I use Mobil 1 20w50 in my Sportster. Mobil 1 is a true group IV oil unlike most other synthetics that are group III. Thanks for the video. Always enjoy them.
Thanks for the lesson, my bike requires full synthetic oil so that what I use. If the manual says it I use it! I also change the oil at the end of the riding season and also have a complete inspection done as well. Better safe and knowing than to pretend nothing is wrong. Good topic.
Super good info. I heard an auto mechanic on the radio talk about the old folks who live in Sun City and they put very few miles on their car each year. So they might think to do an oil change say every 2 years. He said don't do that. Many motorcycles are ridden 2,000 to 4,000 miles a year, as we know. I might ride about 3,000 miles a year. I change my oil 2 times a year. Just speaking for myself. Enjoy. PS, if and when you add antifreeze to your bike, do not use the kind that has some additives that can damage your water pump and/or the seals. Read your manual on that !!!!!!!
+dks13827 Absolutely. As with any fluids, one should check the manual. I will be flushing the cooling system this year (regular maintenance) and will be using a type safe for aluminum motorcycle engines. And yes, oil breaks down over time even without use. Depending on the brand and quality of the oil, it should be changed after 3, 6, or 12 months even if the mileage isn't racked up.
Another nice video. Learned a lot about motorcycle oil usage. Mom's is always the best to follow, especially if new to owning a bike. Also, looks like a nice day to ride. Ride Safe & God Bless!!
Wow learned more than one thing about oil today thanks. Must admit I really didn't know the difference between regular and synthetic. I use Suzuki 4 cycle racing synthetic 10w40 and the Suzuki OEM filter. I guess I'd like to believe the manufacturer would make products that don't harm the internals. Anyway thanks again for another great video.
Thanks for the video. I am one of THOSE guys that has been running Rotella. I run an '89 goldwing and I think I'm gonna try some 4t oil my next oil change. I know that my last bike shifted better with the Rotella then regular 4t motorcycle oil (that was an 1100cc goldwing) and I just kept the practice with my '89. I didn't even think about it. I'm also gonna look hard at the filter I use. I've just been going to Napa and getting what their computer says. Again, didn't even think about it. So know that your video, really gave me something to ponder, and something to try.
A lot of good info in this one man. I do run Rotella and use K&N filters. Have never had a problem with either but I actually appreciate your points! Especially with the oil filter. I may have a look at some other options...maybe the built in nut is not as impt. as I thought! Lastly, and this is just my humble opinion, this video seemed to ramble a bit, especially in the beginning. I think you could've edited out a lot of parts and had a more succinct video. Maybe even split this into two vlogs. One on cold riding. One on oil. Just my two cents. Again, great topic and great info man. Ride safe.
+SoopaBee Yeah; I think you're right. My vlogs are not generally this long, but they sneak up like this. There's probably nothing WRONG with running the K&N filter or Rotella; I just think there are better options, that's all.
Another really informative video. It was like a online course in engine oils. Great job! I think you are a fantastic researcher of information. I have been researching the "Dark Side" tire debate recently because I am really getting tired of my heavy bike chewing through rear tires. What do you think about a video on that subject? "Darkside Tires= Car Tires"
+NewZona Rides I appreciate the comment! I'm not sure if that's a topic I'll tackle, there are no good, reliable sources of information. There are plenty of anecdotal pieces from riders who have really loved going 'darkside' and others who hated it, but nobody has really studied tire failure rates, accident rates, etc. I'm a facts and numbers kind of guy and if I can't find either, then really, I don't have anything to contribute. Me, personally, I'll stick with motorcycle tires. I am concerned about the sidewall strength of car tires and the way in which they blow out, compared to the way motorcycle tires fail. I'd rather not have either fail, but if I have a blowout, I'd rather it be on a motorcycle tire. Motorcycle tires generally deflate and stay together. Car tires tend, more frequently, to come apart. And this is all because of the design of the sidewall.
+Romans Five|Eight Thanks for your insite. I did a lot of research and I hadn't considered that point. I think I might reconsider my decision to try it.
Nice video. Learned something. Just have my bike and was serviced by a professional few days ago. New oil and tyres, etc. Next time I wanna do the oil change myself.
I just bought a used bike ane enjoyed your vids and will watch more. I have to correct you though on you analsis of engine oil viscosity. Single viscosity and both multiple viscosity will get thicker when going fron hot to cold and will get thinner when going from cold to hot. The difference is a multiply viscosity 10 40 oil will act like a 40w when hot and act like a 10wt when cold. But not actually thinning out when going from hot to cold etc.
Hey john! Nice video again. I'm getting my Yamaha v star back on the road soon. Wondering what you are using for your recording the Video and audio on the helmet. Is that a go pro? What kind of setup for audio recording. ? Thanks !
