Surprised you didn’t get more comments! Thank you 🙏🏼 for breaking down the issue with your journey. I recently sent my 2012 journey into the dodge dealership for 2,600 $ to get a multitude of things fixed. Two weeks ago and now it won’t turn off, back windshield wiper wipes, all controls in car do not work, radiator fan does not work. I had to turn off car by undoing battery terminals. It does have 204,000 miles on it but honestly I feel like they may have jacked up the TIPM connectors or something.
Thank you for watching. I think many people get frustrated and dump these cars. Hence less comments. In the end, I did have to install a remote battery kill switch to over come the parasitic draw. ☹️. I think I spent $300+ on a TPIM repair that didn't work. Did nothing, no change. I think they rushed repair and didn't look for anything wrong.
@@gphilpot1 I hope that’s not the case for my journey as it is our primary source of transportation 😬. Thank you again for your wisdom and experience on the matter
I've got this same car and the door controls on the driver's door only half work. The mirror adjustments blow the fuze, the power windows on the front doors don't work and the lock/unlock don't work. On the same controller, the rear windows go up and down. I've replaced the door controller and that made no difference. Any idea where to start diagnosis? Is there a wiring schematic for the drivers side door controller so I can start to look for a short somewhere?
In some cases the wires get shorted at the hinge. There will be a rubber boot full of wires. In some cases, there is a plug under the foot well after the door wires enter into the cab of the car. If you were to get lucky to have one, I will start there. Remember the hinge wires bend a lot with time. Have you already inspected the wires in the door itself? Some time they get water damage and the insulation corrodes off. If you can get a Chiltons or Haynes manual, it will have the wiring diagrams in the back. I know AutoZone can order manuals or search online.
Side note, I ended up having to install a remote kill switch to over come the dead battery (drain) issue. I plan to send the TIPM out again for repair/recheck
@@gphilpot1 Yeah, I've had a kill switch in my 2010 Dodge Journey since 2015. Something else is going on with it now and it's not charging while running. I had 3 shops look at it, in 2013 -15, and was told there was nothing wrong with it. Lol owning this car has been an adventure.
Dont get me started on the canned bus tracking down a parasitic draw that buried the battery in one nite well the passenger assit/hands free module fused circuit was pulling a constant 5v yanked that fuse out because the radio head unit is in operable and everything is connected through it and shit that dont work isn't allowing the module to completely shut down electrical draw. So assanine.
I think yours was a bad TIPM caused by shotty work someone else did.But the majority of the problems with the battery issues on Dodge Journeys is the ground wire connected to the firewall need to be cleaned thoroughly to get a good connection.
Agree. But the shotty work was done because of initial corrosion issues. I did replace all the ground wires with 4AWG cables with crimped ends and done right. Also replaced all the positive cables as well. All connection points were cleaned to bare metal and 8AWG jumpers installed for additional groundinf points. I was praying that was our issue, but it wasn't. But at least I know where I stand with all the connections. Ended up installing a remote battery disconnect. Also known as a vehicle disabler.
@@gphilpot1 Did you put dielectric grease on the connections? If not ,after a few days or weeks rust and corrosion will form once again.Did the disabler solve the problem.
from someone whos repairing the same garbage as we speak.. stop buying a dodge and you wont ever have this issue again xD... GM also went with Canbus on everything.. the one im working on is a normal start and run 2009 it has no tail lights, no interior lights no courtesy lights, no turn signals, half the dash lights, intermittent door locks and it was actually eay to diagnose the TIPM as what failed on this one.. i just conntected my OTC programmer and told the car though canbus to turn the lights on i can see the signal to the TIPM to turn them on but the module is not responding... as for the connectors your mechanic used that you so much enjoyed to blast most people dont want to pay my hourly wage for me to redo the harness the same way im $65 an hour to repair those harness's im also ASE certified i dont use made in china low heat band connectors i use proper automotive waterpoof heatshrink that comes in a 50 foot roll and buy brand new pigtail ends from the manufacturer..... if i find theres a bad signal wire they pay me my normal rate and i run a new wire and do the exact same connection and they DO NOT FALL OFF they are loose because you have taken the connector off the blade, the owner was not going to pay dodges prices to buy a reel of 500 ends for $750 when i probably do harness repaires maybe twice a year the pigtail was almost $60.. last harness repair was on a 2018 GMC silverado where half the fusebox connectors melted. tracked and repaired the harness to the fusebox (all pigtails) the BCM which had a burnout on one of the ports (replaced 2 pigtails) and 5 hour run tested it with a full system diagnostic in total it was just over $3000 similar instance with another car they didnt want the full work and just wanted me to get the vehicle running and driveable.. they signed a disclaimer i did the work it was $290 so yeah dont always blame the mechanic because im sure the next person who gets that quickfix vehicle may think the same thing.. oh also the 2018 the mass damage was caused by a "single ground wire" behind the dashboard that broke free and the truck was pulling a ground from the positives of other circuits which in turn overloaded/shorted/burned parts.
Surprised you didn’t get more comments! Thank you 🙏🏼 for breaking down the issue with your journey.
I recently sent my 2012 journey into the dodge dealership for 2,600 $ to get a multitude of things fixed. Two weeks ago and now it won’t turn off, back windshield wiper wipes, all controls in car do not work, radiator fan does not work. I had to turn off car by undoing battery terminals.
It does have 204,000 miles on it but honestly I feel like they may have jacked up the TIPM connectors or something.
