarification. I just bought the Victron 48/12 -30A (360W) DC-DC converter. The manual says that an external fuse is required. I cannot find information about size and type of fuse to use. I will be using 6 AWG as recommended. Thanks !
It depends locally as some places require different ones
Thanks for video! I have one question. Which one I can use the power the inveter 150w. I have li-ion 3s battery and my inverter stop work 10.5v low voltage. I want to use the battery to 9v . Is it possible?
Hello do you want me to check this with Victron as it is an unusual setup if so could you reply here after emailing the email in the description of @AdamKirbySystems as I have to cc you in to the Victron request
Now I want a dc charger and a shunt. Saving hard.
My victron dc dc is skipping bulk phase I found forums alone many others having the same issue. This didn’t happen when I first got it. Ran it for only a few trips then started doing it. Things useless now. Anyone figure out then solution? I’m thinking just go with a different brand all together.
So going through all your videos. Can i just use the existing 12V+ that goes from my truck to the trailer through the factory rear connector for my D+ signal? my 2022 Ford already only turns this 12V+ "on" when the engine is running AND if a trailer is connected. And yes, this 30A capable 12V is same circuit as I will power into the DC-DC Victron Charger. Or alternative idea, is using the trailer lights circuit. then D+ will simply activate whenever my trailer lights are on. Again, thank you for great content.
I bought a 12 12 30 isolated Victron for my Land Rover. However i want to enable the victron to be bipassed when winching so i can get max amps from my two batteries. I used to have a VSR relay wired via a switch to enable this and it also enabled jump starting of the main battery in emergency. Is it possible to have such a set up with the Victron as i do like the fact its topping up my second battery much faster than the VSR did. Thank you
Stopping charging can be done in a few ways do you still need help
i have a 24 volt system on my boat and require 12 volt my worry is if the unit fails i loose the 12 volt supply is there a way to wire in a back up so if it fails it will switch to a 2nd system .Also i just bought the victron buck boost 100amp for the cost i could of got 3 50 amp buck boosts could i have just installed 2 and save 500 and then would have redundency
Victron gear is very reliable
An easy way to provide some limited amount of backup is to install a small 12V battery. A 25Ah motorcycle battery would do great, it is very small and easy to install, and available for under $100. The converter keeps the battery fully charged, the battery provides a little additional capacity for surge loads -- and if the converter fails, you have several hours of power for critical loads. Of course, you won't KNOW that the converter failed until the battery dies.....
If I just wanted to be able to charge my 12v lead acid with my 36v lithium troller, would one of these 48v converters work? I don't see a dc to dc charger thats over 24v. I just want to be able to run boat lights and electronics at night (engines off, not using troller) without draining my 12v starter battery.
Are you still looking I can help if you are
@@UKsystems yes, still trying to figure this out. Thinking the only way to do this, is run a Victron 48/12v 30a DC to DC isolated 30a charger so that there is some amperage control based on the 12v battery charging needs? And if I need more than 500 watts, I can parallel the dc to dc multiple pair of chargers?
@@fvRodRunner I would recommend putting in charge parameters. I believe this unit will support that but I would recommend checking with the Victor dealer that you will purchase it from as they need to give you support. If asked I can always check documentation they make available to sell these units I am an expert in these particular ones.
Got a 12v wind turbine for my van but the charge controller won’t work with LiFeP04, would one of these wired after the controller charge my battery safely?
Possibly
Re the Converter, you’re missing the point. It is designed to provide dead steady 12v for your van electric kit like fridge, fan, diesel heater or any 12v device that can’t tolerate any voltage above 12v.
So when you charge your leisure battery, the voltage across the battery rises to say 14.2-14.7 volts and if that is the source of your 12v system in your van some 12v devices may be adversely affected..
The dc-dc charger on the other hand is designed to be connected to the alternator/starter battery and configured to provide 13v or above to charge lithium or lead acid batteries.
So, with the dc to dc charger, you can set your charge current below 30 amps?
Yes
@@UKsystems even with the 30 amp model? I've been searching for an answer about the 30 amp specifically, and was told no current adjustment
@@jamesfalvey77 with a gc device I believe it may be psssible I’ll check tomorrow
I cannot find an automatic switch that handles DC to DC 48 v array 100 amps
I am not using an inverter,
I have two 48v solar battery array, I want to use one as a back up, the only item I have hooked to it is connected directly to the MPPT charger.
I would like to switch automatically one battery power bank to another when the voltage drop, the switch’s I found don’t handle 100amp input.
Any suggestions how to find?
I don’t want inverters at all, it would not be necessary for my application, it would only add problems.
Thank you
Are you still looking I can help if
good explaination, thanks
How would it be possible to simply charge a 48V LiFePO4 battery from a 12V LiFePO4 battery?
And I don't want to use a 12V DC/AC inverter + 48V charger and waste energy on DC/AC conversions. Would it be possible somehow?
I like on Portable Solar Stations is that if it connected a battery in the volt range to the solar charging input, it is possible to charge a Portable Power Station this way (there are many videos about this), but I would use the same option for a DIY solar system. The goal would be to be able to solar charge a smaller, lighter 12V LiFePO4 battery somewhere else like the main 48V system and then at night or on bad sunny days charge the main 48V system from the lower voltage battery = transfer energy from the 12V battery to the 48V battery. Victron solar chargers need an input voltage 5V higher than the battery voltage to charge, so they cannot be used.
How about using the MPPT 100/20 with boost step up converter? The MPPT 100/20 can charge all 12/24/48V batteries, so it could solar charge 12V battery somewhere else and then use the same MPPT 100/20 together with a boost step up converter with a manually adjustable output to charge 48V battery in the main system. The MPPT 100/20 will think it has a DC output 5V higher than the empty 48V battery up to its maximum solar panel voltage of 100V and will transfer power from a charged 12V battery to the empty 48V battery just like a Portable Solar Power Stations with connected a battery in the volt range to the solar charging input
Boost inverter parameters should be:
Input current: 20A - rated current of MPPT 100/20
Input voltage: 10,8-14,6V or more - from discharged to charged 12V battery
Manually adjustable output voltage: 40V - 100V
Discharged 48V battery has a voltage of 40V+5V=where the MPPT should start charging up to 100V, which is the maximum the MPPT can charge. A manually adjustable output voltage would be needed to not bring full power to the MPPT right away, but to simulate gradually increasing sunshine, where it would slowly manually increase from 40V, where it would not charge yet, to 40V+5-8V where it would start charging to the full 100V on both devices.
What do you think about this, will it work, is it safe?
Do you have a better idea how to do it?
Thank you in advance for the answer
I apologize for the long comment
Do do you want contact info as my answer is longer than the comments
Again one of those totally useless videos
Glad you're enjoying our videos, Peter. We appreciate your support!
Well you are meant to ask your dealer or complete training so you are the one with the issue
AGAIN one of those Useless videos
Not at all. Get a life.
Totally Useless 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Well did you ask your dealer or do training that is the proper way to
@@codiecarroll735 SMF