Purolator sells at least two lines of oil filters, one little better than Fram and one pretty nice (the "Pure One's). The "Pure One's" are well built with lots of high quality synthetic filter media. There is no functional difference between a horizontally mounted oil filter on a car engine and one on a motorcycle. The "Not recommended for use on a motorcycle" came from lawyers, not engineers. Having said that, as long as you stick with good oil and filters and the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals, what you use will not really make much difference in the life of an engine. For those of you who stick with manufacturer recommended supplies because they "meet specs", keep in mind that you are not necessarily getting the best product, only one "good enough".
Correct. Specs are minimum, not the 'best'. But I also dislike "playing chemist" and doing things contrary to the manufacturers recommendation because they think something else is better. For example, some people think running thicker oil in their engine means "better lubrication". When in reality it might be harmful. Running the appropriate grade of oil helps oil flow better into small parts at the top end of the engine, where heavier thicker oil would struggle to reach at cruising RPM's. As to Purolator; as I said in the video, it's no skin off my nose if you want to use them. The warning may have came from lawyers; generally, there's a reason for that. Some liability they are afraid of. But I think it's important to share with people that Purolator specifically state that the Pure One filters are not for use on motorcycles. The "difference" really comes down to oil pressure. With some exceptions of course; most motorcycles tend to put out way more oil pressure at the filter than most cars; sometimes several times as much. Some motorcycles put out 100psi+ at the filter. Motorcycle oil filters tend to be beefier. There have been reports (isolated and rare) of Pure One filters coming apart on motorcycles. But I'm certainly not an oil filter salesman and am not the least bit concerned what oil filter anyone uses except for myself.
Nice video, very informative. I did my second oil change on this bike (Honda CTX 700) a few weeks back. Had a lot of trouble finding oil that matched the specs outlined in my manual. It requires 10w-30, and has the same JASO MA specs you mention. It also states not to use "energy conserving" oil. The problem I ran in to was that ALL the 10-30 oil I saw on the shelf, regular and synthetic had the "energy conserving" label on it. The only oil I could find that matched the spec was factory Honda oil, which is more than a little expensive. I'm in Canada so I may not have access to the same suppliers you have in the U.S., but I would appreciate it if anyone could point me to an alternative 10-30 brand suitable for this motorcycle spec. Cheers.
+djamesthree You're probably going to have to buy a motorcycle specific oil. It's a bit more expensive, but the additive packages in most automotive oils, especially at 10W-30 weight, are harmful for components of your engine. Amsoil, Rotella, Honda, and others make motorcycle specific 10W-30 oil. Good luck!
Ive heard that synthetic oil drastically lowers the engine temp. I have a 1700 "pushrod" Roadstar. (I know you like water cooled bikes) Is this just a myth? I'm going to go (I think) to the synthetics for that reason.......your thoughts on this? (I really like your blogs and value many of your opinions!! Keep em coming!!
+Dan Meredith I'm not sure about drastic, but it will lower engine temp. Synthetic oil has a more uniform molecular structure and so it reduces friction in your engine; reducing heat and reducing wear. The greatest source of heat is the combustion process and synthetic oil won't affect that; but it will reduce friction in the engine helping it to run cooler. Synthetic oil tends to shed heat better, too. So yes, it will probably make a difference.
Hey Bro , Eddie from So.Cal here ..I ride the Roadliner. Question : Is it true your bike gets a little hotter than desired ? I'm not a mechanic. Just have heard this on you tube. I don't see how ... your bike has a radiator. What are these guys talking about ? Other than that I simply Love The Vaquero 👌
Great video and I learned a lot of things such as the difference between motorcycle specific oils and automotive oils, I do use motorcycle specific and now I better understand why. Also I do use K&N filters and that started out of necessity when I couldn't get an old filter off my Vulcan, but after your information I may rethink that! Thanks a bunch for all your info, I love the information. You also did a great job explaining Synthetic vs. Conventional and a great visual that confirms exactly what you said at the molecular level would be this: brakeoramapirelli.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/blog-oilchange-05.jpg One thing I want to clarify which I hear in forums that is wrong a lot of times is that multi-viscosity oils thicken as they heat up, or in other words they think that a 10w-20 motor oil is twice as thick at 212 degrees as it is at 0 degrees, and totally understandable why some people think that and it is hard to explain those numbers thoroughly. Also if that were really true then we would all change our oils at ambient temperature rather a warmed-up temperature, you can see the oil is thinner when hot if you do your own changes. They should change how they rate those numbers because even a lot of educational sites have it wrong when explaining viscosity or thicknesses of oils. That "W" has a different testing than the second number. Sorry to be so long but a few months ago I got very interested when a car I purchased required 0W-20 Synthetic and I had never heard of that weight and was concerned it was too "thin" so started looking more into this subject. And I need to get off this rabbit trail, lol, but this guy's page I think explained it best when I was digging through some info. www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/ and by the way I am NOT this Bob, just found his site a while back. Again thanks for the info!