Thank you for watching. I think many people get frustrated and dump these cars. Hence less comments.
In the end, I did have to install a remote battery kill switch to over come the parasitic draw. ☹️. I think I spent $300+ on a TPIM repair that didn't work. Did nothing, no change. I think they rushed repair and didn't look for anything wrong.
@@gphilpot1 I hope that’s not the case for my journey as it is our primary source of transportation 😬. Thank you again for your wisdom and experience on the matter
Search Remote Battery Disconnect from Amazon. Maybe this Summer I will make a follow video.
@@gphilpot1 you should ! Great content!
Thank you for your reply. I forgot to thank you for sharing this great information.
I have a 2011 Journey, the TIPM is a little different than that one. I pulled it out but it's all anclosed on the bottom. I can't get to the plugs
Wonder if this is an attempt to keep water off/out of the TIPM.
I've got this same car and the door controls on the driver's door only half work. The mirror adjustments blow the fuze, the power windows on the front doors don't work and the lock/unlock don't work. On the same controller, the rear windows go up and down. I've replaced the door controller and that made no difference. Any idea where to start diagnosis? Is there a wiring schematic for the drivers side door controller so I can start to look for a short somewhere?
In some cases the wires get shorted at the hinge. There will be a rubber boot full of wires. In some cases, there is a plug under the foot well after the door wires enter into the cab of the car. If you were to get lucky to have one, I will start there. Remember the hinge wires bend a lot with time.
Have you already inspected the wires in the door itself? Some time they get water damage and the insulation corrodes off.
If you can get a Chiltons or Haynes manual, it will have the wiring diagrams in the back. I know AutoZone can order manuals or search online.
Thanks good info
Side note, I ended up having to install a remote kill switch to over come the dead battery (drain) issue. I plan to send the TIPM out again for repair/recheck
@@gphilpot1 Yeah, I've had a kill switch in my 2010 Dodge Journey since 2015. Something else is going on with it now and it's not charging while running.
I had 3 shops look at it, in 2013 -15, and was told there was nothing wrong with it. Lol owning this car has been an adventure.
@@cjsampsonite71 a journey ! 😂
Dont get me started on the canned bus tracking down a parasitic draw that buried the battery in one nite well the passenger assit/hands free module fused circuit was pulling a constant 5v yanked that fuse out because the radio head unit is in operable and everything is connected through it and shit that dont work isn't allowing the module to completely shut down electrical draw. So assanine.
@@Jon-O. These things can be a nightmare for electric gremlins.
I think yours was a bad TIPM caused by shotty work someone else did.But the majority of the problems with the battery issues on Dodge Journeys is the ground wire connected to the firewall need to be cleaned thoroughly to get a good connection.
Agree. But the shotty work was done because of initial corrosion issues.
I did replace all the ground wires with 4AWG cables with crimped ends and done right. Also replaced all the positive cables as well. All connection points were cleaned to bare metal and 8AWG jumpers installed for additional groundinf points. I was praying that was our issue, but it wasn't. But at least I know where I stand with all the connections.
Ended up installing a remote battery disconnect. Also known as a vehicle disabler.
@@gphilpot1 Did you put dielectric grease on the connections? If not ,after a few days or weeks rust and corrosion will form once again.Did the disabler solve the problem.
Can’t hear bad audio
That stinks. The file was good when I did it. Guess the upload stumbled. Thanks
Bro you made a good video.....but your recording have some issue. Keep it up.
Yeah, it happened when it got uploaded to YT. Unfortunately I delete the video when they are done 😢
Audio is terrible 😞
Yeah, I don't know what happened but I had it all done and buttoned up when I realized.😕
from someone whos repairing the same garbage as we speak.. stop buying a dodge and you wont ever have this issue again xD... GM also went with Canbus on everything.. the one im working on is a normal start and run 2009 it has no tail lights, no interior lights no courtesy lights, no turn signals, half the dash lights, intermittent door locks and it was actually eay to diagnose the TIPM as what failed on this one.. i just conntected my OTC programmer and told the car though canbus to turn the lights on i can see the signal to the TIPM to turn them on but the module is not responding... as for the connectors your mechanic used that you so much enjoyed to blast most people dont want to pay my hourly wage for me to redo the harness the same way im $65 an hour to repair those harness's im also ASE certified i dont use made in china low heat band connectors i use proper automotive waterpoof heatshrink that comes in a 50 foot roll and buy brand new pigtail ends from the manufacturer..... if i find theres a bad signal wire they pay me my normal rate and i run a new wire and do the exact same connection and they DO NOT FALL OFF they are loose because you have taken the connector off the blade, the owner was not going to pay dodges prices to buy a reel of 500 ends for $750 when i probably do harness repaires maybe twice a year the pigtail was almost $60.. last harness repair was on a 2018 GMC silverado where half the fusebox connectors melted. tracked and repaired the harness to the fusebox (all pigtails) the BCM which had a burnout on one of the ports (replaced 2 pigtails) and 5 hour run tested it with a full system diagnostic in total it was just over $3000 similar instance with another car they didnt want the full work and just wanted me to get the vehicle running and driveable.. they signed a disclaimer i did the work it was $290 so yeah dont always blame the mechanic because im sure the next person who gets that quickfix vehicle may think the same thing.. oh also the 2018 the mass damage was caused by a "single ground wire" behind the dashboard that broke free and the truck was pulling a ground from the positives of other circuits which in turn overloaded/shorted/burned parts.
Getting harder and harder to troubleshoot these machines for sure.