+ncmcgoverns Thanks! That's a neat graphic! The K&N Filters aren't BAD or anything, just maybe not necessary. With the right tools, and not tightening the filter too much (hand snug is all it takes), it shouldn't be too hard to get filters off.
when looking at the MOM for the vulcan it says to use 10w40 in areas where it gets higher than 104f; is that the actual temperature or with the heat index from the humidity?
+swarm87 Actual temperature. Our bodies cool down using evaporative cooling. We sweat, the sweat evaporates, and we are cooled down. When the humidity is high, our sweat evaporates slower and our bodies have a harder time cooling down. The motorcycle's cooling system is affected by humidity but only slightly and not in any meaningful way. The 104F would be actual air temperature. Keep in mind running a thicker oil will increase the time it takes for the oil to reach the top end of the engine and reduce overall protection. Simply getting up to 104F, once in a while, on occasion, does not justify using the thicker oil. Though if you have issues with overheating (coolant temp light illuminating); it can make sense to use a thicker oil. In my personal opinion, stick with the recommended weight unless you have issues that force you to go thicker. On the VN1700 Vaquero, 10W-40 is the "recommended" weight and 20W-50 is listed for hot climates. In the context of the manual, "hot climates" would be areas such as death valley or the Sahara. Areas that are consistently hot. Not areas that sometimes get that hot for a couple of hours during the day.
I enjoy weather in the 50's but I ride a big v-twin with hard lowers and dressed to the 9's so the engine heat and heated seats and grips make it nice I love stretching out the riding season an extra 2-3 months as well. Cant do that on a sportbike!!! HAAA I never put my bikes away I just walk out to the garage and start em up and let em run for 10 minutes once or twice a week. I just follow the manual recommendations no reason to make the oil thing harder than it is.
+theonetheycall Paul Easy enough! Although, you're actually probably not doing your mike any favors by starting it up for 10 minutes. You're better off just using a good fuel stabilizer, plugging it in to a battery tender and leaving it alone unless you're gonna ride it. Letting it idle will just invite condensation and combustion byproducts once the engine cools back down; especially so when it isn't actually ridden and is just idled.
Hey Jon, got another question for you. I have been looking around like crazy trying to find any place that carries amsoil oil filters! Since we both love around the same area, I was curious if you know of or could recommend a place for me to pick some up? Me and my Vaquero thank you in advance!
+Scott Finn Hi Scott. I buy mine from a dealer who drop-ships it to me. Where do you live Scott? The Dealer I use is named Robert Schulz (he goes by Bob) and his e-mail is office@bestoil4you.com. He'll be the best price you can find and he'll just ship it to your door. I generally buy by the case to save a little extra.
Hey Roman, I live in Wentzville... Do you think that he could ship to me? I was just having such a hard time finding those ams filters... Thanks again man, I owe you one!
thank you for your info it was very informative. i had no odea my first bike was a cruiser. now i have a sportbike and everything is different. check out both of my bikes on my page.
+Justin Archuleta Hi Justin. Anything motorcycle specific is good. Amsoil, Mobil 1, Valvoline, and others make a motorcycle specific full synthetic. Personally, I use Amsoil.
Mobile 1 Full Synthetic because its reasonably priced. I have looked at scientific data and it seems Mobile 1 hangs in there at the top. My local riding season is year round in GA. I do not change oil just for winter. I change my oil every 3k miles even though I use synthetic. I also run what is recommended per my "mom" lol
+Ted Smith I'm not a fan of the diesel oil. It has the wet clutch rating; but as I mentioned; that's a bare minimum recommendation that only means the clutch won't be ruined; it doesn't mean the bike is protected. Especially on these overhead cam metrics; an oil formulated for a slow-revving Diesel engine is not going to provide protection to a fast revving overhead cam bike.
+Ted Smith The best way to determine oil drain intervals is to send oil in to a lab, like Blackstone labs, for analysis. Barring that, being a bit more on the conservative side is certainly the way to go! Keep your machine running for a long time!
+saskcop Right and that's actually the point I was making, it shouldn't be difficult to remove a hot filter; if it IS difficult, it was probably installed too tightly. Oil filters should be hand-snug and no tighter when installed. An oil filter wrench that goes on the end of a socket is very useful as well.
Quick Questions on your Oil comment re: "Breaks down over Time".... 1st) Have you ever purchased a container with a USE BY DATE on it? 2nd) How old is oil?.... Hint... it has been in the ground a LONG time so three months in your vehicle and it breaks down? Sorry, but I'm kind of messing with you here cause I have this debate regularly. Oil gets contaminated or dirty. I own and operate a Commercial Truck and have for over 25 yrs. I personally change my oil (Rotella T6 Synthetic) once every 18-24 months in my truck. I run an Eco-Pure (by OPS) oil system on that vehicle, which keeps the oil clean according to Laboratory Analysis. Changing the Factory filters every 6 months and the OPS filter every 25k miles. (I am actually currently changing my oil prematurely, LOL) I know people who have over 600,000 miles without ever changing their oil in a diesel truck. Granted those vehicles consume some oil in the combustion process and with regular filter changes there is ample opportunity to refresh the additive package which is a critical component in all bottled products by way of make up oil. I could go on but I am a bit off topic here so as for my 2016 Voyager, which I pick up in a couple of weeks, I plan to switch it to Castrol 20w50 at the first opportunity as that is what I have always run in my bikes. I expect I may investigate a Synthetic option in time as well for my new bike but we'll see! I enjoy your views and keep up the good work!
Diesel Locomotives rarely change oil. They just change filters and replace additives. Turbine jet engines too! Nonetheless, we shouldn't emulate big-rig practices on our bikes. We don't have the sophisticated long-service oil systems that a big rig does. I know you know that, but for the benefit of other readers. So, I probably should've clarified better; but, the key difference here is combustion byproducts. Once the oil has been exposed to the byproducts of combustion there's a chemical reaction taking place that, over time, can potentially affect the performance of the engine oil. It's not a 100% guarantee, but it's a good rule of thumb to change the oil every year even if you don't accumulate enough miles. That's why manufacturers of engine oil and the manual for your motorcycle all have some sort of 'date' along with the mileage (setting aside the arbitrary 3 month / 3,000 mile perpetuated by quick-change places. They just want to sell more oil). On the shelf the oil will last as long as the container lasts. And it's been in the ground for millions of years. But once you start throwing those combustion byproducts in there, everything changes. If you really wanted to, you could get your oil checked through places like Blackstone labs. However, I don't generally recommend that for motorcyclists, for a couple of reasons. First and foremost is cost. The cost of having your oil lab tested is almost as much as an oil change; so best to just change it. Second, is variability. Maybe you do a few used oil analysis and find that things didn't fall out of range until 17,000 miles. So from then on you do 17,000 mile oil changes. But ESPECIALLY on small motorcycle oil systems without much oil in them (3, 4 or 5 quarts; compared to the gallons on your HDT!), things can vary a lot. Maybe the oil breaks down at mile 11,000, and so you ride for 6,000 miles on oil that isn't protecting your motorcycle. Once oil is out of grade, you've gone PAST when it should be changed. Oil that comes out of an engine should still be "good" oil. My personal practice is every 5,000 miles which is an extremely conservative oil change schedule. But its not very expensive and it's good piece of mind. Lots of HDT truck guys, and you may do this too, will do this and not change their oil until the folks at Blackstone Labs (or wherever) tell them to. A $28 UOA is a lot more affordable when the cost of an oil change is several hundred bucks! Likewise, on Locomotive prime movers which can hold 300+ gallons of oil, it's FAR cheaper to just do regular oil analysis and replace the filters (lots of them! And they can be replaced while the engine is running!) and replace whatever additives are needed to keep it in good shape. I don't even want to think about a 300 gallon oil change! Thanks for the comment!
Romans - I want to thank you for being a moto vlogger that isn't vulgar. It is greatly appreciated. Looking forward to more vlogs from you.
+David Homoney I appreciate that! I have plenty to say already; no need for filler words.
I use Mobil 1 20w50 in my Sportster. Mobil 1 is a true group IV oil unlike most other synthetics that are group III. Thanks for the video. Always enjoy them.
Thanks for the lesson, my bike requires full synthetic oil so that what I use. If the manual says it I use it! I also change the oil at the end of the riding season and also have a complete inspection done as well. Better safe and knowing than to pretend nothing is wrong.
Good topic.
+Krazy Kool NYer Yep. I'm a big proponent of maintenance. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
Super good info. I heard an auto mechanic on the radio talk about the old folks who live in Sun City and they put very few miles on their car each year. So they might think to do an oil change say every 2 years. He said don't do that. Many motorcycles are ridden 2,000 to 4,000 miles a year, as we know. I might ride about 3,000 miles a year. I change my oil 2 times a year. Just speaking for myself. Enjoy. PS, if and when you add antifreeze to your bike, do not use the kind that has some additives that can damage your water pump and/or the seals. Read your manual on that !!!!!!!
+dks13827 Absolutely. As with any fluids, one should check the manual. I will be flushing the cooling system this year (regular maintenance) and will be using a type safe for aluminum motorcycle engines.
And yes, oil breaks down over time even without use. Depending on the brand and quality of the oil, it should be changed after 3, 6, or 12 months even if the mileage isn't racked up.
Another nice video. Learned a lot about motorcycle oil usage. Mom's is always the best to follow, especially if new to owning a bike. Also, looks like a nice day to ride. Ride Safe & God Bless!!
+Paul Michaels Thanks Paul! Blessings!
Wow learned more than one thing about oil today thanks. Must admit I really didn't know the difference between regular and synthetic. I use Suzuki 4 cycle racing synthetic 10w40 and the Suzuki OEM filter. I guess I'd like to believe the manufacturer would make products that don't harm the internals. Anyway thanks again for another great video.
+MotorMichaelMan Much of it is a myth for sure. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the video. I am one of THOSE guys that has been running Rotella. I run an '89 goldwing and I think I'm gonna try some 4t oil my next oil change. I know that my last bike shifted better with the Rotella then regular 4t motorcycle oil (that was an 1100cc goldwing) and I just kept the practice with my '89. I didn't even think about it. I'm also gonna look hard at the filter I use. I've just been going to Napa and getting what their computer says. Again, didn't even think about it. So know that your video, really gave me something to ponder, and something to try.
+Urban Madness Awesome! It's no skin off my nose; but I prefer to use a motorcycle specific oil and filter.
Exactly the info I was looking for, thanks for posting this one.
+Jesse Smyser Thanks Jesse!
A lot of good info in this one man. I do run Rotella and use K&N filters. Have never had a problem with either but I actually appreciate your points! Especially with the oil filter. I may have a look at some other options...maybe the built in nut is not as impt. as I thought! Lastly, and this is just my humble opinion, this video seemed to ramble a bit, especially in the beginning. I think you could've edited out a lot of parts and had a more succinct video. Maybe even split this into two vlogs. One on cold riding. One on oil. Just my two cents. Again, great topic and great info man. Ride safe.
+SoopaBee Yeah; I think you're right. My vlogs are not generally this long, but they sneak up like this.
There's probably nothing WRONG with running the K&N filter or Rotella; I just think there are better options, that's all.
Another really informative video. It was like a online course in engine oils. Great job! I think you are a fantastic researcher of information. I have been researching the "Dark Side" tire debate recently because I am really getting tired of my heavy bike chewing through rear tires. What do you think about a video on that subject? "Darkside Tires= Car Tires"
+NewZona Rides I appreciate the comment! I'm not sure if that's a topic I'll tackle, there are no good, reliable sources of information. There are plenty of anecdotal pieces from riders who have really loved going 'darkside' and others who hated it, but nobody has really studied tire failure rates, accident rates, etc. I'm a facts and numbers kind of guy and if I can't find either, then really, I don't have anything to contribute.
Me, personally, I'll stick with motorcycle tires. I am concerned about the sidewall strength of car tires and the way in which they blow out, compared to the way motorcycle tires fail. I'd rather not have either fail, but if I have a blowout, I'd rather it be on a motorcycle tire. Motorcycle tires generally deflate and stay together. Car tires tend, more frequently, to come apart. And this is all because of the design of the sidewall.
+Romans Five|Eight Thanks for your insite. I did a lot of research and I hadn't considered that point. I think I might reconsider my decision to try it.
Nice video. Learned something. Just have my bike and was serviced by a professional few days ago. New oil and tyres, etc. Next time I wanna do the oil change myself.
+MrMarcie It's easier than you think! I do my own maintenance and enjoy doing it.
I just bought a used bike ane enjoyed your vids and will watch more. I have to correct you though on you analsis of engine oil viscosity. Single viscosity and both multiple viscosity will get thicker when going fron hot to cold and will get thinner when going from cold to hot. The difference is a multiply viscosity 10 40 oil will act like a 40w when hot and act like a 10wt when cold. But not actually thinning out when going from hot to cold etc.
wow! I just got some great info for my metric cruiser. Thanks!
+Scott Hausam Glad I could provide something useful!
Excellent video. Great explanations.
+saskcop Thanks!
Man, I took my new bike in for its first service this morning and It was 36 F. I personally use 10w40 Amsoil in my bikes.
+vac0002 Yikes! Still plenty warm here.
Hey john! Nice video again. I'm getting my Yamaha v star back on the road soon. Wondering what you are using for your recording the Video and audio on the helmet. Is that a go pro? What kind of setup for audio recording. ? Thanks !
+Joel B I use a Sena 20S for audio and a Sena Prism for video.
Purolator sells at least two lines of oil filters, one little better than Fram and one pretty nice (the "Pure One's). The "Pure One's" are well built with lots of high quality synthetic filter media.
There is no functional difference between a horizontally mounted oil filter on a car engine and one on a motorcycle. The "Not recommended for use on a motorcycle" came from lawyers, not engineers.
Having said that, as long as you stick with good oil and filters and the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals, what you use will not really make much difference in the life of an engine.
For those of you who stick with manufacturer recommended supplies because they "meet specs", keep in mind that you are not necessarily getting the best product, only one "good enough".
Correct. Specs are minimum, not the 'best'. But I also dislike "playing chemist" and doing things contrary to the manufacturers recommendation because they think something else is better. For example, some people think running thicker oil in their engine means "better lubrication". When in reality it might be harmful. Running the appropriate grade of oil helps oil flow better into small parts at the top end of the engine, where heavier thicker oil would struggle to reach at cruising RPM's.
As to Purolator; as I said in the video, it's no skin off my nose if you want to use them. The warning may have came from lawyers; generally, there's a reason for that. Some liability they are afraid of. But I think it's important to share with people that Purolator specifically state that the Pure One filters are not for use on motorcycles.
The "difference" really comes down to oil pressure. With some exceptions of course; most motorcycles tend to put out way more oil pressure at the filter than most cars; sometimes several times as much. Some motorcycles put out 100psi+ at the filter. Motorcycle oil filters tend to be beefier. There have been reports (isolated and rare) of Pure One filters coming apart on motorcycles. But I'm certainly not an oil filter salesman and am not the least bit concerned what oil filter anyone uses except for myself.
It made the bike less stressed at higher RPM. Its pricey but it work
excellent and informative video, thank you.
+Skottrik dego Thank you!
Nice video, very informative. I did my second oil change on this bike (Honda CTX 700) a few weeks back. Had a lot of trouble finding oil that matched the specs outlined in my manual. It requires 10w-30, and has the same JASO MA specs you mention. It also states not to use "energy conserving" oil. The problem I ran in to was that ALL the 10-30 oil I saw on the shelf, regular and synthetic had the "energy conserving" label on it. The only oil I could find that matched the spec was factory Honda oil, which is more than a little expensive. I'm in Canada so I may not have access to the same suppliers you have in the U.S., but I would appreciate it if anyone could point me to an alternative 10-30 brand suitable for this motorcycle spec. Cheers.
+djamesthree You're probably going to have to buy a motorcycle specific oil. It's a bit more expensive, but the additive packages in most automotive oils, especially at 10W-30 weight, are harmful for components of your engine. Amsoil, Rotella, Honda, and others make motorcycle specific 10W-30 oil. Good luck!
Ive heard that synthetic oil drastically lowers the engine temp. I have a 1700 "pushrod" Roadstar. (I know you like water cooled bikes) Is this just a myth? I'm going to go (I think) to the synthetics for that reason.......your thoughts on this? (I really like your blogs and value many of your opinions!! Keep em coming!!
+Dan Meredith I'm not sure about drastic, but it will lower engine temp. Synthetic oil has a more uniform molecular structure and so it reduces friction in your engine; reducing heat and reducing wear. The greatest source of heat is the combustion process and synthetic oil won't affect that; but it will reduce friction in the engine helping it to run cooler. Synthetic oil tends to shed heat better, too. So yes, it will probably make a difference.
I only use Amsoil in everything I own. Never an issue and always better gas mileage.
+weee06B It's worked well for me.
Hey Bro , Eddie from So.Cal here ..I ride the Roadliner.
Question : Is it true your bike gets a little hotter than desired ? I'm not a mechanic. Just have heard this on you tube. I don't see how ... your bike has a radiator. What are these guys talking about ? Other than that I simply Love The Vaquero 👌
In low speeds or in traffic, it does get pretty warm. But it doesn't bother me; and I don't spend a lot of time at low speeds.
I just use the oil recommended in the owners manual. V900C
+David Rice Awesome!
Great video and I learned a lot of things such as the difference between motorcycle specific oils and automotive oils, I do use motorcycle specific and now I better understand why. Also I do use K&N filters and that started out of necessity when I couldn't get an old filter off my Vulcan, but after your information I may rethink that! Thanks a bunch for all your info, I love the information. You also did a great job explaining Synthetic vs. Conventional and a great visual that confirms exactly what you said at the molecular level would be this: brakeoramapirelli.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/blog-oilchange-05.jpg
One thing I want to clarify which I hear in forums that is wrong a lot of times is that multi-viscosity oils thicken as they heat up, or in other words they think that a 10w-20 motor oil is twice as thick at 212 degrees as it is at 0 degrees, and totally understandable why some people think that and it is hard to explain those numbers thoroughly. Also if that were really true then we would all change our oils at ambient temperature rather a warmed-up temperature, you can see the oil is thinner when hot if you do your own changes. They should change how they rate those numbers because even a lot of educational sites have it wrong when explaining viscosity or thicknesses of oils. That "W" has a different testing than the second number. Sorry to be so long but a few months ago I got very interested when a car I purchased required 0W-20 Synthetic and I had never heard of that weight and was concerned it was too "thin" so started looking more into this subject. And I need to get off this rabbit trail, lol, but this guy's page I think explained it best when I was digging through some info. www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/ and by the way I am NOT this Bob, just found his site a while back.
Again thanks for the info!
+ncmcgoverns Thanks! That's a neat graphic!
The K&N Filters aren't BAD or anything, just maybe not necessary. With the right tools, and not tightening the filter too much (hand snug is all it takes), it shouldn't be too hard to get filters off.
75F in January? We don't get much more than that here in middle of the summer. That is practically T-shirt riding weather...
+pusapoiss It happens, once in a while. But usually, January is in the 30's and 40's.
when looking at the MOM for the vulcan it says to use 10w40 in areas where it gets higher than 104f; is that the actual temperature or with the heat index from the humidity?
+swarm87 Actual temperature. Our bodies cool down using evaporative cooling. We sweat, the sweat evaporates, and we are cooled down. When the humidity is high, our sweat evaporates slower and our bodies have a harder time cooling down. The motorcycle's cooling system is affected by humidity but only slightly and not in any meaningful way. The 104F would be actual air temperature.
Keep in mind running a thicker oil will increase the time it takes for the oil to reach the top end of the engine and reduce overall protection. Simply getting up to 104F, once in a while, on occasion, does not justify using the thicker oil. Though if you have issues with overheating (coolant temp light illuminating); it can make sense to use a thicker oil. In my personal opinion, stick with the recommended weight unless you have issues that force you to go thicker. On the VN1700 Vaquero, 10W-40 is the "recommended" weight and 20W-50 is listed for hot climates. In the context of the manual, "hot climates" would be areas such as death valley or the Sahara. Areas that are consistently hot. Not areas that sometimes get that hot for a couple of hours during the day.
I enjoy weather in the 50's but I ride a big v-twin with hard lowers and dressed to the 9's so the engine heat and heated seats and grips make it nice I love stretching out the riding season an extra 2-3 months as well. Cant do that on a sportbike!!! HAAA I never put my bikes away I just walk out to the garage and start em up and let em run for 10 minutes once or twice a week. I just follow the manual recommendations no reason to make the oil thing harder than it is.
+theonetheycall Paul Easy enough! Although, you're actually probably not doing your mike any favors by starting it up for 10 minutes. You're better off just using a good fuel stabilizer, plugging it in to a battery tender and leaving it alone unless you're gonna ride it. Letting it idle will just invite condensation and combustion byproducts once the engine cools back down; especially so when it isn't actually ridden and is just idled.
great video my friend
Hey Jon, got another question for you. I have been looking around like crazy trying to find any place that carries amsoil oil filters! Since we both love around the same area, I was curious if you know of or could recommend a place for me to pick some up? Me and my Vaquero thank you in advance!
+Scott Finn Hi Scott. I buy mine from a dealer who drop-ships it to me. Where do you live Scott?
The Dealer I use is named Robert Schulz (he goes by Bob) and his e-mail is office@bestoil4you.com. He'll be the best price you can find and he'll just ship it to your door. I generally buy by the case to save a little extra.
Hey Roman, I live in Wentzville... Do you think that he could ship to me? I was just having such a hard time finding those ams filters... Thanks again man, I owe you one!
thank you for your info it was very informative. i had no odea my first bike was a cruiser. now i have a sportbike and everything is different. check out both of my bikes on my page.
hi I have a Vulcan 900 2008 and I want to use synthetic oil on it what brand and w should I use?
+Justin Archuleta Hi Justin. Anything motorcycle specific is good. Amsoil, Mobil 1, Valvoline, and others make a motorcycle specific full synthetic. Personally, I use Amsoil.
Mobile 1 Full Synthetic because its reasonably priced. I have looked at scientific data and it seems Mobile 1 hangs in there at the top. My local riding season is year round in GA. I do not change oil just for winter. I change my oil every 3k miles even though I use synthetic. I also run what is recommended per my "mom" lol
+Ted Smith BTW, there are some out there stating you can use diesel oil in your bike....I wouldn't do that.
+Ted Smith I'm not a fan of the diesel oil. It has the wet clutch rating; but as I mentioned; that's a bare minimum recommendation that only means the clutch won't be ruined; it doesn't mean the bike is protected. Especially on these overhead cam metrics; an oil formulated for a slow-revving Diesel engine is not going to provide protection to a fast revving overhead cam bike.
+Ted Smith The best way to determine oil drain intervals is to send oil in to a lab, like Blackstone labs, for analysis. Barring that, being a bit more on the conservative side is certainly the way to go! Keep your machine running for a long time!
10w-40 on my shadow in FL.
+TechFan Glad you found something that works!
One thing, the nut on the filter is not so important for tightening, but for loosening a hot filter. Amsoil gets my vote too by the way.
+saskcop Right and that's actually the point I was making, it shouldn't be difficult to remove a hot filter; if it IS difficult, it was probably installed too tightly. Oil filters should be hand-snug and no tighter when installed. An oil filter wrench that goes on the end of a socket is very useful as well.
Romans 8:28
Royal purple
+George Farah Glad it works for you!
Quick Questions on your Oil comment re: "Breaks down over Time"....
1st) Have you ever purchased a container with a USE BY DATE on it?
2nd) How old is oil?.... Hint... it has been in the ground a LONG time
so three months in your vehicle and it breaks down?
Sorry, but I'm kind of messing with you here cause I have this debate regularly.
Oil gets contaminated or dirty. I own and operate a Commercial Truck and have for over 25 yrs. I personally change my oil (Rotella T6 Synthetic) once every 18-24 months in my truck. I run an Eco-Pure (by OPS) oil system on that vehicle, which keeps the oil clean according to Laboratory Analysis. Changing the Factory filters every 6 months and the OPS filter every 25k miles. (I am actually currently changing my oil prematurely, LOL) I know people who have over 600,000 miles without ever changing their oil in a diesel truck. Granted those vehicles consume some oil in the combustion process and with regular filter changes there is ample opportunity to refresh the additive package which is a critical component in all bottled products by way of make up oil.
I could go on but I am a bit off topic here so as for my 2016 Voyager, which I pick up in a couple of weeks, I plan to switch it to Castrol 20w50 at the first opportunity as that is what I have always run in my bikes. I expect I may investigate a Synthetic option in time as well for my new bike but we'll see!
I enjoy your views and keep up the good work!
Diesel Locomotives rarely change oil. They just change filters and replace additives. Turbine jet engines too! Nonetheless, we shouldn't emulate big-rig practices on our bikes. We don't have the sophisticated long-service oil systems that a big rig does. I know you know that, but for the benefit of other readers.
So, I probably should've clarified better; but, the key difference here is combustion byproducts. Once the oil has been exposed to the byproducts of combustion there's a chemical reaction taking place that, over time, can potentially affect the performance of the engine oil. It's not a 100% guarantee, but it's a good rule of thumb to change the oil every year even if you don't accumulate enough miles. That's why manufacturers of engine oil and the manual for your motorcycle all have some sort of 'date' along with the mileage (setting aside the arbitrary 3 month / 3,000 mile perpetuated by quick-change places. They just want to sell more oil). On the shelf the oil will last as long as the container lasts. And it's been in the ground for millions of years. But once you start throwing those combustion byproducts in there, everything changes.
If you really wanted to, you could get your oil checked through places like Blackstone labs. However, I don't generally recommend that for motorcyclists, for a couple of reasons. First and foremost is cost. The cost of having your oil lab tested is almost as much as an oil change; so best to just change it. Second, is variability. Maybe you do a few used oil analysis and find that things didn't fall out of range until 17,000 miles. So from then on you do 17,000 mile oil changes. But ESPECIALLY on small motorcycle oil systems without much oil in them (3, 4 or 5 quarts; compared to the gallons on your HDT!), things can vary a lot. Maybe the oil breaks down at mile 11,000, and so you ride for 6,000 miles on oil that isn't protecting your motorcycle. Once oil is out of grade, you've gone PAST when it should be changed. Oil that comes out of an engine should still be "good" oil. My personal practice is every 5,000 miles which is an extremely conservative oil change schedule. But its not very expensive and it's good piece of mind.
Lots of HDT truck guys, and you may do this too, will do this and not change their oil until the folks at Blackstone Labs (or wherever) tell them to. A $28 UOA is a lot more affordable when the cost of an oil change is several hundred bucks! Likewise, on Locomotive prime movers which can hold 300+ gallons of oil, it's FAR cheaper to just do regular oil analysis and replace the filters (lots of them! And they can be replaced while the engine is running!) and replace whatever additives are needed to keep it in good shape. I don't even want to think about a 300 gallon oil change!
Thanks for the comment!